KimonosSarah LawlerTH5441 Period Styles4/9/15

Meiji Period: 1868-1912• The feudal era is over. • The nobility held lands from the Crown in exchange for military service, and vassals were in

turn tenants of the nobles, while the peasants were obliged to live on their lord's land and give him homage, labor, and a share of the produce, notionally in exchange for military protection.

• The capital moved from Kyoto to Tokyo.• The abolition of feudalism made possible tremendous social and political changes. Millions of

people were suddenly free to choose their occupation and move about without restrictions. By providing a new environment of political and financial security, the government made possible investment in new industries and technologies.

• Western influences start to play a role in fashion.• Yukatas

Meaning

• Kimono = Thing to wear

• Both men and women, young and old wore a kimono/yukata. The color and motif played a large role in relationship to age, gender, and season.

• Yukata = literally means bath(ing) clothes, although their use is not limited to after-bath wear. Yukata are a common sight in Japan during the hot summer months.

Symbolism• The images used on kimono often have complex levels of meaning, and many have specific auspicious significance

which derives from religious or popular beliefs.• The crane for example, is one of the most popular birds depicted on kimono. Believed to live for a thousand years and to inhabit the

land of the immortals it is a symbol of longevity and good fortune.

• Natural motifs• The natural world provides the richest source for kimono motifs. Numerous flowers such as peonies, wisteria, bush clover and

hollyhocks appear on garments. Many of them, for example cherry blossom, chrysanthemums and maple leaves, have a seasonal significance.

• Pine, bamboo and plum are known collectively as the Three Friends of Winter (shōchikubai), and are symbols of longevity, perseverance and renewal. The pine tree is an evergreen and lives for many years, bamboo bends in the wind but never breaks, and the plum is the first tree to blossom each year. The plum is particularly favoured for winter kimono, for its use suggests that spring cannot be far away.

• Birds, animals, butterflies and dragonflies also appear on kimono, along with other motifs drawn from the natural world such as water, snow and clouds. On some kimono whole landscapes of mountains and streams are depicted. The numerous different ways in which such popular natural motifs are used on garments is testament to the skill of kimono designers, and of dyers and embroiderers

• Poems & stories• Elements of the natural world that appear on kimono usually have strong poetic associations, while more complex landscape scenes

often refer to particular stories drawn either from classical literature or popular myths. While carrying an auspicious meaning, they also serve to demonstrate the literary discernment and cultural sensitivities of the wearer. Although such stories invariably involved people, it is relatively unusual to find human figures depicted on kimono. Instead there are objects which suggest their presence or recent departure, a pair of dropped fans, for example, alluding to lovers disturbed.

• From the early 20th century increasingly graphic imagery was used on kimono. On garments for young boys in particular, symbols of Japan's modern and progressive present - cars, trains, aeroplanes and skyscrapers - became as popular as stories of the past. In the 1930s such motifs became increasingly nationalistic and militaristic.

Colors• January Pine: sprout green and deep purple

• February: Redblossom plum: crimson and purple

• March Peach: peach and khaki

• April Cherry: white and burgundy

• May Orange Flower: deadleaf yellow and purple

• June Artemesia: sprout green and yellow

• July Lily: red and deadleaf yellow

• August Cicada wing: cedar bark and sky blue

• September Aster: lavender and burgundy

• October Bush Clover: rose and slate blue

• November Maple: vermilion and grey-green

• December Chrysanthemum: lavender and deep blue

• Kimono fabric is expensive

• The list to the right is based on an example of proper Japanese etiquette from a traditional school.

• Since kimonos are so expensive Geisha primarily follow the tradition of following the color changes with the months.

Informal Kimono Breakdown • Informal Kimono/Yukata

• Kimono/Yukata

• Kimono Slip

• 3 Koshihimo – soft ties

• Datejime – Belt

• Obiita – stiffner

• Obi – sash

• Two towels – to flatten the waist

• How to wear a Kimono• Part 1 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kCZtGi21ysM

• Part 2 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sEGSemM222g

Meisen Silk • New technology led to different ways to make

silk.

• Ikat (Not an app) • Fabricated by weaving pre-dyed threads, utilizing the tie-and-resist

• In this process, the threads, silk or cotton, are first stretched on a frame. Selected design areas are tightly bound to prevent the dye from penetrating and the hanks of threads are immersed in the dye pots. The bound portions of the yarns resist the dye and when woven, as a result of the threads not being perfectly aligned, create shapes with charmingly uneven edges.

• Meisen silk was a popular fabric for casual kimono from 1920 to 1950, in part because it was more affordable, and in part because the designs, frequently drawing on Western influences, seemed adventurous and innovative

• Meisen kimono was worn as casual everyday wear--as girl's school uniforms (often worn as an ensemble with matching jackets called haori), and as work uniforms

• How to make a Kimono

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qEDWKQgIdiU

Bibliography • Web. 9 Apr. 2015. <http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1800&context=tsaconf>.

• "Kimono." Japanese Culture. Web. 9 Apr. 2015. <http://www.japan-zone.com/culture/kimono.shtml>.

• Merriam-Webster. Merriam-Webster. Web. 9 Apr. 2015. <http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/feudalism>.

• "The Meiji Restoration and Modernization | Asia for Educators | Columbia University." The Meiji Restoration and Modernization | Asia for Educators | Columbia University. Web. 9 Apr. 2015. <http://afe.easia.columbia.edu/special/japan_1750_meiji.htm>.

• "Kimono: Decoration, Symbols & Motifs." Victoria and Albert Museum, Online Museum, Web Team, Webmaster@vam.ac.uk. Web. 9 Apr. 2015. <http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/k/kimono-decoration-symbols-motifs/>.

• Web. 9 Apr. 2015. <http://www.yamakawadojo.com/Japanese Traditional Colors.pdf>.

• "10 Different Types of Kimono for Women | Tsunagu Japan." Tsunagu Japan. 6 July 2014. Web. 9 Apr. 2015. <https://www.tsunagujapan.com/10-different-types-of-kimono-for-women/>.

• "Hanami: Types of Kimono - Tomesode." Hanami: Types of Kimono - Tomesode. Web. 9 Apr. 2015. <http://maihanami.blogspot.it/2013/01/types-of-kimono-02.html>.

Different Types of Kimonos for women

• Furisode (pronoun foo ri sody without any syllables) is worn by unmarried women. Basically, furisode means swinging sleeves due to long sleeves that fall into 39 to 42 inches. They are decorated with color pattern that cover fully the whole garment. The longer the sleeve is, the more formal it is. It is the most formal clothes for unmarried women to wear in special occasions including coming of age ceremony, voting, wedding ceremony (unmarried female relative from the bride’s family) and tea ceremony.

Different Types of Kimonos for women cont.

• Komon (literally small pattern) are worn by married and unmarried women. They have a pattern covering the entire kimono but with no particular direction or layout. Komon are the most informal silk kimono.

Different Types of Kimonos for women cont.• Tomesode (literally

fastened sleeve) are the most formal kimono worn by married women. They always have crests, and the patterns, which may incorporate gold and silver, are only below the waist.There are two kinds of tomesode kuro (black) and iro (coloured); kuro tomesode are the most formal, and always have five crests. They may be worn by guests at formal events like weddings. Iro tomesode can have any base color other than black, and may have one, three, or five crests.

Different Types of Kimonos for women cont.

• Susohiki/Hikizuri - Worn by geisha or stage performers of traditional Japanese dance. In comparison to a regular kimono, these are much longer and trail the floor

Different Types of Kimonos for women cont.• Odori Katamigawari

means dance, so this is a traditional Japanese dancer’s kimono. Katamigawari means half and half, referring to this kimono being half one design and half another, which is more likely to be seen on an odori kimono than any other. Many odori kimonos are tsukesage, houmongi or komon in style. They are often in synthetic textiles, so they can, unlike silk, be washed regularly and they are most frequently unlined or just lower lined, to keep the dancer cooler

Different Types of Kimonos for women cont.

• Iromuji (literally plain colour) are unpatterned kimonos in a single-colored kimono worn by both married and unmarried women. They are most appropriate for tea ceremonies. The formality is determined by the absence or presence and number of crest

Different Types of Kimonos for women cont.

• Mofuku is the mourning dress worn by both male and female. They wear a complete plain back silk with five crests over white undergarments and white tabi. As for women, obi and other accessories are also black. The completely black mourning clothes is for family and those who are close to the deceased.

Different Types of Kimonos for women cont.

• A houmongi, sometimes spelled homongi, often has a pattern around the hem and sleeve and sometimes up over the body of the kimono. On houmongi, the pattern joins up at over the seams. Houmongi means visiting dress and they are less formal than tomesode but more formal than tsukesage or komon kimonos.

Different Types of Kimonos for women cont.

• Uchikake - A very formal kimono only worn by brides or at a stage performance. It is usually all white or very colorful with red as a base color. It is to be worn outside of the actual kimono and is never tied with an obi.