technical data sheet cocoa brown clay - activebox.it · methdology: farmacopéia brasileira 4ª...

Rua Donato Pereira, 93 – Fazenda 88306-220 – Itajaí – SC +55 (47) 3344-0029 terramater.ind.br Date: 05/2017

Technical Data Sheet

Cocoa Brown Clay

1. CLAY MINERAL ACTIVE INGREDIENTS Clay mineral is a natural raw material of mineral origin, composed of extremely fine particles of silicates, as well as several microminerals. This Mineral Active Ingredient can contain different type of silicate and metal concentrations such as: Titanium, Magnesium, Copper, Zinc, Aluminum, Calcium, Potassium, Nickel, Manganese, Lithium, Sodium and Iron. The clay minerals had their origin from sedimentary rocks that over years (in the scale of a millennia) and under the climatic processes, dissolve themselves. (Imagine a mountain dissolving in a valley, reaching a river or a lake). During this course, the clay collects metals and components from the land where it belongs, it is action from the waters experiences and of the organic compositions from each micro region, forming the mineral product which is known as clay. Parallel to the process of the composition of the clay, a separation happens between the clay and the quartz, and eventually, it results in a purified and fine material selected by nature. This way, it is possible to appreciate that each clay is unique, it is a result of the exclusive composition of the earth, water and the climatic process that occur in a specific area. The line known as TERSIL (Tersil, White Clay, Kaolin and Cocoa Brown Clay) was developed by the TERRAMATER Special Mineral and Organic Ingredients. Various kind of clays were selected at appropriate places for mining in a European Valley in south Brazil, Santa Catarina and also in a calcareous area of Tijucas do Sul, Paraná - Brazil. The line named TERSIL is composed of twelve different Brazilian clay minerals, presenting different granulometric profiles, especially developed for different cosmetic applications, from exfoliating to make-up actives. The products were prepared specially for the cosmetic industry and Spa’s. They can be used pure or applied in different cosmetic formulations.


2. COMPOSITION Chemical Analysis

% SiO2 60,00

% Fe2O3 7,25 % CaO 0,02

% P2O5 0,10

% Al2O3 20,00 % Na2O 0,12

% TiO2 0,70

% MgO 0,75 % K2O 4,50

2.1 Mineral and Microminerals The microminerals are cofactors of many biochemical reactions in our organism and the presence of some microminerals are essential for good metabolic operation. Cocoa Brown Clay has naturally copper, selenium, magnesium, zinc and manganese that help the skin nutrition and in maintain the skin healthy. 2.2 Metals research The clays originate from sedimentary rocks, this way, the presence of metals in loamy materials are natural. Some metals search as copper, zinc and selenium are important for the maintenance of the skin integrity; however the presence of some heavy metals such as lead can put the health at risk if it is absorbed. Several kinds of clays were researched and some of them were rejected because the f high concentration of lead in its composition. All of the products which are traded by TERRAMATER Mineral and Organic Ingredients, present the amount of heavy metals under control, in relation to the pattern established for the cosmetic industry.

3. PRODUCTION PROCESS TERRAMATER processes the line named TERSIL in an industry built exclusively for this activity, assisting the Good Practices of Production of Mineral and Organic active ingredients for the cosmetic industry: a) Extraction in appropriate places that are under control of DNPM (National Department of Mineral Production). b) Drying in the sun to remove the natural humidity. c) Grinding process without human contact. d) Special decontamination process. ECOCERT and COSMOS approved. Microbial control is accomplished without the use of gamma radiation, chemical agents or any process that can generate waste compounds. The decontamination technology used is based on the application of controlled pulses of dry heat, and was developed specifically for these products. This technique, besides being a Terramater active mineral exclusive, offers a practical and responsible use of microbial agents in cosmetic raw materials, while respecting nature and preserving the natural mineral clays properties. e) Rigorous granulometric Control.


4. DECONTAMINATION The decontamination process conducted by Terramater is worldwide unique. Using a method approved by certifiers of organic raw material cosmetics "ECOCERT France" and "COSMOS". This ensures an input with minimal changes its clay mineral natural characteristics and its benefits added to safe and low levels of microorganisms (bacteria and fungi), as the absence of Clostridium sp.

5. SAFETY Cocoa Brown Clay was submitted for clinical tests for safety for the dermatological evaluation of dermis compatibility. The study concluded that Cocoa Brown Clay doesn't present: a) Potential of primary irritation of the skin; b) Potential of accumulated irritation of the skin; c) Potential of sensitization of the skin. Therefore it means that it is extremely safe for application in formulations for skin care. It is important to note that during the compatibility tests of the skin; no volunteer presented any irritation sign.

6. THIXOTROPIC BEHAVIOR Cocoa Brown Clay improves the thixotropy and the sensory of hydrophilic gel.


7. ZETA POTENTIAL The zeta potential is the electric potential in the interfacial double layer at the location of the slipping plane versus a point in the bulk fluid away from the interface. In other words, zeta potential is the potential difference between the dispersion medium and the stationary layer of fluid attached to the dispersed particle. When the potential is low, attraction exceeds repulsion and the dispersion will break and flocculate. Thus, the colloids with high zeta potential (negative or positive) are electrically stabilized (Greenwood & Kendall, 1999). At pH commonly used in cosmetics, Cocoa Brown has a zeta potential between -27mV and -35mV, where the repulsive forces are larger than those of attraction, aiding stability of the cosmetic system. Skin benefits: please, see at item 10 (Detox).


8. THERMOGRAVIMETRY and DSC

Clay Mineral Weight Loss

27 - 125 ºC

Weight Loss

425 - 600 ºC

Residual mass at

1.000 ºC

Cocoa Brown Clay -1.32% -2.50% 95.56%

Clay Mineral Exothermic Peak Área (µV/mg)

Cocoa Brown Clay 600.3 oC 1.8851

9. INFRARED (IR) SPECTRUM


10. SEM - SCANNING ELECTRON MICROSCOPE SEM analysis of the Cocoa Brown Clay particles:

SEM made in microscope Model JEOL – JSM-6390LV, in UFSC Laboratory.

11. ANTI-POLLUTION & DETOX Cocoa Brown Clay has a phyllosilicate structure that can absorb and adsorb hydrophilic as well as lipophilic substances. Due this characteristic, this raw material can remove from the Skin and Hair pollutants, excess sebum, sweat, waxes, however without dehydrating. In addition, this clay mineral promotes the electric balance, due the Cationic Exchange Capacity (CEC). Furthermore, concerning the negative zeta potential (item 9), Mitsuhiro Denda (New strategies to improve skin barrier homeostasis - Advanced Drug Delivery Reviews) showed that the negative potential accelerate the skin barrier homeostasis. So, in a few words, this clay mineral removes impurities and promotes the Skin and Hair balance without dehydrating.


11.1 Cationic exchange capacity (CEC)

11.2 Water absorbtion capacity Cocoa Brown Clay deionized water absorbtion and adsorbtion capacity: 36.10 %

11.3 Oil absorbtion capacity

Cocoa Brown Clay lauryl olivate absorbtion and adsorbtion capacity: 68.85 %

12. PROPERTIES a) Anti-pollution & Detox capacity; b) It presents excellent profile of safety;; c) Mg and K source; d) Because of its zeta potential and high capacity of water absorption, it helps to stabilize emulsions; e) Concerning the structure and thixotropic behavior, helps in the improvement of the sensorial of the emulsions reducing the oily sensorial; f) Pigment. g) High adsorption and absorption capacity.

13. APPLICATIONS a) Mineral and organic make ups; b) Facial emulsions and anti-ageing gel; c) Emulsions for eyes area; d) Facial mask for use before the make-up; e) Body mask; f) Emulsions for the bust area; g) It can be applied only with the addition of water; h) Soap gel and scrubs; i) Facial masks.


14. RECOMMENDED DOSAGE LEVELS Skin Care O/W: 2-8% Skin Care W/O: 1-5% Body & facial Mask: 20-60% Gel: 2-4% Liquid Soap: 4-15% Shower Gel: 2-10% Bar Soap: 5-15%

15. STABILITY Cocoa brown clay is stable at:

pH 2,0 – 12,00 Temperature: 0 – 95 oC (32-203o Fahrenheit) Sunlight

16. COSMOS - 100% Natural Raw Material

Cocoa Brown Clay is 100% Natural. Without preservatives or chemical modifications.

Green decontamination process. Without gamma radiation use. COSMOS & ECOCERT approved.


17. Cocoa Brown Clay

Cocoa Brown Clay Organoleptic Characteristics Aspect Powder Natural Color Brown Color when it is grinded Brown Smell Characteristic Physic Characteristics Granulometric distribution in suspension (Max. medium diameter) 15.00 μm Loss for dehydration Max. 3.00 % Organic Material Max. 1.50 % Exothermic Peak (DSC) 598.00 – 601.00 oC Surface Area 18-22 m2/g Cationic Exchange Capacity 18-22 eqv/g Chemical analysis % SiO2 55.00 – 65.00

% Fe2O3 5.00 – 10.00

% CaO Max. 0.05

% P2O5 Max. 0.25

% Al2O3 15.00 – 25.00

% Na2O Max. 0.25

% TiO2 0.50 – 1.00

% MgO 0.45 – 1.00

% K2O 3.50 – 5.50

INCI CAS Nº Kaolin 1332-58-7

Shelf life 48 months

Analysis multi residues of pesticides Less than the quantification limit

Micro biological Analysis Counting of total bacteria <100 UFC/g Counting of molds and yeasts <10 UFC/g Staphylococcus aureus Absent Clostridium sp. Absent Total of the coliform bacillus Absent Pseudomonas aeruginosa Absent Storage conditions: Store in a cool, dry, ventilated place, away from light and high temperature (Above 50oC). Being a raw material of natural origin, there may have variations in color and composition between batches.

Methdology: Farmacopéia Brasileira 4ª ed., parte 1, 1998. ACME Labs – Vancouver – Canadá SGS Labs. – MG - Brasil Terramater Methods

European Pharmacopoeia 8.0 US Pharmacopoeia Ed. 37

technical data sheet cocoa brown clay - activebox.it · methdology: farmacopéia brasileira 4ª...

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