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tanning professionalbeauty.co.uk 61 Professional Beauty May 2015 AS THE WEATHER HEATS UP, W ith more and more men on the hunt for that sun-kissed glow, one thing is for sure, the “man tan” is on the rise. And gone are the days of looking like Ross from Friends after counting one too many Mississippis. Spray tanning has not only become more fashionable but a staple part of many young men’s grooming regimes, with more than one in four aged 16–24 using self-tan products, according to analyst Mintel’s Suncare UK 2014 report. “Male grooming has come a long way in recent years. It’s no longer seen as feminine to take care of our skin, hair and bodies,” says spray- tanning expert James Harknett, who tans celebrities and private clients. “50% of my client base is now men and it’s partly because men have become aware of the dangers of UV.” The bronzed and buff look sported by celebrities such as David Beckham and Mark Wright has also driven the craze. “Contouring using self-tan is becoming an increasingly popular way of subtly but effectively highlighting muscle definition and making the figure look more toned,” says freelance global tanning and skin finishing expert Jules Heptonstall, who also works events for spray tan brand St Tropez. “It is the most commonly requested tan by my male clients.” With the UK self-tan market worth an estimated £60million a year, according to Mintel, there’s ample opportunity for salons to market their treatments to meet this growing demand. “A huge proportion of men work out and nothing makes all that hard work at the gym stand out more than having it tanned,” says Harknett. “But the trick is not to over tan the face. This can be a giveaway and make the client feel a little self-conscious.” It seems that the illusion of definition is the key to successfully breaking this market. “Contouring is all about adding another dimension to the skin,” says Heptonstall. “Define abs by shading in the natural indents along the stomach, using a tanning mitt to add contours to the outsides of the abdominal muscles.” Research by analyst Kantar Worldpanel also backs the man tan trend. It reveals that spray tanning was the treatment men visited salons for most frequently last year – on average eight times a year – and suggests there’s real opportunity for client growth in Lancashire and the North East, the areas where tanning is the most popular. We spoke to three very different businesses that are all successful in the male tanning market, to find out how you can cash in on this growing trend. IT COULD BE TIME FOR SALONS TO CASH IN ON THE GROWING MARKET FOR MALE TANNING, WRITES AMANDA PAULEY Professional Beauty May 2015 professionalbeauty.co.uk tanning 62 Dubbed London’s one-stop grooming emporium for men, The Refinery offers a range of treatments to give a natural looking tan to both face and body. “We’ve had a slow but gradual increase in the number of male clients wanting a tan but we always experience an upswing during London’s social season and the summer holidays,” says managing director Deborah Gayle. “Men have a vanity about what they are going to look like on the beach or at the Henley Royal Regatta, and having a healthier glow makes them feel better.” The emporium is 15 years old and has a loyal client base – mainly men in their 20s and 30s. Although it doesn’t actively advertise any of its treatments, it does attract a steady stream of new customers via client referrals, business-to-business networking events and by marketing to neighbouring businesses, such as Vera Wang and Claridges. “We’re not a private club but we do have that aura about us, and we know it can be hard marketing tanning to men because they don’t want to be seen to be doing it,” says Gayle. “If you’re going to introduce it into your salon, the first thing you need to do is make your existing database aware, and then offer it in collaboration with another treatment. For example, many places don’t do pre-tan exfoliation body scrubs for men like we do.” The business’s success in male tanning lies in the fact that it is aware of the common pitfalls when dealing with those new to the man tan. “Men expect immediacy. They think the tan is going to be instant. You need to take control and explain point by point what is going to happen, otherwise there’s a chance THE REFINERY, LONDON they could panic as it’s all an unknown,” says Gayle. And for The Refinery’s clients it’s all about the experience. Men have their own private changing area, dedicated tanning room and therapists who provide in-depth consultations prior to treatment. “If a client comes in and has long hair on his chest, this can be problematic as it’s creating a barrier between the skin and the tan,” says The Refinery’ beauty manager Cimran Thethy. “Any salon getting into male tanning should recommend to clients that they have clippering done beforehand, to make the hair shorter, as this will even out the tan application.” However, being extremely hair-free can be just as troublesome. “You need to find out when they conducted their last hair removal because if it was recently then the skin will be too sensitive for the tan,” explains Thethy. “I tell clients to wait 24 to 48 hours before coming in so the skin has time to calm down.”

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Page 1: tanning 61 62journoportfolio.s3-website-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/users/1704/up… · seen as feminine to take care of our skin, hair and bodies,” says spray-tanning expert James

tanningprofessionalbeauty.co.uk

61

Professional Beauty May 2015

AS THE WEATHER HEATS UP,

With more and more men on the hunt for that sun-kissed

glow, one thing is for sure, the “man tan” is on the rise.

And gone are the days of looking like Ross from Friends

after counting one too many Mississippis. Spray tanning

has not only become more fashionable but a staple part of many

young men’s grooming regimes, with more than one in four aged

16–24 using self-tan products, according to analyst Mintel’s Suncare

UK 2014 report.

“Male grooming has come a long way in recent years. It’s no longer

seen as feminine to take care of our skin, hair and bodies,” says spray-

tanning expert James Harknett, who tans celebrities and private

clients. “50% of my client base is now men and it’s partly because

men have become aware of the dangers of UV.”

The bronzed and buff look sported by celebrities such as David

Beckham and Mark Wright has also driven the craze. “Contouring

using self-tan is becoming an increasingly popular way of subtly but

effectively highlighting muscle definition and making the figure look

more toned,” says freelance global tanning and skin finishing expert

Jules Heptonstall, who also works events for spray tan brand St

Tropez. “It is the most commonly requested tan by my male clients.”

With the UK self-tan market worth an estimated £60million a year,

according to Mintel, there’s ample opportunity for salons to market

their treatments to meet this growing demand. “A huge proportion of

men work out and nothing makes all that hard work at the gym stand

out more than having it tanned,” says Harknett. “But the trick is not to

over tan the face. This can be a giveaway and make the client feel a

little self-conscious.”

It seems that the illusion of definition is the key to successfully

breaking this market. “Contouring is all about adding another

dimension to the skin,” says Heptonstall. “Define abs by shading in

the natural indents along the stomach, using a tanning mitt to add

contours to the outsides of the abdominal muscles.”

Research by analyst Kantar Worldpanel also backs the man tan

trend. It reveals that spray tanning was the treatment men visited

salons for most frequently last year – on average eight times a year –

and suggests there’s real opportunity for client growth in Lancashire

and the North East, the areas where tanning is the most popular.

We spoke to three very different businesses that are all successful

in the male tanning market, to find out how you can cash in on this

growing trend.

IT COULD BE TIME FOR SALONS

TO CASH IN ON THE GROWING

MARKET FOR MALE TANNING,

WRITES AMANDA PAULEY

061-068 PBMAY15 Tanning.indd 61 15/04/2015 14:24

Professional Beauty May 2015

professionalbeauty.co.uktanning

62

Dubbed London’s one-stop grooming emporium for men, The

Refinery offers a range of treatments to give a natural looking

tan to both face and body. “We’ve had a slow but gradual

increase in the number of male clients wanting a tan but we

always experience an upswing during London’s social season

and the summer holidays,” says managing director Deborah

Gayle. “Men have a vanity about what they are going to look

like on the beach or at the Henley Royal Regatta, and having a

healthier glow makes them feel better.”

The emporium is 15 years old and has a loyal client base –

mainly men in their 20s and 30s. Although it doesn’t actively

advertise any of its treatments, it does attract a steady stream

of new customers via client referrals, business-to-business

networking events and by marketing to neighbouring businesses,

such as Vera Wang and Claridges. “We’re not a private club but

we do have that aura about us, and we know it can be hard

marketing tanning to men because they don’t want to be seen

to be doing it,” says Gayle. “If you’re going to introduce it into

your salon, the first thing you need to do is make your existing

database aware, and then offer it in collaboration with another

treatment. For example, many places don’t do pre-tan exfoliation

body scrubs for men like we do.”

The business’s success in male tanning lies in the fact that it

is aware of the common pitfalls when dealing with those new

to the man tan. “Men expect immediacy. They think the tan is

going to be instant. You need to take control and explain point

by point what is going to happen, otherwise there’s a chance

THE REFINERY, LONDON

they could panic as it’s all an unknown,” says Gayle. And for

The Refinery’s clients it’s all about the experience. Men have

their own private changing area, dedicated tanning room and

therapists who provide in-depth consultations prior to treatment.

“If a client comes in and has long hair on his chest, this can be

problematic as it’s creating a barrier between the skin and the

tan,” says The Refinery’ beauty manager Cimran Thethy. “Any

salon getting into male tanning should recommend to clients

that they have clippering done beforehand, to make the hair

shorter, as this will even out the tan application.” However,

being extremely hair-free can be just as troublesome. “You

need to find out when they conducted their last hair removal

because if it was recently then the skin will be too sensitive for

the tan,” explains Thethy. “I tell clients to wait 24 to 48 hours

before coming in so the skin has time to calm down.”

061-068 PBMAY15 Tanning.indd 62 15/04/2015 14:25

Page 2: tanning 61 62journoportfolio.s3-website-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/users/1704/up… · seen as feminine to take care of our skin, hair and bodies,” says spray-tanning expert James

Professional Beauty May 2015

professionalbeauty.co.uktanning

66

Vanilla Moon is a mobile salon that provides clients with a tan

either on location or in the privacy of their own home. The

business has experienced an increase in male clients over the

past three years. “It has been a real mixture of men – from body

builders to bricklayers – but the one thing they all have in common

is that they take a great deal of pride in their appearance,” says

owner Zoe Warner. “Many of my clients have progressed onto

tanning from waxing, so salons should always talk to their

clients about other complementary treatments they do.”

The salon’s 15-minute man tan enhances the skin to create a

more defined physique and has proved to be very popular. “I

add a deeper colour to certain sections of the body to create

shaded areas and this helps to make existing muscles look

more prominent. The technique even creates the appearance

of muscle tone across parts of the body that are a little out of

shape but in order to get the best effect I always moisturise the

ankles, elbows, knees, knuckles and fingertips beforehand – the

giveaway areas,” says Warner. “Spray tanning is like painting a

VANILLA MOON, GLOUCESTER

car – you’re not going to do a good

job if you just do one coat. You have to

work your way around the body and

personalise the treatment to the client.”

Warner uses conventional and unconventional methods to

market her services, from Twitter campaigns on skin damage

to making sure her website is SEO-optimised with key words

such as “false tan”. “You have to go to places where men go,

such as gyms, and market there. I’ve held promotion days at

local gyms where I set-up a temporary spray tent and offered

gym-goers a test patch of tan on their arm, hand or leg,”

explains Warner. “I’ve also held taster sessions at the salon and

invited men from local businesses, such as the police force and

fire brigade, to help spread the

word about what I do.”

Another client base that has

helped raise the salon’s tanning

reputation is wedding parties. “I

get a lot of clients coming in

before they get married but

instead of just promoting

packages for the bride, I also

promote treatments for the

groom and his stag party,” says

Warner. “Men care about how

they look on the big day too and

where before they may have just

had a manicure or waxing, I’ve

added tanning onto the list and it

has been a success.”

061-068 PBMAY15 Tanning.indd 66 15/04/2015 14:26

Professional Beauty May 2015

professionalbeauty.co.uktanning

68

ANESIS SALON, SPA AND CLINIC, LONDON

Catering to a unisex client base, Anesis Salon, Spa and

Clinic has recently launched its Gentlemen’s Retreat to

offer men an environment with privacy and added extras

for their man tan, including post-spray relaxation with a

cold beer. Anesis therapist Tara Fournillier says, “We

mainly get young and fit men opting for a spray tan

treatment. We have a lot of male model clients here. They

tend to come for a tan if they have a magazine shoot and

are usually pretty hairless as our young male clients do

their research and know about beauty treatments, so

most will book in for a wax well before a tan.”

Spread over three floors, the Anesis Salon, Spa and

Clinic does well through internal cross-promotion. “We

have quite a lot of male clients who use the hair salon

downstairs,” Fournillier says. “The stylists are really good

at talking about the beauty treatments we have.” If Anesis

ever has a quiet patch, manager Sonia Amoo, gets the

team to hand out leaflets on the high street.

With an active nightlife in Clapham, models are not the

only male visitors to the salon. Fournillier has many clients

who come in for a fake tan before a big night out, “Using

Sienna X, we tend to use Tonight’s the Night on them.

That formula develops in three hours and can then be

showered off. Express tans are the most popular with

men, so we use 8% DHA. But there are some men who

don't mind sleeping in it, especially if they want a darker

tan, so we tend to use a 12% DHA on them.”

For practical considerations, Anesis provides paper

boxer briefs for men to wear during the spray tan;

however, some clients prefer an all over tan so the

therapists advise them to roll the briefs up to reduce the

visible tan line. “Sometimes we get older males coming in

for a spray tan and usually the reason is that they are

about to go on holiday,” says Fournillier. Most of these

clients choose not to go hairless, so the Anesis therapists

suggest to them that they exfoliate several times a week

before the treatment. “Oil clings to the hair so the tan

won’t sit as well,” explains Fournillier. “We advise them

not to moisturise or put anything on their skin beforehand

as they need to be really dry. We tend not to spray too

close to the body either as the tan will cling to the hair,

but we always buff them afterwards so that the tan

develops evenly.” PB

061-068 PBMAY15 Tanning.indd 68 15/04/2015 14:26