Families who want to enjoy nature at its best, a nature wonder-land hidden behind Orlando’s theme parks, there is another Florida, a nature-lover’s Florida. This fascinating little known

corner of the U.S. is Mother Nature’s theme park featuring pristine rivers, trees dripping with Spanish moss, lush woods and more wildlife than people.

Our latest trip took us with my lost childhood friend Soraya and her child to the manatees’ home turf, far away from the modern-day animal refugee camps we have constructed and now call aquari-ums. We aimed our compass south to Florida’s west central coast line and the Gulf of Mexico, and it is here that we met one of the most formidable aquatic mammals.

From December to March, it is here that groups of manatees congregate. They have chosen to escape the cold winter ocean and bask in the warm waters near power plants and coastal clear water springs that stay about 72F degrees year-round. Snorkelers, divers and swimmers come from all over the world for a chance to swim or interact with the shy, gentle, docile West Indian manatee in its natural environment. Numerous dive sites, inland springs, good underwater visibility, calm water and its wintering manatee population have made Citrus County a popular destination for na-ture lovers like us.

With so many unique aspects, from lovely accommodations to guided wildlife excursions to location we checked in the Plantation Inn Golf Resort an eco-friendly resort and proud member of the Green Hotels Association and Eco Friendly Hotels Worldwide. This hotel is perfectly located to view the manatees daily.

✪ Text and photos: Bel Kambach, BKambach@stcloudstate.edu

Swimming with Homosassa’s Gentle Giants

They may not have the strength and grace of killer whales, or the agility and looks of dolphins, but manatees are stealing the show at Homosassa Springs, Florida.

Abundant plant life makes the area a perfect playground for the manatees, who arrive every year by the hundreds to fi nd warmth, food and shelter, and maybe, just maybe, to visit us, the curious humans. The area is also safe for these endangered mammals whose lives are often cut short by environmental factors and fatal encounters with speeding watercraft.

Our days in Citrus County started early in the morning, the per-fect time to snorkel with the manatees before they get tired of visitors. We boarded a pontoon boat with one of the few female Captains in the area Traci Wood from Native Vacations. We were able to observe two manatee whiskers as they maneuvered through the water, captain Traci immediately stopped the boat and pointed them out shortly after boarding. Boy, she has an eye for wildlife and that is what we needed! They are quite agile for such a large animal, sometimes even doing barrel rolls in the water. They slowly glided towards Ilse and me using their paddle-like tail to propell themselves up and down and, steering with their fl ippers, they gracefully moving their 12-foot-long bodies through the water.

Within minutes captain Traci stopped the engine again, and we were soon given instructions. Whatever you do, she said – and it doesn’t matter how excited you are – remember the three golden rules: minimize splash noise; act with very slow movements; and when you do scratch one of these friendly, gentle gray giants on the back or stomach, never touch with more than one hands at a time. Two hands are illegal. The Endangered Species Act forbids touching a manatee unless it touches you fi rst, and they will let you know. Remember you need to let the mammal make the fi rst move.

©Istockphoto, DurdenImages

30 SUOMI-USA 4/2010

The rules are strict in Homosassa, and the protection of this endangered species is taken very seriously. There is absolutely no chasing, riding or harassing the manatees. But we can assure you these rules won’t diminish your unique experience in the least bit.

In this American state, waking up one of these 2,000-pound sleeping beauties, will cost you a whopping fi ne, but it is per-fectly legal to snorkel or swim with these playful, inquisitive kids of the deep when they are awake and trying to make your acquaintance.

We were truly amazed the fi rst time we touched a manatee, which feels somewhat like touching a wet elephant. They have thick brown-to-gray leathery wrinkled skin; very tiny eyes, stiff whiskers dotting their mouth and very wrinkled faces. Hair grows sparsely over their large bodies, and they appear similar to a sea lion or Canadian walrus without tusks. They emit a repertory of loud snorts and are believed to be close relatives of the elephant and a small rodent-like animal known as a hyrax. Manatees are believed to have evolved from a wading, plant-eating animal.

A manatee is big, we’d say very big, measuring 10 to 15 feet and weighing one ton, although some larger than 12 feet and weighing as much as 3,500 pounds have been recorded in Florida. Once you’re in their world, however, it’s hard to distinguish size. They devour over four to nine percent of their body weight each day (200 pounds of greens) by eating fi ve to eight hours daily to maintain their beautiful rotund shape. They’re strictly herbivores, but they eat a great variety of aquatic plant species, including water hyacinth, hydrilla and water lettuce. Much to our surprise this offi cial marine mammal of Florida is also nearsighted.

Once Floating in the water captain Traci asked Ilse ”you want to volunteer to go in fi rst?” One glance at the huge beasts and their faces, on our fi rst stop the water was quite murky; and she immediately declined her kind offer. But it took only minutes before we cautiously began to all snorkel, her tendency was to back up when she saw the inquisitive ones approach us. Unlike the rest of our group who thought they were big, dull animals with a face only a mother could love, Ilse a normal 4th grader who like many Minnesotan kids had never seen one of these and despite their appearance, Ilse and I just couldn’t help fi nding them the most beautiful creatures of the sea, but then again we both fi nd southern elephant seals and walruses quite attractive and charming.

We swam in the river and inlets for a while and here it is not at all unusual to swim alongside a 70 pound tarpon (the world record catch was made off Homosassa) today we only found dolphins and as much as we love swimming with them we had just come back from swimming with them in Bermuda, we were here too excited to see manatees this time. Manatees prefer the warm, shallow water and abundant sea grass. We then left to the sanctuary and headed toward the deeper clear stunning blue waters of the springs where, once again, we fastened our underwater cameras to our arms and quietly lowered ourselves into the water.

For land lubbers

There’s no greater place than Homosassa to get an education without opening a book. Many of Homosassa’s attractions offer opportunities for visitors to get up close and personal with wildlife, always a big hit with children who love wildlife like Ilse. Since not all visitors want to get nose-to-nose with the manatees, the best place for non- swimmers to view these endangered mammals is Homosassa Springs State Wildlife Park, which showcases native Florida wildlife including alligators, birds, bears and an impressive menagerie of animals to be seen. The park, located at the head-waters of the crystal clear Homosassa River is impressive with 250- acre park and a 45-foot deep fi rst-magnitude natural spring that gushes forth millions of gallons of fresh water per hour from more than thirty natural springs and meanders for nine miles to enter the Gulf of Mexico.

Most importantly the park provides refuge for captive-born manatees and a halfway house for rehabilitating those who will be returned to the wild. Some manatees that have been injured or orphaned will spend their lives in the park as they are unable to sur-vive in the wild. The park also serves as a research, rehabilitation and observation center, here I arranged a private tour with one of their top wildlife interpreters Charlotte Gable and she made our visit very special. Here in the spring there is a fun fl oating underwater observatory that provides a fi sh eye view of the manatees - the next best thing to actually swimming with them. The huge windows allow for visitors to view thousands of tropical fresh and saltwater fi sh (34 different species) and manatees at a very close range as they frolic, roll and enjoy their daily lettuce and cabbage fi x and feed their young! One of the top locations to take close-up pics of them feeding their young.

Wildlife Interpreter Homosassa Springs Wildlife State Park Charlotte Gable Homosassa Springs Wildlife State Park & Professor Bel kambach (left).

31SUOMI-USA 4/2010

Another guided tour I planned prior to arrival and we greatly enjoyed was at the Chassahowitzka National Wildlife Refuge com-plex by the park rangers Michael Lusk where we learn about the Crystal River National Wildlife Refuges efforts for the conservation of manatees, this was a great place for stunning nature photogra-phy of the springs. They also have a great manatee gift shop and a 900’ manatee education exhibit area, providing many displays to pique the younger visitors’ interest.

Today, as in centuries past, a visitor can select many underwater pursuits in these glorious springs, rivers and subtropical fl ora and fauna at Citrus County. This is truly the water lover’s Florida. We left believing there is still hope that the manatee may yet be saved from extinction, but the public needs to become aware of the problem!! These gentle giants are so impressive by their size and manner; it is extremely diffi cult not to fall in love with them. Conservation starts at a very young age, bring your children here!

I’ve carried a mental picture of it-big and leathery, slow-paddling, chewing kelp like a cow-through my life. But I had no idea! I guess I always knew I was destined to swim with them, but until I fi nally did, I had no idea why? Truth is, swimming with them is a life altering experience. ✪

For Landlubber’sYou can literally design your own itinerary here from an ima-ginative selection of energetic shore excursions here our absolute favorites and must do: Meeting the handsome Park rangers and Manager Michael Lusk and/or Ivan Vicente at the Chassahowitzka National Wildlife Refuge complex where we learn about the Crystal River National Wildlife Refuges efforts for the conservation of manatees and their habitat. Chassahowitzka National Wildlife Refuge Complex, www.fws.gov/chassahowitzka, 502 S.E. Kings Bay Drive, Crystal River, FL 34429 P: 352-563-2088 E: chassahowitzka@fws.gov Homosassa Springs Wildlife State Park www.fl oridastate-parks.org, 4150 S. Suncoast Blvd, Homosassa, Florida 34446 P: (352) 628-5343 Charlotte Gable can arrange a tour. If you would like more information about this refuge, the refuge system, or if you would like to volunteer your services, please contact the refuge manager.

Manatee MannersSwimming with the endangered manatees is a privilege most people may never experience. If you intend to enjoy this thril-ling encounter, you must understand your responsibilities as a steward of the species and the environment. With manatees passive observation (observing from a distance) is the best way to protect manatees and all wildlife. If you see manatees while swimming, diving, or boating, you may want to follow these suggestions:

1. Do not enter designated manatee sanctuaries for any reason.

2. Sanctuaries are in effect from November 1 to March 31.3. Operate boat at idle and slow speed where posted

speed zones are in effect4. Observe manatees from the surface of the water and

at a distance. Manatees on the bottom are likely to be resting or feeding.

5. Avoid excessive noise and splashing.6. Use snorkel gear when attempting to watch manatees-

the sound of scuba gear may cause them to leave the area.

7. Do not feed manatees or give them water.8. Never ride, chase, poke or surround manatees.9. Never separate a mother and calf or an individual from

the group.

Travel BriefEssential Information: Before you go: November through March is when manatees are in residence in this region. Sanctuaries are in effect from November 15 - March 31. Crystal River is the only place in the world for snorkelers to swim with the West Indian manatee in relatively clear water. Getting There: Citrus County and Crystal River is less than 1.5hr drive from Orlando, Tampa or Daytona. The closest cities would be Crystal River, Inverness and Homosassa, FL. Citrus County Visitors & Convention Bureau, www.visitcitrus.com, 9225 West Fishbowl Drive, Homosassa, Florida 34448 P: 800-587-6667 P: 352-628-9305 F: 352-628-0703 E: info@visitcitrus.com

Ilse Kambach having fun.

32 SUOMI-USA 4/2010

Biologists place manatees as members of the Sirenia genus, the mythical sirens who were once believed to have lured ancient Greek sailors to destruction. This evolved from the tale about a sailor mistaking an upright, nursing dugong for a mermaid. It is believed that Christopher Columbus was the fi rst European to report seeing a manatee in the New World, and to him and other sailors who had been at sea for too long, manatees were also reminiscent of mermaids -- the mythical half-fi sh, half-woman creatures of the ocean. Manatees are, however not fi sh, but marine mammals.

There are today four widely recognized species: the endan-gered Florida manatee (Trichechus manatus), a subspecies of the West Indian manatee, population numbers only 2,000 in the U.S. Manatees are also found in the tropical and subtropical waters of the Caribbean, northeastern South America and the Amazon (Trichechus in unguis), West Africa (Trichechus sen-egalensis), and Indo-Pacifi c regions (Dugong dugon).

Historically, manatees were hunted by Native Americans and later by colonists. They became victims, hunted almost to ex-tinction. Manatee fat was used for lamp oil, bones were used for medicinal purposes, and the hide for leather. This hunting has been largely responsible for the manatee’s initial decline.

The fi fth species that once lived in Arctic waters of the Ber-ing Straight, the Steller’s sea cow (Hydrodamalis gigas) were hunted to extinction within 27 years. No Steller sea cow was ever collected for science, and drawings made by naturalist George Steller’s assistant (1741) on the return leg of explorer Vitus Ber-ing’s fi rst Russian voyage to Alaska only briefl y described it. Modern day extinction of the manatee is an issue that shouldn’t

be dismissed. Although manatees have no natural enemies or predators, as they are not territorial and have no known agenda, pretty much they just swim, sleep and eat. They do face threats from cold weather.

Manatees, like people, are susceptible to cold and hypother-mia and cannot survive for extended periods when water tem-peratures fall below 68F. Civilization, pollution and destruction of their habitat by coastal development also affect their survival rate. 1967 was the year manatees were listed as an endangered species considered in danger of extinction throughout all or a signifi cant portion of its range. Florida also passed a law to protect manatees and designated the entire state as a refuge through a Sanctuary Act.

It was sad to learn that about 85 percent of adult manatees are identifi able to researchers studying their behavior by unique scar patterns on their bodies that result mostly from boat pro-peller injuries. Speeding boats run over many manatees that are submerged just below the surface, killing them either by impact with the boat itself or by slicing into their backs with the propellers More than 43 percent of manatee deaths has been attributed to human related factors.

A record high for water craft related manatee mortality was set two years ago, according to post-mortem exams conducted in Florida. There were 240 deaths, many resulting from encoun-ters with boats, fi shing line and traps. Death can result if the manatee’s digestive tract becomes blocked by fi shing line ac-cidentally eaten. Their algae-covered bodies are also diffi cult for boaters to spot, and when they bobble up for air or while swim-ming near the surface they cannot avoid the fast-moving boats.

Manatee Facts

www.like .fi

Levoton veriHistoriallinen rikoskirja, joka jäljittää elämää suurempia kissa ja hiiri -leikkejä poliittisesti epä-vakaassa Amerikassa aikana, jolloin vain totuus oli tarua ihmeellisempää.

Hillikerin kirous – Elämäni naisetSuorasukainen ja peittelemätön elämäkerta, jossa Ellroy kertoo elämänsä traagisista tapahtumista – äitinsä ratkaisemattomasta murhasta ja pakkomielteisistä naissuhteista.

AmerikAn rikoskirjAllisuuden kovAksi keitetyltä kummisedältä

www.like .fiwww.like .fi

Professor Bel Kambach teaches Ecotourism and the Environment at St. Cloud State University in Minnesota.

33SUOMI-USA 4/2010