stitch
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TRANSCRIPT
Stitch
Prepared By : Mazadul Hasan sheshirID: 201000040000813th Batch (session 2009-2013)Department : Wet Processing Technology Email: [email protected] : www. Textilelab.blogspot.com (visit)
Southeast University Department Of Textile Engineering
I/A 251,252 Tejgaon Dhaka Bangladesh
Prepared By :
©right
Stitch:
Stitch is a Unit or Loop in a seam. Which is produced by three principle Inter looping,
Intra looping, Inter lacing.
Inter looping : Loop of one thread passes through the loop of another thread.
Intra looping : Loop of one thread passes through the loop of same thread.
Inter Lacing: One thread passes over another thread.
Stitch:
Stitch:
Textile stitch types-classification and terminology, stitches are catalogued into six classes (as per BS3870/ASTM D-6193/ISO 4915:1991). The international and standardization uses the identical numbering.
Stitch qualityStitch quality is measured with stitch size (stitch length, width, and depth) tension, sequence, elongation, elasticity, resilience, fabric distortion, yarn severance, abrasive strength.
Class 100:is chain stitch type, is formed with one or more needle threads introduced from one side of the material only.
chain stitch is elastic and thicker than lockstitch and can easily be ravelled; particular care is required to prevent runback from the last stitch. Used for temporary stitching or for Blind stitching.
Class 200:is a hand stitch type, is formed by single thread passed from one side of the material to the other in successive needle penetrations.
a slow process and need huge manpower to finish bulk order. Used for handwork.
Stitch types of designation
Class 300:is a lock stitch type, is formed by a needle thread or threads, introduced from one side of the material, interlacing with an under thread
supplied from a bobbin on the other side. low bulk and thin, good strength and abrasion resistance Poor elasticity, non ravel limited sewing length, need to replace bobbin thread. for seams requiring stretch.
Class 400:is multi thread chain stitch type, is formed with two/more groups of threads having general characteristic of interlacing interloping of the loops of the two groups.
non ravel, strong, good elasticity, less likely to cause seam pucker due to structural jamming
good seam stretch does not need to wind bobbin lower resistance to runback and have increased bulk under the seam
Stitch classesStitch classes are designated and identified by the first digit of a “3 digit numeral system”. Type of stitch within each class are designated and identified by 2nd and 3rd digit.
Stitch types of designation
Class 500:is over lock over edge stitch type, is formed with one or more needles and/or loopier threads with at least one thread passing round the edge of the material being sewn.
Excellent stretchable good recovery Seam or edge neatening suitable for many types of fabric subject to fraying or slippage.
Class 600:is formed with two or more groups of threads, has for a general characteristic that two groups of thread cover surfaces of the material.
High elasticity, seam neatening and Flat seam stitch, Bulk, Fast machine speed
No need of Bobbin Greater thread consumption Covering stitches for decorative purpose, Can be used to join
two raw edges, suitable for knitted garments.
Stitch types of designation
Types of Stitch:
1. Stitch Class- 100 (Single thread chain stitch).
2. Stitch Class- 200 (Hand Stitch).
3. Stitch Class- 300 (Lock Stitch).
4. Stitch Class- 400 (Multi thread chain stitch).
5. Stitch Class- 500 (Over lock stitch).
6. Stitch Class- 600 (Covering chain stitch).
Types of Stitch:
Stitch Class-100(Single thread chain stitch):
1. In this stitch -one loop passing through another loop of same thread.
2. Security of this seam is poor/not satisfactory.
3. Only one needle thread is used for making this stitch.
4. It is also used blind stitch purpose.
Subclass: Stitch Class 103 (Blind Stitch); use in Heming.Stitch Class 103 (Blind Stitch); use in Heming.
Usages:Hemming, button attaching, button holing, gathering and temporary positioning of garment component and purpose.
Stitch Class-100 (Single thread chain stitch):
Sub-Classes: Stitch Class-100
Sub-Class- 101:
Uses: It is used for blasting (temporary stitching). e.g. Blazer components joining before final sewing to cooperate sewing.
Sub-Class-103: Blind Stitch.
Feature:One side is invisible and other side is like chain.
Use: Bottom hemming of dress pants.
Stitch Class-200(Hand Stitch): This stitch is produced for longer length sewing. Use for costly garments. Need more time and skilled operator.
Sub-Classes:
Sub-Class-202: This type of stitch is formed by hand.
Sub-Class-209: This type of stitch is formed by “Pique Stitch Machine’’.
Uses: Lapel of Blazer, collar of shirt, saddle stitch etc.
Saddle Stitch: A special type of stitch which is formed by Pique Stitch Machine using Thick thread. It is used in Cowboy Jeans.
Stitch Class-200 (Hand Stitch)
Stitch Class-200 (Hand Stitch)
This type of stitch is formed with one thread. It is a machine made version of traditional hand stitching sometimes referred to as Saddle Stitch.
Stitch Class-300(Lock Stitch):1. Both Sides are same.2. Less extensibility.3. Bobbin capacity is less.4. High Security.5. It requires two types of sewing thread.6. More compact.7. It is widely used in garments factory.
Usages:Lock stitch is extensively used for joining fabrics collar, cuff, pocket, facing etc. Top stitching is used for button holing, attaching, blind stitching etc.
Stitch Class-300 ( Lock Stitch):
Subclass: 301, 304.
Sub-Classes: Stitch Class-300
Sub-Class-301:
Use: Top stitching in garments.
Sub-Class-304:
Uses: Elastic attaching, lace attaching etc.
This type of stitch is formed with two threads: one needle thread (A) and one bobbin thread (B). A loop of thread (A) is passed through the material and interlaced with thread (B). Thread (A) is then pulled back so that the interlacing is midway between surfaces of the material or materials being sewn. Ideally, this stitch should have a 1 : 1 ratio of needle to bobbin thread.
The 304 stitch formation is commonly referred to as the Zig-Zag Lockstitch. To produce the zig-zag appearance, the needle bar moves laterally as the material is fed. This type of stitch is formed with two threads: one needle thread (A) and one bobbin thread (B). A loop of thread (A) is passed through the material and interlaced with thread (B). Thread (A) is then pulled back so that the interlacing is midway between surfaces of the material or materials being sewn. Ideally, this stitch should have a 1 : 1 ratio of needle to bobbin thread.
Sub-Classes: Stitch Class-300
Stitch Class- 400(Multithread chain stitch):
1. Security is higher than lock stitch.
2. One or more thread is used.
3. One group is called upper thread and another group is called looper thread
(under thread).
4. Higher production than lock stitch due to use large package.
5. It is widely use for making knitted garments.
Hemming: Hem is the end of the garment and the process of making hem is called hemming
Stitch Class- 400 (Multithread chain stitch)
Stitch Class- 400 (Multithread chain stitch)
Subclass:
401(1n+1l); Use in Jens.
406(2n+2l); Use in T-Shirt (Heming). (Flat Lock).
407(3n+1l) Use in Brief’s. (Flat Lock).
Usages:This type of stitches is used foe sewing lace, braid and elastic. Stitch type-401 is
used in jeans and trouser.
Sub-Classes: Stitch Class- 400
Upper side
Bottom side
401: 1Needle + 1Looper Uses: Inseam and out seam of jeans.
406: 2Needle + 1Looper
Uses: Sleeve and bottom hem of T-shirt.
407: 3Needle + 1Looper
Uses: Sleeve and bottom hem of T-shirt & Polo-shirt.
Sub-Classes: Stitch Class- 400
This type of stitch is formed with two threads: one needle thread (A) and one looper thread (B). Loops of thread (A) are passed through the material and interlaced and interlooped with loops of thread (B). These interloopings are drawn up against the underside of the bottom ply of the material being sewn.
The 404 stitch formation is commonly referred to as the Zig-Zag Chainstitch. Its formation is similar to the 401stitch. To produce the zig-zag appearance, the needle bar moves laterally as the material is fed. This type of stitch is formed with two threads: one needle thread (A) and one looper thread (B). Loops of thread (A) are passed through the material and interlaced and interlooped with loops of thread (B). These interloopings are drawn up against the underside of the bottom ply of the material being sewn.
Sub-Classes: Stitch Class- 400
This type of stitch is formed with three threads: two needle threads (A & A1) and one looper thread (B). Loops of the needle threads (A & A1) are passed through the material and interlaced and interlooped with loops of thread (B). These interloopings are then drawn against the underside of the material being sewn.
This type of stitch is formed with fourthreads: three needle threads (A, A1 & A2) and one looper thread (B). Loops of the needle threads (A, A1 & A2) are passed through the material and interlaced and interlooped with loops of thread (B). These interloopings are then drawn against the underside of the material being sewn.
Sub-Classes: Stitch Class- 400
This type of stitch is formed using five threads; two needle threads (A & A1), two looper threads (B & B1) and one Top covering thread (C). This stitch is two rows of 401 two thread chainstitch with a top covering thread laid on the upper surface of the material being sewn.Loops of the threads (A & A1) are passed through the material and interlaced and interlooped with loops of threads (B & B1). The top covering thread (C) is laid between and around the needle threads on the surface ofthe material The interloopings of the neeedle and looper threads are drawn up against the underside of the bottom ply of the material being sewn.
Stitch Class- 500(Over Lock Stitch):1. To prevent fraying out of loss yarn.2. Use to make knitted garments.3. Also use for decorative purpose.
Subclass: British Standard:
503(1n+1l); Use for edging.
504(1n+2l); Use for edging & light seaming.
514(2n+2l); Use edging & Heavy seaming.
American Standard: Combination Stitch
515(401 + 503); Use for edging & sewing.
516(401 + 504); Use for edging & sewing.
Usages: This stitch type can be used to make a decorative edge.
Stitch Class- 500 (Over Lock Stitch)
Sub-Classes:
503: 1Needle + 1Looper
Use: Only for edging.
504: 1Needle + 2Looper
Uses: For edging & light seaming.
514: 1Needle + 2Looper
Uses: For edging & heavy seaming.
Sub-Classes: Stitch Class- 500
Sub-Classes: Stitch Class- 500
This type of stitch is formed with two threads: one needle thread (A) and one looper thread (B). Loops of the needle thread (A) are passed through the material and brought to the edge where they are interlooped with thread (B). The loops of thread (B) are extended from this interlooping to the point of needle penetration of the next stitch and there are interlooped with thread (A).
This type of stitch is formed with three threads: one needle thread (A), one lower looper thread (B), and one upper looper thread (C). Loops of the needle thread (A) are passed through the material andinterlooped with loops of thread (B) at the point of penetration on the underside of the material.The loops of thread (B) are extended to the edge of the material and there interlooped with loops of the upper looper thread (C).
Sub-Classes: Stitch Class- 500
This type of stitch is formed with three threads: one needle thread (A), one lower looper thread (B), and one upper looper thread (C). Loops of the needle thread (A) are passed through the material and interlooped with loops of thread (B) at the point of penetration on the underside of the material.
The loops of thread (B) are extended to the edge of the material and there interlooped with loops of the upper looper thread (C). Loops of thread (C) are extended from this interlooping point of the needle penetration of the next stitch and there, they are interlooped with thread (A).Stitch type 505 is very similar to stitch type 504. The main difference is that in stitch type 505 the lower looper thread (B) Is tighter and the needle thread (A) is looser than in stitch type 504. Stitch type 505 is a three thread version of stitch type 503.
Sub-Classes: Stitch Class- 500
This type of stitch is formed with four threads: two needle threads (A & A1) a lower looper thread (B) and an upper looper thread (C). Loops of the needle threads (A & a1) are passed through the material and interlooped with loops of thread (B) at the point of penetration on the underside of the material.
The loops of thread (B) are extended to the edge of the material and there interlooped with loops of thread (C). Loops of thread (C) are extended from this interlooping point of the needle penetration of the next stitch and there, interlooped with thread (A).
This type of stitch is formed with four threads: two needle threads (A & A1) a lower looper thread (B) and an upper looper thread (C). Loops of the needle threads (A & a1) are passed through the material and interlooped with loops of thread (B) at the point of penetration on the underside of the material. The loops of thread (B) are extended to the edge of the material and there interlooped with loops of thread (C).
Loops of thread (C) are extended from this interlooping point of the needle penetration of the next stitch and there, interlooped with threads (A & A1).
Sub-Classes: Stitch Class- 500
This type of stitch is formed by simultaneously sewing one row of stitch 401, using threads (A & B), a specified distance from the edge of the material, and one row of stitch type 503 using threads (A1 & B1) on the edge of the material.
Stitch Class-600(Covering Chain Stitch):1. At least three (1n+2l) set of thread are use.2. This stitch is use in undergarments to attach lace, braid or elastic.3. This Stitch is also use to join side by side of fabric without increasing
thickness.
Subclass:
602; Use for decorative purpose.
605; Use for decorative purpose.
406; Use for T-Shirt/ Polo shirt heading.
Usages:This type of stitch is used for sewing under wear for attaching lace, braid elasticity.
Stitch Class-600 (Covering Chain Stitch)
Sub-Classes: Stitch Class-600
Sub-Classe-602: 2Needle + 2Looper
Use: Sleeve and bottom hem of T-shirt, Polo-shirt & decorative purpose.
Sub-Classe-605: 3Needle + 2Looper
Uses: For decorative purpose & elastic attaching of under garments.
Sub-Classe-606: 4Needle + 5Looper
Uses: Not used in our country.
Sub-Classes: Stitch Class-600
This type of stitch is formed with 4 threads: two needle threads (A) and (A1) ; one looper thread (B); and one cover thread (C). Loops of thread (A) and (A1) are passed through loops of thread (C) already cast on the surface of the material, and then through the material where they shall be interlooped with loops of thread (B) on the underside.
This type of stitch is formed with 5 threads: three needle threads (A), (A1) & (A2) ; one looper thread (B); and one cover thread (C). Loops of thread (A), (A1) and (A2) are passed through loops of thread (C) already cast on the surface of the material, and then through the material where they shall be interlooped with loops of thread (B) on the underside.
Sub-Classes: Stitch Class-600
This type of stitch is formed with six threads: four needle threads (A), (A1), (A2), and (A3); one looper thread (B); and one cover thread (C). Loops of thread (A), (A1), (A2), and (A3) are passed through loops of thread (C) already cast on the surface of the material, and then through the material where they shall be interlooped with loops of thread (B) on the underside.
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