Stitches and Seams

Stitch Formation

Some Definitions;

• A STITCH is Loop or loops of one or more threads when bounds with each other by interlacing ,Interlooping or Intralooping .

• A SEAM is a line where two or more fabrics are joined.

• A STITCHING consists of a series of stitches embodied in a material for ornamental purposes or finishing an edge.

Stitches

Stitch Class100 Class Single-Thread Chain Stitch

200 Class Hand Stitch

300 Class Lock Stitch

400 ClassChain Stitch/Multi thread chain

stitch

500 Class Over edge Stitch

600 Class Flat Stitch

100 Class StitchesSingle Thread Chain stitches Using One Needle Thread and One Blind Looper

View of Seam Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Uses

101 Class One ThreadBasting, or light

construction

103 Class One ThreadBlind stitch for

Hemming

104 Class One Thread Saddle Stitch

200 Class StitchesSingle Thread Hand Sewn Stitches Using One Needle Thread

View of Seam Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Uses

202 Class One ThreadBasting,

Tacking or Repairs

205 Class One ThreadPick Stitch - Topstitching

300 Class StitchesTwo or more Thread Lock Stitches Using Needle Thread(s) and One Bobbin Hook Thread

View of Seam Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Uses

301 Class Two ThreadsSeaming Multiple

Plies

304 Class Two ThreadZig-Zag Stitch; a stretch lockstitch

306 Class Two Thread Blind Stitch

315 Class Two Threads

"Three Step Zig-Zag; a stretch lockstitch with more stretch

400 Class StitchesMulti-Thread Chain Stitches Using One or More Needle Threads and One or More Looper Threads

View of Seam Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Uses

401 Class Two ThreadsSeaming Multiple

Plies with moderate stretch

406 Class Three Threads"Bottom Cover

Stitch; a (greater) stretch chain stitch

500 Class StitchesMulti-Thread OverEdge Chainstitches Using Needle Thread(s) and Looper Thread(s)

View of Seam Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Uses

502 Class Two ThreadOne Needle Overedge

stitch for Serging

503 Class Two ThreadOver edge stitch for

Serging with Crossover on Edge of Fabric

View of Seam Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Uses

504 Class Three ThreadOveredge stitch for

Serging and Light Seaming

512 Class Four Thread

Mock Safety Stitch for Seaming with wide bite and Greater Stretch for

Knits

514 Class Four Thread

Over edge Stitch for Seaming with wide bite and Greater Stretch for

Knits

515 Class Four Thread

True Safety Stitch for Seaming with Good

Stretch for Wovens and Knits

516 Class Five Thread

True Safety Stitch for Seaming with Good

Stretch for Wovens and Knits

600 Class StitchesMulti-Thread Cover stitches

View of Seam Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Uses

602 Class Four ThreadCoverStitch or Seaming Knits

605 Class Five ThreadCoverStitch or

Butt-Seams

607 Class Six ThreadWide Cover

Stitch or Butt-Seams

700 Class StitchesSingle Thread Lockstitch Using One Needle Thread and Rewinding Bobbin

View of Seam Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Uses

701 Class One ThreadLockstitch Tacking

Seams

Seam Class:SS Class Superimposed Seams

LS Class Lapped Seams

BS Class Bound (Binding) Seams

FS Class Flat (Butted) Seams

EF Class Edge Finish Stitching

OS Class Ornamental Stitching

Superimposed SeamsSeams in which Two or More Plies of Fabric are Superimposed on Each Other

Seam View Seam Class Needle CountTypical Uses and

Stitch Types

SSa 1 or 2Seaming two plies using 100cl, 300cl,

400cl, or 500cl

SSb 1 or 2

Seaming two plies with one edge

folded using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

SSc 1 or 2

Seaming two plies with a finished

edge 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Lapped SeamsSeams in which Two or More Plies of Fabric are Superimposed and/or Folded on Each Other

Seam Class Needle CountTypical Uses and

Stitch Types

LSa 1 or 2Overlap seam of two plies at edges using

100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

LSb 1 or 2

Overlap seam of two plies with one edge folded using 100cl,

300cl, or 400cl

LSc 1, 2 or 3

Flat Felled Seam using 100cl, 300cl,

or 400cl

Bound SeamsSeams in which One Ply of Fabric is sewn over the edge of Two or More Plies of

Fabric

Seam Class Needle CountTypical Uses and

Stitch Types

BSa 1 or 2Binding over the

edge of one ply using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

BSb 1 or 2Binding over the

edge of one ply using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

BSc 1 or 2Binding over the

edge of one ply using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Flat SeamsSeams in which Two or More Plies of Fabric are Sewn Together at the Edges

Seam Class Needle CountTypical Uses and

Stitch Types

FSa 4

Coverstitch Seaming two plies

using 606cl, or 607cl

FSb 2

Coverstitch Seaming two plies

using 602cl, or 603cl

FSc 2

Cover stitch Seaming two plies

using 602cl, or 603cl

Edge Finish StitchingFabric Edge is Finished with Stitching

Seam Class Needle CountTypical Uses and

Stitch Types

EFa 1 or 2Finishing one ply using 100cl, 300cl,

or 400cl

EFb 1 or 2Finishing one ply using 100cl, 300cl,

or 400cl

EFc 1Finishing one ply using 100cl, 300cl,

or 400cl

Ornamental StitchingOrnamental Stitching is Stitches Sewn on One Ply of Fabric

Seam Class Needle CountTypical Uses and Stitch

Types

OSa 1 Decorative Stitching using 100cl, 300cl,

400cl or 600cl

OSb 1 or 2

Decorative Stitching using cording

Sometimes called "Pin-tuck" with CordingUsing 304cl or 406cl

stitch

OSc 1 or 2

Decorative Stitching sometimes called "Pin-

tuck"Using 304cl or 406cl

stitch

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