steppes traveller

0843 634 2778 // www.steppestravel.com | 1

SPACE TRAVELNortH west arGeNtINa

MEMORIES OF A gEISHAJAPAN

BUSHMEN BAOBABS & BLISSBotswaNa

FROZEN PLANET

JaNUarY 2015

2 | steppes traveller // JaNUarY 2015

ContentsWinter issue Cover Shot Ladakhi woman nubra vaLLey, india © ken koChey

2 Introduction4 Go Now6 Hot Right Now8 Space Travel12 Memories of a Geisha16 Flying Safaris20 Bushmen, Baobabs & Bliss24 MakingaDifference26 On Location: Canadian Arctic28 Frozen Planet30 India On Foot34 Epic Journeys38 Private Charters40 Iran42 Ultimate Wildlife46 On Location: Alaska48 Wildlife Group Tours50 Expert Led Group Tours

Editor’s LetterIt’s well known to those that know me, that I’m a little obsessed with Tintin. As a child I gazed at exotic places I would dream of visiting. This yearn for adventure has never left me and as an adult I encourage my children to do the very same thing. Tintin embodies the adventurous spirit of travel. A lot like Steppes, he epitomises the expert explorer. There is no car, motorcycle, train, boat, submarine, tank, plane, helicopter, horse or camel that Tintin cannot drive, ride, steer or fly. His resourcefulness, and flexibility gets him through. In the Land of the Soviets, he carves an airplane propeller from a tree using a pocketknife. In Cigars of the Pharaoh, he fashions a wooden trumpet with which to communicate with the elephants. He embraces the curiosity of a child yet is ageless, fearless and has even landed on the moon.

Life is one big adventure and all the better shared. We hope you will be inspired by our latest adventures and make your own in 2015.

Justin Wateridge Managing Director


Did you know? On the Road

In “Tintin in Tibet” (published the same year that the Dalai Lama fled the Himalayan kingdom) the Grand Abbot who bears a similarity to the previous Dalai Lama names Tintin “Pure Heart.” In 2006 Tintin was honoured by the current Dalai Lama with a Light of Truth Award for his contribution to the Tibetan people.

In one of the first adventures “In the Land of the Soviets” Tintin is involved in a car chase, during which his hair is blown into a quiff – and that’s the way his hair is styled in all the books.

Who is Ranko? Answer below...

Like Tintin, this year we take to the road in more ways than one.

We’ll try not to get into too many scrapes as we head to a town near you for our Steppes Talks. A number of our experts will share their travel stories and insight into their specialist areas and countries. Do come along and quiz the team. For more details contact us by phone or email and visit our website event pages for more news of what’s on.

i am not a hero. but Like aLL 15 year oLd boyS, i dreamt of being one…and i have

never Stopped dreaming. Hergé

(The Gorilla in The Black Island)

350 million books sold worldwide508,000 the amount of pounds one original artwork of Tintin was sold for100 languages translated from the original text 37 countries have been featured including 16 fictitiouscountries24 books 1 man’s best friend Snowy

The travels of TintinTintin in the Land of the Soviets Belgium, germany, Poland, Soviet union

Tintin in the Congo CongoTintin in America uSa Cigars of the Pharaoh egyPt, Saudi araBia, india

The Blue Lotus CHina The Broken Ear San tHeodoroS, nuevo-riCoThe Black Island Britain

King Ottokar’s Sceptre CzeCHoSlovakia, Syldavia, Borduria The Crab with the Golden Claws moroCCo The Shooting Star iCeland The Secret of the Unicorn Belgium Red Rackham’s Treasure CariBBean The Seven Crystal Balls Belgium, Peru

Prisoners of the Sun PeruLand of Black Gold kHemedDestination Moon outer SPaCe Explorers on the Moon outer SPaCe The Calculus Affair Switzerland, FranCe

The Red Sea Sharks leBanon Tintin in Tibet nePal/tiBetThe Castafiore Emerald Belgium Flight 714 Jakarta, Pulau-Pulau BomPa iSland, auStralia Tintin and the Picaros latin ameriCa Tintin and Alph-Art tHe world oF modern art

Tintin facts


Sao miguel loS milagreS, Brazil

Languid and low key, Sao Miguel los Milagres lies

in a sleepy fishing village on the preserved coast of

Northeast Brazil. Long sandy beaches framed by

hundreds of coconut palms meet warm turquoise

waters. A cliché? Perhaps but it is one that has a

simplicity as yet untouched.

12 days with 4 days at Sao Miguel dos Milagres from

£2,945 pp including flights

Go NowkoH Surin, tHailandtHe moken Sea gyPSieSKoh Surin lies just an hour by speedboat from the mainland but a world away from the other Andaman Islands. With no hotel on the island, this five star experience is all about time spent with the sea gypsies, the nomadic Moken people, and their unique way of life.

10 days from £2,245 pp including flights

FezThe imperial city of Fez feels more like Southern Spain than

North Africa. Famed for its pottery and tanneries, the heart of

the old city remains an unspoilt maze of alleyways and souqs.

Venture beyond the city for rolling olive groves and the superb

mosaics at the Roman ruins of Volubilis.

4 days from £495 pp including flights

JaPan’S iSlandS

Often overlooked, Japan’s 6,000 plus islands range from

the truly remote to those that rival the Galapagos. Dive

with manta rays and hammerhead sharks at Okinawa – the

birthplace of Karate - or visit an island of outstanding natural

beauty like Shikoku with rugged mountains and hillside

villages. The current exchange rate make it a particularly

good time to go.


JaPan’S iSlandS

Often overlooked, Japan’s 6,000 plus islands range from


Hwange national Park and matoBo

HillS, zimBaBwe

Explore amongst some of the highest game densities in Africa

with a combination of Hwange and Matobo Hills. Hwange can

be reached by taking Elephant Express – a traditional trolley

train through the park where huge herds of elephants await.

In Matobo discover ancient rock art, rhino and eagles under

the expert guidance of Paul Hubbard.


Hwange national Park and matoBo

myanmar, Flying SaFari

Experience Myanmar by hot air balloon, float over

the 4,000 plus temples at Bagan or take our two day

safari soaring over the famous floating gardens of

Inle and patchwork fields of Shan State. A cultural

adventure and a far cry from the usual tourist trails.


myanmar, Flying SaFari

Experience Myanmar by hot air balloon, float over

kaHuzi Biega,

demoCratiC rePuBliC oF Congo

Straddling the Albertine Rift and the Congo Basin, Kahuzi

Biega National Park is a UNESCO site of primary tropical

forest dominated by two extinct volcanoes. Now re-open

and unquestionably the best place to track endangered

Eastern Lowland Gorillas. We recommend staying at

Orchids Safari club which sits on the edge of Lake Kivu.

Travel here and help support wildlife conservation.

7 days from £2,995 pp including flights & gorilla permit

kaHuzi Biega, oF Congo


lux, liJiang, CHina

Newly opened, a boutique traditional timber-framed hotel of just

10 rooms and the only five star property within the ancient city

itself. We like the personal touches: Jessie, your private tour guide,

traditional Naxi cooking, calligraphy classes, bikes and maps so

you can explore the city independently.


lux, liJiang, CHina

Newly opened, a boutique traditional timber-framed hotel of just

Hot right nowSandiBe okavango SaFari lodge, BotSwanaIn the Delta, on a private concession, immersed in a spectacular setting opposite the wildlife packed Moremi National Park. Outstanding design, outstanding location and outstanding wildlife viewing make it the place to stay in Botswana.

10 days from £4,395 pp including all flights

kaPHila moBile CamPS, india

In a nutshell this camp offers India far from the madding

crowds and has to be the best way to experience

Ladakh’s Nubra Valley in summer. Proper beds,

elegantly if simply furnished with very well trained staff

and superb guides.

7 days mobile Kaphila safari from June to

September from £2,545 pp including flights based

on two sharing, including all meals, porterage,

transfers and guiding

SCalaSia, iSaBela iSland, galaPagoS

Opening in March 2015, Scalasia is a luxury tented camp

set within forest with views over Isabela Island and the

Pacific Ocean. The perfect spot to base yourself as you

explore the islands.


SOpening in March 2015, Scalasia is a luxury tented camp


CaSa de uCo wine reSort & SPa,

mendoza, argentina

Extensive glass gives light and incredible panoramic vistas

across the vineyards and Uco Valley. Solar panels and

grassy roofs contrast with the sleek interior. But make

no mistake the focus here is entirely on superb wine and

gastronomy. Word is this is where the top chefs are heading

for their precious time out.

18 days from £5,495 pp including flightsgastronomy. Word is this is where the top chefs are heading

CHitwa CHitwa tented CamP,

SoutH aFriCa

Due to open this year and one of the only tented camps in the

Kruger, we predict great things. With a dash of Chitwa style and

wonderfully positioned at the crossing of two river beds at Sabi

Sands, making it superb for wildlife viewing, it is set to be the

most exciting camp South Africa has seen in years.


anda, BoHol ProvinCe, PHiliPPineS

A small coastal village on the eastern side of Bohol

Island, Anda is the place to go now. Stay at the 16

roomed beach resort of Amun Ini for fantastic

snorkelling or reef diving. Twin Bohol with the nearby

cosmopolitan Dumaguete.


raaS kangra valley: india – oPenS in SPring 2015On our wish list – set within 19 acres in a truly magical setting in the lower Himalayas. A sister property to the wonderful Raas, Jodhpur.

8 | steppes traveller // JaNUarY 2015 0843 634 2778 // www.steppestravel.com | 9

Space travel J a r r o d k y t e

n o r t h w e S t a r g e n t i n a

for tHose sUrroUNded BY coNcrete aNd tHe clUtter

of coNsUmerIsm, space Is a commodItY wortH

travellING for


Space is a commodity worth travelling for. The emptiness of a desert or a savannah reawakens a part of the brain. Such was the case

for me travelling across the puna in North West Argentina in the region of Salta. The skies are big and blue and the horizons untouched by human intervention. The landscape is unlike anything I have ever seen.

Lava cones as black as stout float like mirages on vast white oceans of salt; sedimentary ribbons of sandstone and quartz stretch out like giant bacon rashers across the never ending horizon; sand glistens on top of gigantic stacks of granite like freshly fallen, alpine snow and ebony rocks of basalt sit like colossal burnt croutons, dropped onto the puna floor. Pachamama, Goddess of the Andes has found her muse in the puna and has produced a masterpiece of breathtaking beauty.

I try to convey my sense of wonderment to my guide Fabrizio but become tongue-tied. He laughs, “You’re not the first to be lost for words and you won’t be the last – just wait until you see the pumice stone fields.” As we approach Campo de Piedra Pomez, astonishment again strikes me dumb. Ivory-coloured pumice stones stand like giant pavlovas, whipped

into twists by the wind and toasted by an unrelenting sun. I climb on top of the flattest, highest rock I can see, being careful not to break the honeycomb structure and try to look beyond the heat haze for signs of life. The panorama is as remarkable for what isn’t visible as what is.

It is confounding that such a seemingly malevolent land can provide enough sustenance for life to survive but underground springs called vegas sustain grasses and other vegetation, which in turn feed the hardy vicunas and guanacos. Bonsai-like bushes known locally as tola, bleached bone-white by the sun, provide fuel for the hardy human settlers who choose to make the puna their home. People like Dona Carina, a septuagenarian who lives alone on her simple estancia at Oasis Antofallita, 4,200 metres above sea level.

Remote takes on a whole new meaning in this part of the world but choosing to make the salt flats of Antofalla and Aricaro her only neighbours is by no means a sign of misanthropy. Far from it - when we turn up unannounced she chats, giggles and holds court gleefully and noticeably flirts with Fabrizio, our guide. They laugh together

without inhibition and with open affection he tells me the story of this remarkable woman. How she loves the land of her ancestors and takes strength from the solitude; how her brother built a small house on the oasis, next door to her but she chose not to speak to him; how she is making provision to secure a future for the smallholding after her death; and how she has a younger man drop in to her help her with the chores – “he is her helper 360 degrees” he laughs, with a glint in his eye. Dona Carina shakes my hand and wishes me a safe journey. For Fabrizio, she opens her arms and gives him a warm embrace. As we climb out of the oasis in our 4x4s, Dona Carina’s estancia quickly becomes a dot in the distance, swamped by the magnitude of the surrounding terrain.

The landscape is harsh and the environment is hostile. The air is devoid of moisture and thin on oxygen while the dust stings and the wind bites hard. Yet in spite of this, the puna is soul touchingly beautiful and it would take a heart of granite not to feel moved by its stark splendour.

11 dayS from £3,870pp inCLuding fLightS


“I trY to coNveY mY seNse of woNdermeNt to mY GUIde faBrIzIo BUt Become toNGUe-tIed”


Japanm e m o r i e S o f a g e i S h a p a u L C r a v e n



an all-ConSuming and anCient trade tHat takes INcredIBle dedIcatIoN, streNGtH of mINd, aNd BodY

It may sound clichéd but I felt quite emotional at my evening with a Geisha or Geiko as they are known in Kyoto. The word consists of two

kanji, gei meaning art and sha meaning person, thus literally ‘performing artist’.

To be precise it was with a Maiko, a Geiko in training. A Maiko is generally aged between 15 and 20 years old and it takes five years training to become a fully-fledged Geiko. These first years are spent living in an okiya with their surrogate ‘mother’, who will support them and loan them all their kimonos, many of which have been handed down through generations and can cost tens of thousands of pounds.

When a Maiko becomes a Geiko it is known as the changing of the collar. A first year Maiko will wear a red embroidered collar showing under her kimono and as their experience grows this collar will be slowly covered with white silk embroidery until after five years it is completely white. Other more subtleties are in their makeup.

As I was shown to a room covered with the traditional tatami flooring I felt a real sense of ceremony and occasion, and if I am honest a little nervous. My nerves made me feel awkward, ill at ease as food was served and drinks poured. At first, conversation was stilted but slowly the mood relaxed and was more revealing.

“How many Maiko are there in Kyoto?” I asked.“About 60 Maiko and 180 Geiko. The oldest is

90 years of age and still entertaining.”“Is it hard work?”“My day is taken up with lessons.”“Is it lonely being a Maiko?” I asked. During

these years no mobile phones or computers are allowed in their lives.

“You get used to it,” was her reply. “I do miss my friends and family,” she added with candour.

“Why is only your bottom lip painted,” I asked in an attempt to change the subject.

“This shows that I am only in my first year of training.” She told me. But then she continued excitedly, “In one month I will be able to paint my top lip too.”

There was obvious pride in reaching this milestone but so too an expectation and pressure. It is an all-consuming and ancient trade that takes incredible dedication, strength of mind, and body.

And self-sacrifice. Destined for a life alone, this is a huge decision for a young girl to take - no boyfriends or husbands are allowed in the world of a Geisha. I asked the young Maiko if she enjoyed her job and would make the decision to become a Geiko at the end of her training. She was suitably coy and her ‘mother’ said they hoped so as she was one of the best with wonderful skills.

“I enjoy dancing the most’’ she said.This was evident later when she performed two

beautiful dances with grace, fluidity and delicate use of her flowing kimono. I realised how much of an art form it really is. It was mesmerising.

In spite of the beauty of the dance, even the whole experience of being entertained, it seems that the world of the Geisha is changing as there are now fewer private clients willing to pay the charges to be entertained by Geisha. I felt all the more privileged to have glanced into the world of this ancient and still authentic art.

11 daYs from £2,495 pp INclUdING flIGHts & GeIsHa performaNce


F l y I n g S a F a r I S


BotSwanaokavango delta By HeliCoPterExperience the sensational perspective of the Okavango Delta from the air. Your pilots will know exactly where to find the Delta’s prolific wildlife and with the option of taking the side doors off the helicopter, this trip is perfect for budding photographers.10 March, 9 April, 19 May 20159 days from £4,740 pp including flights.

remote IS Somewhere that IS IncreaSIngly dIFFIcult to FInd. travel wIth uS to FInd the SpaceS In between.

kenya, tanzania & rwanda ultimate eaSt aFriCa The best of East Africa in two weeks: from the mighty migrations in Kenya through to the misty mountains and lush forests of Rwanda. Fly into the Masai Mara and search for big cats and game before heading south to the Serengeti for yet more spectacular wildlife. This trip concludes in Rwanda with a trek to see the mountain gorillas.14 days from £8,445 pp including flights. Gorilla permits available on request at £500 per permit.

Other flying safaris include the Democratic Republic of Congo, Uganda, Kimberley & Top End in Australia and British Colombia. Call us on 0843 634 2778 to find out more.

Brazil Pantanal By PlaneOne of nature’s last frontiers and the largest freshwater wetland area in the world. A haven for wildlife with hundreds of bird species, mammals and reptiles including giant otter, monkey, ocelot, jaguar, the maned wolf and millions of caiman. Explore one of the world’s most bio-diverse landscapes with experienced guides, travelling on foot, by boat and on horseback. 9 days from £4,995 including flights.


CamBodiatemPleS By HeliCoPterFor a bird’s eye view of Angkor Wat at sunset and Cambodia’s captivating places without the demanding drives, see this enigmatic country by air. Fly over the temples of Banteay Chhmar and Koh Ker and skim the peaks of the Cardamom mountains before heading to the coast. End your journey with a couple of nights at the luxurious private island hideaway, Song Saa.9 days from £10,395 pp including flights, (based on 4 people travelling).

PaPua new guineainto tHe dePtHSThe epitome of wild and raw. Explore remote jungles by helicopter and fly into Goroka for the rugged Highland mountains and mystical traditions of the Melpa people. Colourful tribal dances and spectacular headdresses greet you as well as dazzling birds of paradise of the Sepik River. Discover dozens of dive sites in the blue waters of the Solomon Sea and the calm tropical fjords.16 days from £8,495 pp including flights, (based on 4 people travelling).

indiain tHe land oF tHe tigerSWe have chartered a Cessna Grand Caravan so that you can now fly between Bandhavgarh and Kanha, giving maximum time on safari and minimal time in transit. Escorted by a naturalist, the emphasis will be on unrushed game drives in search of tiger and other wildlife. We can also arrange a full day’s permit allowing for unrestricted access to tiger hot spots when the park’s other vehicles have all returned to their lodges.5 April & 8 April 201510 days from £4,645 pp including flights.

Other flying safaris include the Democratic Republic of Congo, Uganda, Kimberley & Top End in Australia and British Colombia. Call us on 0843 634 2778 to find out more.


Bushmen, Baobabs & BlissbotSwana. it’S not untiL you Start fLying over the vaSt panorama of nothing that you fuLLy reaLiSethe remoteneSS and vaStneSS of the afriCan buSh.Story by niCk Laing



It’s not until you start flying over the vast panorama of nothing that you fully realise the remoteness and vastness of the African bush.

We touched down at Jack’s Camp, a collection of luxury tents set up by the legendary crocodile hunter Jack Bousfield, in the 70s which lie on the edge of the Makgadikgadi Salt pans.We were met by Chaba, who had swapped a suit and tie and office in the Botswana Ministry of Agriculture for dreadlocks, safari gear and a permanent grin. What a great guy. His scientific background gave him an insight into animal behaviour that was both informative and infectious. For George, my nine year old, it was love at first sight.We stayed at San Camp, a short drive from Jack’s. Large mosquito-proof tents built on polished wooden platforms. Four poster beds, rugs on the floor, a huge wooden flushing loo, power shower, fluffy towels and bottles of smelly things. Meals around a table set for 12, Bushmen artefacts in show cases behind. Delicious food, fresh bread every day and a bar of formidable variety.An unforgettable morning spent with a small group of habituated meerkats as they emerged from their burrows, using our shoulders or heads as look out vantage points. An afternoon with the indigenous Kalahari Bushmen learning just a little of how they survive in such a hostile wilderness and then it was off on quad bikes across the salt pans following a single set of tyre marks. The odd ostrich, a few birds, but otherwise nothing to see, but the exhilaration

was infectious. It is not for everyone. Thumbs got tired, we got very, very dusty and it was a long day. A perfect lunch of salade nicoise emerged from a cool box and at around 3pm we arrived at what is termed the Lost Island of Baobabs. (Did you know Baobabs are a succulent and not a tree?). Bedrolls with two hot water bottles were laid out under the stars, a bucket shower open to the wilds behind a tree and a long drop loo. Dinner under the stars on a white tablecloth and once again delicious food and fresh bread, produced from an open fire. As we lay in bed looking up at the vast canopy of stars above there were whispered discussions as to whether the call in the distance had been lion or ostrich. To the untrained ear it could have been either…Back to San Camp for a night, clothes washed and pressed within 24 hours (they needed it!) and a flight to Moremi game reserve where a mobile tented camp had been set up for us. Smaller tents but with proper beds, showers and yet again flushing loos (how do they do it in the middle of nowhere?), hyenas walking through the camp at night and lions calling. This is the real safari as it used to be. Why would anyone want to stay within the confines of a lodge where you are isolated from the raw reality of the bush? I wonder if it will last or will the pressure of fussy tourists confine the experience to the history books. I hope not.

11 dayS From £7,995 PP inCluding FligHtS BaSed on 4 PeoPle travelling


We were met by Chaba, who had swappedasuitandtieandofficein the Botswana Ministry of Agriculture for dreadlocks, safari gear and a permanent grin.


To mark our 25th anniversary milestone we set up the Steppes Charitable Foundation, created to help people in

some of the most remote areas of the world.

Overseas we support War Child, which provides life-changing help to the most vulnerable children whose families, communities and schools have been torn apart by war. We were delighted to present them recently with a cheque for £7,000 to contribute towards their funds.

Other worldwide charities we support are Restless Development which helps educate young people so they can take a leadership role in addressing the most urgent issues facing their countries and the world. And Send a Cow which tackles poverty in farming families in Africa where 70% rely on their land to feed families. Farmers work with farmers and learn together how to make a living from the land.

We also think it important to support charities within our community and thus have recently donated £5,000 to both Home-Start Cotswolds which provides friendship and practical help for young families to help them cope with the stresses and strains of life and The Churn Project helping a breadth of people in the community with a variety of much-needed services from older people to the unemployed.

To date Steppes Travel has raised over £1 million for conservation, environmental and humanitarian projects.

Nick Laing (Steppes Chairman): “We need to educate our children now to become custodians of the future, to respect the world we live in and to take ownership on how the world might evolve. In my lifetime I have seen the world evolve and open up. Sadly not always for the good, and remote regions are becoming increasingly vulnerable.”

When you book your holiday with Steppes you can be sure to travel responsibly, respecting other cultures and making a difference.

our goal: to PreServe, ConServe and eduCate.

Making a difference


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0843 634 2778 // WWW.STEPPESTRAVEL.COM | 27

In 1845 explorer Sir John Franklin set sail with 129 men and two British ships to chart the Northwest Passage in the Canadian Arctic, to find a sea route from the Atlantic to the Pacific. They never returned. Legend has it the sailors on board the HMS Erebus and HMS Terror, resorted to cannibalism after the ships became ice-bound in the Victoria Strait in the Arctic territory of Nunavut. The search for Franklin’s expedition has been one of the largest and longest in history. Clues have emerged over the years, including the 1980’s discovery of three mummified bodies buried at their camp, however, no sign of either ship had ever been discovered. Until now.

In September last year I was delighted to arrange for a client to join an expedition to Canada in search of Franklin’s lost ships. Sailing on board the ice-strengthened vessel Akademik Sergey Vavilov, the voyage followed the fabled route focusing on the Victoria Strait where historians felt there was the best chance of discovering any evidence of the ships themselves. The conditions were not favourable with ice making access to some of the channels very tricky. However with a determination that Franklin himself would have been proud of on 9th September 2014, nearly 170 years after the original expedition embarked, Canadian divers finally found the remains of one of the doomed vessels.

Using remotely operated underwater technology to locate the ship, the team were excited to see that the wooden vessel has remained largely intact: the main mast had sheared off and the ship was resting upright on the sea bed only 11 metres below the surface. Myths surrounding the Franklin expedition have helped make the vessels among the most

sought-after prizes in marine archaeology. Stephen Harper, Canada’s Prime Minister said, “Finding the first vessel will no doubt provide the momentum – or wind in our sails – necessary to locate its sister ship and find out even more about what happened to the Franklin Expedition and crew.”

John Geiger, CEO of The Royal Canadian Geographical Society who was on board as a member of the Victoria Strait Expedition said “Erebus was one of the great exploration ships of its era, of any era. To find it in such an incredible state of preservation represents a great moment for Canada, for Britain, and for those throughout the world with an interest in geography and exploration. Franklin was based aboard Erebus, that ship is where he lived and likely where he died. It was at the very centre of this great historical mystery. The stunning condition of the ship and the artefacts represent a global treasure.”

Experts believe the crews abandoned the two ships in an ill-fated bid to find help after both ships became locked in ice near King William Island. The remains of the crew were hard to find because they wandered for hundreds of miles over the ice.

The sea crossing was only successfully made 58 years later, much further north. However the original search expeditions in the 19th century helped open up and map parts of the Canadian Arctic traversed today.

NORTH WEST PASSAGE VOYAGE15 DAYS FROM £7,730 PP*

*Excluding flights available on request

FROZEN IN TIME BY SUE GRIMWOOD


FalklandSSoutH georgia & antarCtiCa 24 daYs from £10,150 pp* *exc flights, flights available on request.


frozen planet

Sue grimwood

Whilst David Attenborough might be a genius there is no substitute for the real thing.

Experiencing Antarctica first-hand gives you a sense of the smell, sounds and above all, scale. Penguin poo has a particular perfume. The honking bray of penguins, the shrill party whistles of young chicks trying to find their voice. The bleating, mewing, strangulated cries of a crèche of young fur seal pups. The deep visceral gurgling of the stomachs of elephant seals. The staggering size of icebergs, the overwhelming numbers of penguins.

This area of the world equates to sensory overload. The weather, the seas, the scenery, the marine life, the bird life, the colours and the contrasts. You scour your memory database for superlatives, and constantly reach for your camera but are never quite able to capture the visceral experience.

The on board expedition staff are key to a successful Antarctic journey. Their knowledge and experience will get you ashore when the weather is challenging and provide alternatives when the weather is inclement. They are on hand to give insight into the wildlife, geology and history of this unique part of the world, which vastly enriches the experience.

Moreover the expedition team give lectures throughout your time onboard. But isn’t it supposed to be a holiday I hear you protest. I felt the same way but unlike university, I found myself with a 100% attendance record and my mind reeling with new found knowledge and trivia. The

daily intake of krill of a blue whale would feed a human for four years. Snow falling on Antarctica takes 100,000 years to ‘flow’ to the coast before calving off as an iceberg, and worryingly, if Antarctica’s ice sheets melted, the world’s oceans would rise by 65 metres.

The choice of ship is important, but for me, what’s crucial is the itinerary. My preference is for one that includes South Georgia not only for the history of the island and Shackleton but also for the scale and wildlife. The huge king penguin colonies at Salisbury Plains and St Andrews Bay are humbling, the scenery is mesmeric. The playfulness of young fur seals cavorting will bring a smile to your face. Above all the experience is unparalleled.


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Beyond tHe tigerS oF tadoBaTracking tigers on foot has to be one of the most thrilling wildlife experiences. Tadoba and Satpura National Parks are areas in which you can still do this. Take it from us, when you hear the undergrowth crack, the alarm call of the langur monkeys and a flash of stripe you will feel just like Mowgli.

10 daYs from £2,795 pp INclUdING flIGHts

City walkS, delHi & mumBaiExperience a diverse and colourful culture, from ancient to modern, by strolling through streets and gardens on a heritage walk. Joined by one of our hand-picked guides, these cities seen through the eyes of a local will spring to life.


village walk, SHakti 360 letiCompellingly beautiful, high in the Himalayas, stay in one of just four stone cottages as a base for village visits and moderate mountain walks to hill treks. The main lodge, as its name suggests, has incredible panoramic views. A peaceful India few get to see.


kerala, SoutH indiaThe freedom of cycling around the laidback countryside of Cochin is exhilarating. Peddling through paddy fields and villages, the smiles you will encounter make an unforgettable experience.


raJaStHan By royal aPPointmentRide a Royal Enfield up towards Monsoon Palace for a taster session of this iconic motorbike in action. Take tea with a Maharaja for a fully regal experience.


t h e r e i S n o b e t t e r w a y t o e x p e r i e n C e t h i S C o u n t r y t h a n o n f o o t . i t w i L L r e w a r d y o u


t h e r e i S n o b e t t e r w a y t o e x p e r i e n C e t h i S C o u n t r y t h a n o n f o o t . i t w i L L r e w a r d y o u


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EpicJ o u r n e y SlatIN amerIca


ePiC adventureS

Argentina Chile & AntartcticaNorthwest Argentina’s Alta Plano is a dramatic expanse of ochre desert studded with cacti where you can enjoy the exclusive pleasure of landscape. Vast scenic vistas surround you as you cross the border into the huge Atacama Desert and fly down to Pucon for Chilean Lake District’s beautiful glacial lakes, snow-capped volcanoes, hot springs and national parks. At the windswept Torres del Paine NP see the striking electric blue icebergs before taking a two hour flight to Antarctica for a five day expeditionary polar voyage.

31 dayS from £12,750 pp inCLuding fLightS


a mayan odySSey

Ancient Civilisation of Mexico, Guatemala & HondurasAncient temple paintings at Bonampak and Yaxchilan, Palenque’s ruins nestled amidst steep thickly forested hills and the immense Sumidero Canyon are all highlights in Mexico. In Guatemala, meet traditional highland communities and see the spectacular Lake Atitlan. Visit the Mesoamerican archaeological site of Yaxha and the largest pre Columbian Mayan site of Tikal. Sail the beautiful Rio Dulce into Honduras for the pinnacle of the Mayan empire – the iconic site of Copan.


HigH & dry

Peru, Bolivia & ChileStarting in Peru’s Sacred Valley, see magnificent citadels etched out of terraced hillsides. From Cusco travel on to Puno, sail across Lake Titicaca, surrounded by the dramatic Cordillera Real mountain range. Soak up the colonial atmosphere of Sucre’s plazas, visit Potosi, experience the solitude of the Salar de Uyuni salt flats and camp out under the stars next to your airstream campervan. A little luxury comes in the form of a private guide and chef. End in the Atacama, Chile, with the El Tatio Geysers and Moon Valley.


ultimate wildliFe

Pantanal & GalapagosTwo of nature’s greatest phenomenons in two weeks. The Pantanal, one of nature’s last frontiers, is a haven for wildlife with hundreds of bird species, mammals and reptiles including caiman, Giant Otter, monkey, ocelot, the maned wolf and the elusive jaguar. Stay in small family-run farms and explore with experienced guides. From the expanse of Brazil to the Galapagos. Boarding a small yacht, set sail around these extraordinary islands. Opportunities abound on land to photograph unique species close up but do spend time in the sea - kayak, snorkel and swim alongside playful sea lions, watch graceful green turtles glide by and penguins zip past.



privateC H a r t e r S

indoneSia

AlexaA traditional teak phinisi lovingly restored to a superb standard, this stylish yacht cuts a dash through the Indonesian waters. Silk rugs, antique artefacts and contemporary art add detail and with a private crew just for two Alexa makes the perfect honeymoon cruise. Spend time whale watching, beachcombing and perhaps seeing a Komodo dragon.

15 daYs from £7,195 INclUdING flIGHts

egyPt

Nile CruiseThe wind in the sails of a dahabiya is surely one of the most romantic ways to travel the Nile. With the freedom to moor up when and where you want it is a great way to explore ancient ruins, temples and villages. An unrushed and authentic Nile experience.

8 daYs from £1,395 pp* fUll Board INclUdING flIGHts aNd excUrsIoNs

Panama

San Blas Islands Sailing by private catamaran is the way to unlock the magical San Blas Archipelago. Snorkel in crystal clear waters and discover the captivating culture of the indigenous Kuna Indians. Dine on freshly caught lobster and learn about island life whilst hiking in the rainforest with a Kuna guide.



turkey

Ecce Navigo Bathed in warm Mediterranean sunshine from May to October Turkey’s tranquil and historic Lycian Coast is best explored by traditional gulet. Explore sheltered coves, ancient ruins and charming local villages, before cooling off in the turquoise waters.

8 daYs from £3,575 pp* fUll Board INclUdING flIGHts

italian CoaSt

Ombre BluWith three private double cabins, this stylish catamaran is perfect for families or a group of friends wanting to explore the Amalfi Coast, Sardinia or Sicily. The owners are your hosts – Melissa’s sumptuous Italian food and Francesco’s diving and water activities make for an unforgettable trip.

7 daYs from £3,875 pp for a famIlY of 4 INclUdING flIGHts

Brazilian amazon

TupaiuWe are proud to have created a private boat-based itinerary that explores parts of the Amazon undiscovered by tourism. Travelling aboard the five cabin Tupaiu, a traditional Amazonian vessel, you can expect prolific wildlife, remote beaches and fascinating tribal communities.

10 daYs from £4,895 pp INclUdING flIGHts**

maldiveS

Soneva in AquaAs pioneers in barefoot luxury, Soneva Fushi have always led the way. In February 2015 they take this concept further with Soneva in Aqua their new yacht combining the iconic resort’s services with the autonomy of a private charter. Freedom to explore reefs and less visited atolls, cruising around the islands, stopping at dive sites, dining on deck and indulging in spa treatments. Two cabins, one new standard in laidback luxury.

10 daYs comBING Boat aNd vIlla from £8,295 pp INclUdING flIGHts

*based on 10 passengers **based on 7 passengers

40 | STEPPES TRAVELLER // JANUARY 2015

The American chef Anthony Bourdain recently travelled to Iran to shoot an episode for his CNN travel show “Anthony

Bourdain: Parts Unknown”. The Islamic Republic surprised him in every way, and he describes the country as “extraordinary, heartbreaking, confusing, inspiring and very, very different than the Iran I expected.” Iran is different, and Bourdain’s was my reaction too when I first visited about eight

storydifferentA differentA different

IRAN BY SYLVIE FRANQUET


storydifferent

years ago. And I now know that it is just about everyone’s reaction.

The one thing that keeps surprising is the people. Wherever you go, Iranians are friendly, welcoming, educated and really happy to talk about everything. Even mullahs in mosques may want to know how you find Iran, or ask if they can help in making your stay easier. Taarof, a very Iranian form of civility for politeness and mutual respect, is still an important part of the culture.

I was and remain astonished to figure that so many things have come from Persia or Iran: the wind mill, the water wheel, the etymological origin of the word ‘paradise’, the first banker’s cheque, the first international charter of human rights, the first postal service, Persian cats, the tulip, the three Magi, the algorithm, the idea of heaven and hell…to name but a few.

However most of all, it is the wealth of architecture, the perfection of proportions of the pre-Islamic and Islamic buildings, the patterned brickwork, the floral motifs or persianesques, and the variety of stunning calligraphy, that catches my eye and steals my heart. Iran ranks seventh in the world in terms of possessing historical and cultural monuments, and it is recognized by UNESCO as being one of the cradles of

civilisation. From 5000BCE to the present, from garden pavilions and mosques to “some of the most majestic structures the world has ever seen,” Iranian architecture has achieved a very individual style: a distinct feeling for simple form and grand scale; a structural inventiveness in vault and dome construction, and a genius for decoration.

Pasargadae set the standard for the grand style in which the Achaemenids built their garden cities, but it is in Persepolis that we get a true feel for Darius the Great’s ambitions. This was to be an earthly version of the ancient mythic City of Heaven. The Friday Mosque in Isfahan is no doubt one of the greatest buildings in the world, revealing more than 900 years of Persian Islamic architecture. Equally the Friday Mosque in Yazd, although Mongol Ilkhanid and built over a Sassanian fire temple, reveals all the Persian elements from the luscious mosaic decoration to the taut iwan. A grandeur of architecture that reflects Iran’s majestic landscapes. The culmination of it all is Safavid Isfahan, with the great Maydan (square) called Naqsh-i-Jahan (Reflection of the World). This wonderful square, unique in the world, contains a galaxy of splendid buildings: The Masjid-i-Shah (now Imam Mosque), the Shaykh Lutf’ Allah

mosque, and the Ali Qapu Palace, one more superlative than the other. It is in the Lutf’ Allah Mosque that even Robert Byron in his Road to Oxiana, who was clearly not easily pleased, has to admit: “ I have never encountered splendor of this kind before. Other interiors came into my mind as I stood there, to compare it with: Versailles, or the porcelain rooms at Schönbrunn, or the Doge’s Palace, or St Peter’s. All are rich; but none so rich.”

13 dayS tailor made From £2,875 PP inCluding FligHtS

tHe aCHaemenid Heritageled By Sylvie Franquet15 dayS From £3,455 PP exCluding FligHtS (flights can be arranged on request)


UltimateWildlife

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01 | MarineFrom humpbacks and whale sharks to pelagic birds and dazzling underwater coral gardens, the world’s oceans are a playground for wildlife enthusiasts, both above and below the sea.

Watch southern right whales calve in the Indian Ocean and humpback whales calving off the shores of Madagascar.

Search for elusive dugong off Pemba, swim alongside whale sharks off the coast of Djibouti, dive for hammerheads in Mozambique.

Explore the coastline of Namibia by kayak, cage dive for great whites in South Africa for the ultimate great white shark encounter and follow the sardine run off the coast of Durban.

tranS - aFriCa ultimate marine tour 7 CountrieS in 24 dayS From £17,650 PP inC FligHtSkeNYa, dJIBoUtI, zaNzIBar, madaGascar, NamIBIa, soUtH afrIca aNd mozamBIqUe.

02 | Big cats A pride of lions at sunrise, a leopard stalking its prey or a cheetah mum protecting her cubs – all are quintessential African experiences. Full of charisma and the embodiment of power and guile, see these iconic felines in their natural habitat, accompanied by expert guides giving insight into big cat conservation.

Track the black-maned lions of the Kalahari, search for the famous leopards of Londolozi, South Africa and meet with the experts at AfriCat in Namibia to learn about cheetah and leopard conservation.

Visit Duba Plains in the Okavango Delta, home to a pride of buffalo hunting lions made famous by the research of the Jouberts.

Track lions with Samburu and Masai tribes in Kenya and the Hadzabe tribe in the Ngorongoro region of Tanzania.

ultimate Big Cat exoduS6 CountrieS in 25 dayS From £22,300 PP inC FligHtSBotswaNa, soUtH afrIca, NamIBIa, zImBaBwe, keNYa aNd taNzaNIa.

03 | PrimatesSteppes has been organising trips to see the world’s primates for over 20 years including tours for ITV and BBC, CNN film crews and have even helped habituate the Nkuringo gorillas with the Ugandan Wildlife Authority.

Travel into the recently re-opened Kahuzi Blega national park in Eastern DRC for encounters with eastern lowland gorillas.

Stay at Greystokes in Mahale, home to one of the largest populations of wild chimpanzees in the world.

Helicopter over the Virungas, trek to see mountain gorillas and meet with the Mountain Gorilla Vet Project.

Track lemurs in the rainforests of Andasibe, Madagascar and explore the Simien Mountains of Ethiopia, home to gelada baboons.ultimate PrimateS tour 5 CountrieS in 26 dayS From £17, 995 PP inC FligHtSdemocratIc repUBlIc of coNGo, taNzaNIa, rwaNda, madaGascar aNd etHIopIa.

04 | ElephantsIntelligent, curious and intuitive with close family bonds – there is something compelling and captivating about seeing elephants close up. On this month long odyssey you will have plenty of time to see different sub species who have adapted to their diverse environments and also witness elephant conservation first hand.

Travel into the recently re-opened Kahuzi Biega national park in Eastern DRC for encounters with eastern lowland gorillas.

Track desert elephants along Namibia’s Skeleton Coast and glimpse forest elephants by moonlight in the Congo.

Walk hand in trunk, ride an elephant and become part of the herd in Botswana.

In Kenya meet the esteemed researcher Ian Douglas Hamilton assisting in elephant research and also visit the Daphne Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage.Join tHe Herd: ultimate elePHant enCounter5 CountrieS in 31 dayS From £16,560 PP BaSed on 2 PeoPle travelling inC FligHtSNamIBIa, soUtH afrIca, BotswaNa, keNYa aNd coNGo.

Ultimate wildlife


On L

ocation

AL ASkA

inSiderS guide to tHe inSide PaSSageBy roxy dukeS

Gazing across the limpid, fathomless waters of Frederick Sound, one of the world’s richest feeding grounds for humpback whales, these great behemoths had already announced themselves by the oily jets of their ‘blows’ still dancing in the moist air. Needing no second invitation, I climbed aboard the zodiac, hoping for a closer encounter.

This was my first exposure to Alaska, and to be honest I was still grappling with the sheer scale and vastness of this untamed wilderness. A land in which tooth, talon and claw continue to prevail, and man’s foothold along this labyrinthine coast remains tenuous. Lured by Alaska’s treasury of natural riches – dramatic landscapes, world beating whale and bear populations and towering glaciers – it had already been an eventful first few days on board Safari Explorer.

With the outboard engine cut and the zodiac now bobbing gently, the wheezing trumpet of the whales exhalations as they surfaced drifted audibly across the stillness of the bay. They seemed all around us. We were specifically on the trail of two adult humpbacks who we had watched gracefully turn tail and slide down into the impenetrable depths just a few minutes earlier and now hoped would re-surface nearby. Feet shuffled impatiently, hushed conversations and almost tense excitement as we waited.

And then without warning, rising up almost directly beneath us, 40 tonnes of surfacing cetacean erupted with a great triumphal bugle just feet from the edge of our rubber boat, scaring the hell out of all on board. The joker in the pod and clearly enjoying his practical joke, the humpback then circled around us, before sliding away into the inky depths. A rare fleeting encounter. A memory stored forever. The very essence of this rugged land: wild, beautiful, unpredictable.

The Russians must be truly gutted having sold it to America for just two cents an acre in 1867.

10 dayS from £4,350 pp inCLuding fLightS


“witHout warning, riSing uP almoSt direCtly BeneatH uS, 40 tonneS oF SurFaCing CetaCean eruPted”

mountainS & bearS13 dayS from £4,650 pp inCLuding fLightS


India: Flying Safariin the Land of Tigers

Led by Kartikeya Chauhan5 - 14 April 20158 - 17 April 2015

from £3,995 pp*

Steppes have chartered a Cessna to allow you to fly between Bandhavgarh and Kanha, maximising your time in the parks with emphasis on unrushed

game drives in search of tiger and other wildlife.

Galapagos: Photography Tour

Led by David Plummer7 - 17 October 2015

from £3,550 pp*

Leave the zoom lens at home, you won’t need it. Wildlife here is as curious as

you are and there will be plenty of photo opportunities to capture unique species

close up.

Canada: Great Bear Rainforest Cruise

Led by Sue Flood29 August - 7 September

from £3,795 pp*

A luxurious yacht, grizzlies catching salmon and ghost like spirit bears, all

set against a beautiful backdrop. Add to that humpback whales and this is a land

and sea safari of stellar proportions.

*Prices are excluding flights, flights can be arranged on request, do contact us for a quote.

WildlifeGroup Tours


Indonesia: Big 5 Tour

Led by Dr Claire Oelrichs12 - 24 June 2015

6 - 18 September 2015

from £3,145 pp*

Explore the wilds of Borneo, Sumatra and Komodo searching for endangered wildlife such as Rhino and Elephants.

Walk in tiger territory, track orang-utans, swim with rays and follow

Komodo dragons.

Brazil: Amazon Jaguar Expedition

Led by Expert Guides26 May - 7 June 2015

from £4,695 pp*

Mamiraua reserve has one of the highest densities of jaguars in the world. Join researchers to track these elusive cats and help fund jaguar monitoring projects, conservation and education

within the local communities.

South Africa: Rhino Conservation

Project

Led by vet Dr Peter Rogers23 - 29 May 2015

29 August - 4 September 2015

from £1,745 pp*

Get hands-on experience of rhino conservation, darting, notching and

micro-chipping wild rhinos with guided wildlife viewing and walks in the

Greater Kruger.

WildlifeGroup Tours


Romania: Transylvania,

The Land Beyond the Forest

Led by Lucy Abel Smith16 - 23 May 2015

from £1,560 pp*

Majestic fortified churches, traditional Saxon villages and medieval citadels.

An array of cultural diversity, architectural styles and traditions is

evident in this fledgling kingdom.

Cuba: The Havana Biennial

Led by Sussette Martinez Montero

21 - 29 May 2015

from £2,595 pp*

Explore the seductive city of Havana, host to a vibrant art festival. Cutting edge contemporary Cuban art and

artists mingle with the UNESCO sites of Old Havana for both a colourful and

cultural journey.

Uzbekistan: Beyond the Oxus

Led by Chris Aslan Alexander 3 - 14 April 2015

& 11 - 22 September 2015

from £2,045 pp*

Delight in the art and archaeology of the fabled ancient cities on the Silk

Road. See the iconic turquoise domes of Timurid architecture in Samarkand.

Expert Led Group Tours


Georgia: In-depth

Led by Dr Ian Colvin20 September - 2 October 2015

from £2,115 pp*

Visit Mtskheta, Georgia’s spiritual heart and explore the historical significance

of a Christian Orthodox past. Dramatic mountain scenery, generous

hospitality. Food, wine and song is Caucasian culture at its best.

Israel: Cradle of Christianity

Led by Dr Garth Gilmour1 - 10 September 2015

from £2,625 pp*

Explore a region sacred to the world’s three major monotheistic religions.

Discover Jerusalem’s Temple Mount, the world’s oldest city – Jericho and

Bethlehem’s fabled Church of the Nativity.

*Prices are excluding flights, flights can be arranged on request, do contact us for a quote.

Japan: The Way of the Warrior

Led by Dr Timon Screech21 October - 2 November 2015

from £4,945 pp*

Traditions of the Geisha to uber-modern Tokyo. A two week taster to a country

steeped in ceremony. A unique culture personified by elegant artistry, beautiful

gardens and ancient ways.

Expert Led Group Tours

Laughter is the shortest distance between two peoplev i C t o r b o r g e

Front and back cover ImageS: ladakhI woman, nubra valley, north IndIa © ken kochey

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