İstanbul - dezwerver.nl · a l i ç ) bosphorus (boğaziçi) gülhane park sarayburnu İstanbul...
TRANSCRIPT
“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over.
So go!”
TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Virginia Maxwell
İstanbul
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Contents
Welcome to İstanbul ......4
İstanbul’s Top 10 ............6
What's New ...................13
Need to Know ............... 14
Top Itineraries .............. 16
If You Like ......................18
Month by Month ........... 21
With Kids ...................... 23
Like a Local .................. 24
For Free ........................ 25
Eating ......................... 26Drinking & Nightlife .....................31Shopping ....................34Hamams & Spas ....... 38
Plan Your Trip page 1
Understand İstanbul 175
Survival Guide 197
İstanbul Maps 228
Plan Your Trip 4
Explore İstanbul 40
Transport .................... 198
Directory A–Z ............ 203
Language ................... 208
Index ............................ 219
İstanbul Today ............ 176 History .........................178
Architecture ................186
İstanbul on Page & Screen .........................192
Neighbourhoods at a Glance .......................... 42
Sultanahmet & Around .......................... 44
Bazaar District ............ 83
Western Districts .......102
Beyoğlu ....................... 113
Beşiktaş, Ortaköy & Kuruçeşme .................139
Üsküdar .......................146
Ferry Trips from İstanbul ......................150
Sleeping .....................165
(left) Grand Bazaar p85 Colourful lamps for sale
(above) Beyoğlu p113 Traditional meyhane (Turkish tavern)
(right) Aya Sofya p46 Colourful decoration inside
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Sultanahmet& Around
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Beyoğlup113
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Neighbourhoods at a Glance . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
Sultanahmet & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . .44top sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76Drinking & nightlife . . . . . . . 79Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 80shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81
Bazaar District . . . . . . 83top sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94Drinking & nightlife . . . . . . . 97shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101
Western Districts . . . 102top sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107Eating & Drinking . . . . . . . . 110
Beyoğlu . . . . . . . . . . . 113top sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .115sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .117Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124Drinking & nightlife . . . . . . .131Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 135shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138
Beşiktaş, Ortaköy & Kuruçeşme . . . . . . . 139top sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .141sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143Drinking & nightlife . . . . . . 144Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 144shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145
Üsküdar . . . . . . . . . . . 146sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148Eating & Drinking . . . . . . . . 149
Ferry Trips from İstanbul . . . . . . 150the bosphorus . . . . . . . . . . .151the Golden Horn . . . . . . . . 159princes’ Islands . . . . . . . . . 162
Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . 165
Explore İstanbul
40
aya sofya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46topkapı palace . . . . . . . . . . . 55blue Mosque . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64Istanbul archaeology Museums . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66basilica Cistern . . . . . . . . . . 68Grand bazaar . . . . . . . . . . . . 85süleymaniye Mosque . . . . . 88spice bazaar . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90Kariye Museum (Chora Church) . . . . . . . . . 104İstiklal Caddesi . . . . . . . . . . .115İstanbul Modern . . . . . . . . . .116Dolmabahçe palace . . . . . . .141beylerbeyi palace . . . . . . . . 152Hıdiv Kasrı . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153Rahmi M Koç Museum . . . 159
Aya Sofya .......................... 46
Topkapı Palace ..................53
Blue Mosque..................... 64
Istanbul Archaeology Museums .......................... 66
Basilica Cistern ................ 68
Grand Bazaar ....................85
Süleymaniye Mosque ...... 88
Spice Bazaar .................... 90
Karİye Museum (Chora Church) ...............104
İstiklal Caddesi .................115
İstanbul Modern ...............116
Dolmabahçe Palace .........141
TOP SIGHTSİSTANBUL’S
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U-Bahn
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Shopping
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Eating
CampingSleeping
BuddhistCastleChristianHinduIslamicJewishMonumentMuseum/GalleryRuinWinery/VineyardZooOther Sight
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Diving/Snorkelling
Tourist InformationPost Office
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Map Legend
AreasBoundaries
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Geographic
Transport
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Drinking & Nightlife
Shopping
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Eating
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Sports & ActivitiesSights Routes
İstanbul Maps
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æ Top Sights (p000) ú Eating (p000) Ø Sports & Activities (p000) Aya Sofya....................... B4 Caferağa Medresesi 18 Aya İrini ..........................C4 Basilica Cistern ............. B4 Lokanta & Çay 19 Cağaloğlu Hamamı ....... A3 İstanbul Archaeology Bahçesi.............. (see 24) Museums .................... C3 9 Cihannüma ....................B4 ÿ Sleeping (p000) Topkapı Palace.............. C3 10 Fasuli Lokantaları.......... A2 20 Agora Life Hotel ............ A3
Hafız Mustafa ......(see 10) And Hotel ................(see 9) æ Sights (p000) 11 Hocapaşa Pidecisi......... A2 21 Ayasofya Konakları.......C4 1 Alay Köşkü ..................... B3 12 Karakol Restaurant.......C4 22 Cheers Hostel................B4 2 Caferağa Medresesi ..... B4 13 Konyalı Lokantası.......... A2 23 Neorion Hotel ................ B2 3 Fountain of Sultan Matbah ................. (see 24) 24 Ottoman Hotel Ahmet III......................C4 14 Paşazade........................ B3 Imperial .......................B4 4 Gülhane Park................. B3 15 Sefa Restaurant ............ A4 25 Sirkeci Konak................. B3 5 Imperial Gate.................C4 6 İstanbul Museum of û Drinking & Nightlife(p000) the History of 16 Kybele Cafe....................B4 Science & 17 Set Üstü Çay Bahçesi... D2 Technology in Islam ............................ B2 ý Entertainment (p000) 7 Soğukçeşme Sokak...... C4 Hocapaşa Culture 8 Sublime Porte................ B3 Centre..................(see 11)
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æ Top Sights (p46) ú Eating (p76) Ø Sports & Activities (p82) Aya Sofya....................... B4 Caferağa Medresesi 18 Aya İrini ..........................C4 Basilica Cistern ............. B4 Lokanta & Çay 19 Cağaloğlu Hamamı ....... A3 İstanbul Archaeology Bahçesi.............. (see 24) Museums .................... C3 9 Cihannüma ....................B4 ÿ Sleeping (p168) Topkapı Palace.............. C3 10 Fasuli Lokantaları.......... A2 20 Agora Life Hotel ............ A3
Hafız Mustafa ......(see 10) And Hotel ................(see 9) æ Sights (p69) 11 Hocapaşa Pidecisi......... A2 21 Ayasofya Konakları.......C4 1 Alay Köşkü ..................... B3 12 Karakol Restaurant.......C4 22 Cheers Hostel................B4 2 Caferağa Medresesi ..... B4 13 Konyalı Lokantası.......... A2 23 Neorion Hotel ................ B2 3 Fountain of Sultan Matbah ................. (see 24) 24 Ottoman Hotel Ahmet III......................C4 14 Paşazade........................ B3 Imperial .......................B4 4 Gülhane Park................. B3 15 Sefa Restaurant ............ A4 25 Sirkeci Konak................. B3 5 Imperial Gate.................C4 6 İstanbul Museum of û Drinking & Nightlife (p80) the History of 16 Kybele Cafe....................B4 Science & 17 Set Üstü Çay Bahçesi... D2 Technology in Islam ............................ B2 ý Entertainment (p80) 7 Soğukçeşme Sokak...... C4 Hocapaşa Culture 8 Sublime Porte................ B3 Centre..................(see 11)
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SULTANAHMET & AROUND - SOUTH Map on p232
æ Top Sights (p64) 31 Cocoon.......................................................D5 Blue Mosque............................................. D4 32 Galeri Kayseri .............................................B1
33 Iznik Classics & Tiles................................. E4 æ Sights (p69) 34 Jennifer's Hamam..................................... E5 1 Aya Sofya Tombs ...................................... F2 35 Khaftan ......................................................C5 2 Great Palace Mosaic Museum..................E5 36 Mehmet Çetinkaya Gallery.......................D5 3 Hippodrome...............................................C3 37 Tulu ............................................................B4 4 Kaiser Wilhelm's Fountain ........................D2 38 Yilmaz Ipekçilik..........................................H4 5 Lâle Pastanesi (Pudding Shop)................D2 6 Little Aya Sofya..........................................A6 Ø Sports & Activities (p81) 7 Marmara University Republican 39 Ambassador Spa....................................... D1 Museum ..................................................B4 40 Ayasofya Hürrem Sultan Hamamı........... F2 8 Museum of Turkish & Islamic Arts...........C3 41 İstanbul Walks........................................... C5 9 Nakkaş........................................................C5 42 Les Arts Turcs ........................................... D1 10 Obelisk of Theodosius...............................C4 Müzenin Kahvesi ................................(see 8) 11 Rough-Stone Obelisk ................................C4 43 Urban Adventures..................................... D1 12 Sokollu Şehit Mehmet Paşa Mosque.......A4 13 Sphendone.................................................C5 ÿ Sleeping (p168) 14 Spiral Column ............................................C4 44 Acra Hotel.................................................. F5 15 Tomb of Sultan Ahmet I............................D3 45 Bahaus Hostel ........................................... F4
46 Dersaadet Hotel ........................................D6 ú Eating (p76) 47 Emine Sultan Hotel ...................................D6 16 Ahırkapı Balıkçısı ....................................... F6 48 Erten Konak............................................... E6 17 Balıkçı Sabahattin .....................................G5 49 Grand Peninsula........................................G4 18 Çiğdem Pastanesi ..................................... B1 50 Hanedan Hotel ..........................................G3 19 Cooking Alaturka....................................... F5 51 Hotel Alp ...................................................G3 20 Hafız Mustafa.............................................D2 52 Hotel Empress Zoe ...................................G3 21 Karadeniz Aile Pide ve Kebap Salonu ...... C1 53 Hotel Ibrahim Pasha ................................B4 22 Teras Restaurant...................................... H5 Hotel Nomade ..................................(see 26)
54 Hotel Peninsula .........................................G3 û Drinking & Nightlife (p79) 55 Hotel Şebnem............................................G3 23 Cafe Meşale ...............................................E4 56 Hotel Uyan İstanbul .................................. F3 24 Denizen Coffee ..........................................B4 57 Marmara Guesthouse...............................G3 25 Derviş Aile Çay Bahçesi ............................E3 58 Metropolis Hostel......................................G4 26 Hotel Nomade Terrace Bar....................... D1 59 Motif Apartments......................................G3 27 Yeni Marmara ............................................C6 60 Sarı Konak Hotel ....................................... F5 28 Yeşil Ev ....................................................... F3 61 Sultans Royal Hotel...................................C6
62 Tan Hotel ....................................................C1 þ Shopping (p80) 29 Arasta Bazaar ............................................E4 30 Cankurtaran Produce Market ..................C5
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45 Koç Deri Leather.................. D5 ú Eating (p94) 46 Kurukahveci Mehmet 16 Bahar Restaurant ................ D5 Efendi................................. D3 17 Burç Ocakbaşı ..................... D4 47 Malatya Pazarı ......................E3 18 Dönerci Şahin Usta.............. D5 Mehmet Kalmaz Baharat (see 54) 19 Fes Cafe ................................E5 Muhlis Günbattı ...........(see 17) Fes Cafe ......................(see 29) 48 Sahaflar Çarşısı ................... C5 20 Hamdi Restaurant ............... D2 Serhat Geridönmez.... (see 37) 21 Havuzlu Restaurant............. D4 49 Sevan Bıçakçı........................E5 22 İmren Lokantası....................E7 50 Silk & Cashmere ...................E5 23 Kanaat Fasülyeci ................. C3 51 Silk & Cashmere .................. D5 24 Kara Mehmet ....................... D4 52 Şişko Osman........................ D4 25 Kuru Fasülyeci Erzincanlı 53 Sofa .......................................E5 Ali Baba ............................. C3 54 Ucuzcular Baharat ...............E3 26 Namlı .................................... D2 55 Vakko İndirim........................E3 Nar Lokantası..............(see 30) 56 Yazmacı Necdet Danış........ D4 27 Onur Et Lokantası.................E5
Ø Sports & Activities (p101) û Drinking & Nightlife (p97) 57 Çemberlitaş Hamamı...........E5 28 Erenler Çay Bahçesi ............ D5 58 Gedikpaşa Hamamı............. D6 29 Ethem Tezçakar Kahveci .... D5 30 Kahve Dünyası ......................E5 ÿ Sleeping (p169) 31 Kahve Dünyası ..................... D2 59 Saruhan Hotel...................... D7
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BEYOĞLU - NORTHEAST Map on p236
æ Top Sights (p115) 41 Dogzstar ...................................................... C5 İstiklal Caddesi............................................C5 42 Hazzo Pulo Çay Bahçesi............................ B5
43 Indigo ...........................................................B6 æ Sights (p117) 44 Jolly Joker ................................................... C5 1 Akbank Art Centre......................................D4 45 Kiki................................................................ E5 2 ARTER ..........................................................B7 46 Litera............................................................B6 3 Atatürk Cultural Centre .............................F4 47 Manda Batmaz............................................ B6 4 Atatürk Library............................................G2 Mikla................................................... (see 76) 5 Avrupa Pasajı...............................................B5 48 MiniMüzikHol .............................................. E6 6 Balık Pazarı ..................................................B5 49 Münferit .......................................................C6 7 Çiçek Pasajı .................................................B5 NuTeras ..............................................(see 12) 8 Firuz Ağa Camii ...........................................D6 50 Off Pera........................................................ A6 9 Galatasaray Lycée ......................................C6 51 Perla Kallâvi Nargile Cafe..........................B6 10 Galerı Apel....................................................C6 52 Tek Yön ........................................................ E5 11 Galerı Nev ...................................................B6 53 Urban ........................................................... C5 12 Galerist.........................................................A6 54 White Mill ......................................................E7 13 Pera Museum ..............................................A6 14 Pera Palace Hotel .......................................A7 ý Entertainment (p135) 15 SALT Beyoğlu..............................................B6 55 Garajistanbul...............................................B6 16 Taksim Meydanı..........................................E3 56 Munzur Cafe & Bar..................................... D5
57 Toprak.......................................................... D5 ú Eating (p124) 17 Asmalı Canım Ciğerim ...............................A7 þ Shopping (p136) 18 Brasserie La Brise.......................................A7 58 A La Turca ................................................... D5 19 Changa .........................................................E5 59 Ali Muhıddin Hacı Bekir .............................D4 20 Çokçok .........................................................A6 60 Beyoğlu Olgunlaşma Enstıtüsü ................D4 21 Datlı Maya ....................................................D6 61 Denizler Kitabevi......................................... B7 22 Demeti.......................................................... E7 62 İstanbul Kitapçısı........................................ B6 23 Enstitü ..........................................................A6 63 La Cave Wine Shop ....................................D6 24 Feraye...........................................................C5 64 Leyla Eski Eşya Pazarlama........................D6 25 Gani Gani Şark Sofras................................D5 65 Mariposa.......................................................E7 26 Hacı Abdullah ..............................................C4 66 Mephisto...................................................... C5 27 Jash...............................................................F6 67 Pandora .......................................................D4 28 Kafe Ara........................................................B6 Paşabahçe......................................... (see 73) 29 Kallavi ...........................................................D4 68 Petek Turşuları ........................................... B5 30 Kitchenette ..................................................E4 69 Reşat Balık Market .................................... B5 31 Medı Şark Sofrası........................................D5 70 Robinson Crusoe........................................ B6 32 Meze by Lemon Tree..................................A7 71 Sütte Şarküteri .......................................... B5 33 Midpoint.......................................................B6 72 Tarihi Beyoğlu Ekmek Fırını ..................... B5 Mikla ...................................................(see 76) 73 Tezgah Alley................................................ B7 34 Saray Muhallebicisi.....................................C5 Üç Yıldız Şekerleme .......................... (see 71) Zencefil...............................................(see 35) 35 Zübeyir Ocakbaşı........................................D4 Ø Sports & Activities (p138)
74 Ağa Hamamı ............................................... D5 û Drinking & Nightlife (p131) Cumhuriyet Anıtı (Republic 360....................................................... (see 11) Monument) .....................................(see 16) 36 5 Kat..............................................................E6 Istanbul Culinary Institute............... (see 23) 37 Araf ...............................................................C4 38 Bigudi Cafe ..................................................D4 ÿ Sleeping (p171) 39 Büyük Londra Oteli Bar..............................A6 75 Chambers of the Boheme......................... D5 Cafe Susam .......................................(see 22) 76 Marmara Pera............................................. A6 40 Club 17..........................................................D4 Pera Palace Hotel..............................(see 14)
BEYO
ğLU
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239
BEYOĞLU - SOUTHWEST Map on p240
æ Top Sights (p116) 33 Cafe Gündoğdu...........................................C4 İstanbul Modern.......................................... F3 34 Le Fumoir ....................................................D3
35 Leb-i Derya ..................................................D2 æ Sights (p117) 36 Leb-i Derya Richmond...............................D2 1 Arab Mosque ...............................................B4 37 Mavra ...........................................................D3 2 Azapkapı Sokollu Mehmet Paşa Camii....A4 38 Sensus Wine Bar ........................................ C3 3 Botter House ...............................................C2 39 Smyrna ......................................................... F1 4 Christ Church ..............................................D3 40 Tophane Nargile Cafes...............................F3 5 Depo .............................................................E3 41 Waterfront Çay Bahçesis ..........................H2 6 Galata Mevlevi Museum.............................C2 42 X Bar............................................................. B2 7 Galata Tower ...............................................C4 8 Jewish Museum of Turkey.........................C5 ý Entertainment (p135) 9 Kasa Galeri...................................................C4 43 Babylon........................................................C2 10 Museum of Innocence.................................E1 Galata Mevlevi Museum .....................(see 6) 11 Patisserie Lebon .........................................C2 44 Nardis Jazz Club.........................................C4 12 SALT Galata.................................................C4 Salon .................................................. (see 42) 13 Schneidertempel Art Center.....................C4
þ Shopping (p136) ú Eating (p124) 45 Artrium.........................................................C2 14 Antiochia......................................................C2 46 Arzu Kaprol .................................................C3 15 Asmalı Cavit................................................. C1 47 Bahar Korçan..............................................C3 Ca' d'Oro .............................................(see 12) 48 Berrin Akyüz.................................................G1 16 Fasuli Lokantaları........................................ F3 49 Dear East .....................................................D3 17 Fürreyya Galata Balıkçısı ...........................C3 50 Hammam.....................................................C4 18 Galata House...............................................C4 51 İroni ..............................................................C4 19 Galata Konak Patisserie Cafe....................C4 52 İstanbul Modern Gift Shop.........................F3 20 Güney Restaurant.......................................C3 53 Lâl .................................................................C4 21 Helvetia Lokanta.........................................C2 54 Lale Plak.......................................................C2 22 İstanbul Modern Cafe/Restaurant........... F3 55 Selda Okutan .............................................. E4 23 Journey .........................................................F1 56 SIR ................................................................D2 24 Karaköy Güllüoğlu ......................................D5 25 Karaköy Lokantası......................................E4 ÿ Sleeping (p171) 26 Kiva Han .......................................................C3 Anemon Galata................................. (see 38) 27 Lokanta Maya..............................................E4 57 Ansen Suites...............................................C2 28 Namlı ............................................................D5 58 Beş Oda .......................................................D2 29 Sofyalı 9 .......................................................C2 59 Galateia Residence..................................... D2 30 The House Café...........................................C2 60 Manzara Istanbul........................................ C3
61 Serdar-ı Ekrem 59...................................... D2 û Drinking & Nightlife (p131) 62 TomTom Suites...........................................D1 31 Atölye Kuledıbı ............................................C4 63 Witt Istanbul Hotel ......................................F2 32 Baylo.............................................................C2 64 World House Hostel ................................... C3
BEYOğLU SO
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BEŞİKTAŞ
DİKİLIİAŞ
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æ Sights (p000) ú Eating (p000) 1 Çırağan Palace ............................................D4 8 Banyan..........................................................F3 2 Dolmabahçe Palace....................................A5 House Cafe...........................................(see 8) 3 Hatice Sultan Yalı........................................G2 9 Kitchenette...................................................F3 4 Naval Museum ............................................B5 10 Vogue........................................................... A4 5 Ortaköy Mosque .........................................G3 Zuma ...................................................(see 18) 6 Tomb of Barbarossa...................................C4 7 Yıldız Park ....................................................D2 û Drinking & Nightlife (p000)
Anjelique.............................................(see 18) 11 Çırağan Palace Kempinski Hotel..............D4
æ Top Sights (p141) ú Eating (p143) Dolmabahçe Palace....................................A5 7 Banyan..........................................................F3
House Cafe...........................................(see 7) æ Sights (p142) 8 Kitchenette...................................................F3 1 Çırağan Palace ............................................D4 9 Vogue........................................................... A4 2 Hatice Sultan Yalı........................................G2 Zuma ................................................... (see 17) 3 Naval Museum ............................................B5 4 Ortaköy Mosque .........................................G3 û Drinking & Nightlife (p144) 5 Tomb of Barbarossa...................................C4 Anjelique............................................. (see 17) 6 Yıldız Park ....................................................D2 10 Çırağan Palace Kempinski Hotel..............D4
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MECİDİYE
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12 Reina............................................................ G2 Ø Sports & Activities (p000) 13 Sortie ............................................................ H1 Bosphorus Tours.................................(see 5) 14 Supperclub ................................................. G2 Four Seasons Istanbul at the
Bosphorus ....................................... (see 17) ý Entertainment (p000) 15 İstanbul Jazz Center...................................F3 ÿ Sleeping (p000)
17 Four Seasons Istanbul at the þ Shopping (p000) Bosphorus ................................................D4 16 Haremlique ................................................. B4 House Hotel......................................... (see 8)
18 Radisson Blu Bosphorus Hotel................. F3
0 500 m0 0.25 miles
11 Reina............................................................ G2 Ø Sports & Activities (p145) 12 Sortie ............................................................ H1 Bosphorus Tours................................ (see 4) 13 Supperclub ................................................. G2 Four Seasons Istanbul at the
Bosphorus .......................................(see 16) ý Entertainment (p144) 14 İstanbul Jazz Center...................................F3 ÿ Sleeping (p173)
16 Four Seasons Istanbul at the þ Shopping (p145) Bosphorus ................................................D4 15 Haremlique ................................................. B4 House Hotel..........................................(see 7)
17 Radisson Blu Bosphorus Hotel................. F3
BEşIkTAş ORTAköY
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(p148)
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alide Mosque.................................D
3
2 Ayazm
a Mosque
.....................................B2
3 Ç
inili Mosque
...........................................E3
4 Kız K
ulesi..................................................A3
5 M
ihrimah S
ultan Mosque
......................C1
6 Ş
emsi A
hmed P
aşa Mosque
.................B1
7 Yeni V
alide Mosque
................................C2
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(p149)
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9 Mistanbul H
ancı Cafe
.............................B1
ÜSkÜDAR
246
The voyage of the Virgin to Bethlehem & the dream of Joseph
The census held for the enrolment for taxation & registration of Mary & Joseph in the presence of Cyrenius, Governor of Syria
Jesus going with Mary & Joseph to Jerusalem
Remains of mosaics – Jesus among the doctors in the temple
St TrachosSt AndronikusThe birth of JesusThe return of the Virgin Mary with JesusThe attempts of Satan to deceive JesusSt GeorgiosSt DemetriusJesus & the inscription ‘the dwelling-place
of the living’The prayer of the Virgin & the attendant
angelsThe wedding at Cana & the miraclesDepiction of the saintsDepiction of the saintsThe Magi on their way to Jerusalem riding
on horseback & the three Magi in audience with King Herod
Elizabeth & John the Baptist running away from a pursuing soldier
Remains of mosaicsDepiction of the saintsDepiction of the saintsThe scene of King Herod’s investigation & a
guard standingThe mourning mothersNo mosaics leftA decorative medallionThe meeting of Jesus with the Samaritan
woman at the wellThe healing of a paralysed person by JesusKing Herod giving the order for the
massacre of the innocents & the execution thereof
Remains of mosaicsThe healing by Jesus of a young man with
an injured armThe healing by Jesus of leprous manTwenty-four of the early ancestors of Jesus
(Genealogy of Christ)The healing by Jesus of a woman asking for
the restoration of her healthThe healing by Jesus of the mother-in-law
of St PeterThe healing by Jesus of a deaf person
1
2
3
4
5A5B
678
9A9B10
11
1213A13B
14
15
1617A17B
18
19202122
2324
2526A
26B27
28
29
30
æMosaics
69 7256
7170
66
677576
7868
7374
77
65 6463 62 59 55 54
61
60 57
58
53
5251
50B
50C
36
34
38
39 40
353741b 41a
4442
43
45B 45A
50A4746
48
49A49B32 29
3327
31
30 2826A26B
25
2324
21
22
20
19 18
17A17B
1516
14
13A13B
1112
10
9A9B8
67
5B 5A
24
31
G
H
I
J
Annex
Apse
PF K U O NL
M
E
D
C
B
A
Exit
Entrance
Nave
OuterNarthex
InnerNarthex
Parecclesion
KARIYE MUSEUM(CHORA CHURCH)
kARI
YE m
USEU
m
247
Dispersion of good health by Jesus to the people
The healing by Jesus of two blind menThe Khalke Jesus & the praying VirginThe Virgin & the Child JesusJoachim in the mountains praying to have a
childNo mosaics leftThe breaking of the good news of the birth
of Jesus to Mary – The AnnunciationThe chief priest Zacchariah judging the
VirginMary & Joseph bidding each other farewellThe breaking of the good news of the birth
of Mary to AnneThe meeting of Anne & JoachimJoseph bringing the Virgin into his houseMary in the arms of Anne & Joachim & the
blessing by the priestsGiving of the stick with young shoots
indicating Joseph as Mary’s fiancéThe birth of the Virgin MaryThe first seven steps of the Virgin & below,
St PeterThe prayer of the chief priest Zacchariah in
front of the 12 sticksThe presentation of Mary (age three) to the
temple by her parentsThe Virgin taking the skeins of wool to
weave the veil for the templeTheodore Metochites presenting a small
model of the church to JesusThe feeding of the Virgin by an angel &
below, St PeterRemains of mosaics – Directives given to
the Virgin at the templeThe Assumption of the VirginMary & the Child JesusJesus in a standing posture, holding the
Bible in his hand
The AnastasisThe Church FathersThe raising (resurrection) of the widow's
son)The healing of the daughter of JairusThe Virgin ElousaThe Last JudgmentAbraham & the beggar Lazarus on his lapSt GeorgeRich man burning in Hell's fireThose entering Heaven & the Angel
Seraphim with the semi-nude good thief.Depiction of Andronikus II & his family &
the inscription & depiction above of Makarios Tornikes & his wife Eugenia
The Bearing of the Ark of the CovenantSt DemetriusSt Theodore TiroMary & Child Jesus with the 12 attending
angelsFour Gospel Writers (Hymnographers): St
CosmosFour Gospel Writers (Hymnographers): St
John of DamasceneFour Gospel Writers (Hymnographers): St
TheophanesFour Gospel Writers (Hymnographers): St
JosephSt Theodore StratelatesKing Solomon & the IsraelitesPlacement into the temple of the Ark of the
CovenantThe combat of an angel with the Asurians in
the outskirts of Jerusalem.St Procopios, St Sabas StratelatesMoses in the bushesJacob's ladder & the angelsAaron & his sons carrying votive offerings,
in front of the altarSt Samonas & guiras
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æ Frescoes
kARIYE mUSEUm
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9837th edition – February 2013ISBN 978 1 74179 961 3© Lonely Planet 2013 Photographs © as indicated 201310 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Our WriterVirginia MaxwellAlthough based in Australia, Virginia spends much of her year researching guidebooks in the Mediterranean countries. Of these, Turkey is unquestionably her favourite. As well as working on the previous three editions of this city guide, she is also the author of Lonely Planet’s İstanbul pocket guide and the İstanbul chapter of Lonely Planet’s Turkey guide, and she writes about the city for a host of international magazines and websites. Virginia usually travels with partner
Peter and son Max, who have grown to love Turkey as much as she does.
Read more about Virginia at: lonelyplanet.com/members/virginiamaxell
Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Top ItinerariesDay TwoBazaar District
M Get ready to explore the city’s famous bazaar district. After exploring the
labyrinthine lanes and hidden caravanserais of the world-famous Grand Bazaar, make your way to the most magnificent of all Ot-toman mosques, the Süleymaniye.
Bazaar District
R After lunch, follow the steady stream of local shoppers making their way
down the hill to the Spice Bazaar. While there, seek out the exquisite Rüstem Paşa Mosque, camouflaged in the midst of a busy produce market. As the sun starts to set, walk across the Galata Bridge towards the eating and entertainment district of Beyoğlu.
Beyoğlu
N Start with a pre-dinner drink in one of Beyoğlu’s rooftop bars and then
move on to dinner in a meyhane (tavern) or a stylish restaurant serving Modern Turkish cuisine. After dinner, kick on to a club or wind down at the Tophane nargile cafes.
Lunch Eateries, including Bahar and Onur, surround the Grand Bazaar.
Dinner Meyhanes (taverns) and restaurants aplenty in Beyoğlu.
Day OneSultanahmet & Around
M Head to Aya Sofya Meydanı (Square) and work out which of the museums
and mosques in the immediate area will be on your visiting list. Don’t miss Aya Sofya, the Blue Mosque and the Basilica Cistern.
Sultanahmet & Around
R Diverge from the tourist trail and visit some of Sultanahmet’s hidden
highlights. Source some souvenirs in the historic Arasta Bazaar, where you can browse in carpet, handicraft and bathwares shops.
Sultanahmet & Around
N After enjoying an early dinner, make your way to Sirkeci, where you can
watch dervishes whirl at Hocapaşa Cul-tural Centre, a converted 15th-century hamam. Alternatively, claim a table at Derviş Aile Çay Bahçesi or Cafe Meşale, where you can enjoy tea, nargile and a free (but very touristy) whirling-dervish per-formance.
Lunch Cihannüma offers Ottoman dishes and stupendous views.
Dinner Hamdi serves delicious kebaps and has magnificent views.
16
Day FourThe Bosphorus
M Board the Uzun Boğaz Turu (Long Bosphorus Tour) to spend
a full day exploring this culturally and architecturally rich waterway. After ad-miring the historic yalıs (waterside timber mansions) along its shores, alight from the ferry at Sarıyer and make your way back to town by bus, visiting museums and monu-ments along the way.
Beyoğlu
R If you decided to take a 90-minute cruise on a Bosphorus excursion
boat rather than the full-day trip, you can devote the afternoon to investigating Beyoğlu’s exciting contemporary-art scene. Don’t miss the İstanbul Modern museum and the ARTER and SALT cultural cen-tres.
Beyoğlu
N Wander the streets surrounding the Galata Tower, admiring the build-
ing stock, browsing in boutiques and per-haps enjoying an aperitif. Then move on to Lokanta Maya, a stylish showcase of Mod-ern Aegean cooking in Karaköy, followed by a sweet finale at İstanbul’s most famous baklava shop, Karaköy Güllüoğlu.
Lunch MüzedeChanga – scenic terrace and Modern Turkish cuisine.
Dinner Stylish Lokanta Maya show-cases Modern Aegean cooking.
Day ThreeSultanahmet & Around
M It’s time to investigate the lifestyles of the sultans at Topkapı Palace.
You’ll need a half day to explore the palace Harem, marvel at the precious objects in the Treasury and wander through the pavilion-filled grounds.
Western Districts
R Take the Golden Horn (Haliç) ferry to Ayvansaray and then walk along
the historic land walls to Edirnekapı so that you can admire the exquisite mosa-ics and frescoes that adorn almost every surface of Kariye Museum, a former Byz-antine church. If you’re keen to see more mosaics, the Fethiye Museum is a short walk away.
Sultanahmet & the Bazaar District
N You’ve spent a full day sightseeing, so why not relax in the steamy sur-
rounds of an Ottoman-era hamam (Turk-ish bath) after dinner? Afterwards, head back across the Galata Bridge to Beyoğlu so that you can sample more of its nightlife options.
Lunch Matbah serves Ottoman food in a pleasant garden setting.
Dinner Asmalımescit, in Beyoğlu, has bars and traditional meyhanes.
17PLAN
YOUR TRIP TO
p IT
InEr
Ar
IES
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