spring 2014 rodes fashion forum magazine

RODESFORUM/THE SUBSTANCE OF STYLE/SPRING-DERBY 2014

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Su Misura

Made to Measure is the Art of Personal Elegance

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A CENTENNIAL

CELEBRATION

On March 17, 2014 Rodes will celebrate its 100th anniversary!As a fifth-generation business that has survived World Wars, the Great Depression and a host of

economic swings, Susan and I are blessed to be the current custodians of this remarkable, thriving “family” business.

We are thrilled that you are a part of our celebration. The one constant through the years, and our cornerstone belief, is to offer the best service and the finest products in the world. You have allowed us to celebrate this milestone, and for that and on behalf of all the families and hundreds of people that have worked here, we say thank you.

Rodes is blessed to have amazing customers, a great “family” of employees and world-class business partners. We are part of the fabric of this great city of Louisville and are so excited to see what the future holds. Thank you from the bottom of our hearts for 100 great years!

See you around town,Susan, Howard and “The Rodes Family"

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d e s i g n i n g f o r t h e w a y y o u l i v e

r e s i d e n t i a l & c o m m e r c i a l d e s i g n | h a n d c r a f t e d f u r n i t u r e | d e s i g n a c c e s s o r i e s

7 3 1 E a s t M a i n S t r e e t | 5 0 2 5 8 4 6 3 4 9 | w w w. b i t t n e r s . c o m | f a c e b o o k . c o m / b i t t n e r s d e s i g n


Rodes 502-753-RODES (7633)

rodes.com4938 Brownsboro Road,

Louisville, KY 40222

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Karen Alberg Grossman

DESIGN DIRECTOR Hans Gschliesser

MANAGING EDITOR Jillian LaRochelle

PROJECT MANAGER Lisa Montemorra

DESIGNERS Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti

CONCEPT DIRECTORS Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell

MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR Bob Mitchell

DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION Peg Eadie

DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS John Frascone

BUSINESS JOURNAL S FASHION GROUPPUBLISHER

Stuart NifoussiPRESIDENT AND CEO

Britton JonesCHAIRMAN AND COO

Mac BrightonCHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

Christine Sullivan

APPAREL FORUM

Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO

Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA

Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN

Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH

Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA

Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX

Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA

Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY

Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT

Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN

Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY

Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA

Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX

Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA

FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 11 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR

MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM © 2014. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS

JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-

8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 •

FAX: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO

RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS

OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED

WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 17, ISSUE 1.

PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.

FEATURES 10 100th Anniversary Timeline66 Best Practices: Exceptionally Eton72 Profile: Lafayette 14874 Essay: Cut Your Losses 96 Art: Listen Up

FASHION15 100 Years of Style70 All Tied Up78 Color Check86 Italian Style

DEPARTMENTS 2 Welcome Letter 62 Ask Jim64 Ask Susan 76 Wheels: Great Escape 92 World Scene98 Spirits: Made-to-Treasure100 End Page: Speaking of Style

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Exclusive fabric by Loro Piana, “Extreme”

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RODESFAMILY

TIMELINE

THE BEGINNING The Starks Company Men’s

Haberdashery store opens on March 17, 1914 in the new Starks Building.

World War I begins three months later. John Starks Rodes and William

H. Rapier are hired to operate the business, and the company is renamed

Rodes Rapier. W. Reed Embry joins the firm as president a year later.

1911199411

The Rodes-Rapier Company survives the Great Depression and the 1937 Louisville flood. Rodes then endures World War II by selling U.S. Army uniforms at Fort Benjamin Harrison (Indiana), Fort Knox and Camp Taylor (Audubon Park). During this time, all fabric is used for the war effort so piece goods for “civilian” clothing are scarce.

ECONOMIC UPSWING In 1981 Lawrence Smith becomes president of Rodes. In 1983 he purchases his mother’s (Elizabeth Embry) shares in the firm and those of her two cousins, Jack and Clif Rodes, becoming sole owner. In 1984 Lawrence “Larry” Smith, Jr. joins Rodes as manager of the Columbus, Indiana store. Larry represents the fourth generation of family in the company.

In 1984 both Rodes and the Starks Building undergo major renovations as part of the development of the Starks Court Atrium, which connects the building to the neighboring Galleria Mall (now 4th Street Live). Rodes acquires Schupp & Snyder, a

“traditional” men’s clothing store located in the Starks Arcade, in 1987. As the economy thrives Rodes decides to become a regional player and opens stores in the Fayette Mall, Lexington in 1988 and in the Bellevue Center in Nashville, Tennessee in 1990.

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The Rodes Starks Building store expands to 25,000 square feet on two floors to

accommodate the increased demand for tailored men's and boy's clothing during

the post-World War II boom. In 1954 Reed Embry Smith joins the company as bookkeeper, eventually becoming a buyer

and later secretary-treasurer.

1911599455


THE NEXT GENERATION RETAIL AND UNIFORMS In 1931 W. Reed Embry brings his son-in-law, Hanford Smith, into the business during the Great Depression. Hanford becomes president, then chairman. John S. Rodes, Jr. begins his Rodes career in the shirt collar department in 1932 and later becomes senior vice president. “Jack” serves the company for over 50 years, retiring in 1982.

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After five prosperous years, Rodes-Rapier quadruples its store

size and moves to the corner of the Starks Building at 4th &

Walnut Streets, downtown.

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In 1962, at the direction of Hanford Smith (who is part of the commission

to build the first enclosed mall in Louisville), Rodes opens its

second store in Kentucky’s first enclosed mall (which is now

Mall St. Matthews).

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3rd GENERATION, MALL EXPANSIONAs the mall concept takes hold in America, Rodes continues to open new stores: a third location in Oxmoor Center in 1971 and a fourth location in Columbus, Indiana in 1975. Rodes also makes its first foray into the women’s business in 1977. The downtown store dedicates floor space to women’s tailored suits and blouses, and Hermès scarves.

Reed E. Smith’s son, Reed Smith, begins working at the Oxmoor location as a sales associate in 1971. In 1979 Lawrence L. Smith ”Rabbitt”, son of Hanford Smith, joins the firm as operations manager.

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After two years with Cintas, Lawrence asks Susan and Howard to return to

Louisville and reinvigorate Rodes. Simultaneously, in 2002 Rodes risks

it all by getting into the women’s business after Jacobsen’s closure at

Oxmoor Mall. And so Rodes For Her is born. Later that year, after 90 years downtown, the decision is made not

to renew the Starks building lease. Rodes For Him & For Her moves to its present location on Brownsboro Road.

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During the next nine years, Rodes history repeats itself. The retail landscape is changing quickly with the advent of international brands and the introduction/acceptance of luxury European clothing. To fund the growth of the uniform business and begin its metamorphosis toward selling luxury brands in fewer locations, Rodes closes many of its stores as mall leases expire.

BACK TO UNIFORMS In 1990, Lawrence L. Smith, Sr. asks his daughter Susan Smith-Vogt and

son-in-law Howard to move home and join the family business, which is now

comprised of seven stores.

Simultaneously UPS chooses Louisville as its worldwide air hub and thus Rodes gets

back into the uniform business, winning the contract to provide UPS pilot uniforms.

In 1991 Howard is asked to run the newly formed “Rodes Professional Apparel”. The

uniform division gains traction throughout the decade as “RPA” garners contracts

with DHL, TWA, Continental, PAN-AM, Southwest, Clinique and the Americas Cup.

In 1997 Rodes introduces Zegna and Canali to Louisville. Also during the 1990s it becomes clear that stores/chains worldwide are ramping up “brand” selling. In order to survive and compete stores can no longer be “everything to everyone” but have become more specialized and focused.

1911999099

1911999799

The company merges with She of Louisville and is now firmly fixed as the premier women’s store in Kentuckiana. Ten years later, Rodes For Her accounts for over 50% of the business.

022000800

In 2010, thanks to our great customers, Rodes climbs back from the crash of 2008 and continues to add world-class brands and associates. In 2013 Rodes For Him renovates, creating two shop-in-shops, featuring exclusive lines to this region: Ermenegildo Zegna of Italy and Eton of Sweden. Additionally, Rodes is awarded “The Gold Standard” by Esquire Magazine as one of the top 35 specialty stores in the United States.

Now here we stand 100 years later… on March 17, 2014, we celebrate our centennial milestone! Here’s to the next 100!

2022100011

A NEW BEGINNING Rodes returns to its retail roots, selling Rodes Professional Apparel to Cintas

in January 2000. In 2001 The Oxmoor Center location closes after the lease

expires and Rodes is operating its Starks building location and Schupp & Snyder.

2022000000


Photography by Andrew KungHair by Katy Jo GardnerMakeup by Nick Carter, Joseph’s Salon & Spa

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

MONIQUE LHUILLIER


100 BEAUTIFUL YEARS!YOU’VE MADE A MARK

ON YOUR COMMUNITY

AND LOOKED GREAT DOING IT.

LOOKING FORWARD TO

ANOTHER CENTURY OF STYLE!

CONGRATULATIONS RODES ON


ST. JOHN


CANALI


ESCADA


ROBERT TALBOTT


LAFAYETTE 148 NEW YORK


SAMUELSOHN


kate spade new york


ETRO


“Congratulations on 100 years of success! Thank you for

being such a great partner. Wishing you 100 more years of good luck from Napoli.”

Gianluca Isaia


ISAIA


SCOTT BARBER


ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA


basler-fashion.com


The eighth annual Derby Divas™ eventhosted at Rodes and isThursday, April 17, from 6:30 to 9 p.m.This girls’ night out event features anevening of shopping, specialty cocktails,hors d’ oeuvres and a chance to win agetaway for two at Blackberry Farmthrough the Derby Divas raffle. HostsSusan Vogt, Fran Thornton and AngelaTafel, along with the Derby Divasplanning committee, devote hundreds ofhours planning the event each year tokick off the Derby season in style. Thissuccessful event works to raise funds tosupport the Norton Cancer InstituteBreast Health Program through theNorton Healthcare Foundation.

Tickets are $45 in advance or $55 at the door.The first 50 people who pay a special $125admission fee will receive an exclusive gift bagfull of beauty products and other goodies.Proceeds help fund mammograms forunderserved women in our community.


“The Norton Healthcare Foundation is so fortunate

to have been embraced by the Rodes family. We

cannot imagine a more generous or involved

partner. Thanks for joining our quest to overcome

breast cancer…and a very happy 100th Anniversary!”


Thank you for being thequintessential Americanestablishment of eclecticfashion in Louisville! We arehonored to be partners.Here’s to another 100 years!


VERONICA BEARD


MARCHESA VOYAGE


RACHEL ROY


JAPANESE, ITALIAN & AMERICAN DENIMSSUPIMA COTTON KNITWEAR

MADE IN AMERICA


To the Rodes family, Thank you for the many years of successful partnership!Happy 100th Anniversary and best wishes for the future!

OF SWITZERLAND

Nicolas Goetschel: VP Sales & Marketing. Naomi Habisreutinger: VP Patterns , Heinz Fischer: CFO, Doris Fischer: Accounts Payable, SylviaGoetschel: VP Design & Production / Owner, Carlo Goetschel: President / Owner, Philippe Goetschel: Design & Production

The Algo Family


Quality is Always Fashionable


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spring 2014

Casual Luxury for Men


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CONGRATULATIONS TO RODES ON 100 YEARS OF TIMELESS STYLE

CHEERS FROM YOUR FRIENDS AT STUART WEITZMAN


Q: I always thought that jeans are jeans, but

I’m told there’s a differencebetween dress denim and casualdenim. What’s the difference?If you own trim-fitting jeans in a mediumto dark wash with no tears or abrasions,feel free to wear them out to dinner, with asportcoat and tie if you desire, or with anykind of shirt or sweater. If you don’t ownthis type of denim, come into the store

and try some on! Clean, dark jeans areperhaps the single most important item intoday’s casual wardrobes, because theywork well with virtually everything youcan think of. What’s more, many of today’snew denim fabrics contain a small per-centage of stretch to ensure comfort, wrin-kle resistance and a perfect fit!

If your jeans are baggy in a light tomedium wash (with or without tears orabrasions), save them for casual wear anddon’t pair them with a slim modern sport-coat. Better yet, buy some jeans that fit.

Q: I own just one belt thatreverses from black to

brown. What more do I need?Just as there are dress jeans and casualjeans, there are also dress belts and casualbelts. If the leather is smooth, shiny, bur-nished or exotic (alligator, snakeskin), it’sbest worn with dress trousers or a suit.FYI, we love brown belts and brown shoes(leather or suede) worn with gray andnavy tailored clothing!

When you’re wearing casual pants(jeans, khakis, twills), the ideal belt mightbe a softer leather or suede. Fabric beltsare also great in spring and summer (per-fect for shorts!). Don’t be afraid of color orinteresting buckles, both good ways toexpress some fashion flair.

Q: I’m seeing some strangelyshort pants on young guys

these days, sometimes hittingabove the ankle. Is this a trend?Shorter-length pants are definitely theway to go in 2014, but showing ankle is onthe extreme side. We recommend a verysoft break in the leg, with the hem of thepant just grazing the top of the shoe. Ifthis seems too trendy for you, go a bitlonger, but please: no hems dragging onthe floor! If your pant leg covers the entireheel of your shoe, it’s too long!

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ASKJIMSPRING 2014FASHION TIPS

FOR HIM

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Q:How do you choose which designers to bring into Rodes?

I am a very visual girl. My mom was my first teacher: an interi-or designer with incredible creativity and an eye for color andtexture. Early in her career she would drag me to fabric, carpet,paint and wallpaper stores, where I would watch her choosepieces that would work together to create a beautiful room.

In order to create a store filled with beautiful product, I visitdesigner showrooms, watch fashion shows, and talk with ven-dors, our staff, and friends in the industry from across the coun-try. My team and I see and read about countless trends and takethousands of pictures, then begin to figure out the best way tointroduce them to you in Louisville.

Vendor by vendor, item by item, we start putting together the“buy” for the upcoming season. If you include footwear, jewelryand other accessories, we carry over 200 vendors in the store.Taking into account that an appointment can last between oneand six hours, you can imagine how much time we spend inNew York just meeting with our existing brands!

But the real trick is discovering the exciting new designersyou won’t find just anywhere. One recent example is VeronicaBeard. I’ve been watching the brand closely for two years, wait-ing for the product offering to fully mature. I am so excited tobring the line to Rodes this season, and I look forward to help-ing you update your wardrobe with the best fashions the worldhas to offer.

Q:What do you like best about your job?There’s so much to love about being a fashionista! If I had tochoose one thing, I would have to say it’s the “style outs” we doaround Derby time and when we’re planning to shoot for theForum magazine. There is nothing more satisfying than start-ing with a blank canvas and creating a one-of-a-kind look.

For the magazine, I scour the thousands of pictures we tookduring market appointments to see what fashions have beentrending, then I choose how to interpret those trends for

Louisvillians’ unique style. (Not everything I see on the fashionrunways makes sense for our city, but I do enjoy watching theartists take risks.) Of the many options, I narrow it down toabout 15 looks from a variety of vendors, both old favorites andnew additions.

Then the fun begins! We play with pairings and always try topush each look to the edge. Sometimes it’s an easy process, andother times a challenge. But each look will continue to evolve aswe finesse the model with hats, jewels, shoes, a hairstyle andmakeup. I like the final outfits to have fluidity, but always with atwist!

It’s the same with the clients we dress for Derby: it can takesome time, but it’s such a fun process every step of the way. Itend to push our clients to step outside the norm and take arisk, so when we eventually achieve the finished look, it’s an“aha” moment.

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YOURQUESTIONS ANSWERED

ASKSUSAN

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CONGRATULATES

RODES

ON 100 YEARS


66

WE RECENTLY HAD THE OPPORTUNITYTO VISIT ETON in Ganghester and Stockholm,Sweden with a select group of stores from the U.S. andCanada. Knowing Eton is one of the hottest brands in theluxury market, we were eager to experience firsthand theculture, commitment and quality-obsessed artisans at thisamazing company.

Like most great companies, success starts at the top.Eton CEO Hans Davidson (third generation, the companywas founded by his grandparents in 1948) and senior advi-sor Jan Borghardt were incredibly candid about their jour-ney. As Borghardt explains it, “The Swedish mindset dis-courages arrogance: you should never think you’re toogreat. Hans and I were making all the decisions at Eton

best

pra

ctice

s

It’s been said there are morechemicals in a cup of British teathan in an Eton shirt…” Hans Davidson, Eton CEO

ETONExceptionally

Howard Vogtposes with Etoncreative direc-tor SebastianDollinger inStockholm.

CRAFTING THE WORLD’S FINEST SHIRTS.By Howard Vogt and Jim Porter

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and it was hard forus to let peoplecontribute. But werealized that wemight be the prob-lem, so we estab-lished a team-building culturethat encouragescreative thinking.An intense passionnow permeates thecompany; our peo-ple love coming towork…”

Eton is a verticalbusiness, manag-ing every stage ofthe shirt-making process from cotton production to cre-ative to sales. Every Eton shirt is ecologically responsible,from growing thecotton (using croprotation to naturallyenrich the soil) todyeing the yarns topackaging and ship-ping.

Eton uses morecotton per squaremillimeter thanother luxury brandsand they use onlyextra-long staple“ELS” cotton (Pimafrom California andGiza from Egypt), renownedfor its luster, durability andsoftness. Only 0.7 percent ofthe world’s cotton is ELS!They then partner with topmills in Italy, Switzerlandand France that spin thecotton and weave the fabricinto their exclusive designs(they use no fabrics avail-able on the open market).

Also unique to Eton shirts

ecologically safe way possible. “Cynicssay it’s impossible to attain our level ofwrinkle-free without chemicals,”Davidson explains. “It’s been said thereare more chemicals in a cup of British

tea than in an Eton shirt…” We at Rodes are so excited to be

part of Eton’s growth and all theyare doing globally to leave theplanet a better place, while stilloffering the some of the finestproducts in the market. As Etonglobal sales director ErikWilkinson says about his relation-ship with us, “We are proud to saythat Rodes now has our largestEton shop in the U.S., installed during their beautiful remodel. Welook forward to working with them

for the next 100 years and then some...” At the end of our stay in Stockholm,

we received our “Eton College” diplo-mas, so we are now officially experts inthe technical aspects of an Eton shirt!

But what we reallytook away from ourvisit was a pro-found admirationfor the world-classbusiness culturethey have created; it’s truly the secretto their success!

68

Above: SteveRamenofskyand Rodes’ ownJim Porter lis-ten attentivelyas they tourEton’s factory.

ETON BY THE NUMBERS

There are 18miles of yarn per shirt. Each shirt requires at least 100 minutes ofcutting and sewing. Eton uses 150metersof thread per shirt. Color clarity: there are250different shades of red alone!There are 25,000stitchesmade to produce one Eton shirt.

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is a notable crispness, thanks to asecret 40-step process that actual-ly rearranges the cotton fibersrather than coating the fabricwith chemicals. This allows forwrinkle resistance in the most

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3.0-3.5” 2.5-3.0” 2.0-2.5”

Those in the know view ties first and foremost asfashion accessories, divorced from the dresscodes of 30 years ago.

While ties paired with suits are still mandatoryin some corporate office environments, many guysdon’t see them that way: to younger generations,

ties in narrower widths and materials like cotton or wool arefashionable accessories that go just as well with jeans and anunconstructed blazer... or no jacket at all.

Take note that ties have been steadily slimming down overthe last 10 years, from an average of 4 inches in 1994 to 3.25inches today. Several widths (as illustrated above) are nowacceptable, as long as they’re in proportion to your jacketlapel.

With the pressure off, you’re free to add neckwear to almostany outfit, for almost any occasion. There’s no better way toshow your unique personal style.

MODERN NARROW SKINNY

ALLTIED UP!THE FINISHING TOUCH THAT MAKES

ALL THE DIFFERENCE.

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1.Louis XIV began wearing a lace cravat at the age of seven, igniting a trend that

spread across France.

2.In the early 1700s, leather collars called“stocks” were worn around the neck to

protect major blood vessels and encourage sol-diers to hold their heads high during battle.

3.Published in 1818, Neckclothitania orTietania contains the first printed use

of the word “tie” in reference to neckwear.

4.The long, thin necktie style still usedtoday was born during the industrial

revolution, when factory workers needed simple, unfussy neckwear that wouldn’t come undone.

5.When soldiers returned home from WWII, the Bold Look (characterized by

ties that were up to 5 inches wide) showedtheir eagerness to break free from the con-formity of military uniforms.

6.Since September 2007, doctors in British hospitals have been banned

from wearing neckties because they are laundered less frequently than other clothingitems.

7.In their book The 85 Ways to Tie a Tie,physicists Thomas Fink and Yong Mao

assert that there are exactly 85 possible ways to knot a conventional necktie. Of these, Fink says, “just over a dozen are suffi-ciently handsome or different from each other to be worn.”

8. International Necktie Day (or Cravat Dayin Croatia) is celebrated each year

on October 18th.

LITTLE-KNOWN NECKWEAR FACTS

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The brand’s mis-sion is to provideenduring designs

for its clients’ multi-faceted

lives, soiconic pieces

like the whiteshirt and per-

fect-fittingpant are impor-

tant cornerstones ineach collection. But it’s

the combination of thesepieces with luxurious knits,laser-cut leathers and special hand-embellishments that truly sets Lafayette148 apart. Styles are offered in a fullrange of petite, missy and women’ssizes, giving women of all shapes theopportunity to be effortlessly chic.

At the helm is creative directorEdward Wilkerson, who designedfor Calvin Klein and Donna Karanbefore beginning his tenure atLafayette 148 in 1998. Wilkerson

approaches design from a global viewpoint, and his worldtravels have directly inspired the vivid colors and interestingprints used throughout his designs. This season, look forrelaxed, rounded shapes like drop-shoulder sleeves to softensharp lines, and wide, cropped pants or long, slim skirts tobalance voluminous a-line tops.

Since it was founded by business-

e area access to a public

Dreams. Enrollment quickly expanded from children ofLafayette 148 employees to include children of all local work-ers; it now serves over 300 students from preschool through6th grade. The company recently purchased two buses to pro-vide the children with safe transportation, launched a freelunch and snack program to promote healthy living, and con-tinually raises funds to keep books and equipment up to date.

Though Siu has since passed away, those at Lafayette 148and the School of Dreams continue to live by his philosophy:“Quality on the inside will reflect everywhere else.”

SleekIN ALL SIZES

LAFAYETTE 148 EMBODIESMODERN SOPHISTICATION.

BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

9

Dizzy’s Club-Coca Cola,Jazz at Lincoln Center

prof

ile

72

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man Shun Yen Siu in 1996, the brand’snamesake headquarters at 148Lafayette Street in Manhattan hasbeen the home base for its designteam and also houses a sales show-room and marketing department.Lafayette 148 owns and operates itsown factory, allowing maximum flexi-bility, rapid turnaround time, and

unparalleled oversight of the entire productionprocess. The designers themselves are even on handto make sure every detail is executed exactly how itwas imagined.

Though Lafayette 148’s production facility in Siu’shometown of Shantou, China, is state of the art, thenearby schools were anything but. Outdated lawsdeny many children in theducation, so in 2007 Siu spearheaded the restora-

tion of an abandoned school and founded the School of

LAFAYETTE148NY.COM


I vividly recall my cocky college roommate(an accounting major)lecturing anyone whowould listen: “It’s not howmuch you make; it’s howmuch you keep!”

Those words, deliveredwith the hubris of youth, still resonate for me.Unfortunately, they donot apply to myoverstocked clothingportfolio, as I’ve beenpracticing a buy-and-hold wardrobe strategy.It’s gotten so bad thatwhen there’s a specialevent on the horizon, Ibecome so traumatizedat the prospect of retrieving the right tux from thatentangled black hole that I run out and rent one(despite owning several already).

The painful truth: No matter how good aninvestment it was seven years ago when your waist wasas trim as the economy, some things no longer fit. Forgetabout squeezing into those artfully distressed but nowuncomfortably tight jeans that have strolled in and out of styleseveral times over the years. Forget the suits with the bigshoulders and flowy pleated trousers: even if they still fit,they’re far too outdated to be respectable.

We understand: you were simply caught up in the momentwhen you bought that ridiculously loud red tartan sportcoat

while vacationing in the ScottishHighlands. Blame it on the single maltif you must, but why hold on to itlonger than The Macallan ages in itscask?

Clearly, guys tend to fall victim towhat economists and psychologistscall the Effect of Sunk Costs. Yes, youmade a monetary and mentalinvestment when you decided to buy it,but now that it no longer holds any realvalue to you, why not just toss it?

If you’re like most of us, you don’twant to appear wasteful, but what dowe gain by holding on to stuff wenever wear?

Suggestion: rather than let yourunderused clothes languish in yourovercrowded closet, how about gettinga great return on those investments by

donating them to a local non-profit? If you find the process too

overwhelming, call a professional advisor(e.g. one of our sales associates) to help

rebalance your wardrobe. Not only will yourfashion-savvy consultant suggest what should

stay and what should go, he’ll also offer some great ideas onhow to update your overall style.

The net result: an uncluttered closet, an uncluttered mind,and the spiritual dividend that comes from helping those inneed. My new axiom is out with the old and in with the new.

Or to paraphrase my college roommate: it’s not how muchyou own, but how much you wear. G

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CutYour Losses

RE-EVALUATEYOUR WARDROBE AND

By Hans J. Gschliesser

WHAT DO WE GAIN BY HOLDINGON TO STUFF

WE NEVER WEAR?

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IT JUST FITS.

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I was recently invited to tour the Catskill Mountains ofNew York and the Berkshires of Massachusetts andConnecticut, courtesy of Kawasaki Motors. I’ve beenaround motorcycles for many years and consider myselfan experienced rider, so I gladly accepted. While I waspreparing my gear before the tour, however, it was obviousthat my attire was outdated.

The classic black leather jacket and blue jeans wouldappear archaic to the executives of one of the world’s pre-mier motorcycle brands, so I swapped them for some cool-looking new Rev’It gear. Now I’d be protected by all the lat-est safety features, like reinforced ‘‘body armour’’ in theshoulders, elbows and knees, and kept warm and dry byRev’It’s high-tech textiles. With my updated look I tran-scended the 1970s and joined the 21st century. This tripwas going to be one to remember.

The first bike I rode was the 2014 Kawasaki Ninja 300ABS. Although this lightweight and agile sport model isintended for the relatively inexperienced, all the newesttechnology it utilizes makes this machine a satisfying andexciting ride at any skill level. Our leader, Rob Doyle, tookus on a thrilling route over back roads, complete withenough sweeping turns and variable elevation changes tomake me glad I was on such a nimble machine.

Despite the challenges, there’s no better way to experi-ence a landscape than by motorcycle. As I became onewith my machine, leaning into corners and acceleratingout of them, the texture of the air and the colors of thefoliage seemed enhanced.

We stopped for lunch in the quaint village of Phoenicia,NY, where we enjoyed Mexican food at outdoor tables tofurther absorb the atmosphere of this charming place. Thefood was great and the town was lovely, but I was anxiousto get back on the road, where I would exchange myKawasaki Ninja 300 ABS for a 2014 Kawasaki Vulcan 900Classic LT.

My eagerness to experience this cruiser was reward-ed with a fantastic ride as we continued to tour thebreathtaking roads through the Catskills. This beauti-ful machine delivers enough power to impress anyrider, but with a smoothness and stability that providesoptimal comfort.

After riding all day we had clocked a few hundred milesexploring the hills and dales of the Northeast. We pulledinto the hamlet of Rosendale, NY and checked into the1850 House, where we would spend the night. This historicplace offers the comfort of an inn and the hospitality of apub, and has been in operation since 1850 (as its nameimplies). The enchanting 12-room inn was theperfect place to unwind after such a long day onthe road.

When taking a trip like this, it’s not so muchabout the destination as it is the journey.Experiencing the beauty of nature by bike is anincredible way to see the world. And since motor-cycles have evolved over the years, these sophis-ticated machines are safer and perform betterthan anything Marlon Brando or Steve McQueen might have ridden. AsKawasaki’s tagline puts it: “Let thegood times roll.”

whee

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Great EscapeMARLON BRANDO-STYLE ANTICS CIRCA THE WILD ONE MAY HAVE PREVAILED DECADES AGO, BUT TODAY’S MOTORCYCLE ENTHUSIASTS HAVEAN ENTIRELY DIFFERENT ATTITUDE. BY DAVID A. ROSE

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33 FASHION_Color Check.qxp:Forum 1/28/14 1:39 PM Page 1

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SPRING 2014 BRINGS A FRESH TAKE ON PRINT AND COLOR. DISCOVER THE LUSH HUES OF THETROPICS, SET ON STUNNING VERANDAS UNDERA CANOPY OF PALMS AT THE MOORINGS RESORT& SPA IN ISLAMORADA, FLORIDA.

COLORCHECK

PHOTOGRAPHY: SERGIO KURHAJECHAIR/MAKEUP: CLAIRE BAYLEYSTYLING: WENDY MCNETT / WIILLIAM BUCKLEY


RODE_P079.pdf


RODE_P080.pdf

BRING ON THE

BLUES


RODE_P081.pdf

BE PLAYFULWITHPLAIDS, SETTINGEXOTICBRIGHTSAGAINST BOLDNEUTRALS.


RODE_P082.pdf


RODE_P083.pdf

IT’S A SHORTS

STORY


RODE_P084.pdf


RODE_P085.pdf

A CRASH COURSE IN EASYELEGANCE, FROM THE WORLD’S

MOST WELL-DRESSED MEN.

ITALIANStyleP

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PAIR PERFECTLYWITH GRAY OR

NAVY SUITSIN A MODERN

SLIM FIT.

Brown Shoes


RODE_P087.pdf

GETS YOUTHROUGH THE

SEASON IN STYLE, WHILE

WHITETROUSERSBALANCE

COLOR ON TOP.

SpringLayering


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DOUBLES AS A BLAZER WHEN WORN WITH A DRESSSHIRT AND TIE.

TailoredOuterwear


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PLAY WITH

IN BOLDCOLOR (ANDSKIP THESOCKS).

Prints & Patterns


RODE_P090.pdf

LEND AN EFFORTLESS

COOL TO SLIM COLORED

CHINOS.

LightweightKnits


RODE_P091.pdf

TOUJOURS PROVENCEQuietly sequestered among the vine-yards, olive groves and lavender fieldsin the South of France is the sleek,modern, nearly 750-acre Terre BlancheHotel Spa Golf Resort. Here, golfersare welcomed with two championship18-hole courses and the LeadbetterGolf Academy, featuring the world’stop instructors. Spend the morningimproving your swing, then pass a lazyafternoon at the infinity pool (with abreathtaking view of the SouthernAlps), or get pampered in the elaborateand opulent spa. Since you’re inFrance, you should do a lot of eatingand drinking. Terre Blanche makes it

easy with four restaurants that serve fresh local dishes and superb wines (the rosés are especially excellent).Finally, retire to one of the elaborately homey villas scattered among the pine trees, where you’ll find seclusionand every contemporary comfort. It’s like having your own private Provence.

A COUNTRY PORTBLACKBERRY FARM, a stylishly pastoral resort at thefoothills of the Smoky Mountains in eastern Tennessee,has been a favorite American destination for generations.Along with the comfortable cottages, award-winningfood, and vast number of activities offered at BlackberryFarm, food, beverage and wine director Andy Chabot hasassembled a commanding collection of 8,500 wines. Therare vintages include 25 madeiras and 20 ports. Chabotintroduces guests to these notable after-dinner wineswith flights: side-by-side tastings of three, such as the1834, 1863 and 1875 madeiras, or ruby, tawny and whiteports. For the true port connoisseur Chabot suggests VVfrom Niepoort (released only twice in the history of thecompany, just 999 bottles of this tawny port were pro-duced), which he describes as “an elegant way to ease outof the evening.”

Experience life’s little luxuries.

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Bespoke Publishing for the Connoisseur

"Louisville's Finest Magazine"slmag.net

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EASY RIDER

Mission Motorcycles has recently introduced the MissionRS, an innovative and high-performing electric motorcy-cle. Merging stunning looks with state-of-the-art tech-

nology, the Mission RS has a 120 kW (160 hp) electric motorintegrated with Mission’s InfiniteDrive, which offers controland performance levels never before seen in any electric vehi-cle. The result: a pure motorcycle experience. Marchesini com-petition-legal and race-spec forged magnesium wheels areincluded in the optional GP Package, making the Mission RSready to compete on the world stage. Production of the MissionRS is limited to 40 editions; naturally, each bike purchased ishand-delivered within North America.

PICTURING THE WILD WESTFor more than a century, cowboys and cowgirls havegathered at the Cheyenne Frontier Days to competeat the rodeo, dance the two-step and recreate the OldWest. There’s also an art show. This July more than60 of the country’s contemporary artists celebrateAmerica’s frontier past—its culture, its magnificentscenery and the western way of life—in paintings,sculptures, wood and alabaster carvings, and Navajoweavings. The Cheyenne Frontier Days Western ArtShow begins with a preview, followed by a receptionat the Wyoming Governor’s Mansion. A western din-ner and cocktails are served throughout the eveningwhile the sale takes place, and guests dance the nightaway to the sounds of a live band.

ON THE WATERFRONTThis summer, experience the great outdoorsat Miami’s Viceroy Hotel. For eveningsthere’s Fifty, a new rooftop indoor/outdoorlounge perched atop the 50th floor. Reclineon chaise lounges or hang out at the bar andprivate pool and stare at the stars (or thecity lights). During the day, head for the 15thfloor and make a splash in the 300-footinfinity pool (Florida’s longest), an 80-per-son hot tub (the world’s largest) and a wad-ing pool, which together add up to a watercomplex the size of a football field.

world scene

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Congratulates Rodes for their dedication and commitment

to excellence for

www.naturabisse.com


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Sound installations are a growing trend in the contemporaryart world. Some attribute their popularity to the globalizationof music through the internet. As Mark IJzerman, a soundartist/composer and writer for Everyday Listening, a websitethat posts various sound and art installations, sees it, “[Theinternet] makes way for music that uses sounds in differentways, which is why people’s ears are open to a wider variety.Sound is all around us, but we’re often not truly aware of it inthe same way as the things we see because sound is temporal,fleeting. Learning how to focus on ‘active listening’ takes timeand concentration, maybe more than looking at a painting,for example.”

Garnering recent attention was Janet Cardiff’s Forty PartMotet, presented at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s TheCloisters. This exhibit was The Cloisters’ entrée into contem-porary art, and it was a first for Cardiff as well, since theexhibit was previously shown only in stark, modern rooms;this time, the backdrop was the beautiful FuentidueñaChapel. Associate curator Anne Strauss referred to the workas “a contemporary artist deconstructing a renowned 16th-century piece of music, transforming it into her own master-work presented in a 12th-century setting.”

The exhibit was breathtaking: 40 speakers set up in an ovu-

lar shape each played the recording of a singular voice from amember of the Salisbury Cathedral Choir. Together, the voic-es sang the 40-part motet Spem in alium numquam habui byTudor composer Thomas Tallis. The 11-minute performanceopened with a verbal introduction by the artist and playedcontinuously during the museum’s operating hours. Guestswere encouraged to walk around the room and listen to eachspeaker—separately and collectively—to gain the overall sen-sory experience.

New York’s Museum of Modern Art also featured an exhibitin this emerging genre last year. Soundings: A ContemporaryScore was MoMA’s first major exhibition of sound art and fea-tured the work of 16 contemporary artists. The museum’swebsite described the exhibit: “These artistic responses rangefrom architectural interventions, to visualizations of other-wise inaudible sound, to an exploration of how sound rico-chets within a gallery, to a range of field recordings—includ-ing echolocating bats, abandoned buildings in Chernobyl, 59bells in New York City, and a sugar factory in Taiwan.... Theexhibition posits something specific: that how we listendetermines what we hear.” Intrigued yet?

Like art, sound installations can be exhibited in variousforms. As IJzerman says, “It can be a sculpture in whichsound is a dominant factor, or a knitted sculpture whichreacts with sound when you touch it. Sound installation art isvery much intertwined with both the exploration of musicand sounds, but also sculptures and interactive systems.”

art

Listen Up!THE NEWEST CONTEMPORARY ARTEXHIBITS ARE HEARD, NOT SEEN. BY ELISE DIAMANTINI

Installation view of Soundings:A Contemporary Score at New

York City’s MoMA. Inset: Janet Cardiff, The Forty

Part Motet , FuentidueñaChapel at The Cloisters

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T H E U LT I M AT E T R O U S E R

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IT'S NO LONGER ENOUGH to order a standard blendedwhisky, or even an 18-year expression of your go-to Scotchbefore dinner. The latest trend: custom barrel selections andblends exclusive to specific restaurants, bars and resorts.

Such custom and one-off bottlings have been around foryears through high-end liquor stores and private tasting soci-eties. But as the cocktail and fine drinking scenes evolve, morebars and restaurants are clamoring for a customized spirit.

Woodford Reserve Bourbon offers two programs for restau-rateurs and beverage managers: A single-barrel selection, andan unusual two-barrel blend, which sees the venue workingdirectly with master distiller Chris Morris to create an exclu-sive whiskey, the selections winnowed down from over 100 pos-sible barrels.

"As far as I know, we have the only program like this," saysMorris. Destinations like The Cloister at Sea Island (Georgia),The Edison in Los Angeles and the St. Regis in Atlanta havetaken advantage. "It's so fun to watch the dynamics of eachaccount: Some want a sweeter blend, some spicier. It's alwaysunique; you can't replicate a two-barrel batch."

Michael MacDonnell, beverage director at the Monte Carloin Las Vegas, concurs: "Uniqueness is one of the top sellingpoints. Nowhere else in the world has it, and when it's gone, it'sgone forever." The resort offers an exclusive Knob Creek sin-

gle-barrel reserve Bourbon andis now offering the first-ever

Russell's Reserve select singlebarrel from Wild Turkey Distiller

Jimmy Russell. Often the restaurant will craft a signature or private selec-

tion cocktail. Chef Marc Murphy's bar/restaurant Kingside, inManhattan's luxe new Viceroy Hotel, features a customMichter's Whiskey (aged in a custom deep-char barrel) in itsown barrel-aged Manhattan. At Emeril Lagasse's Las Vegasvenues, he drops a custom Buffalo Trace Eagle Rare single-bar-rel reserve into three seasonal cocktails: The NOLA Mule, theBourbon Milk Punch and the Autumn Pomme. Bam!

Such exclusivity isn't reserved for whiskeys: Herradura tequi-la offers a Buy the Barrel program to restaurants around thecountry, including several Richard Sandoval properties in NewYork; at contemporary Japanese eatery Shibuya in Las Vegas,you'll find exclusive sakes dubbed Neo-Tokyo and Hachiko;and at Four Seasons Milan, you can order a custom Italian(sweet) vermouth.

"It's wonderful to see people come back and select new bar-rels for seasonality or specific food pairings," says Morris."Restaurants and resorts are finding they're selling out so fastthat they're saying, 'we've already got to do this again.'"

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Made-to-Treasure

THE LATEST TREND:

CUSTOM BARRELSELECTIONS AND

BLENDS EXCLUSIVETO SPECIFIC

RESTAURANTS,BARS AND RESORTS.

RESORTS AND RESTAURANTS OFFER GUESTS ONE-OF-A-KIND DRINKING EXPERIENCES. BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON

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RODE_P098.pdf

Khakis Are About Purpose. Bills Khakis Have More Purpose Than Most.

The individuals to the left make some of the finest khakis in the world.

Each face represents a job. A livelihood that not only supports a family, but fosters a sense of pride

that is difficult to measure in economic terms.

This introduction wouldn’t be possible without customers who measure quality and value on their own scale.

On behalf of everyone here, thank you for wearing Bills Khakis!

The Slowear family of brands offers you the best

in terms of fitting, fabrics and finishings.

Slowear clothes are designed to live longer.

TROUSERS

KNITWEAR

SHIRTS

JACKETS

Enjoy the Slowear brands

RODE_.indd P099RODE_.indd P099 2/11/14 7:55 AM2/11/14 7:55 AM

100

Speaking

StyleINNOVATION! ONE CANNOT BE FOREVERINNOVATING. I WANT TO CREATE CLASSICS.” — COCO CHANEL

“NINETY PERCENT OF WHATYOU SEE WHEN YOU LOOK ATA PERSON IS HIS CLOTHING.SO OF COURSE IT MATTERS!”

— TOM KALENDERIAN

of

ON MATTERS OF STYLE, SWIM WITH THECURRENT. ON MATTERS OF PRINCIPLE,STAND LIKE A ROCK.” — THOMAS JEFFERSON

“One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art.” — Oscar Wilde

YOUCAN HAVEWHATEVERYOU WANTIF YOUDRESSFOR IT.— Edith Head

GOODCLOTHESOPEN ALLDOORS.— Thomas Fuller

“STYLE IS A LUXURY,AND LUXURY IS SIMPLY

WHAT MAKES YOU HAPPY.”— Deborah Needleman

“Good design,much like goodballet, must lookcompletelyeffortless. No onewants to see howhard you’reworking.”— JAMIE WOLF

“

“

“

“

’’

WHETHER YOU’REBREAKING DOWNBARRIERS IN PURSUITOF YOUR DREAM JOBOR ENJOYING ANIGHT OUT WITHYOUR CLOSESTFRIENDS, BEINGSURROUNDED BY THERIGHT LIFE-GIVINGCLOTHES ANDACCESSORIES CANEQUIP YOU WITHTHAT JUJU TO MAKEEVERYTHING GOYOUR WAY.” — CONNIE WANG &MARISSA ROSENBLUM

’’

RODE_33 END PAGE_Speaking of Style.qxp:RODE_ 1/29/14 8:39 AM Page 100

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Blue Grass Audi 4730 Bowling Blvd. 502-894-3427

www.bluegrassaudioflouisville.com

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spring 2014 rodes fashion forum magazine

Documents

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