southern laos nkm free guidebook · 2018-10-22 · bolaven plateau guidebook - nkm mekong homestay...

BOLAVEN PLATEAU GUIDEBOOK - NKM Mekong Homestay in Paksé -

Southern Laos NKM Free Guidebook by NKM [Mekong Homestay & Family Dinner in Paksé] FREE LAO LIBRARY

Bolaven Plateau Loop 22 October 2018 update

Warnings and precautions for use This free guidebook may contain peanut residue and may even make epileptic. Keep away from any source of intense heat & put your pants-straps on! PRINT IT (if possible) or keep it on your iphone, tablet etc. – Share it as much as you want… but keep prude stepmothers away.

It is subjective & talkative and maybe too long for some tired eyes: i wrote it to be as exhaustive as possible & for the travelers to be able to compose their own journey. Main purpose: I try to explain precisely how to enjoy Southern Laos & to show that there is a lot to do (much more than the official guidebooks say); & therefore to increase the duration of travelers' stay. I recommend staying 10 days minimum in SL.

Ingredients List: 15 years of Lao experiences, thousands of km & miles on a motorbike or by foot, months of benevolent work, 2 hectoliters (53 gallons) of coffee and… too many cigarettes. Some beers also (but do not tell my mother, please).

***

I have written this free guidebook because I have not found any tools able to talk about my Southern Lao Confidences & Secret Nice Places (guidebooks, blogs, maps) … and "Because sharing matters".

Other tools: My M-maps exist since February 2017: 4 beautiful pocket maps (more than 16 maps in total) describing precisely Southern Laos area. They are more than maps, they are guides-maps. For sale in Paksé from 2€/map*. No advertisement & No help from any authorities… blablabla.

In this guidebook, I have added some screen shots of the m-maps and many simple diagrams to be clearer in my explanations, but having the m-maps in real will surely help you.

There are 4 main highlights in SL: Paksé, Bolaven Plateau, Champasak Area, 4000 islands riverine archipelago. Therefore the book is divided in 7 parts (isn't it logical?):

Laos in General -- pages (translation in process…)

Paksé Attractions -- pages (translation in process…)

Lao Food Suggestions -- pages (translation in process…)

How to survive in a Mekong bar 10 pages

You are here → Bolaven Plateau Loops 37 pages

Champasak Loop 33 pages

4000 Islands -- pages (translation in process…)

* N.B. All prices in this book are approximate. It is more practical to write them in euro: 1€ = 10.000 Lao kip


Le Plateau des Bolaven ພພ�ງ ບ ລະເວນ Contents ( 35 pages)

Southern Laos Highlights Free Map p. 3

What to do in the Bolaven & How to go in & around the plateau? & Good to know p. 4-10

BOLAVEN PLATEAU ATTRACTIONS

Small & Big Loops part 1 p. 11-22 Blacksmiths & Rubber Trees p. 11 Batchieng Area p. 12 Tad Pasuam p. 13 Mr Vieng Area p. 14-15 Vat Pa p. 16 Tad Lo Area p. 18 Salavan Area (Bonus 1) p. 21 Mr Hook Area p. 22

Small Loop part 2 p. 23-24

Deep Bolaven (Bonus 2) p. 24

Big Loop part 3 p. 25-28 Silk & Tea Farm p. 25 Sekong p. 25 Tad Fèk & Tad Sé Noy p. 25 Attapeu area & Road 18A (Bonus 3) p.26 Tad Katamtok p.27 Tad Tayicsua p. 28 To Paksong … & Landscapes on Southern Laos Roads p. 29

Small & Big Loop part 4 p. 30-36

Paksong p. 30 Nong Luang & Dan Yai (Bonus 4) p. 31

The 4 Sisters Area p. 32 Km40 Tad Yuang p. 33 Km 38 Tad Fan & Tad Champee p. 34 Dan Sixay p. 34 Km36, 35, 34, 33 Tad Itou (Etu) p. 35 Back to Paksé: TIPS p. 36

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Plateau des Bolaven ພພ�ງ ບ ລະເວນ Loops ← useful m-maps for the Bolaven Loop(s)

Southern Laos is probably the richest & the more convenient area in Laos about tourism attractions: diversity & many services (accommodation…). Why or How? → Paksé is a small & busy genuine Lao town → Champasak is very ancient → 4000 islands has a special riverine landscape → Bolaven plateau – as a plateau – adds another very different landscape specificity.

Briefly, Southern Laos is… Paksé = Laotian Peri-Urban Immersion

You go here → Bolaven plateau = Lush Nature, Waterfalls, Coffee Plantations Champasak = Rice Fields, Huge Mekong, Temples, Old Colonial Buildings, Untouched Island. 4000 Islands = Slow Lao Life Fluvial Style & Huge Cataracts

N.B. Paksé's attractions & charms are as misknown as Champasak ones. This is the reason why I have decided to write detailed & exhaustive free guidebooks.

Bolaven Area LOOP(S) ↓

Bolaven Loop(s): 3 days & more Bolaven is known as small loop (200km) / big loop (320 km). Other bigger loops exist. Exactly like Champasak Loop… one does not just reach an overnight destination: there are many stops on the way (from 10 min. to few hours). In other terms: The way is as important as the destination It may be a metaphor of human life. As local transports do not make any loop, nor discovery-stops, I recommend you to get a private vehicle.


r& aScooters & Private Cars

The easiest and cheapest way is to drive a scooter (from 6€ to 10€/day + 3€/100km gas). A private car with a driver is more expensive but nice if you are a group or a family (approx. 60€/day all inclusive). You can combine a private car (many stops on the way to go) and a cheap bus (way back). → Scooters are easy to drive. If your first time, I recommend renting a semi-automatic (s-a) and not a full-automatic (f-a). Your balance will be better with a s-a scooter: on a f-a (city girly scooter) your legs are stuck together in the middle, whereas you ride a a-s as a bicycle or a horse. s-a have more space to put your bags (+ a basket). f-a scooters' suspensions are usually not as good as the s-a's. f-a rental is more expensive (10€/day). → In Southern Laos roads are pretty good and on the way, the landscapes are as valuable as the destinations. There is a little traffic except between Paksé & Paksong (Road 16E) and Paksé-4000 Islands (Road 13). Lao people drive slowly but Traffic Laws are still mysterious. Buddha seems to be the driver.

b No scooter, No private car? → Bolaven by Bus

Stations For the East part of Southern Laos, local buses or songtéos leave from Km 8 Southern Bus Station in Paksé in the morning. From this station, other local transports such as songtéos go South (Eastside of the Mekong, 4000 Islands…)

Local buses go from a town to another town & come back. Bus routes are convenient for Lao people, not for tourists. Buses can drop you anywhere on their route. Schedule is stretched: what time does the bus really leave and arrive? Nobody knows for sure. Where to go? I recommend going to a spot big enough (I call it "site" or "area") to stay one full day or few days:

– on the Small loop → Ban Houay Houn (Mr Vieng), Ban Khouasèt (Tad Lo site), Ban Kok Phoung Tai (Mr Hook), the 4 sisters (Tad Itou, Tad Fan, Tad Champee, Dan Sixay, Tad Yuang)

– on the Big loop → Tad Tayicsua site

… but … 1) most of the Bus Connections between the Bus Routes (passing by the interesting spots) are complicated and hazardous . 2) There is no direct bus (from Paksé) to Ban Kok Phoung Tai, nor Tad Tayicsua. Complicated? → Example I cannot describe here all the combinations and difficulties… but for instance, one would like to go to the 4 sisters: Paksé-Paksong route (or Paksé-Thateng/Paksé-Sekong/Paksé-Attapeu) passes by the 4 sisters. One can stop there & enjoy it 1 or 2 nights. Then, if one wants to go to… → Tad Tayicsua = He/She needs to go to Paksong, find a bus that passes by, but bus do not stop close to the site. Same problem for leaving it. → Ban Kok Phoung Tai (Mr Hook) = He/She needs to get the Paksé-Thateng bus and there, get the Thateng-Salavan bus… or go to Paksong and get the Paksong-Thateng bus, then the Thateng-Salavan bus. Same problem for leaving it. → Ban Khouasèt (Tad Lo site) = He/She needs to get the Paksé-Thateng bus and there, get the Thateng-Salavan bus, stop at Ban Beng and then, get the Salavan-Paksé bus. It is easy to leave Ban Khouasèt and to come back to Paksé with the Salavan-Paksé bus. Whatever the direction for the loop (clockwise or counterclockwise) the connection-problems are still the same.


Other problem: Buses usually leave in the morning… one may arrive too late at a connection-town to get any bus.

The more convenient place to bo by bus is Tad Lo site (altitude 330m), even if it is not really on the Bolaven Plateau (alt. 1200m). I recommend you the Paksé-Salavan route; stop in Ban Khouasèt village, close to Tad Lo site (approx. 2-3€/pers.). Ban Houay Houn is on the route, so it is possible to stop in Ban Houay Houn (day 1) and continue to Ban Khouasèt the next day. From Tad Lo, with the help of locals or travelers met in the site, you may find a way to really go for a day on the plateau (15-20 km further on) and maybe to reach another site further on. It is easy to leave Ban Khouasèt and to come back to Paksé with the Salavan-Paksé bus. Paksong, Thatheng, Sekong or Attapeu are not very attractive towns (to me).

***

No scooter, No private car, No bus? → Travel Agency Tours

→ On m-maps, Travel Agency: ; Moto/Scooter/Bicycle Rental: M

Travel agencies organize day tours (15€/pers.) – many tourists in a minivan. Tours seem to all do the same stops & activities (coffee + waterfalls). I do not know much. Google Agency name and see what they propose in details. There are many agencies in Paksé and especially downtown ↓


Hitchhiking? We do not hitchhike in Laos. Even the poorest Lao people do not hitchhike. Hitchhike may work for foreigners and it is safe. Lao people are very curious about foreigners, so they may pick you up for fun.

***

Weather on the Bolaven: Cool, Cold & Hot

N.B. Some parts of the plateau loop are at 1200m altitude (Paksong). Paksé, Champasak & Attapeu ALT. 90m, Tad Lo ALT. 330m, Thatheng ALT. 850m.

The weather is cool and even cold from mid-December to mid-February… but if you are from Sweden you'll think temperatures are summer like. It can be pretty hot during the day and quite cold after the sunset, during the night and early morning (10-20°C). Therefore you'll get sunburns from 9am to 5pm. Then it may be cold enough to freeze the tail off a brass monkey. If you drive a scooter, the wind feels even colder. Furthermore, it can rain a little from time to time, even during dry season (= October full moon* to June). It rains a lot during rainy season (= July to October full moon*) These 2 reasons explain the soil fertility (+ extinct volcano soil: ferrous, humid & fertile). Jewish mom advice: Bring something to guard you against the relative cold and the hypothetical rain.

* Rainy season starts about June = erratic weather: short & heavy showers, long & heavy showers, long & light rain… it's impossible to predict anything. Rain usually stops completely from the October full moon (approx. mid-October)

How many days? I recommend a minimum of 3 days (2 nights) for the small loop & 4 days (3 nights) for the large loop. + 1 day/night for each is better. … But experience has taught me that travelers would have loved to stay longer if they have known it were so nice: Laos is peaceful, safe and authentic. Take your time In general, Laos will undress its natural timidity if you give it a chance and take your time. People in a hurry should avoid this country.

Cultural Fact & Traditions: Lao Time

There are few Lao words you'll sure hear all the time. "Tchak Noy" ຈກນອຍ is one of them.

Literally: ຈກ "measure of time" + ນອຍ "a little bit" or "small" → something like "time small".

Meaning = "soon". But it's a very stretched "soon"… From 5 minutes… Tomorrow… Next year… to… Next reincarnation.

Cultural Fact & Traditions: Lao manners Offering a little money to express your gratitude or respect is very polite (and expected). Money is not a taboo. Offering money or gold (24 karats) is a proof of respect or love. Lao people do not care much about objects, except cars & huge TV sets they worship and valuable things. "Objects of sentimental value that appear as nothing to others" is not a Lao concept. Lao people will always ask you the price of your gift: don't be offended. If you want to be friendly with your Lao new friends, buy a case of beers (12 x 64cl, 10€), it will be highly appreciated.

BOLAVEN PLATEAU GUIDEBOOK - NKM Mekong Homestay in Paksé

r Leaving Early… & Speed Limit!Laos life starts and ends early: 6am & In Paksé there is a lot of traffic between 7.30 & 8.30am and 4 to 5Be aware that the sun goes down around 6pm all year long.8.30-9.00am is a good time to leave. For the Bolavenmany times every 20km to discover the attractions I am going to present 50km/day option. Stops can last 10 minutes to 2h or moreI recommend not driving faster than40km/h is enough to safely enjoy the landscapes & local life.

**JMC: Jewish Mothers' Comity

rDirection for the Loops: clockwise or counterclockwise

There are now many gas stations everywhereLandscape views are pretty the same → no matter the direction.

How to choose then? → The main reason for recommending night, combined with the number of km you'd like to drive per dayDo not drive 100 in a row, it is absurd:Some of them are short, some of them need time. → For a better understanding, keep an eye on my map page 3 suggestions below with your other eye.

There are many gh, hotels & resortsstay in some areas more than othersavailable accommodations), for their close area).

N.B. None of these loops are possible by bus.overnights out of Paksé). Lao drivers know some places but not all of them. In brackets, approx. number of km traveled (first from Paksé, then from previous overnight place)

Clockwise (100) – 2 nights → Day 1: Phoung Tai (15km) or in the 4 sisters Clockwise (50) – 3 nights → Day 1: Overnight in Kok Phoung Tai (35km); Day 3: Ovn. in Counterclockwise (100) – 2 nights → 2: Ovn. in Tad Lo (15km or 0km) – Way back to Paksé 90km Counterclockwise (50) – 3 nights → Phoung Tai (60km) or in Tad Lo (75km) 90km

NKM Mekong Homestay in Paksé -

& Speed Limit! life starts and ends early: 6am & 11pm in Paksé (8pm in small towns and villages

In Paksé there is a lot of traffic between 7.30 & 8.30am and 4 to 5.30pm (schools, regular jobs…).aware that the sun goes down around 6pm all year long. It is dark at 6.30pm.

9.00am is a good time to leave. For the Bolaven, the idea is to drive approx. many times every 20km to discover the attractions I am going to present you.

or more. I've personally stopped 16 years ago. I know, than 60km/h on good roads & 30km/h on bad trails.

safely enjoy the landscapes & local life.

clockwise or counterclockwise?

There are now many gas stations everywhere → no matter the direction (clockwise or counterclockwise).no matter the direction.

for recommending the direction of the loop is related to the place, combined with the number of km you'd like to drive per day (50km or 100km)

Do not drive 100 in a row, it is absurd: there are many stops & visits on the waySome of them are short, some of them need time.

For a better understanding, keep an eye on my map page 3 – Southern Laos Highlights suggestions below with your other eye.

s or lodges, homestays where to stay (cf. "Nmore than others (they are circled on the map), for convenient reasons (dis

), for their beauty and over more for their size (many activities on

None of these loops are possible by bus. + With a private car and a driver several of the loops may be expovernights out of Paksé). Lao drivers know some places but not all of them.

In brackets, approx. number of km traveled (first from Paksé, then from previous overnight place)

– Suggestions for the Small Loop –

: Overnight in Tad Lo (90km) ; Day 2: Ovn. the 4 sisters area (60km). – Way back to Paksé 115km or 100km or 40km

Overnight in B. Houay Houn (70km) ; Day 2: Ovn. in: Ovn. in the 4 sisters area (75km or 60km) – Way back to Paksé 40km

→ Day 1: Overnight at Kok Phoung Tai (105km) Way back to Paksé 90km

→ Day 1: Overnight in the 4 sisters area (40km) (75km) ; Day 3: Overnight in Tad Lo (15km or 0km)

and villages). pm (schools, regular jobs…).

the idea is to drive approx. 100km/day, by stopping

you. I have recently settle a

I know, that's a long stop. & 30km/h on bad trails.

JMC** approved

no matter the direction (clockwise or counterclockwise).

the place(s) where to spend the or 100km).

here are many stops & visits on the way (from 3 to 5 or more).

Southern Laos Highlights Map – and read my

N" on the map). I recommend to reasons (distance & number of

(many activities on the site or in the

With a private car and a driver several of the loops may be expensive (many

in Tad Lo (0km) or at B. Kok Way back to Paksé 115km or 100km or 40km

: Ovn. in Tad Lo (20km) or at Way back to Paksé 40km

(105km) or in Tad Lo (90km) ; Day

(40km) ; Day 2: Overnight at Kok (15km or 0km) – Way back to Paksé


Clockwise (100) – 3 nights → Day 1: Tad Lo (0km) ; Day 3: Ovn. at Tad Tayicsua Clockwise (100 + 50) – 4 nights → Day 1or Tad Lo (0km) ; Day 3: Ovn. at Tad Tayicsua Way back to Paksé 40km Counterclockwise (100) – 3 nights →(125km) or Kok Phoung Tai (110km) Counterclockwise (50 + 100) – 4 nights Tayicsua (55km) ; Day 3: Ovn. in Kok Phoung Tai 90km

There are many possible combinationsI can't walk long, I can't ride a bicycletravel with kids, I have only one pair of underwear…"It is therefore very difficult to freeze one My Dream Loop? – I would stay one week and more in th I know it's confusing and maybe stressfulI know that modern times offer us many convenient "one shot I also see that modern tools make us more and more lazy, until we are unable to read a map and get out of our comfort zone. I give you all my 15+ Lao experiences have taught meLaos in 4 pages. Sorry. Amen.

*VBC: Very Boring People Comity

Money and ATM

Although there are more and more ATM in

↑ Industrious Lao & Coffee Harvest ↓


– Suggestions for the Large Loop –

: Overnight in Tad Lo (90km) ; Day 2: Ovn. in at Tad Tayicsua (110km or 125km) – Way back to Paksé 95km

Day 1: Overnight in Tad Lo (90km) ; Day 2: Ovn. at Tad Tayicsua (110km or 125km) ; Day 4: Ovn. in

→ Day 1: Overnight at Tad Tayicsua (95km) (110km) ; Day 3: Ovn. Tad Lo (0km or 15km) – Way back to Paksé 90km

4 nights → Day 1: Ovn. in the 4 sisters area (40km) : Ovn. in Kok Phoung Tai (110km) ; Day 4: Ovn. Tad Lo

There are many possible combinations – as much as there are travelers' profiles: "I can't drivea bicycle, I have a tiny budget, I am vegetarian, I have a little time,

travel with kids, I have only one pair of underwear…" one Type of Loop or Go & Back.

in the area.

I know it's confusing and maybe stressful for you. I know that modern times offer us many convenient "one shot solutions". I also see that modern tools make us more and more lazy, until we are unable to read a map and get out of our comfort

I give you all my 15+ Lao experiences have taught me and I do not want to simplify, to reduce & summarize Southern

***

Although there are more and more ATM in Laos, it is wiser to get money in Paksé.Atm are sometimes out of order or do not have any money left.I do not have any credit card: I do not know much about maximums, fares & taxes. Notice that jewelries (selling yellow-orange 24 karats gold) change money (in fact this is their main activity).It is easier to pay in kip (1€ = 10.000 kip) but Lao also use Thai Baht notes.

Trick & Tips: Keep a 500 kip note as souvenoldest note (80's), and the only one with the hammer and sickle.500 kip = 0,05€

in Kok Phoung Tai (15km) or Way back to Paksé 95km

: Ovn. in Kok Phoung Tai (15km) : Ovn. in the 4 sisters area (55km) –

(95km) ; Day 2: Ovn. in Tad Lo Way back to Paksé 90km

(40km) ; Day 2: Overnight at Tad (15km) – Way back to Paksé

as much as there are travelers' profiles: "I can't drive a scooter, I have a little time, I travel alone, I

I also see that modern tools make us more and more lazy, until we are unable to read a map and get out of our comfort

and I do not want to simplify, to reduce & summarize Southern

VBPC* approved

Laos, it is wiser to get money in Paksé. Atm are sometimes out of order or do not have any money left. I do not have any credit card: I do not know much about

orange 24 karats gold) change oney (in fact this is their main activity).

€ = 10.000 kip) but Lao also use Thai

Keep a 500 kip note as souvenir. This is the ), and the only one with the

hammer and sickle.


Getting Ready… Are you ready to go? … What about the check list?

Rain & wind coat**

Walking shoes & slippers**

Flashlight**

Money**

Anti diarrheic**

Your teddy bear**

Rolling paper **

NKM lovely free guidebook** on your iphone

Books: "The book of the spirits" of Allan Kardec and "Nosso Lar" of Chico Xavier […] as you wish…

M-map n°II for the Bolaven** […] as you wish… ** Jewish Mothers' Comity recommendations

In the coming pages I am going to describe as precisely as I can or know, the Bolaven Attractions, in this clockwise order: 1, 2, 3, 4

Small Loop: 1, 2, 4 Big Loop: 1, 3, 4 +Bonus: The Deep Bolaven (North) I am going to these attractions by scooter, with my wife at the back (she might not come: like vampires, she avoids the sunlight). Average speed 40km/h ; Maximum speed 60km/h. Most of the roads are good with a little traffic, except in Paksé and between Paksé & Paksong. Remember that there are very few signs on the road. Some are only in Lao. Before and after bridges there are signs in English (name of the rivers). The name of the village is usually written in English or French on the school entrance walls. N.B. Shy Lao people won't make any effort to understand you. They'd prefer offering you a glass of beer. Schematically: The important crossroads are in bold

***

Small Loop 1

3

Big Loop

4

2

Paksong

Classic Loop Approx. 200 km

2+ nights

Houay Hé km 21

Thateng

Khouasèt

Beng

Paksé

Beng

Sekong

Khouasèt Thatheng

Khoum Kham

Paksong Houay Hé km 21

Paksé

Nong Oy

3+ nights

Large Loop Approx. 320 km



Blacksmiths

Between Km

the road (left & right) makes rudimental & fruits.Trick & Tips: on your way At the villages entrance,

These Lao people speak a dialect and believe in a ChristiThese people are very poor and make a living There are many rubber tree plantations in this area and also pineapples, rambutans & durians.There are several small trails - mainly going left (North)tracks" trails is another way to have great experiences.Trick & Tips: Walk or ride a little in these trails Back to the main road (R. 16E), you can't miss the huge hundred meters further on, there is the Ban Houay Hé Village (Km 21) crossroadsBolaven Plateau clockwise? → Turn on the left

JapaneseBridgeDao Market

Mekong River

Sedon River

Road 13

Paksé Downtown

Blacksmith & Artifact Paksé

Rubber tree plantation &

Trails

4

2

1

3

Small & Big Loop (part 1)



We are going East. Road 13 & Road 38 meet around km 9. i.e. Km zero is Vat Thaluang Temple Downtown… even if in 2017 the authorities have made a sign "Paksé Km 0" next to the roundabout of The C

Between Km 11 and Km 21 (Ban Houay Hé ບານ ຫວຍແຫthe road (left & right) makes rudimental iron tools and sell different local artifacts & fruits. It's nice to stop a bit to watch the blacksmiths working.Trick & Tips: Buy a machete for 2-3€ and offer it to a poor old lady you will meet on your way.

villages entrance, notice the wooden arch with a cross: These Lao people speak a dialect and believe in a Christian-Animism religion mix.These people are very poor and make a living from the forest & plantations. There are many rubber tree plantations in this area and also pineapples, rambutans & durians.

mainly going left (North) - in or around the villages.tracks" trails is another way to have great experiences. Trick & Tips: Walk or ride a little in these trails, and come back.

, you can't miss the huge Dao Coffee Factory on hundred meters further on, there is the Ban Houay Hé Village (Km 21) crossroads

→ Turn on the left to Rd 20 ↓

Japanese Bridge

Road 13 Stadium

Paksé Golf

NKM

Road 38

Batchieng Golf

South

Road 13

Km 8 S BS M

Km 9

Blacksmith & Artifact Villages

Ban Houay Hé Km 21

Rubber tree plantation & other fruits

Bachieng

Trails

Trails

Road 20

i.e. Km zero is Vat Thaluang Temple Downtown… even if in 2017 the authorities have made a sign "Paksé Km 0" next to the roundabout of The Champasak Palace Hotel)

ຫວຍແຫ) several villages on

tools and sell different local artifacts acksmiths working.

€ and offer it to a poor old lady you will meet

wooden arch with a cross: Christian villages. Animism religion mix.

There are many rubber tree plantations in this area and also pineapples, rambutans & durians. in or around the villages. Following the "off the bitten

on the right (South); and few hundred meters further on, there is the Ban Houay Hé Village (Km 21) crossroads (Rd 16E & Rd 20).

Bolaven Km 9

Ban Houay Hé Km 21

Paksong Road 16E


Enjoy the Road 20 for 10 km before arriving to Muang Bachieng ມ. ບາຈ�ງ (big) village. Huge rubber tree

plantations (latex) are everywhere. There are many large good & shady trails going in the plantations: impressive. It is usually possible to get in (even if it is private)… It is also possible to get lost. Trick & Tips: I like entering those plantations. In the morning it can be very busy with the harvest (latex comes out the trees when the weather is cool: in the very early morning).

Confidence * 31 (21 + 10 = km 31): misknown rapids

Muang Batchieng is 31km from Paksé and is 2,5km long to the next bridge [In Laos many villages are elongated with houses along the main road. At the back: fields, plantations and usually a small river]. At the beginning of Bachieng, on the right (East), there is a sign "Tad Vang Yang 1700m". Lao meters must be different from the international ones: the waterfall is 2,5km down in real. It is not a real waterfall but rapids. It's a place for locals to bath and picnic on weekends. The trail is slippery in rainy season. Trick & Trips for braves: park your scooter on the main road in front of a shop and walk down there (2,5km x2).

Confidence 33 (31 + 2 = km 33)

Once you've passed Batchieng, the road goes down* to the Batchieng Bridge crossing Houay Champi River. Before & after the bridge, as usual, there a sign with the English name of the river. Close to the bridge there is now a restaurant. They have small &

large tables* by the river.

Trick & Trips: At the time there was no restaurant, I used to stop at the bridge and go down to the river to look at villagers bathing, cleaning their scooter, washing up etc. = Lao local life nearby a river. Whatever river you cross remember this trick… Hurry backpackers unfortunately rush and miss genuine sceneries.

Once you've passed the bridge, the road goes up (steeply)*, 500m

up there is a paved road on the left (West) going to the beautiful Tad

Pasuam ຕາດ ຜາສວມ (2km). ***

Basic Geo Lao Words:

… ຕາດ Tad means waterfall, rapids or cataract.

… ບານ Ban (or ບ. B.) means Village

… ເມ ອງ Muang (or ມ. M.) means Town or

District (it is usually the headquarter-village of an area)

… ຫ. H. = ຫວຍ Houay means river or stream

… ແຄລອດ Kèlot means carrot (maybe not that useful on the road, but who knows…)

* KULTUR! - Lao people have

breakfast, lunch & dinner on a carpet on

the floor. If not, they will eat on a ຕ�ງ

Tiang : it looks like a bed for 3-4 persons, but it is a table outside of the house: eating, chatting, napping, cooking…

* From Batchieng to Tad Lo there are

about 9 river crossings. The road is steep down & up each time there is a river. There are usually nice genuine Lao local life sceneries by the river.

* unknown places → I call them "confidences"

unknown ways to enjoy them → I call them "Trick & Trips"

26km from Mr Vieng ↑

31km from Paksé ↓

� Tad Champi 11km

Small village

Tad Pasuam 2km

1 km

1 km

Houay Cham Py River

Bachieng Village 2,5km long

2,5 km

Houay Champi

Restaurant

Tad Vang Yang

Bachieng Bridge

Road 20


Tad Pasuam ຕາດ ຜາສວມ

Bolaven plateau is the kingdom of waterfalls: they can be high, large, tiny, dry, flowered, luxurious, wild, swimmable, accessible or not etc. The nearest classic waterfalls are about 35km from Paksé (except misknown Tad

Syda, 15km from the town, cf. Paksé-Guidebook): Tad Itou is on the road to Paksong in the 4-Sisters area (counterclockwise loop). Tad Pasuam is near Muang Batchieng village.

Tad Pasuam (literally in Lao "squat toilet", because of its shape) is not only a waterfall. It is a site. Big enough to make a map! Everything is cleverly done, natural architecture & made of stone or wood or bamboo, such as the suspension bridge (18m long), Ethnic houses (5 different kinds), pass ways… The site is surrounded by big trees in a jungle like forest. → It is possible & easy to bath upstream. It is not allowed to jump in the basin (5m high).

I recommend the place, but few tourists go there (except Thai) … listening to detractors saying that the site is

a human zoo*).

On weekends buses of Thai people stop in the place for few minutes: 100 selfies in front of the waterfall, sometimes a quick lunch and then they go somewhere else. No harm. Why Thai people and not other tourists? A Thai man is the creator. He is now blind and has sold the site to Muang Batchieng. Unfortunately, I would not be surprised if the place soon falls into disuse.

→ Do not miss to visit the restaurant and its surprising tables… Even the toilets worth the visit!

→ The Ethnic Village-Museum* has an architectural interest.

→ Do not miss the walk (cf. red itineraries bellow ↓). It is easy to enjoy the site for 2 hours.

ຫມາກບກ (Mak Bok) - 0,50€/100g -

Dica nut (irvingia gabonensis tree, aka ogbonot nut) is a sort of almond. It is grilled with salt. A free pdf doc about all the Lao fruits I know is available in the NKM Library (4 languages)

The entrance fee (+ parking) is ridiculous 1 or 2€ ***

Parking

Forest & Jungle

Saola Deers

Waterfall 2

Bamboo

Ethnic Village - Museum

Car &

bamboo

bridge

Bungalows

Houay Cham Pi

River

Restaurant

Entrance

Tad Pasuam

Swimming area upstream

Tad Pasuam

Site Map

Sellers area

* In order to preserve Ethnic Architectural

Traditions, the owner asked villagers to build nice houses. These people were living quite far in the hills and mountains; he invited them to settle in the new village: with the Thai tourists, it is a source of income for them and the forest & lands nearby are exploited & cultivated. Some may say it is a fake village. I prefer saying it is a sort of lively museum. The villagers sell beautiful fabrics & basic wooden music instruments in the village. Other sellers propose drinks & surprising food-snacks, such as grilled bee larvae in hives and dika nut (sort of Lao almonds from a giant tree: irvingia gabonensis).


Tad Champi � Back on the main road (Road 20), turn on the left to continue the trip. 1km further on notice the trail on the left. It goes to Tad Champi – 11 km � dusty/muddy/rocky trail.

If you have time and if you are curious, it is an adventure. I do not remember it was so difficult… but I must confess that I have not been there for years. Most of travelers skip it. It can be a little bit confusing because there are 2 waterfalls with the same name: this one is Tad Champi… the other one, close to Tad Fan & the Road 16E (38km from Paksé) is the touristic Tad Champee.

↑ On my pocket maps there are � "storm light" on several trails to show if the way is difficult, and why.

On my pocket maps there are #P or #T or #C next to highlights such as

waterfalls. The idea is to explain in a glance what kind of people go to this & that spot. For instance, Tad Pasuam has a #P = the visitors are mainly Thai or Lao. Tad Lo has a #T = the visitors are mainly westerners. Tad Champi has a #C (usually with a � on the trail) = the place is not really visited and still wild… mostly because the access is difficult.

***

Ban Houay Houn ບ. ຫວຍຫນ & Katu (Ethnic Group) Homestay (Mr Vieng)

There are nice sceneries and views from the Road 20: villages and the edge of the plateau far away on the right (East & South). 24 km after Tad Pasuam, there is another steep part: down-bridge-&-river-up: Houay Houn River. 2 km further on: Ban Houay Houn village. It is a katu ethnic group village, well-known for colorful fabrics (like in Tad Pasuam) and it is now famous with the help of Mr Vieng "Fresh Coffee Katu Homestay". There are many signs on the way. Nobody misses it and there are usually many westerners' scooters parked in the coffee plantation. It is a beautiful house all made of wood. It is said the coffee it good (I am far to be neither specialist nor amateur). The family also sells peanuts (some of them roasted with lemongrass & kaffir lime leaves) and more or less homemade fabrics. Mr Vieng speaks good English and proposes a short tour (less than 1h - 1,5€/pers.) in the coffee plantation and the village surroundings, explaining coffee process, plants virtues and invite the visitors to taste some red

ants* (cf next page) for breakfast on the walk.

NB : Coffe Mr Vieng serves is not from his plantation. He selects & buys unroasted beans from Paksong and he roasts them himself with a wok. He sometimes organizes workshops. Why? – Ban Houay Houn altitude is not enough for high quality coffee. As Mr Vieng wants to sell good coffee, he gets it from the higher plantations. Coffe can grow everywhere – we have some trees in our garden in Paksé (100m alt.) – but the climate & altitude do not make good beans. Coffee from low altitudes is bought by big factories to make lyophilized cheaper coffee etc. To me, espresso in Southern Laos is quite expensive: usually 1€ minimum Strangely, my best coffee experience was in Champasak in a "copy & @ shop": beans from high altitude and Japanese roast process in Vientiane. It also was the cheapest (less than 1€). See Champasak Guidebook.


Going by bus (Tad Pasuam, Ban Houay Houn, Tad Lo… Terminus: Salavan) Buses to Salavan ສາລະວນ can stop you wherever you want on the road. As I am not sure about the possibility to spend the night in Tad Pasuam, I would not recommend this stop.

Some travelers would stop to Ban Houay Houn ບ. ຫວຍຫນ and stay with Mr Vieng family (it is in the

"Homestay Southern Laos listing" article on our website) - less than 1h from Paksé -, and would take the same bus-

route to come back to Paksé or to continue the trip to Ban Khouasèt ບ. ຂວເສດ = Tad Lo ຕາດເລາະ - 2h from

Paksé - The bus stops in front of Ban Khouasèt market (2€/pers.) and Tad Lo site & gh is 1,5km further (South). They must be a tuk-tuk service (1-2€/pers.). Cf. Tad Lo page.

By Scooter or Private car After "Mr Vieng Pause" continue East on the Road 20 and enjoy the next destination…that most of the travelers miss.

* ມດແດງ Weaver Ants - Oecophylla smaragdina

Weaver ants live in trees (especially mango trees) and are known for their unique nest building behavior where workers construct nests by weaving together leaves using larval silk. Weaver ants vary in color from reddish to yellowish brown dependent on the species. Bites can hurt but is not poisonous. Weaver ants are one of the most valued types of insects eaten by humans. In

addition to being used as a biological control agent to increase plant production, weaver ants can be utilized directly as a protein and food source since the ants – especially the ant larvae & eggs

ໄຂມດແດງ – are edible for humans and high in protein, fatty acids & vitamin C.

Lao people also cook them in soups in addition to tamarind leaves & fruits (acidic).

It is even more delicious in omelets, usually steamed in banana/galangal or ginger leaves: ໝກ "Môk".

***

Ban Houay Houn (Tai) Village

To Laognam (10 km), Ban Khouasèt & Salavan →

Mr Vieng Family House Houay

Kapheu

River

← To Tad Pasuam,

Batchieng, Ban Houay Hé

River = Steep road down & up

+ bridge Province limit between

Champasak Province

& Salavan Province


Laognam is a weird big village, as weird as Bachieng, Thateng, Paksong, Nong Oy. It is only 10 km after Ban Houay Houn. As it is a bigger village, you may find atm, gas stations, market, gh etc. Your next beautiful destination is 5 km after Lao Gnam, on the right (South). It may have a sign "Green Zone". Confidence Forest Vat Pa means "temple forest", and there are several in Southern Laos. Tam means "cave".

There may be a sign in Lao on the right, on the road:

ຖາຜ ດວດປາ "Tam Peut Vat Pa " and/or in English: "Green Zone".

The 1 km trail goes to Ban Bak Noy ບ. ບາກນອຍ & Ban Bak Yai ບ. ບາກໃຫຍ

Noy ນອຍ & Yai ໃຫຍ (small & big)

Kao ເກາ & Mai ໃຫມ (old & new)

Loum ລມ & Theung ເທ ງ (below & above)

Neua ເຫນ ອ & Tai ໃຕ (north & south)

Nork ນອກ & ໃນ Nai (outside & inside)

These Lao words are often used for villages and rivers.

Different names for a same village cut in two parts.

Trick & Tips: Once you are in the cute village, park in front of a shop (as usual) and walk to the holy site in the forest.

There are many funny colorful statues along the aisle and giant buttress trees (circumference = 15m!).

It is a mystic place: I love it.

The temple has minor interest.

There is a very small cave at the back. It is not recommended to go down the cave because of the toxic air that comes out (carbon dioxide in high concentration), but during some seasons or moments of the day one would not feel anything. For instance: I could not breathe in November 2015, but I could easily go down and stay in the cave in February 2018.

To me, the village & the giant trees are the main attractions.

***

Laognam Village

ເລ າງາມ

Ban Houay Houn Village

ບ. ຫວຍຫນ

Mr Vieng

Family

House

26 km Tad Pasuam

ຕາດ ຜາສວມ

5km Ban Sandong

ບ. ສນດງ & 9km Ban

Khouasèt Village

ບ. ຂວເສດ

Deep Bolaven (North)

5 km

10 km

Vat Pa & Green Zone

(Ban Ben Po Poun)

ຖາຜດວດປາ

Road 20


Altitude & Plantations : From Paksé to Ban Houay Houn (Mr Vieng) you may notice different plantations. Rubber trees (to get the latex) Tapioca Plants (manioc, mainly used for food industry as thickener). Peanut Plants. Lao people dry these fruits under the sun, in front of their house. Between Ban Houay Houn & Laognam you may notice more coffee trees, but the altitude is not high. Between Laognam & Tad Lo there are no coffee tree plantations. From Ban Kok Phoung Tai (Mr Hook), to Thateng & to Paksong (and further on, there is the real Bolaven plateau. Between Ban Beng Phou Kham & Paksong (large loop), you may notice coffee and orange. If the altitude is very low (in the plain) you may notice ricefields, Teak, Rubber tree plantations and tapioca.

Rubber tree plantation & Latex

Coffee Flowers & Red Beans

Peanut Plant & Arachids

Tapioca Leaves & Roots

Altitude & plantations along the 220 km small loop route

***

Paksé

Blacksmith

Ban Houay Houn Laognam

Tad Lo

Thatheng Paksong

Paksé

1200m

500 m

Lowlands Plain Level 100 m

Ban Kok Phung Tai

The 4 Sisters Area

Coffee & Tea

Tapioca & Peanuts

Rubber Trees Tapioca & Peanuts

B. Sandong

B. Houay Hé

Tapioca & Peanuts

Batchieng

100 m

500 m

Plateau 1200m


Tad Lo…! Endlessly…! For many travelers "Bolaven Plateau" = "Tad Lo"… but I have needed 18 pages to finally arrive there… Notice that Tad Lo Site is absolutely not on the plateau (1200m) & that its altitude (330m) is closer to Paksé altitude (90m). But don't worry! Tad Lo is a very nice peaceful place with many activities, French fries & saucisson.

Reaching Tad Lo ຕາດເລາະ – 2 ways

Trick & Tips:

From Vat Pa, go back to the main road (n°20), continue the loop for 5km: you arrive at Ban Sandong ບ. ສນດງ

There is an official tourism sign saying "Ban Sanone Trekking Village"… Sandong or Sanone?! Holy sh…

Keep calm & let me be clear… what is better than a map for that?

I am bothering you with these villages names because this is where I make a difference between the "Classic Route "

& "My Way".

Many drivers go straight, but I go first to Tad Soung waterfall or not, but I love driving down the other route with nice panoramas.

I have recently figured out there was 4 villages with nearly the same name: Sandong ບ. ສນດງ (but the sign

says Sanone) and Saneun ບ. ສະນ ນ (I personally write it this way, like the real Lao writing… but the officials may have made a mistake: they wrote Sanone).

Briefly ! = 5 km after Vat Pa, pass through Ban Sandong and at the end of the village turn right on the other paved road (whereas most of the travelers just go straight on Road 20). There may be a sign indicating the "Dam". Go to Tad Soung or not... but go down from the "Panorama Route".

Whyyy?

– Because I love driving down that curvy road with many panoramas… the road goes from 540m to 330m altitude in 4km

By bus

From Paksé "km 8 Southern Bus Station" the bus to Salavan will stop you in Ban Khouasèt ບ. ຂວເສດ in front

of the market (there is an ATM that does not work everyday…), pretty close to Tad Lo gh & resto area (1,5km). Walk or Tuk-tuk (1-2€/pers.).

N.B.: Bus Drivers know Tad Lo as a tourist place… but how many times have you read it already in this guidebook? More than ten times maybe… and what about the phonetic? You may have read it wrongly ten times.

ຕາດເລາະ "Tad Lo" is not "Tad Low" but "Tad Lor"… if you say "Tad Low" Lao people won't understand you.

For whatever reason, it has been written "Tad Lo" from the beginning.

I know, I am a pest, but I love you.

***

Lao Gnam

10km

Panorama(s)

Bridge

Deep Bolaven

My way with Franck Sinatra

1km

4km 1km

4km Ban Sandong

Alt. 540m

Sé Sèt River

Tad Soung

Waterfall

Alt. 520m

Bridge

Tad Hang (one way bridge)

& Tad Lo Alt. 330m

Loop route

(Ban Beng, Salavan, Thatheng)

Ban Khouatsèt

(atm & market)

Alt. 330m

Guesthouses

& Restos

3km

Classic Route

3 Ban Saneun

Villages! Dam

Road 20

Road 20


Tad Lo(r) & Tad Hang ຕາດເລາະ & ຕາດຮງ

Tad Lo is a site, I mean it is big enough to stay there one full day. There are several activities: more than 10 gh & hotels, restaurants, many other tourists to chat with, a river, bathing, waterfalls, Ethnic group villages (Alak), walks, trekking, fishing, zipline and elephants.

The waterfall close to the gh area is Tad Hang ຕາດຮງ.

Tad Lo waterfall ຕາດເລາະ is a little bit south: go there by foot (many lost scooter reports). There is no gh close to Tad Lo waterfall.

You can swim here and there easily, ask locals. N.B. Lao are very shy and swim with their clothes on: respect them by wearing shorts and a tee-shirt while bathing.

There is a one way metal bridge and there are bamboo bridges (normally free crossing) to cross the river.

There is a 0,50€ fee for the bamboo bridge close to Tad Lo waterfall. Locals built and rebuilt it every year: help locals.

Many travelers stay there at least 2 nights (Day 1, you just arrive there; Day 2, you explore the site), but many visitors have fallen in love with the site and stay longer.

You may have visited Tad Soung ຕາດສງ Day 1 (following My Way), but I recommend also to walk up there thanks to paths & trails. The trail can be slippery and steep: from 330m to 520m in 400m!

Tad Soung is usually dry (there is dam upstream). They open the dam from time to time: Careful. No accident ever reported.

In rainy season it is a powerful & high waterfall (100m).

Tad Soung is 4km away from the gh area by foot with the trails, & 7 or 8km if you take the road.

Elephant bathing takes place everyday around 4-5pm in front of the Tad Lo Lodge Hotel (300m from the gh area road: Tad Lo tourist area is not really big, but with the different walks & waterfalls or rapids, it is big enough to enjoy it few days).

Elephants seem to be happy there (they barely go on trekking), and they sure enjoy the bath.

This activity is peaceful, romantic, surprising… and it's free!

Confidence Roots

Up north to Ban Khouasèt, there is a misknown rapids area Tad Vang Kham (cf picture): natural basins, rapids, jungle… it used to be an official very Lao happy place, but a young Lao died there in 2016: Lao people do not go back to rivers full of ghosts.

There is a jump point (5m high), but there are also rocks under water here and there. Locals know where to jump, ask them.

I like the place for the roots… the tree roots in and out of the water… but as I am a little bit crazy-romantico-nut, you should not listen to me.

If you stay in Tad Lo site few days you should go there once (by foot or by scooter).

It is also possible to find peaceful untouched river spots upstream, up to the dam.

Tad Soung Panorama


Sleeping & Eating in Tad Lo

Where? – In the Guesthouse Area, there are many restaurants and they are all cheap. There may be too many gh & restos for the number of tourists… so… "supply & demand"… prices go down easily. Tad Lo is a tourist place (promoted in the 2000's) but it is far to be crowded. It is still peaceful and authentic thanks to the village local life and because Southern Laos is a huge tourist area where travelers are diluted here and there (unlike Luang Prabang) in & around Champasak, in Paksé, in the 4000 Islands and in the Bolaven loops.

Let's be clear and honest: I do not like talking about where to eat & where to sleep. There are already many tools on the net for that. I have preferred to edit a guidebook about what to eat (translation in process). My purpose is to share misknown tips and Lao Culture Facts.

Tad Lo Tourism Office is a beautiful house in the middle of the site. Ask for Mr Kuka who is helpful & speaks very good English: They organize full day trekking. I know one close to Ban Sandong, around Phou Tak Krao Mountain ພຕາກເຂ າ Famous places in Tad Lo…

Palamei GH (phonetic: palamee) is famous for the family dinners. It is a nice, clean, a bit cosy but cheap place.

Fandee GH has simple & cheap bungalows. I love the restaurant architecture. Frenchy-froggy Loïc is the owner. He also serves saucisson, Belgium beers & maybe some cheese. From October 2018 Loïc & friends have opened another project on an island in Tad Lo site (a small dam has shaped an island): restaurant, fishing in the pond, zipline, forest… this new place is very beautiful: everything is made of wood or natural materials. The long term project is also to open a vocational & English school in the island.

Salomyen = very basic bungalows on the river: lovely & basic.

Some advisors talk about Mama-Pap's cuisine… I have never understood why. My daughter likes having French fries there… and Mama is friendly… but who's not in Laos?

Tad Lo Lodge is a bit more expensive & cozy.

Etc. There are many other restaurants & gh, and there is no place to avoid… On the other hand, I have heard that Saysee GH (phonetic Saisé) is not friendly. Go there and experience it by yourself.

Trick & Tips – "Kapitalists?! = yummy!" –

Tad Lo is not at a very high altitude but it can be a little cold in the evening (December-February), therefore, I would recommend to have dinner to the funny

"Eat the Rich" restaurant: they serve ຊ ນດາດ "Sinlat" – Some call it "Lao sukiyaki". →

In the middle of the table there is a hole for the fireplace hearth. A metal dome (bbq grill + hotpot) is put on the fire and they you cook your own meat, noodles, herbs etc. with a peanut sauce. It is not spicy.

It can be hot in the restaurant. Though there are fabulous restaurants like this one in Paksé, it may be cleaver to have the dish in the Bolaven where the weather is cool & sometimes cold.

"Eat the Rich" isn't in Tad Lo gh area but on the way to Khouasèt village →

***

Khouasèt Village

Tad Lo gh Area

Eat the Rich! Restaurant

500m

1km


(Muang) Salavan ເມອງ ສາລະວນ (Bonus 1)

From Tad Lo, some travelers may visit Salavan 30km North. It is not on the loop. A few drivers go there, and I must admit that I do not know much about it. I've heard the market is full of Ethnic tribe people. Salavan's atmosphere may be similar to Attapeu's. It is quiet but not as weird as Laognam, Thateng, Paksong etc. … but some people like what is weird to me.

Going deeper in that area…

1) 20km from Tad Lo & 10 from Salavan (road 20), there is a 19km trail going South. There is a sign on the road: Tad Thévada ນ າຕກຕາດເທວະດາ

It is a wild & confidential waterfall… because the 19km trail is very unpleasant and difficult �

2) From Salavan another loop is possible. The trail is also difficult (= wild lanscapes) and goes around Phou Katé Mountain. 50 km of trail going East then South, and you would arrive at Road 16 (Thateng-Sekong road).

I haven't done it yet. The day I wanted to go there, I asked questions to the Tourism Office in Salavan: they were playing pétanque and drinking beers…

3) My friend (Mr Sander: Don Som Riverside gh) has explored the North of Salavan area around the famous Ta Oy & Ho Chi Minh trail… Ask him.

4) From Salavan you can also reach Road 13 Paksé-Luang Prabang – Road 13 is the spine of Laos. It may sound crazy but I have done it… Dry lowlands landscapes… nothing more. A 90km scooter trip. In the middle there are refreshing rapids "Keng Kou". It must be very surprising to Lao people to meet foreigners there.

5) Salavan tourism authorities are about to open new attractions: caves & waterfalls…

Stay tune!

***

Trip 3)

Salavan

Trip 4)

Trip 2)

Classic Loop

Trip 1)

Ban Beng

Tad Lo

The Lowlands paradox Rice Fields are beautiful from July to September… but Trails are too muddy.

Trails are ok from October to May… but Rice Fields are dry and sad.

The only way to enjoy beautiful Rice Fields + Nice Trails = irrigated fields.

You will need to go to Champasak for that (cf. specific guidebook)


Leaving Tad Lo for good! Most of travelers continue the loop by going to Ban Beng ບານ ແບງ, turn on the right (South) to finally reached Thateng ເມ ອງ ທາແຕງ and from this weird small town they go either for the small loop either the big one. The road to Ban Beng is flat ; and from Ban Beng to Kok Phoung Tai ບານ ກກພງໃຕ the road is steep, going from 300m altitude to 800m in only 10km (+9km = Thateng).

Ban Kok Phoung Tai ບານ ກກພງໃຕ – Katu Village (Mr Hook) – It may be the most difficult village name to pronounce five times in a row, faster & faster. This village is now famous thanks to Mr Hook (aka Captain Hook…). ← Mr Hook is a small katu man who speaks very good English and proposes surprising tours in & around the village, homestay, a new wooden gh with a great view of the mountain, where it is also possible to trek with a local guide (you can trek to "secret" waterfalls such as Tad Vangla & Tad Fai Mai).

Mr Hook may be a little too talkative (especially about coffee history) but he has many "natural" tricks and surprising information about local plants & Katu traditions. Cheap fee (1-2€/pers.): about 2h If you are highly interested about coffee there are other informative tours elsewhere (cf. next page) The village is surrounded by coffee plantations and Mr Hook family serves the drink in bamboo cups. They also organize family dinners (about 15 people live in the same house!). Though this village has something weird, I would recommend staying one night (probably 5€/pers.). There is also a cheap fee to enter the village (1€/pers.). "Weird" again?! You bloody Franch have only one word in your vocabulary, do you? → The village is very poor, but there are quite a few clean & well-equipped tourists visiting it: contrast! → The whole tribe in rags is placidly smoking "tobacco bangs" in every circumstances (cf. picture)… → Katu traditions = Middle-Ages like. → Old women with heavy baskets on their back live the village in early morning to get food from the forest while men chat all day long.. → In rainy season, the mud is so sticky that you walk with heavy moon boots. In short, if you are keen on wanderlust, you'll be served...!

5 9

Big Loop

Thateng

Small Loop

Mr Hook

Ban Kok Phoung Tai

Ban Khouasèt

Ban Beng 10

Salavan 25


Coffee Tours & Worshops

Mr Vieng & Mr Hook roast coffee in a basic traditional way. There are sharper tours on the plateau: Mr Koffie (from Netherlands; Paksong) – 0 22760439 +web = paksong.info or meet him at WonCoffee Jhai Coffee (Paksong) – 45min or 3h tour – jhaicoffeehouse.com (Mr Jackie) Sinouk Coffee – sinoukcoffeeresort.com – Sinouk Coffee Garden & Resort is 6 km South from Thateng. CPC (Km40) – one full day: Tuesdays & Thursdays from November to March – [email protected] … Among others I do not know…

*** �Confidence : Fire ! Tad Fai Mai can be visited within Mr Hook trek (and probably Tad Lo Tourism Office trek) or by scooter from the road (2km from Ban K.P.T. & 7km from Thateng) There is a sign on the main road (on your right - South) between Ban Kok Phoung Tai and Thateng. "Tad Fai Mai" means "wood fire waterfall" and it is indeed quite hot to go there from the labyrinth trails: there is only one sign… but two others would be needed because of the 2 road bridles further on. Great view, as far as I remember… but I have not been there for a long time: ask locals & pray the Lord.

***

Thateng ທາແຕງ … Ban Beng → Ban Kok Phoung Tai → Thateng Famous Roundabout.

Go straight → Small Loop (Paksong ປາກຊອງ direction)

VS Turn left (East) → Big Loop (Sekong ເຊກອງ direction)

Small & Big Loop lead to Paksong … except if you go to Attapeu ອດຕະປ and come back to Paksé from Road 18A (where the dam collapsed in July 2018), passing by Ban Kiet Nong and Road 13 (Kiet Nong belongs to the Champasak area: cf. specific guidebook).

Thateng-(small loop)-Paksong = 35km

VS Thateng-(big loop)-Paksong = 140km

Small Loop: "Once upon a time Thateng-Paksong road… " (2) There is nothing special on this road (to me)… except nice landscapes, haunting flowers & plants fragrances, fresh air and unknown trails going right or left to the Deep Bolaven (cf next page) and other unknown wild waterfalls: Tad Mai Hia, Tad Konekane, Tad Mealouk, Tad Mouan, Tad

Kador, tad Houay Khot, Tad Yoy etc. N.B. "Unknown wild waterfalls" = difficult to find and to reach Some may like visiting and staying in Sinouk Garden & Resort or or in the colorful kitschy Thateng Farm & Resort. Both of them are 6km from Thateng on the road to Paksong. Sinouk Coffe sells coffee (no joke) Yamamoto Strawberry Farm sells strawberries (no joke) Thateng Farm sells take-away-cows-&-goats (joke)

***

4

2

1

3

Small Loop (part 2)


… The DEEEEEP BOLAVEN! (Bonus 2) As many other names, it is useless to try to find them in other books or the net: I have invented them. "Deep Bolaven", "Mekong Bamboo Trail", "4 Sisters Area", "Phou Mak Tchong Trekking", "H. Deua Walk" etc.

"[…] And God said, Let there be light: and there was light. And God saw the light, that it was good: and God divided the light from the darkness. And God called the light Day, and the darkness he called Night." But first, he asked permission to NKM…

99,999% of the travellers follow the paved roads and turn around the DBN & the DBSE. They are still to be explored. I have been in the DBN and I must admit that 1) the trails are �difficult (+��very difficult… ++ rainy

season = ��evil��) 2) it is a scooter trip for brave & curious travelers 3) I have not seen anything incredible. Except… the exceptional Mr Khamsone & its Mystic Mountain Coffee Farm (gh/homestay & jeep tours). He has many guests coming thanks to travel agencies (search for "Laos Mood" Tailor Made Travel for instance) for picturesque jeep tours. Mr Khamsone has also his own website. At MMC = coffee everywhere, avocados, tea, Ethnic villages, waterfalls, trekking, extinct volcano, trails for jeep or big motorbike… & fresh/cold air + rain → It is adventurous. Warning! …Maps… End 2016 Southern Laos Association edit a "free cycling map": very good idea, but… some itineraries are very difficult due to the rocky, muddy unpaved roads (= trails). I think the editor has never really been there. One itinerary goes straight from Paksong to Laognam but in real, one must turn left in Ban Houaysan… if not, one will surely get lost. Google map doesn't know much about the area (many names of villages & rivers are wrong). Maps-me doesn't know MMC yet and I am not sure they have the right villages' names. If you are keen on going there, I strongly recommend you my M-map II (there is a "Deep Bolaven" zoom), but even my work is far to be perfect.

***

Deep Bolaven North: I know a little bit

Classic Small & Big Loops

Laognam

Paksong Paksé

Thatheng Tad Lo

Deep Bolaven South -East No idea!

Deep Bolaven E ast: No idea!

Attapeu

Ban Beng Phou Kham

4

2

1

3


Back to Thateng: The Big Loop Does the big loop worth it? The small loop is already a nice trip. The big loop is approx. 100km longer: Beautiful sceneries on the road and several waterfalls. One of

the most beautiful is in Tad Tayicsua site ຕາດ ຕາຢ ກເສ ອ Road 16 passes through Sekong, Ban Beng Phou Kham and Road

16A through Ban Nong Oy (37km from Paksong). The road is very nice and some parts are beautiful, especially when the road is steep (Thateng-Sekong, 45km & Ban Beng Phou Kham-Ban Nong Oy, 35km).

***

Silk and Tea Farm : Maï Savanh Lao (big loop… and small loop: go & back) This farm is only 13km from Thateng. Even if you do not make the big loop, I recommend visiting Maï Savanh Lao.

Drive 10km to Ban Kapeu ບ. ກະປ and turn left to the unpaved road (North). There is a sign and the farm is

3km further on. They produce silkworms, mulberry trees, silk, tea, pepper, sacha inchi nut, spirulina, hibiscus. You can visit it with a guide (cheap fee) or by yourself; and the shop sells snacks they made from what they produce.

***

Sekong ເຊກອງ is 35km down, in the lowlands. It is a town as big as Salavan & Paksong.

Most of the travelers just go through it. There are 2 roads: one goes in the town & the other one goes around on the East. In Sekong there is a Bakery (Lao-German) with very good bread & cakes. In 2017, the authorities have built a bridge crossing the Sekong River: this road goes East in the mountains: Ethnic groups villages (Kaleum, Alak etc.) and beautiful mountain views. N.B. Sekong can be a good alternative for touchy & cozy travelers who need a proper room, bed, toilet and shower… because from Sékong to Paksong the gh are a bit rustic for some of our guests. Sometimes too dirty but usually the problem is: no warm communication, not clear one… and camping-tents in a wooden hall (it usually rains in the plateau) and toilets/shower outside.

***

Tad Fèk & Tad Sé Noy Waterfall

14km and 16km after Sekong, there are trails going left (East) to two waterfalls: Tad Fèk (or Faek) & Tad Sé Noy (aka Tad Houa Khon

ຕາດຫວຄນ = literally "waterfall-head-human"). Tad Sé Noy is more impressive than Tad Fèk. There are on the Sé Nam Noy River (not on the Sekong River). It is possible to swim & to stay for the night at the P&S Garden : beautiful site. A bit rustic… but nice enough to me.

***

4

2

1

3

Big Loop (part 3)


Crossroads: Road 16 + Road 16A + Road 11 (Bonus 3) Ban Beng Phou Kham village … aka "Ban Hassipsong" = "52-km-village" + aka "Ban Khoum Kham"… is 9km after Tad Sé Noy waterfall. There is the "crossroad village". Turn right to Road 16A to continue the big loop. Go straight on if you want to go to Attapeu (Road 11). Road 16A is new and very (very +very) beautiful. Road 11 has also beautiful landscapes. Not the Big Loop : Attapeu - Vietnam - Road 18A – blue & red roads ↓ – The road 11 goes along tsunami-mountains like: I like it.

There are the same landscape views on road 14A Paksé-Champasak. I have been in Attapeu (+ many villages) twice. I have stayed more than one week (Me-bloody-French was an English-Lao translator for a German GIZ supervisor… no joke!).

I have been in Attapeu and many villages but I have not found anything special. It is a nice quiet Lao town like Salavan… It may be a nice place if you are looking for real Lao life. Around Attapeu, the mountains villages are nice & very poor.

Some goes to Vietnam from Attapeu (110km). The landscapes through the mountains are beautiful too. South-West Attapeu: Road 18A (unpaved) goes to Sanamxay District & Town; Ban Hinlat; and finally to Ban Kiet Nong Village (elephants, trekking, bird watching). N.B. Kiet Nong area recommendations are in the Champasak Guidebook. A part of this road has been damaged in July 2018 (Dam collapsed). I do not know perfectly the area of road 18A. There is a large lake close to the road (North), and birds watching…

From Ban Hinlat ຫ ນລາດ there is a new unpaved road going North to Paksong (approx. 70km long). I have

not been there yet: I think landscapes may be nice. Close to Ban Hinlat (in the North, close to the new trail going to Paksong) there are 3 misknown waterfalls: Tad Séponglai (↓) Tad Samongphak, Tad Sépha.

Homestay was possible in Ban Hinlat & around but with the Dam collapse I do not know how is it now. Check it from Attapeu Tourism Office. As far as I know for now I would not recommend going on Road 18A: because of the catastrophe and because from 2017 the road is now large and dusty. On needs to be an adventurer.

***

Ban Beng Phou Kham

ບານ ແບງພຄ າ

Attapeu

ອດຕະປ

45km

Sekong

ເຊກອງ 25km

Ban Nong Oy

ໜອງຫອຍ 30km

R. 11

R. 16

R. 16A

Clockwise Direction

of the big loop

N.B. The red & white km markers on the

road sometimes show the number- name of

the road… Sometimes…

Road 11 Road 16 Road 16E Road 16A Road 18A New Trail (no name yet)

Paksé

Thateng

Paksong

Hinlat & Sanamxay

Sékong

Attapeu

Vietnam


The Big Loop (let's continue on Road 16A…) You may have turn right in Ban Beng Phou Kham ບານ ແບງພຄ າ and you drive the remarkable R. 16A. N.B. From Ban Beng Phou Kham to Paksong (70km) there are many gas stations.

Landscapes on this part of the road are breathtaking for the first 30km. Your beloved "bloody-French-man" was the first scribbler to put this road on a map in 2008… Ko-Ko-Ri-Ko… Now it is well known and quite a few travelers make the big loop and enjoy the views… … Thanks to this free-map ↓

*** May I thank you 100 times "Le Guide du Routard" for copying in 2017, my 2008 black-&-white map? ← The scale of that old map is wrong (hand-made), especially for the Tad Tayicsua part. See down here the correct scale: screen short of the new M-maps ↓

My purpose is to share… but some people are much clever than me and prefer to sell someone else's work…

Forgotten Waterfall & The "Dangerous" Haunted Katamtok Waterfall 16km from Ban Beng Phou Kham, I found a waterfall in 2005 (on the left - North). I have never found it again. 17km from B. BPK, on the right (South) Tad Sé Katamtok →

(aka Tad Sé Katam ຕາດເຊກະຕາມ) can be enjoyed from the distance. It is very high. There is a path going down the waterfall… but since 2016 some assaults have been reported: Since there is no gh or shop, the place is wild; and some burglars attacked tourists and stole their motorbikes. Since then very few braves stop there.

***


Instead of fighting, I recommend you having a fresh orange juice at the Thanathon Farm (km 19), before going to Tad Tayicsua crossroad (km 22). Crossroads Tad Tayicsua & Tad Alone + Tad Kou (aka Tad Couple) 4 or 5km from the haunted Tad Katamtok an unpaved road goes left (South) to three other waterfalls. This road is the "old Road" that the first French Bolaven exploratory Jules Harmand took in the XIXs to reach Champasak from Attapeu.

I think my map is clear enough (my maps are available in Paksé for 2€). Tad Tayicsua waterfall in one of the 11 waterfalls of the area… People say 7 waterfalls… but I saw 11 ones with Mr Souline's trekking in 2012. I recommend staying there one night. There is also a gh in

Tad Alone and several ones in Ban Nong Oy (Platinium gh, H.Thida gh, but there are not very cozy (heard that from our guests).

Tad Tayicsua ຕາຢ ກເສ ອ : the most beautiful waterfall of the Bolaven (?)

The waterfall(s) site is a dead-end: gh, tents, bungalows and restaurant.

The location is wonderful. Since there are 4 rivers together and steep landscapes, there are a lot of waterfalls. Cf. the topographic map ↓

The gh's owners have drawn very steep paths in the jungle to reach few of them. Tad Alang Waterfall may be the most beautiful of the plateau thanks to the pink flowers and the rainbow →

It would be very strange to me to go on the big loop and not stopping at Tad Tayicsua.

Since the place is a bit far and the trail-access is not that easy, the gh is not very well equipped and the food can be basic. Communication can be empty or unclear… The gh is basic (tents & rustic bungalows may be a bit expensive compare to the equipments: but you may pay the wild beauty of the site). Before November they may be not very well prepare for visitors.

I wish they will organize soon the same type of trekking I have done few years ago with the ex-owner, Mr Souline.

You can go here & there by yourself thanks to the paths and stairs. Be aware that the paths are steep and that it is a hard-work to maintain them in good condition in that particular weather: fresh, sometimes hot, sometimes cold, rainy, humid, and tropical. Plants may grow 10cm per day.

The site is wild and a bit off the beaten tracks. B. Nong Oy is not far (but a bit "sad") and you can get some food for yourself and come back to Tayicsua = DIY !

***


From Tad Tayicsua To Paksong : end of the big loop.

If you are not enough with waterfalls, There are 2 more: Tad Alone (aka Tad Dia-O) & Tad Couple (aka Tad Kou Paksong + aka Tad Oupasa, from the name of the village) – 5km from Tad Tayicsua and 3km & 2km

before Ban Nong Oy Houay Kong ບານ ໜອງຫອຍ (cf. small map↓)

Some recommend sleeping in Tad Tayicsua Site (me), some prefer the little cozier gh in Tad Alone; and some recommend staying in the weird Nong Oy village (Platinium gh, H. Thida gh and others).

To me Ban Nong Oy is a good source for supply (market, gas, pharmacy), but not more.

About 10km North from Nong Oy there is a new gh in Tong Vai village. They also have kayaking.

I have seen any very special places between Ban Nong Oy and Paksong: the weather is fresh and there are many coffee plantations.

Monta Champa Flower Farm on the 35km long road is a typical place for locals. 23km from Nong Oy, 11 km from Paksong.

***

(Beauty of) Landscapes on Southern Laos Roads

Tad

Couple

Tad Tayicsua

Tad

Alone

Nong Oy

Ban Beng

Phou Kham

22km

Paksong

Ban Tong Vai 11km

35km

8km

5 2

Km22

2 3

Ban Sing Samphan

(Paksé Guidebook)

Lao-Thai Border

Vat Phou Champasak & Don Deng Island (Champasak Guidebook)

Kiet Nong (Champasak Guidebook)

Sanamxay

Attapeu

Ban Beng Phou Kham

Nong Oy

Paksong Houay Hé

Sekong

Thateng

Tad Lo

Salavan

Nice level 1 (interesting)

Nice level 3 (charming)

Nice level 6 (breathtaking)

Paksé

Ban Kok Phoung Tai

Ban Houay Houn

Tad Tayicsua


Paksong : Lao Coffee Capital & Coffee break I do not feel very well in Paksong. To me this town is weird… I know some people like it anyway. "Local life" where most of the populations works for coffee. The place is probably too cold for me (1200m altitude).

There are many small and bigger shops selling different kinds of coffee. Coffee is surprisingly quite expensive even in Paksong. Coffee Cherries hand-picking, long washing & drying process and pernickety roasting methods may explain the price: 10.000 kip for an espresso (1€). In the other hand, Paksong may be a good place to learn more about coffee (tours & workshops): Mr Koffie (from Netherlands; Paksong) – 020 22760439 + web = paksong.info or meet him at WonCoffee. The shop is on the right -South) close to the road. Mr Koffie has lived in the area for years and is in love with it: he is the first "webmaster" making informative websites about coffee, Paksong and his services. He knows many tricks about Bolaven: ask him. Jhai Coffee (Paksong) – 45min or 3h tour – jhaicoffeehouse.com (Mr Jackie) is also on the right, a little before WonCoffee As Paksong is the capital of coffee, there are plenty of shops selling hot coffee and coffee-souvenirs. I personally do not recommend staying in Paksong for the night but going 10km further on (West) on the loop in the "4 Sisters Area"… because the sceneries are must more stunning… but Paksong, as a town, has more services to propose. … or more adventure (?!) → From Paksong, going South, Nong Luang village has a homestay (approx. 9km) (Cf. next page)

***

Coffee Tours & Worshops

Mr Vieng & Mr Hook roast coffee in a basic traditional way. There are sharper tours on the plateau: Mr Koffie (from Netherlands; Paksong) – 0 22760439 +web = paksong.info or meet him at WonCoffee Jhai Coffee (Paksong) – 45min or 3h tour – jhaicoffeehouse.com (Mr Jackie) Sinouk Coffee – sinoukcoffeeresort.com – Sinouk Coffee Garden & Resort is 6 km South from Thateng. CPC (Km40) – one full day: Tuesdays & Thursdays from November to March – [email protected] … Among others I do not know…

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Paksong

Small & Big Loop s (part 4)


Bonus: Nong Luang & Dan Yai (Bonus 4) I have never been to these 2 places: more info is needed. What do I know… ? → In Paksong there a very old sign "Nong Luang Village 9km ". There is a homestay for sure. From Ban Nong Luang it is possible to walk 4km to

Tad Kameut & Tad Sua waterfalls Site (among others). The site sounds like semi-public: Green Discovery & Tree-Top-Experience (travel agencies) organize tours, zipline, trekking and "tree-gh". More info is needed. The area is also known as Khelee Vongkhot… Let's be more confusing again:

→ Dan Yai (aka Dong Hua Sao) is a lunar landscape plateau (rocks, pine trees, flowers, just like Dan Sixay in the 4 Sisters Area). It is very close to the waterfalls, but it is separated from them by a canyon, great panoramic view → There are then 2 roads going South (from Paksong): → One going to Sanamxay District (70km)... but 5km after Paksong, a road turns right and goes to Dan Yai (12km): Eastside of the canyon. → One going to Ban Nong Luang (among other villages): Westside of the canyon. → The waterfalls are in the canyon.

← As far as I know… For now, the best is to try to get some info from Green Discovery agency in Paksé…

***

Nong Luang Dan Yai

Nong Oy

(big loop)

Paksong

Deep Bolaven North

4 Sisters Area

& Paksé

Thateng

(small loop)

Nong Luang

12km

5km

9km

Dan Yai

By foot only (?) 4km


The 4 Sisters Area : from Paksong to Paksé 4 well-known waterfalls very close to each other = 4 Sisters. Names of Road 16E Highlights, accommodations & villages are usually known as KM "something": distance from Paksé. You may notice the signs here & there.

N.B. Lao can understand km "kilomèt" but they usullay use ຫກ "lak".

Km 40 = Tad Yuang waterfall + CPC coffee +Uni-Paksong homestay Km 38 = Tad Fan & Tad Champee Km 35 = Tad Itou (aka E-tu) Km 33 = Sabaydee Valley Many villages have no name but km "something" = Km42, Km43, Km 48, Km22, Km25, Km28… and unfortunately many other villages North, South, West of Paksé have those names: confusing. Km 21 = Ban Houay Hé village

Paksé-Paksong road traffic is a little busy (cars, trucks…) and the road is not perfectly finish yet (but it is less dangerous than before). The 4 Sisters Area is only 35-40 km from Paksé: hurry travelers do not stop for the night and come back to Paksé in the late afternoon. But as I suggested you in pages 8 & 9, this area is one of the 4 (or 5) main overnight areas, because it is large enough to enjoy a full day (or 1 afternoon & 1 morning): Ban Houay Houn (Mr Vieng) / Tad Lo Site / Ban Kok Phoung Tai (Mr Hook) / Tad Tayicsua / The 4 Sisters From the Small Loop ↓ Many travelers slept in Tad Lo or Mr Hook's and visit the 4 Sisters the next day. Overnight in Paksé From the Big Loop ↓ Many travelers slept in Tad Tayicsua or in the close area; visit the 4 Sisters the next day. Overnight in Paksé. If you have time I recommend staying in the 4 Sisters one night to be able to enjoy a misknown place: Dan Sixay lunar landscape (similar to Dan Yai – cf. previous page – but much easier to reach)

***

4

2

1

3

Small & Big Loop s (part 4)

Resort

gh

Miss Ning

km 40 km 38

Tad Yuang

Dan Sixay

Tad Champee

Tad Fan

Tad Itou

Paksé

Bachieng Houay Houn

Laognam Tad Lo Salavan

Houay Hé

Paksong

Deep Bolaven

Huge Rubber Tree Plantation (labyrinth)

Homestay km 21

km 35 km 36

E-tu Garden

The 4 Sisters Area

Homestay Area Uni-Paksong & others

Resort

(21km) Sabaydee Valley Resort (km 33)

km 33

Road 16

Road 16E

Road 16E


Km 40 Area: Tad Yuang waterfall etc. 10 km down Paksong (km50 - 10km = km40) there are 2 unpaved roads

turning left (South) and both reaching Tad Yuang Tad Yuang ຕາດເຍ ອງ The waterfall is one of the most beautiful. It is not wild: large parking, shops, small market, one restaurant and stairs going down to the waterfall… It is possible to swim upstream.

Adventurous walk 1 = From the back of the site, some may enjoy trying to find a way to walk through the coffee plantations to reach the top of Tad Fan waterfall. Come back or…↓ Adventurous walk 2 = From the top it is possible to reach Tad Fan Resort (on the other side of the canyon)… or the other way taf Fan Resort → top of Tad Fan waterfall → Tad Yuang waterfall Be careful: steep paths, maybe slippery and the coffee plantation is a labyrinth (no sign, no map). Sen & Toui aka CPC (ex-AGPC) This shop and Coffee & Tea farm is a nice stop: roasting tea machine, small botanic garden (homestay and wwooffing before…) From Paksong to Ban Houay Hé there are several shops with the same themes: fresh coffee, fresh tea, workshop, organic garden

***

Km 40 Village

2 unpaved roads to Tad Yuang

Sen & Touy Coffee & CPC

Adventurous walks in the

coffee plantations

Canyon 100m+ Deep

(never seen it)

Km 38 Village

To Tad Champee

& Dan Sixay

gh & homestay Areas

Tad Fan Resort & Zipline

Tad Yuang Shops Area

Houay Bang Liang River

Bridge: steep road

approx. 1km

approx. 1km


Km 38: Tad Fan & Tad Champee… + Dan Sixay

Tad Fan ຕາດຟານ waterfall is a high and thin waterfall that can been seen from the distance from a view point (Tad Fan Resort, restaurant & small shops) → There is now a zipline tour for less than 40€/pers. = Three 400m long lines each. It must be breathtaking. Some days we can't see clearly the falls because of the fog coming up from the canyon.

← Tad Champee ຕາດຈ າປ is on the other side of the road (2km North). It is not very high but large, and there is a small cave behind the waterfall. It is not easy to go down to the waterfall. There are 2 restaurants on the small plateau-parking above. Backpackers like going there. It is possible to swim.

N.B. There are 2 "Tad Champee". The other one is in Tad Pasuam area and it is known as "Tad Champii". They have the same name because they are on the same river: Houay Champi (the sign for the river says 1 " i "…)

Dan Sixay lunar landscape

Dan Sixay is a 1,5 km2 plateau: rocks, pine trees, flowers, fresh air, panorama, some Buddha statues, silence… No one goes there yet ↓

It is the same landscape Dan Yai (South Paksong) but it is much easy to reach… even if there is no real bridge (river crossing is safer) and the unpaved road is steep (and slippery if it has rained).

One can go there and come back by scooter, but if you are not in a hurry I would recommend going there by foot. For instance: overnight in the 4 Sisters Area… Drive to one of the 2 waterfalls (parking = safer)… Walk up to Dan Sixay. ← Cf. number of km thanks to the map.

***

Paksé Paksong

Tad Fan

Km 38

700m

400m

1km

600m

1km

2km Tad Champee

Pont

Champi River

Dan Sixay Steep unpaved road

Coffee Plantations


Km 36… Km 35… Km34… Km33…

→ There is a paved road km 36 (North) entering the Deep Bolaven. It is easier to get in that area from that road, even if it is not the straighter access. There are other misknown waterfalls… Tad Houay Khot… Tad Houay Yoy etc. → Km 35 (North) is a long village. Big signs indicate the last waterfall for this trip:

Tad Itou Tad itou ຕາດອ ຕ (aka Tad E-tu). I have been there when it was still wild, now there is a resort on site. It is possible to have a nice walk upstream… in the middle of the coffee plantation… like the whole area. N.B. Access to the waterfall is not easy (steep concrete strairs) → Close to the main road (16E) Etu Green Garden is another possible stop for coffee and chatting about plants. It is also an organic garden where one can go harvesting vegetables. → Km33 (South) Sabaydee Valley is a large complex: garden resort, restaurant with a big parking for the Thai buses… At the back there are nice apartments-bungalows well-equipped with a great view on the canyon: some call this area "La Petite Suisse" (the little Switzerland). → I like going through the shady rubber tree plantations … There is a huge one on the southside of the road. It is a labyrinth. It can be very busy in the morning (9-10am) when workers come from the early morning harvest to weight it (and get paid).

→ Km 21 = Ban Houay Hé village, where the loops end.

***

Resort

gh

Miss Ning

km 40 km 38

Tad Yuang

Dan Sixay

Tad Champee

Tad Fan

Tad Itou

Paksé

Bachieng Houay Houn

Laognam Tad Lo Salavan

Houay Hé

Paksong

Deep Bolaven

Huge Rubber Tree Plantation (labyrinth)

Homestay km 21

km 35

km 36

E-tu Garden

The 4 Sisters Area

Homestay Area Uni-Paksong & others

Resort

(21km) Sabaydee Valley Resort (km 33)

km 33

Road 16

Road 16E

Road 16E


Back to Paksé: TRICK & TIPS… It may be not too late for…

→ Km 7 on the Road 13, on your left (South) there are garden outdoor shops . I personally like going there. It is shady thanks to the high trees and there are many types of flowers and plants.

→ Km 2 = Dao Market , close to the stadium is not really closed yet… from 3 to 6.30pm the south-east part of the hugest market in Laos (8 ha) welcomes sellers. They are all on the floor and sell fresh food to be cooked for dinner.

→ Remember that the panorama from the Golden Buddha (other side of the Mekong, crossing the Japanese bridge and up to Phou Salao Mountain) is beautiful at sunset time (6pm). One can go up there from the very high stairs (150m altitude) or the steep paved road (5km).

→ It is also the perfect time to enjoy the sunset with a Beerlao ເບຍລາວ& Lao genuine snacks… in a Lao Mekong Bar. There are now only 3 resto-bars to enjoy the sunset on the Mekong river banks (cf. maps & info in the "How to survive in a Lao Mekong Bar" Guidebook). Trick & Tips: Do not send back your scooter right in the evening… it can be useful for going out of downtown where real Lao evening/night life runs. It is usually possible to give back the scooter the next early morning without paying an extra. If you are nkm guests it may even be cheaper to rent a scooter one day than to take a tuk-tuk.

*** END OF THE BOLAVEN GUIDEBOOK***

Some of the misknown waterfalls in the plateau:

Tad Kameut et Tad Seua

Tad Alang (2)

Tad Mai Hia

Tad Kador

Tad Konekane

Tad Kouay Sang

Tad Mealouk

Tad Mouan

Tad Saepha


NKM Mekong Homestay & Family Dinner – Paksé – Laos

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