something fishy this way comes: the how and why of garum

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Something Fishy this Way Comes: The How and Why of Garum. Lori Kissell. Garum. What is it? How is it made? Where/how is it traded? How is it used? Modern equivalents/descendants?. Garum – what is it?. - PowerPoint PPT Presentation

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Page 1: Something Fishy this Way Comes: The How and Why of  Garum
Page 2: Something Fishy this Way Comes: The How and Why of  Garum

Something Fishy this Way Comes: The How and Why

of Garum

Lori Kissell

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Garum

• What is it?• How is it made?• Where/how is it traded?• How is it used?• Modern equivalents/descendants?

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Garum – what is it?

• OLD: garum, -i (n) a highly esteemed fish sauce, prepared originally from the garos (unknown fish) but later chiefly from the scomber or mackerel

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Garum – what is it?

• OLD: liquamen, -inis (n) [liquo + -men] a liquid fluid; (Spec., prob.) fish-sauce (garum)

• OLD: muria, -ae (f) also muries, -ei [dub] – brine used for pickling

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Garum – what is it?

• OLD: muriaticus, -a, -um – soaked in brine, pickled, (Neut. Pl as sb) pickled fish

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Garum – what is it?

• Cited by everyone!• Varro• Horace• Celsius• Seneca• Petronius• Pliny the Elder• Sextus Pompeius Festus

• Martial• Ulpius• Columella• Cato• Persius• Quintilian• Fabius Pictor• CIL 15.4709 & 4.2592

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Garum – how is it made?

• Traditional: fish + sunshine + time = garum

• Whole fish or offal only

• Fatty fish (oily) preferred

• Outdoors, then store in cool, dry place

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Garum – how is it made?

• Non-traditional: boil it first

• To strain or not strain?

• Store in fridge

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Garum – how is it made?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mPX8dpKG48M in which a German foodie tries his hand at garum

garum.umwblogs.org is a student project conducted over three months which documents with reports and pictures the beginnings of the liquefaction process

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Garum – how is it made?

• Recipes vary – all include fish and salt, but additional flavorings vary widely

• Herbs, vinegar, honey, fish used all change the flavor

• Favorite fish? Mackerel, sardines, anchovies, tunny, tuna or various combinations

• Herbs? Parsley, garlic, pepper or local variations

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Garum – how is it made?

• Leave in sun one to three months, strain, store• Edible, but pungent, in one year• Five years – not so bad• Ten years – really nice!

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Garum –where/ how is it traded?

• Must have: Source of Fish• Mediterranean not rich in fish• Must have: Good water supply• Famous locations – Pompeii, Carthage,

Lusitania, Baetican Spain, Clazomenae, Leptis Magna, Atlantic coasts of Morocco and Brittany, Black Sea region

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Garum – where/how is it traded?

• Transported in amphorae

• Distinctive styles can source the garum

• Barrels used, but little evidence remains

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Dressel 1to 6: wine amphorasDressel 1: Roman wine amphora, 129 B.C. to 13 A.D.Dressel 2: Roman wine amphora, 16 B.C. to 29 A.D.Dressel 3: Roman wine amphora, 28 to 146 A.D.Dressel 4: Roman wine amphora, 4 B.C. to 24 A.D.Dressel 5: Roman wine amphora, 12 B.C.. - holotypeDressel 6: Roman wine amphora, 36 A.D.- holotypeDressel 7,8,9,10,11: betic amphoras for salted fish (Hispanic)Dressel 8: 1st front century J.C.Dressel 12: betic amphora for salted fish (Andalusia)Dressel 13,14,15: betic amphoras for salted fishDressel 20: oil amphora, betic, 2nd-3rd century A.D.Dressel 26,27: 3rd century A.D. and later

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Garum – where/how is it traded?

• Used locally, and traded throughout empire

• Specialized in garum trade, or shipped with other goods (wine, oil, grain)

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Garum –where/ how is it traded?

• Aulus Umbricius Scaurus, father and son, Pompeii

• Major commodity in Pompeii, only one dedicated shop found (so far.)

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Garum – how is it used?

• Ubiquitous• Condiment

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Garum – how is it used?

• Ingredient

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Garum – how is it used?

• Cosmetics – remove unwanted hair and freckles

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Garum – how is it used?

• Medicine – dog bites, dysentery, ulcers, chronic diarrhea and constipation!

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Garum – modern?

• Umami

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Garum – modern?• Asian/Pacific fish sauces• e.g. Nuoc Mam, Nam Pla

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Garum – modern?

• Worcestershire sauce• Lea & Perrins includes anchovy base!