snow blankets a in oregon’s 2015 - wine enthusiast magazine · winemag.com | 1 2 oregon 25...

WINEMAG.COM | 1

2 OREGON

25 CALIFORNIA

47 ARGENTINA

52 SPAIN

59 BORDEAUX

67 RHÔNE

70 GERMANY

76 NORTHEAST ITALY

79 LOMBARDY

79 CENTRAL ITALY

86 SPIRITS

88 BEERS

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FEBRUARY Snow blankets a Pinot Noir vineyard

in Oregon’s Willamette Valley.

IN THIS MONTH’S GUIDE

FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM

BUYINGGUIDE

2015

Continued on Page 17

BUYINGGUIDE

2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2015

PINOT GRIS

92 King Estate 2013 Unity Pinot Gris (Oregon). King Estate makes several different versions

of Pinot Gris, but this belongs at the very top, with pitch-perfect pear fruit at its core. Fresh, textural and brightly racy, it’s an elegant and generous wine with a crisp, lingering finish that suggests it will continue to improve through 2020. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

92 The Eyrie Vineyards 2013 Pinot Gris (Dundee Hills). The lovely wines from this pioneering

estate, now in the capable hands of second-genera-tion winemaker Jason Lett, are generally priced well below any comparable efforts. Here the texture and minerality evoke surpassing elegance. Lime, grape-fruit, a bite of pineapple all come into play, with the

depth and balance that suggests several years of life ahead. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $19

92 WillaKenzie Estate 2013 Pinot Gris (Yamhill-Carlton District). This is a lush and fragrant

wine, instantly appealing with aromas of orange blossom and sweet pear. Quite dry and concentrat-ed, it brings further flavors of citrus, grapefruit and lemon rind as it plays out in a lingering, refreshing finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $21

91 David Hill 2013 Estate Pinot Gris (Willa-mette Valley). Tart pineapple fruit, with a

lipsmacking lick of lemon meringue pie, a hint of candied orange peel and a slice of apricot all work together in this juicy and complex wine. The con-centration is impressive, and the balance keeps it

interesting all the way through a long finish. Edi-tors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 12.6% Price: $20

91 King Estate 2013 Domaine Pinot Gris (Or-egon). Stylish and complex, with its fleshy

pear fruit set in a frame of bracing minerality, this is a wine of lucid clarity. It conveys the depth of looking into a deep, transparent mountain spring, with that same tongue-tickling minerality. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

90 Chehalem 2013 Three Vineyard Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). Lovely floral fragranc-

es lead into an elegant wine with racy acidity. The clover impression continues on the palate, along with apple skin and white peaches. The residual sugar (10 g/L) is barely noticeable. —P.G. abv: 11.9% Price: $22

90 Iris Vineyards 2013 Pinot Gris (Oregon). For full review see page 11. Editors’ Choice.

abv: 12.6% Price: $18

90 King Estate 2013 Backbone Pinot Gris (Or-egon). Fresh and bursting with youthful

brightness, this five-vineyard blend mixes apple, pear and golden raisins with a pleasing accent of clover and honey. Everything is in proportion, and the wine has a well-defined, sculpted mouthfeel. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

90 Winter’s Hill 2013 Pinot Gris (Dundee Hills). Good grip and focus are the hallmarks here,

showcasing pinpoint fruit flavors of orange, apple and pear. Precision crafting and immaculate acidity contribute to a lingering, refreshing finish, with a gently-rendered phenolic bite. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $17

89 Apolloni 2013 L Cuvée Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). Floral scents, lemon zest, orange

and pineapple swirl together, leading into a fruit-powered palate which reaches across the citrus spectrum and into papaya. Flavors are penetrating and the finish tight, so give it extra time to breathe. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

89 Carabella 2013 Estate Pinot Gris (Chehalem Mountains). Fresh and forward, this offers

a pleasing mix of lime, grapefruit and pear, lightly spiced. It’s a tight, sleek wine, with good supporting acidity and a refreshing mineral streak. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

88 Cória 2013 Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). For full review see page 12.

abv: 11.3% Price: $21

OREGONCelebrating vintage variation and diversity

Oregon vintners have been riding a weather- driven roller coaster over the past few years, and the vintage condi-tions have tested their mettle. It’s also

provided some genuine excitement for wine drinkers bored with wines (and wine regions) that never show a hint of vintage variation.

Oregon’s winemakers embrace vintage vari-ation, and 2011–2014 is as excit-ing and interesting as it gets. In 2011, though the year was cool and not all grapes ripened even-ly, the best Pinot Noirs are bal-anced, aromatic and complex, with the structure to age. The 2012 vintage, almost universal-ly acclaimed as great, is easy to love. The fruit ripened beautiful-ly, the wines all but made them-selves and the flavors are rich, luscious and deep.

The excitement in Oregon extends well be-yond the Willamette Valley and its Pinots (in-cluding Blanc and Gris). From the Walla Walla Valley to the Columbia Gorge and southern Or-egon, growers are finding success with a variety of grapes. Stunning examples of Syrah, Zin-

fandel, Tempranillo, Grenache, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Riesling and Viognier abound. Small experiments with Arneis, Chasselas, Grüner Veltliner and other racy whites, though still rare, prove the state is no one trick pony.

But back to those Pinot Noirs. They not only shine when new; they can age into the sort of gorgeous, resonant, evocative, subtle, mind-

bending wines that have made Burgundies the wine world’s pre-eminent Pinots. Oregon’s finest Pinots age very well indeed, and the Cellar Selections you’ll find here may confidently be tucked away for at least a decade, and maybe longer. For those looking for more immediate satisfaction, the bountiful 2012 harvest has delivered some exceptional val-

ues that are also enjoyable now.Beyond Oregon, we also review the last-

est releases from California, Argentina, Spain, France, Germany and Italy. And, as always, be sure to check out our complete database, with thousands more reviews, at buyingguide.winemag.com.

Cheers! —Paul Gregutt

Oregon’s wine-makers embrace vintage variation, and 2011–2014 is

as exciting and in-teresting as it gets.

WINEMAG.COM | 3

97 Wayfarer 2012 The Traveler Pinot Noir (Fort Ross-Seaview). From an estate block planted

to a mysterious suitcase clone, this is an insanely memorable and indelible Pinot. High in acidity, it discloses a touch of cedar on the back palate, richly luxurious and just aching for wild Sonoma duck adorned in a cherry reduction sauce. Cherry pit, berry, lavender and violet play on the nose and tongue, infusing the wine with a playfulness bal-anced by power. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $125

96 Ponzi 2012 Aurora Vineyard Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). This sensational effort

comes from 20-year-old vines. It’s a glorious wine; textural, generous and complex. The bright and fruity midpalate blends flavors of peach, quince, honey, tea and caramel, buoyed by juicy acidity and a touch of minerality. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $60

95 Elk Cove 2012 Roosevelt Pinot Noir (Willa-mette Valley). A star even among a stellar

group of 2012 releases from Elk Cove, this 20-year-old vineyard really delivers the goods. Time has tempered the herbal aromatics, giving this rich, ripe effort a subtle subtext of olive and sage. Black cher-ry, dark chocolate and a dusty, mocha finish with a hint of habanero pepper bring this wine together beautifully. Delicious already, it should continue to improve 2025–2030. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $85

95 Hess Collection 2012 Small Block Series Malbec (Mount Veeder). From one of the

few Napa Valley wineries to showcase Malbec, this wine is a testament to the virtues of that devotion. It offers rich, dreamy flavors of blueberry cobbler, blackberry and licorice, lifted acidity and plush, soft tannins, all gorgeously finished in spicy chocolate and vanilla. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $50

95 Ponzi 2012 Aurora Vineyard Pinot Noir (Wil-lamette Valley). A potpourri of exotic

scents and flavors, this vineyard selection opens with scents of rose, raspberry, lavender and tea. The palate is generous and complex, mixing in nutmeg, chocolate, star anise and cola. Although it promises many years of life ahead, it’s already too good to re-sist. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $100

94 Devil Proof 2012 Farrow Ranch Malbec (Alex-ander Valley). Winemaker Jesse Katz pulled

out all the stops to craft this small-production Mal-bec, proving that the right fruit in the right hands can yield crazy-good results. Having spent time ag-ing in 100% new French oak, the wine needs time to open, but once it does, look out. Concentrated swirls of wild blackberry and truffle are framed by soft tannins and measured acidity. Drink now through 2024, easily. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $80

The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director/Senior Editor Lauren Buzzeo, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Manag-ing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Tasting Coordinator Alexander Peartree, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in Eng-land; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in California; and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean Sullivan in Washington.

If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s ini-tials appear following the note. When no initials appear follow-ing a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more review-ers and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all spirit reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo.

Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its suggested national retail price, its alcohol (abv) as reported to us by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated.

TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALSAll tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Reviewers may know general information about a flight to provide context—vintage, variety or appellation—but never the producer or retail price of any given selection. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted.

ABOUT THE SCORESRatings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics.

Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; often good value. Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- critical circumstances.

Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80 points) are not reviewed.

SPECIAL DESIGNATIONSEditors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent qual-

ity at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price with unique qualities that merit special attention.

Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated.

Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae for determining Best Buys, but wines meriting this award are gener-ally priced at $15 or less.

SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEWProducts should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing lo-cation as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.com/contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting & Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email [email protected]. There is no charge for submitting products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted for review, but there is no guarantee that all products submitted will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be accompanied by the appropriate submission forms, which may be downloaded from our Web site.

LABELSLabels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information on label purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax 866.896.8786; or email [email protected].

Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at buyingguide.winemag.com

BUYINGGUIDE


94 Dutton-Goldfield 2012 Dutton Ranch Free-stone Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River

Valley). From a coastal vineyard in the southwest corner of the Russian River Valley, this is earthy and brambly on the nose, inviting in its sense of wild abandon. Concentrated yet vibrant in acidity, the flavors lean toward cranberry and tart cherry, completely enveloped in intriguing cardamom spice. Elegant and balanced. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $72

94 Famille Perrin 2011 Château de Beaucastel (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). An impressive

wine by any measure, this shows ample complex-ity in its mix of black cherry, dark earth and briery notes. The tannins frame the wine’s opulent fruit, while remaining wonderfully unobtrusive. This should drink well for at least 15 years from the vin-tage. Vineyard Brands. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $120

94 Sierra Cantabria 2011 Finca El Bosque (Rio-ja). Burnt toast, mineral, raw char, pencil

lead, tobacco and blackberry aromas make for a highly complex and powerful nose. Following on that theme, this is packed and intense on the palate, with smoky black fruit and licorice flavors that fin-ish oaky, toasty and blackened. This is the epitome of a modern Rioja thrill ride. It will take its passen-gers now through 2035; 200 cases made. Fine Es-tates From Spain. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $145

94 The 50 by 50 2012 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Sourced from Rodgers Creek Vine-

yard, this is an ethereal, feminine Pinot, sublime in color and texture, bright in tart cherry. Brisk in acidity, it offers an undercurrent of dried herbes de Provence, cinnamon and exotic spice, evolving in the glass as it goes. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $30

94 Tobacco Road 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is a mature Cabernet

that’s still generous in brambly black cherry and plum, with layers of spice intermingled among the fine tannins and charred oak. Black tea and tobacco complete the intrigue of this wine, with a black lico-rice finish. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $199

94 Viñedos de Paganos 2011 La Nieta (Rioja). Deep, dense and penetrating on the nose

with the power of graphite, blackberry and mocha aromas, La Nieta is a wide-awake, bright wine that’s chomping at the bit to get out of the bottle and run. Coffee, mocha and blackberry aromas are oaky for sure, with toast, vanilla and creamy notes driving a long finish. Drink through 2026. Fine Estates From Spain. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $145

93 Arrocal 2010 Selección (Ribera del Duero). Elegant yet ripe on the nose, this gets going

in fine form via spicy, exotic, oaky aromas on top of primary berry tones. Powerful and oaky on the palate, with a creamy vanilla flavor, this brings on the blackberry, mocha, cocoa and toast as it works its way to a clean, long finish. One can drink this now, but the optimum window will be 2018–2021. Grapes of Spain. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $42

93 Au Contraire 2013 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This is a delightfully floral and

lemony-crisp wine, with a touch of crème brûlée balanced between layers of citrus. Despite the rich accent, it’s light-bodied and easy to like, offering subtle complexity and a sultry, spicy finish. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $20

93 Dr. Loosen 2012 Erdener Treppchen Alte Re-ben GG Dry Riesling (Mosel). The nose of this

dry, richly textured Riesling entices with notes of apples and pears dipped in wildflower honey. Rich and languorous, it’s intensely juicy in grapefruit fla-vor, and finishes long, with a zesty mineral flourish. Loosen Bros. USA. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $42

WINEMAG.COM | 5

93 Dutton-Goldfield 2012 Fox Den Vineyard Pinot Noir (Green Valley). Elegant and well

structured, this offers vibrant strawberry fruit wrapped around inviting aromatics of violet and spice. This cool-climate Pinot boasts a silky texture on the palate and finishes with subtle suggestions of wood smoke and cinnamon. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $58

93 Dutton-Goldfield 2012 McDougall Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Overlooking

the Gualala River and Pacific Ocean, the McDougall Vineyard reaches elevations of 1,100 feet, a per-fect vantage point from which to breathe in fresh, cooling coastal air. The resulting wine is awash in bright, vibrant acidity, yet offers equal measures of juicy black cherry fruit and dried herb spice. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $58

93 Foxen 2012 John Sebastiano Vinyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). A powerful, brooding

nose of black cardamom and crushed clove melds with pomegranate and cherry, resulting in an in-credibly aromatic wine that hails from a popular vineyard on the eastern edge of the appellation. The flavors are also quite deep—sour cherry, mocha, more clove—atop layers of bitter plum peels and re-freshing acid. —M.K. abv: 14% Price: $48

93 Gary Farrell 2012 Rochioli Vineyard Old River Block Single Oak Puncheon Chardonnay

(Russian River Valley). Bright, beautiful and bal-anced, this tiny production wine is aflutter in high-toned citrus notes, melon and peach. A well-crafted marriage of power and sophistication, the aromatics of wild jasmine shine, while texturally the wine is round and softly layered. —V.B. abv: 13.4% Price: $60

93 Hunnicutt 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Ruth-erford). This sumptuous Cabernet speaks

volumes to the power of good winemaking in a chal-lenging vintage. The wine is juicy, rich and layered in crisp red fruit and dusty spice. It’s built to age through 2020, but you could decant it now and en-joy. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $85

93 Le Vigne 2011 Âme de la Vigne (Paso Robles). This ripe, attractive wine leads with notes of

red and black cherries, dried sage, crushed violets and pipe smoke on the fragrant, herbal nose. Once sipped, it’s light and lofty for such a dense-smelling wine, with well-spiced cherry flavors and easy-to-enjoy tannins on the palate. —M.K. abv: 14.7% Price: $39

93 ONX 2012 Reckoning (Paso Robles). This mashup of 62% Syrah, 16% Petite Sirah,

8% Tempranillo, 7% Grenache, 5% Zinfandel and 2% Malbec delivers aromas of black cherry and Chinese five spice as well as mint and black earth. The palate picks up blackberry-laced iced tea with sprigs of mint and pinches of cardamom, alongside spicy gingerbread cake. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 15.6% Price: $45

93 SignoSeis 2011 The Angel Oak Celestial Barrel Fermented Malbec (Valle de Uco). Deep, ripe,

smooth blackberry, prune, cola and earth aromas are elegant and harmonious. This small-lot Malbec (50 cases made) shows ripeness and freshness on the palate as well as lightly roasted blackberry, cas-sis and chocolate flavors. A firm, dry, on-the-money finish is the final note in this wine’s well-sung cho-rus. Drink through 2018. Argentinean Wines, LLC. —M.S. abv: 15.2% Price: $75

93 Stone The Crows 2012 Three Twins Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Opening

with a rich, luxurious nose, this wine is delightfully bright on the palate before evolving into brooding notes of black cherry and smoky oak. Hints of dark chocolate and coconut shavings round out the in-trigue and complexity. The wine is ready to enjoy now, but worth cellaring through 2020. Cellar Se-lection. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $95

BUYINGGUIDE


93 Volker Eisele Family Estate 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Made with 16%

Merlot to soften it, this is an unctuous, fully sat-isfying wine, restrained and complex, grown on the family’s Chiles Valley estate. It opens with ripe red berry and currant as well as a suggestion of vanil-la, the oak providing structure and texture. Enjoy through 2025. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $50

93 Wrath 2012 Ex Anima Syrah (Monterey). Deeply intriguing and funky aromas of sweet

tar, charred blueberries and hot rubber emerge from this study of using minimal amounts of new oak on a typically oak-aged variety. Some may find the re-ductive nose challenging, but the palate is more ap-proachable, with dark chocolate and cassis flavors. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 14.4% Price: $25

92 Bertani 2011 Villa Arvedi (Amarone della Val-policella Valpantena). Sleek and polished,

this opens with lovely fragrances of blue flowers, incense and sandalwood. The juicy palate weaves together ripe black plum, black cherry, white pep-per and clove, balanced by supple tannins. Palm Bay International. —K.O. abv: 15.5% Price: $55

92 Dunning Vineyards 2013 Westside Estate Wines Chardonnay (Paso Robles). One of the

many vintners proud of their forthcoming Willow Creek District appellation, Bob and Jo-Ann Dun-ning’s Chardonnay presents delicate aromas of yel-low flowers, vanilla bean, peach skin and limestone. The white rocks extend to the palate, picking up nectarine elements, too, creating a lean but flavor-ful wine that’s refreshing enough to sip all night. —M.K. abv: 13.7% Price: $26

92 Fiddlehead 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). This bottling

masterfully handles the young appellation’s tropi-cally inclined fruit, with apple candy aromas and a soft, rich mouthfeel. The flavors nod briefly toward the traditional greener, grassy side of the grape, but it’s a smoother experience, less biting, with a hint of barrel smoke. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $25

92 Grgich Hills 2010 Yountville Selection Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley).

The winery makes this wine from vines planted in 1959 that it now farms organically. In this vintage, they produced a hearty, sizable wine, ripe, soft and intense, in need of time to coax the blackberry and cassis fruit forward. Enjoy through 2025. Cellar Se-lection. —V.B. abv: 15.1% Price: $195

92 Hendry 2013 Hendry Vineyard Pinot Gris (Napa Valley). A balanced and lilting 100%

varietal white that touched no oak, it’s sublime in white peach and garden herb notes, with memo-rable minerality on the finish. Crisp and refreshing, it’s ideal for picnics, beach outings and pairing with light fare. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 13.6% Price: $18

92 Mercy 2012 Riverbed Pinot Noir (Arroyo Seco). This wine comes from three vine-

yards that sit atop a dry, ancient riverbed. The nose mixes sour cherry and toasted vanilla bean with scents of ginger and turned earth, while a soft mouthfeel frames flavors of cherry cola and beet juice. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

92 Michael David 2012 Earthquake Petite Sirah (Lodi). A deep, dark color combines with

extravagantly spicy oak aromas, rich fruit flavors and layers of fine tannins for a show-stopping per-formance. This is full-bodied and firm in texture, abundantly laced with blackberry and boysenberry flavors and pretty much irresistible. Drink now or cellar through 2018. —J.G. abv: 15% Price: $26

WINEMAG.COM | 7

92 Midnight Cellars 2011 Estate Zinfandel (Paso Robles). A pleasantly dank nose of black to-

bacco, cedar and deep purple fruit like elderberry combine for a strong wine from the Willow Creek District. It’s elegantly brooding, redolent of stewed plums, leaving the tongue gripped with tannins and refreshed with acid. —M.K. abv: 16.7% Price: $39

92 Muga 2006 Prado Enea Gran Reserva (Rioja). Cedar, char and blackberry aromas are full

and ripe on the nose. Given the wine’s age, its struc-ture and tannic weight are just right. Earthy, lightly roasted flavors of spiced raspberry and plum finish peppery and dry. Drink through 2020. Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $62

92 ONX 2012 Crux (Paso Robles). This blend of 43% Syrah, 31% Mourvèdre, 23%

Grenache and 3% Alicante Bouschet opens with an elegant and nuanced nose, featuring scents of black-berry crumble, lilac and other purple flowers. The tart, earthy flavors combine black raspberry and vanilla with beet root, black earth and sagebrush. A deep, heady blend. —M.K. abv: 15.2% Price: $45

92 ONX 2012 Mad Crush (Paso Robles). Wildly complex aromas show on this blend of 72%

Grenache, 16% Mourvèdre, 10% Tempranillo and 2% Alicante Bouschet. Ripe raspberry and euca-lyptus run into notes of soy sauce and dried lilac. Flavors lean toward purple fruit and ripe raspberry, with bergamot and pencil lead working their way in as well. —M.K. abv: 14.7% Price: $45

92 Penner-Ash 2012 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This 7,000-case effort retained the

quality for which the winery’s limited-production wines are known. The fruit-laden 2012 vintage helps, and the wine beguiles from first sniff to last sip. Cherries, chocolate, sandalwood and saffron in-terweave. The mouthfeel is soft and supple, and the delicate balance of fruit, acid and barrel never lets you down. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $48

92 Ram’s Gate 2012 Chardonnay (Carneros). Crisp, clean, light and bright, this is an

easy-to-love Chardonnay, with a soft texture and ample concentration. Notes of citrus and fresh pear dominate, with lovely streaks of subtle spice adding depth and interest to the finish. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $36

92 Robert Hall 2012 Meritage (Paso Robles). Blackberry, charred sage, beef crust and

cedar notes introduce this blend of 48% Merlot, 37% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc. It’s lively on the palate, with a lingering finish of dried cherries. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

92 Sanctuary 2012 Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Veteran wine-

maker Dennis Martin’s take on the Miller family’s famous vineyard presents pretty aromas of violet, red rose and black raspberry, along with turned earth and wet mushroom. It’s soft on the palate, with pomegranate and beet juice, anise and shii-take. —M.K. abv: 14.6% Price: $45

92 Sierra Cantabria 2011 Colección Privada (Rio-ja). The full-force nose of this wine boasts

smashed-berry aromas with minerals and a touch of creamy oak. Compact and intense, this is a muscled-up Rioja showing heafty oak and toast alongside ripe berry flavors. Drink through 2025. Fine Estates From Spain. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $49

BUYINGGUIDE


92 Tablas Creek 2012 Esprit Blanc de Tablas Es-tate Grown & Bottled Roussanne-Grenache

Blanc-Picpoul Blanc (Paso Robles). This historic producer’s flagship blend of Roussanne, Grenache Blanc and Picpoul offers scents of wild honey and lemon custard. The flavors walk proudly between those elements and a citrus peel bitterness, woven amidst the freshness of seltzer and morning dew. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $45

92 Vina Robles 2011 Estate Petite Sirah (Paso Robles). Complex aromas of stewed cher-

ries, peppercorns and burned toast abound in this wine from the recently named Estrella district. The flavors are well integrated, with mocha, espresso and black cherry most apparent. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $29

92 Zaca Mesa 2010 Estate Grown and Bottled Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley). The first winery

to plant Syrah in the county continues to produce powerful but layered expressions. This delivers rich aromas of cherry, stewed plum and blackberry alongside sage and a wisp of vanilla. On the palate, it starts rich, until bright acidity and tannins bring balance amidst mocha and blackberry jam flavors and an oak-powered vanilla finish. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $25

91 Apolloni 2012 Dolce Vino Viognier (Oregon). The winery notes that this was done in an

ice wine style—cryogenically—and it was done very well indeed. Pretty aromas show concentrated lemon and honey highlights. Once tasted, they carry through with flavors of orange marmalade, maple syrup and brown sugar. Sweet but not cloying, it’s a slice of lemon pie in a glass. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 12.3% Price: $22/375 ml

91 Brecon Estate 2012 Petit Sirah (Monterey County). Black as night in the glass, the

dark-leaning, attention-grabbing aromas range from black cherry to cassis, with some slate. The wine lacquers the palate with brooding purple fruit, boasting flavors of blackberry syrup, white pepper and violet. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

91 Criss Cross 2013 Petite Sirah (Clarksburg). This interesting and complex cool-climate

Petite Sirah tastes more like its relative Syrah than usual—and it contains almost 10% Syrah. The aro-mas recall black pepper, roast beef and ripe black-berries. Tannins are firm but not massive, giving the texture a sense of layering and finesse. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $20

91 Crux 2012 G-S-M (Russian River Valley). A blend of 52% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 16%

Mourvèdre and 2% Petite Sirah—all rare finds in Pinot-heavy Russian River—this wine is aged in mostly neutral barrels, although a third of the Syrah sees time in new French oak. Spicy layers of anise and tar intermingle with balanced blackberry and black-cherry brightness. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $42

91 Ernest 2012 The Engineer Romanini Vine-yard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). From both

Pommard and Calera clones, this Pinot offers a gen-erously earthy nose of forest floor and wild mush-rooms before delving into subtle black and red cherry fruit. Weighty on the palate, the tannins are soft, yet the wine finishes lean. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $36

91 Famille Perrin 2012 Les Sinards (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Fermented in oak (50% new), this

is a broad, toast-accented wine that delivers hints of honey and marmalade yet remains reasonably long and focused on the finish. Best enjoyed before the end of 2015. Vineyard Brands. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $38

WINEMAG.COM | 9

91 Hall 2011 Jack’s Masterpiece Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Napa Valley). The 4% Petit Verdot in

this dark, inky Cabernet Sauvignon is doing its job in terms of color and structure, adding much of both to the mix. Overall the wine is savory and full-bod-ied on the palate, with bits of spicy clove and sage around black cherry and toasted oak. Enjoy through 2030. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $125

91 Le Vigne 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). There’s a nice touch of green pasilla

chile on the nose of this wine, with red currant un-dertones. The peppery elements consume the palate as well, giving it a more distinct and food-friendly nature than overly ripe versions. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $35

91 Muscardini 2011 Unti Vineyards Syrah (Dry Creek Valley). Minty, this restrained Syrah is

from a sought-after vineyard, a pioneer in Sonoma County Rhône-style wines. Here, the producer keeps things interesting in swathes of white pepper, mint and cranberry, as well as a strong sense of leather throughout. High in acidity, it needs time to come together; try after 2020. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 12.8% Price: $38

91 Ponzi 2012 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This bottling occupies the middle step be-

tween Ponzi’s Tavola and reserve-level Pinots. The exceptional 2012 vintage delivers a wine with un-usual concentration for its price. It presents a re-freshing mix of briary berry, mineral, hints of chive, pepper, chocolaty barrel notes and a suggestion of yeast, and is finished with fine-grain tannins. —P.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $40

91 Ridge 2012 East Bench Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). Deliciously ripe and generous, this

full-bodied Zin has plenty to like: ripe blackberry, black cherry and baking spice aromas. Deep flavors echo the fruit and layer it with hints of vanilla and nutmeg. While full-bodied and nicely thick in tex-ture, it’s not over the top and remains balanced by firm acidity and welcome tannins. —J.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $28

91 Silverado 2011 SOLO Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap District). Solo comes from the

winery’s estate vineyard, the third vineyard planted to Cabernet Sauvignon in the Stags Leap District. It is elegant and old-school in style, pretty in violets and red berries, with a juicy, soft texture. It begs for steak. —V.B. abv: 13.3% Price: $100

91 Starmont 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val-ley). Pretty in honeysuckle and gardenia,

this bright wine, blended with 5% Sémillon, recalls fresh-squeezed lemonade before the sugar, refresh-ing and intensely delicious. The acidity is balanced by enough weight to dial the volume down and fla-vors of rich, lush melon. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

91 Volver 2011 Triga (Alicante). This Monastrell-led blend opens with a smoky blast of toasty

oak on top of forest floor and herbal tones. The pal-ate feels massive and extracted, showing ripe cas-sis and blackberry. Chocolate, herb, toast, berry and black currant flavors ride through the ripe fin-ish. Drink through 2017. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

90 Apolloni 2013 Pinot Blanc (Willamette Val-ley). Done entirely in stainless steel, this

low-alcohol effort is thoroughly delicious. Cucum-ber, apple and green pear fruit combine with juicy acids in this smooth, persistent and refreshing white wine. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $16

BUYINGGUIDE


90 Black Stallion 2012 Pinot Noir (Los Carne-ros). Earthy and savory, this Pinot is soft

and velvety on the palate, entirely inviting and mel-low. Flavors are marked by brambly black and red cherry fruit, dried herb and anise. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

90 Bolla 2011 Creso (Veronese). Aromas of crushed plum, grilled herbs, game, exotic

spice and toast lead the nose on this blend of Cor-vina and Cabernet Sauvignon. The lush palate of-fers fleshy blackberry, nutmeg and mocha alongside soft, velvety tannins. Drink through 2018. Banfi Vintners. —K.O. abv: 15.5% Price: $25

90 Brandlin 2011 Estate Grown Cabernet Sau-vignon (Napa Valley). Largely from Mount

Veeder, this Cabernet Sauvignon has small percent-ages of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. The trio combine to offer currant and cranberry around a complex, woody core of oak, black tea and herbs. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

90 Brecon Estate 2013 Albariño (Central Coast). This Spanish varietal is a fast-

rising Central Coast star, and this selection shows it off well. Steely scents of dry hard-apple cider greet the nose, and the palate is all about bright and fresh acidity, presented through lime juice and skin as well as tart pears. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $26

90 Château Floréal Lauguens 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. This rich wine features great

tannins and ripe black fruits. It comes from a prop-erty on the slopes above the Garonne river that also produces Côtes de Bordeaux. Already delicious in its layers of structure and fruit, it is packed with ripe flavors and finished with acidity. It can age and will be best from 2017. Michael Corso Selections. Edi-tors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $17

90 Château Mirefleurs 2012 Bordeaux Supéri-eur. Ripe, full and smooth, this obviously

wood-aged wine has also managed to retain its ripe fruit. It’s soft, full of acidity and black currants, with a good touch of spice to bring out the complex-ity of the wine. Drink from 2017. Luneau USA Inc. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

90 Clos Cantenac 2011 Saint-Émilion. Already well developed, this solid, wood-aged wine

packs powerful tannins as well as fruit. It has a dense character, spice and a core of firmness. With its rich fruit and fresh acidity at the end, it’s nearly ready to drink but merits a wait. Drink from 2016. Old Bridge Cellars. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $75

90 Cória 2013 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Picked at 19.6 brix (a sparkling-

wine level of ripeness), this bone-dry, high acid rosé is intensely aromatic, with lush scents of rose petals and fresh strawberries. It’s spring in a glass, wonderfully expressive and long lasting. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 11.3% Price: $20

90 Dry Creek Vineyard 2012 DCV Estate Block 10 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). The

winery once made 30,000 cases of Chardonnay. With this release, it micro-sized that number down to 1,250, focusing on 30 vine rows to make a better wine. Mission accomplished—this medium-bodied wine offers a creamy texture, with concentrated fig and pear flavors around a mineral-laden finish. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

WINEMAG.COM | 11

90 Duckhorn 2012 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). For the debut of the winery’s Chardon-

nay, fruit is sourced largely from Oak Knoll, Carne-ros and Rutherford to craft an aromatically lemony wine that gives way to fuller tidings of caramel and vanilla on the palate. The finish offers balanced and refreshing acidity. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $35

90 Gary Farrell 2012 Bacigalupi Vineyard Char-donnay (Russian River Valley). This is

bright in notes of apple blossom, lemon and lime, with additional hints of mineral and oak. Develop-ing in the glass, it offers flavors of grapefruit and lemongrass from middle to end, while the finish is lightly marked by a honey accent. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $45

90 Hendry 2013 Hendry Vineyard Albari-ño (Napa Valley). Brisk and alive, this

Spanish- inspired white offers refreshing bites of ripe apple and bright citrus around the medium-bodied palate. It offers a subtle texture and a hint of minerality. —V.B. abv: 13.7% Price: $20

90 Iris Vineyards 2013 Pinot Gris (Oregon). Roughly half the fruit is estate grown. Lush,

potent aromatics introduce an impressively con-centrated wine, abundant in fresh pear flavor. An orange liqueur highlight adds a sharp, well-defined note to the finish. This wine should develop nicely through 2018 or 2020. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 12.6% Price: $18

90 Ironstone 2012 Reserve Old Vine Zinfandel (Lodi). A smooth, supple version of Zin-

fandel, this is full-bodied and rich but not overly showy or oaky. Blended from 90% Zinfandel plus Petite Sirah and Malbec, it has enticing wild black-berry aromas and flavors, touches of cinnamon and cedar and a lingering finish. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

90 Jamieson Ranch 2012 Double Lariat Caber-net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Supple and

accessible, this Cabernet is bright in acidity and soft in tannins, yet amply structured. The palate is layered with flavors of cherry and cranberry, with a hit of nuanced oak on the finish. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

90 Joseph Phelps 2012 Freestone Vineyards Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast).

Crafted from grapes grown in two estate vineyards, Pastorale and Quarter Moon, this wine deftly pro-vides a taste of wild strawberry and feral forest floor, offering concentration within a lean frame. The finish memorably imprints lasting cardamom spice. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $55

90 Marimar Estate 2013 Don Miguel Vineyard Estate Grown & Bottled Albariño (Russian

River Valley). The winery excels at capturing the coolness and acidity of its vineyard site. Estate grown and bottled, this offers a creamy expression of bright, freshly cut kiwi, lychee and lime, sur-rounded by pretty floral aromas. Refreshing but with ample body, it calls out longingly for seafood. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $32

90 Marimar Estate 2012 Doña Margarita Vine-yard Mas Cavalls Unfiltered Estate Grown

& Bottled Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Ripe black raspberry and cherry mark this lovely Pinot that is rich and concentrated. The oak is prominent, with a touch of meaty gaminess on the full palate. Balanced, the wine’s acidity remains remarkably bright. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $44

BUYINGGUIDE


90 Muscardini 2011 Cypress Ranch Sangiovese (Napa County). From the wilds of Pope Val-

ley, east of the Napa Valley yet still within county lines, this red is awash in savory flavors of tarragon, sage, tomato leaf and olive, structured and serious in chewy tannins and tar. Give it time and it will reward. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $36

90 Ridge 2012 Three Valleys Zinfandel (So-noma County). What a treat to find a truly

dry, balanced table wine among a sea of sweet and overoaked Zins. Plenty of blackberry, clove, sage and cherry flavors are supported by just firm-enough tannins and medium body. The blend is 79% Zin-fandel, 12% Carignane, 8% Petite Sirah and 1% Alicante Bouschet. —J.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $26

90 Smith & Hook 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Central Coast). Relying on decades of ex-

perience, the Hahn family makes Cabernet that’s easy to quaff. This one features aromas of warm blueberry pie and melting ice cream, with a cigar-box backbone. The flavors mix ripe fruit and smoke, proving light in the mouth and not too serious, but delicious. —M.K. abv: 14.8% Price: $25

90 Viader 2011 Red (Napa Valley). An elegant, balanced blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon and 40% Cabernet Franc, this offers clove and red currant in abundance around a still-present core of oak and cedar. It’s ripe and lush, making it accessible and enjoyable now. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $150

89 Bodegas Bilbainas 2011 Viña Pomal Crianza (Rioja). Focused dark berry, spice and

leather aromas form the opening to this nicely made crianza. The palate has a snappy feel, showing firm but controlled tannins. Oak and spice tones hover over berry fruit flavors and last through a juicy fin-ish. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

89 Michael David 2013 Chardonnay (Lodi). This wine doesn’t give up its refreshing acidity

as it adds plenty of buttery, toasty oak tones to spice up the vivid crisp apple and pineapple flavors at its core. It makes for a lively, dry and appetizing drink to enjoy now. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $16

89 Robert Hall 2013 Cuvée de Robles Red Wine (Paso Robles). This is a fun and lively blend

of 38% Grenache, 24% Cinsault, 21% Syrah and 17% Petite Sirah, with aromas of fresh wild berries and white pepper. The flavors are berry punch-like, with intriguing clove, licorice and anise. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

88 Bonterra 2013 Made With Organic Grapes Viognier (Mendocino County). There’s a

faint hint of pink in the color of this bright, cheery, light and appetizing wine. It combines flashes of crisp green apple with ripe pear, golden cherry and white peach for a cornucopia of delicious fruit fla-vor. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $14

88 Cória 2013 Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). This well-made wine shows an interesting

mix of cucumber, lime, pineapple and apple flavors, underscored by racy, mineral-drenched acidity. It’s bone dry, textural and refreshing. It’s fun to find a low-alcohol, bone-dry Oregon Pinot Gris that fits the region’s seafood so well. —P.G. abv: 11.3% Price: $21

WINEMAG.COM | 13

88 Irony 2012 Small Lot Reserve Cabernet Sau-vignon (North Coast). With good balance

and the classic cherry and herb flavors of Cabernet, this is tasty and well made. It smells and tastes like ripe cherries and blackberries sprinkled with a bit of brown sugar (oak-barrel influence). —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

88 Jekel 2012 Pinot Noir (Monterey). An intel-lectual Pinot for the price, it offers miner-

ally aromas of iron, blood and graphite. Flavors are also pleasingly precise, with graphite and steel pick-ing up some ripe raspberry on the edges. It’s lean and focused. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $16

88 Matchbook 2012 The Arsonist Chardonnay (Dunnigan Hills). In an era of proudly un-

oaked Chardonnays, this is a staunch throwback. It has a rich yellow-gold color, powerful aromas of toasted oak barrels and toasted walnuts, full body and viscous texture. Ripe pear flavors are strongly accented by more oak flourishes. Rich and flavorful, it’s delicious for those who like this style. —J.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $22

88 Noble Vines 2012 337 Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). If a Cabernet can be smooth and

creamy, this one is. It offers plenty of fruit flavor, firm tannins that coat the mouth in a good way, plus a plush texture that keeps it from being even a bit harsh. With medium body, a great mouthfeel and lingering finish, there’s much to like. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

88 Vina Robles 2013 Estate Sauvignon Blanc (Paso Robles). This bottling from the Es-

trella District walks the entire rainbow of the va-rietal, with chopped dill, fresh oregano, yellow rose and guava nectar on the nose. On the palate, it goes in reverse, starting with tropical elements of pas-sion fruit before bending toward the sharper, grass-ier side of the grape. —M.K. abv: 14.4% Price: $16

87 Cliffhanger Vineyards 2013 Estate Grown Pro-prietary Red Blend (Vigneti delle Dolomiti).

A blend of 70% Teroldego and 30% Lagrein, this opens with aromas of forest floor, crushed black-berry, toasted oak and vanilla. The simple, straight-forward palate offers dried black cherry, espresso and a mocha note alongside dusty tannins. Prestige Wine Imports Corp. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $14

87 Vaza 2011 Crianza (Rioja). Earth, leather, herb and berry aromas set up a firm palate

and gripping structure. The midpalate is focused on red fruit and light oak tones, while the finish is crisp, fresh and zesty. Freixenet USA. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

BEST BUYS

91 HandCraft 2012 Petite Sirah (California). Lav-ish fruit and extravagant spicy oak flavors

balance each other well in this big, showy, dark and tannic wine. The color is black almost to the rim, and it has plenty of body, thick tannins and concen-trated boysenberry flavors. Best now through 2019. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $13

91 The White Knight 2013 Viognier (Clarksburg). Ripe flavors and a plush texture have not

gone out of style in this opulent and tasty Viognier. Although not technically sweet, it has all these great dessert flavors: hazelnuts, toasted almonds and poached pears. The finish lasts 30 seconds or more. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $12

BUYINGGUIDE


BEST BUYS

90 Carnivor 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Califor-nia). Dark in color, deep in aroma, quietly

intense in flavor and so mouthcoating in texture—this Cabernet demands to be noticed. Yet all of those bold elements are wrapped in a tightly wo-ven and softly finished texture. The flavors are like dark chocolate and ripe blackberries, the mouthfeel is fine and it’s not overly tannic or too full-bodied. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $15

90 Château du Bois Chantant 2012 Cuvée Lau-rence H. (Bordeaux Supérieur). This com-

plex, ripe wine balances firm wood aging with dark fruit. It’s full in the mouth, juicy and with plenty of potential. Solid tannins and rich berry flavors are coming together. Wait until 2017. Advantage Inter-national. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

90 Château La Grange Clinet 2012 Grande Réserve (Côtes de Bordeaux). Big tannins

and ripe fruits result in a wine that is dense and structured. The wood aging is apparent, thanks to a smoky character that pushes over the black currant fruit. From vineyards on slopes above the Garonne river, this is a solid wine with a good future. Drink from 2017. Luneau USA Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

BEST BUYS

90 McManis 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cali-fornia). Richness, depth and generosity are

good traits of this full-bodied but smooth-textured Cabernet. Light oak accents don’t cover up the ripe, juicy, almost jammy blackberry and cherry flavors that fill the mouth and linger on the finish. It’s an all-around crowd pleaser that has everything in bal-ance. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

90 Noble Vines 2013 446 San Bernabe Chardon-nay (Monterey County). Aromas of lightly

roasted and salted peanuts, Golden Delicious apples and toasted bread introduce this wine. It’s soft on the palate, but with refreshing grapefruit-powered bitterness and cement-like mineral underpinnings. Best Buy. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $13

89 McManis 2013 Petite Sirah (California). An appetizing hickory-smoke aroma and bold

fruit flavors make this one stand out, yet it doesn’t go too far with the woody character. A hint of bacon blends well with the ripe blackberry flavors, and the rich texture and firm tannins make it a great wine to pair with big portions of protein. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

BEST BUYS

89 McManis 2013 Viognier (River Junction). It’s easy to enjoy the ripe pear, peach, vanilla

and cream flavors in this extremely smooth, mellow Viognier. The texture is nice and rich, the body is full, the flavors just short of sweet and the finish lingers a long time. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

89 Pennywise 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cali-fornia). Wood-fire aromas and flavors give

this medium-bodied Cabernet a peppery, spicy per-sonality, and suggest grilled or smoked meat as good pairings. While the smoky, oaky character is strong, the wine has generous, ripe fruit flavors, rich but not harsh tannins, vibrant acidity and a lingering finish. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

88 Borsao 2013 Garnacha (Campo de Borja). As usual, this Garnacha is friendly, but serious

enough to satisfy all palates. Floral berry aromas lead off the bouquet, leading to a juicy, fresh and pure palate. Flavors of raspberry, plum and a dash of spice finish with a good texture. Fine Estates From Spain. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $9

WINEMAG.COM | 15

BEST BUYS

88 Firesteed 2012 Pinot Gris (Oregon). Fleshy and fruity, with upfront flavors of orange

and pear, this tasty effort is ready for immediate enjoyment. Whiffs of Graham cracker and cinna-mon spice add interest through the finish. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $13

88 Firesteed 2010 Riesling (Oregon). Done in a ripe and fleshy style, this vintage is in its

prime drinking window. Mixed peach, lemon, stone and citrus fruit, along with a slice of honeydew mel-on, make this a mouth-filling, all-purpose Riesling, with barely perceptible sweetness. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 11.4% Price: $13

88 McManis 2013 Chardonnay (River Junction). This light-bodied Chardonnay makes a nice

break from rich, heavy, oaky versions. Aromas of dried thyme and parsley lead to pleasing fruit fla-vors of pear and peach. It has enough texture to fill the mouth and enough crispness to stay clean on the finish. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

BEST BUYS

88 Oak Grove 2013 Family Reserve Chardonnay (California). This achieves a tasty balance

between vivid fruit flavors and those butter, nut-meg and almond influences that can be coaxed out of Chardonnay grapes. It’ll be difficult to tire of this one, because of its ripe apple and spice and bright lemony crispness. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $8

88 Pennywise 2012 Pinot Noir (California). Smoky and assertive in aroma, this is con-

centrated in flavor, with ripe black cherry, a touch of almost-sweet boysenberry and plenty of toasty, oaky shadings. Not sweet, but as rich and compel-ling as a blackberry tart. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

88 Salentein 2013 Portillo Estate Bottled Mal-bec (Uco Valley). Dark in color, this chunky,

ripe Malbec opens with blackberry, earth and rub-ber aromas. That bold, full quality carries onto the palate, which is staunch and bullish, with pepper and berry flavors that finish dry, yet weighty and lush. Palm Bay International. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $11

BEST BUYS

88 Schmitt Söhne 2013 Relax Riesling (Mosel). Pine frond and pollen notes accent brisk

lemon and pear in this lithe off-dry Riesling. The palate bristles with acidity, but yellow cherry and peach flavors shine through sweetly on the finish. Schmitt-Söhne USA. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 9% Price: $10

88 Schmitt Söhne Family Wines 2013 Qual-itätswein Riesling (Rheinhessen). Crisp and

fruity are apt words to describe this bright, refresh-ing wine. Off dry in style, it’s juicy in sweet white-grapefruit flavor accented by zesty acidity and a polished, mineral warmth on the finish. Schmitt-Söhne USA. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 9.5% Price: $9

87 Belle Ambiance 2012 Chardonnay (Califor-nia). It’s easy to like this vibrant Chardonnay

for its generous fruit flavors, subtle oak influence and creamy texture. It smells like a fruit tart and tastes fresh and rich at the same time. The ripe fruit flavors grow on the finish. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

BUYINGGUIDE


BEST BUYS

87 Borsao 2013 Rosé (Campo de Borja). Peach, melon and brown sugar aromas make for a

pleasant and full bouquet. This is plump and healthy on the tongue, with fleshy peach tones that finish dusty, round and a touch sweet in flavor. Drink now. Fine Estates From Spain. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $9

87 Landshut 2013 Riesling (Rheinhessen). Ac-cented with faint hints of lime and lemon,

the nose on this off-dry Riesling is largely neutral. The palate, by contrast, is surprisingly luscious in sunny Meyer lemon and nectarine flavors. It finish-es moderately long, with a streak of spine-tingling acidity. Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 9.5% Price: $5

87 Zolo 2014 Sustainably Farmed Estate Grown and Bottled Torrontés (Mendoza). This is a

clean, non-oily Torrontés with tropical-fruit aro-mas. A balanced palate propels lychee, citrus and melon flavors toward a slightly chunky palate. This aromatic wine is in the heart of its quality window; drink immediately. Vino Del Sol. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $11

BEST BUYS

86 Barton & Guestier 2013 Passeport Sauvignon Blanc-Sémillon (Bordeaux Blanc). The blend

of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon has produced an attractive, fruity wine that’s young and fresh. Light and bright, with delicious final acidity, its structure suggests it could age; drink from the end of 2015. Barton & Guestier USA. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $10

86 Borsao 2013 Viña Borgia (Campo de Borja). A value wine all the way, this young Garnacha

offers fresh red-fruit aromas and touches of earth and spice. The palate is equally fresh and lively, with raspberry, red plum and pepper flavors. Juicy acidity and a hint of chocolate are found on the fin-ish. Fine Estates From Spain. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $8

85 Belle Ambiance 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). Unabashedly oaky, this has a

smooth texture and ripe plummy flavors. Techni-cally, it’s a dry wine, but it sure smells and tastes a bit sweet because of the oak-derived brown sugar and maple syrup characters. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13% Price: $10

BEST BUYS

85 Black Box 2013 Pinot Noir (California). A solid, light-red wine emerges from this box,

showing toasty, oaky aromas, raspberry and plum flavors and a rich texture. While it doesn’t have strong Pinot Noir varietal character, it’s an enjoy-able, mild and easy-to-drink wine. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $25/3 L

85 Borsao 2013 Monte Oton Garnacha (Campo de Borja). Plum, blackberry and graham

cracker aromas show a funky edge on the nose of this fruit-forward wine. The jumpy palate is bright and vibrant, with young, fresh raspberry and plum flavors. Fine Estates From Spain. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $9

85 Happy Camper 2013 Chardonnay (Califor-nia). Lots of fruit flavor and a touch of

sweetness make this easy on the palate. Flavors like pear, apple and pineapple fill the mouth, with hints of vanilla and cream mixed in. It’s medium-bodied and a touch soft. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $9

WINEMAG.COM | 17

BEST BUYS

85 Oak Grove 2013 Family Reserve Viognier (California). Soft in texture and floral in

aroma, this soothing wine should quiet down spicy food or make a nice, calming cocktail before dinner. It’s medium bodied, with unobtrusive mixed tropi-cal- and stone-fruit flavors. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $8

84 Black Box 2013 Red Elegance (California). Ripe tomato, prune and herb flavors come

with some sweetness and a soft, full texture. Still, it has enough tannin and acidity to keep it lively on the finish. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $25/3 L

84 Zagarrón 2013 Hacienda Zargón Sauvignon Blanc (La Mancha). This is a touch mealy on

the nose, with ripe stone-fruit and melon aromas. A juicy, direct palate follows, with citrus and green-fruit flavors that finish quick and clean. Legacy Vintners. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $8

CORRECTIONOn page 78 of the Best of Year 2014 issue, we incorrectly identified Trumer Pils as originating in Germany. The beer originated in Austria.

88 Firesteed 2012 Pinot Gris (Oregon). For full review see page 15. Best Buy.

abv: 13.7% Price: $13

87 Chehalem 2012 Ridgecrest Vineyards Pinot Gris (Ribbon Ridge). Bone-dry and high in

alcohol, this wine somewhat cloaks the heat in firm acidity. Fruit flavors favor melon and pear, lightly spiced. You may wish to drink it chilled to up the tang and smooth out the finish. —P.G. abv: 15.2% Price: $29

87 Klee 2013 Dampier Vineyard Pinot Gris (Co-lumbia Gorge). As is sometimes the case with

screwcapped wines, this wine has a sharp aroma of sulfur when first opened. Let it blow off and you’ll find a rather elegant white, with lightly sweet pear fruit, a hint of toast and excellent balance. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $15

86 Erath 2013 Pinot Gris (Oregon). Perfectly serviceable, yet simple and plain, this

straightforward wine has crisp apple and pear fruit, with a finish that turns slightly bitter. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $14

85 Oak Knoll 2013 Sheppard Vineyard Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). This starts to fall flat

even as it hits the mouth. It’s got some puckery cit-rus and apple fruit, then rolls into a thin finish. The aftertaste shows some slightly bitter skin flavors. —P.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $14

CHARDONNAY

96 Domaine Serene 2011 Récolte Chardonnay (Dundee Hills). This is the winery’s top

Chardonnay, kept in bottle an extra year prior to release. Even in a challenging vintage such as 2011 it’s a huge wine with astonishing concentration and power. The fruit has coiled intensity—so potent that it seems ready to burst wide open. Ripe apple and peach, olive oil, toasted almonds and plenty of new oak flavors abound. It’s a jaw-dropper, and may be drunk now through 2022. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $125

96 Ponzi 2012 Aurora Vineyard Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). For full review see page

3. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.9% Price: $60

95 The Eyrie Vineyards 2012 Original Vines Re-serve Chardonnay (Dundee Hills). Sourced

from the original 1965 planting, this wine demands your patience and full attention. A deep straw, slightly tawny hue, it opens with lightly spicy, nu-anced threads of mint, hay, olive oil, green banana and almond. It seems almost ephemeral, but with some hours of breathing time it opens into a full-bodied, dense and compelling wine with the extra

dimensions that old vines can provide. Drink now through 2030. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $45

94 Domaine Serene 2012 Côte Sud Vineyard Chardonnay (Dundee Hills). Five different

Dijon clones go into this barrel-fermented wine. It starts out tightly wound, well-defined with a min-eral base under ripe flavors of caramel apple. The crisp, razor-sharp acidity lets the fresh apple fruit shine through, wreathed in notes of flint and smoke and finished with pretty barrel toast. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $75

93 Domaine Serene 2012 Clos du Lune Vineyard Chardonnay (Dundee Hills). Showing more

toast than butter, this is a firm, concisely knit and dense wine. Very ripe flavors of apple and peach are wrapped in a frame of toasty oak and caramel. Deca-dent and delicious, it rewards some extra breathing time and can be cellared 2021–2023. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $70

93 Domaine Serene 2012 Clos du Soleil Vineyard Chardonnay (Dundee Hills). Scents of but-

tered popcorn and oiled nuts ride over a rich mid-palate with ripe kiwi, melon and apple fruits. The barrel fermentation brings a wealth of toast and butter flavors, and the length of the finish is superb. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $75

93 Ponzi 2012 Avellana Vineyard Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). This Ponzi-owned vine-

yard is in the Chehalem Mountains AVA (but not listed as such). It’s bright and tense, with coiled en-ergy and flavors that do need some hours to breathe open. Poached pear, lemon curd and caramel apple are in the mix. At first a little hot in the finish, it smoothes out and turns into a buttery gem. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $60

92 Domaine Serene 2012 Evenstad Reserve Chardonnay (Dundee Hills). This reserve is

actually one of the winery’s less expensive Chardon-nays. It’s full, fruity and forward, with a lush mix of pineapple, peaches and tropical fruits, buttressed with juicy acids and highlights of toasted nuts. Thoroughly delicious, and ready for immediate en-joyment. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $55

92 The Eyrie Vineyards 2013 Estate Chardon-nay (Dundee Hills). Spicy pear and apple

fruit is at the core, with suggestions of green pine-apple, mint and lemon verbena. The subtle herbs and citrus components are layered throughout, and the structure favors long term cellaring. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $27

91 Omero 2012 Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). Ripe flavors suggest vanilla banana custard,

along with sweet apple and smooth caramel. Some

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time spent in French oak brings up a finish with highlights of toasted nuts. —P.G. abv: 13.1% Price: $38

91 WillaKenzie Estate 2011 Clos Marco Chardon-nay (Willamette Valley). Clos Marco pays

tribute to the late, much-loved winery dog, and a lovely memorial bottle it is. All stainless-fermented and aged, it’s loaded with tangy apple fruit and vivid acidity. Pineapple and citrus fruit provide addition-al accents, with a bright, concentrated, lengthy fin-ish. Put this one away for a few years and you might be surprised how good it will be. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

90 Carabella 2012 Dijon 76 Estate Chardon-nay (Chehalem Mountains). Tightly wound

and sculpted fruit anchors an appealing Chardon-nay with ample influence from barrel aging. In this excellent, fruit-forward vintage, plenty of weight characterizes the core apple flavors, which are wrapped in a lush coating of toast, butter pecan and nougat. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $30

90 David Hill 2012 Estate Reserve Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). Forward and aromatic,

this opens with a floral/vanilla component, married to a caramel apple core. The wine spent 18 months in neutral oak, softening and rounding it out. It’s got some buttered nut flavors but nothing overdone, and it is absolutely drinking at its best already. Edi-tors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $20

89 Omero 2012 Extended Tirage Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). The first impression of

this low abv bottling is that it is a bit dilute, with tart apple and lemon flavors dominating. With ad-ditional airing, it does expand and soften up the sharp edges, pulling the oak frame into focus and laying in notes of vanilla wafer and toasted grain. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $58

88 Chehalem 2012 Ian’s Reserve Stoller Vine-yards Chardonnay (Dundee Hills). One-third

new and one-third once-used oak barrels bring gen-erous flavors of toast and buttered popcorn into fo-cus. The tightly wound fruit needs some breathing time to come forward, with a nice mix of melon and apple. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $40

88 Iris Vineyards 2013 After Dinner Chardonnay (Oregon). The residual sugar is not indicat-

ed, but this is not a super-sweet dessert wine; it falls more into the off-dry camp. A mix of orange, peach and apricot fruit, slightly candied, it has buoyant acidity and a toasty finish from nine months in all new French oak. Foie gras anyone? —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $24/375 ml

87 A Blooming Hill Vineyard 2013 Chardonnay (Chehalem Mountains). A whiff of vitamin

pill, vanilla and citrus rind leads to a fresh, light wine with crisp apple fruit and a nice touch of hon-eycomb. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $15

87 Chehalem 2013 INOX Unoaked Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). Done entirely in stain-

less, this offers crisp, clean green apple fruit flavor, with suggestions of pear, ginger and a dash of sweet spice. It’s pleasant, just a bit dilute, and ready for immediate enjoyment. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $19

87 Roots 2012 Fairsing Vineyard Chardonnay (Yamhill-Carlton District). A subtle wine,

with delicate, lightly buttery flavors of apple and peach. It gains complexity as it breathes, and re-wards your attention with a medium-long finish. —P.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $35

PINOT BLANC

92 The Eyrie Vineyards 2013 Pinot Blanc (Dundee Hills). An immaculate wine, show-

casing the grace and elegance of which this variety is capable. It’s a delicate, perfectly balanced mix of green fruits—apple, gooseberry—fresh herbs and a crisp bite of celery. It’s just rounded off enough to warm up the acidity and provide a hint of white peach as it rolls through an extended and detailed finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $21

91 David Hill 2013 Estate Pinot Blanc (Willa-mette Valley). This cool-climate wine offers

relatively low alcohol and a delicate, mineral-driven structure. A light floral note opens into a complex, invigorating palate, mixing honeysuckle, beeswax, apple and wet stone. It comes from original, own-rooted, 1965 plantings according to the winery. Edi-tors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 11% Price: $22

90 Apolloni 2013 Pinot Blanc (Willamette Val-ley). For full review see page 9. Editors’

Choice. abv: 12.5% Price: $16

90 WillaKenzie Estate 2013 Pinot Blanc (Yam-hill-Carlton District). The vintage condi-

tions led to a sharply delineated, acid-driven Pinot Blanc in 2013. Tart with lip-smacking flavors of gooseberry, lime and celery, it also features grace notes of fresh herb. The strong focus and tight per-sistence make this one to enjoy over through 2020. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $21

87 Erath 2013 Pinot Blanc (Oregon). At first aro-matic with fresh pear and toasted hazelnuts,

this promises more than it delivers. Simple, clean

fruit flavors emphasize apple and pear, and the fin-ish comes on quickly, with a hard edge and a whiff of plastic. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

RIESLING

94 David Hill 2013 Estate Riesling (Willamette Valley). A gorgeous, rich and aromatic Ries-

ling, this is a tribute to the expressive dimensions that old vines can provide (these were planted in 1965). Ripe, lush citrus fruits, tangerine, spicy pe-koe tea and hints of tropical fruit all come into play. It’s a pure, lengthy, utterly delicious wine offering excellent value. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 11.9% Price: $18

89 Roots 2012 Hillside Vineyard Riesling (Co-lumbia Gorge). Yeasty and fragrant with

a fresh, wheat beer aspect, this delicate Riesling captures the gentle elegance of the grape’s aromat-ics and mouthfeel. There’s a nice mix of lemon tea, honey and mineral components, all in a low-alcohol but still quite dry style. —P.G. abv: 11.8% Price: $15

88 Chehalem 2013 Corral Creek Vineyards Ries-ling (Chehalem Mountains). Though gener-

ally done in a dry style, the Corral Creek is rarely if ever this tart, especially with alcohol so low. Acidic and bright, the fruit centers on green apples, lightly spiced. —P.G. abv: 10.2% Price: $29

88 Chehalem 2013 Ridegcrest Vineyards Wind Ridge Block Riesling (Ribbon Ridge). Tart

apple and citrus flavors abound, with suggestions of both flesh and skin. The residual sugar is 11 g/L but does not show as detectable sweetness. Refreshing, tangy and finishing with a clear minerality, this is Riesling on the green side of ripeness. —P.G. abv: 10.9% Price: $29

88 Firesteed 2010 Riesling (Oregon). For full review see page 15. Best Buy.

abv: 11.4% Price: $13

87 Chehalem 2013 Three Vineyard Riesling (Wil-lamette Valley). As with all the 2013 white

wines from Chehalem, the alcohol is way down and the acids up in this blend of the three estate vineyards. All-stainless fermented, it’s quite tart with green apple and grapefruit flavors dominating. —P.G. abv: 10% Price: $22

86 Coeur de Terre 2012 Dry Riesling (McMin-nville). This low abv, dry style wine does

not seem to have reached optimal ripeness. It’s pun-gent with pine tar, and tastes quite tart and lemony. The acids dominate, which suggests that it might best be served along with steamer clams or fresh oysters. —P.G. abv: 12.1% Price: $19

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OTHER WHITE WINES

96 Cayuse 2012 Cailloux Vineyard Viognier (Walla Walla Valley). A brilliant effort, this

belongs right up there with the very best New World Viogniers. White flowers, lemon curd and a lush mix of citrus aromas show immense concentration right from the start. Both precise and dense, the scents and flavors flow through into a tightly wound, mineral-soaked finish, bright with citrus and apri-cot fruit. The length and concentration are simply spectacular. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $70

92 Cowhorn 2013 Marsanne-Roussanne (Apple-gate Valley). A vibrantly aromatic wine

with notes of apricot, toast, nutty spices and cream displaying both detail and complexity. The palate is full-bodied yet still shows restraint with fruit and smoky flavors that keep the interest level high through the lingering finish. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 13.1% Price: $35

92 Cowhorn 2013 Viognier (Applegate Valley). Aged just three months in French oak (28%

new), the wine focuses on the fruit, with rich notes of apricot, pear and tangerine. It’s full-bodied with sweet fruit flavors and a long, lingering, exquisitely fruit-filled finish. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $35

91 Chehalem 2013 Ridgecrest Vineyards Grüner Veltliner (Ribbon Ridge). Lighter and lower

in alcohol than the previous vintage, this takes the flavors up a notch, with a leesy, textural, refresh-ing mouthfeel. Grapefruit and lime rind are among the highlights, setting up a tart, dry, mineral-soaked finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 12.8% Price: $24

91 Cowhorn 2013 Spiral 36 (Applegate Valley). A blend of near-equal parts Viognier, Marsanne

and Roussanne, this is aromatic with notes of corn on the cob, dried apricot and tangerine. The pal-ate is full-bodied with sweet apricot flavors and a smoky finish (20% new French oak). —S.S. abv: 13% Price: $28

88 Roots 2012 Deux Vert Vineyard Melon (Yam-hill-Carlton District). At first quite tart, al-

most sour, with a strong yeasty aroma, this unusual wine can seem simple and dilute. Give it several hours to open up and it rewards you with delicate yet persistent flavors of citrus and stone, with re-freshing acidity. Such low-alcohol white wines can be a delight with shellfish and other appetizers. —P.G. abv: 11.8% Price: $15

85 Valley View 2012 Anna Marie Sauvignon Blanc (Rogue Valley). Stainless-steel fer-

mented and aged, it’s lightly aromatic with notes of herbs and kiwi. The palate is medium-bodied with

sweet tropical fruit flavors but the concentration doesn’t seem there. —S.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

SPARKLING WINES

91 Sokol Blosser NV Sparkling Rosé of Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Such a tiny amount pro-

duced, yet the quality makes you wish for much, much more. The pale coppery rosé is wonderfully rich and toasty, with lovely raspberry and cherry fruit, a fine bead plus excellent concentration and finesse. —P.G. abv: 11.5% Price: $60

88 Chehalem 2013 Ridgecrest Vineyards Sext Riesling (Ribbon Ridge). Returning to

Moscato-levels of sweetness and alcohol, this low-pressure bubbly retains bracing minerality as well. It’s juicy and light, a perfect apéritif or mixer for Sunday morning mimosas. —P.G. abv: 7% Price: $24

ROSÉS

90 Cória 2013 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). For full review see page 10. Editors’


91 Cayuse 2012 Edith Armada Vineyard Grenache Rosé (Walla Walla Valley). Made from grapes

picked early specifically for rosé, this bone-dry wine keeps alcohol low and flavors rich. A pale copper hue, it offers flavors that mimic a cava, without the bubbles. Racy minerality underscores a juicy, fruit-driven palate of lemon, lime and orange. A hint of coffee and crème brulée pokes through the refresh-ing finish. —P.G. abv: 12.4% Price: $45

91 Domaine Serene NV R Dry Rosé (Oregon). This nonvintage rosé, modeled after a Bandol, is

a blend of grapes and vintages, yet retains superb freshness and offers unusual complexity. Rich and tart, with a creamy strawberry core, it also shows sandalwood highlights and a hint of barrel toast. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

PINOT NOIR

95 Brick House 2012 Evelyn’s Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). Evelyn’s is the winery’s reserve bot-

tling. From first sniff to last sip it’s a magical wine, conveying the richness and complexity that Biody-namic farming can convey. Cherries, cut tobacco, iron filings and dark chocolate flavors swirl together in a lush tapestry. The texture, tension and balance are superb, and time spent in 50% new French oak

puts a wisp of smoke through the engaging finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $68

95 Elk Cove 2012 Roosevelt Pinot Noir (Wil-lamette Valley). For full review see page 3.

Cellar Selection. abv: 14% Price: $85

95 Ponzi 2012 Aurora Vineyard Pinot Noir (Wil-lamette Valley). For full review see page 3.

Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.9% Price: $100

94 Brick House 2012 Cuvée du Tonnelier Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). Tight and tannic when

first opened, this 100% Pommard clone Pinot ul-timately bursts open with black cherry and cassis fruit, a strong streak of cola, and notes of moist earth, chocolate and espresso. A firm through-line carries it into a dense finish, which has the author-ity and power to reward another decade at least of cellar time. Drink now through 2025. Cellar Selec-tion. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $45

94 Elk Cove 2012 Reserve Pinot Noir (Willa-mette Valley). Sourced from select barrels

drawn from five estate vineyards, the reserve spent 10 months in oak. It is only made in exceptional years, and 2012 was certainly among the best in memory. Berry, cherry and toast components are here in full measure, with a sumptuous mocha-in-fused finish. Still young, this wine will show best with aeration, or tuck it away for some extra bottle age. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $100

94 Ponzi 2012 Abetina 2 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Deep, dark and instantly compel-

ling, this powerful wine features black cherry and cassis fruit adorned with clove, citrus, cardamom, nougat and mocha. The chewy tannins and overall tightness suggest that further cellaring will contin-ue to improve it. Drink 2016 through 2030. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $100

94 Sokol Blosser 2012 Big Tree Block Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). Among a half-dozen Pinots

released by the winery in 2012, this seems to have the most stuffing. Dense black cherry, cassis, and dark chocolate flavors carry highlights of earth, iron, graphite and tar. It’s expressive, long and com-pact, with aging potential through at least 2025. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $70

93 Domaine Serene 2011 Grace Vineyard Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). This lovely, evocative

wine celebrates the finesse that characterizes the finest Pinot Noirs. Delicate nuances of bramble, cinnamon, tar and nougat wrap around and weave through a core of black cherry fruit. Ample acidity

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ensures much life ahead, through at least 2025. Cel-lar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $175

93 Ponzi 2012 Vigneto Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Sourced entirely from the Gemini

vineyard, this cuvée is dedicated to a grower whose fruit was especially noteworthy in the given vintage. Aromatic with intense components of citrus, pine needle, pepper and coriander, this orchestrates all those accents around brambly berry fruits. Tannins are stiff and substantial, and the finishing flavors of dark chocolate and espresso leave you reaching for the next glass. Drink now through 2025. Cellar Se-lection. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $75

93 Scott Paul 2012 Audrey Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). The excellent Maresh vineyard is the

source of these grapes. Lovely aromas of leaf and cherry open into a wine generous with pretty fla-vors of black raspberry and cherry. The tannins are still a little stiff, with black tea, green tobacco, and a definite dryness. Give this extra breathing time and it reveals some additional complexity. —P.G. abv: 13.1% Price: $83

92 Brick House 2012 Les Dijonnais Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). All the Brick House wines

are certified organic and Biodynamic. Les Dijonnais spent 15 months in 30% new French oak. The open-ing aromas lead with fresh, lively, buoyant notes of cherry fruit. With more exposure to air its tannins get a bit chewy, and the wine shows impressive strength through a long finish. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $52

92 Carabella 2012 Inchinnan Pinot Noir (Che-halem Mountains). Inchinnan, the winery

explains, is a Scottish word that means some little special place. Special indeed is this fruit, a three-clone estate vineyard selection. Blackberry and black cherry dappled with cinnamon is at the heart of it, supported with balanced natural acidity. A bit darker in color and flavor than the estate bottling, it’s immediately enjoyable and structured for medi-um-term cellaring. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $54

92 Domaine Serene 2011 Jerusalem Hill Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Consistent with

the winery’s excellent lineup of 2011’s, this is an elegant wine, precisely sculpted with plenty of un-derlying acidity. Cherry, cola and earth components meld seamlessly, and the new oak aging shows ad-mirable restraint, allowing the fruit to shine. As with a number of top wines from the vintage, this should age gracefully now through the mid-2020s. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13.4% Price: $90

92 Domaine Serene 2011 Two Barns Vineyard Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). Dark fruits, no-

tably blackberry and black cherry, are hallmarks of this low-elevation, 35-acre site. Impeccable balance

characterizes Domaine Serene Pinots, this being no exception, but here there is a bit more juicy power, more earthy punch to the tannins, and a nice finish-ing touch of chocolate. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $90

92 Gypsy Dancer 2010 Tribute Pinot Noir (Wil-lamette Valley). Extra time in bottle has

proved rewarding for this varietally pure, aromatic, even pungent wine. A complex bouquet yields rose petals, sweet spices, coffee and cedar, and flavors follow through a subtle, penetrating finish. The spicy, brambly berry fruit carries a hint of brine. Drink now through 2025. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $65

92 Penner-Ash 2012 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). For full review see page 7. Editors’

Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $48

92 Ponzi 2012 Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This reserve bottling spent 20

months in 50% new French oak. Spicy and com-plex, it deftly moves from pretty scents of lavender and blueberry into a firmly knit wine nuanced with nutmeg, star anise, ginger, citrus and tobacco. Drink now through 2020. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $60

92 Sokol Blosser 2012 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). The least-expensive designate is also one of

Sokol Blosser’s best in 2012. After opening with a whiff of funk supported with a flinty hint of clay, it moves into a complex palate with both grip and def-inition. The acid component brings flavors of sweet citrus and orange peel, while the overall structure and pretty red fruits suggest that this is a wine to cellar. Drink now through 2024. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $38

92 WillaKenzie Estate 2012 Jory Hills Vineyard Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). Showing excep-

tional density and concentrated black cherry and cassis fruit, this young wine opens to reveal further details of earth, iron and espresso. Muscular and sturdy, it puts the fruit of a top-notch vintage into play with the condensed power of a cellar-worthy wine. Enjoy after 2020. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $48

92 WillaKenzie Estate 2012 Kiana Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). A light, pretty

rose color, this comes out with a burst of raspber-ries and roses, highlighted with a lick of chocolate. The back end shows some phenolic punch, putting a tight wrap on an elegant wine with the ability to improve through 2020 at least. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $48

91 Carabella 2012 Estate Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). This estate-grown Pinot Noir

artfully blends seven different clones, capturing the nuances of each, and melding them into a fascinat-

ing wine. Dig in—you’ll find plenty of black cherry and cassis fruit, streaked with iron, espresso and licorice. The texture and length add more subtlety, with a delicate hint of sandalwood at the very end. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $45

91 Chehalem 2012 Ridgecrest Vineyards Reserve Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). Dark, tart, laced

with licorice, earth and tar, this is a standout among the winery’s 2012 Pinots. Black cherry and cassis fruit anchors a substantial, mouthfilling, and quite tannic wine, with medium-term aging potential. Drink now through 2020. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $60

91 Domaine Serene 2011 Côte Sud Vineyard Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). This comes from the old-

est estate vineyard, now reaching full maturity. Tart citrus flavors underscore pretty strawberry, drifting into a hint of well-ripened preserves. There’s a light touch with the new oak, keeping the wine in perfect balance. Drink now through 2020. —P.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $85

91 Domaine Serene 2011 Evenstad Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Light and elegantly

crafted, this iconic release is the textbook example of well-made cool-vintage Oregon Pinot Noir. It’s aromatic, floral and sillky. The tangy berry fruit is clean and ripe, though definitely on the lighter side. Pretty berry and cherry flavors are set against tart acids, with just a touch of milk chocolate from bar-rel aging. —P.G. abv: 13.1% Price: $65

91 Domaine Serene 2011 Winery Hill Vineyard Pi-not Noir (Dundee Hills). Forward and nicely

rounded off, this brings spicy cherry and cranberry fruit front and center. There are well-integrated streaks of herb, a dash of stem, and a dusting of white pepper. Give it an hour or two to breathe, or better yet, decant before drinking. —P.G. abv: 13.1% Price: $85

91 Ponzi 2012 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). For full review see page 9.

abv: 13.3% Price: $40

91 Roots 2012 Racine Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). The winery’s reserve bottling, this

is named for the Wisconsin town from which the owners migrated. Coincidently, Racine also trans-lates to roots in French. Cherry, mocha and toast scents and rich complementary flavors explode from the glass. This is by far the richest and deepest wine from among the winery’s 2012 Pinots. Lovely fruit and a streak of iron give it a strong, grippy fin-ish. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $60

91 Scott Paul 2012 La Paulée Pinot Noir (Wil-lamette Valley). Pretty scents of rosewater,

raspberries and cherries introduce this light and pleasing wine. It carries some of the charm of a good

WINEMAG.COM | 21

strawberry soda, with forward fruit and a delicate frame. That said, it is not just a simple fruity wine, and gains weight and complexity as it breathes. Give it time to show you all it has. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $39

91 Scott Paul 2012 Pre Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). From the acclaimed Nysa vineyard, this el-

egant wine offers sniffs of fresh tobacco plus plum and cherry fruit. There’s a touch of espresso and some of the minerality typical of the vineyard. In previous vintages this same wine was labeled as Les Gourmandises or (in 2011) The Long Run. —P.G. abv: 13.1% Price: $48

91 Scott Paul 2012 Quatre Journaux Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). Journaux, the winery

notes, is an old Burgundian term for the amount of land a person could plow by horse in a single day. The Azana vineyard is the source for the fruit, and is about four journaux in size. It brings flavors of strawberry candy, raspberry soda, and a bit of Dr Pepper. At first a forward, fruity, charming wine, it turns brambly and herbal in the well-balanced fin-ish. —P.G. abv: 13.1% Price: $70

91 Sokol Blosser 2012 Orchard Block Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). Purple plum and spicy cher-

ry fruits hold down the center here, making this a forward, easy-drinking wine of medium weight and length. It’s quite expressive of the vintage, which of-fers lovely ripe fruit first and foremost. Drink this while you let some of the tighter selections glean a bit of bottle age. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $70

91 Sokol Blosser 2012 Peach Tree Block Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). The Peach Tree cuvée actually

carries a whiff of peaches—possibly the power of suggestion. Its strawberry fruit includes an herbal component, more like a wine from the Eola Hills than Dundee. Overall structure is fine, and aging in 42% new oak puts some toasted coconut into the finish. This has the balance and persistence to age nicely through 2025. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $70

91 WillaKenzie Estate 2012 Aliette Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). This selection is

from the winery’s first planted vineyard, now near-ing 20 years of age. It’s all Pommard clone, offering a burst of pretty cherry fruit backed with stiff tannins and a streak of iron. Still showing some sharp edges, it’s just out of 15 months in 50% new oak, and will benefit from aerating or further bottle age. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $48

91 WillaKenzie Estate 2012 Pierre Léon Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). Built with a

mix of clones from the estate vineyards, this tart, tight, still young and stiff wine delivers black fruits cloaked in pepper, espresso and dark chocolate. At this age it opens rather grudgingly, and will reward

your patience. Decant or tuck it away for a few years. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $48

91 Z’IVO 2010 Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). Spicy and focused, this has pinpoint flavors

of lightly candied cranberry, orange peel, brambly thistle and a touch of mushroom. It tastes much better than that may sound, but the range and com-plexity are what elevates it above many of its peers. If any of your holiday fare features cranberry sauce, this is the wine to choose. —P.G. abv: 13.4% Price: $40

90 Domaine Serene 2011 Yamhill Cuvée Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). The widely avail-

able Yamhill Cuvée is bright and polished, showing a tangy mix of cranberry and strawberry fruit. It’s built with precision, accenting the crisp fruit with streaks of lemon, orange and grapefruit. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $45

90 King Estate 2011 Old School Vineyards Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Classy and fo-

cused, this elegant effort features sharp citrus and raspberry flavors, in a tight, vertical, fruit-driven style. Given its depth and tangy acidity, it seems a good candidate for some additional bottle age, though not long term cellaring. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $55

90 Knudsen 2012 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). This is the first vintage made by the vine-

yard owners in 25 years, a welcome return for one of the founding families of Oregon viticulture. Strawberries and raspberries, tart and spicy, anchor an elegant and interesting young wine. The finish continues clean and well-defined. Don’t look for a blockbuster style; rather it’s more delicate and re-fined. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $55

90 Omero 2012 Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). Fragrances of plum, black cherry and sas-

safras come up quickly, followed with cherry candy backed with tart acidity. The palate is nicely layered and persistent, and the wine gains complexity as it breathes. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $38

90 Roots 2012 Fairsing Vineyard Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). The nose hints at

orange peel, muted berry and sassafras. It’s musky, with soft cherry fruit wrapped in light baking spic-es. It’s drinking quite nicely, and should be enjoyed over the next couple of years. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $40

90 Sokol Blosser 2012 Goosepen Block Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). Different vintages fa-

vor different sites, and this Goosepen Block offer-ing, though perfectly made, is not quite as dense the other vintage offerings from Sokol Blosser. A wash of milk chocolate surrounds raspberry and cherry fruit. Smooth and supple, with a streak of cola and

red licorice, it fades gently into a finish tinged with flavors of clay. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $80

89 Apolloni 2012 Reserve Pinot Noir (Willa-mette Valley). Just two barrels—both new

French oak—were selected for this reserve bottling. There’s a bit more concentration here than in the estate Pinot, with cranberry and cherry fruit, bal-ancing acidity and tannins that show flavors of black tea. A whiff and taste of toast adds some zip to the finish. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

89 Chehalem 2012 Ridgecrest Vineyards Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). Dark, ripe and juicy,

this showcases the exceptional 2012 vintage with plum and black cherry fruit. That said, there is more than a slight hint of earth and stem in the tannins, and the wine is slow to open. Additional bottle age and/or vigorous aeration are recommended. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $50

89 Chehalem 2012 Ridgecrest Vineyards Wind Ridge Block Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). Black

fruits—raspberry, cherry and plum—mingle with clean earth, cinnamon and chocolate. The wine has grip and power, though currently some excess acid-ity pokes through the finish. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $50

89 David Hill 2011 Estate BlackJack Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). BlackJack is sourced

from the oldest block in the vineyard, planted in 1965. Complex, old-vine details bring a brambly note to strawberry and cherry fruit, along with cit-rus, sassafras and iron. There’s an earthy, lightly roasted or charred note also, likely from the barrels. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $55

89 Erath 2012 Estate Selection Pinot Noir (Wil-lamette Valley). This is a soft, forward, flo-

ral and fruity wine that seems to have had all its edges sanded smooth. Nothing wrong with that—it drinks nicely right out of the bottle, with black cherry fruit annotated with scents of violets, smoke and char. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $34

89 Erath 2012 Oregon Pinot Noir (Oregon). This is a fine budget bottle, with an aromatic mix

of tart berry and pine needle. A streak of chocolate surrounds a supple, smooth wine that carries its tangy fruit through a satisfying finish, with just a suggestion of tanned leather. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

89 Gypsy Dancer 2012 Legacy Pinot Noir (Wil-lamette Valley). Well constructed, elegant

and airy, this offers scents of raspberries, sour cher-ries and pine needles. A forest-floor set of flavors underlies the trim fruit, good structure and the bal-ance to develop further in bottle. The inscription—

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unfined, unfiltered and un-inoculated—indicates only native yeast was used. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $45

89 King Estate 2011 Backbone Pinot Noir (Willa-mette Valley). Fragrant and soft, this sends

up a chocolaty mix of strawberry and raspberry fruit scents and flavors. It’s a barrel selection from a variety of vineyards, and is young enough to show a stiff, somewhat herbal edge to the tannins. Give it an hour or two in a decanter for best drinking. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $55

89 Omero 2012 Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). Lean but well-structured, this melds straw-

berry and raspberry fruit to fresh herbs and hints of violets. The tannins are on the astringent side, but the wine has the precision and balance to age grace-fully 2021–2023. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $38

89 Roots 2012 Roots Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). Citrus and

chocolate come up from the glass, wrapped together like chocolate-covered orange peel. The core fruit is tangy raspberry, spicy and focused. This drinks like a young wine in terms of both vineyard and bottle age. It should continue to improve with a bit of cel-lar time. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $40

89 Roots 2012 Saffron Fields Vineyard Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). Maybe it’s

the name, but there does seem to be a hint of saffron in the lovely bouquet. Finesse and complexity are the stated goals of the winery, expressed beautifully here in an elegant mix of black cherry, mocha and coffee flavors. The mouthfeel, texture, and smooth finish make it a pleasure to drink. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $40

89 Sokol Blosser 2012 Estate Cuvée Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). Tart with flavors of straw-

berry and raspberry, this opens slowly, seeming to be a bit shallow at first. Give it some extra hours to breathe and it puts on more flesh, though the acids stick out. More bottle age should help it to smooth out. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $60

89 WillaKenzie Estate 2013 Gisèle Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). WillaKenzie’s

most affordable estate-grown Pinot, this opens with a truly lovely bouquet of rose petals, raspberries and dusty chocolate. Soft and smooth upon entry, it’s a light, detailed and sophisticated vineyard blend that spent 10 months in 20% new oak. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $30

89 Winter’s Hill 2012 Reserve Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). It’s difficult to discern what

elevates this to reserve level, other than it was a barrel selection prior to bottling. The oak aging adds

layers of flavors to the core of black cherry, with decadent accents of cola and coffee. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $55

88 Apolloni 2012 Estate Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Interesting animal notes permeate

the aromas, leading into an herbal midpalate with a well-balanced mix of light berry fruit, tart acids, and some leafy characteristics. Aged in French oak, with no indication of what percentage was new, the finish shows just a hint of chocolate. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $30

88 Coeur de Terre 2012 Renelle’s Block Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). From the

oldest planting in the estate (1999) this is a for-ward, loose-knit wine, with broad flavors of black cherry and cola. The streak of cola, often a compo-nent of Willamette Valley Pinot, really stands out here. Drink this soon, while it retains its youthful exuberance. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $65

88 Coeur de Terre 2012 Sarah Jane’s Block Re-serve Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Much

along the lines of the other three block reserves, this has forward, fruity flavors of black cherry and a big wash of cola. There’s a light hint of pepper; it’s drinking nicely and best enjoyed in the near term. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $65

88 David Hill 2011 Winemakers Cuvée Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). A cool year and a

northern Willamette valley location have produced a wine with cranberry more than cherry fruit. There’s a streak of root beer, coffee and charcoal. The roasted barrel flavors take over from the fruit, which turns quite tart and tannic. Pair this with an oily, cold-water fish such as salmon, and it should rock. —P.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $50

88 Erath 2011 Leland Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Forward and quite light (the vin-

tage was a cool one), this offers fruit flavors of pomegranate and tart berry. There is a generous swath of chocolate wrapping it, creating a rather silky yet simple, straightforward wine best enjoyed in the near term. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $50

88 Erath 2011 Prince Hill Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). Medium rose in color, with a hint

of orange already, this dry, tart and spicy vineyard selection offers tart raspberry fruit and a smooth, chocolaty finish. It does not seem to have the depth for cellaring, but drinks nicely at the moment. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $50

88 Iris Vineyards 2012 Reserve Pinot Noir (Or-egon). Oaky, spicy and tannic, this is show-

ing some sharp edges around moderately ripe plum and cherry fruit. It’s solid and substantial, a bit blocky, and currently showing more barrel influ-

ence than fruit. All estate fruit, 40% new French oak. Additional bottle age might improve the score. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $36

88 Omero 2012 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Vibrant and young, this offers tart cran-

berry and raspberry fruit set against baking spice highlights. It spent 10 months in French oak, mostly neutral, and is a clean, crisply defined wine with plenty of life ahead. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $28

88 Roots 2012 49 Rows Vineyard Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). Aromatic and spicy,

this shows a pretty blackberry fruit core, along with some root beer, smoke and espresso components. It’s concentrated without being at all heavy, forward and tasty with medium-term aging potential. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $40

88 Roots 2012 Sheboygandy Pinot Noir (Yam-hill-Carlton District). The name is a play

on words combining the owners’ Wisconsin roots and their admiration for Burgundy. Aromas suggest a fair amount of new oak was used here, lending a sweet and spicy aspect to the fruit flavors of straw-berry and cherry. It’s smooth and accessible, perfect for near-term enjoyment. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $45

88 RouteStock Cellars 2013 Route 99W Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Luisa Ponzi crafts

this rather delicate wine, with balanced flavors that reward your attention to detail. Watermelon and strawberries come wrapped in smooth tannins. Side flavors of earth, clove and peppery herb add wel-come complexity. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

88 WildStock 2013 Pinot Noir (Willamette Val-ley). A new brand from Scott Paul, this

relatively value-priced wine is tight and tart, with cranberry and black cherry fruit. The acidity juts out a bit, though that may improve with additional bottle age. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

88 Winter’s Hill 2012 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). Upon opening, this wine reveals strong

scents of bourbon barrel that punch through to the top, giving it a high-toned presence with buried fruit. Aerate it thoroughly and the black cherry and cola components fall into place, with the new oak accents back in proportion. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $34

87 Apolloni 2012 L Cuvée Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Moderate in scale, with an earthy set

of scents and flavors, this well-priced Pinot opens broadly across the palate, showing fruit flavors of cranberry and wild cherry. It’s a pleasant wine for near-term drinking, with a hint of bitterness in the tannins. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $22

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87 Coeur de Terre 2012 Abby’s Block Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Of the four

single-block offerings, this shows a bit more muscle and density. But even after many hours of aeration, it remains stubbornly tight, with drying tannins. There is a suggestion of plastic in the residual fin-ishing flavors. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $65

87 Coeur de Terre 2012 Héritage Reserve Pinot Noir (McMinnville). Tannic and chewy, this

Pinot seems to have over-reached itself. It’s built like a Cabernet, muscular, dark, and earthy. Black cherry fruit is cloaked in cola and dark chocolate flavors. There’s a lot going on here, just not in the varietal wheelhouse. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $36

87 Coeur de Terre 2012 Tallulah’s Run Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Chewy and

earthy, this matches simple cherry fruit to barrel flavors of dried wood. It seems to be moving rather quickly into maturity, with an astringent, leafy fin-ish. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $65

87 Firesteed 2012 Pinot Noir (Oregon). Aromati-cally interesting, this shows the spicy side

of Pinot, touching on clove, star anise, pepper and cinnamon. Raspberry fruit and some sharp acidity fill out the palate, which softens in the finish while maintaining an earthy, herbal edge. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $17

87 Iris Vineyards 2013 Pinot Noir (Oregon). Strongly herbal, peppery and showing more

than a hint of stem, this raspberry and root-beer style of Pinot hits the palate a bit sharp, and does a quick fade. —P.G. abv: 12.3% Price: $24

87 Roots 2012 Leroy Vineyard Pinot Noir (Che-halem Mountains). Tight and tart, this wine

shows aromas of delicate roses and raspberries that follow through on the palate. Flavors are pure and true, somewhat simple, with a fruit-forward aspect that suggests young vines. —P.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $40

87 Silvan Ridge 2012 Pinot Noir (Willamette Val-ley). This medium-weight Pinot Noir has

a whiff of the chicken yard among its aromas, but the well-ripened cherry fruit at the core more than compensates. There’s a hint of peach-skin pheno-lics, and the finish has enough stuffing to keep from fading too quickly. A good sipper for the near term. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

85 A Blooming Hill Vineyard 2013 Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). Plum, cherry and

cola scents promise more than the wine delivers. In the mouth it hints at rubber and turns thin and

rather sour. Give it maximum aeration and drink 2017–2018. —P.G. abv: 12.6% Price: $27

85 Oak Knoll 2011 Pinot Noir (Willamette Val-ley). This smells strongly of smoke, and

not just the sort of whiff you might get from a well-toasted barrel. This is more like the smoke of a campfire, and it permeates the flavors as well as the scent of the wine. There’s a suggestion of pretty plum underneath, along with a reductive rubbery scent in the finish. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $18

84 Plum Hill 2012 Pinot Noir (Willamette Val-ley). Barely two years after the harvest this

wine is already showing signs of early bricking. The fruit is quickly moving into secondary flavors of cooked plum and it shows some burnt, smoky notes in the tannins. Drink soon. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $28

84 Plum Hill 2012 Winemaker’s Barrel Select Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Flavors are

short and the mouthfeel stiffly tannic. A burst of cranberry and cherry fruit quickly hits some burnt-toast barrel flavors, with coffee grounds lending a bitter edge to the tannins. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $40

SYRAH

99 Cayuse 2011 En Chamberlin Vineyard Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). Dark and concentrat-

ed, this sends up complex aromas saturated with tar, asphalt, ink, steel, smoke and charred barbecue. It’s a beautiful wine, tight and textural, in perfect balance, with superb depth, precision and elegance. The most contemplative of a superb 2011 Cayuse lineup, this wine above all needs your full attention. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $75

98 Cayuse 2011 En Cerise Vineyard Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). The immediate impression is

of savory umami aromas pierced with pine needle and sage highlights. Red and black licorice, along with sweet cured meats, bring complexity to fruit flavors of berry, cherry and plum. Toss in Provençal spices, coffee grounds and the classic Cayuse earthi-ness that continues through a deep, firm, beautiful-ly defined finish. Drink now through 2030. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $75

96 Cayuse 2011 Cailloux Vineyard Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). Violet blossoms and orange

peel aromatics jump out, followed by scents and flavors of lamb tartare and mixed charcuterie. Co-fermented with 5% Viognier, it’s an elegant and beautifully proportioned wine, offering ripe purple fruits with finishing hints of baking spices and dark chocolate. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $90

94 Horsepower 2011 The Tribe Vineyard Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). Floral aromas and

tight raspberry fruit flavors are the first impression. Next come notes of wild game, with blood, herb and a bit of liver pâté. Unique, deep and yet somehow delicate, this has impressive complexity for a vine-yard’s first release. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $110

94 No Girls 2011 La Paciencia Vineyard Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). The first impression

is of steak tartare, with blood and a saline, sa-vory character. There’s a floral, violet topnote, and streaks of black olive, orange peel, umami and brine. Tight, toned and muscular, it’s set in a compact, perfectly proportioned frame that requires many hours of breathing to open fully. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $65

93 Cayuse 2011 Armada Vineyard Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). On display are the requisite

Cayuse flavors of funk, savory herb and composted earth, with moderately ripe black fruits in the back-ground. A whiff of pine needles and plenty of forest floor accents complete the picture. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $90

93 Cayuse 2011 Bionic Frog Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). Long-time admirers of this wine

may find the 2011 version a bit thin. It’s a more subtle wine than is customary, the expressive funk subsumed below lighter layers of peat moss, sea salt and white chocolate. With decanting, scents of shit-take mushroom, duck sauce and even chicken broth swirl up from the glass, with black tea flavors run-ning through the tannins. Quite good, yet somewhat muted. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $95

89 Coeur de Terre 2012 Estate Syrah (Willa-mette Valley). Willamette Valley Syrahs

are rare, and here’s why. Even in a picture-perfect vintage such as this, the abv doesn’t reach 13%. Nonetheless, this wine merits your attention. Tart and peppery, yet balanced and showing some depth of flavor, it’s a marriage of umami, citrus, raspberry and stem. High acid flavors of orange peel support it through a sharp, focused, lightly smoky finish. —P.G. abv: 12.9% Price: $40

86 Iris Vineyards 2012 Syrah (Oregon). This wine has a funky, chicken-yard aroma, and

sharp, spicy cranberry fruit. It fades quickly, with-out the depth of flavor one might wish for in a near-15% abv Syrah. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $24

GRENACHE

96 Cayuse 2011 Armada Vineyard God Only Knows Grenache (Walla Walla Valley). In-

tensely aromatic, this carries a wealth of layered fla-vors consistent with past vintages. Umami, sea salt,

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mineral and Provençal herbs comingle, with a rich component of raspberry, plum and cherry compôte. More layers appear through the finish, with orange liqueur and a whiff of tanned leather. Cellar Selec-tion. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $90

95 Horsepower 2011 Sur Echalas Vineyard Gre-nache (Walla Walla Valley). Densely planted

and labor intensive (it is actually tilled by Belgian draft horses), the vineyard’s first releases have been eagerly anticipated, and do not disappoint. Floral highlights are stacked over a swirl of umami, with subtle power and airiness. Delicate and tense, it’s packed with brambly berry flavors, minerally acids and fine-grained tannins. —P.G. abv: 13.1% Price: $110

95 No Girls 2011 La Paciencia Vineyard Grenache (Walla Walla Valley). This vineyard was

planted specifically for the No Girls project. The wine is fresh, fragrant and intensely floral, with a mix of rosewater and orange zest. Elegant, with a delicate, lacy texture, the flavors are savory and salty, braced with stiff, lightly peppery tannins. Notes of funk and mushroom come into play as it finishes gracefully and with unexpected length. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $65

88 Cowhorn 2012 20 Grenache (Applegate Val-ley). A brightly aromatic wine with notes of

raspberry jam, orange peel and baking spices. It’s tart and tangy, seeming to need some additional time in the bottle to come into its own. —S.S. abv: 13% Price: $45

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

97 Cayuse 2011 Widowmaker En Chamberlin Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla

Valley). This glorious, evocative wine calls up a rich and sensuous catalog of scents and flavors. Black truffle, sea salt, clean earth, fungus, strawberry, liquid rocks, umami, tar... the words pour out with each sniff and swallow. It’s detailed, substantial and refined, gathering itself for a long, generous, capti-vating finish. Drink now through 2030. Cellar Se-lection. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $90

94 Cayuse 2011 Camaspelo Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). Camaspelo is mostly

Cabernet Sauvignon, blended with 20% Merlot. The fruit shines through brightly in this cooler vin-tage, black cherry and plum with a saline mineral-ity. The wine saw 40% new oak, perhaps for the last time, as Christophe Baron believes “the barrel is dead” and is moving to all-neutral, large format foudres, puncheons and concrete. Soft, supple and sensuous, this is a delicious wine drinking quite nicely already. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $75

93 Cayuse 2011 The Lovers (Walla Walla Valley). Just the second vintage for this Cab/Syrah

blend, it sets its umami-soaked fruit in a crusty, toasty framework. Adding a splash (here 10%) of Syrah was once known in Bordeaux as to “Hermit-ager” the wine, bringing color and spice into the mix. This relatively soft Cabernet shows highlights of orange peel, apricot, pepper and cured meat. —P.G. abv: 13.4% Price: $90

92 Beresan 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). Sourced from estate vine-

yards, this is aged in a mix of new and neutral French oak. Baking spices, gingerbread, cassis, earth, umami, soy and balsamic elements combine in a complex, distinctive and powerful wine with another decade of development ahead. Decant if drinking soon, or cellar until 2025. Cellar Selec-tion. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $29

RED BLENDS

94 Cayuse 2011 En Cerise Vineyard Flying Pig (Walla Walla Valley). The blend on this

Claret-style red is a bit different this year—half Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. As with the other 2011 Cayuse reds, this has a noticeable shift to floral, delicate aromas, with the savory/funk present but somewhat muted. The minerality under the ripe raspberry fruit gives it a crunchy feel in the mouth, lightly dusted with fresh herbs. The persistent finish seems to have a steel frame supporting it. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $90

91 Beresan 2009 Stone River (Walla Walla Val-ley). This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syr-

ah, Merlot and Cabernet Franc ties together fruit from the estate vineyards, noted for their cobble-stones. Given extra bottle age to soften up the tan-nins a bit, it remains a somewhat herbal, earthy wine with the seabreeze salinity of fruit sourced from the sub-region known as the Rocks. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $29

89 Beresan 2010 The Buzz Yellow Jacket Vine-yard Red (Walla Walla Valley). Syrah and

Cabernet Sauvignon are the principal components, with smaller amounts of Cab Franc and Merlot, all from one of the estate vineyards located in the Rocks (Walla Walla’s soon-to-be newest sub-AVA). Strongly tannic, its core of cassis fruit is anchored in potent flavors of iron, earth and licorice. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $19

85 Iris Vineyards 2012 Red ONE (Oregon). Ba-sically this is Syrah, with 20% Pinot Noir,

Chardonnay and Muscat. This wine is peppery, stemmy and brambly, with a diffuse, quick fade. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $18

OTHER RED WINES

94 Cayuse 2011 Impulsivo En Chamberlin Vine-yard Tempranillo (Walla Walla Valley). Beefy

and broad, this offers up the aromas of a rich stew, with sweet tomato, peppery herb and game. Supple and soft, the flavors blend seamlessly, with the ac-cent of savory notes rather than specific fruits. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $90

91 Beresan 2009 Malbec (Walla Walla Valley). As with all Beresan reds, this tilts sharply

in the direction of dark fruits, earthy tannins, and streaks of iron and herb. The plum and berry flavors are framed in sappy acids, and the purity of the sin-gle-varietal wine is impressive. It’s a fine alternative to Cabernet with that thick steak. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $29

90 Beresan 2008 Cabernet Franc (Walla Walla Valley). Sourced from the estate Waliser

vineyard, this pure varietal wine, recently released at six years of age, remains muscular, chewy and densely tannic. It’s a powerful wine with dark fla-vors of herbs, earth, chocolate and espresso in front of black fruit. An hour of decanting is a good idea. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $29

89 Beresan 2012 Carmenère (Walla Walla Val-ley). Beresan made no Carmenère in 2011,

and this new vintage is the first to be sourced from the recently-planted Summit View vineyard. It’s quite pretty, with forward fruit flavors of strawber-ry and cherry. Aging for 21 months in 20% new oak gives it a toasty frame and puts some grip in the tan-nins. Drink over the next few years, while it retains its youthful charms. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $29

89 Valley View 2011 Anna Marie Tempranillo (Rogue Valley). An appealing wine with

notes of orange peel, citrus and red fruit. It’s me-dium-bodied with lively citrus flavors that display a soft feel. —S.S. abv: 13.6% Price: $18

88 Silvan Ridge 2012 Tempranillo (Rogue Val-ley). A lightly aromatic wine with notes of

vanilla, butterscotch and red fruit. The flavors are lighter in style, displaying a fine sense of elegance. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

87 Silvan Ridge 2012 Cabernet Franc (Rogue Val-ley). This 100% varietal is lightly aromatic

with notes of herbs, cherry and barrel spices. The palate is medium-bodied with cinnamon-stick fla-vors, coffee tones and tart acidity. —S.S. abv: 14.3% Price: $28

85 Silvan Ridge 2012 Malbec (Rogue Valley). Barrel notes of toast and char are at the fore

WINEMAG.COM | 25

on this wine, followed by green tea and medicine cabinet. The fruit flavors are lighter in style with firm tannins. —S.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $24

SWEET WINES

90 Coeur de Terre 2013 Late Harvest Batch No. 03 Riesling (McMinnville). Sourced from

vines planted in the early 1970s, this dense dessert wine is so concentrated that it’s difficult to pick out individual flavors. Meyer lemons, peaches, apricots, pears, papaya, pineapple and more, all on the can-died side, are in the mix, supported with generous acidity. That tension between acid and sugar is the key here. —P.G. abv: 10.2% Price: $30/375 ml

91 Apolloni 2012 Dolce Vino Viognier (Oregon). For full review see page 8. Editors’ Choice.

abv: 12.3% Price: $22/375 ml

CALIFORNIAWHITE WINES

CHARDONNAY

95 Talley 2012 Oliver’s Proprietor Grown Char-donnay (Edna Valley). Though very pale in

the glass, this wine holds no shortage of interest. Honey and roasted marcona almonds consume the nose, and the palate blends bright citrus, lemon curd and cinnamon, all propped up by a perfect, ju-dicious use of oak. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $36

94 Babcock 2012 Top Cream Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). This appropriately named wine

hits the nose with appealing aromas of vanilla but-tercream and honeyed cashews, evened out with a limeade spritz. The palate is luscious at first, then moves into an exotic spice rack laden with season-ing salts, chopped oregano and green garlic stalks. A truly delicious, thoroughly intriguing wine. —M.K. abv: 14.7% Price: $45

94 Lafond 2012 Stainless Steele Estate Char-donnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Though it didn’t see

any oak, this wine—a sister brand of the pioneering Santa Barbara Winery—presents rich and complex aromas of saffron, seared lemon rinds, rosemary and roasted chicken. It’s elegant and supple on the pal-ate, with just enough citrus juice, salt and Italian spices. —M.K. abv: 14.6% Price: $32

94 Sandhi 2012 Bentrock Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Rajat Parr’s single-vineyard expres-

sion may be the priciest white wine in the region, but it does impress, with aromas of lemon curd, limestone and macadamia-nut mousse. There’s just the right combination of oak, fruit and acid on the

palate, with flavors of sea salt, yellow flowers and a pinch of cinnamon. —M.K. abv: 13.1% Price: $90

93 Alma Rosa 2013 Chardonnay (Santa Barbara County). Ripe aromas of passionfruit, kiwi

and nectarine rise alongside greener elements of celery stalk, wet thyme and Granny Smith apple on this promising early look at the vintage. The tongue tingles throughout the sip, with flavors of crisp ap-ple, yellow melon and crushed chalk. Buttercream appears on the finish. —M.K. abv: 13% Price: $19

93 Au Contraire 2013 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 4.

abv: 13.8% Price: $20

93 Boekenoogen 2012 Estate Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). This family-run

vineyard and winery continues to excite, deliver-ing delicious, broadly appealing aromas of caramel-ized yellow pears with a cinnamon-butter glaze, honey-laced pineapple and lemon soda. The creamy mouthfeel carries flavors of yellow cake, lemon cus-tard and warm peach, yet candied grapefruit peel carves a sharp line down the middle. —M.K. abv: 14.4% Price: $36

93 De Loach 2012 Hawk Hill Vineyard Char-donnay (Green Valley). Expertly balanced

between crisp acidity and concentrated, creamy textures, this is fresh in orange blossom and just-picked Gravenstein apple, a wisp of orange peel and other citrus bringing the wine to life. This Chardon-nay has enough stuffing to age but is immensely en-joyable now. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

93 De Loach 2012 Ritchie Vineyard Middle Reach Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Dark

golden, this resplendent Chardonnay offers all one would expect from the Russian River Valley’s Middle Reach, a relatively warmer pocket of a still-plenty-cool region. Creamy and yet retaining plenty of acidity, it offers brightness and depth simultane-ously, making for a memorable wine. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

93 Gary Farrell 2012 Rochioli Vineyard Old River Block Single Oak Puncheon Chardonnay

(Russian River Valley). For full review see page 5. abv: 13.4% Price: $60

92 Babcock 2013 The Limit Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Coming from the Radian Vine-

yard atop the Sta. Rita Hills, the appellation’s vet-eran Bryan Babcock delivers aromas of pineapple cake, fresh apricot and lemon butter. The wine is well oaked, so expect vanilla and baking spice, but there’s a lemony acidity as well, creating a well-bal-anced wine. —M.K. abv: 15% Price: $45

92 Dunning Vineyards 2013 Westside Estate Wines Chardonnay (Paso Robles). For full

review see page 6. abv: 13.7% Price: $26

92 Lucienne 2012 Lone Oak Vineyard Chardon-nay (Santa Lucia Highlands). Baked vanilla

cake, marcona almonds and pressed guava notes make for a balanced though certainly oaken nose from the appellation’s pioneering property. The fla-vors are round and peachy, with a nice arc of smoke and butter that lead to bitter mustard and acidic zing on the finish. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $40

92 Ram’s Gate 2012 Chardonnay (Carneros). For full review see page 7.

abv: 14.1% Price: $36

92 Sandhi 2012 Rita’s Crown Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Whiffs of just-ripe pineapple and

mellowed buttercream emerge from this pale-col-ored yet vibrant take on the grape, grown on vines high above the Santa Ynez River valley. Tension and verve powers the palate, with lemon rinds, Greek yogurt, papaya spritzer and some slight tannins. —M.K. abv: 12.6% Price: $55

92 Sandhi 2012 Sanford & Benedict Vineyard Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Rajat Parr’s

take on this historic vineyard walks a tasty aromat-ic line between squeezed citrus, whipped vanilla cream and brisk stone fruits. On the palate, salinity reigns atop grilled lemon and honeydew, delivering just flecks of vanilla. —M.K. abv: 12.9% Price: $55

92 Talley 2012 Rincon Vineyard Chardonnay (Ar-royo Grande Valley). There’s diamond-like

precision on the nose, with white peach, salinity and croissant aromas. The flavors are very even and still unraveling, with tight lemon, apple and salt on the front and pineapple emerging on the finish. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $44

91 Cebada 2012 Estate Chardonnay (Santa Ynez Valley). Charred oak characterizes the nose

of this wine from an estate just 12 miles from the Pacific Ocean, but chopped dill takes the place of overpowering butter aromas. The herbs show up on the palate, hovering on pine needles, sandalwood and oak toothpicks, with lime pith keeping it fresh. —M.K. abv: 13.7% Price: $39

91 De Loach 2012 Heintz Vineyard Chardonnay (Green Valley). Citrus and apple tart mark

this wine that evolves to offer barrel-rich caramel on the nose. Dark golden in color, the wine is con-centrated and alive, a taste of wild Tahitian vanilla accenting it from midpalate through to the finish. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

BUYINGGUIDE


91 Fritz 2012 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Crème brûlée informs the creamy backbone

of an otherwise high-toned Chardonnay, the acidity brisk on the palate without veering over the edge. Layers of apple and pear give additional lift in be-tween a yeasty texture. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $25

91 Joseph Phelps 2012 Pastorale Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). With a rich,

caramel-teased nose, this is a full-bodied and vo-luptuous Chardonnay that evolves in the glass to display much greater sophistication and concentra-tion. It finishes light and lemony, rounded out by juicy stone fruit. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $75

91 Perry Creek 2012 Altitude 2401 Peek Vineyard Chardonnay (El Dorado). A creamy texture

and apple pie flavors make this so rich it’s almost a dessert. It is not actually sweet but has a full body and lush viscosity, presumably from barrel fermen-tation. It shows the shaping influence that barrels can have on heft and mouthfeel without adding heavy oak flavors per se. Delicious! Editors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $20

91 Riverbench 2013 Estate Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). The nose is still emerging on

this bottling by the historic estate, but nectarine, white and yellow flowers and a touch of cantaloupe are starting to peek out. The flavors dance between acidity and ripeness, with green apple flesh, lemon-lime peels and brisk minerality that build into a juicy finish. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $26

90 Alta 2012 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). A deep gold color combines with ripe fruit aromas

and assertive, seductive oak flavors like vanilla and nutmeg in this full-bodied, lush-textured, unapolo-getic California Chardonnay. A layer of the tasty oak flavors stays strong on the finish. —J.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $26

90 B.R. Cohn 2011 Sangiacomo Vineyard Char-donnay (Carneros). A barrel-fermented

Chardonnay with creamy texture, this opens with bright, prominent Meyer lemon notes before delv-ing into softer flavors of pear and vanilla on the midpalate. The acidity holds through to the finish, accented by a touch of honey. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $35

90 Carpe Diem 2013 Chardonnay (Anderson Valley). Unusually dry and crisp, this gives

up tangy green apple, kiwi and lemon flavors backed by electric acidity, rather light body and a touch of enervating astringency that’s unusual in a white wine. Fresh oysters, please. —J.G. abv: 12.96% Price: $26

90 De Loach 2012 Estate Vineyard Olivet Bench Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Dark

golden in hue, this is richly pungent in Gravenstein apple before delving into brisk clove-tinged acid-ity on the palate. Softly textured and refined, the wine offers a touch of wild vanilla and honey on the mouthwatering finish. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $50

90 De Loach 2012 OFS Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Dark golden-yellow in color,

this is a barrel-rich and creamy Chardonnay, the flavors a mélange of ripe apple, pear and hazelnut. Beautiful minerality on the midpalate through the finish keep it balanced and alive. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

90 Dry Creek Vineyard 2012 DCV Estate Block 10 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). For full


90 Duckhorn 2012 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). For full review see page 11.

abv: 14.1% Price: $35

90 Gary Farrell 2012 Bacigalupi Vineyard Char-donnay (Russian River Valley). For full re-

view see page 11. abv: 14% Price: $45

90 Kalaris 2012 Lynne’s Cuvee Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Waxy lemon and orange peel

float to the fore of this medium-bodied white that’s overall bright and vibrant in acidity. An exotic twist of lemongrass gives complexity and a taste of spice, especially on the finish. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $52

90 Martin Ray 2013 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Golden color and tight, bright acid-

ity characterize this wine that tingles in balanced flavors of pear and lemon. It also offers a touch of orange blossom on the nose and caramel on the fin-ish. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

90 Noble Vines 2013 446 San Bernabe Char-donnay (Monterey County). For full review

see page 14. Best Buy. abv: 14.5% Price: $13

90 Pali 2012 Durell Vineyard Chardonnay (So-noma Coast). Lush in toffee and rounded

layers of rich oak and crème brûlée, this sultry Chardonnay delivers a lot of heft. The wine is craft-ed from a stellar vineyard and given just over a year in 50% new French oak. The toasty notes are bal-anced by a taste of pear tart in custard. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

90 Sextant 2013 Chardonnay (Central Coast). A very smooth-smelling wine, this pres-

ents pear and lychee aromas up front against a high note background of lemon syrup and lime candies. A vibrant citrus peel acidity powers the palate, but

manages to be creamy too, with flavors of cooked apples and wonton skins. —M.K. abv: 14% Price: $16

90 Shannon Ridge 2013 High Elevation Char-donnay (Lake County). It’s a grand, full-

flavored wine that pulls together ripe, focused pear and honey flavors. Buttery, spicy oak nuances beef up the palate impression and run through the fin-ish. For all its body and oaky spice, it doesn’t get heavy. —J.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $23

90 Wildhurst 2012 Reserve Chardonnay (Lake County). Abundant flavors and fresh-tast-

ing acidity come together in this full-bodied wine to form a complete, complex package. Yes, there is a vivid streak of vanilla and nutmeg from aging in all American oak barrels but the ripe apple flavors and underlying crispness keep those from overwhelm-ing. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $18

90 Wrath 2012 3 Clone Chardonnay (Mon-terey). An inviting nose of vanilla bean

crème brûlée introduces this clonal study from winemaker Michael Thomas. The full-bodied palate is reminiscent of a citrusy cream pie, with caramel-ized apples and other oak-related flavors lingering in the background. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

90 Wrath 2012 Fermata Chardonnay (Mon-terey). Michael Thomas’ annual look at

halted maloalactic fermentation presents a fresh nose of apple, pear and white flowers. The palate walks a line between the sourness of yellow grape-fruit with the warmth of chamomile tea, showing crushed rock minerality as well. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

89 Greystone 2013 Chardonnay (California). This very versatile Chardonnay finds a nice

balance between fresh fruit flavors, crisp acidity and relatively light body. No obvious oak influence or overripe fruit flavors cloud its appetizing, appeal-ing and sunny personality. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

89 Michael David 2013 Chardonnay (Lodi). For full review see page 12.

abv: 14.5% Price: $16

89 Pine Ridge 2013 Dijon Clones Chardonnay (Carneros-Napa Valley). This is a pretty

wine in terms of floral aromatics, resplendent shocks of orange blossom and orange peel inviting in their exotic freshness. Lime and orange follow on the palate, which is bristling in acidity, the finish light and bright. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $34

89 Santa Barbara Winery 2013 Chardonnay (Santa Barbara County). The county’s first

modern winery consistently delivers value-priced

WINEMAG.COM | 27

yet solid bottlings like this. The nose is pear tart doused with a lemony sauce and flavors straddle an intriguingly tense line between chalky minerality on one side and citrus pith on the other. —M.K. abv: 13.7% Price: $17

89 Ser 2013 Coastview Vineyard Chardonnay (Monterey County). This new winery from

14-year Bonny Doon assistant Nicole Walsh pres-ents an interesting nose, with elements of butter brickle candy, caramel apple and crushed maca-damia nuts. There is some sandy minerality and golden apple skin grip on the palate, set against a subdued, guava cake-like tropicality that releases into the finish. —M.K. abv: 14% Price: $28

89 Talley 2012 Rosemary’s Vineyard Estate Bottled Chardonnay (Arroyo Grande Valley).

Roasted peach, cinnamon and crushed vanilla bean make for an intriguing nose on another solid Tal-ley bottling. It’s soft and approachable at first, but then a bit brash and youthful, but will mellow with some patience. Drink 2017 onward. Cellar Selec-tion. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $48

88 Buena Vista 2012 Jovita’s Selection Char-donnay (Sonoma Coast). This is a hearty,

medium-bodied Chardonnay with ripe caramelized apple on the front palate that delves into toasty oak. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

88 Buena Vista 2012 Natalia’s Selection Char-donnay (Green Valley). Vibrant in barrel-

influenced pear and vanilla, this has some heft to the palate, offering a smooth mouthfeel and linger-ing finish. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

88 Concannon 2012 Conservancy Chardonnay (Livermore Valley). Civilized, layered and

nuanced, this blends pear, hazelnut and cream fla-vors with a rather light touch. A sense of sweetness keeps the texture rather soft but doesn’t weigh down the wine, which is relatively light bodied. —J.G. abv: 13% Price: $16

88 Garnet 2013 Chardonnay (Monterey Coun-ty). This quality but affordable brand by

winemaker Alison Crowe delivers smoked apple, ripe lemon and wood fire on the nose. The wine is very evenly layered on the palate, with apple cus-tard as the dominant flavor, and a fairly quick finish. —M.K. abv: 13.6% Price: $16

88 Hendry 2013 Unoaked Chardonnay (Napa Valley). This 100% stainless-steel-fer-

mented Chardonnay is on the money in terms of crispness and acidity. Sour lemon and sharp wet stone mark it most, the finish quick and clean. This is a great food wine. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $30

88 Lost Canyon 2012 Ruxton Vineyard Chardon-nay (Russian River Valley). Kaffir lime and

ripe apple skin open aromatically before soft layers of sweet and sour interplay on the palate. Measured in terms of oak, the finish lingers ever so slightly with a taste of toasted caramel. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $35

88 Madonna Estate 2012 Chardonnay (Carne-ros-Napa Valley). From organically grown

grapes, this wine is barrel-fermented in French oak. On the palate, it reflects that time in barrel, con-veying a mix of spicy oak, exotic Asian pear and nutmeg. Well-integrated and light, it offers lilting minerality. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

88 Matchbook 2012 The Arsonist Chardonnay (Dunnigan Hills). For full review see page 13.

abv: 14.3% Price: $22

88 McManis 2013 Chardonnay (River Junction). For full review see page 15. Best Buy.

abv: 13.5% Price: $10

88 Oak Grove 2013 Family Reserve Chardonnay (California). For full review see page 15.

Best Buy. abv: 13.8% Price: $8

88 Perry Creek 2013 Chardonnay (California). Bracing acidity, bright apple flavors and a

slightly buttery texture and finish make this full-bodied, unoaked Chardonnay interesting and re-freshing. Some Chardonnays are too fruity and oaky, but this one hangs back a bit, and this relative austerity encourages another sip. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $15

88 Robert Mondavi 2012 Reserve Chardonnay (Carneros-Napa Valley). Juicy in tropical

mango, coconut flake and guava, this sophisticated Chardonnay is measured in texture and weight, the body lean with a touch of vanilla richness on the finish. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

87 Belle Ambiance 2012 Chardonnay (Califor-nia). For full review see page 15. Best Buy.

abv: 13.5% Price: $10

87 Cherry Pie 2013 Cherry Tart Chardonnay (Cali-fornia). This presents a balanced nose of

seared pineapple and marzipan. The palate shows off a judicious use of oak, with a clean line of acidity cutting through brushes of stone fruit and citrus. —M.K. abv: 14.3% Price: $25

87 Jon Nathaniel 2012 Lavender Hill Chardon-nay (Carneros-Napa Valley). Exotic tropical

highlights of guava and mango lead to a slick finish of vanilla and oak. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $40

87 Matchbook 2012 Musqué Clone 809 Estate Bottled Chardonnay (Dunnigan Hills). This

is not sweet but would be fine in the dessert wine aisle, because of the exotic dried-fruit aromas and thick texture. It has an unusually brassy color, then the aromas are floral, honeylike and nutty, followed by dried apricot flavors. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

87 Midnight Cellars 2012 Estate Chardonnay (Paso Robles). Grown on the Teresa Angela

block of the estate, this riper-style Chardonnay of-fers peach custard and saffron spice on the nose. Crushed nuts and browner, aged flavors emerge once sipped, with a yeast and orange rind sour ele-ment providing complexity. —M.K. abv: 14.3% Price: $29

87 MooBuzz 2013 Chardonnay (Monterey Coun-ty). Freshly skinned pink Gala apples, hon-

eysuckle and barrel smoke describe the nose on this well-priced, slickly packaged bottling. Apples, gua-va and citrus combine for a reliable, even-flavored palate, good for everyday sipping. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

87 Playtime 2013 Blonde Chardonnay (Lake County). Danish pastry aromas lead to flavor

nuances of cream, ripe apple and Anjou pear. With a smooth, soft texture and nice sense of layering, it’s fresh, not heavy, with just enough acidity to keep it lively. —J.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $13

87 Vinum 2013 Chardonnay (Monterey). Light in color, this good-deal wine presents lime

sorbet and chalk on the nose. That green citrus per-sists on the palate alongside salt, sea shell and bar-rel smoke. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

87 Wrath 2013 Ex Anima Chardonnay (Mon-terey). The lack of new oak on this wine

unleashes a torrent of ripe tropical fruit, including guava, as well as ripe pear. It’s briny on the palate yet with quite perfumed and pungent flavors, more typical of a Rhône white than a California chardon-nay. —M.K. abv: 14.3% Price: $19

86 Carmel Road 2013 Unoaked Chardonnay (Monterey). This stainless-steel-fermented

wine offers a curiously herbal aroma of lemon ver-bena, with a bit of wet slate and fresh-cut honey-dew. As expected, the flavors are steely at first, with fruit flavors of ripe pear and lemon emerging in the midpalate, winding up on a distinctly tart apple-skin finish. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

86 flipflop 2012 Chardonnay (California). Herb-al and appley aromas lead to soft apple and

melon flavors in this lively wine. With another sip, a creamy texture and richness come out that add an

BUYINGGUIDE


extra dimension of interest to this inexpensive wine that’s hardly a flop. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13% Price: $7

86 HandCraft 2013 Chardonnay (California). This ioffers ripe fruit flavors, full body,

rounded texture, and a rich frosting of vanilla and butter notes from seasoning with oak. —J.G. abv: 13% Price: $13

86 Hoopes 2012 Unoaked Hoopla Chardonnay Chardonnay (Napa Valley). A clear, ripe

pear note rings through this medium-bodied Char-donnay from the aroma to the palate to the finish. Even the texture is a bit thick like pear juice, though there is some subtlety in the light vanilla and pastry cream accents. —J.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $14

86 Le Vigne 2013 Kiara Barrel Select Chardon-nay (Paso Robles). The nose is a bit astrin-

gent, with barrel smoke and pineapple as the most appealing elements. The palate is dominated by apple, lemon custard and peach chiffon, with a bit of oak toast. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $23

86 Matchbook 2012 Old Head Chardonnay (Dunnigan Hills). Here is a solid, dry, rather

full-bodied Chardonnay with a subtle floral aro-ma. It offers savory rather than fruity flavors, rich mouthfeel and lingering finish of baking spices. Not a light pre-dinner drink but more of a match with rich sauces on pasta, poultry or pork. —J.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $15

86 Tolosa 2013 No Oak Chardonnay (Central Coast). This stainless-steel wine doesn’t

present much on the nose, just a little apple cider, chalk and metal. The acidity is powerfully bright, with citrus zest dominating the flavors, and a very quick and tight finish. —M.K. abv: 14.4% Price: $21

86 Tuck Beckstoffer 2011 Semper Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Muted and sour, this lem-

ony Chardonnay from a cool vintage offers pucker-ingly high acidity and relatively low alcohol. —V.B. abv: 12.3% Price: $45

85 Aver Family Vineyards 2012 Inspiration Gap’s Crown Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma

Coast). Crisp at first, this evolves into a ripe, juicy expression of considerable concentration and weight. Baked apple and caramel-toffee are layered throughout a broad-shouldered midpalate with a hit of spice on the finish. —V.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $45

85 Flying Horse Winery 2012 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Golden in color, this full-bodied,

oaky Chardonnay adds in 4% Sauvignon Blanc. Aged 16 months in French oak, it offers ripe fruit ripe that borders on confectionary. —V.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $35

85 Happy Camper 2013 Chardonnay (Califor-nia). For full review see page 16. Best Buy.

abv: 13.6% Price: $9

85 Lander-Jenkins 2012 Chardonnay (Califor-nia). On the lean side of the flavor spectrum,

this nonetheless has an appetizing lemon and butter character. It smells like green apples and mandarin oranges with an earthy edge, tastes like a light lem-on-custard and has texture just rich enough to stay interesting. —J.G. abv: 13% Price: $15

85 Sandhi 2012 Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). The entry-level offering for Rajat Parr’s

luxury brand, this is barely noticeable on the nose, with mere hints of melon. On the palate, it’s pleas-antly Chardonnay-like but quite naked and flat in flavor. —M.K. abv: 12.8% Price: $38

85 Schweiger 2012 Estate Bottled Chardonnay (Spring Mountain). Muted aromatically this

wine is oaky and verging on sweet, a tad out of bal-ance in terms of alcohol and power. The finish is quick. —V.B. abv: 15.2% Price: $30

84 Gen5 2012 Chardonnay (Lodi). Straightfor-ward and thirst-quenching, this is on the

light side. Flavors suggest herb and citrus, with no heavy oak influence or sense of sweetness to make it cloying. It includes 6% Sémillon and 3% Viognier. —J.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $11

84 Redmon 2012 Chardonnay (Carneros). There’s an overripeness to the fruit char-

acter of this wine. A taste of baked apple and Jolly Rancher veers into sweet territory around an other-wise straightforward bottling. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $39

SAUVIGNON BLANC

92 Fiddlehead 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). For full review

see page 6. abv: 14.1% Price: $25

91 Galerie 2013 Equitem Sauvignon Blanc (Knights Valley). Subtle in honey and grape-

fruit, this is a playful wine, vibrant in acidity and swirls of lemon zest that make it simultaneously re-freshing and intriguing. Oysters are the obvious call. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

91 Galerie 2013 Naissance Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). Wild vanilla and white peach

intermingle in this substantial wine, entirely well-composed in round layers of tropical pineapple and

juicy citrus. The oak is subtle and gives the finish a lift, accenting the vanilla. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

91 Hall 2013 T Bar T Ranch Sauvignon Blanc (Al-exander Valley). With a handful of Viognier

blended in, and nine months spent in new French oak, this wine offers deep layers of melon and peach surrounded by a wall of floral aromatics. Delicious and ripe, the wine holds enough structure to hold well for another couple of years. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $30

91 Hourglass 2012 Estate Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). This beautifully brings out

and blends the crisp citrus side of the grape variety along with a touch of riper fruit flavor that’s shaped by oak aging. It offers classic, grassy aromas, thirst-quenchingly tart flavors and very light touches of vanilla and nutmeg. —J.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $40

91 Joseph Phelps 2013 Estate Grown Sauvignon Blanc (St. Helena). Floral and exotic, the tin-

gling acidity in this wine is the standout, but it’s equally buoyed by a mouth-filling texture adorned by a sensation of fresh-squeezed lime and grape-fruit. Balanced, this lovely Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc should convince one and all of the variety’s regional merit. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

91 Starmont 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val-ley). For full review see page 9. Editors’


90 Greyscale 2011 Cuvée Blanc (Napa Valley). Time in bottle has done nice things for this

white, a blend of 85% Sauvignon Blanc (half of it fermented in oak) and 15% Sémillon. Caramel and vanilla dominate on the nose, with the palate crisp in fresh-squeezed lemon and tart apple, especially on the finish. The oak influence shows in positive ways, adding depth and creaminess to the texture. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $34

90 J. Lohr 2013 Flume Crossing Sauvignon Blanc (Arroyo Seco). This very approachable and

likable wine puts the typical dried-grass aromas atop stone fruit scents. The palate is very herb-tinged, with parsley, thyme and rosemary finding a nice symbiosis with the riper nectarine and melon flesh. Best Buy. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

90 Margerum 2013 D Sauvignon Blanc (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). Doug Margerum

presents a very steely nose on this wine, which picks up some red apple and cinnamon intrigue as well. The palate is all about finding a great tension between bitter citrus rinds and riper fruits like

WINEMAG.COM | 29

pineapple, proving both refreshing yet intellectual at the same time. —M.K. abv: 12.1% Price: $36

90 Round Pond 2013 Proprietary White (Ruth-erford). This wine combines 78% Sauvi-

gnon Blanc with 22% Viognier, an unusual mix that works well here. Gamy and creamy, it’s a fuller style of wine with balanced acidity and a lingering mouthful of sweet white peach. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

90 Spring Mountain Vineyard 2012 Estate Bot-tled Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). The

addition of 5% Sémillon proves to be the right call in this white, a structured, spritzy glass of tree-rip-ened apricot and exotic lemongrass with a pleasant heft to the palate. A twist of ripeness gives a mouth-watering, juicy finish. —V.B. abv: 13.7% Price: $40

89 Alta 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). The aroma of this sleek, dry wine made

from organic grapes is subtly herbal. Flavors suggest crisp green apple and kiwi, and it has a crisp bal-ance, smooth texture and very clean finish. It shows a sophisticated restraint that will pair well with any number of appetizers and seafood courses. —J.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $20

89 Clos du Val 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). There’s a distinct freshness to this

wine. Stainless-steel fermented and aged, it’s high in acidity with enough spirit to feel almost efferves-cent. Lightly textured tastes range from pineapple to papaya, a squeeze of Lemonheads candy on the long finish. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $24

89 Coquelicot 2012 Estate Sauvignon Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley). A quirky blend of aro-

mas arise off of this wine, from yellow melon and honeydew to toasted pound cake and a tiny bit of reductive skunkiness. It’s also interesting once sipped, with yellow cupcake, crushed Italian herbs and kiwi-driven acidity that morphs into an almost-buttery finish. —M.K. abv: 14.3% Price: $32

89 Hill Family Estate 2013 Tiara Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). Steely citrus marks the

opening of this wine, complemented by the addition of 7% Sémillon. Grapefruit, ripe apple and pear intermingle nicely before the weighty wine adds creaminess to the midpalate and finish. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $35

88 Dominican Oaks 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). Peach and lime play off each

other in this well-integrated, mineral-laden white that’s medium bodied and bright. The finish is a pleasant mix of lemongrass and Meyer lemon. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

88 Duckhorn 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val-ley). The winery has made SB since 1982,

blending in Sémillon and barrel-aging in new oak to craft a fuller style of the wine that’s well structured. In this vintage 16% Sémillon was used and barrel fermentation took place in 15% new oak. The result: a light, ethereal wine abundant in tropical aromas and flavors that’s crisp on the palate. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $29

88 Franciscan 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val-ley). Light and crisp, this delivers straight-

forward lemon, lime, grapefruit and melon around soft, simple textures, making it both juicy and invit-ing. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $17

88 J. Lohr 2013 Carol’s Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (St. Helena). Tropical and creamy, the

aromas thick in grapefruit and pineapple, this light, citrus-tinged, refreshing 100% Sauvignon Blanc is well-balanced and easy to enjoy, approachable with some depth. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $24

88 Malk 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). A punch of lemon opens up on the palate of

this medium-bodied, textured white that features an interesting combination of bright, sour fruit and subtle acidity. From the cooler region of Oak Knoll District in southern Napa Valley, it offers minerality and depth. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $29

88 Quivira 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Dry Creek Valley). Fruity and slightly effervescent,

this is a classic California Sauvignon Blanc. Bal-anced and lingering in crisp melon and tropical fruit, it provides enough creamy texture to go well with food. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

88 Rock Wren 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Ruth-erford). Inviting in jasmine aromas, this

medium-bodied, 100% Sauvignon Blanc tastes of ripe grapefruit lightly sprinkled in sugar, a nice mix of acidity and texture with a burst of sun-ripened Napa Valley fruit. The finish is long and satisfying. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $24

88 Vina Robles 2013 Estate Sauvignon Blanc (Paso Robles). For full review see page 13.

abv: 14.4% Price: $16

87 Courtney Benham 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). This ethereal, crisp white is

pretty in guava and melon, approachable, easy to enjoy and not fussy. The majority of the experience is in the beginning and midpalate. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

87 Michael Pozzan 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). An affordable wine that’ll please a

host of palates, this SB was fermented in stainless

steel before 40% of it spent two months aging in new French oak. The result is a florally aromatic wine with straightforward layers of pineapple and vanilla and juiciness on the finish. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

87 Quivira 2013 Fig Tree Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Dry Creek Valley). Managed acid-

ity provides the backbone to this white. A taste of stone fruit, namely peach and apricot, figures in most prominently. A curious herbal streak weaves itself in and out on the palate, giving the wine an earthy edge. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

86 Flint & Steel 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). Pineapple and mango play off each

other in this tart, fleshy and fuller style of the va-riety, with a finish that goes on and veers ripely sweet. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $15

86 Heritance 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val-ley). A touch of 7% Sémillon rounds out

this Sauvignon Blanc, the fruit from both Ruther-ford and Yountville in the heart of the Napa Valley. Subtle on the nose, it offers elegant layers of tart squeezed lemon and a bite of melon. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

86 Jamieson Ranch 2013 Silver Spur Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). A whiff of grass opens

on the nose in this wine. Stainless-steel fermented, it’s crisp, dry and clean, with flavors of papaya and apricot. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $28

86 Kobler 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Dry Creek Val-ley). A full-figured white dancing in pear

and apple Jolly Rancher, it features a strong taste of oak on the palate followed by accents of lemon zest. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $26

86 Whitehall Lane 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). This full-bodied, creamy blend of

Sauvignon Blanc and 9% Sémillon is rich in tropi-cal aromas and flavors, layered and slightly honeyed in a finish of ripe fruit. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $18

86 Worthy 2011 Five Clones Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). Fragrant in floral jasmine

and tropical aromas, this light, lean Sauvignon Blanc stays fresh in the glass. —V.B. abv: 12.7% Price: $19

85 Mason Cellars 2013 Yount Mill Vineyard Sau-vignon Blanc (Napa Valley). Refreshing hon-

eydew and lime open the nose in this crisp white, followed by a strong floral sense akin to Gewürztra-miner. Flavors of fig finish things off. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $16

BUYINGGUIDE


85 Schmitz 24 Brix 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Sier-ra Foothills). Not at all a typical Sauvignon

Blanc, this smells like apricot and honeysuckle and tastes like marmalade. It is dry, yet tastes like a late-harvest dessert wine. Expect a little taste adventure here. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

VIOGNIER

91 Calera 2013 Viognier (Central Coast). The nose on Josh Jensen’s latest vintage is ex-

pertly restrained, suggesting honey- and lemon-laced chamomile tea. The flavors are even and nice-ly arced, with tart lime moving into pear flesh and finishing with butter-scorched lemon and custard. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $17

91 Casey Flat Ranch 2013 Estate Viognier (Capay Valley). Subtle floral aromas lead to lean fruit

and mineral flavors in this sophisticated, somewhat reserved wine. It has just enough restraint in flavor and crispness in balance to encourage another sip, and another. And those sips reveal more layers of tasty herb, Gruyère and white pepper. —J.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $20

91 Peachy Canyon 2013 Concrete Blanc Viognier (Paso Robles). Tropical aromas of mango,

banana and honeysuckle lead the nose on what first seems like a fruity wine. But then the palate is much more restrained, clean and mineral-driven, with steely flavors surrounding the remnant ripe plantain-like tropicality. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $25

91 The White Knight 2013 Viognier (Clarksburg). For full review see page 13. Best Buy.

abv: 13.9% Price: $12

90 Arrowood 2012 Saralee’s Vineyard Viognier (Russian River Valley). This is a deep and

concentrated white wine, ripely adorned in honey and apricot with a streak of honeysuckle dancing on the nose throughout. Creamy and round, it is buoyed by a fresh sprinkling of orange blossom and rind. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

90 LXV 2012 Summer Satine Viognier (Paso Robles). This winery is aimed at the sexy

side of wine, and succeeds in this bottling, with restrained aromas of nectarine, gunmetal, flint and strawberry guava. Tart yellow-green flavors of ap-ple, pear and citrus give an edge to the persistent tropicality, which wipes up with a light vanilla fin-ish. Perfect for fish dishes. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

89 McManis 2013 Viognier (River Junction). For full review see page 14. Best Buy.

abv: 13.5% Price: $11

88 Black Ridge 2012 Estate Grown Viognier (Santa Cruz Mountains). Sea-salt caramel

candies, white flowers, peach sorbet and squeezed lime swirl into a very promising nose on this wine. It’s lighter bodied and bouncy on the palate once sipped, with nice minerality, but the tropical lem-onade fruit may be a tad too strong for some. —M.K. abv: 14.4% Price: $32

88 Bonterra 2013 Made With Organic Grapes Viognier (Mendocino County). For full re-

view see page 12. abv: 14.5% Price: $14

88 Brecon Estate 2013 Viognier (Paso Robles). Touches of salt and stone combine with a

subdued peach character on the nose of this wine from a new estate in Paso Robles. The palate plays toward the acid side of the varietal’s equation, with lemon candy and bitterness standing up to the white peach flesh. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

88 Galante 2013 Estate Bottled Viognier (Carm-el Valley). Very intriguing notes of candied

ginger, ash tree pulp and salted apricot prove rather mesmerizing on this wine. The flavors span apple, lime and ginger-honey tea, with a slightly vanilla finish. —M.K. abv: 14.3% Price: $32

88 Pomar Junction 2013 Estate Viognier (Paso Robles). This wine from the recently ap-

proved El Pomar District is tropically perfumed with lychee candy and a hint of passionfruit. Boun-cy acidity on the front of the palate leads into red apple fruit and citrus skin bitterness, and wipes up with a zing on the palate. —M.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $25

87 Black Ridge 2011 Estate Grown Viognier (San-ta Cruz Mountains). There’s Riesling-like

petrol to the nose of this wine, as well as aromas familiar to sparkling wines like sour yeast, nectarine and pear. It’s intriguing once sipped, tending toward rubber and gas, with a touch of sour lemon. —M.K. abv: 14.4% Price: $32

87 Callaway 2012 Special Selection Viognier (Temecula Valley). The aromas are a bit

overpowering, with distinct ruby red grapefruit, ly-chee and cherimoya. The perfumed flavors are far more reserved, with guava flesh and grapefruit pith on the end. —M.K. abv: 14.8% Price: $22

87 Robert Hall 2013 Viognier (Paso Robles). A pungent perfume of peach arises from this

wine, but a flinty character keeps it grounded. The energetic peach-lemonade palate straddles the ten-sion between acidity and rather present tannins for a white wine. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

86 Luke Donald 2012 Sanford & Benedict Single Vineyard Viognier (Sta. Rita Hills). Made

by the pro golfer, the wine comes from the small amount of Viognier in this historic vineyard. The nose promises big, with seared ginger, stone fruit and barrel-smoke aromas. But the palate is less exciting, albeit with pleasant grilled nectarine and mineral elements. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $36

86 Workman Ayer 2013 Ipso Facto Viognier (Central Coast). A rich and perfumed hon-

eysuckle character picks up bubblegum on the sweet-leaning nose. It slips toward flatness on the palate, with smoked peach and more bubblegum saying short hellos. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $21

85 Dubost 2013 Estate Viognier (Paso Robles). The nose is imprecise, jumping from yellow

flowers to apple juice, and requiring quite an effort to get that much. Pear skin flavors emerge on the palate, which has a decent tartness but is washed out a bit by the high alcohol. Still a nice table wine, though. —M.K. abv: 16% Price: $40

85 Oak Grove 2013 Family Reserve Viognier (California). For full review see page 17. Best

Buy. abv: 13.8% Price: $8

GRENACHE BLANC

89 Morro View Winery 2013 Speizer Family Vine-yard Grenache Blanc (Edna Valley). Coming

from the former owner of Domaine Alfred (now Chamisal Vineyards) this lip-smacking wine starts with a yeasty, Granny Smith apple nose. The flavors are tightly acidic yet plush at the same time: bitter apple skins mixing up with ripe pluots. —M.K. abv: 15% Price: $24

88 Peachy Canyon 2013 Grenache Blanc (Paso Robles). This grape can be styled as super

acidic or tropically lush, and this version leans to the latter. The nose is consumed with white peach and light guava, but the tropical elements come alive on the palate, with passionfruit and tangerine skin laying atop a medium-low acidity. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

88 Pomar Junction 2013 Estate Grenache Blanc (Paso Robles). Imagine sniffing barely ripe

peach and guava through their skins to understand the brisk and subtle nose of this wine. The flavors are also subtle, but quite refreshing, with squeezed citrus and poached apple shining brightest. —M.K. abv: 13.7% Price: $25

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ROUSSANNE

89 Austin Hope 2012 Hope Family Vineyard Roussanne (Paso Robles). Favoring a nearly

amber, oxidized style of the grape, this presents a very nutty nose with flashes of dried apricot. The almost oily mouthfeel carries flavors of curry and marzipan, making for a conversation starter and memorable take on a variety that’s still finding its New World footing. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $23

88 Stolpman 2012 Estate Roussanne (Ballard Canyon). Yellow spices like saffron sit be-

hind the forward notes of stone fruit and barrel smoke on this wine from Santa Barbara’s newest appellation. Once sipped, it balances well between buttery apple pie and tarter nectarine, with a prom-inent vanilla finish. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

87 Tablas Creek 2012 Estate Grown & Bottled Roussanne (Paso Robles). Tropical notes

rule the nose, with guava most prominent, yet white flowers present as well. There is lemon rind-driven acidity on the apple juice-laden palate, making for a pleasant wine for drinking with light fare. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $35

PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO

92 Hendry 2013 Hendry Vineyard Pinot Gris (Napa Valley). For full review see page 6.


90 Buena Vista 2013 The Count’s Selection Pinot Gris (Sonoma Valley). White pepper

and matchstick come to the fore aromatically in this crisp white that’s fuller bodied on the palate than one would expect given the aromatics. Apple and pear give a complex, autumnal fruit presence that leads up to a ripe, creamy finish. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

88 Claiborne & Churchill 2013 Pinot Gris (Cen-tral Coast). The longtime Alsatian-focused

producer —circa 1983—delivers a wine with aromas of lemon peel, pear juice, lime zest and yellow cake. The palate shows orange blossom sorbet and a lem-on zest that lingers from sip to finish. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

88 Courtney Benham 2013 Pinot Gris (Russian River Valley). This well-made, attractively

priced wine delivers on the light floral characteris-tics of the variety. A liveliness to the palate makes it seem slightly spritzy, in a good way. Melon, mango and citrus dominate. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $15

88 Villa San Juliette 2013 Reserve Pinot Gris (Paso Robles). Ever so slightly pink in color,

this intriguing wine begins with aromas of pear cider and sourdough yeast, pulling the nose in for more. It’s all nectarine and baking soda once sipped, making for a playful tension between fruit and min-erality. —M.K. abv: 14.4% Price: $24

87 Madonna Estate 2013 Estate Bottled Pinot Gris (Carneros-Napa Valley). Made from

organically grown grapes, this is a stainless-steel fermented and aged white. High in acidity, it offers a creaminess to the palate. Flavors of fennel and melon end briefly and satisfyingly. —V.B. abv: 13.2% Price: $28

86 Benessere 2013 Pinot Grigio (Napa Valley). Full and creamy, this is sizable on the palate

with swathes of stone fruit and peaches followed by fig. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $22

84 Bota Box 2013 Pinot Grigio (California). It’s very clean and fresh in aroma, cool and clear

in flavor and soft in texture. Vaguely pearlike aro-mas lead to more vivid and interesting canteloupe flavors on the finish. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13% Price: $23/3 L

84 Cline 2013 Estate Grown Pinot Gris (Sonoma Coast). Grassy aromatically, this is a crisp,

refreshing white that’s slightly undefined in pear and melon. Light bodied and easy to quaff. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $14

84 Muscardini 2012 Sole del Mattino Vineyard Pinot Grigio (Sonoma Valley). Salty on the

nose, this tropically rich and ripe wine has woody, herbal undertones. —V.B. abv: 13.2% Price: $26

84 Redwood Ridge Estate 2013 Estate Pinot Grigio (Santa Cruz Mountains). Very yeasty

aromas of baking croissant and cooking omelette—more sparkling wine-like than still—emerge on this wine. The flavors suggest a strong pear cider, with more eggs, yeast and baked croutons. —M.K. abv: 13% Price: $25

RIESLING

91 Claiborne & Churchill 2013 Riesling (Central Coast). This regional blend conveys elegant

aromas of tangerine blossom, seared lime, green apples and passionfruit sorbet. The tropicality rules the palate, with guava and more passionfruit, but the ripe fruit is used judiciously, with tension thanks to minerality and bitter citrus pith. —M.K. abv: 13.2% Price: $20

90 Claiborne & Churchill 2012 Estate Riesling (Edna Valley). More than 30 years of mak-

ing dry Alsatian wines in the Edna Valley are on dis-play in this classic bottling. The varietal’s familiar gasoline nose picks up lightness from fresh apple, crisp nectarine and a macadamia-marzipan touch.

The palate is based on very balanced acidity, with flavors of buttered pear and lemon strudel. —M.K. abv: 13.2% Price: $28

90 Lafond 2012 SRH Riesling (Sta. Rita Hills). Extremely sharp scents of petrol and gaso-

line exhaust are cut with bright citrus on this very cool climate Riesling, which was once planted wide-ly in the Sta. Rita Hills. Lemongrass, lime zest and toasted coconut flake combine for an interesting palate, and this wine should age quite well. Cellar Selection. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

89 Standing Sun 2012 Riesling (Santa Barbara County). A bit more oxidized style of Ries-

ling from Buellton-based winemaker John Wright, this delivers aromas of baking bread, roasted al-monds and toast with marmalade. The rich yet lively wine relies more on tannins than tart acid-ity, with flavors of honey-laced brioche and seared marshmallow. —M.K. abv: 13.7% Price: $24

ALBARIÑO

90 Brecon Estate 2013 Albariño (Central Coast). For full review see page 10.

abv: 13.5% Price: $26

90 Hendry 2013 Hendry Vineyard Albariño (Napa Valley). For full review see page 11.

abv: 13.7% Price: $20

90 Marimar Estate 2013 Don Miguel Vineyard Estate Grown & Bottled Albariño (Russian

River Valley). For full review see page 11.abv: 14% Price: $32

88 Derby 2012 Derby Vineyard Albariño (Paso Robles). California’s take on this grape

can be more showy than is done in its Spanish homeland, and this is a good example. A strongly perfumed nose of white flowers, yellow rose and pineapple is quite intriguing. The palate is more standard fare: pear, apple, green banana and citrus pith, trending toward bitterness and tartness more than ripe fruit. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

WHITE BLENDS

92 Tablas Creek 2012 Esprit Blanc de Tablas Es-tate Grown & Bottled Roussanne-Grenache

Blanc-Picpoul Blanc (Paso Robles). For full review see page 8. abv: 13.5% Price: $45

91 Derby 2011 Fifteen 10 White (Paso Robles). Honey, crisp lemon and poached apple make

for an excellent nose on this blend of 31% Mar-sanne, 26% Roussanne, 22% Grenache Blanc, 11% Viognier and 10% Picpoul. The flavors are equally impressive, with nectarine, white flowers and yel-

BUYINGGUIDE


low pear making for an easy-to-quaff white wine. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

91 Galante 2013 Wagon Wheel White (Carmel Valley). This blend of Sauvignon Blanc and

Viognier is quite pale in color, with aromas of ripe pear and squeezed lemon. It’s bright and lively on the palate, with cold crushed apples and pear blos-soms bringing lots of life to the wine. —M.K. abv: 13.7% Price: $25

91 Sanguis 2011 Out of Line White (Santa Bar-bara County). Pineapple and lemon cream

pie converge on this viscous, deep-yellow blend of Chardonnay and Roussanne, made by urban wine-maker Matthias Pippig on Santa Barbara’s Eastside. There is an emergent acidity on the palate, powered by nectarine, but it’s nicely dense and rich. —M.K. abv: 14.3% Price: $50

89 Adelaida 2013 Finder Estate White (Paso Robles). The blend of 40% Grenache Blanc,

28% Viognier, 20% Picpoul Blanc, and 12% Rous-sanne hits the nose with minerality and citrus, wound tightly around tangerine peel. The flavors are almost all lime zest and chalk, making for a brisk pre-dinner drink or perfect shellfish partner. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $25

89 Jada Vineyard & Winery 2013 XCV (Paso Ro-bles). Quite densely perfumed, this blend

of 52% Roussanne, 31% Grenache Blanc and 17% Viognier offers aromas of tuberose, sweet melon, ripe peach and banana candy. The flavors are also quite ripe, with pear, a little more banana and a touch of smoke, all laced together with lingering acidity. —M.K. abv: 14.8% Price: $35

89 Le Vigne 2013 Bianco (Paso Robles). The nose on this secret blend is clean and tight,

not showy at all, with just a touch of papaya and honey. It expands greatly on the palate with banana and melon, but wipes up quick with a fresh burst of acidity. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $21

89 Standing Sun 2012 Le Blanc (Santa Barbara County). There’s a slightly oxidized sense to

this blend of 40% Grenache Blanc, 30% Viognier and 30% Roussanne, with aromas of dried peach, apricot, sourdough bread and lightly toasted mar-cona almonds. The flavors are very much powered by yellow flowers, with saffron and scorched lemon elements. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $20

89 Tablas Creek 2013 Patelin de Tablas Blanc (Paso Robles). Notes of sharp apple, citrus

zest and just-cut nectarine introduce this blend of 54% Grenache Blanc, 25% Viognier, 13% Rous-sanne, and 8% Marsanne. Racy acidity dominates

the palate, with pear flavors most noticeable and a round citrus element to the midpalate. —M.K. abv: 13.2% Price: $20

88 ONX 2013 Field Day (Paso Robles). This ad-venturous blend of 50% Sauvignon Blanc,

28% Viognier and 22% Grenache Blanc excites the nose with cut grass and lime zest. But it’s most en-thralling once sipped, boasting a lively acidity that wakes up the palate with green but not too tart apple flavors. —M.K. abv: 14% Price: $28

88 Terra d’Oro 2013 Chenin Blanc-Viognier (Clarksburg). A richness in texture and and

a lingering finish make this subtly flavored wine stand out. Fresh apple notes combine with floral tones in the aroma, and continue through the fin-ish. The overall impression is of smoothness and full body. —J.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $16

87 Pomar Junction 2013 Cotes de Pomar Blanc (Paso Robles). There is boisterous tropicali-

ty on the nose of this blend of 40% Rousanne, 40% Grenache Blanc and 20% Viognier, full of passion-fruit, pineapple and peach. It’s juicy and fleshy once sipped, echoing the tropical flavors, but with a wet slate minerality providing backbone. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $34

87 Tablas Creek 2013 Cotes de Tablas Blanc Es-tate Grown & Bottled (Paso Robles). This is

a highly aromatic wine, pungent with guava jelly and ripe tropical scents, and not subtle in the least. The blend of 39% Viognier, 29% Grenache Blanc, 20% Marsanne and 12% Roussanne provides a pal-ate dominated by fragrant tuberose flowers, which translate to strong white flower flavors throughout. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $27

86 Spann Vineyards 2012 Yin-Yang Chardon-nay-Viognier (Sonoma County). An equal

partnership between Chardonnay and Viognier, this wine is brisk and slightly austere, the nose floral in geranium and the fruit profile of apple, pear and pineapple light and subtle. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $20

84 Hey Mambo 2013 White (California). Strong grassy aromas and flavors come with an

almost sweet feel in the mouth in this medium-bodied, rather soft-texured white wine. It’s blended from Viognier, Chardonnay and French Colombard, and it’s hard to say which one it resembles most. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

81 Naggiar 2011 La Contessa Sylvana (Sierra Foothills). This blend looks slightly more

brassy than golden, smells like dried apples and tastes rather lean and almost chalky. It comes off as nervy and fully mature. —J.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $32

OTHER WHITES

92 Claiborne & Churchill 2013 Gewürztraminer (Central Coast). From a winery focused on

Alsatian wines since starting in 1983, this tremen-dous Gewürztraminer is redolent with grilled lemon peels, lilac and a chalky minerality. On the elegant and tasty palate, there are white rocks, roasted nectarines, yellow apples and noticeable salinity. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

91 Calera 2013 Aligoté (Mt. Harlan). Josh Jensen was the first to plant this alternative Bur-

gundian white varietal in America, and this bottling offers notes of honeyed apricot juice, ripe nectar-ines and melons and toasted almonds. It’s waxy and fleshy on the palate, with grilled lemon warmth, squeezed lime acidity and a nutty finish. —M.K. abv: 13.6% Price: $24

89 Joullian 2013 Estate Sémillon (Carmel Val-ley). Aromas of honey and beeswax come

from this wine made from 26-year-old vines of this still-rare Bordeaux grape in California. The flavors are a tad flatter, with almond, charred lemon and pear flesh, though the lifting quality of lemongrass makes this a suitable selection for a wide array of Asian food. —M.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $25

88 Burbank Ranch 2013 Little Rascal Estate Grown Arneis (Paso Robles). This uncom-

mon Italian grape gets a good showing, with aromas of red apples, lychee and wet stone. The flavors are evenly presented with citrus and stone fruit, a straight-forward sipper perfect for sunny days. —M.K. abv: 13.4% Price: $29

88 Michael Gill 2013 Oso Blanco Vermentino (Paso Robles). This rather uncommon

white varietal is primed for shellfish or anything needing a burst of acidity. Aromas of Meyer lemon and lime pith get roundness from a light touch of peach. The flavors are dominated by very tart Gran-ny Smith apple and bitter yellow grapefruit skin. Excellent for acid-lovers, though perhaps too biting for others. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $40

88 Vinum 2013 Chenin Blanc (Clarksburg). Clean, crisp, dry and tangy, this pale-col-

ored Chenin Blanc appeals because of its freshness and bracing acidity. It smells like fresh-cut apples and a whiff of honey, tastes juicy and lively, and feels refreshing, medium-bodied and well balanced. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

85 Bota Box 2013 Moscato (California). This flowery-smelling, fruity-tasting, sweet wine

requires no learning curve to enjoy. The honeysuck-le aromas and ripe peach flavors are a lot of fun to

WINEMAG.COM | 33

pick out, and the texture is soft and easy to swallow. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 10.5% Price: $23/3 L

85 LXV 2013 Dark Romance Chenin Blanc (Paso Robles). Promising aromas of tangerine,

light honey and plumeria flowers make a good intro-duction to this rare look at Chenin Blanc in Paso Ro-bles. The flavors fall a bit flat, though, proving very round with a just a hint of chopped herbs. —M.K. abv: 13.6% Price: $35

ROSÉS

90 De Loach 2013 Olivet Bench Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir Rosé (Russian River Valley). Rich

in red and yellow hues, this wine is refreshing in strawberry and dark cherry fruit, supple and bright, the acidity providing a lift on the palate and long-lasting finish. Structured, it’ll hold up to pairings and continue to maintain its freshness over time. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

89 Jericho Canyon Vineyard 2013 Estate Rosé (Napa Valley). Light salmon-pink in color,

this refreshing wine is made from a combination of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, which all provide structure and com-plexity. Subtle in aroma and flavor, it is light and tart, leaning toward intriguing flavors of pomegran-ate and cranberry. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $40

88 Archium 2013 Rosé (Santa Barbara County). Made entirely from Grenache, this begins

with aromas of pink lemonade and grapefruit. The vibrant, acid-driven palate is dominated by verve and zing, with mostly citrus flavors and not much ripe fruit. —M.K. abv: 13% Price: $20

88 Benessere 2013 Estate St. Helena Vineyard Rosato di Sangiovese (Napa Valley). This

dark-red Rosato has 90% Sangiovese and 10% Zinfandel and a tiny pinch of residual sugar, com-bining into a lively, midweight package dancing in strawberry and raspberry flavor and a finish of herb. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $18

86 Derby 2012 Derby Vineyard Rosé (Paso Robles). Dark and nearly ruby red in color,

this nonetheless offers reserved aromas, with just hints of ripe plum flesh. On the palate, the 100% Mourvèdre is smooth and uncomplicated, with grape punch and hibiscus flavors more prominent. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

CALIFORNIARED WINESPINOT NOIR

97 Wayfarer 2012 The Traveler Pinot Noir (Fort Ross-Seaview). For full review see page 3.


96 Wayfarer 2012 Golden Mean Pinot Noir (Fort Ross-Seaview). Crafted from estate-grown

fruit—a marriage of Pommard and Swan clones—Golden Mean comes from three distinct vineyard blocks, the Pommard fermented whole-cluster. It opens with dark, ripe layers of lush cherry-vanilla, the wine concentrated and rich in oak yet balanced in acidity. On the finish is a mix of leather, licorice and wild herb. Tuck it away through 2020–2022. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $115

95 Trombetta 2012 Gap’s Crown Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Dark, concentrated

and grippy, this is a sizable Pinot from a cool, cov-eted vineyard. Juicy blue and blackberry fruit domi-nate on the nose and palate, surrounded by exotic cedar, clove, oak and toffee, a swipe of vanilla lurk-ing behind the front flavors. The big tannins will appreciate time in the cellar, through 2022–2024. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $65

95 Wayfarer 2012 Mother Rock Pinot Noir (Fort Ross-Seaview). Brooding in dark cherry and

earthy spice, this fully figured wine offers well-in-tegrated oak. With a savory and powerful profile, it has a forceful grip on the palate accented by black tea, truffle and juicy vibrancy. From a mix of Dijon clones (37 and 777), some fermented whole-clus-ter, this is a structured, wine from a meticulously farmed coastal site. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $115

94 Babcock 2012 Radical Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Buttered berries, bitter rhubarb,

bergamot, wet sage and pencil lead comprise an-other fascinating nose from Bryan Babcok’s twist on the Radian Vineyard. The mouthfeel is lush and the flavors quite complicated, with black licorice, cinnamon-laced tea, fennel bulb and underripe blackberries. Boasting a nice tannic structure, this is drinking great right now, but hold off till 2020 for supreme sipping. Cellar Selection. —M.K. abv: 15.1% Price: $60

94 De Coelo 2012 Arbore Sacra Pinot Noir (So-noma Coast). Of the four De Coelo Pinot

Noirs sourced from this one special site, Arbore Sa-cra is the most earthy, savory and viscous. Grapes come from the Calera clone, beautifully structured and shyly subtle. In this graceful wine, expect nu-anced layers of Asian spice and blackberry, with

finely honed tannins and a lingering, spicy finish. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $75

94 Dutton-Goldfield 2012 Dutton Ranch Free-stone Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River

Valley). For full review see page 4. abv: 13.5% Price: $72

94 Fritz 2012 Reserve Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This offers a well-defined balance

between ripe, juicy cherry fruit and a seductive earthiness that keeps every sip intriguing. Struc-tured and medium in weight, it’s a fine choice for the table, the spiciness on the back palate particu-larly well-honed and worth recognition. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $50

94 Ken Brown 2010 Rancho La Viña Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Black cherry,

blueberry and blackberry combine for a rewardingly rich, ripe nose, layered with flecks of graphite and chai-like spice. The palate is driven at first by black soil elements, evolving into cooked cherries, tar and bitter root vegetables, yet possessing a strawberry lightness as well. This is extremely complex and as fresh as any more recent vintages. —M.K. abv: 14.4% Price: $60

94 The 50 by 50 2012 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full review see page 4. Editors’


94 Wayfarer 2012 Wayfarer Vineyard Pinot Noir (Fort Ross-Seaview). An estate blend of 12

different clones, this dark ruby wine is bristling in acidity and swirling in flavors of strawberry, cherry and wild fennel. Well integrated and concentrated, it offers a fully balanced, elegnat expression of the site. It provides a perfect introduction to the win-ery’s lineup of site-specific Pinots. Start here and delve deeper; this wine is both a preview of and statement of more to come. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $90

94 Windward Vineyard 2008 Estate Bottled Monople Pinot Noir (Paso Robles). This is an

exciting, classic wine from an appellation not par-ticularly known for this grape. Sour cherries, citrus peel and olive tapenade consume the complex nose, and the flavors evolve steadily against the backdrop of an elegant structure: cranberry-laced tea, cola and lingering anise. A thrilling look at how Paso Pi-not can succeed with age. —M.K. abv: 14.3% Price: $38

93 Babcock 2012 Appellation’s Edge Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Bryan Babcock’s three de-

cades of experience show better than ever right now. This bottling from Radian Vineyard offers aro-mas of charred cloves, wet slate, peppercorns and macerated raspberries. Lively and energetic on the palate, it bursts with flavors of wild berries and ripe

BUYINGGUIDE


cranberries, with a tart citrusy twist that’s a wake-up call to the mouth. —M.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $60

93 Big Basin 2012 Woodruff Family Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). From

35-year-old dry farmed wines (the oldest in Cor-ralitos) and 30% whole cluster/wild yeast fermen-tation comes aromas of pine pitch and blackberry jelly. The flavors are driven by sagebrush against a backdrop of deep purple fruit, with distinctive notes of juniper and eucalyptus powering the flavors from front to back. —M.K. abv: 14% Price: $44

93 De Coelo 2012 Quintus Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Voluptuous in wild strawberry,

cranberry and tart cherry, Quintus is light and sug-gestively chalky, balanced in velvety tannins and a backbone of structure. Dancing in the background is a taste of black tea and dark, fragrant earth. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $75

93 Dutton-Goldfield 2012 Fox Den Vineyard Pi-not Noir (Green Valley). For full review see

page 5. abv: 13.5% Price: $58

93 Dutton-Goldfield 2012 McDougall Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full review


93 Flying Goat Cellars 2011 Rancho Santa Rosa Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Wine-

maker Norm Yost racks up bundles of sagebrush, wild mint and all manner of fresh-cut chaparral on the nose of this stellar bottling, which comes from a vineyard on one of California’s longest-held ran-chos. The herbally driven palate mixes black and green olives with fresh raspberry juice and black pepper. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $48

93 Fog Crest 2012 Laguna West Pinot Noir (Rus-sian River Valley). Strong, earthy and herbal,

this dances in wild strawberry and dark cherry that’s concentrated in texturally pleasing layers leading up to a potent, spicy finish. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $39

93 Fort Ross 2012 Fort Ross Vineyard Sea Slopes Pinot Noir (Fort Ross-Seaview). Pleasantly

pungent in ripe damson plum, this Pinot has lovely acidity, giving it a spicy mouthfeel around firmly present tannins. Full-bodied midpalate, the wine mellows through to the finish, ending in juicy fruit and earth. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $42

93 Foxen 2012 John Sebastiano Vinyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). For full review see page

5. abv: 14% Price: $48

93 J Vineyards & Winery 2012 Freestone Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley).

Tight at first, this elegant Pinot from cooler climes is velvety on the palate with a back note of juicy blueberry fruit that maintains an edge of acidity and tension. Earthy black tea wraps the fruit in a savory core of intrigue and desire. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $75

93 J Vineyards & Winery 2012 Nicole’s Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Nicole’s is

a consistent stunner, upholding its reputation just fine with this vintage, a vibrant and spicy take on rich, robust cherry and black raspberry that’s both juicy and smooth. The finish wraps up nicely with a take on dark chocolate and mint. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

93 Wayfarer 2012 Paige’s Ridge Pinot Noir (Fort Ross-Seaview). From one block of the estate

vineyard planted exclusively to Dijon clone 667, Paige’s is deep and dark in color, intense in oak and earthiness, almost a quarter of it undergoing whole cluster fermentation. As intense on the palate as it is darkly hued, it offers brambly blackberry and dark cherry around a core of wild Tahitian vanilla and cinnamon-cardamom spice. —V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $125

92 Black Ridge 2010 Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). There’s a dynamic

range of aromas on this wine, from dark blackber-ry fruit to sassafras, anise, eucalyptus, coffee and earthy loam. It’s rich with nicely chalky tannins on the palate, with flavors of cooked black cherry, black tea and licorice. —M.K. abv: 14.4% Price: $44

92 Daou 2012 Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). Though more focused on Bordeaux varieties, the

Daou brothers produce a fantastic Pinot Noir to chew on, with rich aromas of cherry pie set in a anise-flecked crust. The wine is soft and plush once sipped, with black cherries, root beer and strong black licorice elements. —M.K. abv: 14.4% Price: $65

92 Davies 2012 Londer Vineyards Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). Davies has been mak-

ing Pinot Noir since 2009. Firm, lively acidity and generous tannins in this complex wine lift up the distinctive cherry and clove flavors. A sharp balance means the fruit flavors and fine structure fill each other out for a harmonious whole. —J.G. abv: 14% Price: $55

92 Davies 2012 Spring Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Feral and wild, Spring Hill

Vineyard lies in the Petaluma Gap where it is regu-larly enveloped in fog and cooling coastal winds. The result here is a soft, slightly stemmy, earthy wine with balanced layers of cherry, raspberry and vanilla. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $55

92 De Coelo 2012 Domaine de Clarck Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). From a barrel selection

of the Quintus block, planted to the 828 clone of Pinot Noir, this wine offers a bigger mouthfeel and heartier vinous experience, awash in darker cherry fruit and more substantial tannin. Floral in rose and violet on the nose, those floral highlights return on the palate, giving the wine a nice tension and bal-ance. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $100

92 De Coelo 2012 Terra Neuma Pinot Noir (So-noma Coast). Intense and feral in brooding

dark cherry, this Terra Neuma from the extreme So-noma Coast vineyard known as De Coelo is owned and tended to by the Benziger family, who pull out all the stops with its annual collection of Pinots from the site. Earthy, this one is also silky, subdued and quite elegant. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $75

92 De Loach 2012 OFS Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Fantastically bright acidity defines

this wine, the winery’s “finest selection,” which is memorable for its crisp black cherry and strawberry core of fruit. Voluptuous and silky on the palate, it carries a hint of Asian spice throughout, the slight-est taste of wild vanilla wrapping things up on the finish. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

92 Flying Goat Cellars 2011 Dierberg Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Norm Yost

produces another distinct wine, unleashing aromas of roasted lavender and seared violets alongside Mission figs and anise. The fresh and lively wine is extremely soft on the palate with elderberry and other deeply purple fruit. It also possesses a plum-skin tartness that wipes the finish clean. —M.K. abv: 13.2% Price: $46

92 Fort Ross Vineyard 2010 Reserve Pinot Noir (Fort Ross-Seaview). Dark purple in color,

this is a fully realized Pinot Noir, aged longer in bot-tle before release, to great effect. Spicy and earthy, it offers a density that’s not overwhelming but gives the wine an ideal combination of style and sub-stance, complex in cherry and vanilla. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

92 J Vineyards & Winery 2012 Bow Tie Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Black Tie is

planted to a variety of clones, including Swan and Rochioli. It is one of the winery’s newest vineyard sources and this vintage is the first of its vineyard-designated wines from the site. Floral in anise, plum and raspberry, it is medium-bodied with a back-ground of oak that picks up on the finish, offering seasonings of caramel and chocolate. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $75

92 J Vineyards & Winery 2012 Strata Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Named for the soil

layers important to wine’s terroir, this Pinot is sourced from a variety of sites and multiple clones,

WINEMAG.COM | 35

providing a complexity of wild strawberry, high acidity and an herbaceous, oaky backdrop. A teas-ing kiss of toffee and chocolate on the finish is deli-ciously intriguing. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

92 Mercy 2012 Riverbed Pinot Noir (Arroyo Seco). For full review see page 6. Editors’

Choice.abv: 14.5% Price: $28

92 Sanctuary 2012 Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). For full review see


92 Schermeister 2012 Paladini Vineyard Pi-not Noir (Carneros). From the Napa side of

Carneros, this small-production Pinot is concen-trated and oaky, layered throughout in spicy black cherry tart. The strong flavors lead to a strong, em-phatic finish. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $47

92 Small Vines 2012 MK Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Earthy, velvety and spicy,

this is lean and balanced in acidity with a meati-ness to the midpalate and finish. Layered, it is con-centrated in nuanced cherry and raspberry with a depth of forest floor. —V.B. abv: 13.6% Price: $72

92 Weatherborne 2012 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Distinctly wet-earth aromas of

mushroom surround a line of graphite with touches of red fruit in this impressive bottling from young winemaker Cris Carter. The umami-driven flavors of shiitake and dried figs are elegant and soft in the mouth, a great fit for lovers of earthy, savory Pinot Noir. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $35

92 Wrath 2012 Ex Anima Pinot Noir (Monterey). Winemaker Michael Thomas’s Ex Anima

(which means from the soul) series employs mini-mal new oak,.This botting reveals a strong nose of root beer, green olives, blistered tomatoes and wild sage. The tea-like flavors are laced with berries, oregano and thyme, quite soulful indeed. —M.K. abv: 13.6% Price: $29

91 Big Basin 2012 Lester Family Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). Another wildly

complicated Pinot Noir from Bradley Brown, this smells of crimini mushrooms, smoldering chemise and sweet cherry tomato reduction sauce, with a pinch of cinnamon. It’s lush with soft red and pur-ple fruit once sipped, with smoky spice on the edges and smashed olives throughout. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $44

91 Derby 2011 Derbyshire Vineyard Pinot Noir (San Luis Obispo County). This vineyard sits

quite near the cool Cambria coastline, yet the grape-growing challenges faced with each vintage are not

present on this wine, which combines raspberry, cedar and pan-seared peppercorns on the excellent nose. The palate is powered by gingerbread cake topped with a clove-berry sauce. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $36

91 Dierberg 2012 Drum Canyon Vineyard Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). A very sa-

vory nose calls to mind mushrooms sautéed in Ital-ian herbs, with touches of eucalyptus and licorice on the fringes. The mouthfeel is light in density, alive with acidity and tannins, tending more to-wards marinated black olives and charcuterie than ripe red fruits. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $44

91 Ernest 2012 The Engineer Romanini Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full review


91 Foxen 2012 Fe Ciega Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). For this bottling, Billy Wathen and

Dick Dore use fruit from the estate of their longtime friend, Richard Longoria. Brisk with graphite, it’s also laden with baking spice and fresh with rasp-berry sauce on the delicate, intriguing nose. Cloves and pomegranate dominate the palate, with linger-ing dark red fruit on the finish. —M.K. abv: 14% Price: $66

91 Hendry 2011 Hendry Vineyard Pinot Noir (Napa Valley). Lightly textured, this is an ethereal

and sublime wine. Dark brick red in color but feath-ery on the palate, it offes earthy cherry around a core of subtle spice. —V.B. abv: 13.1% Price: $33

91 Pali 2012 Fiddlestix Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Dark cranberries, violet and sagebrush

form the core aromas, with a bit of buttery crust on the edges of this blend of four clones. The flavors are black and bitter, with strong, plum-skin tannins currently hiding the riper fruit and spice rack that will emerge with more time. Pop this for Thanksgiv-ing 2016 or 2017 to impress the table. Cellar Selec-tion. —M.K. abv: 14.8% Price: $56

91 Sarah’s Vineyard 2011 Reserve Pinot Noir (Santa Clara Valley). There’s a good deal of

complexity on this top bottling from this Gilroy-based producer, with chopped black olive, cola, cloves, thyme and dried lemon peel on the nose. It’s expansive on the palate, with strawberry, leather, sour cranberry and chopped herb flavors. —M.K. abv: 14.4% Price: $40

91 TR Elliott 2012 Queste Pinot Noir (Russian Riv-er Valley). From the Hallberg and O’Connell

Vineyards, both well-respected sites, this wine delivers seamless texture and clear, well-integrat-ed oak and earth among voluptuous layers of wild

strawberry. Hearty yet balanced, it’s deliciously lush and dense without going over the top. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $44

91 Trombetta 2012 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). From a newish, small producer that’s worth

keeping an eye on, this wine is earthy and slightly cloudy, balanced in nature. Wild strawberry and cranberry are pitted smoothly against firm, medi-um-bodied tannins and oak. The finish is crisp and juicy. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $45

90 Black Stallion 2012 Pinot Noir (Carneros). For full review see page 10. —V.B.

abv: 14.5% Price: $28

90 Buena Vista 2012 Private Reserve Pinot Noir (Sonoma County). There’s an earthy inten-

sity to this reserve wine, generous in oak and cedar notes with complicated, concentrated mix of plum, cherry and berry. Nonetheless, the wine intrigues and delights. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

90 City Winery Chicago 2012 Bien Nacido Vine-yard Reserve Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Val-

ley). Bien Nacido Vineyard fruit is so popular that even Chicago winemakers are making Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir these days. This easy-drinking, fun wine offers a juicy cranberry-orange-raisin nose bolstered by brown spice, and flavors of cran-orange juice and crushed purple flowers. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $35

90 Cutruzzola 2012 Gloria Pinot Noir (San Luis Obispo County). Coming from one of the

few vineyards between the coastal town of Cam-bria and Paso Robles, this brooding wine offers dark and dank aromas of black dirt, slate, charred meat and very black cherry. Once sipped, sagebrush and lavender herbals emerge, along with sour cherry. A promising effort for an area that may be its own ap-pellation one day. —M.K. abv: 14.4% Price: $40

90 Davies 2012 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). Full body and saturated fruit and spice fla-

vors make this a rather big but complex wine. The fruit notes are quite ripe, cinnamon and vanilla nu-ances coming out on the palate. Texture is creamy, helping all the good stuff linger on the finish. —J.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $30

90 Davies 2012 Nobles Vineyard Pinot Noir (So-noma Coast). Nobles is a lovely vineyard

within what many are calling now the West Sonoma Coast, a sub-pocket of the sprawling official So-noma Coast. Here it imparts faint color and a silki-ness to the palate, marked additionally by bright, fresh cherry and dried herb. Subtle, the wine is structured and elegant. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $55

BUYINGGUIDE


90 Domaine Carneros 2012 Clonal Series Swan Pinot Noir (Carneros). Soft and sexy, this

small-production Pinot is made from Swan-clone grapes exclusively, which provides an intriguing spiciness to the wine. Amid the spice is a brambly taste of blackberry and blueberry, layered and juicy on the palate, the tannins well-ingrained through the finish. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $55

90 Domaine Carneros 2012 La Terre Promise Es-tate Single Vineyard Pinot Noir (Carneros).

There’s an old-world sensibility to this wine, made from estate-grown, organically certified grapes from one vineyard. Raspberry and tart cherry dance around an elegant, silky texture of tannins and rounded finish. The 15 months of barrel aging are subtle in providing structure. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $55

90 En Garde 2011 Reserve Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Extended time in all new

French oak barrels give this wine a heartier feel than it might otherwise have, swirls of oaky caramel and toast most prominent on the nose and initial palate. A richness of color also stands out, while velvety tannins and red fruit complete the experi-ence. Letting the wine open helps temper its size, revealing a measured level of refinement. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $60

90 Fulcrum 2012 On Point Christina’s Cuvee Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). This one is

all about elegant balance, electric acidity and mild but angular tannins that seem to light up the pal-ate while the fresh red cherry and raspberry flavors soothe and satisfy. It’s medium-bodied, very firm in texture and flavorful without being overdone. —J.G. abv: 14% Price: $35

90 J Vineyards & Winery 2012 Barrel 16 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). There is an

opulence of ripe, black fruit in this Pinot, a selec-tion from various vineyard sources throughout the appellation. Floral in violet and rose, it offers rich cardamom-cinnamon spice and a balanced taste of cola and jam. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $75

90 Joseph Phelps 2012 Freestone Vineyards Es-tate Grown Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For

full review see page 11. abv: 14.5% Price: $55

90 Lachini 2012 La Cruz Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This brick-red wine

comes from Keller Estate Winery’s estate vineyard, a prime site overlooking the Petaluma Gap , which gets plenty of fog and wind. Stemmy and earthy, it is a powerful wine, slightly sweet in brown sugar and vanilla oak, a swath of jammy cherry and raspberry throughout. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $50

90 Marimar Estate 2012 Doña Margarita Vine-yard Mas Cavalls Unfiltered Estate Grown &

Bottled Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full review see page 11. abv: 14.2% Price: $44

90 Sarah’s Vineyard 2012 Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). Taking fruit from his es-

tate’s neighboring, higher elevation appellation, vintner Tim Slater delivers aromas of rhubarb, beet juice and fennel shavings. The very flavorful wine is lush with red fruits and brown spices like nutmeg, delivering a solid, straight-forward representation of the beloved grape. —M.K. abv: 14.6% Price: $32

90 Small Vines 2012 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Made in tiny quantities, this wine

comes from the Barlow Homestead, a cool ridgetop vineyard that gets plenty of coastal wind. Struc-tured, it offers firm tannins and layers of black lico-rice, tea and oak, a combination of Pommard and Swan clones showing their character. —V.B. abv: 13.2% Price: $55

89 Claiborne & Churchill 2012 Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). A powerful spice rack of mace, all-

spice and cinnamon stick coat aromas of roasted tomatoes on this wine from the longtime Alsatian-focused producer. The flavors come and go quickly, but feature orange peel-driven acidity, squeezed plum fruit and cranberry juice. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $28

89 De Loach 2012 Pennacchio Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Fresh and vi-

brant in sour red cherry upon entry, this vineyard-designate evolves into fleshier, fuller-bodied over-tones of ripe, dark fruit and game, the wine juicy and voluptuous. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

89 Dierberg 2012 Estate Pinot Noir (Santa Ma-ria Valley). A delicious aromatic range of

smoked meats, spicy strawberries and cinnamon-laced churros introduce this wine from one of the appellation’s most promising vineyards. Red fruits and brown spice power the palate, with notice-able tannins and a good wash of acid on the finish. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $44

89 Domaine Carneros 2012 The Famous Gate Pinot Noir (Carneros). This Pinot offers a

substantial amount of big, concentrated fruit, from plum to ripe, almost baked cherry, the kind you’d find in a pie. Pronounced oak underlies a sizable amount of tannin structure, with savory spice and earthy leather layered into the wine. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $75

89 Emeritus 2012 Hallberg Ranch Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This is a high-toned,

structured wine with vibrant acidity that is layered in earth, spice, raspberry and black tea. After a me-

dium-sized weight to the midpalate, it finishes soft and round. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $42

89 Lafond 2010 Pommard Clone Lafond Vine-yard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). This clonal

study by winemaker Bruce McGuire and regional pioneer Pierre Lafond offers scents of ripe cranberry with notes of wild mint. It’s peppery on the front part of the palate, evolving toward strawberry in the middle before winding up tart and slightly bitter. —M.K. abv: 15.2% Price: $50

89 Pietra Santa 2011 Signature Collection Es-tate Grown and Bottled Pinot Noir (Cienega

Valley). Hailing from an estate founded in the 1850s amidst the granite and limestone soils of the San Andreas Fault, this savory wine offers a nose of red rose, black earth, cinnamon and wild mint. The pal-ate is dominated by cooked red fruit, with chalky tannins and a slightly sour yeastiness. —M.K. abv: 14.4% Price: $35

88 Domaine Carneros 2012 Pinot Noir (Carne-ros). Estate-grown grapes make up this

wine, an elegant expression of raspberry and cherry complemented by cola and vanilla. With supple tannins the wine is easy to enjoy, the finish intense without exaggeration. The grapes are organically grown. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $36

88 Gundlach Bundschu 2012 Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This bottling

comes from the winery’s Rhinefarm Estate Vineyard near the town of Sonoma, planted to eight separate Pinot Noir blocks. Savory in cranberry and cassis and quite austere, it’s balanced in aromas of rose petal and a taste of black tea. Tannins are ripe yet firm, providing structure to help age the wine fur-ther. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $37

88 Jekel 2012 Pinot Noir (Monterey). For full review see page 13.

abv: 14.5% Price: $16

88 Pennywise 2012 Pinot Noir (California). For full review see page 15. Best Buy.

abv: 13.5% Price: $12

88 Sarah’s Vineyard 2011 Estate Pinot Noir (Santa Clara Valley). Though not known as

a particularly cool region, the hills southwest of San Jose turn out solid Pinot Noirs for this winery. Aro-mas recall olives, forest floor and cloves, and flavors are quite smooth, with buttered cherries, peppery spice, cola and vibrant acidity that cuts a clean, quick finish. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $36

88 Summerland 2013 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara County). Root beer, sage and pomegranate

emerge with coaxing off this vineyard blend from

WINEMAG.COM | 37

Summerland, whose tasting room is steps from the beach. The palate is tense with slate-driven miner-ality and high tones of raspberry, relying on acidity rather than ripeness. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $25

87 Calista 2012 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia High-lands). Warm fruit aromas of raspberry tart

with a soft butter edge lead the nose. Flavors are not particularly strong, though there is a touch of red berries, and the palate is defined by tartness and bitterness. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

87 Cherry Pie 2013 Cherry Tart Pinot Noir (Cali-fornia). Lush, oak-aided aromas of browned

butter, cherry-pie crust and sweet Vietnamese cof-fee come off of this blend of fruit from Monterey, Santa Barbara, and Sonoma counties. The flavors are fruit punchy at first, with cooked cherries, but grow more intriguing with anise, oregano and a tan-nic, orange peel finish. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

87 Labyrinth 2012 Pinocules Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). There’s a noticeable green-

ness to the nose of this intriguing if challenging wine, with scents of jalapeño, pencil shavings and uncured cedar emerging from the whole-cluster fermentation. The interesting elements continue to the palate, with peppercorns present alongside good acid and tannins, but without much ripe fruit at all. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $65

87 Lost Canyon 2012 Whitton Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Soft and round,

this single-vineyard designated wine conveys earthy, stemmy undertones. Big, chewy cherry fruit dominates on the palate. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $45

87 Santa Barbara Winery 2013 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara County). Cola, upturned earth and

wet pine needles emerge off of this entry-level Pinot from the region’s first modern winery. The flavors range from scorched raspberry to tart cranberry, with the bitter side of the grape quite prominent. That may mellow over some time. —M.K. abv: 14.7% Price: $18

87 Sarah’s Vineyard 2012 Estate Pinot Noir (Santa Clara Valley). Black tea, charred cher-

ries and tree bark aromas arise off this wine from a cooler part of a warm appellation. The wine is a bit thin and light on the palate once sipped, with pome-granate fruit. Drink at the beach or with lighter fare. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $36

87 Taken 2013 Complicated Pinot Noir (Sonoma County). There’s an earthy funkiness to this

inexpensive Pinot, made at an unheard-of price point for the area. Dry tannins greet the entry fol-

lowed up by burly oak and big brambly blackberry and cherry fruit, a touch of herb on the finish. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

87 Vino Vargas 2012 RIo Ruso Pinot Noir (Rus-sian River Valley). Light in texture, this

wine shows a fair amount of barrel influence aro-matically. On the palate, it’s similarly challenging to disregard the oak, which frames a mid-weight body marked by sour cherry. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $45

86 Black Stallion 2012 Limited Release Pinot Noir (Los Carneros). This Pinot is austere

and tremendously earthy, flavored in forest floor and wild mushroom, a trail of dried herb accentuat-ing the finish. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $35

86 Bread & Butter 2013 Pinot Noir (California). A rich coating of oaky, sweet-seeming vanil-

la and maple notes dominates this medium-bodied, broad and rich wine. The modest cherry and berry flavors can’t quite compete with all the oak, but there’s no denying that it’s tasty. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

86 Davies 2012 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). From a trio of vineyards the winery oth-

erwise vineyard-designates, including Spring Hill, Saltonstall and Nobles, this Pinot is rustic in truffled earth and dried herb, the earthiness of the Pommard clone grapes out in full force. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $30

86 Kalaris 2011 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Thinly textured and light red in color, this

Pinot is lean and very much in display of rustic, earthy aromas and flavors. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $52

86 R2 2012 Red Birds Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Minty and earthy, this has a funki-

ness along with thick layers of black raspberry and tea. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $32

85 Black Box 2013 Pinot Noir (California). For full review see page 16. Best Buy.

abv: 13.2% Price: $25/3 L

85 Landmark 2012 Grand Detour Pinot Noir (So-noma Coast). Soft and ripe, this is straight-

forward in blackberry, dark cherry and a touch of game. The medium-bodied palate is easygoing and a match for a wide variety of meals. Enjoy now. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

85 Panaro Brothers Winery 2010 Los Alamos Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara County). The aro-

mas on this blend of Los Alamos fruit are highly extracted, like berry liqueur. The cooked red fruit carries to the palate as well, amplified with a touch of spice cake. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $26

83 Redwood Ridge Estate 2013 Estate Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). Slightly sour

aromas of cooked prunes consume the nose on this very simply presented wine, with just a front label. Stewed plums with ginger and other brown spices characterize the palate. —M.K. abv: 13% Price: $25

80 Kirkland Signature 2012 Pinot Noir (Carne-ros). A streak of eucalyptus and menthol

verges on minty mouthwash, amking for a not-alto-gether pleasant drinking experience. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $10

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

94 Tobacco Road 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review see page 4.

abv: 14.5% Price: $199

93 Hunnicutt 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Ruth-erford). For full review see page 5. Cellar

Selection. abv: 14.7% Price: $85

93 Stone The Crows 2012 Three Twins Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full

review see page 5. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.9% Price: $95

93 Volker Eisele Family Estate 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review see

page 6. Cellar Selection. abv: 13.8% Price: $50

92 Blackjack 2010 Harmonie Cabernet Sau-vignon (Santa Barbara County). A heav-

ily spiced nose of cracked peppercorn and tobacco notes mesh with blackberry extract and blueber-ries on this top bottling from the winery. Its flavors are even darker than blue fruit, with creosote and smoked cigar elements that mellow and evolve as the bottle sits open. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $75

92 Falcone 2011 Mia’s Vineyard Cabernet Sau-vignon (Paso Robles). A wild array of aro-

mas emerge from this wine by the estate vineyard of John and Helen Flacone: blueberry, black cherry, smoked cedar, sweet tobacco, lead, pungent pepper-corns and sweet hickory. It stays soft and light on the palate, with buoyant acidity balancing the dark fruits. Quite a wine to name after their daughter. —M.K. abv: 14.4% Price: $50

92 Grgich Hills 2010 Yountville Selection Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley).

For full review see page 6. Cellar Selection. abv: 15.1% Price: $195

92 Martin Lane Winery 2010 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Sierra Foothills). Richness, concen-

tration and exotic mint and dark chocolate flavors

BUYINGGUIDE


help this darkly colored and full-bodied Cabernet stand out. It layers mouth-coating tannins over ripe black cherry, black olive and light sage flavors. Should be a crowd pleaser for a special dinner. Best now through 2024. Cellar Selection. —J.G. abv: 14% Price: $30

92 Mulvane Wine Co. 2011 Neal 3 Vineyard Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This small-

production Cab is at first faint in subtle fruit but slowly works its magic, offering balanced layers of black currant and blackberry around soft, toasty mocha oak, picking up nuance and complexity on the way to a lingering finish. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $70

92 Tobacco Road 2008 Private Reserve Caber-net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This private

reserve is 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Malbec and 2% Petit Verdot, aged considerably in bottle. Rich and full-bodied, it has a vanilla-kissed nose and earthy leather pedigree, the black cherry flavor concentrated and thick. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $99

91 Alta 2011 Vintners Reserve Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Napa Valley). Solid and full-bodied,

this tightly structured Cabernet has a deep red-black color. Enticing aromas of cedar and cinna-mon precede focused but not overly ripe fruit fla-vors that suggest black cherry and cranberry, plus a dark chocolate impression that suits it well. It’s tight with tannins right now, so best to drink after 2016. —J.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $75

91 Flora Springs 2011 Hillside Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). From a tiny hill-

side block in Rutherford, this 100% Cab is soft in clove, black currant and olive, juicy yet restrained. It spent almost two years in 90% new French oak, but the presence of oak is subtle and the tannins well-managed, making the wine both enjoyable now and worth cellaring through 2020. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $125

91 Hall 2011 Jack’s Masterpiece Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Napa Valley). For full review see page

9. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.9% Price: $125

91 Le Vigne 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Ro-bles). For full review see page 9.

abv: 13.9% Price: $35

91 M by Michael Mondavi 2010 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Napa Valley). Sourced from the fami-

ly’s Animo Vineyard atop Atlas Peak, this Cab comes from the highest-elevation blocks on the vineyard, some 1,350 feet up. Ripe plum fruit flavors sur-round savory elements of black tea, the structure well-honed and age-worthy through 2020–2025. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $200

91 Silverado 2011 SOLO Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap District). For full review see page

9. abv: 13.3% Price: $100

90 Brandlin 2011 Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Napa Valley). For full review see page

10. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

90 Brandlin 2011 Henry’s Keep Proprietary Red (Napa Valley). Brandlin is Cuvaison’s

Mount Veeder-situated property devoted to Bor-deaux grapes. This particular bottling is a blend of 81% Cabernet Sauvignon with 15% Malbec, 2% Pe-tit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc. Juicy and woody, it opens with a rich, Cabernet Franc-like nose of herb and cassis and is balanced on the palate, with a ripeness of oak at the end. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $98

90 Carnivor 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Califor-nia). For full review see page 14. Best Buy.

abv: 13.8% Price: $15

90 Chimney Rock 2011 Ganymede Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap District).

This is a rather classic Stags Leap Cabernet, savory in currant and clove with a toasty oak overlay. It’s structured in sizable tannins that should give the wine plenty of time to develop in bottle, through 2020–2025. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $125

90 Clos du Val 2010 Joie du Vin Cabernet Sau-vignon (Stags Leap District). A 100% Cab-

ernet Sauvignon from 20-plus-year-old vines, this wine is nearly black in color and balanced between rich dark cherry and blueberry fruit and more sa-vory layers of tart cranberry and cherry. It’s tightly wound and grippy, the oak providing structure and strength, with a finish of tobacco. Let age through 2020. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $400

90 Hall 2011 Ellie’s Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This wine is named for the moth-

er of one of the owners, an artist and teacher who provided the inspired artwork found on the label. It blends mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with smaller handfuls of Cabernet Franc and Merlot and is soft in red currant with fully developed acidity. —V.B. abv: 15.3% Price: $80

90 Jamieson Ranch 2012 Double Lariat Caber-net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full re-

view see page 11. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

90 McManis 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon (Califor-nia). For full review see page 14. Best Buy.

abv: 13.5% Price: $11

90 Obsidian Ridge 2011 Obsidian Ridge Vine-yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Hills Lake

County). Big and rich, this needs time or a great steak to bring out its best. The color is very dark to the rim. Aromas are closed but the flavors compare to tart blackberry and black cherry with smoky ac-cents. It has density, a layered texture that is tan-nic but not harsh, and a reserved power that should come out with time. Best after 2018. Cellar Selec-tion. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $29

90 Pride Mountain 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma-Napa). From 62% Sonoma fruit

and 38% Napa, this 92% Cabernet Sauvignon is blended with small percentages of Merlot and Petit Verdot. A cassis-fragrant nose leads to deep, juicy layers of chocolate, black raspberry and soft tannins with a subtle suggestion of mint and restrained oak. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $70

90 Smith & Hook 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Central Coast). For full review see page 12.

abv: 14.8% Price: $25

89 Ancient Oak Cellars 2011 Tò Érgon Berger Vineyard (Sonoma Mountain). Tannic and

structured, this combines 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot, with a leathery, earthy fist-print of black fruit imprinted on the wine. It’s big boned but not out of balance and can stand some time lying down, through 2018. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $75

89 Herzog 2012 Variations Five Cabernet Sau-vignon (California). Pleasant richness and

depth of fruit flavor accompany the deep color and nicely chewy tannins in this full-bodied Cabernet. It tastes dry and well balanced between acidity, tan-nins and fruitiness, and will be a great mealtime wine with all kinds of protein. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $26

89 Pennywise 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cali-fornia). For full review see page 14. Best


89 Pomar Junction 2012 Estate Cabernet Sau-vignon (Paso Robles). Minerals and earth

lift the nose of this wine, with iron ore, rust and jet black soils alongside a touch of boysenberry fruit. The palate is sanguine as well, reflecting red volcanic dirts, with fruit trending toward violet and cranberry. —M.K. abv: 14.6% Price: $34

89 RouteStock Cellars 2012 Route 29 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Made by former

Chandon and Louis Martini winemaker Wayne Donaldson, this well-constructed Cab offers herbal blackberry and dark raspberry fruit around a core of soft tannins. It has a touch of grip to the finish, which is accented in richly roasted coffee. The addi-

WINEMAG.COM | 39

tion of 18% Merlot helps soften the overall picture. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

89 Steven Kent 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Livermore Valley). Well-structured and

medium-bodied, this has generous oak and spice aromas, rich and deep berry flavors, a firm and tan-nic texture and an almost sweet finish. This tastes well-balanced, lavishly flavored and tempting. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $48

88 B.R. Cohn 2012 Gold Label Cabernet Sau-vignon (Napa County-Sonoma County). A

100% Cabernet Sauvignon from both Napa County (67%) and Sonoma County (33%), Gold Label is a new line for the winery, meant to represent its ul-tra-premium collection of Cabernet. Howell Moun-tain and Atlas Peak are represented, as is the B.R. Cohn Olive Hill estate vineyard. Minty, with traces of cedar and cranberry, it offers firm tannins and a black cherry finish. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

88 Castoro Cellars 2012 Estate Cabernet Sau-vignon (Paso Robles). Castoro founder

Niels Udsen has been making wine since 1983. He produces a very classic style in this bottling, with cherry, brown spice and cedar on the nose. The pal-ate blends vanilla bean with black and Bing cher-ries, and sits on heavy tannins, ensuring a decent shelf life. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

88 City Winery of New York 2011 Obsidian Ridge Vineyard Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Red

Hills Lake County). A few years of aging may help this full-bodied, very structured and tannic Cab-ernet smooth out and gain more complexity. Al-ternatively, pour it now with something rich like a grilled rosemary lamb chop. It feels tight because of the dense, lip-smacking tannins, yet it does pack in considerable ripe plum, smoke and tobacco flavors. Best after 2017. —J.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $38

88 Dunning Vineyards 2012 Westside Estate Bottled Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles).

The nose on this wine from the Willow Creek area plays between the lighter elements of bright red cherries and heavier hints of tar, with a bit of sour plum thrown in as well. The palate is loaded with chalky tannins, offering flavors of black cherries and licorice, but it could use some more time in bottle. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $32

88 Ironstone 2011 Reserve Estate Grown Caber-net Sauvignon (Sierra Foothills). This full-

bodied red has the classic Cabernet aromas and fla-vors that made California wine famous in the 1970s. Plenty of black cherry is shaded by black olive and hints of bell pepper, plus softly spicy tones that may

come from barrel aging. It is firmly tannic and has a lingering finish. —J.G. abv: 14% Price: $30

88 Irony 2012 Small Lot Reserve Cabernet Sau-vignon (North Coast). For full review see


88 Michael David 2012 Earthquake Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). Boldly flavored and full-

bodied, this is marked by strong, spicy-sweet oak aromas and flavors. It has a massive richness of tannins, gobs of ripe boysenberry and black cherry character, and a very deep red color. Despite the hefty structure, it’s drinkable now if accompanied by equally rich food. —J.G. abv: 15% Price: $26

88 Noble Vines 2012 337 Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). For full review see page 13.

abv: 14.5% Price: $15

88 Pomar Junction 2010 Estate Reserve Caber-net Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Deeply purple

aromas of acai fruit and grape Jolly Rancher candies get a bit more serious with the scent of smoked ci-gars. The grape-juice element carries to the easy-to-drink, not overly complex palate, which will work well with food or just by itself. —M.K. abv: 15.1% Price: $54

88 Uphill Vineyards 2010 Jimmy’s Dream Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Amador County). Well-

made, well-balanced and medium-bodied, this combines moderate blackberry and black cherry flavors with subtle spicy notes. The texture is tannic enough to be great with food, but smooth enough to enjoy sipping. —J.G. abv: 13% Price: $28

88 Vina Robles 2010 Suendero (Paso Robles). On this blend of 79% Cabernet Sauvignon

and 21% Petit Verdot from Adelaida Springs Ranch, iron-laced, gamy scents lead the nose, which also picks up aromas of elderberry and oak smoke. Plums and other purple fruit show on the palate, along with black licorice and strong but well-integrated tannins. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $49

88 Vinum 2012 Veritas The Insider Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Producers Chris

Condos and Richard Bruno put together a fairly priced wine, with aromas of herbed pie crust sur-rounding warm blackberry fruit. There’s more smoked meat on the palate than ripe fruit, and it is quite tannic, so can handle heavy fare. —M.K. abv: 14% Price: $18

87 Herzog 2012 Variations Three Cabernet Sau-vignon (California). A tannic intensity makes

this full-bodied wine a candidate for further aging. It shows spicy, oaky aromas, ripe plum and cherry flavors, and a vivid sense of tooth-drying tannins

that are typical of young Cabernet Sauvignon. While it could pair well now with beef short ribs or osso buco, it should mellow after 2018. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $26

87 Pure Cru 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is a ripe, full-bodied Cab with

smaller percentages of Merlot and Cabernet Franc that give it a tinge of currant and cherry amid a larger presence of oaky vanilla. The finish brings the wine’s more sizable attributes to the fore. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $42

87 Shannon Ridge 2012 High Elevation Caber-net Sauvignon (Lake County). This fragrant

confection smells like caramel and toasted French bread, and tastes like milk chocolate and cher-ries without the sugar. It is medium-bodied, very smooth in texture and almost sweet on the finish. —J.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $23

86 CK Mondavi 2012 Wildcreek Canyon Cabernet Sauvignon (California). Flavors and body

that are textbook Cabernet Sauvignon—but on the light side—make this honest and straightforward. It smells like ripe plums, herbes de Provence and a bit like black olives. It tastes hearty, feeling round and smooth with just the right amount of tannic grip for a medium-bodied Cab. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $7

86 Concannon 2012 Selected Vineyards Caber-net Sauvignon (California). Earthy, slightly

oaky aromas, bright plum flavors and a smooth, juicy texture make this Cabernet a bit different and easily enjoyable. The flavors are generous, the bal-ance is almost sweet, the tannins are soft and the body is not too full. —J.G. abv: 13.1% Price: $15

86 Courtney Benham 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Grippy and surrounded in a

thick, leathery texture and aroma, it holds bright cranberry tones underneath the thickness, making this a palatable Cabernet. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $25

86 Greystone 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cali-fornia). A sense of sweetness and jammy

fruit flavors make this a good pairing to tame spicy, meaty foods like ribs, chili or Szechuan beef. It was fashioned almost like a Zinfandel, with lots of ripe-ness, ample sweet and spicy oak notes and full body. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

86 Jamieson Ranch 2012 Light Horse Three County Cabernet Sauvignon (California). An

almost sweet, ripe fruit character makes this entic-ing to smell and easy to drink. Though full-bodied and packed with fine tannins, it has a soothingly rich texture. A syrupy oak and fruit flavor lingers on the finish. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

BUYINGGUIDE


86 Nine North Wine Company 2012 Chasing Lions Cabernet Sauvignon (California). A

minty aspect to this smooth, medium-bodied Cab-ernet helps it stand out. It has tasty plum flavors, a polished texture, and moderate tannins and acidity. It’s easy to enjoy now. —J.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $14

85 Avalon 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val-ley). Soft and round, this 80% Cabernet

Sauvignon also has 16% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc and was given 16 months of oak aging. Flavors lean toward red berry and cedar. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $20

85 Belle Ambiance 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). For full review see page 16. Best

Buy. abv: 13% Price: $10

85 Frisson Wines 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This Cab is straightforward

in stark cherry and dry tannins, the texture still quite grippy and generous. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $60

85 HandCraft 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cali-fornia). Soft and easygoing, this has light

herb and cedar aromas, raspberry jam flavors, a light texture that’s not very tannic, and a sense of slight sweetness. Still it has enough body to feel generous. —J.G. abv: 14% Price: $13

85 Ironstone 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). A powerful, almost overbearing oak influ-

ence makes this wine bombastic. Toasty, maple sugar and smoked bacon flavors come from heavily charred new oak barrels or oak add-ins. It has a very dark color, full body, plenty of tannins and a smoky, oaky finish. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $12

85 Star Lane Vineyard 2010 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). This

is another heavily tannic wine from Star Lane, too young to predict exactly where it will wind up. Aro-mas are a bit reductively barnyard, and the flavors that peek out from behind the tannic wall are quite varied, from dark red fruit to slightly sour green ol-ive and aged spices. —M.K. abv: 14.6% Price: $46

85 Tuck Beckstoffer 2012 Est. 1975 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). This would make a

good everyday Cabernet due to its relatively light color and flavor intensity, smooth texture and again relatively light body. It does offer charming raspber-ry and black olive aromas, plus tasty cherry flavors without a lot of drying tannin. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

84 Domino 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon (Califor-nia). With medium body and flavors that

emphasize ripe cherries and sweet-seeming oak,

this is an easygoing, rather light-colored, cheery and syrupy Cabernet. It’s not very tannic, is soft in texture and almost sweet on the finish. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13% Price: $7

84 Entwine 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Califor-nia). Made in a light style compared to most

Cabernets, this has fresh strawberry aromas, a soft texture and light raspberry flavors. Without the usual body and richness of Cabernet it drinks more like a refreshing rose, and will be best chilled. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

84 Schweiger 2009 Estate Bottled Cabernet Sauvignon (Spring Mountain). Big tannins

dominate this dry, brushy expression of Cabernet Sauvignon with 5% Merlot that is austere in fruit. —V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $65

83 Charles Krug 2011 Yountville Cabernet Sau-vignon (Napa Valley). This wine is a mix of

85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot and 5% Merlot that is tight, tannic and a tad green. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $30

83 Happy Camper 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). With a relatively light red color,

sweet and jammy aromas, and fresh strawberry and red cherry flavors, this is a light and approachable red wine that might be good with a bit of chilling. It’s medium in body and easygoing in texture. —J.G. abv: 13% Price: $9

82 Rutherford Ranch 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Made from a majority of Cab-

ernet Sauvignon this wine also contains 10% Mer-lot and 1% Malbec. The combination shows thin on the palate and lacking somewhat in fruit. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

82 Terroir Napa Valley 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). There’s a stewy quality to the

rich fruit in this Cabernet, rounded out somewhat by 11% Merlot and 9% Petit Verdot. Color is dark purple and the aromas rustic. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $26

MALBEC

95 Hess Collection 2012 Small Block Series Mal-bec (Mount Veeder). For full review see page

3. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.2% Price: $50

94 Devil Proof 2012 Farrow Ranch Malbec (Al-exander Valley). For full review see page 3.


92 Krutz 2010 Krupp Vineyard Malbec (Napa Valley). There’s meaty leather and sizable

tannin in this mountain-grown Malbec, from an At-las Peak vineyard sought after for many types of red grapes. Time in bottle has served it well, the bolder aspects and jammy blackberry and blueberry fruit softened by balanced acidity. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $55

92 Spann Vineyards 2011 Five Barrels Malbec (Sonoma County). Black pepper and juicy

blue fruit are the highlights of this Malbec, softened further by the addition of 20% Merlot. The com-bination works in magical ways, providing rounded body texture around a core of ripe, lovely fruit and spice. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

91 Keating 2011 Malbec (Rockpile). There’s con-siderable earthiness to the nose of this Mal-

bec, grown in Zin-heavy Rockpile. Soft and wrapped in cinnamon spice, its sizable tannins are offset by just enough acidity to keep the wine mouthwatering and mellowed. —V.B. abv: 13.4% Price: $42

90 J. Rickards 2011 Zanzi Curve Vines Malbec (Alexander Valley). High-toned anise and

lavender mark this estate-grown wine aromatically, followed by balanced layers of blue fruit and leath-er. A bite of peppery spice on the finish leaves one wanting more. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $28

87 J. Rickards 2012 Zanzi Curve Vines Malbec (Al-exander Valley). Earthy and soft, this Malbec

leans rustic in brambly, wild blackberry and meaty leather, with a mouthful of ripeness on the finish. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $28

MERLOT

90 Blackjack 2010 Billy Goat Hill Merlot (Santa Barbara County). Pungent tobacco, sage and

grape juice aromas lead the nose on this tasty wine. The tannins are well dispersed on the palate, and the flavors balance between dark purple fruits and herbals of licorice and crushed marjoram. —M.K. abv: 14.8% Price: $45

87 Midnight Cellars 2010 Estate Merlot (Paso Robles). Strong cedar and cooked cherries

alongside purple flowers and fresh tobacco charac-terize the nose of this wine from the expected-to-be-approved Willow Creek district. The tannins are very pronounced but not dominant, revealing san-guine flavors of iron and bloody game. —M.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $36

87 Pomar Junction 2011 Estate Merlot (Paso Robles). Cigar ash, black cherries and black

licorice comprise the nose of this wine from a long-time growing family in the expected-to-be-approved El Pomar District. It’s a lighter bodied, playful take

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on the grape, like grape punch with an herbal twist, great for drinking today. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $34

86 Robert Hall 2012 Merlot (Paso Robles). Blueberry, leather and creosote swirl to-

gether on the nose. The fruit flavors are very dark, touching on blueberry, and the tannins are strong. There is a lifting bit of spearmint on the finish, and a vanilla aftertaste. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

SYRAH

94 Foxen 2012 Williamson-Dore Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley). Ripe boysenberry, root beer

and mocha latte aromas make for a dynamic, deli-cious nose on this bottling from Foxen’s seven-acre estate vineyard. The flavors range from black pepper and roasted meats to dried thyme, sagebrush and black licorice, all set against emerging tannins and a long, lingering finish. —M.K. abv: 14.7% Price: $48

94 Stolpman 2012 Estate Syrah (Ballard Can-yon). Coming from one of Ballard Canyon’s

premiere vineyards, this offers aromas of black cherry, wet black loam and morning dew on sage. The mouthfeel is all silk, and flavors are savory, with elderberries, crushed sage and wild mint. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $30

93 Big Basin 2011 Rattlesnake Rock Syrah (San-ta Cruz Mountains). Prevalent black pepper

scents swirl alluringly with leather, air-dried meats, tea and blackberry fruit on the nose. It’s light, vi-brant and peppery on the palate as well, making it a refreshing wine that also delivers a hefty, satisfying flavor profile. —M.K. abv: 13.2% Price: $55

93 Chasseur 2012 Syrah (Russian River Valley). Tannic on the entry, this wine evolves softly

into balanced overtones of leather and cherry, rep-resenting the more restrained and elegant side of Syrah that’s possible in cooler pockets of the Rus-sian River Valley when the grapes are put in good hands. A peppery bite to the finish adds intrigue. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $40

93 Heintz 2012 Syrah (Sonoma Coast). From the Heintz Vineyard, well-known for Char-

donnay and Pinot Noir, comes this compelling Syr-ah. A burst of toasted oak and dry tannins upon en-try develops slowly into a taste of ripe, black fruit, black olives and tar. Surrounded by a soft palate the wine is also marked by a starkness of black pepper and hint of lavender. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $46

93 Margerum 2012 Colson Canyon Vineyard Syr-ah (Santa Barbara County). Ripe black cher-

ries get aromatic lift from sagebrush and thyme on

this wine that Doug Margerum makes from the fruit of his friend, Reo Reiswig. There is an immediate zing of acidity, with red and purple fruit flavors that bounce between raspberry and blueberry while also picking up mocha, herbs and leather along the way. A very dynamic wine. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $36

93 Wrath 2012 Ex Anima Syrah (Monterey). For full review see page 6. Editors’ Choice.

abv: 14.4% Price: $25

92 Alta Colina 2011 Toasted Slope Syrah (Paso Robles). Pleasantly dank aromas of smol-

dering pine needles, leather and gamy meats hit the nose on this 2% Viognier coferment. Flavors are reminiscent of roasted wild boar, with dark choc-olate, creosote and beef crust, presented against grippy, not well measured tannins. —M.K. abv: 15% Price: $42

92 Big Basin 2011 Coastview Vineyard Syrah (Monterey County). Bradley Brown’s Syrah

magic shines again on this wine from a vineyard planted 2,300 feet over the eastside of the Salinas Valley. The wine is redolent on the nose, with black pepper, crushed violet and salted pork. It pulls a tannic punch to the mouth once sipped, with black-berry, leather, heavy-duty tar and persistent pep-per. Decant for maximum flavor extraction. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $48

92 Foxen 2012 Toasted Rope Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley). Billy Wathen and Dick Dore pick this

cofermented blend of 85% Syrah and 15% Viognier together on the same day. The result is very savory, with resinous herbs and root beer on the nose. Once sipped, a rainbow of dark flavors emerges: chopped Italian herbs, creosote, black olive, fennel, soy and orange pith, reminiscent of a North African tagine. —M.K. abv: 13.7% Price: $44

92 Law Estate WInes 2011 Intrepid Syrah (Paso Robles). Winemaker Scott Hawley deliv-

ers deep and dark aromas of blueberry and mint against a backdrop of bacon fat and barrel smoke. The mouthfeel is rich and lush, with more blueber-ry plus anise, black licorice and a canvas of minty herbs that also reveal a touch of bitterness. —M.K. abv: 16.2% Price: $65

92 Zaca Mesa 2010 Estate Grown and Bottled Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley). For full review


91 Archium 2012 Faction Syrah (Santa Ynez Val-ley). The artistically minded, Rhône-focused

brand from winemakers Ian Sergy and Zach Jarosz delivers this wine with aromas of black tea, sage and smashed elderberries. Favors move from raspberry iced tea to mocha and espresso, all wrapped in deli-

cate but quite present tannins. Drink 2017–2022. Cellar Selection. —M.K. abv: 14.8% Price: $40

91 Cottonwood Canyon 2009 Patience Syrah (Santa Maria Valley). Cottonwood Canyon

specializes in Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but they also have three acres of Syrah in their Santa Maria vineyard. The result in this bottling offers aromas blending red fruit with minty herbs, like a cherry cough drop. The wine is fairly lean on the mouth, representative of a cooler-climate expression of the grape, with oregano, sour cherry, cranberry and chalky minerality. The finish is reminiscent of crème brûlée. —M.K. abv: 13.3% Price: $68

91 Harrison Clarke 2010 Cuvee Charlotte Syrah (Ballard Canyon). From one of the few estate

properties in this new appellation comes anise-flecked aromas of blackberry puff pastry, mixing up ripe fruit with buttery oak. This is a very approach-able Syrah, with dark fruits and pepper spice that will appeal widely, showing why Ballard Canyon may be the variety’s best hope for popular accep-tance. —M.K. abv: 15.2% Price: $55

91 Margerum 2012 Purisima Mountain Vineyard Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley). Retailer-turned-

winemaker Doug Margerum drops aromas of boy-senberry-cherry pie with peppercorn crust on this wine, which slightly predates the Ballard Canyon appellation creation. The flavors are down the mid-dle, with ripe elderberries, Italian herbs and hops providing an intriguing, heady mix. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $36

91 Mira 2010 Hyde Vineyard Syrah (Napa Valley). Rich and thick in leathery blueberry, this

Syrah from the great Carneros-based Hyde Vine-yard is a study in full-bodied black licorice and dark chocolate caramel. Though bigger in style, it retains acidity and balance. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $48

91 Muscardini 2011 Unti Vineyards Syrah (Dry Creek Valley). For full review see page 9. Cel-

lar Selection. abv: 12.8% Price: $38

91 Ram’s Gate 2011 Parmalee-Hill Vineyard Syrah (Sonoma Coast). A special spot for Syrah,

Parmalee-Hill gets plenty of coastal fog and cool-ness, providing this gamy, silky 100% varietal wine with structure and buoyant acidity around a bal-anced weight of tar, black olive and dark cherry. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $62

91 Zaca Mesa 2010 Black Bear Block Estate Grown and Bottled Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley).

Coming from the first block of Syrah ever planted in Santa Barbara County, this offers delicate aromas of cedar, leather and sour cherry. It tends toward the

BUYINGGUIDE


more sour end of the varietal’s spectrum, perhaps due to the vine age, with plum skins, fig, menthol and root beer flavors. —M.K. abv: 13% Price: $60

90 B Cellars 2011 Caldwell’s Kreuze Canyon Syr-ah (Napa Valley). This high-octane 100%

Syrah aged in 50% new French oak is intensely ripe yet interesting in its leathery texture and gamy traits. Black fruit dominates, from blackberry to black plum, a dose of black pepper and dark choco-late in there for good, decadent measure. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $53

90 Campesino 2012 Sangiacomo Old Lakeville Highway Syrah (Sonoma Coast). From a

cool-climate site inspired by the Northern Rhône, this tiny-production Syrah is classically swimming in white pepper spice and crushed herb, the fruit a bright raspberry accented by smoky meat. With firm tannins and just a touch of oak, it offers enough heft and structure to pair well at the table. —V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $35

90 Cornerstone 2012 Stepping Stone Syrah (Napa Valley). From Atlas Peak grapes, this

barrel-influenced, full-bodied Syrah is inky black and thick in texture, with a meaty character ac-cented by hints of dried herb and anise. Fruit-wise, expect dark cherry and blueberry. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $35

90 Field Stone 2012 Marion’s Block Syrah (Al-exander Valley). This 100% Syrah is abun-

dant in juicy blue and black fruit, with concentrated layers of meat and leather wrapped around its in-tense core. Ready to enjoy now, it’s ripe yet bal-anced. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

90 Harrison Clarke 2010 Eve e Marie (Ballard Canyon). Smoked blueberry sauce and

plum peel tartness characterize the nose of this 75% Syrah and 25% Grenache from the new Santa Barbara County appellation. It’s straightforward and nicely balanced on the palate, with black cur-rants and dried sage. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

90 Indigené 2009 Paranthesis Syrah (Carmel Valley). Deep, earthy aromas of roasted

beet, rhubarb pie, red clay, and ginger bread con-sume the nose on this wine from Paso Robles-based Raymond Smith, who entered the wine business via mobile bottling lines. It’s silky on the palate with elegantly laced flavors of ripe plum and mushroom, though the finish is a tad rustic and alcoholic. Serve with beef stew or oak-grilled steak. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $28

89 Lucky Dogg 2013 Verna’s Vineyard Clone 383 Reserve Syrah (Santa Barbara County). With

aromas of cigar ash, sawdust and horse stable, the barnyard descriptor gets a new definition on this wine from Brent Melville, whose family owned this

vineyard until selling it in 2013. The earthy funk persists on the palate before rounding out toward olive and sour fruit flavors. A very interesting wine, but not for fans of traditionally ripe Syrahs. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $42

89 Ram’s Gate 2010 Durell Vineyard Syrah (So-noma Coast). This wine is substantially

sized, a 100% Syrah from a significant coastal vine-yard that offers high-octane, soft, juicy black fruit and chocolate around toasty oak. This is a wine meant for hearty meals by the fire. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $52

89 Rusack 2012 Ballard Canyon Estate Reserve Syrah (Ballard Canyon). Oak aromas lead

the nose on this wine from one of the new appella-tion’s longest landowners, with smoke and vanilla wrapped around blackberry fruit. Barrel-related tannins also feature prominently on the palate, though deep purple fruit and hot tar make appear-ances as well. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $36

88 Ram’s Gate 2012 Syrah (Sonoma Coast). This chewy, dense and dark Syrah softly in-

trigues with black fruit and gamy notes. Given 20 months in new and used French oak, it’s structured and ageable through 2020, a substantial wine with a sense of elegance around the edges. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $40

88 Rusack 2012 Ballard Canyon Estate Syrah (Santa Barbara County). Dark red fruit and

crushed herb scents are served up against a wood backbone in this wine from Santa Barbara’s new-est appellation. It’s saucy with red fruits and smoky on the palate, a very solid, straightforward bottling. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $27

87 Wellington 2009 Englandcrest Syrah (So-noma Valley). Dark and lush in plum and lic-

orice, this is soft and brooding, marked by a strong element of smoky, peppery meat. —V.B. abv: 15.2% Price: $20

83 Muscardini 2011 Gracie Creek Vineyards Syrah (Sonoma Valley). Layers of mint and earth

are slightly out of proportion in this leathery wine, the finish leaving a somewhat sour taste. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $38

GRENACHE

93 Law Estate WInes 2011 The Nines Grenache (Paso Robles). Intoxicatingly elegant aro-

mas of cinnamon and baking spices laced with sugared plums and ripe cherries greet the nose on this heavy-duty take on the grape. The palate’s first impression is of grippy tannins, with flavors of chocolate-covered cherries, espresso, leather and

sandalwood running into a long finish. It is a tad boozy. —M.K. abv: 16.1% Price: $85

92 Barton 2011 Mr. Jones Grenache (Paso Ro-bles). Joe Barton, who’s made Grey Wolf

wines since 1994, launched this brand inspired by pop songs in 2011. This Counting Crows ode deliv-ers aromas of raspberry-laced black tea, clove and cardamom. It’s soft and inviting on the palate, with anise, mocha and blackberry flavors that finish with a wash of tobacco. It was still quite tight after hours of being opened, perhaps due to the 35% whole cluster maceration. Drink 2017–2023. Cellar Selec-tion. —M.K. abv: 15.5% Price: $36

91 Archium 2012 Haven Grenache (Santa Ynez Valley). Candied cherry, cola, wild mint and

anise swirl into a layered nose on this wine by a duo of relatively new winemakers, Ian Sergy and Zach Jarosz. Light coffee, clove-spiced berry juice and cinnamon-cherry flavors are on the heavily brown-spiced palate. —M.K. abv: 14.3% Price: $42

91 Crux 2012 Grenache (Russian River Valley). This wine also includes 10% Syrah and 10%

Mourvèdre and is treated similarly to the produc-er’s larger-production GSM blend. With a shock of menthol on the nose, it veers lean and high in acid-ity on the palate, a taste of wild strawberry pleas-antly consistent around suggestions of earthy game. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $45

91 Stolpman 2012 Grenache (Ballard Canyon). Syrah is the star of this new appellation, but

Grernache does mighty fine too, in this case offering aromas of strawberry reduction sauce, black cloves and cardamom. The palate is heavily laced with crushed dark spices, ripe red fruits, strong tannins and mouthwatering acidity. Waiting until 2016–2017 might make this wine even better. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $34

88 Standing Sun 2011 Live Grenache (Santa Barbara County). Lime-laced cherry, cran-

berry, damp herb and dried violet greet the nose on this bottling, which explores a more sour side of this grape. The flavors range from licorice and chopped olive to cranberry and bitter plum skin. —M.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $20

ZINFANDEL/PRIMITIVO

93 Peachy Canyon 2012 Bailey Zinfandel (Paso Robles). This is a unique and exciting take

on California’s historic grape from one of the re-gion’s pioneering wineries. Aromas recall sour cranberry, orange peel, strawberry and sagebrush. It’s savory and herbal on the palate, with baking and

WINEMAG.COM | 43

Indian spices of cardamom and chai as well as mo-cha. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $38

92 Castoro Cellars 2012 Zinfusion Estate Grown Reserve Zinfandel (Paso Robles). Though

blackberry sauce wafts down the middle of the nose, this wine picks up more serious gunmetal and pine aromas as well. Though a bit tight once sipped, the wine’s Italian herbs and tar elements impress already and will continue to emerge. Drink 2016–2019. Cellar Selection. —M.K. abv: 15% Price: $24

92 Dashe Cellars 2012 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). A blend of five vineyards, some of

which go into single-vineyard designates, this is a well made, structured wine, offering layers of black cherry and subtle earth around soft, velvety tan-nins. The finish highlights black pepper spice with dark chocolate chaser. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $26

92 Midnight Cellars 2011 Estate Zinfandel (Paso Robles). For full review see page 7.

abv: 16.7% Price: $39

92 Zenaida Cellars 2012 Zinfandel (Paso Ro-bles). The nose on this wine from veteran

vintner Eric Ogorsolka is reminiscent of an old-time closet, with pipe smoke, cedar and plum perfume. It’s quite woody and elegant on the palate, with well-integrated fruit, spice and herb characters suggesting savory plum jelly and prune reduction sauce. —M.K. abv: 15.1% Price: $32

91 Kokomo 2012 Pauline’s Vineyard Winemaker’s Reserve Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). Smoky

aromas give this wine allure, its layers of flavor soft and flowery, accented by red berry fruit. On the elegant spectrum of the variety, the wine is fairly subtle, with an evolving cinnamon spiciness to the finish. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $32

91 Ridge 2012 East Bench Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). For full review see page 9.

abv: 14.9% Price: $28

90 Ironstone 2012 Reserve Old Vine Zinfandel (Lodi). For full review see page 11.

abv: 14.5% Price: $20

90 Pomar Junction 2012 Estate Zinfandel (Paso Robles). The nose is both luscious with

cherry pie and melting vanilla ice cream yet herbally enhanced with roasting pine wood. Similar flavors carry the easily likable yet through-provoking pal-ate, which is ripe and well oaked. —M.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $34

90 Rancho Zabaco 2012 Sonoma Heritage Vines Zinfandel (Sonoma County). This wine

delivers on richness of flavor without being over-

whelming or overdone. Refined in soft tannins and a core of expressive, juicy blue and black berry fruit, it is seductive and smoky on the finish, sourced mainly from vineyards in the Dry Creek Valley. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 15.3% Price: $15

90 Ridge 2012 Three Valleys Zinfandel (So-noma County). For full review see page 12.

abv: 14.2% Price: $26

89 Adelaida 2012 Michael’s Vineyard Estate Zin-fandel (Paso Robles). Aromas of anise-laced

blackberry candies emerge from this easy-drinking wine. Light and airy on the palate for such a rich-looking wine, it’s redolent with flavors of cherries and fennel with a decent tannic backbone. —M.K. abv: 15.7% Price: $36

89 McCay Cellars 2011 Trulux Zinfandel (Lodi). This is a monster Zin, and a very good one.

It has an inky black color tinged with red, strong dried-fruit flavors like fig, prune and dried cherry. Along with a smoky, roasted quality on the palate, it has sandy tannins with lots of grip. Powerful and almost sweet. —J.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $32

89 Sierra Starr 2010 Phil’s Selection Zinfandel (Sierra Foothills). An exotic, cedar and eu-

calyptus aroma blends seamlessly into lavish sun-kissed boysenberry and strawberry flavors. It’s a big wine, full-bodied, firmly tannic, giving an oak-aged texture and spicy finish, too. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

89 Uphill Vineyards 2010 Primitivo (Amador County). This is the strong, silent type, not

a showy wine but one that will drink well with a dinner full of grilled and roasted meats and vegeta-bles. It feels well structured with tannins and acid-ity, and tastes restrained in flavor, with subtle cassis and blueberry notes. —J.G. abv: 13.4% Price: $24

89 Woodenhead 2011 Guido Venturi Vineyard Zinfandel (Mendocino County). Very bright

fruit aromas like fresh strawberries make this hearty wine especially appetizing. Firm, almost chewy tan-nins and vibrant acidity are strong enough to sup-port the rich fruit flavors and bring the wine a great balance. —J.G. abv: 14% Price: $34

88 Kokomo 2012 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). A core of bright red cherry fruit, blackberry

and licorice dance around soft, medium-bodied lay-ers of cocoa and spice. The winery’s larger produc-tion Zinfandel (although still under 1,500 cases), this provides a fantastic entry into both the winery and Dry Creek Valley Zin. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $28

87 Ancient Peaks 2012 Zinfandel (Paso Robles). Tobacco and boysenberry scents make for a

pleasing if not complex nose on this wine from the Santa Margarita Ranch area on the southern part of the appellation. There are a lot of tannins, with expected flavors of blackberry and cedar. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $17

87 Criss Cross 2012 Old Vine Zinfandel (Lodi). Tasty, generous and easy to enjoy, this full-

bodied Zin smells like blackberries and tastes like strawberry jam. It gains a little sweet spiciness from oak and glides through the finish. —J.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $20

87 Oakville Winery 2012 Estate Grown and Pro-duced Zinfandel (Oakville). Smoke, tobacco

and tar are most prominent in this weighty wine that’s soft in big blackberry flavor and pungent earth. Velvety on the palate, it finishes full and ripe, a perfect companion to barbecue or a sizable cigar. —V.B. abv: 15.4% Price: $25

87 Robert Hall 2012 Zinfandel (Paso Robles). Rich, ripe red cherry and blackberry fruits

mix with black earth on the nose. The tannins and acidity are quite present on the palate, where fla-vors of strawberry leather dissipate quickly. It’s bet-ter than overly jammy Zins, but may be too austere. —M.K. abv: 14.7% Price: $18

87 Rodney Strong 2012 Knotty Vines Zinfandel (Northern Sonoma). From estate vineyards

in Russian River, Alexander and Dry Creek valleys, this Zin is fruity and smoky in equal measure. The fruit is slightly jammy in blackberry fruit, followed by toasty oak and pepper spice. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $25

87 Rosa d’Oro 2012 Primitivo (Clear Lake). Zin-fandel by another name, this appealing wine

has cola and cherry aromas, plus snappy cherry-candy and sweet prune flavors. It’s full-bodied and has lively acidity, a silky texture and lingering fin-ish. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $24

86 David Clinton 2011 Unti Vineyard Old Vine Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). From a new,

small producer devoted to 100% Zinfandel, this soft, grippy wine offers a hint of menthol on the nose and muted aromatics. The finish is ripe though tempered by good acidity. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $29

86 Ironstone 2010 Reserve Rous Old Vine Zin-fandel (Lodi). A distinct late-harvest char-

acter pervades this full-bodied Zin, which has very ripe aromas of raisins and prunes, and bold, dried-fruit flavors, too. The texture is smooth and the wine is soft and not very tannic. —J.G. abv: 15.35% Price: $30

86 Perry Creek 2012 ZinMan Zinfandel (El Do-rado). This tastes full-bore, full-bodied and

BUYINGGUIDE


extra ripe: one of those monster Zins that needs plenty of animal protein, preferably cooked over a wood fire, to match the intensity. The aromas and flavors are raisiny, the high alcohol and tannins are powerful, and the finish carries heat. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 15.4% Price: $11

85 Bruliam 2012 Zinfandel (Rockpile). Light and linear, this Zin offers muted red fruit

and spice, with a modest finish. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $38

85 McCay Cellars 2011 Equity Zinfandel (Lodi). Not your average Zinfandel, this one could

almost be a Syrah with all its peppery, meaty and smoky aromas and flavors. They are wild and dif-ferent but puzzling. The wine is full-bodied, tannic and almost thick in texture. —J.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $32

85 McCay Cellars 2011 Faith Lot 13 Zinfandel (Lodi). A dense, rich, chocolaty flavor and

smooth, thick texture make this old-school Zinfan-del very tempting despite an earthy, leathery vein of flavor that lasts on the finish. —J.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $32

85 McCay Cellars 2011 Jupiter Zinfandel (Lodi). This big and brawny wine is definitely dif-

ferent, smelling sun-baked and tasting of cherry and menthol.There is a sawdust quality in the nose, and a rowdy texture full of tannin and alcohol. —J.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $28

84 Rubus 2012 Old Vine Zinfandel (Lodi). This smells earthy and berrylike and tastes like

fresh carrots. It feels slightly sweet, coating the mouth with sweet-sour flavors. It’s soft in tannins but full-bodied. —J.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $19

PETITE SIRAH

93 Helwig 2012 Petite Sirah (Shenandoah Val-ley). Very impressive color, fruit concentra-

tion and tannic structure add up to an outstanding Petite Sirah. What’s compelling is that this full-bodied wine seems to get its character purely from the concentrated and tannin-laden grapes rather than from new oak barrels or add-ins. This needs time in a cool cellar to show all its potential com-plexity. Best from 2016–2022. —J.G. abv: 15.6% Price: $35

92 Michael David 2012 Earthquake Petite Sirah (Lodi). For full review see page 6.

abv: 15% Price: $26

92 Vina Robles 2011 Estate Petite Sirah (Paso Robles). For full review see page 8.

abv: 14.5% Price: $29

91 Brecon Estate 2012 Petit Sirah (Monterey County). For full review see page 8.

abv: 14.5% Price: $38

91 Criss Cross 2013 Petite Sirah (Clarksburg). For full review see page 8. Editors’ Choice.

abv: 13.9% Price: $20

91 HandCraft 2012 Petite Sirah (California). For full review see page 13. Best Buy.

abv: 14.5% Price: $13

90 Morse 2009 Estate Petite Sirah (Amador County). A delicious personality of choc-

olate-covered cherry and cocoa powder comes out right away in the aroma of this dense and deeply colored wine, and stays with it through the finish. It’s full-bodied, nicely tannic, rich in fruit and spicy oak flavors, but not too too heavy. It should improve through 2019. —J.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $24

89 McManis 2013 Petite Sirah (California). For full review see page 14. Best Buy.

abv: 13.5% Price: $11

89 Vina Robles 2011 Creston Valley Vineyard Pe-tite Sirah (Paso Robles). A good look at the

potential of the soon-to-be official Creston appella-tion, this opaque wine is scented with pickled cher-ries, black tea and sour herbal aromas. Balsamic vinegar leads the palate, which is showing a bit of age, so drink now. —M.K. abv: 14.6% Price: $44

89 Winery by the Creek 2012 Reserve Avila Vine-yard Petite Sirah (Fair Play). That friendly,

familiar, cedar and cinnamon aroma that comes from oak barrels jumps out of the glass when sip-ping this full-bodied and deep-colored wine. It has gripping tannins that dry the mouth but will work well with pork, beef and lamb. And it blends in enough ripe fruit flavor for good balance. Best now through 2018. —J.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $40

87 Ironstone 2012 Petite Sirah (Lodi). This wine is very smooth and easygoing for this usu-

ally tannic grape variety. Still it has a rather deep color, attractive, fresh blackberry aromas, lots of juicy berry flavors, and moderate tannins to give it a bit of heft. It is medium-bodied and ready to drink. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

SANGIOVESE

91 La Chertosa 2012 Reserve Sangiovese (So-noma Valley). Sonoma Valley stalwart Sam

Sebastiani returns to the winemaking fold with this small-production Sangiovese. A juicy study in ro-bust, powerful tannins and fresh plum, it has a trace of anise on the back of the palate. Blended with 8% Petite Sirah and 4% Malbec, it spent a year in older

French oak barrels and is a delicious California ver-sion of the Italian classic. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $35

90 Muscardini 2011 Cypress Ranch Sangiovese (Napa County). For full review see page 12.

Cellar Selection. abv: 14.7% Price: $36

87 Muscardini 2010 Monte Rosso Vineyard San-giovese (Sonoma Valley). The hearty red

wine from a historic, well-known vineyard exhibits tart dried-cherry notes around a deeper, darker core of tea and tobacco, the finish rich in savory herbs. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

87 Pedroncelli 2012 Alto Vineyard Sangiovese (Dry Creek Valley). This affordable Cal-Ital-

ian wine from a good vintage year dances in tart red cherry and cranberry atop dense tannins and lean-ings of chocolate and coffee. A rare find in the appel-lation, it’s worth a try. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $16

RED BLENDS

93 Big Basin 2011 Grizzly G-S-M (Monterey-San-ta Cruz). Black and white pepper splash all

over the aromas of the otherwise cherry meringue-driven nose of this blend of 39% Grenache, 33% Syrah, 26% Mourvèdre and 2% Viognier. It’s light and airy on the palate, blending fresh strawberry fruit with a cornucopia of peppercorns. It provides a great example of how a fun, lively wine can be sa-vorily serious as well. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $48

93 Big Basin 2012 Homestead (California). Coming from Monterey and Santa Cruz

vineyards, this blend of 34% Grenache, 23% Syrah, 18% Mourvèdre, 21% Carignane and 4% Cabernet Sauvignon features notes of plum jam, sagebrush and root beer. It jumps off the palate with bright acidity and grippy tannins, delivering ripe berry fruit and chili pepper spices, enlivening more sens-es than just tastebuds. —M.K. abv: 14% Price: $36

93 Big Basin 2012 Paderewski Vineyard G-S-M (Paso Robles). This is one of the winery’s

last takes on this vineyard, as they move their focus to Santa Cruz and Monterey counties. The nose is blackberry liqueur lifted with chopped black sage, fennel stalk and tobacco leaf. Flavors run from dark red fruit to black spices to tartness on the finish, like a balsamic reduction sauce. —M.K. abv: 15% Price: $55

93 Le Vigne 2011 Âme de la Vigne (Paso Robles). For full review see page 5.

abv: 14.7% Price: $39

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93 ONX 2012 Reckoning (Paso Robles). For full review see page 5. Editors’ Choice.

abv: 15.6% Price: $45

92 ONX 2012 Crux (Paso Robles). For full review see page 7.

abv: 15.2% Price: $45

92 ONX 2012 Mad Crush (Paso Robles). For full review see page 7.

abv: 14.7% Price: $45

92 Ridge 2012 Geyserville (Alexander Valley). Bold flavors and a graceful mouthfeel come

together in this classic, complex and well-balanced red, made from 71% Zinfandel with other tradi-tional California varieties. The blackberry, sage and ever-so-slightly earthy aromas continue through the flavors, where they interlace with firm tannins and supportive acidity. This could easily improve through 2019. Cellar Selection. —J.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $38

92 Robert Hall 2012 Meritage (Paso Robles). For full review see page 7.

abv: 14.5% Price: $40

92 Workman Ayer 2012 De Facto (Central Coast). The two-family winery produces a

lovely and layered wine, with aromas of blueberry extract, wet black tobacco, cinnamon roll, smoked oak and aromatic herbs. Purple flowers of violet and lavender come alive on the palate, with licorice in the midpalate and tartness on the finish. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $36

91 Archium 2012 Dissident (Santa Ynez Valley). The dark fruits of blackberry and blueberry

meet up with the greener aromas of damp pine tree undergrowth and a squeeze of citrus on this blend of 52% Syrah and 48% Grenache. The light pur-ple fruits on the palate mesh well with all sorts of herbs, including thyme, oregano and even rosemary. —M.K. abv: 14.6% Price: $34

91 Black Ridge 2010 San Andreas Red (Santa Cruz Mountains). Highly intriguing aromas

of forest floor, damp pine trees and blackberry re-duction sauce power the nose on this blend of 59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Cabernet Franc, 10% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot and 6% Malbec. The fla-vors are quite broad and welcoming, with purple and blue fruits, but also herbs of oregano and thyme. It’s tasty but not showy, a wine that’s happy in its own skin. —M.K. abv: 14.8% Price: $49

91 Crux 2012 G-S-M (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 8.

abv: 14.3% Price: $42

91 Derby 2010 Fifteen 10 Red (Paso Robles). Named for the vineyard’s address on Live

Oak Road, this tasty blend holds 39% Syrah, 28%

Grenache, 19% Counoise and 14% Mourvèdre. It delivers aromas of scarlet red rose petals, crushed clove and cherry pie. The fruit flavors are so deep they border on blueberry, set against a tannic back-bone, yet proving quite light and drinkable. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

91 Derby 2011 Implico (Paso Robles). A wildly complicated nose introduces this blend of

46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 13% Petit Verdot, 9% Malbec and 5% Cabernet Franc, with lavender, violet, licorice and elderberry running into more astringent woodworm. The flavors are all purple fruit and cigar box, with wisps of pipe smoke as well. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $32

91 Joullian 2010 Jonquille (Carmel Valley). A pleasant minty character, somewhere be-

tween purple Thai basil and toothpaste, emerges from this 60% Zinfandel and 40% Syrah blend, along with strawberry pie aromas. It’s still tightly wound and tart on the palate, with hints of red and black licorice that will emerge over time. —M.K. abv: 13% Price: $26

91 J. Lohr 2010 Cuvée PAU (Paso Robles). This Paulliac-style blend of mostly Cabernet Sau-

vignon and Merlot presents bright red fruit on the nose alongside black licorice and traditional cigar box scents. The flavors are dominated by red cher-ries with a touch of anise, sprig of thyme and pleas-ingly brisk finish. —M.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $50

91 Peachy Canyon 2011 Para Siempre (Paso Robles). The nose on this blend is inviting,

somewhere between hot blackberry pie and coffee-crusted beef roast. Those elements persist on the soft palate as well, which is not overly complicated but quite nice, with blueberry and cocoa emerging as well. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $55

91 Redwood Ridge Estate 2013 Red (Santa Cruz Mountains). The winery is owned by Candice

Wozniak, ex-wife of Apple co-founder Steve Woz-niak. This nontraditional blend of Cabernet Sau-vignon and Pinot Noir impresses, with aromas of ripe berries, wildfire and smoked herbs. The smoky palate picks up licorice, tobacco, cedar, asphalt and acai fruit, altogether reminiscent of a blueberry crusted pork roast. —M.K. abv: 13% Price: $25

90 Calluna 2011 Calluna Vineyards Cuvée (Chalk Hill). Robust in dry tannins and burly black

cherry and berry fruit, this blend of 40% Merlot with smaller percentages of Cabernet Franc, Cab-ernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Malbec is from 100% estate-grown grapes, a well-managed blend of strength and flavor that’ll age through 2020. Cel-lar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $33

90 Lafond 2010 Lafond Vineyard Syrah- Grenache (Sta. Rita Hills). This 60% Syrah,

40% Grenache split by winemaker Bruce McGuire offers red currants, black tobacco and cedar on the nose. The blend is a rarity for the Pinot-focused re-gion, so take advantage of the boysenberry-like fla-vors that mix the tart and ripe elements, with a bit of black licorice for heft. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

90 Longboard 2012 Maverick’s Red Blend (So-noma County). Inspired by the winemaker’s

longstanding love of surfing, Maverick’s blends 65% Cabernet Sauvignon with 26% Malbec and 9% Merlot. Much of the fruit comes from Alexan-der Valley. Exotic in nougat and currant, the Mal-bec adds depth and length, providing a burst of soft blueberry and lavender with a subtle twist of mint. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $55

90 Saint Gregory 2012 Pinotrois (Mendocino County). Delicious fruit flavors and a tangy

texture give plenty of oomph and liveliness. A core of ripe cherry and tea leaf flavors is shaded by cinnamon and clove, backed by light tannins and medium-full body. A rare blend of Pinotage, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

90 Tablas Creek 2012 Cotes de Tablas Red (Paso Robles). As always, the historic winery pro-

duces a nuanced, restrained style, with a subdued nose of berries and balsamic reduction. It’s light and bright on the palate, with chicory and woody tones and medium-ripe cherry fruit, a perfect part-ner to varied foods. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

90 Viader 2011 Red (Napa Valley). For full re-view see page 12.

abv: 14.5% Price: $150

89 J. Lohr 2010 Cuvée POM (Paso Robles). The nose on the winery’s annual Pomerol-fo-

cused blend of mostly Cabernet Franc and Merlot remains tightly wound, with purple fruit and tobac-co just barely poking out. It’s richly textured on the palate but the dark fruit flavors remain elegantly re-strained throughout the sipping experience. —M.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $50

89 Lloyd of Calcareous 2011 Hook Shot (Paso Robles). Grape Jolly Rancher candies lead

the nose on this ripe blend of 37% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Franc, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Mal-bec and 5% Petit Verdot. Aromas of mocha, seared blackberries and chopped mint arrive as well. Quite approachable now, the flavors range from grape juice and dill to blueberry and black spice. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $50

89 Robert Hall 2013 Cuvée de Robles Red Wine (Paso Robles). For full review see page 12.

abv: 14.5% Price: $20

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88 Dunning Vineyards 2011 Estate Bottled Mer-itage (Paso Robles). Hard grape candies

lead the nose alongside violet flowers and a sharper element of pencil shavings. The palate on this blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc jumps into slightly sour plum skins and holds throughout, with refreshing acidity and likable tannins. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $34

88 En Garde 2009 Adamus (Diamond Moun-tain). This mountain-grown blend com-

bines a majority of Cabernet Sauvignon with 25% Cabernet Franc, 12% Petit Verdot, 2% Malbec and 1% Merlot, all given two years in French oak, half of it new. Rich and generous in sweet red fruit, co-coa and a taste of tapenade, the tannins are soft and round. —V.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $78

88 Galante 2011 Rancho Galante Estate Bottled Red (Carmel Valley). Wood aromas of ce-

dar are expertly spliced with purple fruits on this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Petite Sirah and Merlot. A touch of greenness on the palate gives those deep purple fruits some depth, but the tan-nins are quite gripping, and should release more with time. Drink 2018 onward. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

88 ONX 2012 Brash (Paso Robles). This blend of 70% Zinfandel, 15% Petite Sirah, 10%

Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Syrah from the Tem-pleton Gap is scented with cherry candies, crushed rocks and black licorice. The flavors aren’t quite so bombastic, with blackberry and chalk. —M.K. abv: 15% Price: $45

88 Petrichor 2012 Les Trois Red (Sonoma County). From a small vineyard site above

the Russian River Valley planted to Alban-clone Gr-enache and two clones of Syrah, this blend of 54% Syrah and 46% Grenache is tightly wound in cran-berry and strawberry, unfiltered and given time in entirely neutral French oak. Made by Duncan Arnot Meyers of Arnot Roberts, it is bright in acidity and balanced throughout. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $48

87 Ancient Oak Cellars 2011 Sappho Berger Vine-yard (Sonoma Mountain). This Merlot-based

blend also contains Cabernet Sauvignon and Cab-ernet Franc and offers tastes of currant, spicy plum and tobacco around an oaky core. The rich, woody components are well-integrated on the palate and accented by mint and dried herb. —V.B. abv: 13.7% Price: $75

87 Pure Cru 2010 M. Coz Meritage (Napa Valley). A heady perfume of rich plum and red berry

liqueur opens into a world of softly textured flavors that follow suit. The majority is Cabernet Sauvi-gnon with sizable proportions of Cabernet Franc and Merlot. The finish is quite ripe. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $125

87 Spann Vineyards 2011 Mo Zin (California). This Zinfandel-based blend has sun-dried

tomato aromas, tart cherry flavors and a firm grip. Full-bodied and sturdy, it will have no problem cleansing the palate. Made from 60% Zinfandel, 20% Mourvèdre plus Syrah and Primitivo. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

87 Star Lane Vineyard 2010 Astral (Happy Can-yon of Santa Barbara). There’s an extreme

tightness to this top-end bottling from a premiere vineyard in this newish appellation. The nose is very lean with dark spice, blueberry and purple fruit, and the palate is extremely tannic, making any other flavors fall away. Only time will tell whether the wine is a success. —M.K. abv: 14.6% Price: $80

86 Galante 2012 Grand Champion (Carmel Val-ley). Beet juice, squeezed elderberry and

marjoram aromas cut through the reductive nose. Flavors pull in various directions, toward ripe pur-ple fruit, then toward tarry tannins. This will ben-efit from shelf time. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $75

84 Black Box 2013 Red Elegance (California). For full review see page 17. Best Buy.

abv: 13.8% Price: $25/3 L

OTHER REDS

91 Equinox 2009 Bartolo Petit Verdot (Santa Clara Valley). Black as night in the glass, this

wine—which come from the Mann Vineyard—is evened out with 13% Merlot and spent 30 months in American oak. Brown spice, black cherries and oregano power the palate along with notes of dried cherries and tobacco. It’s drinking quite nicely right now. —M.K. abv: 13% Price: $36

88 Castoro Cellars 2012 Whale Rock Vineyard Estate Grown Reserve Tempranillo (Paso

Robles). A strongly fragrant nose blends deeply purple fruit and even blueberries with violet and lavender crème brûlée. The tannins are chalky and prevalent, and the purple fruits persist amidst tan-talizing brown and black spice, combining into a long-lingering finish. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $24

88 Fort Ross 2010 Fort Ross Vineyard Pinotage (Sonoma Coast). From budwood brought

over from South Africa, the owners’ home country, this coastal Pinotage is earthy and dry, its person-ality leaning toward gamy black pepper and herb. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $48

88 Haka by Labyrinth 2012 Petit Verdot (Paso Robles). Nearly opaque in the glass, this

heavy-duty wine smells of blackberry extract and old leather. The palate is all dark red fruit with a bit

of cola, yet the tannins are extremely strong. Hold till at least 2017. —M.K. abv: 14.4% Price: $26

88 Toccata 2011 Barbera (Santa Barbara Coun-ty). The fresh nose on this rare Central

Coast Barbera combines violet, Bing cherry, plum jam and minty black sage. There palate is less excit-ing, but does deliver strong purple fruits and spicy, lively acidity. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $29

87 Bell Springs 2012 Dolcetto (Santa Barbara County). This Italian varietal wine was made

outside of Austin, Texas with Santa Barbara fruit. Aromas mostly rely on the barrel, with oak and smoke prevalent. The easy-drinking flavors empha-size red fruit, proving light but with enough tannic backbone to pair with Texas barbecue. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $24

87 Haka by Labyrinth 2012 Tempranillo (Paso Robles). Sweet woodsmoke with herbs, like

a sagebrush wildfire, mixes with distinct scents of marinara sauce on this Spanish varietal bottling. The mouth-drying tannins are a bit strong, so hold at least until 2017, but the herb-focused flavors of licorice, dill, fennel and tomato are promising. —M.K. abv: 14.4% Price: $26

85 Buena Vista 2013 The Count’s Selection Pi-not Meunier (Sonoma County). Typically

a blender, this Pinot Meunier is lightly textured before delving into smoky cedar and forest fire as-pects, akin to gamy meat. Intense on the palate, the fruit recalls tart apple. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $36

85 Panaro Brothers Winery 2009 Barbera (Paso Robles). There’s a sour nose on this bottling

from a family winery in Ventura, with cranberry, burnt orange and dried leather. It’s rich and more appealing on the palate, with pressed figs and kala-mata olive. —M.K. abv: 12% Price: $24

ARGENTINACHARDONNAY

90 Bodega Catena Zapata 2011 White Bones Adrianna Vineyard Chardonnay (Mendo-

za). Dusty, oaky nectarine and apricot aromas are smooth and clean. This is full in body, with a lay-ered stone-fruit-driven palate that’s showing good body and bright acidity. Flavors of nectarine and peach are lightly toasted and bring a note of vanilla, while the finish is round and mellow. Drink now. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $125

90 Salentein 2012 Plot N°2 Single Vineyard Chardonnay (Uco Valley). Classy aromas of

WINEMAG.COM | 47

pear, stone fruits and resiny but controlled oak lead to a pure, moderately woody and balanced palate that delivers ripe apple, melon and peach flavors along with oak backing. Vanilla and walnut flavors grace a nicely textured, creamy yet lively finish. Palm Bay International. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $50

89 Bodega Catena Zapata 2011 White Stones Adrianna Vineyard Chardonnay (Mendoza).

Tropical fruit aromas combine with the scents of apricot and dust to create an almost Moscato-like bouquet. The juicy, citrusy palate carries orange and spiced-apple flavors. A hint of toast and resid-ual resiny oak drive a juicy, pulpy finish. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $100

85 Ferllen 2013 Chardonnay (Mendoza). Oily white-fruit and oaky, resiny aromas of

spearmint are severe. This is a round, waxy feel-ing wine with a pulpy palate. Flavors of citrus and orange peel run long and woody. SPW Importers. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

84 Andeluna 2013 1300 Chardonnay (Uco Val-ley). Oily and pungent on the nose, this has

a sweaty element to go with citrus aromas and fla-vors. As it opens, grapefruit and licorice gumdrop flavors emerge, with a toasty oak note coming up late. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

83 Alfredo Roca 2014 Fincas Chardonnay (Men-doza). Flowery, tropical aromas might have

you thinking this is Torrontés. The palate is flimsy and dilute, with lychee and pyrazine-driven flavors that tail off in bitter fashion. Hand Picked Selec-tions. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

82 Finca Don Carlos 2013 Calathus Roble Char-donnay (Uco Valley). Heavy oak aromas

of vanilla and toast are dominant. Resiny oak and pulpy citrus characteristics drive the palate, which tastes of vanilla and salty orange. It offers a pickled, woody, almost sour finish. Hand Picked Selections. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $22

80 Domiciano de Barrancas 2014 Cosecha Noc-turna Chardonnay (Mendoza). Damp and

sweaty, this offers mealy citrus aromas, a heavy pal-ate and a mix of bitter-finishing citrus and nutti-ness. Face to Face Wine Imports, LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $11

TORRONTÉS

87 Kaiken 2014 Terroir Series Torrontés (Salta). Round, tropical-fruit aromas are plump and

easygoing. This is a fat, somewhat oily Torrontés with flowery flavors of lime and papaya that turn

pithy and a touch bitter on the finish. Drink right away. TGIC Importers. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

87 Zolo 2014 Sustainably Farmed Estate Grown and Bottled Torrontés (Mendoza). For full

review see page 16. Best Buy. abv: 13% Price: $11

86 Altocedro 2014 Abras Torrontés (Cafayate). Light lemon-lime aromas are simple and

clean. Ditto the palate, which is standard and holds steady. Flavors of pithy citrus, almond skins and ly-chee finish fast, with an oily character taking over. Drink immediately. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

85 Ferllen 2013 Torrontés (Mendoza). Mango and lychee aromas get this mature white go-

ing. A pulpy, round palate holds orange, apricot and quince flavors, while the finish is fairly full in size and mouthfeel. Drink immediately. SPW Importers. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

85 Finca El Origen 2014 Reserva Torrontés (Sal-ta). Lightweight tropical fruit aromas are

fresh. The palate, however, is more oily and pinched, with briny melon and tropical flavors that lack pop and specificity. Saltiness and mild bitterness carry onto the finish. Carolina Wine Brands USA. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

82 Recuerdo 2013 Torrontés (La Rioja). On the heels of two better vintages, this comes

across oily, hard and nutty, like Torrontés tends to be when it is losing freshness. An oily, nutty-tasting flavor profile mimics the nose, and the finish is bit-ter, tart, pithy and citric. Bespoke Collection. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $12

81 Salentein 2014 Killka Collection Torrontés (Uco Valley). Aromas of rubber flooring and

vague chemicals override tropical fruit scents. The palate lacks flow, while flavors of oily melon and cit-rus fruits turn bitter, oily and soapy on the finish. Palm Bay International. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $14

81 Tomero 2013 Torrontés (Mendoza). An oily, muscular nose is musky and a touch flowery.

In the mouth, this is aggressive and hard, with briny apple, citrus and green flavors. A cidery finish has a sour note to it and sharp acidity. Blends Inc.. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

SAUVIGNON BLANC

84 O. Fournier 2013 B Crux Sauvignon Blanc (Uco Valley). Citrus peel, melon and peach

aromas are ordinary. This feels pithy and citric, while flavors of white grapefruit and underripe

stone fruits finish almondy and bitter. The Country Vintner-Craft and Estate. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $21

83 Bodega Atamisque 2013 Serbal Sauvignon Blanc (Tupungato). The palate shows mod-

est citric acidity which sets up a flavor profile of sulfur, grapefruit and tangerine. Pyrazines and bit-terness run roughshod on the finish. Wine Bridge Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

83 Verum 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Alto Valle del Río Negro). Prickly, sweaty aromas include

matchstick and herbaceous green-fruit notes. In the mouth, this is chunky yet citrusy. Flavors of grassy citrus trend toward green, while a pithy, citric finish is bitter. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

83 Zolo 2014 Sustainably Farmed Estate Grown and Bottled Sauvignon Blanc (Mendoza).

Soft, bland aromas of applesauce and herbaceous green fruits lead to a jumbled, acidic palate that’s awkward and scouring. Green flavors of lime and grass finish tangy. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

OTHER WHITE WINES

85 Bressia 2011 Lágrima Canela (Mendoza). Ex-tremely oaky and resiny, this offers aromas

of wood grain, resin, vanilla and sawdust that crowd out any fruit that might seek to escape. The palate feels heavy and resiny, with flavors of wood, vanilla and coconut, but again almost no fruit. This is 70% Chardonnay and 30% Sémillon. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $50

82 DiamAndes 2013 de Uco Viognier (Uco Val-ley). Flat peach aromas introduce a chunky,

grabby palate with flavors of baked apple, brine and walnut. DiamAndes USA. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

80 Durigutti 2014 Moscatel (Mendoza). Harsh, nutty, oily aromas lack purity and elegance.

Mealy citrus flavors lead to a heavy, citrusy finish. Elixir Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $15

ROSÉS

84 Tapiz 2014 Alta Collection Malbec Rosé (Mendoza). Tire rubber aromas and raw

red-fruit notes lead to a heavy palate with acidic grab. Red apple, raspberry and plum flavors finish citrusy. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $15

82 Vicentin 2013 Blanc de Malbec (Mendoza). This oak-aged rosé barely offers any fruit on

BUYINGGUIDE


the nose. In the mouth, it’s heavy and woody. Nutty, peachy, melony flavors are flat, yet the finish shows acidity. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.S. abv: 14.3% Price: $NA

81 Kunza 2012 Extra Brut Private Collection Tannat-Malbec Rosé (Mendoza). Red in color,

with aromas of trail dust, baked beans and cooked berries, this is a heavy sparkler without much pulse. Flavors of jumbled berry fruits and brown sugar are baked and backed by a sweet, cloying finish. G&G Trading Company. —M.S. abv: 13.3% Price: $14

80 Gauchezco 2014 Clasico Malbec Rosé (Men-doza). Red in color, with red-apple aromas,

this has a barely acceptable mouthfeel and raw, sour flavors of raspberry and citrus. Mountain West Wines. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10

SPARKLING ROSÉS

85 Santa Julia NV Brut Rosé (Mendoza). Simple raspberry and strawberry aromas are pri-

mary in nature and friendly. On the palate, this lightly bubbled wine shows pomegranate, raspberry and rhubarb flavors, with a mild and yeasty finish. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

84 Alma Negra NV Brut Nature Rosé (Mendoza). This salmon-colored, no-dosage bubbly is

peachy, dusty and yeasty on the nose, with strong whiffs of sulfur and scrambled egg. A clunky, foamy palate comes across as clumsy, while peach and melon flavors are a touch bitter and mealy. Papaya and savory barbecued notes drive the finish, which has a bitter element. Vineyard Brands. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $20

84 Reginato 2011 Celestina Método Tradicional Rosé of Malbec (Mendoza). Sulfur, burnt

matchstick and powdered sugar aromas make up the bouquet. This Malbec-derived sparkler is round and full, with a light bubble bead. Heavy, sweet-tasting stone-fruit flavors finish melony and sugary sweet. Vine Connections. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

83 Baja Tanga NV Sparkling Sec Cuvée Rosé (Mendoza). Candied, dusty aromas turn

sweet and soapy if given time. The sugary feel to the palate stops just short of cloying, while candied raspberry, watermelon and brown sugar flavors end with milk chocolate and sweet red-fruit notes. Elix-ir Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

MALBEC

93 Bodega Catena Zapata 2010 Argentino Malbec (Mendoza). Jammy and mineral-

smelling at the same time, this Malbec exhibits an ideal set of plum and berry aromas. The palate is full but juicy, fresh and alert. Raspberry, currant, toast and spice flavors finish elegant and long, with no break-up in the wine’s totality. Drink through 2022. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $135

93 Bodega Catena Zapata 2010 Nicasia Vine-yard Malbec (Mendoza). Laser-like cassis

and black cherry aromas come with an accent of toasted oak. A pure, well-balanced palate isn’t at all pushy or heavy, while snappy, fresh flavors of rasp-berry and spiced plum finish racy, toasty and the slightest bit herbal. Drink through 2022. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $120

93 SignoSeis 2011 The Angel Oak Celestial Bar-rel Fermented Malbec (Valle de Uco). For full


92 Bodega Catena Zapata 2010 Adrianna Vine-yard Malbec (Mendoza). This stylish wine

opens with a floral, perfumed, high-altitude bou-quet that shows red currant and raspberry aromas. Like the nose, the palate is fresh and not ponderous. Crisp raspberry and cassis flavors finish with fresh-ness and elegance. Drink through 2020. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $150

92 Bodega Cuarto Dominio 2010 Malbec (Men-doza). Lush black-fruit and marzipan aro-

mas show notes of tobacco, cedar and leather. This is a ripe, layered Malbec with serious depth and balance as well. Intense currant and berry flavors are spicy and finish with muscular framework and length. Drink through 2019. Terlato Wines Interna-tional. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $50

92 Lamadrid 2012 Single Vineyard Reserva Mal-bec (Agrelo). A heady but attractive bou-

quet of marzipan, balsam wood, blackberry, cassis and raisin introduce a loaded but well-balanced, full-bodied palate. Toast, chocolate and black fruit flavors finish with additional spice, chocolate and lustiness. Drink through 2019. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20

92 Zolo 2011 Black Malbec (Mendoza). Stately dark-fruit and lemony oak aromas fold in

notes of shoe polish and fine wood. The wine has an alert yet ripe mouthfeel with tannic grip and depth. Oaky, loamy flavors of blackberry, toast and baking spices finish with modest heat and flavors of nut-meg and black pepper. Drink through 2019. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $40

91 Bodega Catena Zapata 2011 Catena Alta His-toric Rows Malbec (Mendoza). Meaty, minty

scents accent core cassis, jammy blackberry and

oaky aromas. In the mouth, this benchmark Ar-gentinean Malbec is tight and structured, with no flab or excess weight. An exotic mix of blueberry, cassis and Middle East spices finish long, with oak-driven lemony snap. Drink through 2020. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $60

91 Bodega Cuarto Dominio 2012 Chento Vineyard Selection Malbec (Mendoza). This concen-

trated, midnight-black Malbec delivers the aromat-ic goods in the form of charcoal, grilled meat and blackberry scents. An extracted palate benefits from core acidity, while black cherry, cassis and black-berry flavors come to rest on a rich but controlled finish. Drink through 2018. Terlato Wines Interna-tional. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20

91 Familia Cassone 2011 Obra Prima Coleccion Gran Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). Ripe, deep

aromas of cassis and marzipan evolve to show minerality. A big, chunky palate features flavors of baked blackberry, cassis and chocolate, while a mild, somewhat languorous finish is chewy and leaves a lasting taste of prune. Drink now through 2018. Bedford International. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $43

91 Raffy 2010 Grande Réserve Malbec (Tupun-gato). Aromas of pencil lead and lemony oak

vie with jammy, raisiny scents. This is a live-wire wine with energy flowing across a jumpy palate. Ripe cassis and blackberry flavors show a licorice note, while the finish is concentrated at first before breaking up and showing some heat. Drink through 2018. USA Wine West. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $39

90 Lagarde 2012 Malbec (Mendoza). Lightly floral and smoky up front, this features

bright red-berry aromas and similar flavors of rasp-berry and currant resting on a fresh but layered pal-ate. Narrowing tannins are not too fierce, while oaky notes of clove, pepper and toast drive the finish. Drink through 2018. Andes Importers, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $17

90 Salentein 2011 Plot N°21 Single Vineyard Malbec (Uco Valley). Plum, blueberry and

graphite aromas along with a mild horsey, grassy el-ement define the nose on this single-vineyard Mal-bec that’s jammy and a touch soft on the palate. Fla-vors of blackberry, prune and raisin are dull-edged, while the finish is baked and raisiny, with a slight hint of overripeness. Drink through 2016. Palm Bay International. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

89 VinEcol 2009 Los Medanos Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). This is a textbook Deep Purple

special: huge berry, menthol and violet aromas cre-ate a hefty, lusty bouquet. In the mouth, it is more narrow than you might hope for, with staunch tar-taric acidity. Jammy berry flavors are big but stan-

WINEMAG.COM | 49

dard, as is the finish. Drink through 2018. Metropo-lis Wine Merchants, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $28

88 Salentein 2013 Portillo Estate Bottled Mal-bec (Uco Valley). For full review see page 15.

Best Buy. abv: 14% Price: $11

88 Tamarí 2012 AR Malbec (Mendoza). Black olive, Band-Aid, latex and meaty berry aro-

mas emerge from a reduced nose. Tannic, hard and crimped on the palate, this requires as much air as you can give it. Gamy berry flavors are salty and finish with an herbal note. Terlato Wines Interna-tional. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $22

87 Capataz 2009 Malbec (Mendoza). This is a heavy, pushy, ultraripe Malbec with lots of

oak, toast and heat on the nose. A full, grabby pal-ate is tannic as nails, while baked black fruit fla-vors come with resiny oak and lemon-peel notes. A minty, herbal tasting finish is hard as granite. Dari-oush Winery. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

87 Mascota 2012 ROD Malbec (Mendoza). Big, dark, minty aromas include resin, clove and

blackberry. The palate is easygoing and plump, with plenty of weight and extraction. Earthy, baked fla-vors of blackberry become more salty and spicy on the finish. Saranty Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $11

87 Pascual Toso 2013 Estate Bottled Malbec (Mendoza). This oaky number offers enough

meaty fruit to keep itself on an even keel. Gritty ber-ry and sawdust aromas lead to a full-bodied, resiny palate. Woody, drying flavors rest heavily atop a core of medicinal, herbal berry fruit. It’s ripe and resiny on the finish, which is consistent with what came beforehand. TGIC Importers. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $13

87 Santa Ana 2012 Reserve Malbec (Mendoza). This chunky Malbec opens with a blast of

blackberry aromas and graphite. The palate is jam-my and not all that firm, with bold berry and plum flavors that stay solid across a fruity palate that fin-ishes toasty and with an echo of jammy blackberry. LCF Wines. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

87 Valentin Bianchi 2013 Elsa Bianchi Malbec (Mendoza). Crisp cherry tomato and plum

aromas turn more dark and grapy with airing. Jam-my yet fresh and easy on the palate, this quaffable Malbec delivers simple berry flavors along with an exotic note or two. A short finish falls off fast. Quintessential Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $12

87 Valle Las Nencias 2011 Reserve Malbec (Mendoza). This opens hot and heavy, with

pounding berry aromas and a touch of animal fur. The palate is full and compact, with jammy, syrupy berry and woodspice flavors. A long finish tastes of licorice and oak. Matadorvino LLC. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $16

86 Enrique Foster 2009 Reserva Finca Castro Barros Malbec (Luján de Cuyo). Gritty, stalky

aromas are leathery and hot. In the mouth, this single-vineyard Malbec is choppy and hard. Flavors of stalky berry fruits are good but unexciting, while the finish is toasty but not complex. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

86 Kaiken 2011 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). Hot on the nose, with earthy berry aromas

and touch of animal fur, this is a rich wine with a blanket-like mouthfeel. Concentrated, almost stewy flavors of spice and chocolate-infused blackberry finish oaky, chocolaty and medicinal. TGIC Import-ers. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $14

86 Layer Cake 2012 Malbec (Mendoza). This opens with blueberry and sandalwood aro-

mas that turn murky. Tannic and hard as a rock, this shows rooty, baked, ultraripe flavors of prune and berry in front of a raisiny finish. Vintage Point. —M.S. abv: 14.2% Price: $16

86 Septima 2012 Malbec (Mendoza). Primary berry aromas blend earthy blackberry and

a hint of minty green. The palate feels jammy and slightly reduced, while flavors of blueberry and boy-senberry come with a light hint of green herbs that carry onto the finish. Aveniù Brands, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $11

86 Tamarí 2013 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). Rubbery berry, leather and animal aromas

precede a bright, lean, juicy palate. Wiry plum fla-vors shows an herbal, peppery side, while the finish is fresh, hot and oaky, with a peppery, lasting flavor. Terlato Wines International. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

85 Belasco de Baquedano 2013 Llama Old Vine Estate Bottled Malbec (Mendoza). Crisp

aromas of red-apple skins show a note of paint/rub-ber cement. This smacks down with firm tannins, while berry flavors are generic and exhibit hints of prune and blueberry. This is mildly raisiny on the finish. Cabernet Corporation. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

85 Eugenio Bustos 2011 Altivo Vineyard Selec-tion Malbec (Uco Valley). Lightly roasted,

stalky and gamy on the nose, this is a big, rubbery, astringent Malbec with berry and baking-spice fla-vors. Heavy, hot, and sticky, it blasts at full volume. USA Wine West. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

85 Red Rock 2012 Reserve Malbec (Mendoza). Aromas of plum, berry and Band-Aid come

up on the nose. This is wiry, acidic and tannic in feel. Pinched berry flavors ride roughly on a wave of punchy acidity, while the finish is hard and tannic, with loamy berry leftovers. E & J Gallo. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

85 Ricardo Santos 2009 El Gran Malbec (Men-doza). Horsey, overripe aromas don’t con-

vey a sense of balance. As the nose indicates, this comes across heavy and syrupy, with blocky tan-nins. Stewy flavors of blackberry and prune fin-ish with hard tannins. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

84 Bodega Goulart 2011 Clásico Malbec (Luján de Cuyo). Stalky, oaky and rustic on the

nose, this is a creamy, woody, resiny Malbec with oak-based flavors of plastic and vanilla along with slightly stewed, baked fruit. Clove and medicinal flavors are prominent on the finish. Opici Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12

84 Chakras 2012 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). Jammy berry aromas are medicinal and

show a note of animal fur. A rubbery, bouncy pal-ate is lively but lacks finesse, while herbal raspberry and red-plum flavors finish medicinal and herbal, much like the nose and palate. Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

84 Deumayen 2009 Trez Reserva Malbec (Men-doza). Rubbery, leathery aromas become

stalky and gritty with airing. This is hard, tannic and acidic on the palate, with burnt, gritty flavors of roasted plum and herbal berries. A tannic finish lacks nuance. VOS Selections. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

84 Graffigna 2012 Centenario Reserve Malbec (San Juan). Stalky plum and berry aromas

are standard, with a blocky feeling palate that’s softened by creamy oak. Herbal plum and berry fla-vors disappear quickly on the finish. Pernod Ricard. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $13

84 Manos Negras 2013 Malbec (Mendoza). Damp, rubbery berry and hickory aromas

lack ease. This offers a rubbery, midlevel palate-feel along with roasted, herbal flavors that carry heat. The finish is chunky in feel and tastes herbal as well as salty. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $15

84 Region 1 2013 Malbec (Mendoza). Lightly floral berry aromas show their best out of

the chute. A direct, angular palate is crisp, with mild tartaric scour. Dark plum and berry flavors are

BUYINGGUIDE


short, as is the finish. Pampa Beverages LLC. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $8

84 Santa Julia 2013 [+] Malbec (Mendoza). Dense berry aromas are a bit flat and me-

dicinal. Expect a juicy, direct palate with hard plum and berry flavors that are also a touch briny/salty. A full finish loses its fruit fast, leaving ringing acidity and a lasting briny flavor. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

83 Bodega Carmine Granata 2011 Estate Bottled Malbec (Mendoza). This opens with off-put-

ting aromas of cinnamon and air freshener. On the palate, this is chewy and creamy, with a ton of oak and jammy, baked berry flavors that finish sticky. Tarasi Wineries. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

83 Quara 2013 Estate Bottled Malbec (Cafay-ate). Rough and rugged is the best way to

describe this Malbec. Earthy, woody, rubbery berry aromas lead to a sharp, high-acid palate. Wiry, fiery plum-like flavors stay fierce and pick up heat on the finish. Pampa Beverages LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

82 La Puerta 2013 Estate Grown & Bottled Mal-bec (La Rioja). Earthy, leafy berry aromas

are murky in general. This is narrow and acidic in feel, with salty, dry-fruit flavors. It finishes with to-mato and hard-spice flavors. EcoValley. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

82 Santa Julia 2013 Made with Organic Grapes Malbec (Mendoza). Rudimentary cherry and

berry aromas are foxy. A rubbery, pinched palate has a tannic, skins-related feel. After a quick shot of jumpy red-fruit flavors, this turns bitter on the finish. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

80 Massimo 2013 Malbec (Mendoza). Stalky, grassy, burned-out aromas are off-putting.

A creamy palate struggles for balance, while the flavor profile is outright weedy and bitter. Delicato Family Vineyards. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

90 Bodega Norton 2012 Reserva Cabernet Sau-vignon (Mendoza). Baked, ripe, meaty and

dark, with an herbal note, this powerful, solidly built Cab has hard tannins and a firm structure. Ripe berry, cassis, herb, nutmeg and rooty sweet-ness vie for attention on a flavor profile that tails off oaky, chewy and ripe. Drink through 2019. TGIC Importers. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $19

90 SonVida 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Men-doza). Lightly baked, rooty aromas of berry

fruits come with notes of charcoal and toast. This is layered, deep and creamy in feel, with firm tan-nins waiting in the wings. Ripe berry and cassis fla-vors mixed with notes of tobacco and carob finish with nutmeg, chocolate and other flavors from the bake shop. Drink through 2020. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $26

89 Finca Decero 2012 Remolinos Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Agrelo). Aromas of

asphalt and grilled steak accent berry and cassis scents. This hits hard on the palate, with no mercy to the tannins. Flavors of cherry and cassis come with notes of desert sage and chocolate. Drill-ing tannins last through the finish. Drink through 2020. Vintus LLC. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

88 Bodega Catena Zapata 2012 High Mountain Vines Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Rub-

bery berry and cassis aromas are a touch reduced. This is round in feel, with creamy oak covering hard tannins. Spicy, herbal berry and currant fla-vors lead to a finish that is slightly minty and green. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

87 Cruz Alta 2012 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Foresty, lightly herbal berry aro-

mas come with oaky char and toast notes. This feels a bit wide and flat. Flavors of herbal plum and cassis finish with gritty tannins and scratchy burn. Total Wine & More. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

87 Septima 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Men-doza). Concentrated berry aromas are basic

but full and pleasing, with a hint of pastry popping up. A snappy, crisp, drying palate houses lightly herbal plum and currant flavors, while the finish is juicy and tastes a bit herbal and spicy. Aveniù Brands, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $11

86 Bodega Renacer 2013 Punto Final Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza).

Spicy oak, clove and berry and black-plum aromas define the nose on this woody number. The palate is tannic and clampy in feel, while oak-driven flavors of spice overrun the wine’s fruit. Clove and cin-namon notes along with heat remain on the finish. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 14.8% Price: $17

86 Mascota 2012 ROD Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Fiery oak and resiny aromas

derive from the barrel. Monster tannins create a gritty, tough mouthfeel, while flavors of blueberry, blackberry and cassis fade toward minty oak on the finish. Saranty Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $11

86 Salentein 2012 Portillo Estate Bottled Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Uco Valley). Black-fruit

and toasty aromas are simple yet direct and fresh. This Cab shows crisp, lip-smacking acidity, which yields an equally crisp, medium-bodied palate with herbal berry flavors that finish lean and tight. Palm Bay International. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $11

85 Tapiz 2013 T Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendo-za). Hard-driving plum and cherry aromas

are a touch rubbery. This Cab is wide on the palate but not all that dense or strong in the middle. Ripe, grapy flavors of black plum and cassis finish toasty and tannic. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $15

85 Tupun 2012 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Tupungato). Bold, inky aromas of boysen-

berry, shoe polish and dark spices belie a choppy palate that’s home to generic, slightly briny berry flavors that are pointed due to sharp acidity. A hard finish is a bit rough and hot. Craveiro Importers. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

84 Fabre Montmayou 2013 Phebus Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Simple berry and

plum aromas are ripe and expand with airing. That same airing dulls down the palate, leaving basic ber-ry flavors that finish short and rubbery, with almost no follow through. Saranty Imports. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $12

84 Gardel 2012 Colección Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). This unusual rendition of Cab-

ernet is grassy, light and floral up front, with blue-berry aromas. A jammy but flabby palate houses red-fruit flavors and a modicum of spice. There’s heat and a cocoa flavor to the finish. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $18

84 Lexicon 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendo-za). Berry aromas come with an oaky, lactic

whiff of plastic. A scratchy palate is fruity but awk-ward, with generic plum and dark-berry flavors. Fig cookie and chocolaty flavors control a blocky finish. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $10

83 El Esteco 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cal-chaquí Valley). This Salta Cabernet is closed

on the nose, green and smelling like cigar ash. Hard, green tannins and astringency create a tough en-vironment for stewy flavors. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

83 Region 1 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendo-za). Briny cherry and raspberry aromas offer

up a note of tire rubber. Muddled cherry and berry flavors finish short, and overall this wine lacks char-acter. Pampa Beverages LLC. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $8

WINEMAG.COM | 51

MERLOT

87 Fabre Montmayou 2012 Phebus Reserva Mer-lot (Mendoza). Bold berry aromas are full,

earthy and leathery. This is a forward, full-bodied Merlot with black-fruit flavors and strong notes of rubber and chocolate. A plump, loud finish is more herbal than what comes before. Saranty Imports. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $17

86 Domaine Jean Bousquet 2013 Made With Or-ganically Grown Grapes Merlot (Tupungato).

Dry, spicy, leafy aromas of cherry and plum are re-served. The palate is tight, bordering on astringent. Flavors of raspberry, plum and cherry show a spicy, oaky side, while the finish is toasty before hollowing out. Domaine Bousquet. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12

85 Tilia 2013 Merlot (Mendoza). Spicy plum and candied oak aromas control the nose.

The palate delivers a blend of raw acidity with but-tery oak on top, while flavors of herbal plum and pepper are scratchy and finish herbal, spicy and low on fruit. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

83 Don Leta 2013 Reserva Merlot (Mendoza). Aromas of tomato leaf, baked beans and

stewed plum set up a narrow, pinched palate. Fla-vors of herbal raspberry and red plum have a green, minty component that starts early and carries onto a dry, raw finish. Terroir Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $16

CABERNET FRANC

93 El Enemigo 2011 Gran Enemigo Gualtallary Single Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Mendoza).

This is the best Enemigo Cabernet Franc to date. It’s pure, heady, powerful juice with integrated smoky oak and spice aromas. Pure in the mouth, this is dense and full of quality. Blackberry and chocolate flavors are ripe and modern in style, while the fin-ish is full, leathery, a touch salty and savory. Drink through 2019. Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $110

92 El Enemigo 2011 Gran Enemigo Agrelo Single Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Mendoza). This is

top-notch Argentine Cabernet Franc. Savory, ex-otic, oaky blueberry and blackberry aromas set up a bold palate with ample acidity and modest tannins. Berry flavors and oak spice are the key flavors, while a buttery oak note and a pinch of salt rise up on the finish. Drink now through 2018. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $110

89 Salentein 2011 Numina Spirit Vineyard Cab-ernet Franc (Uco Valley). This is the first

high-end Cab Franc from Salentein, and it’s very nice despite showing overt, minty green aromas

and a soupy note. The palate feel is more plump and chunky than hard and concentrated. Flavors of herbal, leafy, briny berry fruits finish warm, oaky and leafy. Drink through 2017. Palm Bay Interna-tional. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

BONARDA

87 Zolo 2014 Sustainably Farmed Estate Grown and Bottled Bonarda (Mendoza). Powerful

black-fruit aromas are dusty and minerally, with a rubbery component. A loud, juicy palate is jacked up with acidity, while red-berry flavors are wild and full of energy. This is an intense bistro wine to drink with a burger or flank steak. Vino Del Sol. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $10

86 Tupun 2013 Bonarda (Tupungato). Toasty, minerally, peppery aromas get this bright,

red-alert Bonarda going. Berry, black plum and cur-rant flavors are backed by toasty oak, while the fin-ish is bright, active and juicy. Drink with steak or burgers. Craveiro Importers. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $10

85 VinEcol 2013 Made With Organic Grapes Bo-narda (Mendoza). Wild berry and meaty

sausage aromas introduce a creamy, concentrated palate. Jammy cassis flavors have a peppery edge, while the finish is toasty at first, transitioning to bitter. Metropolis Wine Merchants, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $10

84 Ruca Malen 2013 Yauquen Bonarda (Mendo-za). Strong berry and horsey aromas set the

stage for a fruity palate braced by a shot of acidity. Blackberry flavors are a touch funky and finish hot and big. Opici Wines. —M.S. abv: 13.3% Price: $13

RED BLENDS

93 Mendel 2012 Unus (Mendoza). With oak-driven aromas of mocha, coffee, cedar and

berry fruits, this blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sau-vignon and Petit Verdot is effusive on the nose. Concentrated and huge, but well balanced, it offers high-volume berry, herb, chocolate and spice fla-vors—the lynchpins of excellent wines. Spicy, long and elegant on the finish, this is the real deal. Drink through 2021. Vine Connections. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

92 Revancha 2011 La Gran Blend (Mendoza). Re-vancha is a new line of wines from esteemed

winemaker Roberto de la Mota. This blends Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Cab Franc. On the nose, it is spicy, lightly herbal and deep in fruit. A tight palate shows raw tannins and flavors

of wild berry and oak-based coconut. Dry, flashy and a bit rough on the finish, this will benefit from a few more years in bottle. Drink through 2020. Mc-Clellan Imports. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $33

91 Las Vertientes 2013 Benchmark Reserva (Mendoza). Aromas of balsam wood, marzi-

pan and ripe blackberry are focused and generous. Chewy tannins hold the palate together, while fla-vors of herbal, spicy cassis and black plum come with chocolate and baking spice notes before finish-ing thick but focused. Drink through 2018. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

88 Durigutti 2012 Reserva (Mendoza). Loamy, ripe berry aromas come with leather and

raisiny notes. This blend of five grapes is heavy, tannic and weighty, but not overtly out of balance. Stewed berry and raisiny flavors are as ripe as they can get and still stay somewhat fresh, while the finish is raisiny. Overall this is a one-dimensional, fully ripe wine. Elixir Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

88 Lagarde 2012 Guarda Blend (Mendoza). This blend of Malbec, Cabernet, Merlot and Syr-

ah opens with oak-driven aromas of hard spices and briny berry fruits. The palate is wiry and juicy in feel, with pointed acidity. Baked berry flavors plus strong notes of clove and nutmeg finish spicy, with a lasting blend of cocoa and saltiness. Martin & Com-pany Wines Inc. —M.S. abv: 14.2% Price: $25

88 Las Vertientes 2013 Benchmark (Mendoza). Ripe, loamy black-fruit aromas come with

notes of wood smoke, pastry and raisin. The palate feel is sticky and heavy, with more than enough ex-traction. Flavors of concentrated blackberry, cassis and blueberry are bold but lack finesse, while the finish is dense, jammy and blocky. Drink sooner rather than later. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $25

88 SignoSeis 2012 The Angel Oak Assemblage Reserva (Valle de Uco). Reduced aromas of

lemon peel, blueberry and cardamom are exotic, while the palate is juicy, insecure and rings around wildly. The flavor profile is front-loaded with juicy berry fruits, and the back end is wiry and a touch sour. This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec. Argentinean Wines, LLC. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

87 Altocedro 2012 La Consulta Select (Uco Val-ley). Ripe yet herbal-smelling blackberry

and plum aromas come with notes of gum drop, dried cheese and leather. This is fat feeling and low on definition; flavors of prune and stewed berry are nearly overripe, while the finish tastes roasted, sa-vory and leathery. Malbec, Cabernet, Tempranillo and Syrah is the blend. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: NA Price: $29

BUYINGGUIDE


86 Amalaya 2012 Malbec Blend (Salta). Exotic, floral berry aromas come with a covering

of lactic, pasty oak. This Malbec-heavy blend feels jammy and wide, with moderate acidity. Chunky berry flavors taste herbal and roasted, while the fin-ish has a baked quality and loamy wild berry flavors. Hess Family Wine Estates. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $16

85 Layer Cake 2012 Sea of Stones (Mendoza). Black currant and plum aromas include

toasty notes with hints of crushed brick and clove. The palate immediately registers as syrupy and soft, while the flavor profile centers around roasted, sa-vory, barbecued flavors that finish meaty and loamy. This is a ripe wine made from Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Petit Verdot. Vintage Point. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

84 Graffigna 2012 Centenario Elevation Reserve (San Juan). Herbal berry aromas come with

a note of asphalt before veering toward eucalyptus. The palate is acidic, so much so that it pushes the wine’s flavors toward salty and tart. Generic berry flavors pop up on the finish once the wine’s tartaric acidity subsides. Pernod Ricard. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $13

83 Chakana 2013 Estate Selection Red Blend (Mendoza). Rubbery, medicinal aromas sug-

gest iodine and latex. This blend of Malbec, Caber-net Sauvignon and Syrah is heavy and flabby, with baked, herbal flavors that finish saucy and show notes of tomato and fennel. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $29

83 Verum 2012 Los Cisnes Coalescence (Alto Valle del Río Negro). Leathery, rubbery aro-

mas are pinched, stalky and unripe. This Patago-nian blend is drawing and astringent, with bland, cool-climate red-berry flavors that have an herbal streak. Saucy, tannic and heavy on the finish, this ends with a note of salami and fennel. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $25

OTHER RED WINES

89 Finca Decero 2011 Remolinos Vineyard Mini Ediciones Petit Verdot (Mendoza). Floral

aromas of violet and black fruits include an oak-driven scent of plastic. In the mouth, this PV is plump and widespread, maybe even a bit flabby. Flavors of salty, leafy, spicy berry and black cherry are dry, meaty and toasty on the finish, with subtle tannins. Drink through 2016. Vintus LLC. —M.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $38

88 Zuccardi 2011 Q Tempranillo (Mendoza). Spicy, earthy aromas of dark fruits turn

more charred and lemony as this opens. The palate is plump, full-bodied and oaky. Flavors of buttery

oak, toast, peppercorn and baked berry fruits finish woody and drawing. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20

87 Cicchitti 2011 Sangiovese (Mendoza). This is rusty in color, with rooty, leafy aromas. Sat-

urated and syrupy, it reflects Mendoza’s warm ter-roir. Ripe flavors of cola nut, caramel, baking spices and berry fruits finish rich, creamy and chocolaty. The Artisan Collection. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $22

87 Ruca Malen 2011 Reserva Petit Verdot (Men-doza). Blackberry, licorice and fig aromas

precede a tannic, rock-hard mouthfeel. This be-comes more woody, herbal and exotic as it unfolds on the palate, which is dark and bullish, with a toasty, menthol-heavy finish that’s grapy and hot. Opici Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $19

SPAINWHITE WINES

RIOJA

89 Muga 2013 Barrel Fermented (Rioja). Crys-tal-clear aromas of green apples and miner-

als come with a slight dash of oak. This is barrel-fermented Viura (with 10% Malvasia), but there’s nothing woody or overtly barrel-dominated about the wine, which is tight and citric on the tongue, with tangerine, green apple and nectarine flavors that finish racy and tart. Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $16

88 Vallobera 2013 Javier San Pedro (Rioja). Fleshy aromas of melon and apple fold in

a few crumbs of vanilla cookie. This Viura feels healthy and balanced, with white-fruit flavors ac-cented by tropical notes and green herbs. On the finish, lettuce and lime flavors hold steady. Drink now. Axial Wines USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $12

85 Bodegas Muriel 2013 Vendimia Seleccionada Blanco (Rioja). Oily matchstick aromas are

gritty and stalky. On the palate, this shows proper acidity and good overall feel. Flavors of lime, grape-fruit and persimmon show mildly bitter pyrazines, while the finish is citric and controlled by a lime character. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $12

84 Bodegas Valdemar 2013 Conde de Valdemar Finca Alto Cantabria Fermentado en Barrica

Viura (Rioja). Dusty vanilla and bland white fruit aromas introduce a round, oaky palate housing wood-infused flavors of citrus and stone fruit. The finish is resiny and briny, with oak sitting on top

of muted fruit tones. Terlato Wines International. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

84 CVNE 2013 Monopole Viura (Rioja). This Viura is a bit lacking in aromatic freshness;

it smells pinched and earthy. A tangy, acidic palate is helpful in terms of mouthfeel, while stalky flavors of white fruits are modest and turn bitter on the fin-ish. Europvin USA. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $15

84 Dinastía Vivanco 2013 Vivanco Viura-Mal-vasía-Tempranillo Blanco (Rioja). Sweaty,

pinched aromas are more alarming than inviting. The palate of this three-grape blend follows the nose and is angular and sharp. Flavors of green fruit and sour white grapefruit finish with borderline scouring acidity. Opici Wines. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

84 El Coto 2013 Viura (Rioja). Musky melon and pear aromas are simplistic on the nose. A

weighty palate with citric acidity sets up tangerine and nectarine flavors that turn pithy and bitter on the finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $11

84 Finca Nueva 2013 Fermentado en Barrica Viura (Rioja). Slightly mealy apple aromas

drive the nose. This wine is disjointed on the palate but contains lively citric acidity. Flavors of lemon, orange and briny gooseberry finish a touch bitter and tart. Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $16

83 Marqués de Cáceres 2013 Satinela Medium Sweet (Rioja). Dusty tropical fruit aromas

are scratchy and rough on the nose. Lemon-lime and powdered sugar flavors are not cloying due to vital acidity, while the finish is pithy and bitter at first, then sugary sweet. Vineyard Brands. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $9

81 Bodegas Franco-Españolas 2013 Royal Viura (Rioja). The aromas are grassy and oxidized.

The palate is narrow and tangy, while flavors of green melon and lime finish slightly stalky. Vision Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $10

RUEDA

88 La Soterraña 2013 Eresma Sauvignon (Rue-da). Aromas of almond skin on top of min-

erally apple are nice yet somewhat neutral. Bright on the palate, this is a clean version of Sauvignon Blanc showing citrus, apple cider and melon flavors. A mellow finish with modest acidity is just refresh-ing enough. Solstars Inc. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

87 Naia 2013 Las Brisas (Rueda). Floral, white-fruit aromas are mild on the nose. Citrus,

WINEMAG.COM | 53

melon and tropical fruit flavors ride on a balanced palate showing brightness without being sharp or scouring. The weighty finish of this Verdejo, Viura, and Sauvignon Blanc blend shows presence but isn’t too heavy. Aviva Vino. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $13

86 Bitácora 2013 Verdejo (Rueda). Melon and lime aromas are a touch creamy and leesy

on the nose. Overall, this is fresh on the palate, with apple and melon flavors holding steady, while citrus peel and a hint of lime drive the finish. Drink now. Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $10

85 Bodegas Copaboca 2013 Gorgorito Verdejo (Rueda). Friendly melon aromas are a touch

dusty on the nose. A plump, round mouthfeel is ap-propriate for melon, lime and green banana flavors which finish soft and a bit dilute. Drink now. Vinaio Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

85 Legaris 2013 Verdejo (Rueda). Citrus peel, nettle and cactus aromas lean toward

green and peppery in character. The palate fol-lows suit showing bell pepper, lime and citrus pith tones evolving to a bitter finish. Drink now. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $13

85 Naia 2013 S-Naia Sauvignon Blanc (Rueda). Aromas of passion fruit, citrus and green

leaf tones follow through to a juicy palate showing lightly vegetal flavors. The finish is mellow in feel, with grassy, green notes. Aviva Vino. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $14

85 Telmo Rodríguez 2013 Basa (Rueda). Dusty aromas of unripe melon and apple are pyr-

azinic. A bit of spritz greets you on the palate, while flavors of green citrus run heavy and pithy. Vintus LLC. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

83 Blanco Nieva 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Rueda). Pungent and sweaty on the nose, the pal-

ate brings a heavy mouthfeel showing pithy flavors of citrus and almond skin. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

83 Rodriguez Sanzo 2013 Viñas Sanzo Viñas Vie-jas Verdejo (Rueda). A mix of stony melon

and grassy aromas show dully on the nose. The pal-ate is blocky, with hollow white and green fruit fla-vors leading to sour and bitter notes on the finish. Vinamericas Selections. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

82 Marqués de Irún 2013 Verdejo (Rueda). This wine brings stalky aromas of white fruit

tones on the nose. The palate is sharp, with brined

apple notes leading to a short finish. Europvin USA. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

81 Emina 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Rueda). Yellow in color, the nose is soapy, with odd notes of

shampoo and yeast. The palate is adequate, with tropical fruit flavors which fall flat and bitter on the finish. Matarromera USA, Inc. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

RÍAS BAIXAS

90 Val do Sosego 2013 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Apple and stone fruit aromas are fresh and

direct, not wayward, leesy or creamy. This is a lay-ered, somewhat complex Albariño, with fresh fla-vors of lemon curd and white peach. A dry, classy, wet stone finish is elegant and emphasizes the posi-tives of the variety. Saranty Imports. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

88 Vieira de Plata 2013 Silver Scallop Albariño (Rías Baixas). Leesy, powdery aromas of

melon, papaya and vanilla set up a citrusy palate that’s fit and well cut. Citrus and nectarine are the key flavors, followed by a fresh and juicy citric fin-ish. Vinamericas Selections. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

87 Adegas Terra Santa 2013 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Aromas of generic stone fruit drive

the dusty bouquet of this wine. A tight palate deals nectarine and orange flavors in front of a persistent juicy finish. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $15

87 La Cana 2010 La Caña Navia Albariño (Rías Baixas). Floral and melony up front, with a

round, soft palate, this ready-to-drink wine offers apple and mango flavors backed by peachy notes. Drink now. Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $39

87 Terras Gauda 2013 O Rosal (Rías Baixas). Yel-low in color, with floral and white fruit aro-

mas, this wine is a touch blocky on the palate but overall is fine in terms of feel and balance. Flavors of nectarine and tropical fruit finish a bit oily and heavy. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $24

86 Pazo de Barrantes 2011 La Comtesse de Pazo Barrantes Albariño (Rías Baixas). Floral and

tropical aromas are leesy and slightly salty. The pal-ate is oily in feel, with lightly oxidized flavors of overripe melon and tropical fruit. Drink now. Mai-sons Marques & Domaines USA. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $60

85 Bodegas Carballal 2013 Estylo Puro Albariño (Rías Baixas). Dusty white fruit aromas

come with a hint of matchstick on the nose. The palate is disjointed, with melon and palaya flavors

which turn pulpy and bitter on the finish. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S. abv: 11.7% Price: $15

82 Leirana 2011 Finca Genoveva Albariño (Rías Baixas). Waxy peach and nectarine aromas

are unfocused on the nose. Stone fruit and citrus flavors turn stalky and oxidized on the finish. Pen-insula Wines. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $46

81 Terras Gauda 2011 La Mar (Rías Baixas). Yel-low in color, with less-than-fresh aromas,

this past-its-prime white is made mostly from the rare Caiño Blanco grape. Flavors of pineapple, per-simmon and white fruit finish briny and disjointed. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $35

RIBEIRO

89 Terra do Castelo 2013 Treixadura (Ribeiro). Dusty peach and apple aromas come with a

mineral component that adds a clean quality to the bouquet. The crisp acidity cuts through a full palate of green apple and melon tones and shines through with a citrus finish. Drink now. Hand Picked Selec-tions. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $19

88 Viña Costeira 2013 First One Treixadura (Ri-beiro). Leesy peach and green melon aromas

are standard but pleasing on the nose. The palate is fresh, with good body, showing melon and stone-fruit flavors. This drink-now wine is friendly and attractive. USA Wine West. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $15

87 Terra do Castelo 2013 Selección White (Ri-beiro). Powdery notes, bath oil and white-

fruit aromas make for a fragrant nose. This is solid on the palate, with citric acidity and a slight oiliness to the feel. Flowery nectarine and orange flavors set up a weighty but fresh finish. Drink now. Hand Picked Selections. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $15

87 Viña Costeira 2013 First One (Ribeiro). Peach and melon aromas with dustings of miner-

als reflect the Ribeiro region’s cool-climate terroir. This is a good, honest white blend, with melon and mango notes driving the palate. Lime and mineral tones bring balance to the moderate residual sugar. USA Wine West. —M.S. abv: 11% Price: $15

86 Terra do Castelo 2012 Sensación White (Ri-beiro). While somewhat neutral on the

nose, a modicum of citric acid creates zing on the palate. Flavors of almond skin, unripe banana, cit-rus and dry melon finish juicy but without much in-tensity. Drink now. Hand Picked Selections. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $15

BUYINGGUIDE


OTHER WHITE WINES

85 Zagarrón 2013 Garbeo Sauvignon Blanc (La Mancha). Citrus and gooseberry aromas are

mild but typical of the variety. A basic citrus pal-ate delivers modest tangerine and nectarine flavors which lead to a mild, pithy finish showing light cit-ric notes. USA Wine West. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $10

84 Felix Solis 2012 Flirty Bird Sauvignon Blanc (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). There aren’t

many $4 wines out there, but this is actually quite decent. Yes, it’s a touch flat and creamy on the nose and the palate is slightly disjointed, but the wine’s peach, melon and apple flavors are reasonably good. Drink now. Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $4

84 Zagarrón 2013 Hacienda Zargón Sauvignon Blanc (La Mancha). For full review see page

17. Best Buy. abv: 11.5% Price: $8

83 Monterebro 2013 Blanco Sauvignon Blanc (Jumilla). Aromas of chewable vitamins,

apples and pine needles set up a plump, soft pal-ate of bland, pithy grapefruit flavors. Pacific Estates. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

ROSÉS

87 Borsao 2013 Rosé (Campo de Borja). For full review see page 16. Best Buy.

abv: 14% Price: $9

87 Inurrieta 2013 Mediodía Rosado (Navarra). Raspberry and cherry aromas introduce this

pink-tinted rosé. A chewy, full palate feels round and balanced, while flavors of briny berry and cher-ry finish bouncy and good, with a touch of residual sweetness. Drink now. Vinaio Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12

86 El Coto 2013 Rosé (Rioja). This salmon-colored Rioja rosé is fleshy and soft on the

nose, with modest definition and intensity. Citrus, berry, nectarine and melon flavors cover the full spectrum of fruits, while the finish is chunky but holds onto its form. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

85 Laguna de la Nava 2013 Tempranillo Rosado (Valdepeñas). Generic fruit and chewing

gum aromas don’t come with much definition on the nose. This is fleshy and just solid enough on the pal-ate, with peach and slightly nutty flavors that indi-cate the wine is at it’s peak. A sweet-tasting, melon finish is apropos. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $11

85 Monterebro 2013 Rosado (Jumilla). Straw-berry and cherry aromas are sweet and a bit

like Kool-Aid. The palate on this warm-region rosé is full and chunky, with lots of weight. The berry fla-vors are a touch heavy, while the finish feels plump and tastes candied. Drink now. Pacific Estates. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $9

SPAINRED WINES

RIOJA

94 Sierra Cantabria 2011 Finca El Bosque (Rio-ja). For full review see page 4. Cellar Selec-

tion. abv: 14.5% Price: $145

94 Viñedos de Paganos 2011 La Nieta (Rioja). For full review see page 4. Cellar Selection.

abv: 14.5% Price: $145

93 Benjamin de Rothschild & Vega Sicilia SA 2009 Macán (Rioja). This wine is earthy,

heavyset and reflective of a hot vintage. On the palate, this is ripe and chewy, with almost syrupy weight. Showing notes of robust dark chocolate, with a mix of oak, fruit and tobacco flavors, this in-augural wine from Benjamin de Rothschild and Vega Sicilia is ripe and broad, but also full of complexi-ties. Drink through 2024. Europvin USA. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $90

93 Launa 2011 Ikunus (Rioja). Piercing mineral-ity with pure plum and berry aromas greet

you on a rock-solid bouquet. This thoroughbred Rioja is racy and juicy, with inky black fruit flavors over subdued oak. A muscular and minty finish is full of verve and potential. Drink from 2016 through 2026. Aviva Vino. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

92 Benjamin de Rothschild & Vega Sicilia SA 2009 Macán Clásico (Rioja). Lightly baked

and charred on the nose, this is a well-oaked wine showing blackberry, cassis and lemon peel aromas. A saturated, layered palate features loamy blackber-ry and cassis flavors offset by peppery spice and co-coa dust. Licorice and blackened oak revive a sense of char on a broad, full finish. Drink through 2022. Europvin USA. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $50

92 Luis Alegre 2009 Parcela N.5 (Rioja). Grapy smelling at first, this is made from a vine-

yard located in a Spanish national park. It is tight, tannic and mildly astringent on the palate, with high-tension structure. Wild berry flavors are gam-ey in nature, with spice, tobacco and earth notes adding complexity. Drink this old vine wine now through 2022. Vinos Libres. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $40

92 Muga 2006 Prado Enea Gran Reserva (Rioja). For full review see page 7.

abv: 13.5% Price: $62

92 Sierra Cantabria 2011 Colección Privada (Rio-ja). For full review see page 7. Cellar Selec-

tion. abv: 14.5% Price: $49

91 Bodegas Bilbainas 2006 Viña Pomal Gran Riserva (Rioja). Roasted berry, black pepper

and mild leafy aromas are true to the region. The palate is full but not heavy or clumsy; flavors of earthy berry fruits show a touch of raisin, while the finish is loamy and smooth. Drink this approachable wine now through 2018. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $60

91 Castillo de Sajazarra 2008 Reserva (Rioja). Smoke and leather aromas are matched by

dried red fruit and spice tones. This is racy on the palate, with a fairly full body. Vanilla and caramel flavors turn darker and toastier with airing, while the fruit on this older Rioja favors cherry and cur-rant. Cocoa, tobacco notes with a juicy length define the finish. Drink through 2024. W. Direct. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $35

90 Bodegas Muriel 2008 Viña Muriel Reserva (Rioja). A narrow, hard-driving nose is

oaky and bit low on friendly fruit. Like most from the vintage, this wine is staunch, grabby and tannic on the palate. Black fruit with oak and herbal tones finish with strength and grip. Drink through 2024. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $40

90 Castillo de Cuzcurrita 2008 Cerrado del Castillo (Rioja). Heavy aromas of stewed

fruit, tree bark, raisin and lemony oak lead to a fully ripped palate showing astringent tannins and high-volume acidity. Typical the region, this delivers req-uisite tobacco, classic tomato and dried fruit flavors that finish wiry, tannic and stressed. Drink through 2025. Vinos Libres. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $90

90 Montecillo 2008 Cumbre (Rioja). Earthy berry aromas lean toward sweet, while

a smoky side of the bouquet screams of oak. This is tight, juicy and raw on the palate. There’s mild tartness and astringency to the wine’s cherry and plum flavors, while the finish is fruity around the edges but lightly bitter tasting in the middle. Drink through 2023. Osborne USA Inc.. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $59

89 Bodegas Bilbainas 2011 Viña Pomal Crianza (Rioja). For full review see page 12.

abv: 14% Price: $15

89 Casado Morales 2006 Gran Reserva (Rioja). Ripe aromas of roasted coffee and black

fruit filter onto a plump, layered and approachable palate. Baked berry and licorice flavors finish with a

WINEMAG.COM | 55

final dose of char and pepper. Drink this meaty wine through 2017. Red & White International Brands, LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $48

89 La Antigua 2006 Clasico Reserva (Rioja). Spice and leaf aromas ride above a mildly

ripe nose. Flavors of roasted plum, spice, wild herb and tomato finish well, with firm, slightly raw tan-nins. Drink this blend of 60% Garnacha, 30% Tempranillo and 10% Graciano through 2019. Ole Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

89 Montecillo 2009 Reserva (Rioja). Aromas of smoked cherry, plum, tomato and apple

skin fit the bill for the region. The fresh palate shows weight, with plum, currant and dry spice flavors. On the finish, this wine takes on a loamy weight and a modest raisin note. Evaton, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

88 Castillo de Cuzcurrita 2008 Señorío de Cuz-currita (Rioja). Like many from the vintage,

this wine is firm and tough, with rocky tannins and and a linear palate. Stalky aromas of green tobacco and berry fruit set up a compact, tight palate of hard berry flavors supported by abrasive tannins. Drink through 2025. Vinos Libres. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $40

88 Contino 2008 Reserva (Rioja). Earth and dried fruit tones are lackluster on the nose.

The palate is springy and grippy, with plum and cur-rant flavors that lead to oak and resin tones. The finish is slightly hot, with spice and a lasting green note. Drink through 2022. Europvin USA. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $50

88 Coro 2009 Crianza (Rioja). Earthy aromas of baked berry and raisin are loamy and sweet

on the nose. This wine is grippy and full on the pal-ate, with a shot of tomato acidity giving balance. Baked berry flavors ride in front of a moderately cooked finish. Drink now. Table 31 Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

88 Fernández Gómez 2010 Crianza (Rioja). Raspberry and strawberry aromas are re-

laxed on the nose and offer up a hint of lemon peel and spice. The palate is round and a bit chewy, with flavors of earthy red berry, oak, dried spice and chocolate which finish mellow and fairly long. Elixir Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

88 Montecillo 2010 Crianza (Rioja). Subtle raspberry and plum aromas are lightly

herbal and traditional for the region. A fresh, me-dium-bodied palate delivers upfront oak and cocoa flavors backed by spicy plum and berry fruit tones. A light, chocolate-dusted note rounds out the fin-ish. Evaton, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

88 Ramirez de la Piscina 2009 Crianza (Rioja). Saucy berry aromas are jammy and turn

mildly stalky after airing in the glass. A full and tannic palate is home to flavors of dried berry fruit, peppery spice and raw oak. Oak tones are persistent on the finish, but just enough dry raspberry and plum notes shine through to maintain quality. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

88 Viña Palaciega 2011 Crianza (Rioja). Earthy, dried red berry aromas are pure and text-

book the region. The palate is tight and drawing at first, then smoother after airing. Berry, oak, spice and mild herbal notes finish solid and steady. Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $12

87 Faustino Rivero Ulecia 2011 Yellow Label Crianza (Rioja). Slightly scratchy plum and

red berry aromas come with a pleasing herbal note on the nose. The palate is tight but racy and fresh, showing flavors of red berry and spice, while the peppery finish is dry, long and focused. Vinaio Im-ports. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10

87 Solar de Libano 2008 Reserva (Rioja). Aro-mas of tobacco, vanilla and dried fruit take

on a grassy note after airing in the glass. A cool, wet vintage for the region yields a slightly astringent and acidic palate. Flavors of dried plum, cherry and vanilla carry a tart streak, while the finish is both earthy and a bit sour. W. Direct. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

87 Vaza 2011 Crianza (Rioja). For full review see page 13.

abv: 14% Price: $15

87 Viña Eguía 2009 Reserva (Rioja). Ripe, earthy aromas of berry fruits and raisins

come with lactic oak and baking spice notes on the nose. Drying and tannic on the palate, this wine shows tart flavors of red berry and currant, with va-nilla and oak tones leading to a creamy, soft finish. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

86 Bodegas Valdemar 2010 Rioja. Earthy aro-mas of baked berry and red apple skin are

solid but simple. The stark palate is sharp in acidity, while cherry pie and red plum flavors are fresh but short lasting. A touch of oaky vanilla rises up on a zesty, cleansing finish. Terlato Wines International. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

86 Casa Juan 2006 Señor de Lesmos Crianza (Rioja). Hickory and savory oak aromas are

dominant on the nose, with leather and game scents on the periphery. The palate is earthy and round, showing streaks of unabsorbed acidity, while baked,

earthy, dried fruit flavors finish loamy and long. Drink now. Terraneo Merchants. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $14

86 CVNE 2010 Viña Real Plata Crianza (Rioja). Lactic oak-based aromas start out muted

but settle with earthy red berry scents. The palate is pinched and narrow in feel, with modest berry notes leading to a slightly bitter finish. Europvin USA. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

86 Viña Bujanda 2011 Crianza (Rioja). Crisp, briary red fruit and tomato aromas are an

appropriate start to a snappy, lightly-oaked palate. Cherry pie and red plum drive the midpalate, mov-ing to a slightly earthy but basic finish. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

86 Xavier Flouret 2009 Fé Reserva (Rioja). Candied cherry and plum aromas are pleas-

ing on the nose. The disjointed palate falls a bit flat, showing medicinal berry flavors surrounded by hard tannins. Cognac One, LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $21

85 Viña Eguía 2010 Rioja. Aromas of tobacco, vanilla and dried red fruit trend toward

scratchy and chemical on the nose. Oak-based tan-nins are raw and drying on the palate, with spice and red fruit tones finishing oaky but hot and hol-low. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

RIBERA DEL DUERO

94 Telmo Rodríguez 2010 M2 de Matallana (Ribera del Duero). Everything about this

wine is singing in harmony. The nose is fresh and pure, with raspberry, plum, spice and youthful rub-bery aromas. The palate is elegant and impeccably balanced, while flavors of vanilla and coconut an-nounce ample oak, with toasty, peppery plum and raspberry flavors waiting in the wings. Power, pre-cision and elegance are draped all over the finish. Best from 2017 through 2025. Vintus LLC. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $45

93 Alidis 2010 Expresión (Ribera del Duero). Blackberry, raspberry and asphalt aromas

are staunch and gritty. A tight, firm, structured pal-ate is balanced from front to back, while dark berry flavors are woody, dry, toasty and spicy. The big, solid, oaky finish is right on the money. Best from 2016 through 2023. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $75

93 Arrocal 2010 Selección (Ribera del Duero). For full review see page 4. Cellar Selection.

abv: 14% Price: $42

BUYINGGUIDE


93 Áster 2010 Finca El Otero (Ribera del Duero). Pure berry and plum aromas are nuanced by

notes of tobacco, cedar and spice. This wine is tight and rock solid on the palate, with laser-like focus. Flavors of plum, blackberry and toasty oak finish woody, smoky and resiny. Best from 2016 through 2023. Michael Skurnik Wines. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

92 Legaris 2010 Reserva (Ribera del Duero). Bold, deep cola, lemon peel and exotic spice

and herb aromas are a great intro to a well-built, saturated, but fairly tannic Tempranillo, with fla-vors of plum, blackberry and chocolate. Cedar and spice notes positively influence a layered finish. Overall this captures the essence of Ribera del Du-ero. Drink through 2022. Aveniù Brands, Inc. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $36

92 Matarromera 2010 Edición Limitada 25 Ani-versario Tempranillo (Ribera del Duero). Big,

wafting, fresh aromas are oaky and untamed on the nose. Round and grippy in feel, the palate brings dark, oaky, toasty flavors of black fruit, with lico-rice and chocolate hitting the finish. Best from 2017 through 2024. Matarromera USA, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $350

91 Convento de Las Claras 2011 Heritage (Ribera del Duero). Concentrated dark berry aromas

are powerful on the nose, showing a touch reduced but minerally. The palate on this young Ribera wine is pure and potent but not fierce. Ripe, loamy black-berry flavors finish muscular, with just enough el-egance and grace to confirm the wine’s overall qual-ity. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $27

91 Protos 2010 Reserva (Ribera del Duero). Ini-tial charred aromas turn to licorice and black

fruit on the nose. A rigid structure of fierce tannins provide strength to toasty, spicy berry flavors on the palate. Vanilla, herb and mocha tones combine with textural dryness on the finish. Drink though 2025. Aviva Vino. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

91 Señorío de Sotillo 2011 Crianza (Ribera del Duero). Dense dark fruit aromas show depth,

starting off a pleasant bouquet. On the palate, this wine is fresh yet lush, with earthy, lightly baked flavors of blackberry, chocolate and spice. A toasty note darkens the nuances on the narrowing finish. Vinamericas Selections. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $22

90 Bodegas Fuentespina 2011 Crianza (Ribera del Duero). Earthy aromas of ripe blackber-

ry and blueberry mingle with a rubber and smoke accent. The palate is bright, juicy and healthy, lead-ing to dark berry flavors that show a toasty, pep-

pery note. The finish is deep and solid, with proper length and mouthfeel. Axial Wines USA. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $19

90 Dominio de Atauta 2009 Llanos del Al-mendro (Ribera del Duero). Ripe and dense

from a warm vintage, this wine shows aromas of cedar, tobacco, black plum and blackberry on the nose. The baked fruit core is accented by cardamon and warm spice, then turns oaky and darker in char-acter. Drink through 2017. Aviva Vino. —M.S. abv: 14.7% Price: $140

90 Fincas Valdemacuco 2012 Roble (Ribera del Duero). With cola and dark fruit aromas

on the nose, this value winner shows nuance with violet tones. The palate is round and full without being harsh or tannic. Toasty oak accents black fruit flavors leading to a round, smooth, and fruity finish. Drink through 2017. CIV/USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

90 Monteabellón 2012 5 Meses en Barrica (Ribera del Duero). Fresh and pure on the

nose, this value-priced wine opens with unwaver-ing guile. A jammy, saucy palate blends acidity with extracted fruit, while flavors of plum, blackberry and currant finish mild. This reaches that desired level of affordable excellence. Drink through 2017. Europvin USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

89 Emina 2010 Prestigio (Ribera del Duero). Broad and ripe, this comes across heavy on

the nose, with fig and chocolate cake aromas. The palate is huge and tannic but also jammy. Fig, baked berry and tobacco flavors finish hot and toasty, like espresso. Matarromera USA, Inc. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $35

89 Monteabellón 2012 Avaniel (Ribera del Due-ro). Inky blackberry aromas soften with air-

ing and shift toward pastry tones on the nose. This full wine shows cassis, berry and baking spice on the palate, finishing loamy and smooth, yet slightly jammy. Europvin USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12

88 Cruz de Alba 2011 Crianza (Ribera del Duero). Savory aromas of Middle Eastern spice, ba-

con fat and exotic floral notes pervade on the nose. The palate is plump, with soft, unstructured tan-nins and brings flavors of oaky boysenberry, with a toasty bacon finish. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

88 García Figuero 2010 Tinto Figuero 12 Crianza (Ribera del Duero). Burnt leaf, barnyard,

earth and mulch notes are not exactly pure and fresh on the nose. Rock-hard tannins dominate on a gritty, oak-covered palate, however with time in the glass, this wine displays wood and spicy berry

flavors which show potential. Revisit in two years. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $32

88 Pagos de Quintana 2011 6 Meses en Bar-rica (Ribera del Duero). Dusty raspberry

and cherry aromas are ripe on the nose. Wiry and astringent at first, this wine expands and develops with time in the glass. Basic berry flavors and a sim-ple finish suggest that this should be enjoyed soon. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20

87 Viña Mayor 2011 Barrel Aged Tempranillo (Ribera del Duero). Deep aromas of raisin

and black fruit suggest moderate overripeness on the nose, and a jammy palate with fairly low acid-ity helps to confirm that impression. Flavors of rich blackberry lack acidic cut, while the finish is loamy and friendly. Drink through 2016. Vinum Interna-tional. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

86 Comenge 2012 Biberius (Ribera del Duero). Roasted, leathery and earthy aromas of red

berry fruits settle on a stewed note. The palate is grabby and raw, with tomato-like acidity. Flavors of savory, barbecued fruit suggest grilled red plum and tomato, while the finish is woody and salty. Beacon Wine Company. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $14

85 Pagos del Rey 2012 Altos de Tamaron (Ribera del Duero). Aromas latex and rich plum are

adequate and not offputting. This wine has a fresh but astringent mouthfeel showing flavors of cher-ry and plum that settle on an oaky, tannic finish. MHW, Ltd. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $11

CAMPO DE BORJA

88 Borsao 2013 Garnacha (Campo de Borja). For full review see page 14. Best Buy.

abv: 14.5% Price: $9

88 Borsao 2011 Berola (Campo de Borja). Scratchy berry fruit aromas come with oak-

based accents of vanilla and coconut. This has a somewhat grippy, resiny mouthfeel along with firm tannins. The jammy, oaky flavor profile is centered around plum and berry accents, while the finish is toasty and medicinal for this 70% Garnacha, 20% Syrah and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon blend. Fine Es-tates From Spain. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

88 Quo 2011 Old Vines Grenache (Campo de Borja). Concentrated on the nose, with

oak aromas that are under control, this Garnacha is fresh and firm on the palate. Flavors of loamy berry and cassis are ripe almost to the point of be-ing raisiny. A plump yet dry and spicy finish ends

WINEMAG.COM | 57

with oak-based resin and creaminess. The Artisan Collection. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $16

87 Bodegas Aragonesas 2012 Crucillón Tempra-nillo-Garnacha (Campo de Borja). Earthy,

warm berry aromas on the nose avoid being jammy and overripe. The palate on this everyday blend of Garnacha and Tempranillo is comfortable and bal-anced. Short plum and berry flavors shift to slightly lactic and creamy on the finish. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $8

87 Coto de Hayas 2011 Crianza Garnacha-Tem-pranillo (Campo de Borja). Ripe and oaky

up front, this fruit-forward blend of Garnacha and Tempranillo is loaded with creamy oak aromas that suggest plastic and vanilla. Airing reveals a fresh but plump palate that finishs with plum, berry and sweet oak flavors—the Holy Trinity of internation-ally friendly value wines. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

86 Bodegas Aragonesas 2012 Aragus Made With Organic Grapes (Campo de Borja). Lem-

ony oak aromas lead basic plum and currant scents toward a mildly astringent palate. Pinched, rubbery berry flavors ring around the palate, leading to a woody finish, with vanilla and spice flavors taking over. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $11

86 Bodegas Aragonesas 2010 Mósen Cleto Cri-anza Tempranillo-Garnacha (Campo de Bor-

ja). Smoky, saucy dark fruit aromas get this blend of 75% Garnacha and 25% Tempranillo off to a good start. A fresh, medium-bodied palate offers un-complicated flavors of plum and cherry backed by a modest, fruity and slightly abrasive finish. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

86 Borsao 2013 Viña Borgia (Campo de Borja). For full review see page 16. Best Buy.

abv: 14% Price: $8

85 Borsao 2013 Monte Oton Garnacha (Campo de Borja). For full review see page 16. Best


85 Santo Cristo 2011 Selección Garnacha (Cam-po de Borja). Raspberry and plum aromas

are a touch lean and medicinal in the bouquet. Crisp on the palate, with drawing, raw tannins, this wine shows generic raspberry and plum flavors. The fruit falls short on the finish, exposing medicinal and bit-ter tones. Europvin USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $10

CALATAYUD

87 Bodegas Ateca 2013 Honoro Vera Garnacha (Calatayud). Rubbery black cherry and

plum aromas are basic but fully ripe on the nose. The fruity palate is somewhat abrupt and harsh in feel, with medicinal black plum and berry flavors. A salty, briny character rises around a slightly hot finish. Gil Family Estates. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $9

87 Bodegas Ateca 2012 Atteca Old Vines Garna-cha (Calatayud). Oaky on the nose, this wine

shows mint and sawdust aromas that transition to asphalt and fiery heat upon airing. A dense palate is loaded with creamy oak, while leaf, mint and berry flavors finish charred. With 15% alcohol and heafty oak, this could use another year in bottle to settle down. Gil Family Estates. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $16

87 Lo Nuevo 2012 Sorbo a Sorbo Old Vines Gar-nacha (Calatayud). Crisp and direct, this

Garnacha delivers good berry aromas on the nose. Bold acidity creates a fresh mouthfeel, while racy berry flavors are clean, with a hint of cocoa and toast on the finish. Vintage Point. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12

85 Garnacha de Fuego 2013 Old Vines Garnacha (Calatayud). Muted black plum and rasp-

berry aromas come with a whiff of latex on the nose. The palate is tannic and grabby, with oaky berry fla-vors that turn leathery on the finish. Overall this Garnacha is full, staunch and designed for everyday drinking. Fine Estates From Spain. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $9

83 Pagos Familia Langa 2012 Real de Aragón Garnacha (Calatayud). Aggressive on the

start, this Garnacha smells gritty and rough. Overt oak creates a creamy mouthfeel, while herbal and green berry flavors finish bitter. Frontier Wine Im-ports. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

PRIORAT

90 Alvaro Palacios 2013 Camins del Priorat (Priorat). Deep and bright on the nose, this

Priorat blend is earthy and ripe. Jammy and full on the palate, this wine is muscular but balanced, showing deep black fruit and toasty oak flavors. A dark finish suggests black coffee and uncomplicated berry tones. Drink through 2017. Rare Wine Com-pany. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

89 Clos Gebrat 2013 Priorat. Ripe and oaky up front, a sweet vanilla aroma is redeemed by

darker notes of blackberry and asphalt. Jammy and full bodied, the palate delivers boysenberry, herbs

and creamy oak flavors. The heavy, chewy finish is dense and ripe. The Artisan Collection. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $24

87 Casa Rojo 2013 Maquinon Garnacha (Priorat). Herb and leather aromas lean toward green

in character but deliver enough cherry and rasp-berry tones to bring balance. A full, grippy palate is a touch raw in feel, while leafy berry flavors are mildly green, with a note of carob. The full, bold fin-ish comes with heat. Luneau USA Inc. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $24

85 Scala Dei 2013 Garnatxa (Priorat). Trans-parent in color, with a nose that is equally

light and airy, this is a crisp, dry, slightly oaky wine, with a hard-smacking palate. Red plum, raspberry, strawberry and currant flavors are subdued, and lead to a sweet-and-sour finish. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

JUMILLA

93 El Nido 2011 Jumilla. Rich blackberry and graphite aromas are ripe and heavy but

magnetic. The palate on this blend of 70% Cab-ernet Sauvignon and 30% Monastrell is extracted and mega ripe. Baked black fruit, chocolate and fig comprise the flavor profile on this rich red that tips the scales as a heavyweight. Drink through 2018. Gil Family Estates. —M.S. abv: 16% Price: $130

92 El Nido 2011 Clio (Jumilla). Monastrell (with 30% Cabernet Sauvignon) has rarely

smelled this perfumed, rich and inviting. This is an ultraripe Levante bruiser, with a jammy yet defined structure and huge flavors of baked blackberry, exotic spice, dusty mineral and toasty oak. Herbs, espresso and toast flavors propel this rich red to a lush finish. Drink through 2017. Gil Family Estates. —M.S. abv: 15.5% Price: $45

87 Hilanda 2012 Monastrell (Jumilla). Baked plum and berry aromas come with notes

of leather. This sun-baked red holds onto its acid-ity fairly well. Short berry flavors are pushy, while oak, vanilla, wood resin and leather accents drive a lively, juicy finish. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

87 Monterebro 2012 Selección Syrah (Jumilla). Dark purple in color, this Syrah-led blend

with 15% Monastrell is jammy, toasty, herbal and minty green on the nose. A muscular, rubbery and tannic palate features blackberry flavors backed by a blackened finish of bitter coffee and herbal notes. Pacific Estates. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $18

86 Bodegas Luzón 2013 Luzón (Jumilla). Gamey notes with red berry aromas set up a big,

BUYINGGUIDE


burly, tannic palate. This Monastrell-Syrah blend deals medicinal plum and berry flavors that come with a mildly salty aftertaste. This is drying and lightly herbal on the finish. Aviva Vino. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $9

86 Monterebro 2013 Joven (Jumilla). Cherry, red currant and cranberry aromas are pure

and fruity in front of a tight, bold, hard-driving pal-ate. A short blast of ripe cherry and berry flavors is quickly replaced by toffee and caramel notes, leading to a jammy finish. Pacific Estates. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $9

86 Monterebro 2012 Barrica Monastrell-Syrah (Jumilla). Berry and plum aromas are lightly

earthy, oaky and fiery. A tannic, hard-grabbing pal-ate piles on the astringent tannins, while flavors of herbal berry and minty plum show blatant oak and mint-chocolate on the finish. Pacific Estates. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12

86 Panarroz 2013 Jumilla. Floral red berry aro-mas offer a powdery accent, with a note

of pastry crust. A firm, tight palate delivers a pot-pourri of red berry flavors. This will work best as a lightly chilled simple sipper. Hand Picked Selec-tions. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12

86 Wrongo Dongo 2013 Monastrell (Jumilla). Ripe, loamy blackberry and plum aromas

precede a grabby but mostly fresh palate that’s loaded with sweet, basic flavors of spiced black plum and fig paste. A jammy, warm finish is beefy in size. Fine Estates From Spain. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $9

85 Caracol Serrano 2012 Tinto Monastrell-Syr-ah-Cabernet Sauvignon (Jumilla). Scratchy

plum and cherry aromas come with creamy oak scents. The grippy palate houses harsh tannins, while plum and berry flavors yield to an overriding oak character on the finish. Monastrell, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon comprise the blend. Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

83 Juan Gil 2013 Honoro Vera Monastrell (Jumil-la). Earthy, medicinal plum and berry aro-

mas are also a bit mulchy and leathery in character. A disjointed, tannic palate brings dry oak, medicinal berry and green flavors. Chocolate rises up on the finish of this full bodied Monastrell. Gil Family Es-tates. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $9

81 Bodegas Silvano Garcia 2012 Viña Honda Mon-astrell (Jumilla). Raspberry and red apple

skin aromas are lightly herbal and woodsy. The palate is blazingly acidic and shrill, with tart red

fruit flavors that finish astringent. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

ALICANTE

91 El Sequé 2010 Monastrell (Alicante). This purple-tinted Monastrell offers ripe yet cool

aromas of blackberry and cola that run smooth and long. A deep, bright, juicy palate is weighty but bal-anced. Dark berry flavors are lightly toasted with fine oak, while the finish is bold and fruity. Drink through 2018. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $42

91 Enrique Mendoza 2010 Estrecho Monastrell (Alicante). Broad black fruit aromas show

toasty oak and graphite notes in front of a fresh, fruity, juicy palate. Wild raspberry and boysenberry flavors come with lemony oak and toast accents, while the finish is full in fruit yet crisp and precise. Drink through 2018. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $42

91 Volver 2011 Triga (Alicante). For full review see page 9.

abv: 14.5% Price: $45

90 Enrique Mendoza 2010 Santa Rosa (Ali-cante). This Cabernet Sauvignon-led blend

opens with gritty black fruit aromas accented by licorice, olive and old leather. A racy red fruit palate has plenty of acidic fuel, while flavors of raspberry, red plum and spicy oak eventually turn chocolaty. Fig, herb and tomato flavors add complexity to the finish. Drink through 2019. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $42

VINO DE LA TIERRA DE CASTILLA

87 Sinfonia 2012 Tempranillo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). Spicy, rugged berry aromas an-

nounce a loud palate that’s juicy and brightened by racy acidity. Wild berry and plum flavors finish spicy and fairly long, with no difficulties or edgi-ness. Grapes of Spain. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12

86 Dominio de Eguren 2012 Codice (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). Sweet cherry aromas

turn medicinal on the nose. A bright and lively pal-ate has a fast pulse, while forward berry flavors fade with spice and mild chocolate notes. Fine Estates From Spain. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $10

86 Dominio de Eguren 2012 Protocolo Red (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). Ripe blackberry and

blueberry aromas come with a shade of spearmint. Gritty and mildly tannic on the palate, this wine piles on blackberry and raspberry flavors in front

of a juicy, slightly salty finish. Fine Estates From Spain. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $8

85 Venta Morales 2012 Tempranillo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). Plum and berry aromas

are energetic yet a bit crude on the nose. A mouth-feel driven by grapeskins and tannins is raw but overly astringent. Dark berry flavors lead to a grippy but fresh finish. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $7

VINO DE LA TIERRA DE CASTILLA Y LEÓN

89 Dominio Dostares 2010 Cumal Prieto Picudo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León). This

is an elevated Prieto Picudo showing aromas of leather, exotic spice and blue fruit. A woody, mildly astringent palate brings roasted berry, spice and carob tones, with a fiery menthol finish. Drink now through 2019. Opici Wines. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $44

88 Bodega Melgarajo 2011 Tinto Joven Prieto Picudo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León).

An intriguing brew of raspberry, currant, plum and earthy spice aromas set up a jammy, fat pal-ate. Leather and meat flavors ride over blackberry and spice, with a strong shot of game. This proves that Prieto Picudo can be both wild and appealing. Enotrends LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

88 Bodega Melgarajo 2011 Valdeleña Tinto Roble Prieto Picudo (Vino de la Tierra de

Castilla y León). Leathery and sinewy on the nose, with raspberry, plum and smoky aromas, this wine houses a tight, shallow palate. Flavors of berry and toasty oak finish woody, with chocolate tones bring in the length. Drink now. Enotrends LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20

87 Dominio Dostares 2011 Estay Prieto Picudo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León). Ripe

and cedary on the nose, this Prieto Picudo offers up a strong whiff of spice cake in front of a grippy and astringent palate. Heavily spiced berry flavors are much like Christmas cake, while the finish tastes earthy and roasted. Opici Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $17

85 Tridente 2012 Prieto Picudo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León). This wine shows

earthy and stalky aromas, with a note of spent cof-fee grinds. An awkward palate is home to a baked, heavily oaked flavor profile that includes leather and black fruit flavors supported by gritty tannins. Gil Family Estates. —M.S. abv: 15.5% Price: $30

WINEMAG.COM | 59

BORDEAUXSAINT-ÉMILION

92 Château Villemaurine 2012 Saint-Émilion. This solid and powerful wine comes from a

chateau right in the walls of Saint-Émilion. A dense texture brings out tannins and the wood-aging fla-vors. Spice, black currant fruitiness and a dark, dense character all promise aging. Drink from 2018. Millésima USA. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $40

91 Clos Cantenac 2012 Saint-Émilion. Big and bold, this new-wood-aged wine is developing

well. With mint aromas, coffee and toast on the pal-ate and ripe blackberry fruits, it has a good future. It’s dense, solid and dark in character at this stage. Drink from 2017. Old Bridge Cellars. Cellar Selec-tion. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $75

90 Château la Révérence 2012 Saint-Émilion. A blend of 50/50 Merlot and Cabernet Franc,

this is a rich, spicy and perfumed wine. Layers of wood aging accompany ripe blackberry fruits and dark tannins. The texture is dense and dark, still developing. Drink from 2018. Aquitaine Wine Com-pany. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $41

90 Clos Cantenac 2011 Saint-Émilion. For full review see page 10.

abv: 13% Price: $75

88 Clos Cantenac 2012 Petit Cantenac (Saint-Émilion). Initially a tough proposition, this

young wine then opens up to bring out ripe black-berry fruits, some solid tannins and a juicy charac-ter. It is still firm and dense and needs several years to age, so drink from 2017. Old Bridge Cellars. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $45

87 Les Hauts Croix de Labrie 2012 Saint-Émilion. Young vines have gone into this fruity wine.

It is full and rich in the mouth, with juicy black cur-rant fruits and smoky tannins. The attractive per-fume from Cabernet Franc moves easily into final acidity. Drink from 2017. Pierre Courdurie Selec-tions/Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $45

87 Château Joly 2012 Saint-Émilion. A rounded, mint and wood-flavored wine from the plain

of Saint-Émilion between the city and the river Dordogne. It’s balanced and fruity, with just the right amount of tannin to sustain the black currant flavors. It is maturing and will certainly be ready to drink in 2015. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

86 Barton & Guestier 2013 Passeport (Saint-Émilion). Young, fruity and structured,

this is all about red fruits and firm tannins that are

quickly coming together. Ripe berries and a smoky character give extra interest. Drink now, but it will be better from 2016. Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

86 Château la Révérence 2011 Saint-Émilion. Dark, spicy and dense, the wine feels as

though it has been worked too hard during wine-making. There are dark chocolate flavors, and a bit-ter character. It could soften, although it is likely to remain tough. Aquitaine Wine Company. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

86 Clos Cantenac 2011 Petit Cantenac (Saint-Émilion). The second wine of Clos Cante-

nac is already accessible. With spice, black currant fruits and ripe tannins, it’s both juicy and firmly structured. The wine is balanced, with great acidity at the end contrasting with the tannins. Drink now. Old Bridge Cellars. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $45

85 Château Graves de Rabion 2011 Saint-Émil-ion. Ripe and ready to drink, this attractive

wine has black currant fruitiness and bright acidity. It’s not a powerful wine, more one that carries its fruit easily with only a minimum of structure be-hind it. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

LUSSAC SAINT-ÉMILION

90 Château Bel-Air 2012 Cuvée Jean Gabriel (Lussac Saint-Émilion). Strong spice and

burnt wood aromas are followed by high toast fla-vors. The wine is solid, firm and at this stage just hinting at the ripe fruit underneath, meaning it needs time to open and broaden. Drink this wine with its excellent potential from 2017. Total Wine & More. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $35

90 Château des Landes 2012 Cuvée Prestige (Lussac Saint-Émilion). Produced from old

vines, this is a new-wood-aged, polished and ripe wine. With its juicy black fruits and dark tannins, it is destined for good aging. Spice and a rich texture are working together to broaden and ripen this wine further. Drink from 2017. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $40

89 Château Bel-Air 2012 Lussac Saint-Émilion. The 74 acres of Bel-Air have produced a

firm while juicy wine packed with both tannins and ripe blackberry fruits. The structure and ripe Mer-lot combine easily and suggest good aging. Drink from 2017. Total Wine & More. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

88 Château Les Combes 2010 Lussac Saint-Émilion. Get past the meaty aromas and this

wine is big, ripe and packed with fruit. The firm tan-nins are still very present and likely to remain that way, while the fruit will round out and soften as the

wine matures. Solid and dense, it should be drunk from 2016. Val D’Orbieu Americas. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $30

88 Château Tour de Ségur 2012 Lussac Saint-Émilion. Full of the ripe fruit and structure

of the vintage, this Merlot-dominated wine has big, bold tannins, spice and a dark, firm structure. The jammy fruits are developing well, likely to result in a generous, full-bodied wine from 2017. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

87 Château des Landes 2012 Cuvée Tradition (Lussac Saint-Émilion). Dominated by 80%

Merlot, this ripe and firm wine is full of red berry fruits with a solid, dry core that comes from the fruit tannins. The tannins are still young, still solid, so the wine even with its fruitiness needs to age. Drink from 2016. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

LALANDE DE POMEROL

88 Château des Moines 2012 Lalande de Pomerol. Smooth and perfumed, this is

already drinkable after decanting. With wood ag-ing, dusty tannins and solid black fruits, it is both rich and forward. The tannins and the acidity both promise aging, so while it is ready to drink now, it will be better from 2016. Stephen Augustus Im-ports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $29

88 Château Vieille Dynastie 2012 Lalande de Pomerol. Lalande de Pomerol is the north-

ern extension of Pomerol, so it’s no surprise to find this wine dominated by Merlot. It is soft, rounded and rich. Black plums give the fruitiness while black fruit skins provide the texture. It’s a full wine that needs a little aging. Drink from 2016. Val D’Orbieu Americas. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $33

87 Château Tournefeuille 2012 Lalande de Pomerol. Ripe and fruity, this is an obvi-

ously wood-aged wine. The spice and toast need to calm down and integrate better into the rounded, generous black fruit flavors. With all the elements in place, it just needs time. Drink from 2018. Aqui-taine Wine Company. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $34

86 Château Tournefeuille 2011 Lalande de Pomerol. Soft and rounded, this wine is

finely tuned with acidity and blackberry fruits. It has some firm tannins, although these are well-in-tegrated with the fruit and acidity. This is a wine for medium-term aging, so drink from 2016. Aquitaine Wine Company. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $36

BUYINGGUIDE


CADILLAC CÔTES DE BORDEAUX

90 Château Courrèges 2010 Cap de Fer (Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux). Old Malbec vines form

the basis of this structured, firm and tannic wine. It has weight and richness, concentrated juiciness and black fruits that reveal the density and struc-ture of the vintage. While all this power is going on, the wine also has a style and elegance that can only improve with time. Drink from 2017. DM Vineyards & Partners. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

86 Château du Tasta 2009 Grande Réserve (Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux). Dense and

richly smooth, this displays all the fruit and gener-ous texture of a 2009. It’s now maturing well with its blackberry fruitiness, sweet tannins and light acidity. Drink now and until 2020. Marsalle/Stoler Company. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

83 Château l’Escart 2012 Cuvée Puits du Roy (Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux). Strong wood

flavors have smothered the fruit, leaving vanilla, spice and milk chocolate as the main flavors. Gérard Laurent blends 65% Cabernet Franc and 35% Mal-bec from biodynamic and organic vineyards in egg-shaped Apollo flexitanks where the wine matures for a year. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 14.1% Price: $22

CÔTES DE BOURG

89 Château Macay 2011 Classic (Côtes de Bourg). Showing some maturity, this wine offers a

typical Bordeaux blend dominated by Merlot, along with some Malbec to give color and tannin. It’s rich, fruity and ripe. Black fruits and aromatic acidity are supplemented by the light wood aging and smoky character apparent in the aftertaste. Drink from 2016. Val D’Orbieu Americas. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

89 Château Tour de Cazelle 2012 Côtes de Bourg. This dense wine features dark tannins and

rich blackberry and plum fruits that convey a solid character. The wine is developing well, with tan-nins merging into the general fruitiness. Age for a few months more and drink from late 2015. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

87 Château Lion Noir 2012 Lion des Aubrots (Côtes de Bourg). With an unusually high

amount (30%) of Malbec in the blend, this is a structured, firm wine. A light wood aging has helped to smooth it out, bringing out the blackberry fruit flavors. Made from organically grown grapes, it is dense and needs to age. Drink from 2017. Superior Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR

90 Château du Bois Chantant 2012 Cuvée Lau-rence H. (Bordeaux Supérieur). For full re-

view see page 14. Best Buy. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

90 Château de Parenchère 2012 Cuvée Raphaël (Bordeaux Supérieur). Solid and balanced,

this has both great fruits and a great structure. Dense, rich and layered with tannins and black cur-rant fruits, it has an opulent, ripe character. Drink this solid, attractive wine from 2017. The Country Vintner. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $24

90 Château Feret Lambert 2012 Bordeaux Su-périeur. With 15 months wood aging, this

is a powerful wood-aged wine. Black currant fruits from the 39% Cabernet Sauvignon dominate. Soft tannins are doing a great job of supporting the natu-ral fruitiness, bringing out a good sense of concen-tration. Warm and ripe, it will develop well. Drink from 2017 Grantham Distributing. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

90 Château Feret Lambert 2012 Costes du Châ-teau Feret Lambert (Bordeaux Supérieur).

With a dominance (90%) of Merlot, this wood-aged bottling is the second wine from Feret-Lambert. Rich and juicy, it offers soft tannins and full-bodied black fruits. A firmer structure underneath this ripe character will allow it to age. Round and generous, it will be best from 2017. JF Wine Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

90 Château Floreal Lauguens 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. For full review see page 10. Edi-

tors’ Choice. abv: 13% Price: $17

90 Château Grand Jean 2012 Bordeaux Supéri-eur. Packed with fruit and lively acidity,

this has a generous character overlying a more se-rious tannic structure. As they develop, these two elements are going to coalesce and produce a dense wine. Wait until 2017. Direct Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $16

90 Château Mirefleurs 2012 Bordeaux Supéri-eur. For full review see page 10. Editors’


90 Château Recougne 2012 Bordeaux Supéri-eur. Spicy, ripe and fruity, this wine has

enough structure to give shape to the broad black fruits that are the stars. A smoky element comes from just the right amount of wood aging. Drink from 2017. Vintus LLC. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $18

89 Château du Lort 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. Plenty of ripe berry fruit gives a wine that’s

generous. It has a firmer tannic structure, a dry character that needs to soften. Bold and rich, it will be at its best from 2017. Luneau USA Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

89 Château Fleur Haut Gaussens 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. This balanced, solid wine is dark

with tannins and rich fruits. The juicy, fruity ele-ment will take time to manifest itself. Give this complete wine until 2017. Aquitaine Wine Com-pany. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

89 Château Les Gravières de la Brandille 2010 Bordeaux Supérieur. There is no question

about the richness and structure of this powerful wine. The 2010 vintage has brought that out in ev-ery Bordeaux. Here is shows in the rich blackberry fruits, the dense tannins and the general ripeness of the wine. Wait until late 2015 to drink. Val D’Orbieu Americas. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $28

89 Château Mirambeau Papin 2010 Bordeaux Supérieur. While the alcohol is high and the

wine powerful, it has managed to retain its linear, structured character. The result is a concentrated wine that also has acidity and a juicy blackberry fruit character. It does need to age, so don’t drink before 2016. DM Vineyards & Partners. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

89 Château Saincrit 2012 Réserve (Bordeaux Supérieur). While the wood aging and toast

do show, this wine is also rich. Black fruits give a juicy, flavorsome character, an opulence that is fin-ished with some acidity. Drink from 2016. Road-house Wine Merchants. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $21

89 Château Sainte Barbe 2012 Bordeaux Supéri-eur. Very spicy, this wine is just on the edge

of being too toasty. Luckily, the fruit is there as well, a rich medley of blackberry and currant flavors that counterpoint the wood. Wait and drink from 2018. AHD Vintners. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $23

88 Château Clos Moulin Pontet 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. Eric Meynaud runs this 233-acre

family property, having taken over from his father in 1998. Ripe, bold and fruity, this solid, dense wine has layers of black fruits that go with the firmer structure. Excellent acidity gives a lift to the wine and leaves a fresh aftertaste. Drink from 2017. Fred-erick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

88 Château de la Cour d’Argent 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. While the wine has plenty of tan-

nins, it also has juicy black fruits that more than balance the structure. It’s a well-made, ripe wine that has a sweep of fruitiness. From 2018, the tan-

WINEMAG.COM | 61

nins will be fully integrated. Specialty Wine Co. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20

88 Château de Seguin 2012 Carpe Diem (Bor-deaux Supérieur). Ripe Merlot gives a juicy

character to this rounded wine that comes from the heart of the Entre-deux-Mers region. The 18th-cen-tury chateau is named after one of the lieutenants who fought with the Emperor Charlemagne. With a touch of cinnamon and nutmeg, the wine is gener-ous and attractive. The tannins form a solid layer without impeding the fruitiness. Drink from 2016. Plume Ridge . —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

88 Château des Arras 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. Firm in character, this is also a ripe and

juicy wine with great tannic structure that gives a solid feel. Berry fruits show strongly along with juicy acidity. Wait for this wine with potential until 2017. Roadhouse Wine Merchants. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

88 Château Donjon de Bruignac 2012 Bruignac Premium (Bordeaux Supérieur). Rich, full of

black currant fruitiness and ripe tannins, this wine is solid, structured and foursquare in character. The Donjon of Bruignac, dating from 1300, has been owned by only two families since then. Drink the wine from 2017. IPO Wines. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $21

88 Château Feret Lambert 2012 La Croix (Bor-deaux Supérieur). Firm fruits and structure

give a dense, solid character that is rich and full. Plenty of black fruits are developing as the wine ma-tures. Wait until 2017. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

88 Château la France 2012 Cuvée Gallus (Bor-deaux Supérieur). Stern and structured

at this early stage, this wine is developing slowly. It is potentially powerful and ripe, with its layers of dark fruits and tannins ready to mature and in-tegrate. Give this solid wine until 2017. Visitors to the vineyard will see a large metallic sculpture of a rooster, one of France’s national symbols. Plume Ridge . —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

88 Château Landereau 2012 Bordeaux Supéri-eur. This fruity wine offers attractive acid-

ity and light tannins. It’s perfumed, hinting at mint and eucalyptus, a wine that is smooth and polished. Drink from 2016. Hand Picked Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

88 Château Lauduc 2012 Prestige (Bordeaux Supérieur). This is the top wine from Lau-

duc, aged for 12 months in wood. It’s solid with dark tannins, layers of toast that are balanced by ripe black fruits. Rich and juicy, it needs time to develop. Drink from 2017. Zachy’s. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

88 Château Queyssard 2012 Bordeaux Supéri-eur. From a property owned by the Massé

family since 1868, the 2012 Queyssard is big and juicy. Already attractive, it has plenty of fresh acid-ity as well as dark tannins that will mature. Ripe fruit contributes to a balanced wine that can age. Drink from 2016. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

88 Château Timberlay 2012 Bordeaux Supéri-eur. Red berry fruits are the dominant char-

acter of this full and ripe wine. The judicious wood aging gives a base for its generous character. Tim-berlay, dating back to the 14th century and family owned, is capable of producing a rich and juicy wine that is going to age well. Drink from 2016. Terlato Wines International. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

87 Arnozan 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. The wine is closed up and tough. That’s no bad thing

because the fruit weight is all there. The tannins are dense at the moment, showing signs of hard extrac-tion, not enough to take away from the potential. Drink from 2017. PG Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $10

87 Château de Bonhoste 2012 Bordeaux Supéri-eur. The wine is rich, full of black currant

fruitiness and ripe tannins. It’s solid, structured and balanced. Produced from 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernets, it is slow in developing, still full of tan-nins. Drink from 2017. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

87 Château de Lisennes 2012 Cuvée Prestige (Bordeaux Supérieur). This structured wine

is slow to show its fruity side, although it has a layer of acidity with hints of black fruits. At the moment it is firm and dry, with dense tannins and a dark aftertaste. Wait until 2017. Grape News Importing. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20

87 Château de Parenchère 2012 Bordeaux Su-périeur. Warm and fruity, this is just what

this style of wine should be. Red fruits, soft tannins and a generous, juicy character are already giving pleasure. Drink from 2015. The Country Vintner. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

87 Château Haut Bessac 2012 Bordeaux Supéri-eur. Ripe and full in the mouth, this rich

wine features juicy black fruits and aromatic acid-ity. Piled high with berry flavors, it’s ready to drink. Serendipity Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

87 Château l’Escart 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. With plenty of wood flavors, this structured

wine has an almost sweet touch. From biodynami-cally grown fruit, it has a concentrated character as well as a more extracted and dry edge that needs

to soften. Drink from 2017. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

87 Château La Rose du Pin 2012 Bordeaux Su-périeur. The tannins are solid here, a dark,

dense and smoky layer that gives a tough feel while still allowing room for the weight of fruit that is de-veloping. A spicy character at the end adds interest. Drink from 2016. Laville Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

87 Château Pas de Rauzan 2012 Bordeaux Su-périeur. Firm and dense, the wine is domi-

nated by its tannic structure. The lean and austere character will probably always remain although hints of juicy fruits appear at the end. Paustis Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

87 Domaine du Claouset 2012 Réserve (Bor-deaux Supérieur). Black berry flavors are

ripe and rich in this attractive wine that already has a balance between its acidity, structure and fruit. It’s also dense and full in the mouth, just supported by a drier element. Drink from 2016. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

86 Avant-Garde 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. This smooth, rich blend is dominated by ripe

Cabernet Sauvignon. Wood aging has smoothed out the tannic character of the fruits and added an at-tractive smoky element. It is soft, ripe and ready to drink. Val D’Orbieu Americas. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

86 Château Bois de Rolland 2012 Cuvée Pres-tige (Bordeaux Supérieur). Ripe berry fruits

shine through this wine. Supported by the tannins, they give a solid and rich character that is begin-ning to develop. With a dark aftertaste, this wine has potential and will be best from 2017. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25

86 Château Brande-Bergère 2012 Cuvée O’Byrne (Bordeaux Supérieur). Juicy black

fruits give a great start, supported by the tannins that kick in. Ripe, full of flavor and generous, this is a broad, full-bodied wine. Drink from 2016. The Barterhouse. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25

86 Château de Bel 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. Ripe and juicy, this offers bright acidity and

ripe, soft tannins. It’s a generous wine, full of black currant fruits and conveying a sweet character. It’s to drink soon. Wine Warehouse Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

86 Château de Bel 2012 La Capitane (Bordeaux Supérieur). Ripe and juicy, this is perfumed,

full of red berry flavor and attractively soft tannins.

BUYINGGUIDE


The wine feels broad and rich, ready to drink from 2015. Joanne Bordeaux USA. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20

86 Château de la Vieille Tour 2011 Réserve (Bor-deaux Supérieur). The wine is ripe and juicy

with attractive soft tannins. It is generous and warm in the mouth, a full burst of red berries. It does have a structure, so it will be better in time. Best to give it until 2016. The Biz Jar. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $24

86 Château Haut Saint Martin 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. With acidity and black fruits,

this is a wine with potential. For now, it is layered with tough tannins that are suppressing the fruit. Wait and allow the wine to show its juicy black fla-vors. Drink from 2017. Vintus LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

86 Château Julian 2012 Alter Ego (Bordeaux Su-périeur). Ripe and fruity, this rounded, open

wine reveals its fruit quickly. Red berries and soft tannins complete the character to give a bright wine that will be ready to drink mid-2015. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

86 Château Lajarre 2010 Cuvée Eléonore (Bor-deaux Supérieur). Across the river Dordo-

gne from Castillon, the vineyard of Lajarre is on the first slope. This soft and ripe wine has black currant fruitiness, fresh acidity and a judicious use of wood aging. It still shows the structure of 2010, so will be better from 2015. Marsalle/Stoler Company. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

86 Château Maison Noble 2012 Bordeaux Su-périeur. The wood shows strongly, giving

a caramel and spice character that dominates the fruit. The suggestion of juiciness offers a hint for the future. It does have the weight, so wait until 2017. Jassal Liquor Distributors. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

86 Château Maucaillou 2012 Château de Be-aurivage (Bordeaux Supérieur). While the

wood aging and toast do show, this is also a rich-enough wine. Black fruits give a juicy, flavorsome character, an opulence that is finished with some acidity. Drink from 2016. Duclot La Vinicole. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20

86 Château Ouvrard 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. Red berry fruits are attractive against the

backdrop of tannins. The wine has a good juicy ele-ment and acidity. The tannins, a little tough at the moment, will provide a bold and firm structure from 2017. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

86 Château Tayet 2012 Cuvée Prestige (Bor-deaux Supérieur). The wine has a tough ex-

terior, firmly wedded to tannins at this stage. With

suggestions of Merlot and juicy berry flavors, it will balance out. Private Reserve. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $35

86 Cru Lagaillarde 2010 Bordeaux Supérieur. A seriously rich and spicy wine, heavily struc-

tured and dense. It has gone from generous to over the top, giving a powerhouse of fruit and tannins that stretches the boundaries of its structure. It’s for those who like super-rich Bordeaux. DM Vine-yards & Partners. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

86 Kirkland Signature 2012 Château de Marsan (Bordeaux Supérieur). Firm and hard-edged

this wine is currently tough. The fruit—black cur-rant and berry—will bring out the potential rich-ness. It’s structured for the moment, but wait until 2017. Costco. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

86 Vignerons de Puisseguin Saint-Emilion 2012 Champ de Fleuret (Bordeaux Supérieur).

This solid wine is full of tannins while also having fruit potential. Red berries and acidity are begin-ning to assert themselves with the tougher tannic edge. Drink from 2017. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

85 Château de Reignac 2012 Bordeaux Supéri-eur. This soft wine offers black fruits as

much as tannins. It has a rich feel, generous and rounded. Developing fast it will be ready from 2015. K&L Wine Merchants. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $24

85 Château Julian 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. Firm and dense, the wine is dominated by

its tannic structure. It has a lean and austere char-acter that will probably always remain, although there are hints of juicy fruits at the end. Ararat Im-port/Export Co. LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $16

85 Château la Croix de Roche 2012 Bordeaux Su-périeur. This is a spicy, ripe wine with some

firm tannins. Black currant flavors and good acidity give a rich feel, and a jammy element comes from the ripe fruits. The wine is developing fast, so drink from 2016. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

85 Château la Favière 2012 Bordeaux Supéri-eur. The wine is all about juiciness and ripe

fruit. It has a good balance between this fruitiness and the tannins, giving a wine that is open and gen-erous. It is developing fast, so drink from 2016. JP Bourgouis. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

85 Château Lamothe-Vincent 2012 Héritage (Bordeaux Supérieur). This is fruity and

juicy with tannins that are still hard. It will come together because the fruit is ripe enough. Red berry

flavors are developing well, so wait until 2016 for the wine to come round. Laville Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $17

85 Château Mougneaux 2012 Bordeaux Supéri-eur. Chocolate and bitter coffee show the

way this wine has been extracted, leaving a hard edge that currently dominates the red berry fruits. It needs time to soften, so wait until 2017. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

85 Château Pey la Tour 2012 Réserve (Bordeaux Supérieur). Black fruits and tannins are

dominant in this tough, reticent wine. With a solid structure, it’s balanced, with good acidity at the end. Thiénot USA. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $19

85 Château Roquefort 2012 Château Domi-Cours (Bordeaux Supérieur). A fruity wine

that is soft and round, it’s light and bright with its acidity and berry fruits. It’s not for aging and will be attractive from 2015. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $23

84 Château Beaulieu Comtes de Tastes 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. This is fruity, although

somwhat direct in character. It has structured tan-nins and juicy yet indistinct black fruits. Wine Warehouse Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

84 Château Bel-Air 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. This has a curious caramel aroma from the

wood aging. It’s tough and extracted, a powerhouse of hard tannins without enough fruit. Total Wine & More. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $12

84 Château Mirambeau Papin 2009 Papin Pe-tite Verdot (Bordeaux Supérieur). IToo much

wood aging has masked the potential of the juicy black fruits of this unusual 100% Petit Verdot wine. It does have weight but that wood is overwhelming. DM Vineyards & Partners. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $25

84 Château Sainte Marie 2012 Vieilles Vignes (Bordeaux Supérieur). Tight tannins mark

this wine. It does have an attractive red fruit layer, although it feels light on fruit and heavy on tannins. Polaner Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

84 Château Tour d’Auron 2012 Bordeaux Su-périeur. The wine is tough with an obvious

wood aging character. At the same time, it has a generous potential, full of ripe black fruits. Together they mean a wine that will need some time, so wait until 2017. Vintus LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

84 Château Trocard les Chapelles 2012 Bor-deaux Supérieur. Soft, juicy and ready to

drink with its berry fruits and rounded tannins, it’s

WINEMAG.COM | 63

an open wine, with only a light tannin character. Next Level Spirits. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

84 Lestonnat 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. This structured wine is slow to show its fruity

side although it has a layer of acidity with hints of black fruits. It is firm and dry at the moment with dense tannins and a dark aftertaste. Wait until 2017. NakedWines.com. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $16

83 Château Belrose 2012 Cuvée Maucaillou (Bor-deaux Supérieur). This is a hard-edged wine

with a chemical character. It’s tough both in tannins and extracted fruits. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

83 Château Damase 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. The fruit is extremely extracted, making for

a wine that is tough, very firm and hard without the juicy character needed to see it through. Vintus LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

83 Château de la Vieille Tour 2012 Bordeaux Su-périeur. This is hard and tough, all tannins

and extraction. Wine Traditions. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

83 Château Larteau 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. Bread and yeasty aromas lead to a wine that

has tannins and wood aging, leaving the fruitiness behind. K&L Wine Merchants. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $15

83 Chateau le Grand Verdus 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. This tough wine seems light on

fruit. It is hard and shows considerable extraction. Petit Pois. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

83 Château Penin 2012 Les Cailloux (Bordeaux Supérieur). The wine is extracted and hard.

It has a tough character along with some bitterness. Bayfield Importing Ltd. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

83 Domaine de Courteillac 2012 Bordeaux Su-périeur. With a high proportion of Cabernet

in the blend, this holds tough tannins. There is also juicy Merlot that offers an attractive, fruity future. The Country Vintner-Craft and Estate. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

BORDEAUX

88 Château Bel Air Perponcher 2012 Réserve (Bordeaux). This wine has dark tannins and

considerable wood flavor at this stage. The struc-ture and the weight are all there, allowing the fruit and rich texture to develop. Drink from 2017. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $14

88 Château de Sours 2011 Bordeaux. Rich and juicy, this is a luscious, full wine. It has lay-

ers of black currants fruitiness along with a solid structure that is still developing. The wine is ripe, packed with fruity Merlot and developing well. Drink from 2016. Old Bridge Cellars. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

88 Château du Pin Franc 2012 Bordeaux. At this stage, the wine is dry and firm. However,

the weight and richness are all there. Give it another year, and all the suppressed fruit will come through. Drink this solid wine from 2016. Serge Doré Selec-tions. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $10

88 Château Julian 2012 Bordeaux. Mint per-fumes show the wood aging of this struc-

tured wine. It does have plenty of red fruits along with juicy acidity and a lively bright aftertaste. Fresh and fruity at the end, this is ready to drink from 2015. Ararat Import/Export Co. LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $13

88 Chateau Les Maurins 2012 Bordeaux. The wine is ripe and full of fruit. The tannins act

as a good foil to the generous fruitiness and bright acidity. The texture is dense, solid and full in the mouth. Drink this well-balanced wine from 2016. Les Grands Chais de France Americas. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

88 Château Puy-Marceau 2012 Bordeaux. There is a good texture to this rich wine that has

spice, wood aging and black fruits. With its firm texture and rich fruits, it will be a generous wine from late 2015. Wine Warehouse Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $13

88 Château Roc de Minvielle 2012 Bordeaux. This ripe and smoky wine is full of black

currant and spice. The tannins are firm while not taking away from the big, generous fruits and crisp acidity. It’s a wine that will age, best drunk from 2016. LVC Las Vegas Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

88 Château Roquefort 2012 Bordeaux. Rich and round, this attractive wine has generous

tannins and equally generous fruit. Black currants shine with their acidity while the texture is firm and solid. This is a wine with a future; drink from 2016. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

88 Château Thieuley 2012 Bordeaux. While the initial impression is of a tough wine, a soft

heart of red fruits is developing well. The potential is for balance and juicy acidity while keeping good structure. Drink from 2016. Calvert Woodley Fine Wines & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

88 Le Bord’eau du Clos des Moiselles 2012 Bor-deaux. While the wine is structured and

firm at the moment, it also has a solid character with plenty of berry fruits that are waiting to come through. It is smoky, fruity and likely to be ready to drink from 2016. OSWinestrade. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $14

87 Château Bonnet 2012 Bordeaux. A smoky, wood-aged wine with both structure and

good fruitiness. Red currants and attractive berry fruits are developing well to give both fresh acid-ity and a ripe feel. Drink from 2016. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

87 Château de l’Aubrade 2012 Bordeaux. With big tannins and dark fruits, this powerful

wine has weight, a rich character and solid struc-ture. For the moment, it is dry and tough. From 2016, it will show its black fruits as well as its tan-nins. Grape Expectations (CA). —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

87 Château de Sours 2012 Bordeaux. This ripe and smoky wine has some firm tannins

while bringing out bright berry fruits. It’s smooth and balanced, the structure enough to sustain the polished surface. Acidity at the end, along with the tannins, promise aging. Drink from the end of 2015. Old Bridge Cellars. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

87 Château de Sours 2012 La Fleur d’Amélie (Bordeaux). New wood shows strongly in

this smoky wine with burnt wood overtones. Fruit weight behind it holds hints of black currants and acidity. Allow this solid offering time to soften and mold itself into a structured wine. Drink from 2016. Old Bridge Cellars. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

87 Château Donjon de Bruignac 2012 Bordeaux. Structured while also fruity, this gives im-

mediate pleasure. Berry fruits gleam through the drier tannic structure while the acidity is comfort-ably in balance with the rest of the wine. Drink from late 2015. IPO Wines. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

87 Château du Barry 2012 Bordeaux. Ripe and fruity, this has the right amount of structure

to hold everything together. It’s a bold, rounded wine, acidity layering red fruits and a darker tan-nic aftertaste. Drink from 2016. Misa Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $12

87 Château Fonfroide 2012 Bordeaux. Struc-tured and firm, it also has ripe, jammy

fruitiness pushing through the structure. Fragrant red fruits are already shining well. It needs time to develop more, so wait until 2016. Advantage Inter-national. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

BUYINGGUIDE


87 Château La Caussade 2012 Grande Réserve (Bordeaux). This is a rich, smoky wine,

full of gentle tannins and smooth black fruits. It is rounded, soft with warm tannins and generous fruitiness. Drink from 2016. Atlanta Improvement Co. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

87 Château La Rose Saint Germain 2012 Bor-deaux. This wine that comes from 62 acres

of vines has a dry undertow. It has a strongly tan-nic base over which the fruits are blossoming. Good acidity gives the necessary freshness. The balance at the end is excellent, promising reasonable aging. Drink from 2016. HP Selections. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

87 Château Lamothe 2012 Bordeaux. While the wine is defined by its tannins at this stage,

it does have good fruitiness. Blackberry flavors are developing well, giving a strong future and bringing the wine into balance. Drink from 2016. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

87 Château Pilet 2012 Bordeaux. Smoky while also fresh, this is an attractively balanced

wine. Red berries are cut with fresher black cur-rants and given a structure with tannins. It is ready to drink, although it will be better from late 2015. Canals Bottlestop. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

87 Château Rauzan Despagne 2012 Réserve (Bordeaux). Wood aromas feed through to

the taste of the wine. Still young, it is more about wooden planks than about fruit at this stage. It does have enough weight of fruit under the wood to balance out. Keep at least until 2016. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $13

87 Roche Darjac 2012 Bordeaux. This is smooth, softly textured and round. A more stalky ele-

ment comes from the black currant skin flavors and integrates with the light tannins. It gives a gentle structure to this ready-to-drink wine. Val D’Orbieu Americas. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

87 Château Sainte-Barbe 2012 Merlot de Sainte-Barbe (Bordeaux). Strong wood aromas are

more than compensated for by the ripe fruits and generous character of the wine. It is a solid effort, full of both fruit and rich texture. Drink from 2016. Swiss Cellars. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

87 Château Tour de Mirambeau 2012 Bordeaux. Spicy wood adds to the fresh berry fruits

that show strongly. With acidity balanced by the smoky flavors, it’s a light, bright wine that will be ready to drink soon. Think about late 2015. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $16

87 Exem 2012 Bordeaux. With firm tannins al-lied to smooth wood flavors, this young wine

is going to develop its fruitiness over the next year. It has a ripe body, black fruits in the back waiting to come forward. Wait to drink until 2016. Winesellers Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $13

87 Les Parcelles de Stéphane Derenoncourt 2012 Bordeaux. Rich and smooth, this solid, ripe

wine offers a good sense of structure. It has weight, dense tannins and a creamy texture. Drink from 2015. The House Of Burgundy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

86 Baron Philippe de Rothschild 2012 Réserve Mouton Cadet (Bordeaux). This solid,

wood-aged wine is a step up from the standard Mouton Cadet blend. Dense and tannic, it offers a good core of black and red fruits and acidity. Made to be drunk young, it could still age until 2016. Mouton Cadet USA. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

86 Château Bellevue 2012 Bordeaux. Showing firm tannins and structure this is currently

a tough wine. It has a solid character although plen-ty of hints of juicy red berry fruits are ready to come out as the wine ages. Drink from late 2015. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $12

86 Château Bois Pertuis 2012 Bordeaux. A for-ward, fruity wine that just hints at spice

and toast. It is broad and ripe, with plenty of berry fruits and acidity well in balance. It’s developing fast and will be ready to drink from late 2015. Ad-vantage International. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

86 Château Bonnet 2011 Bordeaux. This is a juicy, fruity wine with a touch of spice.

The wood aging is still showing strongly, imparting a smoky character. Black currant fruits are just as important and they give the wine its bright, crisp aftertaste. Drink now. Deutsch Family Wine & Spir-its. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

86 Château de Bel 2012 Echappée Bel (Bor-deaux). This solid, structured wine brings

out plenty of red fruits and acidity while also main-taining a full texture. It will age quickly, becoming attractive and fruity from 2015. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

86 Château Lamothe-Vincent 2012 Intense (Bordeaux). This fruity wine also has some

structure. Balanced with touches of wood as well as red berry and damson fruits, it has acidity and a firm texture in the background. Drink from 2016. Laville Imports. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $14

86 Château Mazetier 2012 Tradition (Bor-deaux). Still young and fruity, this is a

bright, crisp wine packed with red berry fruit fla-vors. A smoky character underlies the fruit, allow-ing some toast and spice to come through. Drink from 2016. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $12

86 Château Mémoires 2012 Bordeaux. This fruity wine is laden with red berries and

acidity. The structure is ancillary to the fruit thrust, giving a base for the attractive fresh character and the freshness of the aftertaste. Drink now. Vineyard Research. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

86 Château Penin Natur 2012 Bordeaux. The wine is rich, full of berry fruits that are also

touched by damsons. It has spice, some toast and a smooth texture. Plenty of jammy fruit indicate good potential. Drink from 2016. Spec’s. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $19

86 Château Pey la Tour 2012 Bordeaux. The wine is rich with generous red berry fruit

flavors and balanced acidity. The tannins have been smoothed and given a round character, full of both fruit and a ripe structure. Thiénot USA. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

86 Domaine du Cheval Blanc 2012 Bordeaux. There is plenty of fruit here, juicy red ber-

ries and acidity. The tannins still need time to soft-en to give the wine a sense of fruit and character. Wait until 2016. Advantage International. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

86 Dourthe 2012 La Grande Cuvée (Bordeaux). Juicy and very fruity, the wine is packed

with red berry flavors and acidity. A touch of spice adds interest. The end is all about the crisp fruits and the lively, fresh character. Thiénot USA. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $13

85 Baron Philippe de Rothschild 2012 Mou-ton Cadet (Bordeaux). The fruitiness and

structure of the vintage show well in this red berry flavored wine. A dry core of tannin gives a light structure and brings out acidity. It’s ready to drink. Mouton Cadet USA. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

85 Château Bellevue 2013 Bordeaux. A smooth, lightly wood-aged wine that has soft tannins

and good berry fruits. Black currant and a stalky texture show the light and fresh character of this only lightly tannic wine. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $12

85 Château de Costis 2012 Bordeaux. The tannins are still dominant in this wine.

The fruit seems light and crisp while never likely to leave the tannins behind. The acidity shines

WINEMAG.COM | 65

through more strongly, giving attractive final fresh-ness. Laville Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $12

85 Château de Lisennes 2012 Bordeaux. The wine is all fruit, red berries and fresh acidi-

ty. There is a light touch here, maybe missing out on tannins and structure, but bringing out juicy flavors and a crisp aftertaste. Grape News Importing. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

85 Château de Sours 2011 La Fleur d’Amélie (Bordeaux). Earthy aromas lead to a wine

that is at a stage of development that suppresses fruit. The wood aging and the extracted structure are still strong. Hints of juicy black fruits emerge, promising a good, if tannic future. Wait until 2017. Old Bridge Cellars. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

85 Château Garrineau 2012 Bordeaux. A ripe and smooth wine that brings out all the

fruitiness of the vintage. Just enough structure gives the wine shape, while yielding pride of place to the juicy fruits and attractive berry flavors. Drink now. Vinum Distribution Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

85 Château Haut Brande 2012 Bordeaux. This juicy wine has red berry flavors and a sense

of structure. Smoky with a firm tannic aftertaste, it has weight and a dark, dense aftertaste. Lieber Bros Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $12

85 Château Haut Cormier 2010 Bordeaux. Rich while still tannic and stalky, this wine from

a producer in the Blaye region has the structure and tannins of 2010. A dry texture over the ripe full plum fruits suggests it will still develop. The end of the wine is firm. Cutting Edge Selections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $20

85 Château les Arromans 2012 Cuvée Prestige (Bordeaux). Jammy and fruity, this gener-

ous wine is cut with red berry acidity. The soft tex-ture and ripe flavors impart an almost sweet char-acter. It is ready to drink. Elite Wines Import. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $16

85 Château Pierrousselle 2012 Bordeaux. Bright and fresh, this fruity wine has the softest

tannins and juicy acidity. It’s packed with red fruits with a lively character and a perfumed aftertaste. Drink now. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

85 Château Thieuley 2012 Réserve Francis Cour-selle (Bordeaux). Smoky aromas presage

a wine that has too much wood. Although there is fruit, it’s hard to find it with all the burnt toast fla-vors. Perhaps wait before drinking, although that wood will always be there. Calvert Woodley Fine Wines & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

85 Prince Rubis 2012 Bordeaux. Ripe and per-fumed, this is soft and full of berries, with a

smooth, rounded character that is just toasty. Tan-nins are there, but only in moderation. Drink now. Private Reserve. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

84 Château Coustaut la Grangeotte 2012 Bor-deaux. Stalky and full of black currant fla-

vors, this is a fruity, lightly tannic wine. The core is dry and firm while allowing full expression for the acidity and fresh aftertaste. Drink now. Victoire Im-ports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

84 Château de la Bouyère 2012 Bordeaux. Fresh, light and juicy, this wine is ready to drink.

Lively and crisp, it has such soft tannins and fresh acidity. There is little in the way of structure or po-tential, so drink now. Slocum & Sons, Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $8

84 Château Joinin 2012 Bordeaux. With toasty aromas and flavors, this wine is all about

smoky burnt wood, only hinting at a fruity future. Keep it until 2016, although the wood is not going away. Masciarelli Wine Co. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

84 Château Larroque 2012 Bordeaux. The wine is all about juicy fruit, only lightly hinting

at a structure. It’s immediately attractive wine and ready to drink now. Baystate Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $16

84 Château Lauduc 2012 Classic (Bordeaux). Full of red berry fruits, this has some at-

tractive fresh acidity to add to the light, bright feel. With its soft aftertaste, it is ready to drink now. Zachy’s. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $13

84 Château les Terrasses de Bouey 2012 Bor-deaux. Stalky black currant fruits dominate

this wine. It has acidity, juicy fruitiness and a dry, tight aftertaste. It’s not for long aging. Cutting Edge Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

84 Esprit de Gombeauds 2012 Bordeaux. Light and fruity, this red berry, stalky flavored

wine is crisp with acidity and soft tannins. It’s de-veloping fast and will be ready to drink from 2015. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

84 Grand Bourgeau 2012 Réserve (Bordeaux). The wine is perfumed, structured and

showing strong wood aging flavors. It lacks fruit, giving a tough character and leaving a highly aro-matic aftertaste. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $23

84 Les Allées de Moron 2012 Bordeaux. Light and fresh, this is crisp and ready to drink.

With the lightest of tannins, it’s more about juicy fruitiness with a bright aftertaste. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

84 Mission St Vincent 2012 Bordeaux. Red berry fruits are right up front in this juicy, fruity

wine without great sense of structure. No matter, it’s attractive and fresh now, ready to drink. Mul-tiple U.S. importers. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

84 VIgnobles Ducourt 2012 Réserve de la Famille (Bordeaux). This aromatic wine is

at the same time structured and tough. Its redeem-ing feature is the berry fruit layer that is waiting to show through from 2015. BNP Distributing. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $25

83 Château Briot 2012 Bordeaux. Herbal aro-mas give a crisp character. The fruit is not

entirely ripe, so the wine relies on its tannins and acidity to get balance. Europvin USA. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

83 Château de Crain 2012 Bordeaux. A light and fruity wine that is ready to drink. From the

heart of the Entre-deux-Mers region, it has red ber-ry fruits and juicy acidity. A greener, herbal charac-ter in the background suggests grapes that weren’t totally ripe at harvest. Val D’Orbieu Americas. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $19

83 Château Grand Jean 2012 Bordeaux. High levels of acidity suggest the fruit was not

ripe. It has a green, herbal character, very juicy and fresh. BNP Distributing. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $13

83 Ginestet 2012 Bordeaux. This is a structured wine, with too many tannins from wood and

fruit. The red berry fruits are likely always to re-main second to the structure. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $14

83 Léo de la Gaffelière 2012 Bordeaux. This is a thin wine with way too much acidity for the

fruit. The rest of the wine is dry tannin that could soften into a more juicy character. It’s always going to be a light wine. Luneau USA Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $12

82 Château Haut Roudier 2012 Bordeaux. Crisp fruitiness and acidity show the fruit is not

ripe. It’s a herbal and stalky. Vintus LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

82 Château Mezain 2012 Bordeaux. Dry tannins and wood flavors give a hard character. It’s

tough to see beyond the wine’s dryness and find the fruit. Advantage International. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $13

BUYINGGUIDE


81 Château Moulin de Mallet 2012 Bordeaux. Meat and bacon aromas lead to a dry, tannic

wine. It only hints at a fruity future. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

OTHER RED WINES

92 Château Dutruch Grand Poujeaux 2012 Mou-lis-en-Médoc. This is turning into an im-

pressive wine as it finds its way between solid tan-nins and ripe, full black fruits. It is dark and dense at this stage with tannins that dominate. A more juicy character will develop as the wine ages. Drink from 2017. Calvert Woodley Fine Wines & Spirits. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $29

90 Château La Grange Clinet 2012 Grande Réserve (Côtes de Bordeaux). For full re-

view see page 14. Best Buy. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

90 Château Pilet 2012 Cuvée Prestige (Côtes de Bordeaux). Big and bold, this is going to

be an impressive Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon blend from a 2.5-acre plot on the Queyrens family estate. It has great red fruits and generous acidity, both of which are given a strong sense of structure by the tannins. At the moment, it is about potential, so wait until 2017. Malbec & Malbec Cellars. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $16

89 Château Bertinerie 2012 Réserve (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). From selected parcels

on the Bertinerie vineyard, this is still a young, firmly structured wine. Red berry fruits offer a con-trast to the solid tannins and rich texture. The wood aging still shows, giving a spicy character that will integrate as the wine matures. Drink from 2017. DB Wine Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $30

89 Château de Cruzeau 2012 Pessac-Léognan. From one of the properties owned by André

Lurton in Pessac-Léognan, this is a well-structured, wood-aged wine. Solid tannins and spice accom-pany coffee and bitter chocolate flavors. These are subsiding as the wine matures, leaving black currant fruits and a series of firm tannins that will allow the wine to age. Drink from 2017. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

89 Château Lécuyer 2012 Pomerol. Typical for Pomerol, this is a tiny property of seven

acres. It is situated on the plateau close to Pomerol village center. It presents a bold display of Merlot, full of ripe tannins and jammy red berry fruits. It’s dark, rich and maturing well, and will be ready to drink from 2017. Aquitaine Wine Company. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $58

89 Château Mayne Vieil 2012 Fronsac. Still very young, this is a complex and powerful

wine. Its tannins and firm structure dominate at the moment, muting the juicy fruit that’s underneath. With aging potential, the wine will develop slowly. Drink from 2018. Vinum Wine Importing and Dis-tributing LLC. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $16

88 Château La Pirouette 2011 Médoc. Strong wood aromas and flavors show that this is

a young wine. It has a powerful, smoky structure, with a grainy texture that is still covering the fruit. The potential is there, though, the black currant fruitiness beginning to develop. Give it time and drink from 2017. Val D’Orbieu Americas. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $33

88 Château la Fleur 2012 Montagne-Saint-Émilion. Big, ripe and fruity, this dense and

juicy wine is full of blackberry fruits, with a good tannin and acid balance. A dark structure will al-low the wine to age, so drink from 2016. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $19

88 Château la Tonnelle 2012 Haut-Médoc. A blend dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon

gives a solid, structured and tannic wine. Some wood aging brings out a minty character as well as some toast. The wine is rich and smooth, although with a solid core of tannins. Drink from 2016. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25

88 Château la Valade 2012 Blaye Côtes de Bor-deaux. The wood-aging flavors are strong

although not too dominant. They ride well with the solid fruit tannins, flavorsome blackberry fruits and firm, smoky aftertaste. This balanced wine will need some aging; drink from 2016. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $14

88 Château Lécuyer 2011 Pomerol. A rich, soft and smooth wine that is full of juicy fruits

and a rounded texture. It’s generous and opulent, developing fast with ripe fruitiness and a fresh af-tertaste. Drink from 2016. Aquitaine Wine Com-pany. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

87 Château le Chêne 2012 Haut-Médoc. From Cissac in the north of the Haut-Médoc, this

firm and structured wine has dark berry fruits along with solid tannins and a dry structure. It promises aging as well as the possibility of drinking sooner, so try from 2016. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

87 Château Picoron 2012 Sélection Prestige (Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux). This ripe and

fruity wine has attractive blackberry flavors along with a smoothness that comes from wood aging. The tannins give just the right amount of structure,

balancing this juicy wine. Drink from 2016. Victoire Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

86 Château la Prade 2012 Francs Côtes de Bor-deaux. Smooth and ripe, 90% Merlot and

10% Cabernet Franc, this is a solid, structured wine. Its juicy acidity is full of potential, giving a ripe character with red berry fruits and a tannic structure to balance. The wine’s fruit gives a fresher feel at the end. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

ROSÉS

85 Château Bonnet 2013 Bordeaux Rosé. A fresh and fruity rosé that has 50% Cabernet

Sauvignon and 50% Merlot in the blend. It has a light caramel touch along with raspberry fruitiness and delicate acidity. The 2013 vintage at Château Bonnet saw yields drastically cut because of hail. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $13

84 Château de Sours 2013 Bordeaux Rosé. Fresh and with plenty of crisp raspberry flavors,

this is a bright, light wine. It has just a touch of car-amel along with a really fruity aftertaste. Old Bridge Cellars. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

83 Baron Philippe de Rothschild 2013 Le Rosé de Mouton Cadet (Bordeaux Rosé). With

an attractive pink color and soft acidity, the wine is fruity with red berry flavors and a soft, caramel texture. It’s ready to drink while it is still so fresh. Mouton Cadet USA. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $11

BORDEAUX BLANC

89 Château de Sours 2012 La Source (Bordeaux Blanc). A little wood aging has subdued

the fruitiness of this wine while bringing out a rich character with touches of pineapple and honey as well as crisper lemon flavors. It’s a wine in progress and will be better from 2016. Old Bridge Cellars. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $35

87 Château Magnol 2013 Les Charmes de Magnol (Bordeaux Blanc). Yellow fruits and a light

touch of wood give this wine from the Haut-Médoc estate of Château Magnol richness and a fruity char-acter. A more textured edge brings a crisper note to the party. Drink from 2015. Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $15

86 Barton & Guestier 2013 Passeport Sauvi-gnon Blanc-Sémillon (Bordeaux Blanc). For

full review see page 16. Best Buy. abv: 11.5% Price: $10

WINEMAG.COM | 67

85 Baron Philippe de Rothschild 2012 Mouton Cadet (Bordeaux Blanc). Totally herbaceous,

this fruity wine has grassy aromas and gooseberry flavors. It’s crisp, fresh and ready to drink. Mouton Cadet USA. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $11

85 Château de Sours 2013 La Fleur d’Amélie (Bordeaux Blanc). Citrus and herbaceous-

ness dominate this light and fresh wine. It has crisp lime flavors, yellow fruits and perfumed acidity. Drink now, although it will be better in 2016. Old Bridge Cellars. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

85 Château de Sours 2013 La Source (Bordeaux Blanc). This textured, mineral wine also has

fresh and crisp Sauvignon herbaceous flavors. It is bright and lively, still on the young side and waiting for the Sémillon in the blend to show through. Drink from the end of 2015. Old Bridge Cellars. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $35

84 Avant-Garde 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Bor-deaux Blanc). While the wine is definitely

herbaceous that crispness is softened by the ripe fruits that also give currant fruitiness and an at-tractive aromatic aftertaste. It is ready to drink. Val D’Orbieu Americas. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

84 Baron Philippe de Rothschild 2013 Mouton Cadet (Bordeaux Blanc). Fresh and herba-

ceous, this is a light, attractively fruity wine. It has bright acidity, green fruit and citrus flavors and is totally ready to drink. Mouton Cadet USA. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $11

84 Caves de Rauzan 2013 Augey (Bordeaux Blanc). This is soft, hinting at a sweeter side

with its smooth texture and touch of honey. It’s an attractive wine, ready to drink now. Prestige Wine Group. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $10

OTHER WHITE WINES

88 Château Haut Bertinerie 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). This is a

wood-aged wine, rich and with a mix of toast, spice and citrus flavors. Acidity cuts through the rich-ness, making it full-bodied while fresh. Still young, the wine needs time to integrate the wood with the fruit. Drink from 2016. DB Wine Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $30

85 Château de Crain 2012 Entre-Deux-Mers. Very aromatic, this is a grassy, herbaceous

and crisp wine. It is bright with lemon acidity, a light mineral texture and a lively aftertaste. It’s ready to drink. Val D’Orbieu Americas. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $19

RHÔNECONDRIEU

93 Michel & Stéphane Ogier 2011 La Combe de Malleval (Condrieu). This is a rich, ripe Con-

drieu that manages to avoid seeming excessively weighty or oily. The suggestion of grilled apricot and pineapple slices is balanced by mouthwatering acidity and a slightly peppery, textural grip on the long finish. Drink by 2016. Robert Kacher Selec-tions. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $92

92 Gilles Flacher 2011 Les Rouelles (Condrieu). Surprisingly smoky and toasty upfront, but

balanced by ample apricot fruit and hints of honey, pineapple and citrus zest. Despite its ripe, oaky na-ture, there’s plenty of crisp acidity to provide struc-ture and prolong the finish. Drink now–2016. Good Company Wines. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $60

91 E. Guigal 2011 Condrieu. The region’s most widely available wine remains a solid bench-

mark. Exotic aromas of citrus blossom and tropi-cal fruit make a bold impression, followed up on the palate by ample weight and a touch of oiliness. Drink now–2016. Vintus LLC. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $65

90 Maison Nicolas Perrin 2011 Condrieu. In only a few years, this has become one of the

northern Rhône’s most reliable négociants. This wine features plenty of apricot, honey and melon nuances framed by caramel and cinnamon, with a long, spicy and honeyed finish. Drink now–2016. Vineyard Brands. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $71

88 Delas Frères 2011 La Galopine (Condrieu). This wine displays reticent notes of acacia

blossom and apricot, with bountiful white pepper. It’s medium bodied and a bit viscous in texture, then develops a spicy, mouth-tingling finish. Drink through 2016. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $50

CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE

91 Famille Perrin 2012 Les Sinards (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). For full review see page 8.

abv: 13.5% Price: $38

90 Tardieu-Laurent 2012 Vieilles Vignes (Châ-teauneuf-du-Pape). This honeyed, toasty

Châteauneuf may be too oaky for purists, but it does show ample concentration and length. Hints of marmalade shine through on the palate, ending in a long, smoky finale. Drink now. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $67

88 Clos de L’Oratoire des Papes 2012 Châ-teauneuf-du-Pape. This easy-drinking,

fruit-forward blend of Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Roussanne and Bourboulenc displays ample mel-on and citrus aromas and flavors. A suggestion of wet stone prolongs the finish and adds just enough structure to hold everything else together. Vinum International. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $50

87 André Brunel 2012 Les Cailloux (Châ-teauneuf-du-Pape). At 80% Roussanne and

20% Grenache Blanc, this isn’t a typical assemblage for Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Fermented and aged in concrete, it’s reticent at this stage of its evolution, showing hints of paraffin and honey but remaining largely neutral. Unlike most white Châteauneufs, it would probably benefit from a few years of cellaring. Robert Kacher Selections. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $54

86 M. Chapoutier 2012 La Bernardine (Châ-teauneuf-du-Pape). Offering up hints of

clover blossom and lime, this is an attractive, cit-rusy white for drinking over the next year or two. The palate shows a mild weight—a bit of a rarity when it comes to Châteauneuf-du-Pape blanc—and is very crisp and clean on the finish. Terlato Wines International. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $62

85 Domaine de la Présidente 2012 Grands Clas-siques (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Not the

lushest or most generous white Châteauneuf, this is a rather tart, citrusy and anise-tinged wine. It’s clean and refreshing, with a touch of white pepper on the finish. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $32

OTHER WHITE WINES

90 Domaine de la Mordorée 2013 La Reine des Bois (Lirac). It’s basically one-third each

Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and Viognier, but the Viognier speaks loudest in the finished wine. Apri-cot and peppery-gingery spice notes mark the nose, while the texture is bolstered by Viognier’s phe-nolic content without becoming bitter. Drink now through 2015. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $40

89 Domaine de Gournier 2013 Viognier (Cévennes). This is a fine example of Viog-

nier, exuding varietal characteristics of apricot and spice, plus a thick, viscous texture. It’s a bit oily and finishes with a peppery blast of watercress. Drink up before the end of 2015. Robert Kacher Selec-tions. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $15

89 Mas Carlot 2013 Cuvée Tradition (Costières de Nîmes). This plump-textured blend of

Roussanne, Marsanne and Viognier features aromas and flavors of apricot, melon, mango and ginger.

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Drink it over the next nine months for its appeal-ing, forward fruit nature. Robert Kacher Selections. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

88 Mas Carlot 2013 (Clairette de Bellegarde). This is a plump, generous wine from an al-

most unknown appellation. Melon and pineapple notes are balanced by stony elements and a long, orange blossom finish. Drink now. Robert Kacher Selections. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $20

82 Christian Leperchois 2012 Lunar Apogé (Li-rac). Some attractive citrus elements are

present, but bruised-apple notes suggest a certain level of oxidation, and the flavors fall away quickly on the finish. The Artisan Collection. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $26

TAVEL

91 Domaine de la Mordorée 2013 La Reine Des Bois (Tavel). This is Mordorée’s top cuvée of

Tavel, and it earns that distinction by virtue of its length and stoniness on the finish. There’s a hint of garrigue to the cherry aromas and a plump, complex midpalate as well. Drink it over the next year or two. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $39

90 Domaine de la Mordorée 2013 La Dame Rousse (Tavel). Mordoreé’s 2013 Tavels

are all notable. La Dame Rousse falls in the middle, price- and quality-wise, with bold cherry-berry notes accented by powered cinnamon and a long, mouthwatering finish. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

89 Brotte 2013 Les Églantiers (Tavel). A blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Clairette and 20%

Syrah, this wine represents a relative bargain in the rarified realm of Tavel. Notes of wet stone and cit-rus carry through from start to finish, joined on the midpalate by hints of white chocolate and raspber-ry. It’s a relatively full-bodied rosé that can stand up to grilled meats. Margaux And Associates. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

89 Domaine de la Mordorée 2013 Les Vestides (Tavel). This is a fairly full-bodied, weighty

wine, with slightly confected notes of mixed cher-ries and berries that still manage to finish clean and refreshing. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $26

88 Château de Manissy 2012 Tête de Cuvée (Tavel). Tavel producers like to claim their

wines perform best after a year or two of bottle age, so it’s nice to see a later release once in a while. This is complex, with aromas of moss and wet rock meet-

ing ripe cherries on the palate. Drink by early 2015. MS Walker. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

OTHER ROSÉS

89 Domaine de Gournier 2013 Rosé (Cévennes). This is on the full side for a rosé, yet retains

plenty of mouthwatering appeal. While the aromas aren’t all that expressive, the subtle raspberry and cherry fruit carries an undercurrent of petrichor through the lengthy finish. Robert Kacher Selec-tions. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

87 Château Signac 2013 Cuvée Dona Clara Chus-clan Rosé (Côtes du Rhône Villages). This is

a fruit-driven, medium-bodied rosé of Grenache (60%) and Mourvèdre (40%). While not the most complex rosé, the yellow-fleshed, red-skinned plum flavors are potent, lingering on the mouthwatering finish. Petit Pois Corporation. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

87 E. Guigal 2013 Rosé (Côtes du Rhône). Gui-gal’s latest rosé offers plenty of mouthwater-

ing fruit and intensity. Damp moss and wet stone accent intense watermelon aromas and flavors, which verge on being candied in nature. The com-bination of ripe fruit and crisp acids gives a sweet-tart edge to the finish. Vintus LLC. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $19

87 Ogier 2013 Rosé (Côtes du Rhône). This rosé is slightly confected on the nose, but boasts

ample weight and richness on the palate, along with appealing notes of raspberry, white chocolate and citrus. Vinum International. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $16

86 Domaine Lamargue 2013 Les Grandes Ca-banes Rosé (Costières de Nîmes). This pale

rosé is a 50-50 blend of Syrah and Grenache, fairly typical for the region. The modest peach and berry notes aren’t all that generous on the palate, but most will appreciate its austerity and clean, crisp finish. Esprit du Vin. Best Buy. —J.C. abv: 12.5% Price: $11

CÔTE RÔTIE

93 Domaine Jamet 2009 Côte Rôtie. Textbook Jamet, with flamboyant swirls of cracked

pepper, grilled meat, plum, berry, black olive and espresso finishing long and silky. It’s not the biggest or baddest Côte Rôtie, but it remains a benchmark for elegance and balance. Drink now–2027. Robert Kacher Selections. Cellar Selection. —J.C. abv: 12.5% Price: $145

91 E. Guigal 2010 Brune et Blonde (Côte Rôtie). The appellation’s largest bottling by far, Gui-

gal’s Brune et Blonde continues to represent the re-

gion well. It’s rich and textured on the palate, with aromas and flavors of espresso and plum that marry together into a seamless savory-fruity mélange and finish long. Drink now–2025. Vintus LLC. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $80

91 Vidal-Fleury 2010 Brune et Blonde de Vidal-Fleury (Côte Rôtie). An elegant rendering of

the appellation, this is only medium bodied, yet packs in plenty of complex flavors. Cracked pepper, cured meat, blueberry and plum notes finish with a soft dusting of silky tannins. Drink now–2020. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $80

90 E. Guigal 2009 Brune et Blonde (Côte Rôtie). Guigal’s 2009 entry-level Côte Rôtie comes

across as a bit austere. Cool scents of crushed stone and black olive mark the nose, while the palate is firm and tight, only slowly giving up hints of espres-so. Drink 2018–2024. Vintus LLC. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $75

90 Vidal-Fleury 2010 La Chatillonne Côte Blonde (Côte Rôtie). Baking spice and a hint

of black pepper frame plummy fruit aromas, while touches of leather and coffee sneak in on the palate. It’s a medium-bodied red that incorporates a high proportion of Viognier into the blend (15%). The finishes brings hints of brown sugar and powdered cinnamon. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $109

HERMITAGE

91 M. Chapoutier 2009 Monier de la Sizeranne (Hermitage). Chapoutier’s 2009 Hermitage

is a sturdy rendering of the appellation, with chewy tannins framing dark, savory fruit. Hints of charcoal and black olive mark the nose, while the finish lin-gers astringently. Drink 2018–2025. Terlato Wines International. Cellar Selection. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $125

90 E. Guigal 2009 Hermitage. This chewy, as-tringent wine displays cedar, toast and va-

nilla notes that threaten to dominate the dark fruit. It’s full bodied and richly textured on the palate, but ends on drying, dusty notes of baking spices. Drink 2018–2025. Vintus LLC. Cellar Selection. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $90

89 Louis Bernard 2010 Hermitage. This reason-ably priced Hermitage shows the appella-

tion’s hallmark gamy notes. It’s a sturdy, moderately full-bodied wine with a richly textured finish. Drink now–2025. Boisset Family Estates. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $50

88 Cave de Tain 2010 Hermitage. The local co-op’s basic Hermitage is a medium- to full-

bodied red with slightly drying, ashy tannins and ample espresso and black olive flavors. Cranberry

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and cracked pepper notes also find their way into the mix. Drink 2017–2023. Perfecta Wine Co. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $60

CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE

96 Famille Perrin 2010 Château de Beaucastel (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). The 2010 Beau-

castel is a tour de force, brilliantly combining espresso and black olive notes with bright raspberry fruit, while dark earthy notes provide a solid base. The feel on the palate is ample, with tannins that are a bit dusty but not tough or chewy. The long, mouthwatering finish bodes well for the future. Drink now–2030. Vineyard Brands. Cellar Selec-tion. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $120

94 Famille Perrin 2011 Château de Beaucastel (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). For full review see


94 Pierre Henri Morel 2010 Lieu-Dit Pignan (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Full bodied and

plushly textured, this is an opulent wine that’s ap-proachable now, but should last through 2025. It’s tight and reticent when poured, then opens in the glass to reveal raspberry fruit, with subtle bak-ing spice and cacao. Massanois Imports. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $75

93 Alain Jaume et Fils 2011 Domaine Grand Ve-neur Les Origines (Châteauneuf-du-Pape).

Velvety in texture, this is a concentrated yet finely wrought expression of modern-style Châteauneuf-du-Pape, matured in oak. Cherry and leather notes slide toward chocolate and espresso on the long, richly textured finish. Drink now–2025. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C. abv: 15% Price: $70

93 Domaine du Pegau 2010 Cuvée da Capo (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). This is a full-bod-

ied, amply tannic red with an incredibly long, silky finish. It’s also rather animale in style, boasting in-tense leather and beef jerky aromas and flavors that are smoky and meaty, while hints of liniment and horse tack grow stronger toward the finish. One to try—if possible—before committing to a purchase. Hand Picked Selections. —J.C. abv: 15.5% Price: $500

93 Domaine Santa Duc 2010 Habemus Papam (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Santa Duc’s small

parcel of Châteauneuf-du-Pape is planted to a mix of 95% Grenache and 5% Mourvèdre. It’s a peppery, briary wine that’s savory and spicy, with blackberry fruit providing support rather than leading. The tannins are soft, but still provide ample structure for aging through 2020. Robert Kacher Selections. —J.C. abv: 15.5% Price: $106

92 André Brunel 2011 Les Cailloux (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Les Cailloux is a traditional-style

Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with only the small Syrah component being aged in barrel. The 80% Grenache speaks the loudest, bursting with cherry fruit, dried spice and crushed stone notes that come to a re-fined, silky finish. Drink now–2025. Robert Kacher Selections. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $49

92 Château Maucoil 2010 L’Esprit de Maucoil (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Superripe and

lavishly oaked, the 2010 L’Esprit is loaded with jammy cherry fruit topped with vanilla cream. It’s full bodied, plushly textured and slightly warming, with some chewy wood tannins on the finish. Drink 2018–2025. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —J.C. abv: 15% Price: $116

91 Delas Frères 2011 Haute Pierre (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). If it’s possible for a Châteauneuf-

du-Pape to have Burgundian style, this would be a candidate. The cherries are delicate and herbal, with crisp acids and silky tannins that provide a wiry, peppery framework for the elegant fruit. Drink now–2020. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 15% Price: $44

90 Alain Jaume et Fils 2011 Domaine Grand Veneur (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). The Jau-

me family’s regular bottling of 2011 Châteauneuf is a firm, sturdy effort. Dusty tannins frame notes of cherry, ash and espresso and come to a slightly chewy finish. Give it another year or two and then drink it up by 2020. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C. abv: 15% Price: $53

COSTIÈRES DE NÎMES

90 Château d’Or et de Gueules 2011 Trassegum (Costières de Nîmes). This is a full-bodied,

creamy-textured, superripe wine that should be consumed over the next few years for its opulent dark fruit. It calls to mind black-cherry compote swirled with dark chocolate. There’s even a hint of mint to garnish. The composition is 50% Syrah, 25% Carignan and 25% Mourvèdre, with the Cari-gnan and Mourvèdre coming off 80-year-old vines. Robert Kacher Selections. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

90 Mas Carlot 2013 Cuvée Tradition (Costières de Nîmes). This blend of 55% Grenache,

40% Syrah and 5% Mourvèdre shows consider-able weight and richness for the price. Subtle gar-rigue shadings lead into dark flavors of black cherry, blackberry, cola and licorice, ending with hints of mocha and espresso. Drink it now–2017. Robert Kacher Selections. Best Buy. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $15

90 Mas des Bressades 2012 Cuvée Tradition Syrah-Grenache (Costières de Nîmes). This

50-50 blend of Syrah and Grenache shows just how good entry-level wines from Costières de Nîmes can be. It’s blueberry fruit easily carries complex notes of roasted meat, espresso and black olive while glid-ing to a silky-textured finish. Drink now–2016. Rob-ert Kacher Selections. Best Buy. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

89 Château d’Or et de Gueules 2011 Les Cimels (Costières de Nîmes). Full-bodied and

chewy, this blend of 60% Syrah, 30% Carignan and 10% Grenache is a spicy, garrigue-laden wine. Notes of cinnamon and cracked pepper accent black cherry fruit, turning to licorice on the dusty finish. Drink now–2018. Robert Kacher Selections. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

89 Château Grande Cassagne 2012 Grenache-Syrah (Costières de Nîmes). The blend is

60% Grenache, 40% Syrah. The result is a full-bodied, supple wine dominated by dark fruit. Notes of road tar, black olive and chocolate linger on the finish and would pair best with hearty winter dishes or simple grilled lamb. Robert Kacher Selections. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

88 Domaine Lamargue 2011 Les Grandes Ca-banes (Costières de Nîmes). This Syrah isn’t

particularly aromatic, but it does offer nicely bal-anced flavors of dried cherries, baking spices and dusty earth. It’s slightly rustic and leathery, but that’s part of its charm. Drink up. Esprit du Vin. Best Buy. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $11

85 Tortoise Creek 2012 Le Charmel Syrah- Grenache (Costières de Nîmes). This medi-

um-bodied wine is a blend of 70% Syrah and 30% Grenache. It’s taut and dry, with bright red fruit notes of raspberry and cherry, dressed up by a few herbal flourishes. Drink by the end of 2015. Wine-sellers Ltd. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $12

CÔTES DU RHÔNE

91 Tardieu-Laurent 2011 Guy Louis (Côtes du Rhône). This is strongly marked by toasty,

cedary oak, but enough fruit comes through on the midpalate and finish to suggest this is more than just another oaky red. It’s rich and creamy through the midpalate, then finishes long, with mixed berry notes emerging at the end. Wilson Daniels Ltd. Edi-tors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $26

90 E. Guigal 2011 Côtes du Rhône. A perennial favorite, it’s reassuring to see that the qual-

ity continues to remain high even from Guigal’s least expensive cuvée. Red fruits—cherries and raspber-ries—marry easily with hints of clove, cracked pep-per, black olive and espresso. It’s round on the mid-

BUYINGGUIDE


palate, showing more focus and ample length on the finish. Vintus LLC. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $19

89 La Bouvaude 2011 Elégance (Côtes du Rhône). Plush and creamy in texture,

loaded up with toasted coconut and vanilla, this is a tasty, well crafted oaky red. Hints of berries add depth to the vanilla-laden palate, then linger on the supple finish. Drink now. DB Wine Selection. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

88 Alain Jaume et Fils 2012 Grand Veneur Réserve (Côtes du Rhône). The Jaume fam-

ily continues to turn out reliable, well priced wines from the Southern Rhône. This is filled with effu-sive cherry fruit and marries that to a soft, plush texture. It’s a simple, yet highly satisfying glass of red wine to drink over the next few years. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $17

87 Domaine de Magalanne 2013 Côtes du Rhône. Comprised of equal parts Grenache, Syrah,

Carignan and Cinsault, this is a medium-bodied, supple wine destined for early drinking. Hints of thyme and bay leaf add nuance to the cherry fruit, which ends on some darker notes of asphalt and chocolate. Classic Wine Imports, Inc. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $14

87 M. Chapoutier 2012 Belleruche (Côtes du Rhône). This fruit-forward offering is 70%

Grenache and 30% Syrah. Dark cherry notes are framed by just enough tannin to contrast the ripe fruit, while a hint of dark chocolate sneaks in on the mouthwatering finish. Drink it over the next couple of years. Terlato Wines International. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $14

86 Château de Manissy 2013 Côtes du Rhône. Located in Tavel, Manissy is an organic pro-

ducer whose red Côtes du Rhône is a blend of 60% Grenache, 25% Carignan and 15% Counoise. Whiffs of thyme and bay leaf accent slightly confected cherry fruit in this reasonably crisp, easy-to-drink wine. There’s not much tannin, so you might even try it slightly chilled. MS Walker. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

85 La Bouvaude 2012 Fruiandise (Côtes du Rhône). Hints of thyme and bay leaf accent

taut cherry flavors in this 80-20 blend of Grenache and Syrah. On the palate, the wine starts off a bit burly, but seems to lose intensity the longer it sits in the glass. Drink now. DB Wine Selection. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

84 Le Prince 2012 Vieilles Vignes (Côtes du Rhône). This blend of 54% Grenache, 34%

Syrah, 9% Mourvèdre and 3% Cinsault boasts some brambly fruit, but that’s dominated by notes of leather and clove. It shows decent weight and

concentration on the palate, but just a bit rustic overall. Ingenium Wines. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $19

81 Château Saint Nabor 2012 Côtes du Rhône. This wine lacks fruit, instead offering leath-

ery flavors and a slightly hollow midpalate. Finishes short. Marquee Selections. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGES

88 Château Signac 2012 Cuvée Tradition Chus-clan (Côtes du Rhône Villages). Chusclan is

a warm locale, but this concrete-aged blend of 45% Grenache, 35% Syrah and 20% Carignan displays ample freshness. Notes of cherries, citrus and spice finish tart and refreshing, with just a hint of dark mocha. Drink now–2018. Petit Pois Corporation. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $16

88 Domaine de Magalanne 2011 Lou Biou Sig-nargues (Côtes du Rhône Villages). Ma-

galanne’s top wine is a wood-matured blend of 40% Syrah, 30% Mourvèdre and 30% Carignan. It’s nicely balanced and spry on the palate, easily moving from raspberry, cherry and citrus to leather, spice and herb before ending on some stony, dusty notes. Drink it over the next year or two. Classic Wines. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $22

86 Duvernay 2011 Cairanne (Côtes du Rhône Vil-lages). Shows undeniable complexity in its

scents of green bean, ash and bruised apple, as well as flavors of green coffee beans, scorched plum and dark chocolate. It’s going everywhere, which makes it a bit awkward but interesting at the same time. The plush texture and soft tannins make it drink-able now. Banks Channel. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $16

85 Brotte 2012 Chateau de Bord La Croix de Fré-gère Laudun (Côtes du Rhône Villages). A

blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah from vine-yards near Laudun, this is a typical blend that isn’t typical in flavor. Crisp, dusty notes of cinnamon, red peppercorn and pomegranate predominate, making this medium-bodied wine interesting, if not incred-ibly hedonistic. Margaux And Associates. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $14

85 Domaine de Magalanne 2012 Terre de Galets Signargues (Côtes du Rhône Villages). This

is a crisp, firmly structured blend of 60% Syrah, 30% Mourvèdre and 10% Grenache (within the Rhône, Signargues is best known for its Syrah). The asphalt, black olive and black cherry notes are all positive, but the structure dominates, making the wine seem a bit tough and ungenerous. Perhaps an-other year or two of aging will help? Classic Wines. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $18

OTHER RED WINES

91 Christian Leperchois 2011 Lunar Apogé Made with Organic Grapes (Lirac). This biodynamic

producer has hit in two consecutive vintages. The 2011 is a bit funky at first, so you may want to de-cant it before serving, but once some cabbage-like aromas dissipate, the wine delivers plenty of black-berry fruit, some garrigue notes and a touch of lico-rice. It’s full bodied and creamy in texture, with a long, silky finish. The Artisan Collection. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $20

91 Domaine de la Mordorée 2012 La Dame Rousse (Lirac). Located in Tavel, Domaine de

la Mordorée has been one of the quality leaders in neighboring Lirac. This wine is dark and earthy at first, but opens with airing to reveal bold notes of blueberry, mocha and peppery spice. This 50-50 blend of Grenache and Syrah is full bodied, richly textured and finishes long. Kysela Père et Fils. Edi-tors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $24

84 Domaine de Gournier 2013 Grenache (Cévennes). A bright, bouncy, fresh style of

Grenache, made in an almost Beaujolais style. With its medium body and candied cherry fruit, drink this over the next year or so. Robert Kacher Selec-tions. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $15

GERMANYRIESLING TROCKEN

94 Wittmann 2012 Westhofen Morstein Riesling Trocken GG (Rheinhessen). While the nose

is buoyant, bursting with honey, mango and flow-ers, a polished elegance reverberates throughout this dry, steely Riesling. Rich in body and texture, it’s ripe and peachy, yet balanced with streaks of lime, lemon and mineral. The finish rolls endlessly on the palate. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Edi-tors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $80

93 Dr. Loosen 2012 Erdener Treppchen Alte Reben GG Dry Riesling (Mosel). For full re-

view see page 4. Editors’ Choice. abv: 12.5% Price: $42

93 Dr. Loosen 2012 Wehlener Sonnenuhr GG Dry Riesling (Mosel). Sumptuous aromas of

white peach and pineapple are tinged with rocky mineral tones on this powerful, penetrating dry Riesling. While moderate in alcohol, it’s surpris-ingly ripe in grapefruit and peach flavors, bolstered by a thick, mouthfilling texture. Loosen Bros. USA. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $42

WINEMAG.COM | 7 1

93 Fritz Haag 2013 Brauneberger Riesling Trocken (Mosel). Honeysuckle wafts softly

amidst white peach and lemon aromas on this dry, unctuous wine. Richly textured, it’s almost oily in mouthfeel, but balanced by a streak of high acidity and a steely, mineral tone. Finishes long and lean on a bristling lime-zest note. Loosen Bros. USA. Edi-tors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $35

93 Louis Guntrum 2012 Nierstein Hipping Ries-ling Trocken GG (Rheinhessen). The nose is

all wildflower bouquets and honey on this lavishly ripe, full-bodied Riesling. It’s dry in style, yet buoy-antly fruity, bursting with flavors of honey tan-gerine and quince preserves. Finishes long with a lingering mineral slick. Broadbent Selections, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $58

93 Robert Weil 2013 Kiedrich Gräfenberg Ries-ling Trocken GG (Rheingau). Vivid with acid-

ity yet deep and rich in body, this dry, voluptuous wine brings out the best of a difficult vintage for Germany. It’s fresh on the palate with bright apple and pear flavors, touched with nuances of bramble, spice, pollen and caramel that add complexity to the long finish. Loosen Bros. USA. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $92

92 Fritz Haag 2013 Riesling Trocken (Mosel). Sumptuous notes of sugar cookie and hon-

eydew perfume this lavish, full-bodied bottling. It’s dry on the palate with piercing white-grapefruit acidity, but balanced by a rich, almost creamy, mouthfeel. The finish lingers luxuriously with a murmur of lime-zest astringency. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $22

92 Prinz Salm 2012 Kirchberg Bingen Riesling Trocken GG (Rheinhessen). Freesia and tan-

gerine rind scent this bright, aromatic wine. It’s dry in style, yet luscious and ripe, streaked with tones of honey tangerines and peach. Bristling lime acidity lends cut and vibe to the finish. Valckenberg Inter-national, Inc. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $69

92 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2012 Braune-berger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Trocken GG

(Mosel). Honey tangerine and jasmine notes per-fume this intensely aromatic, complex wine. While dry in style, it’s surprisingly rich and honeyed on the palate. The midpalate tightens with pineapple acidity, followed by a brash mineral finish. Valcken-berg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $65

92 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2012 Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Trocken GG (Mosel).

While sprightly and lean in style, this dry, mineral-tinged Riesling seems to round out on the palate, building in ripe white-peach and grapefruit flavors.

Penetrating lemon-lime acidity wins out on the fin-ish, along with a pleasant bite of citrus zest. Valck-enberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $65

92 Wittmann 2012 Westhofener Riesling Trock-en (Rheinhessen). Tart green melon, lemon

and lime scent this sleek, dry wine. While full bod-ied in style, its rich, mineral palate is steely and honed. Finishes long with a murmur of lime-zest astringency. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $35

91 Johannishof 2012 Johannisberg Hölle Riesling GG (Rheingau). A quiver of silk lends rich-

ness to the palate of this dry, relatively full-bodied Riesling. Stark lime-lemon acidity is tart and brac-ing, but ripe pear and apple notes add flesh and persistence to the finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $69

91 Johannishof 2012 Rüdesheim Berg Rottland Riesling GG (Rheingau). Slicks of honeycomb

and lanolin lend richness to tart white peach and lemon tones in this dry, elegantly structured wine. It’s silky in mouthfeel, but not weighty, streaked with white grapefruit and a firm, mineral finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $69

91 Louis Guntrum 2012 Niersteiner Riesling Trocken (Rheinhessen). Honey and pollen

notes waft from this sharp, intensely structured wine. It’s dry in style yet drenched with ripe peach and tangerine flavors. A swathe of fresh green herbs and cutting, nervous acidity linger long from mid-palate through finish. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $24

91 Maximin Grünhäuser 2013 Herrenberg Alte Re-ben Riesling Trocken (Mosel). Lavender, stone

fruit and sugar cookie notes scent this exuberant, aromatic wine. Dry in style, it’s sprightly and lean with puckering lemon-lime flavors rounded out by a plump, peachy finish. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $42

91 Prinz Salm 2012 Scharlachberg Bingen Ries-ling Trocken GG (Rheinhessen). Smoke tones

blow off revealing layers of tropical fruit encased in wax and lanolin on this bold, nuanced wine. It’s dry in style with a luscious, creamy texture cut with shards of acid and lime-zest astringency. Finishes long and lean. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $69

91 Schloss Johannisberger 2013 Silberlack Ries-ling Trocken GG (Rheingau). A wisp of smoke

lends a sultry tone to fresh pear in this dry, supple wine. It’s ripe and rich on the palate, but maintains the lean, steely acidity ubiquitous to this vintage.

Finishes long with rolling mineral notes. Mionetto USA. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $75

91 Schloss Johannisberger 2012 Silberlack Ries-ling Trocken GG (Rheingau). Fresh apple and

white floral aromas are dusted with caramelized sugar and smoke on this dry, mineral-tinged wine. Edgy and lean on the palate but supple in grapefruit flavor, it’s a honed, steely white with polish and el-egance. Mionetto USA. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $75

90 Brüder Dr. Becker 2012 Riesling Trocken (Rheinhessen). Hints of forest and pine

needle lend an alpine touch to ripe honey and tan-gerine flavors in this dry, medium-bodied wine. It’s brisk and breezy on the palate, yet nuanced with touches of spice, earth and mineral. Finishes long and steely. Savio Soares Selections. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

90 Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Müller-Burggraef) 2013 Bernkastel Riesling Spätlese Trocken

(Mosel). Zesty orange peel awakens the senses on this bracing, minerally Riesling. The palate is lean and steely, cut by a streak of lemon-lime acidity, but it finishes long with a lavish mineral-oil slick. Wi-nesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 11% Price: $30

90 Louis Guntrum 2012 Louis Dry Riesling (Rhe-inhessen). Ripe, rich flavors of yellow peach

and pear cling lusciously on the palate of this dry, full-bodied wine. It’s satisfying in its heft while sprightly in acidity, finishing on a taut, mineral tone. Broadbent Selections, Inc. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 12.7% Price: $14

90 Maximin Grünhäuser 2013 Abtsberg Alte Reben Riesling Trocken (Mosel). Whiffs of

pollen and dusty minerals lend complexity to fresh white-flower and grapefruit tones on this dry, re-freshing wine. It’s cutting and lean, but juicy cit-rus flavors are invigorating and satisfying. Finishes moderately long with a lingering crush of minerals. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 11% Price: $48

90 Maximin Grünhäuser 2013 Riesling Trocken (Mosel). Bramble and smoke lend a savory

rusticity to white peach and lemon tones in this lean, yet deeply penetrating wine. It’s dry in style and searing with lemon-lime acidity, but feels ripe and lush, with peach and grapefruit flavors. Finish-es moderately long. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 11% Price: $22

90 Wittmann 2012 Riesling Trocken (Rheinhes-sen). Initial notes of smoke and earth settle

into lavish blossom and lemon aromas on this dry, reverberating Riesling. It’s delicate in body, yet pen-etrating with lemon-lime acidity and a lingering

BUYINGGUIDE


mineral richness on the finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $22

89 Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier 2013 Dom Ries-ling Trocken (Mosel). Wisps of smoke per-

sist from nose to finish, accenting flavors of fresh, tart apples, grapefruit and peach in this crisp, re-verberating wine. It’s dry and refreshing in style, finishing long with zesty lime astringency. Schmitt-Söhne USA. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $17

89 Dr. Heyden 2013 Oppenheimer Riesling Spät-lese Trocken (Rheinhessen). Crisp white

peach and apricot notes brighten this stark, steely dry wine. While lithe and lean on the palate, it fin-ishes long with a lingering slate minerality. Wine-sellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

89 Louis Guntrum 2012 Oppenheim Sackträger Riesling Spätlese Trocken (Rheinhessen).

Hints of cookie crumbs lend warmth to fresh apple and pear notes in this mineral-intense, dry Riesling. It’s round and rich on the palate, but punctuated by tart, steely tones of acid and stone before finishing moderately long. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $30

89 Wittmann 2012 100 Hills Dry Riesling (Rhe-inhessen). Fresh floral tones persist from

nose to finish on this sharp, spry wine that’s re-freshing, with a delicate, dancing mouthfeel. It fin-ishes briskly on a cutting lemon-lime edge. Freder-ick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $15

88 Weingut Georg Albrecht Schneider 2012 Nei-rsteiner Paterberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken

von Kalk (Rheinhessen). A whisper of ripe tanger-ine skin brightens this dry, intensely mineral wine. Sourced from grapes grown on a chalky site, it’s lean and steely in profile, but gains lushness in the midpalate, blossoming in peach and honey flavors. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $15

87 Weingut Georg Albrecht Schneider 2013 Vom Kalk Limestone Riesling Trocken (Rheinhes-

sen). Whiffs of chalk and stone lend an earthy, min-eral tone to this dry, invigorating wine. The acidity is enamel stripping, but it’s a brisk, cutting wine ideal as a palate refresher or apéritif. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $15

87 Weingut Liebfrauenstift 2012 Wormser Lieb-frauenstift-Kirchenstück Dry Riesling (Rhein-

hessen). Intense mineral tones dominate this dry, sprightly wine. It’s delicate and dainty on the pal-ate, but concentrated with tart orange and citrus rind flavors. Finishes brisk and bright. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $34

86 Binz 2013 Nackenheimer Riesling Kabinett Trocken (Rheinhessen). Ripe honeydew

and peach notes lend a welcome touch of richness to this dry, slightly stark Riesling. The midpalate bristles with acidity, finishing tart and citrusy. Wi-nesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $14

86 P.J. Valckenberg 2013 Undone Dry Riesling (Rheinhessen). Zesty lemon and lime aro-

mas mingle with tart white peach and apple on this dry, medium-bodied wine. It’s stark and mineral on the palate, with nervous acidity that reverberates through the finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $11

86 Weingut Georg Albrecht Schneider 2013 Vom Rotliegenden Red Soil Riesling Trocken

(Rheinhessen). Spine-tingling lime and lemon notes dominate this light-footed dry Riesling. Re-freshingly mineral on the palate, it finishes brisk and clean. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $18

RIESLING KABINETT

91 Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Thanisch) 2013 Ber-ncasteler Doctor Riesling Kabinett Gold Cap

(Mosel). Ripe, rich yellow-cherry and peach tones are surprisingly plump on this dancing, delicate wine. A strike of razor-edged acidity on the mid-palate cuts through all the luscious fruit, leading a steely, mineral finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $53

90 Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Müller-Burggraef) 2013 Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Kabinett

Gold Cap (Mosel). A touch of caramelized sugar adds richness to sweet pineapple and mango notes on this deftly extracted kabinett. The palate dazzles with acidity, but it’s balanced in sweetness and a murmur of lime-zest astringency on the finish. Wi-nesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $42

89 Louis Guntrum 2012 Nierstein Bergkirche Riesling Kabinett (Rheinhessen). Juicy

white grapefruit and lime flavors penetrate through-out this juicy, off-dry Riesling. It’s refreshing and quaffable yet elegantly structured, finishing moder-ately long on a lingering lime-pith note. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $20

88 Dr. Loosen 2013 Bernkasteler Lay Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). A touch of caramel adds

ripeness to sweet honeydew and tangerine flavors in this taut, tight wine. Off dry in style, yet searing with high-octane acidity, it bestows a kiss of sweet stone-fruit to brighten the moderately long finish. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $28

88 Weingut Georg Albrecht Schneider 2013 Niersteiner Paterberg Riesling Kabinett

(Rheinhessen). Underripe honeydew and crisp peach flavors lend a tart-sweet twist to this brisk off-dry Riesling. It’s an elegant wine shaded with touches of mineral and herb that linger long on the finish. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $15

87 Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Müller-Burggraef) 2013 Bernkastel Riesling Kabinett (Mosel).

Spicy and aromatic, this saffron-tinged wine bal-ances intense acidity with welcome touches of sweet white peach and honey. It’s crisp and nervy on the palate, but lingers moderately long on a dusty mineral finish. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 8.3% Price: $20

87 Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Müller-Burggraef) 2013 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabi-

nett (Mosel). A touch of pollen adds earthy funk to pristine white blossom and pear notes on this brisk, invigorating wine. Searing acid swipes through the midpalate, but the delicate hints of sweet yellow-cherry persist through the finish. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $22

87 Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Thanisch) 2013 Ber-nkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett (Mo-

sel). Wisps of smoke and crushed stones lend complexity to fresh apple and pear notes on this delicate, lace-textured wine. Electric lemon-line acid strikes a mean chord on the palate, but hints of sweet peach and apricot even out the finish. Valck-enberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 9% Price: $34

86 Dr. Heyden 2012 Oppenheimer Riesling Kabi-nett (Rheinhessen). There’s still a touch of

spritz on this racy off-dry Riesling, adding fresh-ness and vibe to savory apple and lemon flavors. It’s bracingly acidic on the palate, yet refreshingly quaf-fable. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $13

86 Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2013 Bernkasteler Bad-stube Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Smoke and

earth tones add funk to the nose of this delicate off-dry wine. The palate is pristine with crisp white peach and apricot flavors, but biting acidity and a bitter lemon-pith note leave the finish taut. Wine-sellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $22

86 Schäfer 2013 Mettenheimer Schlossberg Riesling Kabinett (Rheinhessen). Glimpses

of lemon and tangerine brighten dusty mineral and bramble tones in this slightly savory off-dry Ries-ling. The palate boasts apple and pear flavors that finish crisply on a zesty lime-pith note. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 10% Price: $14

WINEMAG.COM | 73

RIESLING SPÄTLESE

93 Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Thanisch) 2013 Ber-ncasteler Doctor Riesling Spätlese Gold Cap

(Mosel). Intensely concentrated flavors of sweet cantaloupe, tangerine and peach belie the difficul-ties inherent to Mosel’s 2013 vintage. This spätlese is unusually rich and silken on the palate, yet main-tains a thrilling high-acid profile. Finishes long with lingering notes of honeysuckle and saffron. Valcken-berg International, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $78

92 Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Müller-Burggraef) 2013 Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Spätlese

Gold Cap (Mosel). Whiffs of orange spice, tangerine and honey entice on this intensely aromatic wine. While nervous and spry on the palate, it’s streaked with rich orange and pineapple flavors. A touch of caramelized sugar lends warmth to the lingering finish. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 7.7% Price: $58

92 Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2013 Bernkastel-er Badstube Riesling Spätlese (Mosel).

While lithe and delicate in mouthfeel, this dazzling wine packs a punch with sun-kissed peach and apricot flavors. High-toned lime notes cut through the palate like a razor, leading a long, honey-kissed finish. Impeccably balanced, it’s full of vibe and re-freshment. Vinum Cos. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $28

91 Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2013 Bernkasteler alte Badstube am Doctorberg Riesling Spät-

lese (Mosel). Mineral notes on the nose build in in-tensity throughout this brisk, invigorating semidry Riesling. Spine-tingling lemon-lime acidity offsets a palate full of luscious yellow peach and honey fla-vors. Finishes long with a spray of lavender. Vinum Cos. —A.I. abv: 9.5% Price: $33

90 Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Thanisch) 2013 Ber-nkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese (Mo-

sel). Touches of pine forest, saffron, wax and or-ange peel persist throughout this zesty, invigorating wine. Sunny melon and tangerine flavors are brisk and bright, extended through the finish on a streak of lemon-lime acidity. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $38

89 Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2013 Bernkasteler alte Badstube am Doctorberg Riesling Spätlese

(Mosel). Dusty mineral notes persist on this el-egant, invigorating semidry Riesling. It’s intensely tart with acidity, but sunny rays of yellow peach and tangerine build towards the midpalate. The finish is kissed with honey and lemon tea. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 9.5% Price: $34

87 Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2013 Bernkasteler Bads-tube Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Earthy notes

of saffron and crushed stone accent sweet orange and honey in this zesty, gossamer-textured wine. It’s cutting and spry with acidity, finishing with an aromatic spray of honeysuckle and tangerine. Wine-sellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $30

87 Schloss Saarstein 2013 Serrig Schloss Saa-rsteiner Riesling Spätlese Erste Lage (Mosel).

Pristine white peach mingles with saffron, candle wax and dusty minerals in this enticingly spry wine, but the shriekingly high acidity cuts the palate with a razor’s edge. Welcome touches of honey add some balance towards the finish. Valckenberg Interna-tional, Inc. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $42

RIESLING AUSLESE

93 Fritz Haag 2013 Brauneberger Juffer Son-nenuhr Riesling Auslese (Mosel). While the

nose is subdued, lush honeydew and white peach flavors shine brilliantly on the palate of this taut, nervous wine. Streaks of steely mineral lend a pol-ished feel that lingers on the finish. It’s strikingly acidic still, but should meld together beautifully with some cellaring, ideally from 2019 on. Loosen Bros. USA. Cellar Selection. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $56/375 ml

92 Fritz Haag 2013 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel (Mosel). Gorgeously aro-

matic, this racy, light-footed wine wafts of laven-der, peach and honeycomb. The palate is juicy with sweet, ripe grapefruit and apricot, yet zesty with acidity and minerality. Enamel-stripping acidity feels jagged on the finish now, but should meld out beautifully from 2019 on. Loosen Bros. USA. Cellar Selection. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $42/375 ml

92 Fritz Haag 2013 Brauneberger Juffer Son-nenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel (Mosel).

Dusty, smoky earth tones fade to reveal a rich, fruity palate of sweet white peaches and tangerine. De-spite its light-footed nature, there’s a lusciousness in mouthfeel, cut with spine-tingling acidity on the midpalate. Enjoy from 2018 to allow its honeyed mineral notes to develop. Loosen Bros. USA. Cellar Selection. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $52/375 ml

92 Maximin Grünhäuser 2013 Abtsberg Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Hints of green herb accent

fresh, crisp pear and apple flavors in this delicate, dancing wine. Semisweet in style, it deftly balances bracing, acidity with long, lingering swathes of hon-ey and stone fruit. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 7% Price: $46

EISWEIN

94 Castell 2012 Casteller Schlossberg Riesling Eiswein (Franken). Intense aromas of dried

orange peel, tangerine and spice entice from this silky-smooth wine. It’s deeply mineral, yet luscious-ly fruity, loaded with ripe, sweet yellow-cherry and berry flavors. Finishes with a honeyed cling. Valck-enberg International, Inc. Cellar Selection. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $350/500 ml

94 Dr. Hermann 2012 Goldkap Riesling Eiswein (Mosel). This delivers a spectacular explo-

sion of fruity, floral flavors. Notes of apricot pre-serve and honeysuckle are exuberantly aromatic, balanced with a delicate palate of sweet, sugared peach and tangerine. It’s sprightly and lean, yet ele-gantly lingering on the finish. Broadbent Selections, Inc. Cellar Selection. —A.I. abv: 6% Price: $115/375 ml

93 Maximin Grünhäuser 2012 Herrenberg Ries-ling Eiswein (Mosel). Delicate dustings of

saffron and spice lend complexity to unctuous hon-ey and tangerine on this luscious, concentrated eis-wein. While light as a feather, its intensity and pow-er are jaw dropping. A streak of high-toned acidity draws out a long, mineral finish. Loosen Bros. USA. Cellar Selection. —A.I. abv: 6.5% Price: $314

92 Robert Weil 2012 Kiedrich Gräfenberg Ries-ling Eiswein (Rheingau). Pollen and dust

notes lend an earthy, mineral tone to ripe tangerine and peach flavors in this bristling, bright eiswein. It’s strikingly acidic, but broad swathes of honey and nectar balance things out elegantly. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $365/375 ml

RIESLING FEINHERB

92 St. Urbans-Hof 2012 Nik Weis Leiwener Lau-rentiuslay Riesling Feinherb Grosse Lage

(Mosel). Intense note of caramel and smoke add complexity to fresh apple and tangerine flavors in this dry, mineral-rich wine. It’s delicate in alcohol, yet remarkably round and clingy on the palate, cut by a stream of high-toned acidity on the finish. HB Wine Merchants. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 11% Price: $55

90 Maximin Grünhäuser 2013 Riesling Feinherb (Mosel). Savory earth tones mingle with

honey-glazed apple and pear on this sprightly, vi-vacious wine. Off dry in style, it’s penetrating with sweet citrus flavor and a zesty crushed mineral fin-ish. Light on its feet, it’s also satisfying and juicy. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 10.5% Price: $22

89 Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier 2013 Riesling Feinherb (Mosel). Hints of bramble and

BUYINGGUIDE


smoke add savoriness to fresh apple and pear flavors in this almost-dry Riesling. The palate is piercingly high in acidity, but zesty lemon and lime flavors are bright and invigorating. Schmitt-Söhne USA. —A.I. abv: 11% Price: $17

89 Peter Nicolay 2013 Wehlener Klosterberg Off-Dry Riesling (Mosel). Brighter and sun-

nier than many of its peers from this cool, difficult vintage, this off-dry Riesling boasts an easy tanger-ine acidity. The palate is still zesty and spry, while saffron-scented apples and pears linger on the fin-ish. Vinum Cos. —A.I. abv: 10.5% Price: $20

88 Peter Nicolay 2013 Erdener Treppchen Off-Dry Riesling (Mosel). Smoke and caramel

add breadth to crisp, lean apple and pear flavors in this bristling off-dry Riesling. It’s zesty and refresh-ing from start to finish, ending on a taut, bitter lime note. Vinum Cos. —A.I. abv: 10.5% Price: $20

86 Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Müller-Burggraef) 2013 Bernkastel Feinherb Riesling (Mosel).

Honeysuckle perfume shines light on this lean, strikingly brisk wine. Almost dry in style, it’s tart and tight, yet refreshingly quaffable through the fin-ish. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 10.5% Price: $20

OTHER RIESLING

89 Bollig-Lehnert 2013 Flagfish Riesling (Mo-sel). Delicate and racy, yet intensely pen-

etrating with peach and lemon flavors, this off-dry Riesling achieves satisfying balance. The palate is smooth and finishes long on a sultry smoke tone. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 9% Price: $16

89 Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2013 Noble House Ries-ling (Mosel). While the nose on this off-dry

Riesling is lean and mineral, the palate is lusciously ripe, brimming with peach and mango flavors. A streak of high-pitched acidity shakes up the midpal-ate and lingers through the finish. Winesellers Ltd. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $12

89 Prinz Salm 2013 Two Princes Riesling (Rhe-inhessen). Intense citrus notes perfume

this bright, sunny off-dry Riesling. Yellow peach and pear flavors are rich and ripe on the palate, but balanced by a firm strike of lemon acidity. Finishes moderately long. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 10.5% Price: $17

89 Schäfer 2013 Estate Bottled Riesling (Rhe-inhessen). Dusty aromas of dried, savory

herbs accent tart yellow peach and nectarine flavors in this brisk, delicate wine. Dry in style, it’s elegant on the palate, streaked with touches of honed steel

and minerals. The long finish conveys a murmur of astringency. Winesellers Ltd. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $13

89 Weingut Liebfrauenstift 2013 Riesling (Rhe-inhessen). Pristine white grapefruit and

peach flavors reverberate from nose to finish on this juicy off-dry Riesling. It’s unabashedly fruity yet el-egantly quaffable, marked by tart lime acidity and a lingering suggestion of minerals. Valckenberg Inter-national, Inc. —A.I. abv: 10% Price: $17

88 Blümel 2013 Liebenberg Riesling (Rheinhes-sen). Hints of sun-dried hay and herbs lend

a savory, earthy vibe to this dry, full-bodied wine. It’s lavishly mineral on the palate, streaked with wet stone and steel, and concludes with zesty kick of lime-pith astringency. Snarky & Spirited LLC. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $21

88 Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2013 Riesling (Mosel). A hint of green-floral perfume

wafts amidst notes of honey and apple on this off-dry Riesling. Spine-tingling with acidity, it’s bal-anced with sweet yellow peach and cherry flavors. Irresistibly easy drinking, it finishes moderately long. Vinum Cos. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $10

88 Leonard Kreusch 2012 Estate Bottled Ries-ling (Mosel). Smoky mineral tones add

complexity to this pert, off-dry Riesling. White grapefruit and quince flavors are piercingly tart on the palate, highlighted by a stream of high-toned lime acidity on the finish. Leonard Kreusch, Inc. —A.I. abv: 11% Price: $16

88 Loosen Bros. 2013 Dr. L Riesling (Mosel). Savory whiffs of nuts and mineral convey

elegance to ripe white peach and grapefruit aromas on this off-dry Riesling. Easy-drinking in style, it’s pleasantly tart, finishing on a sweet, lingering kiss of honey. Loosen Bros. USA. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $12

88 Nebel 2013 Riesling (Rheinhessen). A spray of floral perfume accents delicate notes of

lemon, lime and dusty mineral on this sprightly off-dry Riesling. Citrus flavors punch through the palate, highlighted by a stream of tongue-tingling acidity. The finish is crisp and cutting. AWDirect. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 10.5% Price: $12

88 Pflüger 2013 Dürkheimer Riesling (Pfalz). Bristling acidity is hard to hide on this

stark, dry-style Riesling. Yet the palate surprises with touches of honey, saffron, peach and pineap-ple that peek through like a warm ray of sunshine. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $25

88 Schmitt Söhne Family Wines 2013 Qualitats-wein Riesling (Rheinhessen). For full review

see page 15. Best Buy. abv: 9.5% Price: $9

88 Schmitt Söhne 2013 Relax Riesling (Mosel). For full review see page 15. Best Buy.

abv: 9% Price: $10

87 Contempo NV Riesling (Rheinhessen). In-tense grapefruit and pineapple aromas

mingle with saffron and spice in this punchy off-dry Riesling. The palate is satisfying and concentrated with juicy citrus flavor, while hints of crushed stone lend elegance to the finish. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 10% Price: $10

87 Gustav Adolph Schmitt 2012 Fisherman Ries-ling (Rheinhessen). Brisk and elegant, this

wine has an alpine feel that accentuates its lean, cutting profile. The palate is a tad austere, highlight-ing minerality and acidity over fruit, but a touch of white grapefruit peeks through nicely on the finish. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 10.5% Price: $11

87 Heinz Eifel 2013 Shine Riesling (Rheinhes-sen). Delicate scents of lemon and lime

touched with bramble and earth waft from this off-dry Riesling. The palate is succulent and juicy with yellow peach and tangerine flavors, but marked by a tough edge of acidity that lingers through the finish. Winesellers Ltd. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 10% Price: $11

87 Landshut 2013 Riesling (Rheinhessen). For full review see page 16. Best Buy.

abv: 9.5% Price: $5

87 P.J. Valckenberg 2012 Riesling (Rheinhes-sen). Stone and steel linger throughout this

biting, citrus-tinged Riesling. Off dry in style, juicy white grapefruit flavor penetrates on the palate, fin-ishing crisp and clean. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 10.5% Price: $14

87 Peter Nicolay 2013 Riesling (Mosel). Crushed stone notes lend a lean, mineral character to

bright apple and lemon on this bright, refreshing wine. It’s off dry in style with pert lemony acidity that lingers on the finish. Vinum Cos. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $16

87 Pflüger 2013 Herrenberg Riesling (Pfalz). Hints of sugar cookie and blossom lend

warmth to the nose of this brisk, steely wine. It’s dry in style and bracingly acidic, but polished with touches of stone and steel that linger on the finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $34

86 Blümel 2013 Michelsberg Riesling (Rhein-hessen). Subtle aromas of lemon, lime and

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crushed stone intensify through the palate of this dry, strikingly acidic Riesling. The mouthfeel is lean and lithe, finishing savory, on a dusty pollen note. Snarky & Spirited LLC. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $21

86 Dr. Fischer 2013 Riesling (Mosel). Brisk and puckery with tart green-apple and lime

notes, this is an invigorating, slightly bracing, off-dry Riesling. Enjoy now for its brash, brisk style. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 10% Price: $15

86 Fitz-Ritter 2013 Dürkheimer Riesling (Pfalz). Minerality is elemental to this taut, smoky

Riesling. Slightly ruddy flavors of apple and peach tend towards the savory, accented by touches of dusty earth and stone. It ends briskly with a cutting lemon edge. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $19

86 Karl Schaefer 2013 Wachenheimer Gerümpel Riesling (Pfalz). Fresh floral notes perfume

this delicate, dainty wine. It’s not densely concen-trated on the palate, but crisp lime acidity makes it quaffable and invigorating. Valckenberg Interna-tional, Inc. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $37

84 C. von Nell-Breuning 2013 Kaseler Riesling (Mosel). Fresh lime juice brightens savory

tones of apple and pear in this brisk off-dry Ries-ling. It’s racy and lithe on the palate, finishing on a puckering sour lemon-candy note. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 9% Price: $17

SILVANER

89 Castell 2012 Casteller Schlossberg Silvaner Trocken GG (Franken). Dusty dried herbs ac-

cent bright notes of tangerine and white flower on this bold yet elegant wine. The palate is rich, round and heavy in feel, but striking lemon-lime acidity and a crush of oyster shells adds balance. Valcken-berg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 14% Price: $76

88 Castell 2012 Casteller Kugelspiel Trocken Silvaner (Franken). Smoky tones of roasted

nuts intensify throughout this rich, full-bodied wine. Dry on the palate, it’s a showcase of mineral-ity brightened by a streak of fresh lime and lemon flavors. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 14% Price: $28

86 Castell 2013 Castell Silvaner Trocken (Fran-ken). Sunny tropical fruit and honey on the

nose contrast with the brisk mineral tones on the palate of this refreshing dry wine. Crisp and quaffa-ble, it’s an elegant introduction to this mysterious, slightly savory grape. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $18

86 Castell 2013 Schloss Silvaner Trocken (Fran-ken). Dried herb notes mingle with tart

pineapple and tangerine flavors in this sprightly, easy-drinking wine. Dry and medium-bodied in style, it’s marked by a touch of seawater minerality on the finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $21

OTHER WHITE WINES

90 Blümel 2013 Kirchberg Weissburgunder (Rheinhessen). Delicate sprays of white

flowers, peach and pineapple entice on this ripe, round Pinot Blanc. It’s pleasantly clingy, yet el-egantly structured, with streaks of minerals and high-toned acidity reverberating on the finish. Snarky & Spirited LLC. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $24

88 Binz 2013 Nackenheimer Pinot Gris Kabinett Trocken (Rheinhessen). Whiffs of caramel-

ized sugar and grilled peaches lend a ripe, fruity tone to this otherwise, brash, lean wine. Refreshing on the palate, it’s zesty and spry, concluding with a steely, mineral tone. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $14

87 P.J. Valckenberg 2013 Pinot Blanc (Rheinhes-sen). White peach and candle wax scent

this elegantly structured wine. Pert lime and lemon tones add zest and vibe to the palate. It finishes moderately long with a touch of caramelized sugar. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $13

86 Blümel 2013 Kirchberg Grauburgunder (Rhe-inhessen). Smoky, brambly notes persist

from nose to finish on this dry, intensely savory Pi-not Gris. Fresh lemon and apple flavors on the pal-ate are concentrated, but finish on a green, vegetal tone. Snarky & Spirited LLC. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $24

SPÄTBURGUNDER

92 Bernhard Huber 2011 Bienenberg Erste Lage R GG Spätburgunder (Baden). The better (by

just a whisker) of Huber’s 2011 Pinot Noirs, the Bi-enenberg is distinctly fragrant of cherry blossoms and rose. Tart red cherry and cranberry flavors are streaked with saltwater and stone, finishing on a lingering mineral tone. It’s bold, yet elegantly struc-tured. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $103

91 Bernhard Huber 2011 Alte Reben Spätbur-gunder (Baden). Delicate notes of bramble

and char accent sultry black-cherry flavor in this bold, elegantly structured wine. Fresh cranberry acidity dazzles the midpalate, leading a long, min-eral-tinged finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $74

91 Bernhard Huber 2011 Schlossberg Erste Lage R GG Spätburgunder (Baden). It’s difficult to

name favorites amidst this vintage of Huber’s Pinot Noirs, but the Schlossberg is distinct for its plump, ripe fruit. The palate penetrates with bright red-cherry flavor, yet maintains composure. A vibrant vein of acidity trails through the finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $117

90 Bernhard Huber 2011 Sommerhalde Erste Lage R GG Spätburgunder (Baden). Hints

of umami richness lend savoriness to primary red-cherry and cranberry flavors on this nuanced wine. Supple like silk yet refreshingly mineral, it finishes crisp and clean with lingering wet-granite notes. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $103

89 Louis Guntrum 2012 Pinot Noir (Rheinhes-sen). Wisps of green herb and grass lend

freshness to bright red-cherry and berry aromas on this full-bodied wine. On the palate, fruit tones are riper and richer, bursting with cassis and dark cherry. It’s elegant yet accessible, with a lingering finish rimmed with soft, feathery tannins. Broad-bent Selections, Inc. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

88 P.J. Valckenberg 2013 Undone Pinot Noir (Rheinhessen). A kiss of violet mingles with

bright red cherry and strawberry aromas on this el-egant yet approachable wine. It’s juicy and concen-trated with sunny red-berry flavor, but fresh and spry with acidity. The moderately long finish holds just a faint spray of tannins. Valckenberg Interna-tional, Inc. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $11

87 Schäfer 2012 Estate Bottled Pinot Noir (Rhe-inhessen). Hints of cedar and toast lend

warmth to crisp red-cherry and plum notes in this big-bodied, yet delicately flavored wine. Bright cranberry acidity lends a fresh feel to the palate. It finishes moderately long with a hint of bitter tan-nin. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

DORNFELDER

86 Schäfer 2013 Mettenheimer Dry Red Estate Bottled Dornfelder (Rheinhessen). Despite

candied blueberry and grape notes on the nose, this is a dry-style Dornfelder. Rich and ruddy on the pal-ate, it finishes a tad warm with a lingering cassis note. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

85 Leonard Kreusch 2010 Sweet Dornfelder (Rheinhessen). Stewed plum and black

cherry flavors are a bit ruddy on this rustic, off-dry Dornfelder. It’s juicy in a straightforward, easy way,

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while a touch of cranberry acidity brightens the fin-ish. Leonard Kreusch, Inc. —A.I. abv: 10.5% Price: $12

85 P.J. Valckenberg 2012 Dornfelder (Rheinhes-sen). Blackberry and blueberry flavors are

ripe on this easy drinking, off-dry wine. It’s juicy and rich, but lifted by a spray of crisp red cherry on the finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 10% Price: $12

83 Schäfer 2012 Sweet Red Estate Bottled Dorn-felder (Rheinhessen). Preserved plum and

cherry notes are tinged with dark chocolate on this ripe, easy drinking off-dry Dornfelder. Despite all the richness, it’s a bit lacking in concentration on the palate. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $14

NORTHEAST ITALYAMARONE DELLA

VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO

93 David Sterza 2010 Amarone della Valpo-licella Classico. Aromas of black currant,

plum cake, vanilla and mocha lead the nose on this structured, full-bodied wine. On the palate, notes of cinnamon, black pepper and nutmeg add depth to the rich blackberry and crushed plum flavors, Despite the hefty structure, it’s also surprisingly el-egant thanks to assertive but polished tannins and just enough fresh acidity. The Italian Wine Trader. —K.O. abv: 16% Price: $43

92 Corteforte 2007 Terre di San Zeno (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Crushed blue

flower, new leather, ripe black fruit and incense aro-mas jump out of the glass. The palate is surprisingly fresh for the vintage, displaying juicy plum, black-berry and cinnamon balanced by firm but smooth tannins. J & J Importers. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $55

92 Corteforte 2006 Vigneti di Osan (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). A layered fra-

grance of blue flower, leather, tobacco, mature black fruit and incense lead the nose on this bold but refined wine. The palate doles out crushed black-berry, graphite and licorice alongside chewy tannins and surprisingly fresh acidity for an eight-year-old wine. J & J Importers. —K.O. abv: 15.5% Price: $70

91 Nicolis 2008 Amarone della Valpolicella Clas-sico. Intense aromas of violet, black plum,

leather with a whiff of baking spices lead the nose on this full-bodied wine. The hearty palate offers mature black cherry, white pepper and clove along-side brooding tannins that need time to open up. Drink 2016–2020. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $60

91 Vigneti Villabella 2005 Amarone della Valpo-licella Classico. Here’s a youthful nine-year-

old that offers intense aromas of crushed blue flow-er, leather, tobacco leaf and baked plum. The savory palate delivers crushed dried black cherry, prune, vanilla and nutmeg framed in velvety tannins. Drink through 2020. Vin Divino. —K.O. abv: 15.5% Price: $60

90 Santa Sofia 2009 Antichello (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). This opens with

classic Amarone aromas that include plum, graph-ite, roasted herb, underbrush and a touch of baking spices. The palate delivers dried plum, blackberry, black pepper and clove alongside brooding tannins. Vinvino Wine. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $68

90 Zymè 2007 Amarone della Valpolicella Clas-sico. This structured seven-year-old dis-

plays aromas of dried sage, fennel, fig and a hint of rubber. The palate is fresher than the nose, offering black plum, fig, white pepper and anisette balanced by big but polished tannins. Enjoy through 2019. Banville Wine Merchants. —K.O. abv: 15.5% Price: $150

90 Zymè 2003 La Mattonara Riserva (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Blueberry, plum

cake, mocha, vanilla and sweet pipe tobacco aromas jump from the glass of this mature, structured wine. On the palate, notes of cinnamon and anisette back up primary flavors of dried black cherry and black-berry. Thanks to its smooth tannins, this would be nice to sip after dinner in front of the fire. Banville Wine Merchants. —K.O. abv: 16% Price: $350

89 Delibori 2010 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. Straightforward but structured,

this opens with aromas of leafy underbrush, wet soil and stewed plum. The palate offers dried cherry, raisin, nutmeg and seasoned herbs framed by firm tannins. Arctic Beverage, LLC. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $45

89 Luciano Arduini 2011 Amarone della Val-policella Classico. This brawny wine leads

with aromas of ripe black fruit, resin and leather. The robust palate delivers crushed plum, prune and nutmeg notes framed in chewy tannins. Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. —K.O. abv: 16% Price: $45

89 Villa Girardi 2009 Opere di San Pietro (Ama-rone della Valpolicella Classico). Aromas

suggest underbrush, toast, black plum, leather and a whiff of cooking spices. The straightforward pal-ate delivers ripe black cherry, mocha and chocolate alongside velvety tannins. It’s already surprisingly accessible but will maintain for another four or five years at least. Drink through 2019. Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $76

88 Secondo Marco 2008 Amarone della Valpoli-cella Classico. Big and muscular, this opens

with aromas of blackcurrant, grilled pepper and ex-otic spice. The solid palate delivers grilled porcini mushroom, roasted coffee bean and prune alongside teeth-coating tannins. Enoclassica Selection. —K.O. abv: 16% Price: $50

87 Cecilia Beretta 2009 Terre di Cariano Riserva (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Aro-

mas of scorched earth, leather, mature black fruit and a touch of graphite lead the nose on this full-bodied, straightforward wine. The solid palate of-fers up plum and dried black cherry alongside as-tringent tannins that give it a clipped finish. Casa Bruno. —K.O. abv: 15.5% Price: $40

87 Domìni Veneti 2008 Monte (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). An unusual mélange

of aromas includes asphalt, vanilla and blackberry jam. The extracted palate delivers plum marinated in spirits and sweet baking spices alongside astrin-gent tannins and the tingle of evident alcohol. Do-mini Veneti USA. —K.O. abv: 16.5% Price: $80

87 Domìni Veneti 2008 San Rocco (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Dense and ex-

tracted, this opens with aromas of roasted herbs, leafy underbrush, vanilla and plum cake. The syr-upy palate offers blueberry extract and sweet bak-ing spices framed by grippy tannins. Domini Veneti USA. —K.O. abv: 16.5% Price: $80

87 Giuseppe Campagnola 2009 Caterina Zar-dini Riserva (Amarone della Valpolicella Clas-

sico). Aromas of cream caramel, baked plum, vanilla and coffee carry over to the palate along with prune and toast. It ends quickly on a note of raspy, astrin-gent tannins that leave the mouth feeling dry. Supe-rior Wines, Wine Warehouse. —K.O. abv: 15.5% Price: $90

87 Zeni 2009 Barriques (Amarone della Valpo-licella Classico). Aromas of resin, nail pol-

ish, plum-steeped-in-spirits and dried tobacco leaf waft out of the glass. The palate is evolved but still offers fig, dried date and coconut alongside astrin-gent wood tannins that leave a mouth-drying finish. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —K.O. abv: 16% Price: $65

86 Antica Corte 2011 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. An unusual combination of aro-

mas includes floral air freshener, grilled bell pepper and dried blackcurrant. The palate offers soy sauce, raisin and dried sage alongside teeth-coating tan-nins. Saranty Imports. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $47

86 Savoia 2007 Vigneto dei Coali (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Inky and impen-

etrable, this wine opens with aromas of nail polish,

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resin and stewed black fruit. The evolved palate re-flects the heat of the vintage and is aging quickly, offering raisin and dried sage alongside fleeting tan-nins. —K.O. abv: 16.5% Price: $50

AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA

90 Fattori 2009 Amarone della Valpolicella. This savory, structured wine opens with

aromas of blue flower, baked plum, vanilla and mo-cha. The juicy palate doles out crushed black cherry, cinnamon and chocolate alongside velvety tannins that give it a smooth mouthfeel. Multiple U.S. im-porters. —K.O. abv: 16% Price: $90

90 Tenute Fiorebelli 2010 Coste Bianche (Ama-rone della Valpolicella). Aromas of under-

brush, milk chocolate, fig and clove lead the nose on this full-bodied but straightforward wine. The ripe palate doles out crushed blackberry, cinnamon and ground red pepper alongside solid tannins. Just enough fresh acidity makes it surprisingly drink-able. Traditional Wine Innovations LLC. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $60

89 Albino Armani 2009 Amarone della Valpo-licella. Blackberry, underbrush, mocha and

baking spice aromas lead the nose on this hearty wine. The dense palate offers mature black plum, dill, clove and hints of black pepper alongside brac-ing tannins. Saranty Imports. —K.O. abv: 15.5% Price: $50

88 Corte del Sole 2010 Amarone della Valpoli-cella. In this hearty wine, aromas suggest

menthol, leather, espresso and mature, black fruit. The dense palate offers prune, roasted coffee bean, licorice and toasted notes alongside astringent tan-nins. August Wine Group, Bacco Wine and Spirit. —K.O. abv: 15.5% Price: $49

88 Monte Zovo 2008 Riserva (Amarone della Valpolicella). This robust wine opens with

aromas that recall leafy underbrush, grilled mush-room, toast and prune. The palate delivers roasted coffee bean, fig and nutmeg alongside smooth tan-nins. It’s at its ideal drinking window so enjoy now through 2018. Wine 4 All. —K.O. abv: 16% Price: $60

88 Trabucchi d’Illasi 2006 Cent’Anni Riserva (Amarone della Valpolicella). Leafy un-

derbrush, moist soil, asphalt and sweet plum take center stage on this dense wine. The palate delivers espresso, toasted oak, vanilla and dried black cherry alongside drying wood tannins. Caroline Debbané Selections. —K.O. abv: 15.5% Price: $130

88 Villa Canestrari 2008 A (Amarone della Val-policella). Subdued aromas suggest leather,

dried tobacco leaf, prune and fennel. The hearty palate offers stewed prune, dried black cherry, lico-rice and a black pepper note alongside assertive tannins. Nawrocki Imports. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $59

87 Villa Canestrari 2007 Plenum (Amarone della Valpolicella). Aromas recall grilled herb,

stewed plum, leather and scorched earth. The palate is rather evolved, offering prune, dried black cherry and sage alongside fleeting tannins. Nawrocki Im-ports. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $77

87 Villa Canestrari 2005 10 Anni Riserva (Ama-rone della Valpolicella). Packaged in an ex-

tremely heavy bottle, this features aromas of mo-cha, vanilla, mature black plum and grilled sage. The evolved palate offers up prune, raisin, black pepper and roasted coffee bean but it lacks the fruit rich-ness to support the oak. Nawrocki Imports. —K.O. abv: 16% Price: $300

86 Tinazzi 2010 Ca’ de’ Rocchi La Bastia (Ama-rone della Valpolicella). Packaged in an ex-

ceedingly heavy and cumbersome bottle, this wine is rather inexpressive. It eventually reveals subdued aromas of wet, leafy underbrush, prune, toasted oak, espresso and vanilla that carry over to the pal-ate alongside fleeting tannins. Opera Wine Imports. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $46

VERONESE

90 Bolla 2011 Creso (Veronese). For full review see page 10.

abv: 15.5% Price: $25

89 Cesari 2010 Jèma Corvina (Veronese). This opens with earthy aromas of tilled earth,

overripe fruit, leather and whiff of game. The soft, savory palate offers spicy plum, crushed blackber-ry, clove and mocha alongside soft tannins. Drink through 2016. Opici Wines. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $48

87 Tommasi 2012 Arele (Veronese). A blend of Corvina, Rondinella, Oseleta and Merlot,

this juicy wine delivers ripe plum, black cherry and raspberry flavors alongside soft, supple tan-nins. Round and ready, it’s made to be enjoyed soon. Drink through 2018. Vintus LLC. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $17

OTHER RED WINES

92 Bertani 2011 Villa Arvedi (Amarone della Valpolicella Valpantena). For full review see

page 6.abv: 15.5% Price: $55

88 Elena Walch 2013 Schiava (Alto Adige). A perfect summer red, this refreshing, light-

bodied wine from northern Italy, made with the na-tive Schiava grape, is loaded with bright red cherry, strawberry and white almond sensations. Thanks to soft acidity and supple tannins, it’s an ideal wine to serve chilled and sip as an apéritif or pair with seafood. Chambers & Chambers. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

87 Cliffhanger Vineyards 2013 Estate Grown Pro-prietary Red Blend (Vigneti delle Dolomiti).

For full review see page 13. abv: 13% Price: $14

PROSECCO

90 Adami 2013 Sul Lievito (Prosecco di Valdob-biadene). Made by refermenting in the bot-

tle and leaving it on its lees without disgorging, this offers savory flavors of juicy lime, ripe pear, mineral and a yeasty note of baked bread alongside a soft mousse. It’s dry and balanced with lively acidity. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —K.O. abv: 11% Price: $18

90 Le Vigne di Alice 2011 Alice .g Metodo Clas-sico (Prosecco di Conegliano e Valdobbiad-

ene). Savory and refreshing, this Prosecco is made using the traditional method of refermenting in the bottle. It offers tart green apple and baked vanilla cookie aromas that carry over to the palate along with bright citrus notes. It’s nicely balanced with brisk acidity and small, persistent bubbles. Porto Vino Italiano. —K.O. abv: 11.5% Price: $48

90 Sorelle Bronca 2013 Difetto Perfetto (Pro-secco di Valdobbiadene). This lovely wine

opens with aromas of yellow flower, pear and yel-low apple. The juicy fruit sensations carry over to the palate along with citrusy lemon, yellow peach, mineral and a light, salty note accompanied by fresh acidity and a delicate mousse. Refermented in the bottle but not disgorged, it has a light layer of sedi-ment on the bottom of the bottle that adds to the depth of flavors. Oliver McCrum Wines. —K.O. abv: 11% Price: $23

87 Soligo NV Col Fondo (Prosecco). Refermented in the bottle, this lively wine delivers yeasty

flavors of bread crust, tropical fruit, green apple and peach. It’s straightforward and fun, with bright acidity and soft bubbles. Vinifera Imports. —K.O. abv: 11% Price: $19

OTHER SPARKLING WINES

92 Ferrari 2007 Perlé Nero (Trento). Toasted bread crust, citrus and apple are just some

of the aromas that characterize this lovely sparkler. A blanc de noirs made with 100% Pinot Nero, it of-fers a vibrant palate that delivers nectarine, roasted

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almond, pastry cream and mineral alongside persis-tent bubbles and fresh acidity. It also boasts enough structure to age for several years. Drink through 2017. Palm Bay International. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $78

90 Corte Moschina 2010 Metodo Classico (Les-sini Durello). Made from the Durello grape

cultivated on high hills of volcanic origin, this ele-gant sparkler opens with aromas of Spanish broom, hay and candied lemon zest. The bright, lively palate delivers creamy white peach, green apple, juicy cit-rus and a yeast note of bread crust alongside brisk acidity. Vi. Sco., Inc.. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $21

90 Corte Moschina 2006 Metodo Classico Riser-va (Lessini Durello). Made with the native

grape Durello, this opens with aromas of tropical fruit, citrus, alpine herb and a hint of beeswax. The palate delivers juicy white peach, green apple and a note of menthol alongside brisk acidity and small, refined bubbles. Vi. Sco., Inc.. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $40

88 Altemasi NV Rosé Brut (Trento). A lively blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, this

discloses fragrance of red apple, red berry and hint of hazelnut. The vibrant palate delivers juicy red cherry, strawberry and a touch of nut paste along-side a soft mousse. Palm Bay International. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $45

WHITE WINES

91 Cantina Terlano 2011 Nova Domus Riserva (Alto Adige). A delicious blend of Pinot Bian-

co, Chardonnay and Sauvignon, this delivers flavors of juicy Golden Delicious apple, lemon drop, nectar-ine and candied ginger. Fresh acidity brightens the creamy palate. Banville Wine Merchants. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $60

91 Tenuta San Leonardo 2013 Vette Sauvignon Blanc (Vigneti delle Dolomiti). This elegant

but firmly structured white wine opens with an alluring fragrance of honeysuckle, exotic fruit and cantaloupe. The linear palate offers juicy white peach, apricot and mineral alongside crisp acidity. Vias Imports. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $14

88 Manincor 2012 Moscato Giallo (Alto Adige). A dry Moscato, this opens with aromas of

grapefruit, clove and nutmeg. The palate delivers exotic fruit and juicy citrus balanced by crisp, re-freshing acidity. It closes on a succulent note. An-gel’s Share Wines. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

SWEET WINES

93 Comelli 2011 Eoos Picolit (Colli Orientali del Friuli). This beautiful, balanced dessert

wine opens with heady aromas of acacia flower, honey, alpine herb and dried apricot. The concen-trated palate offers mature yellow peach, lemon zest, dried herb and candied ginger alongside bright acidity that makes this so drinkable. It’s polished and delicious. Peter Warren Selections. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $45/500 ml

90 Coffele 2011 Le Sponde (Recioto di Soave Classico). Aromas of this dessert wine sug-

gest white flower, dried stone fruit and persimmon. The ripe palate doles out concentrated flavors of mature pear, banana, dried apricot and a hint of car-amel balanced by jfresh acidity. It closes on a note of white almond. Peter Warren Selections, Haw River Wine Man. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $45/500 ml

90 Fattori 2011 Motto Piane (Recioto di Soave). Dried lychee, apricot, and baked biscuit

aromas lead the nose on this enveloping dessert wine. The richly textured palate doles out honey, mature yellow peach, dried mint and candied citrus brightened by just enough fresh acidity that gives it a clean finish. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

90 Franz Haas 2011 Moscato Rosa (Alto Adige). This lightly fizzy, ruby-red wine opens with

aromas of white peach, clove, nectarine zest and rose petal. The elegant palate offers ripe stone fruit, cinnamon, red currant and rose hip jam. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. abv: 11.5% Price: $96/375 ml

90 Girlan 2011 Pasithea Oro Gewürztraminer (Alto Adige). Made with 100% Gewurtztra-

miner, this offers aromas of dried apricot, mango, tangerine peel and spice. The rich palate offers up candied citrus, acacia honey and toasted walnut. Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O. abv: 10.5% Price: $46/375 ml

90 Livio Felluga 2008 Picolit (Rosazzo). Made with native grape Picolit from Italy’s Fri-

uli region, this dessert wine delivers concentrated apricot, candied ginger, oak, vanilla, honey and dried exotic fruit. Pair it with seasoned blue cheeses or sip as a meditation wine. Mionetto USA. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $125

90 Pieropan 2009 Le Colombare (Recioto di Soave). Aromas of passion fruit, dried apri-

cot, dill and candied nectarine zest lead the nose on this concentrated dessert wine. On the palate, bright acidity adds freshness to the candied lemon, pastry and yellow peach flavors. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $55/500 ml

90 Tramin 2011 Terminum Gewürztraminer (Alto Adige). This intense golden-colored

dessert wine opens with an intense floral fragrance of Spanish broom and white rose. The sweet, con-centrated palate doles out apricot, acacia honey and cinnamon with just enough fresh acidity to balance the sweetness. Winebow. —K.O. abv: 11% Price: $65/375 ml

89 Cantina Produttori Cortaccia 2012 Dolce Bi-anco Aruna (Alto Adige). Made with 60%

Gewurtztraminer and 40% Moscato Giallo, this dessert wine opens with aromas of dried white rose petal, stone fruit and pineapple. The palate deliv-ers dried apricot, glazed orange zest and cinnamon alongside fresh acidity that carries through to the finish. Golden Horseshoe Inc. —K.O. abv: 12% Price: $18/375 ml

89 Case Paolin 2009 Soér Passito (Veneto). Made with Manzoni Bianco and Glera

grapes, this opens with subdued aromas of acacia honey and mature stone fruit. The sweet palate de-livers ripe yellow peach, candied ginger and toasted pine nuts. Superior Wines. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $40/375 ml

89 La Cappuccina 2010 Arzimo (Recioto di Soave). Made with 100% Garganega, this

amber-colored wine features floral aromas of dried white spring flower, peach blossom and stone fruit. On the palate, rosemary and honey accents add in-terest to ripe yellow peach. It closes on a note of white toasted almond. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $28/500 ml

88 Scubla 2010 Cratis Verduzzo Friulano (Colli Orientali del Friuli). Aromas of dried apricot

and acacia honey lead the nose on this smooth des-sert wine. The concentrated palate delivers candied citrus and white almond balanced by just enough freshness. Vinifera Imports. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $36/375 ml

87 Cantina del Castello 2007 Cortepittora (Re-cioto di Soave Classico). Muted aromas of

toasted almond, caramel and toasted almond carry over to the palate along with a note of honey. It’s structured but also rather evolved without much fruit richness remaining. Petit Pois. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $29/375 ml

88 Pisoni 2000 Vino Santo della Valle dei Laghi (Trentino). Made with 100% Nosiola, this

golden-colored wine tastes remarkably similar to a typical Tuscan vinsanto. The nose offers aromas of dried jasmine and toasted hazelnut that carry over to the palate along with caramel and dried almond biscuit. It’s already evolved so drink sooner rather than later. Cora Import. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $49/375 ml

WINEMAG.COM | 79

LOMBARDYFRANCIACORTA

90 La Valle 2008 Regium Brut (Franciacorta). An intense fragrance that recalls peach

blossom, lemon blossom and hints of green apple lead the nose on this sparkling Chardonnay. The creamy palate delivers white peach, Golden Deli-cious apple, almond and lemon pastry brightened by crisp acidity and a steely mineral note. Fine bub-bles add a touch of softness on the finish. L.A. Dick Imports. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $40

90 Lantieri de Paratico NV Brut Rosé (Francia-corta). This pretty, salmon-colored wine

opens with aromas of red berry, iris and a yeasty note of bread dough. On the palate, strawberry and raspberry take center stage while clove and vanilla add interest. It’s balanced with bright acidity, while a soft mousse adds elegance. Franciacorta Imports. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $35

90 Majolini 2009 Satèn Brut (Franciacorta). Foamy and fragrant, this has an intense

floral fragrance of jasmine, honeysuckle and or-ange blossom. The fresh, creamy palate offers white peach, baking spice and lemon pastry alongside a soft mousse. Franciacorta Imports. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $43

90 Villa 2010 Satèn Brut (Franciacorta). Made entirely with Chardonnay, this opens with

an inviting fragrance of peach blossom, pear and a yeasty note of cream-filled pastry. The creamy pal-ate offers up juicy white peach, green apple and lemon zest alongside an ultrasoft mousse. Just Quality Importer. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $40

89 La Valle NV Blanc de Noir Extra Brut (Fran-ciacorta). This sparkler made entirely from

Pinot Nero opens with aromas of ripe apple, Bartlett pear and toast. The linear palate weaves together peach, citrus zest and toasted hazelnut alongside persistent bubbles and brisk acidity. L.A. Dick Im-ports. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $37

89 Lo Sparviere 2007 Extra Brut (Franciacorta). Made entirely with Chardonnay, this pretty

sparkler opens with aromas of white flower, peach and citrus backed up by a whiff of bread crust. The vibrant palate delivers Bartlett pear, mature apple, lemon zest and toasted almond alongside a soft per-lage. Amici Imports. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $45

89 Villa Crespia 2006 Francesco Iacono Dosag-gio Zero Riserva (Franciacorta). Made pre-

dominantly from Pinot Nero and with no added dos-age, this sparkling wine delivers aromas of acacia

flower, toasted almond and honey that carry over to the palate. It has a fine perlage and a bone-dry fin-ish. Vinifera Imports. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $90

87 Contadi Castaldi 2007 Soul Satèn (Fran-ciacorta). Aromas of ripe Bartlett pear and

yeasty notes of bread dough and toast lead the nose on this brisk sparkler. The palate displays Golden Delicious apple skin and roasted hazelnut alongside sharp, persistent bubbles. Terra Moretti Trading. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $35

ROSÉ

90 Cà dei Frati 2013 Rosa dei Frati (Riviera del Garda Bresciano). Made with a blend of na-

tive red grapes Groppello, Marzemino, Sangiovese and Barbera grown near Lago di Garda, this refresh-ing rosato has class and breeding. It opens with floral aromas of white spring flowers, violet and berries. The savory palate delivers apple, cherry, almond and a hint of white pepper alongside lively acidity. VOS Selections. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $24

CENTRAL ITALYMONTEFALCO ROSSO

93 Adanti 2010 Montefalco Rosso. Structured yet elegant, this blend of Sangiovese, Sa-

grantino and a drop of Cabernet Sauvignon deliv-ers a medley of sensations including crushed blue flower, black cherry, blackberry, ground white pep-per, savory herb, graphite and cinnamon-spice. It’s impeccably balanced with fresh acidity and firm but refined tannins. Drink through 2020. David Vincent Selection. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $23

93 Milziade Antano 2012 Montefalco Rosso. A blend of 70% Sangiovese, 15% Sagrantino

and 15% Merlot, this bold wine conveys earthy aro-mas of blackberry, leather, tilled soil and a balsamic note. The ripe, creamy palate delivers juicy black plum, cassis, savory herb and baking spice balanced by smooth, velvety tannins. The lingering finish closes on a note of ground black pepper. T. Edward Wines Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $20

92 Antonelli 2008 Riserva Montefalco Rosso. Underbrush, violet, moist soil and spicy

blackberry aromas unfold in the glass of this re-fined, full-bodied wine. The delicious palate offers crushed dark cherry, raspberry, white pepper and clove alongside supple tannins. It ends on a mocha note. Drink through 2018. Omniwines Distribution. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $40

92 Di Filippo 2012 Sallustio (Montefalco Rosso). This certified organic wine—a blend of 60%

Sangiovese, 25% Barbera and 15% Sagrantino—of-fers an earthy aroma of scorched soil, leather, black fruit and grilled herb. The juicy palate delivers black cherry, blackberry, freshly ground green pepper and sage backed up by assertive tannins. Drink 2017–2022. Acid Inc Selections. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

92 Perticaia 2011 Montefalco Rosso. Vibrant and savory, this blend of 70% Sangiovese,

15% Sagrantino and 15% Colorino boasts juicy black cherry, blackberry and raspberry flavors, while notes of white pepper and cinnamon add depth. It’s balanced and delicious with fine-grained tannins. Enjoy through 2016. BelVino LLC. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $25

91 Antonelli 2011 Montefalco Rosso. Vibrant and savory, this blend of 70% Sangiovese,

15% Sagrantino and 15% Merlot delivers succulent black cherry, crushed plum, black pepper, grilled herb and mocha flavors alongside firm but velvety tannins. It’s well balanced with surprisingly fresh acidity for the hot vintage. It’s already drinking well but will be even better after 2016. Omniwines Dis-tribution. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $25

90 Cantina Fratelli Pardi 2011 Montefalco Ros-so. Bright and silky, this blend of Sangio-

vese, Sagrantino, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot offers aromas of blue flower, spicy red berry and a hint of leather. The savory palate offers layers of crushed wild cherry, red raspberry, white pepper and clove alongside supple tannins. Succulent and easy drinking, it should be enjoyed through 2016 to capture fresh fruit. de Grazia Imports LLC. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $19

90 Di Filippo 2012 Montefalco Rosso. Made with organically farmed grapes, this blend

of 60% Sangiovese, 30% Barbera and 10% Sa-grantino opens with aromas of tilled earth, blue flower, ripe berry and spice. The dense palate doles out fleshy black cherry, crushed plum, black pep-per and tobacco alongside firm but velvety tannins. It finishes on a succulent note. Acid Inc Selections. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $18

89 Arnaldo Caprai 2012 Montefalco Rosso. Blue flower, ripe black fruit, black pepper and

cedar are just some of the aromas offered by this blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Sagrantino. The palate features ripe black cherry, coffee, espresso, vanilla and grilled sage alongside bracing tannins. Drink after 2016. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $23

89 Arnaldo Caprai 2009 Riserva (Montefalco Rosso). A blend of 70% Sangiovese, 15%

Sagrantino and 15% Merlot, this opens with aromas

BUYINGGUIDE


of blue flower, plum cake, raisin, mocha and a whiff of resin. The dense palate offers blackberry, plum, vanilla, roasted coffee bean and sage alongside tightly compacted tannins that need to unwind. Fo-lio Fine Wine Partners. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $46

89 Le Cimate 2011 Montefalco Rosso. This blend of Sangiovese, Sagrantino and Caber-

net Sauvignon opens with a pretty floral fragrance of violet, iris and wild berry. The juicy palate doles out crushed black cherry, blackberry and cinnamon alongside firm but ripe tannins. Drink through 2017. Vintage Imports, Inc. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $24

89 Milziade Antano 2011 Riserva (Montefalco Rosso). Aromas of leather, prune, mature

dark berry and carob lead the nose on this warm, brawny wine. The ripe palate offers fig, black cher-ry-marinated-in-spirits, licorice and tobacco along-side dense tannins. The heat of alcohol is evident on the midpalate. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —K.O. abv: 15.5% Price: $30

89 Roccafiore 2011 Montefalco Rosso. A blend of Sangiovese, Sagrantino, Merlot and Cab-

ernet Sauvignon, this opens with aromas of violet, black currant, crushed plum, cedar and spice. The juicy palate delivers ripe blackberry, black cherry, white pepper and grilled herb alongside supple tan-nins. Enjoy through 2016. Multiple U.S. Importers. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $20

89 Tenuta Alzatura 2011 Montefalco Rosso. Aromas of truffle, ripe plum, grilled mush-

room and herb lead the nose on this full-bodied but wonderfully easy-drinking wine. The savory palate delivers juicy black cherry, crushed raspberry and cinnamon alongside supple tannins. Enjoy it soon to capture the fresh fruit flavors. Drink through 2016. Banfi Vintners. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $NA

89 Tenuta Castelbuono 2010 Ziggurat (Monte-falco Rosso). This blend of 70% Sangiovese,

15% Sagrantino, 8% Merlot and 7% Cabernet Sau-vignon offers aromas of underbrush, espresso, mo-cha and blackberry. On the palate, coffee and vanilla notes back up ripe plum, black cherry and white pepper. Firm, tightly knit tannins give structure but needs time to soften and unwind. Palm Bay Interna-tional. Best Buy. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $13

89 Tenuta Castelbuono 2009 Lampante Riser-va (Montefalco Rosso). Blue flower, ripe

berry and baking spice aromas unfold in the glass of this blend of Sangiovese, Sagrantino, Cabernet and Merlot. The juicy palate delivers black cherry, vanilla, cinnamon and espresso alongside bracing tannins. Palm Bay International. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $23

89 Terre de la Custodia 2011 Montefalco Rosso. Aromas of leafy underbrush, tilled soil,

game, and ripe black fruit lead the nose on this savory red. On the palate, notes of grilled sage and mocha back up the juicy black cherry and crushed raspberry fruit. Give it until 2016–2017 for asser-tive tannins to unwind. Marcello Guidi. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $17

89 Villa Mora 2008 Riserva (Montefalco Rosso). Violet, rose, mature black fruit, leather and

baking spice aromas open this smooth, structured wine. The palate offers prune, dried cherry, nut-meg and mocha alongside assertive, drying tannins. Drink 2016–2023. Allied Beverage Group. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $23

88 Cecchi 2011 Montefalco Rosso. A blend of Sangiovese, Sagrantino and Merlot, this

offers aromas of crushed plum, toast and espresso. The succulent palate delivers black cherry, rasp-berry, clove and coffee alongside smooth, polished tannins. Drink through 2017. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $NA

88 Lungarotti 2011 Montefalco Rosso. A blend of 60% Sangiovese, 25% Merlot and 15%

Sagrantino, this opens with aromas blue flower, red berry, baking spice and plum. The juicy palate offers crushed blackberry, vanilla and cinnamon alongside tightly knit but fine-grained tannins. Vin Divino. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $23

88 Romanelli 2010 Montefalco Rosso. A blend of Sangiovese, Sagrantino and small

amounts of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, this opens with aromas of blue flower, red berry, toast, espresso and a suggestion of incense. The linear palate offers dried cherry, prune, slate and licorice alongside grippy tannins. Drink through 2018. Si-mioni Imports. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

88 Tenute del Cerro 2011 Montefalco Rosso. Violet, ripe plum, graphite and espresso

aromas waft out of the glass. The palate delivers crushed black cherry, toasted oak, savory herb, and roasted coffee bean alongside bracing tannins. Vias Imports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $17

87 Campo della Maestà 2010 Montefalco Rosso. Aromas of crushed violet, earth, toasted oak,

espresso and wood chips lead the nose. The evolved palate offers prune, dried cherry, roasted coffee bean and ground pepper notes alongside assertive tannins. Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $23

87 Campo della Maestà 2008 Riserva (Mon-tefalco Rosso). This opens with aromas of

woodshop, sawdust, roasted coffee bean and a whiff of berry. The evolved palate delivers mocha, vanil-

la, toasted wood and dried black cherry alongside fleeting tannins. Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

87 Cantina Tudernum 2010 Fidenzio (Monte-falco Rosso). Here’s a blend of 65% Sangio-

vese, 20% Merlot and 15% Sagrantino that features aromas of toasted oak, leafy underbrush and freshly ground black pepper. The palate offers up dried black cherry, espresso, roasted coffee bean, graphite and licorice alongside drying tannins. It’s evolving quickly so enjoy soon. Enoclassica Selection. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

87 Moretti Omero 2012 Montefalco Rosso. A blend of 65% Sangiovese, 20% Merlot and

15% Sagrantino, this offers aromas of vanilla, cof-fee, espresso and plum. The lively palate displays ripe black cherry, black currant, toasted oak and mocha alongside drying, astringent tannins. VOS Selections.—K.O. abv: 14% Price: $25

87 Perticaia 2010 Riserva (Montefalco Rosso). Leafy underbrush, graphite, espresso, grilled

herb and prune aromas lead the nose on this blend of Sangiovese, Sagrantino and Colorino. On the pal-ate, roasted coffee bean, licorice and black pepper notes back up dried black cherry. Bracing tannins leave a mouth-drying finish. BelVino LLC. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $38

87 Rocca di Fabbri 2011 Montefalco Rosso. This blend of Sangiovese, Sagrantino and Mon-

tepulciano has aromas of toasted oak, mocha and blackberry preserves. The dense palate offers dried black cherry, fig, espresso, toast and clove alongside chewy, drying tannins. You’ll also detect the pres-ence of alcohol on the midpalate. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $18

87 Rocca di Fabbri 2010 Montefalco Rosso. This sturdy wine offers aromas of blackberry jam,

licorice, baking spice and a whiff of barnyard. The warm, robust palate delivers mature black plum, black cherry, black pepper, roasted coffee bean and sage alongside excruciatingly bitter, mouth-drying tannins. The heat of alcohol appears on the midpal-ate. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —K.O. abv: 15.5% Price: $32

87 Villa Mora 2010 Montefalco Rosso. Made with Sangiovese, Merlot and Sagrantino,

this opens with subdued, earthy aromas of leafy underbrush, tilled soil, berry and a hint of clove. The palate offers juicy wild cherry, raspberry, nut-meg and white pepper alongside mature and rather fleeting tannins. Drink through 2016. Allied Bever-age Group. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $20

86 Rocca di Fabbri 2008 Riserva (Montefalco Rosso). Aromas of resin, prune, mocha and

nail varnish lead the nose. The palate is already

WINEMAG.COM | 81

evolved, showing fig, dried date, black pepper and nutmeg alongside fleeting tannins and evident alco-hol. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —K.O. abv: 16% Price: $25

86 Signae 2011 Red Blend (Montefalco Rosso). A blend of Sangiovese, Merlot, Sagrantino

and a drop of Cabernet, this has aromas of toasted oak, rubber and roasted coffee bean. The subdued palate offers dried black cherry, dried sage and black pepper alongside evolved, fleeting tannins. Allied Beverage Group. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $20

86 Signae 2009 Montefalco Rosso. Aromas suggest toasted oak, green peppercorn,

espresso, woodshop and sawdust. The palate is starting to dry up, displaying dried cherry, roasted coffee bean and evident alcohol alongside raspy tan-nins. Allied Beverage Group. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

86 Tabarrini 2011 Montefalco Rosso. This brawny red conveys aromas of wood shop,

oak, spearmint and coffee. The one-dimensional palate displays oak extract, dried red berry, and roasted coffee bean alongside drying wood tannins. It doesn’t have enough fruit richness to balance the oak and the heat of alcohol is evident on the midpal-ate. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $29

85 Bocale 2011 Montefalco Rosso. Aromas of espresso, oak, vanilla, prune and mocha fol-

low through to the warm palate along with dried black cherry, fig, roasted coffee bean, powdered sage and evident alcohol. It’s already evolved, with fleet-ing but drying tannins. Golden State Wine. —K.O. abv: 15.5% Price: $20

85 Signae 2008 Riserva (Montefalco Rosso). Woodshop aromas, toast, espresso and ce-

dar aromas lead the nose. The palate offers dried currants, vanilla-infused oak, roasted coffee bean, dried sage and black pepper. This is already evolved and lacks fruit richness. Allied Beverage Group. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $34

MONTEFALCO SAGRANTINO

96 Milziade Antano 2010 Colleallodole (Monte-falco Sagrantino). Rich and concentrated,

this gorgeous, terroir-driven wine opens with aro-mas of crushed blue flower, graphite, plum and pipe tobacco. The powerful but weightless palate weaves together ripe black cherry, blackberry, clove, black pepper and mineral while velvety tannins offer sup-port. Drink 2016–2035. T. Edward Wines Ltd. Cel-lar Selection. —K.O. abv: 15.5% Price: $70

95 Arnaldo Caprai 2010 25 Anni (Montefalco Sa-grantino). Aromas of black cherry marinat-

ed in spirits, leather, underbrush, licorice and black pepper unfold in the glass of this sleek, powerfully structured wine. The glossy palate doles out mature black plum, blackberry, clove, nutmeg, grilled herb and mocha while a licorice note closes the linger-ing finish. It’s still young and tightly wound with an assertive, tannic backbone. Drink 2018–2030. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $100

95 Cantina Fratelli Pardi 2010 Sacrantino (Mon-tefalco Sagrantino). Blue flower, moist soil,

leather, game, ripe dark berry and graphite are just some of the aromas of this powerfully structured, delicious wine. The palate delivers layers of juicy black cherry, blackberry, raspberry, white pepper and clove alongside youthfully assertive but ripe tannins. Drink 2017–2030. de Grazia Imports LLC. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 15.5% Price: $60

95 Milziade Antano 2010 Montefalco Sagran-tino. Smooth and velvety, this powerfully

structured wine opens with earthy aromas of tilled soil, mature plum, game, leather and just a hint of barnyard. The ripe palate doles out layers juicy blackberry, black cherry, tobacco, nutmeg and ground black pepper alongside big, velvety tannins. Hold for complexity. Drink 2018–2035. T. Edward Wines Ltd. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 15.5% Price: $40

94 Tenuta Bellafonte 2010 Montefalco Sagran-tino. Forest floor, ripe black fruit, truffle,

leather and balsamic aromas open this bold, con-centrated wine. The delicious palate offers layers of blackberry, spicy plum, black pepper, cassis and sa-vory herb alongside big, velvety tannins. It has bal-ance and depth but it’s still young and needs time to develop complexity. Drink 2018–2030. Empson USA Ltd. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $55

94 Tenuta Castelbuono 2008 Carapace Monte-falco Sagrantino. Ripe black plum, leather,

game, truffle, blackberry and tobacco aromas unfold in the glass. These follow through to the rich palate along with black cherry, clove and baking spice. It’s structured but elegant, with velvety tannins and a smooth texture. Drink 2016–2028. Palm Bay Inter-national. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $35

93 Antonelli 2009 Montefalco Sagrantino. Prune, ripe berries, freshly ground black

pepper and clove aromas lead the nose on this ripe, muscular wine. The palate delivers black cherry marinated in spirits and juicy plum while accents of nutmeg, tobacco and licorice add depth. It’s still young, with youthfully assertive and tightly com-pact tannins. Drink 2017–2024. Omniwines Distri-bution. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $50

93 Cantina Fratelli Pardi 2009 Montefalco Sa-grantino. Crushed black raspberry, plum,

clove and white pepper are among the inviting aro-mas of this bold wine. The richly textured palate offers blackberry, mature cherry, black pepper and baking spice. Thanks to smooth, velvety tannins, it seamlessly combines power and grace. Drink 2016–2022. de Grazia Imports LLC. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $38

92 Adanti 2007 Montefalco Sagrantino. Aro-mas of underbrush, leather, truffle and a

balsamic note lead the nose on this lush wine. On the concentrated palate, ripe plum and blackberry take center stage while notes of vanilla, mocha, lico-rice and clove play supporting roles. Velvety tannins generate a smooth texture and make it extremely approachable. Drink through 2019. David Vincent Selection. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

92 Arnaldo Caprai 2009 25 Anni (Montefalco Sagrantino). Blue flower, leather, tobacco,

espresso and spicy plum aromas unfold in the glass. The tightly wound palate offers toasted oak, coffee, sage and dried black fruit alongside bracing, teeth-coating tannins. Give this time to unwind. Drink 2017–2024. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $100

92 Arnaldo Caprai 2009 Collepiano (Monte-falco Sagrantino). Polished and spicy, this

structured wine features aromas of leather, truffle, blackberry and savory herb. The juicy palate deliv-ers layers of fleshy black plum, black cherry, freshly ground peppercorn, tobacco and thyme alongside big, velvety tannins. Drink 2016–2024. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

91 Antonelli 2007 Chiusa di Pannone (Montefal-co Sagrantino). A subdued nose offers whiffs

of leather, tobacco, black plum and an earthy note of game. The palate delivers blackberry, prune, white pepper and savory herb. It’s already accessible with smooth, almost slippery tannins. Drink through 2019. Omniwines Distribution. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $70

91 Di Filippo 2010 Etnico (Montefalco Sagran-tino). Earthy aromas of leafy underbrush,

leather, ripe blackberry, savory herb and baking spice lead the nose on this warm, full-bodied red. The lush, juicy palate offers ripe black plum, fig, black pepper and graphite alongside velvety tan-nins. A licorice note signals the close. Acid Inc Se-lections. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $35

91 Falesco 2010 RC2 (Montefalco Sagrantino). Aromas of plum cake, spicy blueberry and

cocoa unfold in the glass of this structured wine. The palate delivers black cherry, vanilla, graphite, ground black pepper and well-integrated oak along-side assertive but refined tannins. It has muscle

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but also shows elegance and restraint. Drink 2015–2025. Winebow. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

90 Arnaldo Caprai 2010 Collepiano (Montefalco Sagrantino). Aromas of spicy plum cake,

blueberry, forest floor, leather, oak and resin un-fold in the glass. The palate weaves together black cherry, blackberry, licorice and tobacco alongside youthfully austere tannins that need time to soften and unwind. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

90 Romanelli 2010 Montefalco Sagrantino. Un-derbrush, forest floor, crushed violet, new

leather, mature plum and graphite aromas lead the nose on this brawny red. The hearty palate delivers dried black cherry, blackberry, nutmeg, grilled sage and licorice alongside youthfully aggressive but ripe tannins. Drink 2015–2025. Simões Imports. —K.O. abv: 15.5% Price: $40

90 Terre de la Custodia 2003 Exubera (Mon-tefalco Sagrantino). This brawny, earthy

11-year-old opens with aromas of leather, game, to-bacco, graphite and mature plum. Given its age, it’s surprisingly youthful, displaying dried dark cherry, fig, prune, black pepper and tobacco flavors along-side an assertive, tannic backbone. Drink through 2018. Marcello Guidi. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $100

89 Campo della Maestà 2009 Montefalco Sa-grantino. Full-bodied but accessible, this

delivers ripe dark cherry, plum, black pepper and clove flavors. Fresh and balanced with polished tan-nins, it’s already drinking well. Drink through 2019. Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

89 Cantina Tudernum 2009 Fidenzio (Monte-falco Sagrantino). Leather, tobacco, mature

plum and clove aromas unfold in the glass. The robust palate doles out fleshy blackberry, cherries marinated in spirits, licorice and nutmeg while as-sertive tannins offer support. The heat of alcohol shows on the finish. Drink through 2019. Enoclas-sica Selection. —K.O. abv: 15.5% Price: $45

89 Cecchi 2010 Montefalco Sagrantino. Truffle, game, leather and black plum aromas open

this earthy, full-bodied red. The palate offers ripe blackberry, juicy black cherry, mocha, white pepper and savory herb alongside assertive, drying tannins. It ends on a licorice note. Terlato Wines Interna-tional. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $37

89 Roccafiore 2009 Montefalco Sagrantino. Robust and concentrated, this has a sub-

dued nose that offers whiffs of steeped plum, forest floor and allspice. The palate displays dried black cherry, blackberry, espresso and grated nutmeg

alongside bracing tannins. Multiple U.S. Importers. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $35

89 Signae 2011 Semèle (Montefalco Sagran-tino). Aromas of prune, mature blackberry

and baking spice open this dense dessert wine. The palate doles out blackberry jam, dried black berry and vanilla alongside chewy tannins. Allied Bever-age Group. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $39

89 Villa Mora 2009 Montefalco Sagrantino. Spicy and full-bodied, this features aromas

of blue flower, ground black pepper, plum cake and a whiff of scorched earth. The palate offers dried black cherry, mineral, clove and a nutmeg note alongside tightly knit but refined tannins. It’s a fresher and more approachable expression of Sagrantino com-pared to many of the heartier versions out there. Drink through 2019. Allied Beverage Group. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

88 Di Filippo 2010 Montefalco Sagrantino. Made with organically farmed fruit, this

opens with aromas of ripe plum, tilled earth, leather and spice. The dense, warm palate delivers crushed blackberry, blueberry extract, oak, black pepper, espresso and cinnamon alongside big, velvety tan-nins. It’s flamboyant but it’s shy on freshness and the burn of searing alcohol throws it off balance. Acid Inc Selections. —K.O. abv: 16% Price: $50

88 Lungarotti 2009 Montefalco Sagrantino. Grilled pepper, stewed black fruit, black

currant, cedar and blackberry aromas lead the nose on this full-bodied red. The palate offers black plum, cherry marinated in spirits, black pepper and clove. It’s still tightly wound with austere, astrin-gent tannins. Drink after 2017. Vin Divino. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $42

88 Tabarrini 2010 Campo alla Cerqua (Monte-falco Sagrantino). Aromas of prune, wet

underbrush, leather, grilled mushroom and plum liqueur start off this robust wine. The dense palate displays dried black cherry, blueberry extract and black pepper alongside tightly compacted and still raspy tannins. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $68

88 Tabarrini 2010 Colle alle Macchie (Monte-falco Sagrantino). Aromas include black-

berry compote, game, overripe plum and allspice. The dense palate offers cassis, blueberry extract, black pepper and licorice alongside astringent tan-nins. The heat of alcohol shows on the midpalate. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $77

88 Tenute del Cerro 2009 Montefalco Sagran-tino. Aromas of leafy underbrush, roasted

coffee bean and dried black cherry open this robust wine. The palate offers prune, fig, oak, blueberry ex-

tract, vanilla and espresso framed in firm tannins. Vias Imports. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

88 Terre de la Custodia 2009 Montefalco Sa-grantino. The nose on this structured wine

is rather subdued but eventually reveals notes of crushed blue flower, blackberry and leather. The palate offers mature black cherry, raspberry, black pepper and sage alongside raspy tannins. Marcello Guidi. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $39

87 Bocale 2010 Montefalco Sagrantino. Thick and concentrated, this opens with aromas of

blueberry jam, toasted oak, wet underbrush, baking spice and a touch of vanilla. The tight palate offers dried black cherry, prune, tobacco, grilled sage and evident alcohol alongside astringent tannins that dry out the finish. Golden State Wine. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $40

87 Còlpetrone 2007 Montefalco Sagrantino. Aromas of game, tilled earth, underbrush,

leather, cocoa and scorched earth lead the nose. The evolved palate shows the heat of the vintage with stewed black plum, roasted coffee bean and mocha alongside fleeting tannins that leave a drying finish. The warmth of alcohol shows on the midpalate. Vias Imports. —K.O. abv: 15.5% Price: $58

87 Le Cimate 2010 Montefalco Sagrantino. Aro-mas suggest espresso, dried black currant,

cedar and grilled herb. The warm palate offers oak, vanilla, licorice, stewed prune and evident alcohol. There’s not quite enough fruit to support the iron-clad tannins that leave a mouth-puckering finish. Vintage Imports, Inc. —K.O. abv: 15.5% Price: $42

87 Moretti Omero 2010 Montefalco Sagrantino. Made with organically farmed grapes, this

has aromas of spicy blackberry, toasted oak, espres-so and spearmint. The palate offers oak extract, mo-cha, fig and licorice alongside clenched, astringent tannins. VOS Selections.—K.O. abv: 15% Price: $48

87 Moretti Omero 2008 Montefalco Sagran-tino. This hearty wine opens with aromas

of lily, dried blue flower and black plum. The lively palate offers toasted oak, blackberry extract, va-nilla and espresso alongside bracing tannins. VOS Selections.—K.O. abv: 15% Price: $85

87 Perticaia 2010 Montefalco Sagrantino. Roasted coffee bean, toasted oak, dried to-

bacco leaf and grilled porcini mushroom aromas open this powerfully structured, tannic wine. The palate displays dried black cherry, vanilla, licorice, roasted coffee bean and a confectionary note, but

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not enough fruit richness to stand up to the raspy, drying tannins. BelVino LLC. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $49

87 Tabarrini 2010 Colle Grimaldesco (Montefal-co Sagrantino). Spicy plum, overripe rasp-

berry, black pepper and espresso aromas open this concentrated wine. The dense, warm palate offers dark cherry marinated in spirits, dried blackberry, prune and licorice framed by austere, astringent tannins and evident alcohol that throws it off bal-ance. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $55

87 Tenuta Alzatura 2010 Montefalco Sagran-tino. Earthy aromas recall truffle, under-

brush, game and ripe plum accented with espresso. The palate offers spicy plum, dried blackberry, dried sage and licorice alongside massively astringent tannins. Banfi Vintners. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

87 Tenuta Alzatura 2009 Montefalco Sagran-tino. Aromas include underbrush, truffle,

plum, espresso and grilled herb. The palate offers prune, dried cherry, soy sauce, vanilla, oak extract and roasted coffee bean alongside bracing and rath-er astringent wood tannins. Banfi Vintners. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $40

86 Signae 2007 Amedeo (Montefalco Sagran-tino). Oak, toast, leafy underbrush and

steeped plum aromas segue to the palate that shows coffee, vanilla, stewed blackberry and a confection-ary note. The fruit is drying up quickly, making the astringent tannins and evident alcohol even more noticeable. Allied Beverage Group. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $108

UMBRIA RED WINES

90 Falesco 2011 Marciliano (Umbria). A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30%

Cabernet Franc, this full-bodied red offers aromas of red currant, cassis, grilled bell pepper and cedar. The palate delivers dried black cherry, espresso, toast, sage and mocha alongside assertive tannins. Winebow. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

88 Falesco 2012 Vitiano Cabernet (Umbria). Aromas of black currant, plum, toast and

espresso lead the nose on this young, soft Cabernet. The rich, easy-drinking palate doles out ripe black cherry and blackberry accented with notes of mo-cha and vanilla. Round tannins give it a smooth tex-ture. Winebow. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

87 Sportoletti 2011 Villa Fidelia (Umbria). A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and

Cabernet Franc, this dense wine opens with varietal aromas of bell pepper, black currant and cedar. The thick, evolved palate offers black fruit and exotic

spice but the fruit fades quickly, leaving raw alcohol sensations to dominate the midpalate and finish. Massanois Imports. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $30

86 Campo della Maestà 2011 Benozzo (Umbria). Made with 100% Sagrantino, this pres-

ents aromas of grilled sage, espresso, blue flower and blackberry. On the palate, mature plum and a confectionary note back up oak-driven sensations of coconut, vanilla and mocha. It’s already evolved and rather shy on freshness, with muted, fleeting tannins. Drink through 2016. Montcalm Wine Im-porters. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $33

LAZIO RED WINES

92 Falesco 2011 Montiano Merlot (Lazio). Rich and concentrated, this lush wine weaves

together crushed black cherry, spicy plum, ripe blackberry, ground white pepper and freshly grated nutmeg. Bold with velvety tannins, it has a smooth texture and a lingering finish. Winebow. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

90 Principe Pallavicini 2012 Amarasco Cesanese (Lazio). Made from old vines of Cesanese,

this structured red offers an intriguing fragrance of violets, rose, red berry, scorched earth and a whiff of nutmeg. The bright, juicy palate delivers wild cherry, orange peel, clove and baking spice along-side supple, smooth tannins. Vias Imports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $20

88 Falesco 2013 Tellus Syrah (Lazio). Aromas of ripe black plum, grilled bell pepper, bak-

ing spice and a whiff of blue flower unfold in the glass. The rich palate doles out fleshy black cherry, blackberry extract and licorice while smooth tan-nins provide support. Winebow. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $20

OTHER RED WINES

92 Lungarotti 2008 Vigna Monticchio (Torgiano Rosso Riserva). This iconic bottling, a blend

of 70% Sangiovese and 30% Canaiolo, features aromas of ripe black fruit, violet, grilled herb, toast and espresso. The palate delivers juicy black cherry, crushed raspberry, vanilla and mocha alongside firm but refined tannins. It closes on a licorice note. Drink 2015–2023. Vin Divino. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $45

88 Corte dei Papi 2013 Colle Ticchio (Cesanese del Piglio). A fifty-fifty blend of native

grapes Cesanese di Affile and Cesanese Comune, this savory, medium-bodied charmer offers juicy black currant, blackberry, white pepper and intriguing charred notes. It’s well balanced with fresh acidty

and lithe tannis that offer easy-drinking pleasure. Vias Imports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $19

88 Sportoletti 2012 Assisi. A blend of Sangio-vese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, this

offers ripe black cherry, red currant, raspberry and baking spice flavors alongside silky, supple tannins. Fresh and savory, this is a great wine for everyday fare and informal occasions. Massanois Imports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $16

87 Corte dei Papi 2012 San Magno (Cesanese del Piglio). Oak, espresso, plum and roasted

aromas lead the nose on this red made from Lazio’s native Cesanese grape. The forward palate offers wild cherry, coffee bean, tobacco and toasted oak alongside ripe tannins. Drink through 2016. Vias Imports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $29

87 Falesco 2013 Vitiano (Umbria). This savory blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and

Sangiovese delivers red currant, juicy black cherry, white pepper and a licorice note balanced by fresh acidity and polished tannins. It’s informal and made to be enjoyed young. Winebow. Best Buy. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

87 Lungarotti 2011 Rubesco (Torgiano). Fra-grant and refined, this easygoing blend of

Sangiovese and Colorino opens with aromas of blue flower and bright red berry. The juicy palate offers red cherry, crushed raspberry and clove brightened by fresh acidity and framed in lithe, subtle tannins. Drink through 2016. Vin Divino. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $15

86 Scambia 2006 Pinot Nero (Allerona). This Pinot Nero from Umbria unfolds with an

unusual combination of aromas that includes me-dicinal herbs, antiseptic, mint thyme and red ber-ries. The palate is almost sweet, with overripe strawberry and morello cherry accented with cin-namon and white pepper. There’s evident alcohol on the warm midpalate. Opera Wine Imports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $65

LAMBRUSCO DI SORBARA

90 Cantina Cavicchioli 2013 Vigna del Cristo (Lambrusco di Sorbara). Crushed violet and

ripe raspberry aromas lead the nose on this elegant wine. The creamy, frothy palate doles out bright sour cherry, wild strawberry, nectarine and cake spice. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. abv: 11% Price: $18

90 Cantina della Volta 2010 Rosé Metodo Clas-sico (Lambrusco di Modena). Elegant yet ex-

tremely accessible, this presents aromas of bright red berry, clove and a whiff of baked bread. The savory palate offers crushed raspberry, wild straw-

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berry, toasted hazelnut and cinnamon alongside a soft mousse and fresh acidity. Panebianco, Golden State Wine. —K.O. abv: 12% Price: $30

90 Cleto Chiarli 2013 Vecchia Modena Premium (Lambrusco di Sorbara). Fragrant and el-

egant, this vibrant wine has aromas of crushed violet and spice. The creamy palate doles out juicy wild strawberry, raspberry and cake spice alongside zesty acidity. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —K.O. abv: 11% Price: $16

89 Paltrinieri 2013 Sant’Agata (Lambrusco di Sorbara). Fruity, fresh and frothy, this sa-

vory red opens with a lovely fragrance of violet, iris and woodland berry. The tangy, refreshing palate doles out raspberry, strawberry, baking spice and a hint of nectarine zest. Porto Vino Italiano. —K.O. abv: 11% Price: $17

87 Cantina della Volta 2010 Metodo Classico Brut (Lambrusco di Modena). Made with the

Lambrusco di Sorbara grape, this conveys aromas of crushed violet, dried red berry and toasted hazel-nut. The lively palate offers raspberry, nut and pink grapefruit alongside persistent bubbles and brisk acidity. Panebianco, Golden State Wine. —K.O. abv: 12% Price: $25

87 Cantina della Volta 2009 Metodo Classico Brut (Lambrusco di Modena). Made with

Lambrusco di Sorbara, this sparkler opens with aromas of violet, iris and red berry. The juicy palate offers wild cherry, crushed raspberry and a yeasty note of toasted bread crust alongside crisp acidity and tingly, persistent bubbles. Panebianco, Golden State Wine. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $25

87 Villa di Corlo 2013 Primevo (Lambrusco di Sorbara). Violet and bright red berry aromas

leap from the glass of this frothy, informal red. The lively palate offers juicy strawberry, crushed ras-berry and light spice notes with just a hint of citrus. Savory and refreshing, it’s throughly enjoyable. Vi-nilandia USA. —K.O. abv: 11% Price: $17

86 Cantina di Sorbara NV Nicchia Amabile (Lambrusco di Sorbara). Fruity aromas of

ripe plum, crushed blackberry and wild raspberry follow through to the lively palate. It’s off dry, with bright acidity and a light effervescence. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —K.O. abv: 8% Price: $13

86 Cantina di Sorbara 2013 San Giuseppe Demi Sec (Lambrusco di Sorbara). This frothy red

dessert wine opens with aromas of blue flower, ripe berry and cake spice. The off-dry palate offers can-died red cherry, sweet plum, cinnamon and a con-fectionary note alongside bright acidity. Solstars Inc. —K.O. abv: 8% Price: $NA

85 Cantina di Sorbara NV Amorosa Amabile Rosato (Lambrusco di Sorbara). Intensely

fruity, this simple dessert sparkler offers juicy rasp-berry, crushed red cherry and strawberry alongside vanilla and a confectionary note. Bright acidity off-sets the semisweet flavors. Solstars Inc. —K.O. abv: 8% Price: $NA

84 Cantina di Sorbara 2013 Allegro Amabile Rosé (Lambrusco di Sorbara). This simple,

semisweet wine opens with aromas of blue flower and ripe red berry. The easygoing palate offers sweet candied cherry, strawberry, papaya and confec-tionary notes alongside fresh acidity. Solstars Inc. —K.O. abv: 8% Price: $10

84 Cantina di Sorbara NV Allegro Amabile (Lam-brusco di Sorbara). This deeply colored,

slightly sparkling dessert wine opens with aromas of ripe plum and raisin. The dense palate offers dried black cherry and sweet blueberry extract. D&D Italia srl. —K.O. abv: 8% Price: $10

84 Cantina di Sorbara NV Allegro Amabile Rosé (Lambrusco di Sorbara). This bubbly, semi-

sweet and simple Lambrusco offers bright fruit flavors of crushed strawberry and red raspberry alongside a confectionary note and tangy acidity. D&D Italia srl. —K.O. abv: 8% Price: $NA

LAMBRUSCO GRASPAROSSA DI CASTELVETRO

88 Cantina Cavicchioli NV Robanera (Lambr-usco Grasparossa di Castelvetro). Aromas

of crushed blue flower, spicy blueberry, juicy black-berry and baking spice characterize this savory, inky colored sparkler. The vivacious, off-dry palate is balanced by fresh acidity that leaves a clean fin-ish. It’s thoroughly enjoyable. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Best Buy. —K.O. abv: 9.5% Price: $12

88 Zanasi 2013 La Grasparossa Secco (Lambr-usco Grasparossa di Castelvetro). Plum, cas-

sis and blueberry preserve aromas open this bubbly Lambrusco. The dry, savory palate offers crushed raspberry, blackberry, graphite and a hint of clove alongside brisk acidity and chewy tannins. Summit Selections. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 11.5% Price: $14

87 Villa di Corlo 2013 Frizzante Secco (Lambr-usco Grasparossa di Castelvetro). Frothy and

robust, this presents aromas of blue flower, ripe plum, fig and cassis that carry over to the palate, along with spicy blueberry. It’s balanced with sharp acidity and hearty tannins. Vinilandia USA. —K.O. abv: 11% Price: $17

87 Zanasi 2012 Piè Franco Secco (Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro). Aromas of cas-

sis, spicy black plum and juicy blackberry follow through to the palate, balanced by ripe, round tan-nins. A licorice note signals the finish. Summit Se-lections. —K.O. abv: 12% Price: $25

85 Cleto Chiarli 2013 Centenario Amabile (Lam-brusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro). Frothy

and informal, this semisweet, fruity red delivers sensations of crushed black grapes, fleshy black-berry and wild raspberry. It has a clean, refreshing finish. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —K.O. abv: 8% Price: $12

85 Villa di Corlo 2012 Rossoestella (Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro). This frothy,

inky-colored wine has a floral fragrance of violet, prune and tilled earth. The semisweet, slightly tannic palate offers blackberry extract, raisin and a confectionary note. Pair it with fruit tarts. Vini-landia USA. —K.O. abv: 8.5% Price: $16

84 La Battagliola 2013 15 (Lambrusco Grasp-arossa di Castelvetro). This easygoing

sparkler opens with aromas of dark fruit and blue flower. The simple, zesty palate offers blackberry and blueberry alongside steely bubbles. Soilair Se-lection. —K.O. abv: 11% Price: $19

OTHER SPARKLING WINES

85 La Battagliola 2013 30 (Lambrusco dell’Emilia). Made with Grasparossa and

Ancellotta grapes, this simple, off-dry Lambrusco delivers dense blackberry, spicy blueberry, rasp-berry and black pepper flavors alongside chewy tannins. Crisp acidity gives it a clean finish. Soilair Selection. —K.O. abv: 11% Price: $19

84 Terre de la Custodia NV Sublime Gladius Brut (Colli Martani). A blend of Grechetto and

Pinot Nero, this conveys aromas of toasted walnut, apple and citrus. The palate is a bit disjointed, of-fering bitter apple skin and almond skin alongside candied lemon drops and a confectionary note. Marcello Guidi. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $NA

SWEET WINES

92 Arnaldo Caprai 2008 Passito (Montefalco Sagrantino). This rich, full-bodied dessert

wine offers aromas of spicy plum, blackberry, prune and graphite. The dense palate doles out layers of blueberry syrup, clove and nutmeg alongside fresh acidity that makes this very drinkable. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $54/375 ml

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91 Cantina Fratelli Pardi 2009 Passito (Monte-falco Sagrantino). This inky purple dessert

wine delivers high-toned fruit flavors of blueber-ry, blackberry jam, cinnamon, mocha and vanilla. Chewy tannins offer support and close on a nutmeg note. de Grazia Imports LLC. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $70/375 ml

90 Lungarotti 2009 Passito (Montefalco Sa-grantino). Aromas of mature prune, black-

berry and baking spice lead the nose and follow through to the rich palate along with cinnamon. It’s balanced with fresh acidity and chewy tannins. Vin Divino. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $60/375 ml

89 Còlpetrone 2009 Passito (Montefalco Sa-grantino). This concentrated dessert wine

opens with subdued aromas of dried black cherry, spice and raisin. The palate offers prune, toasted walnut and black pepper alongside polished tan-nins. Vias Imports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $33/375 ml

89 Villa Mora 2010 Passito (Montefalco Sa-grantino). This dense dessert wine conveys

aromas of fig, prune and blackberry jam. The pal-ate offers dried black cherry, dark chocolate and cake spice alongside chewy tannins. Allied Beverage Group. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $35/375 ml

88 Campo della Maestà 2010 Passito (Monte-falco Sagrantino). Subdued aromas of dried

blackberry, spicy plum and clove lead the nose on this dessert wine. The palate offers prune, dried date and cake spice alongside mellow tannins and just enough fresh acidity to keep it from being cloy-ing. Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $40/375 ml

88 Terre de la Custodia 2009 Melanto Passito (Montefalco Sagrantino). Mature plum, rai-

sin, carob and cinnamon aromas start off this dense dessert wine. The palate doles out concentrated blueberry, dried blackcurrant, cedar, candied gin-ger, chocolate and a note of black pepper. Marcello Guidi. —K.O. abv: 16% Price: $39


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This month, we’re taking a closer look at vodkas made with wheat. Compared to earthier potato vodkas and spice-laden rye vodkas, wheat-based vodkas are gen-

erally light and crisp, and often have a pleasing-ly silky texture.

To put wheat-based vodkas into con-text, Tony Abou-Ghanim, a Las Vegas- based mixologist and au-thor of Vodka Distilled, suggests thinking about baked goods made with the same grains used to make spirits. Where cornmeal muffins (a proxy for corn-based moonshine) are sweet and rye bread (or rye-based vodka) is ro-bust, wheat bread—and wheat-ed vodkas—will be “soft and ap-proachable.”

Although vodka is techni-cally defined as “colorless, odorless and flavor-less,” and producers deliberately seek to create a neutral product, many vodkas retain flavor characteristics, though often extremely subtle.

For example, Abou-Ghanim rattles off a list of flavors/aromas he often detects: “Vanilla, light pepper, bread-dough, malty, grainy, egg cream, cream soda—all these are notes that I at-

tribute to vodka made from wheat.” In addition, wheat is relatively high in acidity, he explains, and it’s common for the citric acid to reflect as a citrusy zing in wheat-based vodkas.

Ready to pop open one of the bottles listed below? Vodka is famously cocktail-friendly—and to best showcase a wheat vodka in a cock-

tail, make a beeline for the fruit bowl. Abou-Ghanim says that the vanilla sweetness found in wheat vodka balances when juiced with lemon and a bit of simple syrup, as in a vodka col-lins, or lime and sugar in a caip-iroska (that’s like a caiprinha, but made with vodka instead of cachaça). Or play up wheat vodka’s natural creaminess in a dessert-like cocktail, like a white Russian (vodka, coffee li-

queur and cream). But before you start mixing, Abou-Ghanim

suggests taking a moment to taste wheat vod-ka straight up and at room temperature to real-ly savor its “rich, creamy, full-bodied feel,” es-pecially if you can snag a non-wheat vodka to compare against.

—Kara Newman

How wheat it is: A study in vodka

Although vodka is technically defined as colorless, odor-less and flavorless, many vodkas retain flavor characteris-tics, though often extremely subtle.

96 Absolut Elyx (Sweden; Pernod Ricard, New York, NY). This vodka is simply clean, from

the mildly sweet aroma to the crisp finish. The pal-ate holds pleasant notes of marshmallow, grapefruit peel and chalk give way to a faint vanilla-citrus exit. Made from single-estate grain distilled in a 1921 copper column still, this is an ideal companion for pretty much anything served in a martini glass. abv: 42.3% Price: $49/1 L

92 Russian Diamond Vodka (Russia; DUN Bev-erage Partners, Sparta, NJ). Made from a

wheat and rye blend, this silky vodka is neutral overall, with a faint citrusy scent and mild sweet-ness on the palate. The spirit is filtered through a myriad of materials, including Siberian pine nee-dles, fabric, and as befits the name, various precious metals and stones.abv: 40% Price: $25

91 Voli Vodka (France; Voli Vodka LLC, Miami, FL). This vodka, made from French wheat, has a

hint of anise in the aroma and a slightly sweet vanil-la note on the palate, finishing brisk and citrusy. It feels light, almost airy, and will please vodka drink-ers looking to sip or mix. Best Buy.abv: 40% Price: $25

90 American Harvest (USA; American Harvest Distilling, Rigby, ID). This organic vodka,

made from winter wheat, veers into gin-like or fla-vored vodka territory, though the producer insists it is not a flavored vodka. Though it’s neutral on the nose, the flavor is relatively bold, suggesting melon, almond and vanilla. Best Buy.abv: 40% Price: $24/1 L

90 Slovenia Vodka (Slovenia; MHW, Manhas-set, NY). This spirit was created by Chef

Peter X. Kelly and his team to be “the culinary

vodka” for pairings and making cocktails. Distilled from winter wheat, “with just a whisper” of Slove-nian buckwheat (less than 1%), this vodka is gener-ally neutral on the nose and palate, with touches of grapefruit peel and white pepper on the astringent finish. Serve well-chilled and possibly paired with smoked salmon, cheeses or other savory treats.abv: 40% Price: $38

90 Tigre Blanc Vodka (France; Terlato Artisan Spirits, Lake Bluff, IL). Made in the Cognac

region of France and packaged in a particularly gau-dy, gold tiger-striped bottle, this vodka has a bit of spicy tiger bite up front, mingling ginger and white pepper before fading into a mild, smooth finish.abv: 40% Price: $102

90 Blat Vodka (Spain; Vinaio Importers, Bronx, NY). The producers bill this as “advanced

vodka,” distilled from non-GMO French wheat and claiming to be “the only vodka 100% free of impuri-ties.” Overall, the spirit is neutral on the nose and palate, with a tinge of marshmallow sweetness and a crisp, perky finish. abv: 40% Price: $39

89 Ultimat Vodka (Poland; Patron Spirits, Las Vegas, NV). Made from a blend of wheat, rye

and potato, this vodka has a mild citrus peel note on the bright, zippy finish and a silky, slightly oily texture that coats the palate. Ideal for mixing into cocktails.abv: 40% Price: $40

89 Premium Gera Vodka (Lithuania; JAE Im-ports, Richmond, TX). This wheat-based

vodka is neutral on the nose, while it’s lightly sweet on the palate, showing a faint rosewater note and pink peppercorn finish. Sip or mix into cocktails. Best Buy.abv: 40% Price: $18/1 L

89 Soyombo Super Premium Mongolian Vodka (Mongolia; MHW, Manhasset, NY). Look

for sweet marshmallow in the otherwise neutral aroma and flavor, plus a faint charcoal note on the palate. The finish is crisp, with fiery hints of anise and black pepper. According to the backstory, this vodka is distilled on the site of the last Mongolian Emperor’s palace.abv: 40% Price: $30

89 Van Gogh Blue Vodka (Holland; Van Gogh Im-ports, Orlando, FL). Clean and crisp, a gentle

breeze of citrus and pine seems to blow through this vodka. The dry finish is flecked with white pepper heat. It was made with a “triple wheat blend” of vodkas made from wheat grown in France, Germany and New Zealand.abv: 40% Price: $29

88 Absolut Vodka (Sweden; Pernod Ricard, New York, NY). Distilled from Swedish winter

wheat, this vodka shows a faint earthiness in the

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scent and fleeting notes of chalk, white pepper and lemon peel on the palate.abv: 40% Price: $20

88 CH Vodka (USA; CH Distillery, Chicago, IL). Made from Illinois wheat and rye, this

vodka is light and neutral, with a fleeting banana note and a flicker of black pepper heat. It finishes crisp, though it delivers a wallop of persistent, lip-numbing alcohol heat. abv: 40% Price: $35

88 Wheatley Vodka (USA; Buffalo Trace Distill-ery, Frankfort, KY). From Bourbon-maker

Buffalo Trace, this small-batch vodka is remarkably soft, with subtle undertones of vanilla and cinna-mon on the warming finish.abv: 41% Price: $18

87 Black Button Wheat Vodka (USA; Black But-ton Distilling, Rochester, NY). Made from lo-

cal wheat grown on a family farm, this “grain-to-glass” vodka is on the sweet side, offering hints of banana and an elongated vanilla finish with a clove-like spark.abv: 42% Price: $35

86 Catskill Mountain Whole Wheat Peace Vod-ka (USA; Catskill Distilling Company, White

Lake, NY). This robust vodka is made from New York red winter wheat in copper pot stills. The aroma is distinctly funky, while the palate shows subtle ba-nana and coconut tones that linger into the finish. abv: 40% Price: $28


96 Sierra Nevada Bigfoot Barleywine Style Ale (American barley wine; Sierra Nevada Brew-

ing Co., CA). Like its namesake, this is a behemoth of a beer, but it’s balanced and appropriately intense for the style. Bold, assertive scents of citrusy and piny hops lead the bouquet, supported by notes of roasted grain, caramel malt, toasted brown bread and cocoa nib. The palate showcases the rich, malty core at first sip, but soon after transitions into hop-fueled flavors of sticky citrus oil and pine resin that carry on long into the finish. The texture is smooth and full, with ample carbonation to keep the mouthfeel from feeling too heavy or flat. While it’s certainly enjoyable now, it’s also an extremely cellar-worthy selection, as it will mature beautifully for many years to come. Cellar Selection.abv: 9.6% Price: $13/12 oz 4 pack

95 Uinta Cockeyed Cooper Bourbon Barrel Barley Wine Ale (American barley wine; Uinta Brew-

ing Co., UT). This barrel-aged beauty is an intense yet balanced brew that will improve with age. The bold Bourbon-barrel notes of vanilla bean, charred

oak, baking spice and sweet oak partner seamlessly with tnotes of caramel malt, roasted peanut shell and dried dark fruits like plum, fig and cherry. The alcohol is high, and the mouthfeel is round and ro-bust, but it’s not overly warm or biting. Spicy or-ange rind and toasted wood flavors linger on the finish. Thanks to the bottle size, this is best enjoyed with family and friends when you do pop the cork, which shouldn’t be until 2016. Cellar Selection. abv: 11.1% Price: $13/750 ml

93 Alaskan Pilot Series Barley Wine Ale 2013 (American barley wine; Alaskan Brewing Co.,

AK). A full-bodied and flavorful selection, this is a vintage-dated beer that’s an ideal candidate for cel-laring. The rich, grainy core is loaded with sweet notes of caramel malt, toffee, Honeycomb cereal and molasses, but it’s balanced by assertive, resiny hop bitterness and a lingering astringency on the finish. Potent and smooth, with a creamy, mouthfilling tex-ture, the intense profile will mellow and harmonize

with time; hold this beauty until 2016. Cellar Se-lection. abv: 10.7% Price: $11/22 oz

93 Smuttynose Big Beer Series Barleywine Style Ale (American barley wine; Smuttynose

Brewing Co., NH). This attractive and expressive beer pours a deep copper-amber color, with a solid off-white head that leaves pretty lacing behind with each sip. The bouquet immediately offers intense aromas of citrusy whole hop, sweet malt, fresh grain and underripe stone fruit. The fruity tones continue through to the medium-weight palate, with solid flavors of nectarine and peach that are framed by bitter grapefruit pith astringency and a slightly sticky texture. The finish is long, with an appropri-ate lingering bitterness. abv: 10.6% Price: $9/22 oz

92 Stone Old Guardian Barley Wine Style Ale 2014 Release (American barley wine; Stone

Brewing Co., CA). This annual release is always a stunner from Stone, best known for its affinity to produce beers that showcase a strong hop presence, so it’s not surprising that the brewery would excel in this style category. Immediately attractive, the mahogany-amber colored beer offers aromas of ba-nana bread, turbinado sugar, caramel malt, toffee, molasses and dried dark fruit that are all married to a core of citrusy hops. The mouthfeel is smooth and satisfying, with a rich orange-oil flavor that coats the palate and lingers long on the finish, end-ing moderately bitter and pithy. Enjoyable now, but should hold well through 2016, at least. Cellar Se-lection.abv: 11.6% Price: $4/22 oz

90 Uinta Anniversary Barley Wine Ale (Ameri-can barley wine; Uinta Brewing Co., UT). This

rich mahogany-colored brew opens with decadent scents of toffee, caramel malt, molasses, candied or-ange peel, prune and dried fig. Those notes continue through to the robust and smooth palate, resulting in flavors like sticky toffee pudding and fruit cake that play nicely with hoppy notes of citrus peel and pine needles. The carbonation is low, contribut-ing to the full mouthfeel, while the finish is richly spiced and slightly warm. abv: 10.4% Price: $11/12 oz 4 pack

87 21st Amendment Lower De Boom Barleywine Style Ale (American barley wine; 21st Amend-

ment Brewery, CA). This beer pours a hazy orange-brown color and opens with scents of sweet pine-apple, caramel, brown sugar and candied orange peel. The mouthfeel is decadent and round, with low carbonation and dense, chewy flavors of sugar plum, caramel sauce and brioche French toast that flood the palate. Moderate astringency lifts the rich-ness on the finish, ending on a resinous pine note.abv: 11.5% Price: $12/8.4 oz 4 pack

BUYINGGUIDE

Though the name may be deceiving, barley wine (or barleywine) is in fact a kind of beer, not wine. Considered by many to be one of the finest and most cellar-worthy

styles of beer produced, these brews are not for the faint of heart, nor are they for those looking for a subtle or more nuanced drinking experi-ence. With names like Cockeyed Cooper, Bigfoot and Old Guard-ian, consumers can expect that the beer they have acquired is going to be some seriously in-tense and flavorful stuff.

As one of the strongest beer styles—alcohol range anywhere from 7–15% abv—there’s no shortage of heft here. Lively, fruity and always quite alcohol-ic, where they vary is in their sometimes sweet but sometimes bitter tendencies. The hops are a key component, especially in American offer-ings, and can range from a sweet, fruit-domi-nant presence to a dominating resiny, citrus oil character. The body is typically thick and con-centrated, with the alcohol definitely noticeable

but balanced by the intense flavor profile. Given the strength of their components and

high alcohol, most barley wines make excellent candidates for cellaring. They develop much like wine—the assertive flavors mellow and harmo-nize while simultaneously developing subtle nuances of age in the form of nuttiness, rancio

or Sherried notes. Many com-panies include a vintage date on these selections to assist con-sumers in keeping track of ag-ing. However, many brewers also feel that the beers are best consumed upon release or rel-atively young to maintain the dominant hop aromatics. Quite simply, it all comes down to personal preference.

Because of their intensity, barley wines are traditionally a seasonal release perfect for the cold months. More of a sipping beer, they’re perfect for warming the soul on a chilly win-ter’s night. So buy up your favorites now and get ready to toast to old man winter.

Prost! —Lauren Buzzeo

Warming up to barley wineBEER

Given the strength of their components

and high alcohol, most barley wines

make excellent can-didates for cellaring.

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WHEAT WINE

91 Smuttynose Big Beer Series Wheat Wine Ale (Wheatwine; Smuttynose Brewing Co., NH).

Smutty’s wheat wine offers a bit more nuance and restraint than its barley wine, starting with a flo-ral and almost ethereal bouquet of orange blossom, honeysuckle, apricot and fresh citrusy hops. The ro-bust yet lively palate offers flavors of wheat, caramel apple, orange peel and firm stone fruit, all intense yet harmonious and balanced. A medium pine-hop bitterness remains on the finish, and the alcohol warmth only shows when the beer warms. abv: 10.8% Price: $9/22 oz

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