Small Animal Restraint

Small Animal RestraintMichael LavoieVeterinary Assistant ProgramMiddlesex Community College09/24/2012

Animal Handling and RestraintAnimal Handling Skills-Professionalism and Safety The public watches us to learn how to properly handle animals. Being professional means being SAFE and HUMANE. Good animal handling skills prevent staff from being injured. Good animal handling skills reduce stress for the animal.Examples of Safe Animal Handling:Be aware of the special stressors for animals in the clinic setting. The clinic is extremely chaotic for any Many of our patients may have lived entirely outdoors and have not been handled or examined before. Even the most social animal may exhibit aggression Never put your face directly into the face of a dog or cat. Do not move in behind or crowd around a dog. Concentrate on the animal you are handling without being distracted by other activities. NEVER sit on the floor while handling/examining a dog. RestraintSafe and effective animal handling requires a thorough understanding of the normal behavior and responses of each species.Following is some general information on animal behavior and handling techniques.There is no substitute, however, for careful observation and experience.Important note:If there is any doubt about the temperament of an animal-ASK FOR ASSISTANCE. There are no extra points for being a 'hero'. The safety of our staff and patients is most important!CommunicationAny animal exhibiting potentially aggressive behavior should have a kennel sign (CAUTION) posted to alert others who may be handling the animal.You may see these placed in the file of the animal.At Pieper Memorial or Pieper Olson these aggressive signs will pop-up on the computer screen.CommunicationSpecific alerts or recommendations should be written on the sign and in the medical record to provide staff and other volunteers with as much information as possible when handling the animal.Restraint or ControlThe first rule to keep in mind when handling any kind of animal is that the least restraint is often the best restraint. This does not mean that you give up your control, just that you use as little restraint as necessary while maintaining control of the situation.Every animal and every situation is different so there are no hard and fast rules as to what method works best in which situation.Before attempting to restrain an animal you should take a moment to allow the animal to becomecomfortable with you:Crouch down so that you are on their level. Avoid direct eye contact but maintain safe visual contact with the animalTalk in soothing tones. Try patting your leg or the ground, motioning the animal towards you.

Types of RestraintVERBAL RESTRAINT:Many dogs know some commands or can at least recognize authority, even if the command is unfamiliar.Also, soft quiet words can calm a frightened animal.

PHYSICAL RESTRAINT: TOOLS AND EQUIPMENTThe most common tool used to handle animals in the clinic is the leash. Placed around a dog's neck it normally controls even the largest dog. In the event a dog refuses to cooperate with a leash carry him if possibleLeashesLeashes can be abused; never drag or strangle an animal with a leashPause and let the dog calm down and try again after reassuring her.Sometimes a quick tug on the leash will encourage a fearful dog to walk. LeashesWhen handling cats, a leash should be used as a back-up in the event the cat should become frightened and resist restraint. Make a figure-eight harness by looping the free end of a slip lead back through the metal ring.LeashesThe looser loop is placed around the chest behind the cats front legs and the other loop placed around the neck with the metal ring/handle on top between the shoulders. The harness should be put on at intake and can be left on the cat throughout their stay.EVERY animal being transported or handled in the clinic must ALWAYS wear a slip-lead.This includes puppies, cats and sedated animals. It is too easy for a frightened animal to get loose and escape.Animals presented on leash/collar should be transferred to a slip lead and the leash returned to the client so that it is not lost during the animals stay.Your HandA very effective form of restraint, your hands are sensitive to the amount of pressure that is being exerted on the animal and can be quickly modified to the situation. Although hands can be the most versatile, they are also the most vulnerable to injury. TowelsA towel or blanket is a very useful tool for cats and small dogs. A towel can be used to decrease an animals arousal by covering the head and body and can help protect from sharp claws.Control or Rabies PoleThe control pole is used to safely handle extremely aggressive dogs.Used appropriately it is an effective tool. The control pole may further distressIf an animal is aggressive enough to warrant the use of a control pole an experienced staff member should be consulted for assistance as the animal will also be evaluated for chemical restraint options.

NetsThe net is the primary tool used to handle fractious cats or wildlife. It allows for the safe handling and transfer of even the most aggressive small mammal. Effective use of the net requires some training and practice. If you need to handle a feral or fractious cat ask for assistance from a staff member.MuzzlesMuzzles are used when a snappy or potentially aggressive dog must be handled. There are nylon muzzles and plastic basket available. A leash or strip of rolled gauze can be used as a temporary muzzle.It is important that the muzzle be placed securely.Even with a securely placed muzzle, appropriate handling must be used to prevent injury from an animal who resists.

Cat MuzzlesMuzzles designed for cats extend up to cover the eyes, reducing visual stimulation. For some cats these can be very useful for calming the animal and helping to protect the handler from injury

DrugsFor animals who are too aggressive or stressed to handle safely for procedures, sedation and/or general anesthesia may be necessary to allow treatment. If you are unable to handle an animal, notify a staff member to determine whether sedation is appropriate.Credo: Never Let Go!The place where correct use of restraint is the most critical is when two people are handling the animal.This could be to perform a physical exam, administer anesthetic or to give medications. The "holder" is the person whose job it is to restrain the animal in such a way that the procedure can be accomplished with the least amount of stress to both handlers and animal.Credo: Never Let Go!The specific amount of restraint used to control the animal is the key to safety for the handlers and comfort for the animal.Too much restraint can cause the animal to fight back, too little restraint can result in the handler or others being injured or in the animal escaping.HandlingBefore handling the animal get his/her attention. Call the pet by name and encourage him/her to come to you. If the pet doesn't come, slowly approach from the front. Never surprise the animal by approaching from behind. Extend your hand, palm down.

Let the animal sniff your hand, then slowly move your hand to touch the side of the face then stroke the top of the head.If the owner is holding the pet, dont take the pet from their arms. Animals may be protective of their owners and may bite if they feel you are threatening their owner.

Lifting a DogTo pick up a dog to place it on the table, put one arm in front of the of the animals chest and the other either behind the rear legs, at the level of the stifles or under the abdomen and lift in a "scooping" motion. If the animal has a history that indicates abdominal disease, avoid lifting it under the abdomen as it may cause pain.

Lifting a DogA large dog may require 2 people to lift.One person lifts behind the front legs and the other under the abdomen.

Lifting a DogDecide BEFORE picking up the animal if it will be placed in sternal or lateral recumbency and if lateral, if the legs will be directed toward or away from the holders.

Getting An Animal Out of a CageMany animals are so happy to get out of a cage that they will leap without looking.To remove those eager pets, as you open the cage door insert your other hand into the cage to keep the animal from leaping to the floor. Place one arm in front of the of the animals chest and the other either behind the rear legs or under the abdomen to lift them out of the cage.Getting An Animal Out of a CageTo remove a cat, you can hold the scruff of the neck instead of placing a hand in front of the chest but hold the cat's weight by lifting the rear, not by lifting by the scruff.Animals who are frightened and don't want to come out of a cage can be difficult to handle.Handling animalsAnimals that are a danger to you or themselves can be handled in a few ways:Throw a towel over the head of cats and small dogs, then grasp the scruff of the neck through the towel, lifting the rear end with a hand or arm behind the rear legs to "scoop" them out of the cage.

A pair of heavy work gloves can be used to handle the animal.

Carrying a Cat or Small DogThe animal should be carried gently with minimal restraint but you should carry the animal in a position that allows you to increase the amount of restraint instantaneously.

This method shown below shows the animal's rear quarters are cradled in the handler's arm and the front legs are loosely griped with the same hand. The other hand is free to pet and stroke the cat's head but can also quickly grab the zygomatic arches to control the head if the animal attempts to escape.

Cat's will try to hide when frightened. You can carry a cat with one hand under the hind quarters and the other holding the scruff of the neck, letting the cat hide it's head.

RestraintMore is NOT better. Work with the animal in the position that the animal finds most comfortable yet provides you adequate exposure to do what you need to do. The LEAST amount of restraint that is needed should be applied."Talk to the animals" Many dogs and cats can be comforted by being talked to in a quiet, soothing voice. What you say is not important...the tone of voice is.

The client should not be the one to restrain their animal. A large number of lawsuits filed against veterinarians are by the owners who have been injured by their own animals. The owner can talk to and comfort the animal and can be within sight of the pet although occasionally it is better to examine the animal away from the owner.

Early application of a muzzle actually reduces the need for additional restraint. The need to apply muzzle should be explained to the owner in advance. Once the muzzle is in place the animals often "give up" and stop struggling.MuzzlesThe end of the muzzle can be closed (basket-style) or open.They can be made of leather, plastic or cloth. The plastic and cloth muzzles are easiest to clean between patients. Leather muzzles are difficult to clean between use and the leather gets stiff from saliva.The small muzzles used for cats cover the end of the face and the eyes. Fractious cats are much easier to handle when they cannot see the handler. They can be made of made of cloth or leather muzzles when being used as a hood.

Applying the muzzleThere are two ways to apply a muzzle:If the animal is aggressive it may be easier to get the muzzle on by approaching from the rear and quickly applying the muzzle over the nose and mouth.

If the animal is fearful, I prefer to apply the muzzle from the front so they can see me approaching. The basket style muzzles are easier to apply if the animals mouth is open (trying to bite) because this style is wider.Home-made MuzzlesIf a muzzle is not available a length of roll gauze can be used to create a muzzle. The gauze should NOT be stretchy (don't use "Cling" gauze). As the gauze is not very strong it should be doubled to increase strength.

The length must be adequate to wrap around the muzzle at least twice, then tie behind the ears.

A large loop is made in the center of the length of gauze. The loop should be about 3 times thediameter of the dog's muzzle.

The loop is placed around the muzzle and pulled tight at dorsum of the nose. A single knot is placed.

The ends of the gauze are then tied under the jaw with a single knot.

The long ends of the gauze are brought behind the ears and tied in either a square knot or a easy release bow. Tie a square knot and have a scissors handy in case the muzzle needs to be quickly removed.

Restraint BagsRestraint bags can be used to restrain cats and small dogs. The bags are made of canvas or nylon, with a hook or other type of fastener at the neck opening and one or more zippers (or strips of Velcro) to allow selective exposure of a body part. Instead of a restraint bag, a heavy towel can be used to wrap the cats body, leaving the head exposed but use of a towel is not nearly as effective as a bag.The open bag is draped over the cats back and the neck closure is fastened. The neck fastener should be tight enough that the cat cannot insert a front foot through the neck opening.

The cat is either flipped into dorsal recumbancy or held off the table so the longest zipper can be zipped. As you close the zipper, take care not to catch the cat's fur in the zipper.

Zippers are strategically placed around the bag to allow selective exposure of a body part. The image on the right shows exposure of the medial aspect of the hind limb for venipuncture or catheter placement in the medial saphenous vein.

Positional RestraintTo restrain an animal in lateral recumbancy the holder places their elbow over the neck and holds the elbow of the leg closest to the table. The other arm is draped over the abdomen of the animal with the hand holding the rear leg which is closest to the table. The limbs should be held at a point close to the body, if you hold the limbs too far distal, the animal has more leverage to roll themselves back into sternal recumbancy.The holder should only apply light pressure at all restraint points. If the animal struggles, the holder applies greater pressure and may learn their body over the thorax of the animal for additional control. As soon as the animal stops struggling, reduce the amount of pressure applied. Most animals quickly "learn" to lie still if you "reward" them with minimal restraint.

Cat restraintCats can be restrained in lateral recumbancy using the "stretch" method, holding the scruff of the neck and the hind legs. It is more difficult for the cat to get a hind limb loose from the grasp of the holder if the legs are held between different fingers of the same hand rather than both legs grasped together.

Saphenous VenipunctureThis photo shows restraint for a medial saphenous venipuncture. I prefer to bring the cat's body to the edge of the table (marked by the red X) so I can hold the limb off the table. More mellow cats don't need to be held by the scruff and can be held in lateral recumbency as described above for the dog.

This dog is being restrained for a venipuncture of the lateral saphenous vein. The holder is encircling the rear leg just proximal to the tarsus to cause the lateral saphenous vein to engorge with blood.

Restraint in Sternal RecumbencyFor examination, many animals will lie still in sternal recumbency with minimal restraint. Sometimes all that is required is for the holder to pet the animals head or lightly tap a finger on the top of the animal's head to distract the animal's attention from the exam.

The animal is restrained in sternal recumbancy for placement of a cephalic catheter. Notice that the holder is standing on the side of the dog opposite the leg that is being catheterized. The dog is restrained close to the body of the holder.

The muzzle is held away from the face of the holder and the person placing the catheter. She is reaching over the dog to hold off the vein and can apply downward pressure over the dog's back, if needed to keep the dog in sternal recumbancy. If the animal is not struggling, it is not necessary to apply pressure over the animal's back. The dog's leg is being held at the elbow to prevent her from pulling back her leg.

The thumb is placed on the medial side of the limb and then "rolled" to the dorsum of the leg, close to the elbow in order to roll the cephalic vein in a more dorsal location.

The thumb is being used to occlude venous blood returning from the leg, causing the vein to distend with blood. In some cases the vein will be clearly visible, in other cases you may palpate the distended vein.

The holder also prevents the dog from pulling the limb away from the venipuncturist.

Restraint for Jugular VenipunctureA jugular catheter can be placed with the patient in sternal recumbancy, with the neck extended upwards and the front legs held over the front of the table, or with the animal in lateral recumbancy.

Notice that the holder is keeping the dog's head directed away from herself and away from the venipuncturist.The venipuncturist is using one hand to press at the thoracic inlet to engorge and vein with blood and the other to manipulate the syringe and needle.

Restraint for Jugular VenipunctureThe cat is held positioned similar to the dog but the cat's head is held with the fingers on the zygomatic arches. The zygomatic arches are "natural cat handles" which provide secure restraint of the head without risk of compromising breathing.

Remember the Credo!NEVER LET GO!QUESTIONS?