slices of sydney
DESCRIPTION
Slices of Sydney makes up a ten course experiential meal, a degustation. Taste the distinct flavours of each village. A bus, train and cycle networkcrisscrosses the city, and so the order in which your courses are served isup to you. Be it the design-skewed sheen of Surry Hills; the indie scent ofNewtown; the modern tribalism relished in Redfern or the nonstop liberalheat of Kings Cross, each village will encourage you to find a new dimensiononly discoverable through experience.TRANSCRIPT
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a t a s t e o f o u r v i l l a g e s
s l i c e s o f s y d n e y
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1Slices of Sydney makes up a ten course experiential meal, a degustation. Taste the distinct flavours of each village. A bus, train and cycle network crisscrosses the city, and so the order in which your courses are served is up to you. Be it the design-skewed sheen of Surry Hills; the indie scent of
Newtown; the modern tribalism relished in Redfern or the nonstop liberal heat of Kings Cross, each village will encourage you to find a new dimension
only discoverable through experience.
Sydney is a city of villages. Each community radiates a unique
essence. Taste the culture and
take away a slice of Sydney.
ClovEr MoorE MP, lord Mayor of
SydnEy
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2Events & festivals to watch for while in SydneyJ A N U A R Y A P R I L
Sydney Festival sydneyfestival.org.au
Sydney Chinese New Year Festival cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au/CNY
Sydney Gay & Lesbian Mardi Gras mardigras.org.au
Tropfest tropfest.com
M A Y A U G U S T
Sydney Writers Festival swf.org.au
Sydney Film Festival sff.org.au
Vivid Sydney vividsydney.com
S E P T E M B E R D E C E M B E R
Sydney Childrens Festival sydneychildrensfestival.com
Art & About cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au/artandabout
Biennale biennaleofsydney.com.au
Crave Sydney International Food Festival cravesydney.com
Sydney Fringe Festival thesydneyfringe.com.au
Sydney Christmas & New Year Celebrations cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au/Christmas cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au/nye
Calendar of major events
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3P U B L I C T R A N S P o R T
Trains, buses and ferries are all interconnected, so you can hop between villages speedily. Sydneys villages are well serviced by public transport trains, buses or both and the inner city also has Light Rail and Monorail systems. Multi-trip bus tickets are available from most newsagencies, convenience stores and kiosks around the city. Look for retailers displaying MyZone or PrePay signage. Most bus trips require a PrePay ticket. For more information, call the free Transport Infoline on 131 500 or visit 131500.com.
T A x I S
Taxis are available when the yellow light is on and change over time is at 3pm, and 3am, when flagging one down is a little trickier. There are a range of taxi companies operating in Sydney.
Getting around
town
B I C Y C L I N G
Major connecting routes now consider the modern cyclist. Visit cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au/cycling for more information including route maps. You can also hire bikes to explore the city independently or with a tour.
S h o P P I N G T I M E S
Most shops, department stores and shopping centres are open from around 10am5pm Monday to Saturday and increasingly on Sunday. Late night shopping usually occurs on Thursday evenings, with many stores and shopping centres open until 9 or 10pm. Occasionally some shops will be closed on Mondays.
I N A N E M E R G E N C Y
Dial 000 for 24-hour emergency services (fire, police and ambulance) from any telephone. Police assistance line: 131 444.
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B E LVO I RT H E AT R E
ce n t r a l
O B J E C TG A L L E RY
B R E T T W H I T E L EYS T U D I O
S U R RY H I L L SL I B R A RY
P R I N C E A L F R E DPA R K
B E L M O R E PA R K
H A R M O N YPA R K
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0 400m
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L E G E N D
Cycleway
Train Station
Parks
Whats Hot
Free wi-fi
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B E LVO I RT H E AT R E
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O B J E C TG A L L E RY
B R E T T W H I T E L EYS T U D I O
S U R RY H I L L SL I B R A RY
P R I N C E A L F R E DPA R K
B E L M O R E PA R K
H A R M O N YPA R K
clev
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Surry Hills
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The original home to Sydneys rag trade, Surry Hills has evolved into a premier design village of crisp artisan concepts. Swells of coffee complement the woody designs of contemporary furniture and natural furnishings. The craft-based networks of Surry Hills constantly participate in Sydneys cultural evolution with a gentle eye on the global future of design.
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Stride with fervour & dress without rulesw o R D o N T h E S T R E E T
Cycleway on Bourke street The price of real estate Got a dolla?
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T Y P I C A L L o C A L
Typically atypical, Surry Hills locals are a motley cast of young professionals, creative types and radiant originals from post-war migrations of Greek and Italian people. With a median age of 32, this diverse suburb attracts animated humans who stride with fervour, dress without rules and have forged a very good work/play balance. They are third generation shoemakers, eco shop owners, twenty something graphic designers and Kylie Kwong.
D E F I N I N G E x P E R I E N C E
Poking around in village shops for a piece of contemporary furniture, lining up outside a restaurant that takes no bookings and dominating iPod wars at the pub.
K N o w N F o R
Art and design talent Rag trade roots Surry Hills Markets first
Saturday of every month Beer gardens Cheap steak nights Niche cuisines and fusions Community veggie gardens Dog friendly atmosphere
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U R B A N L E G E N D
In 1985 expressionist Brett Whiteley built a studio and private dwelling in an old T-shirt factory on Raper Street. The chaos and atmosphere have been preserved as a free museum. The entrance is tucked in an alley and marked by a tiny version of Almost Once, a sculpture featuring two redhead matchsticks.
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S E E
A letterbox replica of the church and former home of eccentric artist Madame Lash on Cleveland Street
T A S T E
Freshly baked organic spelt sourdough
S M E L L
The smell of fresh coffees and paninis in the air
D o
Pedal down Bourke Street cycleway with a basket full of produce
w A T C h
Dog/owner lookalikes
B U Y
Ironic knitted sweaters from second hand shops
A F T E R D A R K
Buzzing on Crown and Bourke Streets, and Cleveland between Elizabeth and Crown
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PA D D I N G TO NTOW N H A L L ,
C H AU V E L C I N E M A
& L I B R A RY
PA D D I N G TO NR E S E RVO I RG A R D E N S
V I C TO R I ABA R R AC K S
M O O R E PA R K
C E N T E N N I A LPA R K
T H R E ES A I N TSS Q UA R E
C O L L E G E O FF I N E A RTS
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L E G E N D
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PA D D I N G TO NTOW N H A L L ,
C H AU V E L C I N E M A
& L I B R A RY
PA D D I N G TO NR E S E RVO I RG A R D E N S
V I C TO R I ABA R R AC K S
M O O R E PA R K
C E N T E N N I A LPA R K
T H R E ES A I N TSS Q UA R E
C O L L E G E O FF I N E A RTS
0 400m
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Paddington
Paddington is bound by a love of heritage homes, leafy residential streets and flagship designer boutiques. Rows of chalky pastel terraces house Sydneys emerging and established sartorial scene. In Paddington artisans make chocolate and underwear by hand and have style that transcends seasonal fashions.
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Sophisticated class with considered quirksw o R D o N T h E S T R E E T
Is that an Akira? Yummy mummies 40km speed limit on back streets
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T Y P I C A L L o C A L
Paddington locals are a sophisticated class with considered quirks. They are business minded innovators in art and fashion and young families who eat well, dress well and are proud of the heritage of their village.
D E F I N I N G E x P E R I E N C E
Walking to the tailor and completing the outfit at the shoemaker and milliner across the street.
K N o w N F o R
Paddington Markets Saturdays Boutique shopping Launch pad for emerging
fashion talent Art galleries The Royal Hotel, the oldest
in the village One of the earliest settled
areas of Sydney
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U R B a n L E g E n d
Ex-convict entrepreneur and gin distiller Robert Cooper named Paddington after a London borough and built Juniper Hall in the early 1820s, Paddingtons oldest home.
Paddington Markets, Sydneys longest running community market, started in 1973 as a meeting ground for a handful of artists and designers to mingle, sell their wares and discuss the Vietnam War. Since then it has evolved into a thriving weekend market and a platform for an impressive cast of Australian design talent including Lisa Ho and Dinosaur Designs.
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S E E
The sunken water garden at architectural urban park Paddington Reservoir Gardens
T A S T E
Hand-made chocolate bits on William Street
S M E L L
The recycled tissue paper around your latest purchase
D o
Browse through racks of emerging fashion talent at Paddington Markets
w A T C h
An arthouse film at Chauvel Cinema
B U Y
A bespoke accessory from a flagship designer store
A F T E R D A R K
Pubs and venues on Oxford St near South Dowling St (Three Saints Square)
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D E N DYC I N E M A S
S T R E E T A RTM U R A L S
N EWTOW NL I B R A RY
E N M O R ET H E AT R E
CREATE YOUR OWN STORY
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D E N DYC I N E M A S
S T R E E T A RTM U R A L S
N EWTOW NL I B R A RY
E N M O R ET H E AT R E
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Parks
L E G E N D
Train Station
Whats Hot
0 400m
5 mins walk
newtown
On King Street you can dine on cuisine from any nation, listen to music of any genre, dress in the style of any decade and hold anyones hand you like. Find vegan foods, indie music, street art and retro fashion circuits within this warm cluster of workers cottages, warehouse bookshops, record stores and independent retailers. Newtown is a contemporary bohemia where dreamers and lovers wander between salty pub bistros, laneway festivals and fruity street performances.
Free Wi-fi
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friendly free thinkers who work outside the systemw o R D o N T h E S T R E E T
Its impossible to parkKing Street trafficPub renovationsWhere all the squatters went
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T Y P I C A L L o C A L
Newtown locals are friendly free thinkers who work outside the system. Their customised realities and independent businesses afford them great happiness. The bulk of Newtowns 14000 residents are well educated, live in share housing but have a loyalty to Newtown and may never leave. They are students, professionals, screen printers, healers and guitarists who are friendly and like to participate in free eco street festivals.
D E F I N I N G E x P E R I E N C E
A sneeze in a dusty bookshop, an in-store gig in a record shop and a local art show.
K N o w N F o R
Buzzing local pride Wide variety of food options Distinct subcultures Unpretentious Broad cultural appeal Pop-up Newtown Markets Newtown FestivalNovember The Sydney Fringe Festival September
Credit for mural: I Have A Dream, Andrew Aiken and Juilee Pryor, 1991
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U R B A N L E G E N D
Music has always been at the heart and soul of Newtown. In 1923 words and music to Newtown is an Old Town (that I love) were published by A.F. Lenertz (best known for the lyrics I Love Aeroplane Jelly). In the 1980s John Kennedy celebrated local landmarks and characters with his single On King St Im A King and The Whitlams promote the local music scene with their hit Blow Up the Pokies. More recently John Jacobs created the Wheelie Bin Sound System. You can now make your own by placing a car stereo in a 600L wheelie bin or on the back of a bicycle.
Among Newtowns notable residents are Murray Cook, of the childrens performing group The Wiggles, and Mary Reibey (17771855) a pioneering entrepreneur whose portrait graces the $20 note.
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S E E
The giant I Have a Dream mural featuring Martin Luther King and the Aboriginal flag on King Street that was originally sponsored by local philanthropist Tony Spanos
T A S T E
The cuisine of any nation in the atlas
S M E L L
The local pride
D o
Spot the distinctions between Newtown tribes from a King Street caf
w A T C h
A cult film at a retro restaurant, or a busker
B U Y
A camel skin lamp
A F T E R D A R K
Find high energy, low lit hotspots anywhere, anytime
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craigend st
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bay rd
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kell
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station
kings cross library
C O C A C O L AS I G N
TAY LO RS Q UA R E
A L A M E I NF O U N TA I N
NAT I O NA L A RTS C H O O L
T H R E ES A I N TSS Q UA R E
H Y D E PA R K
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kell
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kings cross library
C O C A C O L AS I G N
TAY LO RS Q UA R E
A L A M E I NF O U N TA I N
NAT I O NA L A RTS C H O O L
T H R E ES A I N TSS Q UA R E
H Y D E PA R K
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Kings Crossdarlinghurst
L E G E N D
Cycleway
Parks
Whats Hot
Kings Cross and Darlinghurst are gracious old places that have seen many faces. Towering art deco structures, former adult shops and tattoo parlours now foster a young art and dining scene. This densely populated landscape is radically authentic, story laden and stays awake all night. The hills and valleys of its urban cartography parallel the high lives and low times of its alternative history.
Train Station
Free Wi-fi
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Harmonious edit of gen ys, young couples, queer communities and eccentricsw o R D o N T h E S T R E E T
Oversexed, overpaid and over here Is that a man or a woman? You find this ugly, I find it lovely Why shes practically naked
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T Y P I C A L L o C A L
While aesthetically driven the people of Kings Cross and Darlinghurst are open to difference. The harmonious edit of gen Ys, young couples, queer communities and eccentrics are open-minded go-getters whose cosmopolitan lives are forced to overlap in the most populated slice of Sydney.
D E F I N I N G E x P E R I E N C E
Hopping between bars on Burton Street before a caffeine hit at a 24-hour coffeehouse.
K N o w N F o R
Mardi GrasMarch Kings Cross Organic
Markets Saturdays Sydney Sustainable Markets,
Taylor Square Saturdays Carlotta, a transgender
showgirl, who was the inspiration for the film Priscilla Queen of the Desert.
Tropicana Cafe, birthplace of the Tropfest Short Film Festival
Sydneys red light district
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U R B A N L E G E N D
In 1927 a pistol license law with heavy jail terms saw Darlinghurst gangs arm themselves with razors. Darlinghursts notorious razor gangs were fronted by heavyweight and brothel Madame, Matilda Tilly Devine and documented in the book Razor by Larry Writer.
Australian writer Henry Lawson penned the poem One Hundred and Three in a sandstone cellblock of Darlinghurst Gaol. The site where he was held for drunkenness and non-payment of alimony is now open to students and the public as the National Art School.
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S E E
The brass plates in Macleay Street sidewalks that tell stories of the areas electric past
T A S T E
Vietnamese rolls or gourmet burgers
S M E L L
The high turn over of coffee beans keeping the place awake
D o
Sample Sydneys young small bar scene
w A T C h
The Wayside Chapel come alive with community activists and eccentrics with curious pets
B U Y
A local revision of the cosmopolitan cocktail
A F T E R D A R K
Alive on Burton Street, Victoria Street, Liverpool Street, Bayswater Road and Oxford Street
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ELIZABETHBAY HOUSE
GREENKNOWE ST
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F I N G E RW H A R F
A RT G A L L E RYO F N S W
ROYA L B OTA N I C G A R D E N S
M c E L H O N ES TA I R S
A N D R EW B OYC H A R LTO N
P O O L
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A N D R EW B OYC H A R LTO N
P O O L
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Potts PointWoolloomooloo
L E G E N D
Cycleway
Parks
Water
Whats Hot
0 400m
5 mins walk
Potts Point and Woolloomooloo swoon you with their old and new architecture and melange of Italian delis, Japanese sake bars, New York-style cafes and wharf restaurants. This refined edit of notable food and drink sensations maintains a reputation as Sydneys cosmopolitan quarter for modern urbanites.
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young professionals, subtle vagrants and sophisticated baby boomers sit side by side
w o R D o N T h E S T R E E T
The tourists Wagyu and the wharf Pie and peas at Harrys Theres Russell.
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T Y P I C A L L o C A L
Young professionals, subtle vagrants and sophisticated baby boomers sit side by side at local bus stops. They operate in private circles, are polite and keep to themselves. Restaurateurs, playwrights, art directors and doctors muse over their strong views on wine while couples shop for their friends childrens toys.
D E F I N I N G E x P E R I E N C E
Coffee at the Parisian end of Macleay Street under oak trees and a wander down eclectic Challis Street.
K N o w N F o R
Sydneys piece of New York Cosmopolitan atmosphere The restaurants along the wharf Embarkation Park Harrys Caf de Wheels
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U R B A N L E G E N D
An elegant construction of the 1830s, Elizabeth Bay house complete with elegant oval saloon, sky-lit dome and curving staircase was used as a squat by artists, writers and poets between 1928 and 1935.
In a city where most lived in houses, in the early 1920s the residents of Potts Point lived in tiny flats or bed sits. The impetus for much of the precincts apartment building drew from the decline of the young male population in World War 1 and legacy of young women, who needed proximity to the city to work.
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S E E
Look up at the Art Deco buildings to find slices of Paris and New York
T A S T E
Raw Hiramasa kingfish carpaccio dishes at luxe alfresco dining spots
S M E L L
Egyptian dukkah on Hunter Valley Labna cheese
D o
The sharp incline of McElhone stairway that runs from Woolloomooloo to Victoria Street
w A T C h
The harbour between breaststrokes at Andrew Boy Charlton pool
B U Y
A designer toy for a friends baby
A F T E R D A R K
Hot on Macleay, Challis Avenue and Finger Wharf
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BLACKWATTLECAF
BROADWAYCINEMAS
GLEBE LIBRARY
WENTWORTHPARK
GLEBE PO
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BA
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TH
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MINOGUE CRES
J U B I L E EPA R K
G L E B EM A R K E TS
G L E B ETOW N H A L L
S Y D N EY F I S HM A R K E T
JUBILEEPARK
GLEBE
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L E G E N D
Foreshore Walk
Light Rail
Whats Hot
Parks
Free Wi-fi
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BLACKWATTLECAF
BROADWAYCINEMAS
GLEBE LIBRARY
WENTWORTHPARK
GLEBE PO
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ST JO
HNS R
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ST JO
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GLEBE PO
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WIG
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BRID
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FOLE
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BRID
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WAT
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BA
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TH
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MINOGUE CRES
J U B I L E EPA R K
G L E B EM A R K E TS
G L E B ETOW N H A L L
S Y D N EY F I S HM A R K E T
JUBILEEPARK
GLEBE
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Glebe
Glebe is a feast of fresh air in verdant parklands, expansive water vistas, and eclectic shopping. The vitality and openness of its student population support the seemingly endless gathering of second hand bookshops, new age outlets, ethnic eateries, recycled fashion boutiques and Saturday markets on Glebe Point Road.
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locals sleep well with the karmic assurance that they cleaned up after their healthy dogw o R D o N T h E S T R E E T
Free WiFi at Foley Park wireless house Budget meals and beds Dinner, movie and gelato?
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T Y P I C A L L o C A L
Regardless of their profession as heritage architects, academics, baristas or nurses, Glebe dwellers love to walk. They are fun drinkers and talkers who sleep well with the karmic assurance that they cleaned up after their healthy dog that morning.
D E F I N I N G E x P E R I E N C E
Picking up some literature from one of the many bookstores and reading the afternoon away at a cafe.
K N o w N F o R
Value for money meals Glebe Markets Saturday Abundance of bookshops Victorian architecture Glebe Foreshore Walk Glebe Street FairNovember Chatty cafes & lively pubs Alternative health
and well being
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U R B A N L E G E N D
The Sydney United Friendly Society Dispensary opened in January 1909. The health professionals of this voluntary initiative dispensed ointments, gargles, leeches, camel hair, poppy heads and chamomile flowers in the bottles and jars of patients. Two tables commemorate this precursor of modern health funds at 33 Glebe Point Road.
Glebe Point Roads tram system was active until the 1950s and originally the main transport line to connect an abattoir with the city.
Going to the pictures had an added dimension at The Glebe Moving Picture Show in 1910. Proprietor and Methodist, John Jack Law staged boxing exhibitions and vaudeville acts by Reckless Reggie before films at the 84 Glebe Point Road site. You can still catch a movie at Broadway.
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S E E
The elaborate facades and tessellated tile paths of matchbox terraces and stone gatehouses on Glebes architecture walk
T A S T E
The cuisine of three different continents in a single day
S M E L L
Spring and Autumn engulf the lush landscape
D o
Spot the original Glebe caf that boasts 28 years of bad manors (sic)
w A T C h
Bottle brush sway in waterside breeze from one of Jubilee Parks picnic sheds
B U Y
A recommended Australian non-fiction release from an independent bookseller
A F T E R D A R K
Recline with wine in nooks on Glebe Point Road
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RE
GE
NT
ST
GIB
BO
NS
ST
BO
TA
NY
RD
BO
UR
KE
ST
PHILLIP ST
DANKS ST
YO
UN
G S
T
LACHLAN ST
ODEA AV
SOU
TH
DO
WL
ING
ST
EL
IZA
BE
TH
ST
CH
AL
ME
RS
ST
BA
PT
IST
ST
CLEVELAND ST
CLEVELAND ST
REDFERN ST
RAGLAN STG
EO
RG
E S
TG
EO
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T
GE
OR
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ST
ABERCR
OMBIE
ST
WILSON
ST
CITY
RD
PIT
T S
T
McEVOY
ST
McEVOY ST
redfernstation
C A R R I AG EWO R K S& EV E L E I G H
M A R K E TS
AU S T R A L I A NT E C H N O LO G Y PA R K
P Y DBU I L D I N G
R E D F E R NPA R K
NAT I O NA L C E N T R EF O R I N D I G E N O U S
E XC E L L E N C EWAT E R LO OL I B R A RY
40
n
L E G E N D
Cycleway
Parks
Whats Hot
Train Station
Free Wi-fi
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ST
GIB
BO
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ST
BO
TA
NY
RD
BO
UR
KE
ST
PHILLIP ST
DANKS ST
YO
UN
G S
T
LACHLAN ST
ODEA AV
SOU
TH
DO
WL
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ST
EL
IZA
BE
TH
ST
CH
AL
ME
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ST
BA
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CLEVELAND ST
CLEVELAND ST
REDFERN ST
RAGLAN ST
GE
OR
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GE
OR
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GE
OR
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ABERCR
OMBIE
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WILSON
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CITY
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redfernstation
C A R R I AG EWO R K S& EV E L E I G H
M A R K E TS
AU S T R A L I A NT E C H N O LO G Y PA R K
P Y DBU I L D I N G
R E D F E R NPA R K
NAT I O NA L C E N T R EF O R I N D I G E N O U S
E XC E L L E N C EWAT E R LO OL I B R A RY
41
redfernWaterloo
0 400m
5 mins walk
Redfern and Waterloo combine their Aboriginal roots and working class history with modern tribalism. The unvarnished, industrial atmosphere of these neighbouring pockets has lured contemporary art circles, vintage/retro furniture restorers and slow food aficionados. The nostalgic flavour of this village is deep with respect for what has gone before.
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active lovers of change and reflect australias multi-ethnic populationw o R D o N T h E S T R E E T
The Block What produce is in season Redfern falls asleep early
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T Y P I C A L L o C A L
Redfern and Waterloo people are active lovers of change and reflect Australias multi-ethnic population. They operate with a DIY mentality and loyalty to the local economy, the original landowners the Cadigal people and you, if your ear is open.
D E F I N I N G E x P E R I E N C E
Dealing direct with the farmer on a Saturday morning market spree before roaming the galleries with a Dandelion tea.
K N o w N F o R
Danks Street Local football team
The Rabbitohs Eveleigh Farmers Market Redfern Community
Markets in Redfern Park Contemporary, retro and
vintage furniture
Credit for mural: Pemulwuy Park Mural, James Simon and Danny Eastwood, 1995
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U R B A N L E G E N D
The Redfern Municipal Electric Light Station built in 1891 was Sydneys first supplier of electricity. In an era of dull gas street lamps, Redfern boasted electric versions and was literally the brightest place in Sydney. This power site was adaptively reused as the Rolling Stone Magazine headquarters and now houses antique dealer Martyn Cook.
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S E E
Handmade crafts from local makers at the Eveleigh Artisans Market at Carriageworks first Sunday of every month
T A S T E
Bacon and egg rolls and purple carrots fresh from the farm at weekend farmers markets
S M E L L
Change in the air
D o
Scamper between contemporary art exhibitions on George, Regent and Danks Streets
w A T C h
The Rabbitohs train in Redfern Park oval
B U Y
An iconic retro piece of furniture from the line up on Regent Street and Redfern Street
A F T E R D A R K
Find the hidden eateries scattered throughout
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S Y D N EYT H E AT R E
S Y D N EY DA N C E C O. & BA N G A R R A
DA N C E T H E AT R E
hick
son
rd
brad
fiel
d h
ighw
ay
argyle st
windmill st
towns pl
h
ickson rd
dalgety rd
46
0 400m
5 mins walk
nTo The rocks
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S Y D N EYT H E AT R E
S Y D N EY DA N C E C O. & BA N G A R R A
DA N C E T H E AT R E
hick
son
rd
brad
fiel
d h
ighw
ay
argyle st
windmill st
towns pl
h
ickson rd
dalgety rd
47
Walsh BayMillers Point
Just past the great grey bridge, the heritage piers and charming backstreets of Walsh Bay resound with a world-class cultural rhythm. This art precinct of open-air sculpture galleries, modern theatre productions and dance initiatives is the heart of Sydneys performing arts scene.
L E G E N D
Sculpture Walk
Parks
Whats Hot
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Eco-enthusiasts... Greening the Wharfw o R D o N T h E S T R E E T
Where to have post theatre drinks Bump into Cate Catching a daytime matinee Solar panels on the wharf
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T Y P I C A L L o C A L
The locals of Walsh Bay are eco-enthusiasts who practice what they preach by Greening the Wharf. Advertising, media and arts businesses are attracted to the villages creative edge.
D E F I N I N G E x P E R I E N C E
Walking the wharves with eyes wide open.
K N o w N F o R
Sydney Writers FestivalMay Sydney Theatre Company Sydney Dance Company Bangarra Dance Theatre Harbourside dining Sandstone, cobblestone
& wharves Sculpture walk Biennale
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U R B A N L E G E N D
The two storey Federation Free Style wharves and their associated shore sheds were built to modernise and manage Sydneys waterfront after the outbreak of the Bubonic Plague in January 1900: the foreshore was awash with rubbish and rats. After a dormant period from the 60s to the 80s, the wharves were renovated to house star associations like Sydney Theatre Company and Bangarra Dance TheatreAustralias only national Aboriginal performing arts company.
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S E E
Local sandstone in watering holes like Hero of Waterloo, a gathering spot for the 1840s Garrison Troops of colonial days
T A S T E
A gourmet sandwich on a striped deck chair overlooking the harbour
S M E L L
The harbour breeze
D o
Find Brett Whiteleys towering Black Totem II and Jimmie Durhams head-turning Still Life With Stone and Car on the sculpture walk
w A T C h
The boats draw patterns in the harbour from a pier restaurant
B U Y
Tapas and watch the sun sink
A F T E R D A R K
Wonder at the flexibility of contemporary dancers
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st
fig
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harris
st
wattle
st
wil
liam
hen
ry s
t
harris
st
pyrmon
t st
harbourside
pyrmontbay
wentworthpark
sydney fish market
john stsquare
starcity
australian nationalmaritime museum
darling harbour
sydneyheritage
fleet
alle
n s
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mil
ler
stu
nio
n s
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point st
wes
tern
dis
trib
utor
fre
eway
bank s
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urray st
pirra
ma
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pyrm
ont b
ridg
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pyrmont bridge rd
jon
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bay
rd
convention
pyrm
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t br
idg
e P OW E R H O U S EM U S E U M
S TA R C I T YC A S I N OJONES BAY W
HARF
PI R R A M APA R K
S Y D N EY F I S HM A R K E T
I A N T H O R PE AQ UAT I CC E N T R E
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pyrmon
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harbourside
pyrmontbay
wentworthpark
sydney fish market
john stsquare
starcity
australian nationalmaritime museum
darling harbour
sydneyheritage
fleet
alle
n s
t
mil
ler
stu
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point st
wes
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dis
trib
utor
fre
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bank s
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m
urray st
pirra
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pyrm
ont b
ridg
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pyrmont bridge rd
jon
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bay
rd
convention
pyrm
on
t br
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e P OW E R H O U S EM U S E U M
S TA R C I T YC A S I N OJONES BAY W
HARF
PI R R A M APA R K
S Y D N EY F I S HM A R K E T
I A N T H O R PE AQ UAT I CC E N T R E
53
PyrmontUltimo
L E G E N D
Monorail
Light Rail
Cycleway
Parks
Whats Hot
Pyrmonts industrial history unravels as you survey the panorama of wharves, woolstores, factories and golden sandstone under foot. This peninsular of casinos, fish markets, museums and IMAx movie theatres overlooks the ultramarine harbour and is home to a smooth dress up dining scene.
0 400m
5 mins walk
To UTS & TafE
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UL
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locals live simple high lives in flats, units or apartments, and journey to full time jobs...by foot, bus or boatw o R D o N T h E S T R E E T
Times are changing Award-winning Pirrama Park Out for breakfast lunch and dinner
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T Y P I C A L L o C A L
Locals live simple high lives in flats, units or apartments, and journey to full time jobs as managers, administrators and professionals by foot, bus or boat. In their late twenties to early fifties, the majority understand the need to rebalance the relationship of man and machine in a new age of diminishing resources.
D E F I N I N G E x P E R I E N C E
An extended brunch and string of coffees at a creative outdoor eatery on Jones Bay Wharf.
K N o w N F o R
Pyrmont Festival May Growers Market at Pyrmont
Bay ParkSaturdays Australian National
Maritime Museum Sydney Fish Market Star City Casino Lyric Theatre
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U R B A N L E G E N D
Pyrmont was purchased by John Macarthur for a gallon of rum.
Pyrmonts yellowblock sandstone lies under foot and was used in building iconic Sydney buildings such as Sydney Town Hall on George Street and The Art Gallery of NSW. The quarries from which they were extracted were known locally as Paradise, Purgatory and Hellhole, in recognition of the difficulty of working the stone.
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w A T C h
Dog/owner lookalikes.
B U Y
Ironic knitted sweaters from second hand shops.
A F T E R D A R K
Buzzing on Crown Street, Bourke near Oxford and Cleveland between Elizabeth & Crown.
S E E
A science or design exhibition at The Powerhouse Museum
T A S T E
Oysters and champagne at the Sydney Fish Market
S M E L L
The yellowblock sandstone under foot at Union Square
D o
Roll the dice at Star City
w A T C h
The uproar of wholesale fish auctions at 7am, a cool spectator sport
B U Y
An oriental rug
A F T E R D A R K
A musical at the Lyric Theatre
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centralstation
rail
way
acce
ss eliz
abet
h s
t
eliz
abet
h s
t
went
wort
h av
pitt
st
campbell st
eddy av
ultimo
rd
quay st
quay st
darling drive
har
bou
r st
har
bou
r st
hay st
hay st
dix
on
st
geor
ge s
t
geo
rge
st
liverpool st
cast
lere
agh
st
suss
ex s
t
goulburn st
pitt
st
tho
mas
st
pier s
t
C H I N E S EG A R D E N
C A PI TO LT H E AT R E
M A R K E T C I T Y A N DPA D DY S M A R K E TS
H AY M A R K E T L I B R A RY
H AY M A R K E T
C H I NATOW N
WO R L DS Q UA R E
PA D DY SM A R K E T
capitolsquare
E N T E RTA I N M E N TC E N T R E
G O L D E NT R E E
B E L M O R E PA R K
n
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centralstation
rail
way
acce
ss eliz
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h s
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eliz
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went
wort
h av
pitt
st
campbell st
eddy av
ultimo
rd
quay st
quay st
darling drive
har
bou
r st
har
bou
r st
hay st
hay st
dix
on
st
geor
ge s
t
geo
rge
st
liverpool st
cast
lere
agh
st
suss
ex s
t
goulburn st
pitt
st
tho
mas
st
pier s
t
C H I N E S EG A R D E N
C A PI TO LT H E AT R E
M A R K E T C I T Y A N DPA D DY S M A R K E TS
H AY M A R K E T L I B R A RY
H AY M A R K E T
C H I NATOW N
WO R L DS Q UA R E
PA D DY SM A R K E T
capitolsquare
E N T E RTA I N M E N TC E N T R E
G O L D E NT R E E
B E L M O R E PA R K
59
ChinatownHaymarket
Everyday in Chinatown is a multi-Asian taste carnival. Opium dens and gambling lairs precede the modern microcosm of tea merchants, dumpling houses, neon food courts and Oriental food galleries. Follow your nose through this inner city labyrinth for exciting new tastes.
L E G E N D
Pedestrian Street
Parks
Whats Hot 0 400m
5 mins walk
Monorail
Train Station
Light Rail
Free Wi-fi
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hA
YM
AR
KE
T &
Ch
INA
To
wN
60
Blending tradition with modern techniquesw o R D o N T h E S T R E E T
International news The exchange rate Irrashaimase (typical greeting at
traditional Japanese restaurants that means welcome)
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Ch
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To
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T Y P I C A L L o C A L
Haymarket and Chinatown residents are resettled expatriates, international students and cosmopolitan business people who seek the buzz of Sydneys inner ring. They believe in blending tradition with modern techniques and the custom of coming together for meal time.
D E F I N I N G E x P E R I E N C E
A Sunday morning spent selecting individual morsels from Yum Cha bamboo baskets on Dixon Street.
K N o w N F o R
Markets Entertainment Centre Capitol Theatre Open late High intensity social scene The Metro Light Rail network Asian Australian
installation artwork
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Ch
INA
To
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62
U R B A N L E G E N D
Above the hustle and bustle of todays Dixon Street lie the remnants of a mysterious and sometimes dark past of long-gone opium dens and gambling halls.
Yum cha is a Cantonese term, which literally means, drink tea and is closely associated with dim sum, a wide range of small dishes. The link has roots on the ancient Silk Road where teahouses were established to rest travellers. After tea was found to be a digestion aid, snacks were added to the menu. Originating with the Cantonese in southern China, the culinary art and respite of yum cha has transformed into a loud and colourful dining experience.
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63
S E E
Wicker steamers full of plump dumplings
T A S T E
Roast Peking duck with plum sauce
S M E L L
Multiple cuisines at once
D o
Wander the rainbow isles of Paddys Markets, a trinket and fresh produce emporium
w A T C h
Avid fans line up outside a hole-in-the-wall dealer of miniature custard puffs baked fresh 12pm to 9pm on Dixon Street
B U Y
A rare natural curative from a wall of Chinese herbs
A F T E R D A R K
Squeeze your way through the Friday night market on Dixon Street mall
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64
Information about events, entertainment, shopping, eating & local highlightswhatson.cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au
urbanwalkabout.com
concreteplayground.com.au
timeoutsydney.com.au
twothousand.com.au
smh.com.au
abc.net.au/sydney
fbiradio.com
2ser.com
dailytelegraph.com.au
cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au/aboutsydney
sydney.com
eventssydney.com
cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au/barani
love2010.com.au
thesydneyfringe.com.au
pucc.com.au
haymarketchamber.org.au
chinatown.com.au
kingscrossonline.com.au
newtownprecinct.com.au
paddingtonsydney.com.au
walshbaysydney.com.au
facebook.com/redfernwaterloo
glebe.com.au
ssbchamber.com.au
sydneycycleways.net
Useful resources
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Published and produced by Urban Walkabout on behalf of City of Sydney Design and illustration by Boccalatte
Copyright 2011 City of SydneyEditorial Enquiries: City of Sydney MarketingT: 9265 9333Email: [email protected]
Photography by Helen White
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SliceS of
Sydney
BuzzinglocalprideWidevarietyoffoodoptionsDistinctsubculturesUnpretentiousBroadculturalappealPop-upNewtownMarketsNewtownFestivalNovember
TheSydneyFringeFestivalSeptember
newtown
ArtanddesigntalentRagtraderootsSurryHillsMarketsfirstSaturdayofeverymonth
BeergardensCheapsteaknightsNichecuisinesandfusionsCommunityveggiegardensDogfriendlyatmosphere
Surry Hills
PaddingtonMarketsSaturdays
BoutiqueshoppingLaunchpadforemergingfashiontalent
ArtgalleriesTheRoyalHotel,theoldestinthevillage
OneoftheearliestsettledareasofSydney
Paddington
SydneyspieceofNewYorkCosmopolitanatmosphereTherestaurantsalongthewharfEmbarkationParkHarrysCafdeWheels
Potts Point Woolloomooloo
ValueformoneymealsGlebeMarketsSaturdayAbundanceofbookshopsVictorianarchitectureGlebeForeshoreWalkGlebeStreetFairNovemberChattycafes&livelypubsAlternativehealthandwellbeing
Glebe
DanksStreetLocalfootballteamTheRabbitohs
EveleighFarmersMarketRedfernCommunityMarketsinRedfernPark
Contemporary,retroandvintagefurniture
RedfernWaterloo
SydneyWritersFestivalMaySydneyTheatreCompanySydneyDanceCompanyBangarraDanceTheatreHarboursidediningSandstone,cobblestone&wharves
SculpturewalkBiennale
Walsh BayMillers Point
PyrmontFestivalMayGrowersMarketatPyrmontBayParkSaturdays
AustralianNationalMaritimeMuseum
SydneyFishMarketStarCityCasinoLyricTheatre
PyrmontUltimo
MarketsEntertainmentCentreCapitolTheatreOpenlateHighintensitysocialsceneTheMetroLightRailnetworkAsianAustralianinstallationartwork
chinatownHaymarket
MardiGrasMarchKingsCrossOrganicMarketsSaturdaysSydneySustainableMarkets,TaylorSquareSaturdaysCarlotta,atransgendershowgirl,whowastheinspirationforthefilmPriscillaQueenoftheDesert.
TropicanaCafe,birthplaceoftheTropfestShortFilmFestivalSydneysredlightdistrict
darlinghurst Kings cross
A TASTe of oUR VillAGeS
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add hyde park streetrailway tracks name parks
Walsh BayMillers Point
hickso
n rd
brad
fiel
d h
igh
way
argyle st
windmill st
towns pl
hicks
on rd
dalgety rd
Newtown
RedfernWaterloo
Paddington
Potts PointWoolloomooloo
SurryHills
PyrmontUltimo
Kings CrossDarlinghurst
HaymarketChinatown
Glebe
CityCentre
SydneyOpera House
The Rocks
DarlingHarbour
SydneyUniversity
gold
en g
rove st
king
st
missen
den
rd
burren
st
wilson
st
australia st
enmore
rdalbe
rt st
carillon av
erskineville rd
king st
regent st
gibbon
s st
botan
y rd
bou
rke st
phillip st
danks st
you
ng
st
lachlan st
odea av
sou
th d
ow
ling
st
sou
th d
ow
ling
st
eliz
abe
th s
t
cha
lmers st
baptist st
cleveland st
cleveland st
redfern st
raglan st
abercro
mbie st
wilson
st
city
rd
city
rd
pitt st
mcevoy
st
mcevoy st
elizabeth
stchalm
ers st
foveaux st
bou
rke st
devonshire st
crow
n st
crow
n st
campbell st
oxford st
flind
ers st
golbourn st
com
mo
nw
ealth
st
ma
ry st
albion st
glen
more r
d
casc
ad
e st
eliz
abet
h st
oxford st
bounda
ry st
oxford stmoore park rd
moore park rd
barcom st
glen
mor
e rd
victo
ria st
macl
achl
an av
darlingh
urst rd
burton st
stanley st
crow
n st
colleg
e st
william st
craigend st
eliz
abet
h ba
y rd
ke
ll
et st
mac
leay
st
vic
tori
a stb
ou
rke
st
royal botanical gardens
hydepark
jubileepark
wentworthpark
moorepark
redfernpark
princealfred park
bou
rke
st
cro
wn
st
rile
y st
east
ern
dis
trib
uto
r
sir jo
hn y
oun
g cr
es
elizabeth
st
campbell st
eddy av
ultimo
rd
quay st
darlin
g drive
ha
rbou
r st
dixo
n st g
eorg
e st
regent st
liverpool st
castlerea
gh
st
sussex st
hay st hay st
goulburn st
pitt
st
tho
mas
st
pier st
pirrama rd
harris st
fig st
harris st
harris st
wattle st
wattle st
willia
m henr
y st
harris st
pyrmont st
allen st
miller
stunion st
point st
western distributor freeway
bank st
murray st
pi
rrama rd
pyrm
ont
brid
ge rd
pyrmo
nt brid
ge rd
jone
s bay
rd
glebe point rd
st jo
hns r
d
st jo
hns r
d
glebe point rd
wigr
am rd
parramatta rd
ross st
brid
ge rd
brid
ge rd
brid
ge rd
bay st
the crescent
minogue cres
darl
ingh
urst
rd
bayswater rd
kings cross rd
cow
per
wh
arf
road
way
went
wort
h av
greenknowe st
george
st
campbell st
S u r r y H i l l S ( p a g e 4 )
1kmsouth-eastoftheCityCentreWalkingtime~40mins
p a d d i n g t o n ( p a g e 1 0 )
3kmeastoftheCityCentreWalkingtime~40mins
n e w t o w n ( p a g e 1 6 )
4kmsouth-westoftheCityCentreWalkingtime~40mins
d a r l i n g H u r S t / K i n g S C r o S S( p a g e 2 2 )
12kmeastoftheCityCentreWalkingtime~2530mins
p o t t S p o i n t / w o o l l o o m o o l o o ( p a g e 2 8 )
1.5km3kmeastoftheCityCentreWalkingtime~2025mins
g l e b e ( p a g e 3 4 )
3kmwestoftheCityCentreWalkingtime~40mins
r e d f e r n / w a t e r l o o ( p a g e 4 0 )
34kmsouthoftheCityCentreWalkingtime~40mins
w a l S H b a y / m i l l e r S p o i n t ( p a g e 4 6 )
1kmnorth-westoftheCityCentreWalkingtime~20mins
p y r m o n t / u l t i m o ( p a g e 5 2 )
2kmwestoftheCityCentreWalkingtime~20mins
H a y m a r K e t / C H i n a t o w n ( p a g e 5 8 )
1.5kmsouthoftheCityCentreWalkingtime~20mins
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