Vol. 123, No. 1/January 2008 www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Cosmetics & Toiletries® magazine | 87

Skin CARE FORMULARY

Skin Care Formulary ContentsCreams 87Lotions 89 Cleansers 90 Miscellaneous 90Supplier Listing 92

This information is presented in good faith, and believed to be correct, but no warranty as to accuracy of results or fitness for a particular use is given, nor is freedom from patent infringement to be inferred. It is offered solely for your consideration, investigation and verification.

CREAMSDeep Moisturizing Creme

(Colonial Chemical Inc.)

This cream is a light, elegant formulation that offers long-lasting skin conditioning benefits.

A. Potassium cetyl phosphate (Cola Fax CPE-K, Colonial) 1.20% Stearamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate (Cola Lipid ST, Colonial) 2.50 Titanium dioxide 0.50 Water (aqua) 85.30B. Cetyl alcohol 2.00 Myristyl myristate 3.00 Isopropyl palmitate 4.00 Dimethicone, 100 cS 1.00 Lanolin alcohol 0.50C. Pigment qs Fragrance (parfum) qs Preservative qs

Procedure: Heat A with agitation to 60°C. Separately heat B to 60°C. Homogenize B into A for a sufficient time to ensure good emulsification. Stir and cool to 45°C. Add C to batch.

Spa Moisturizing Cream(Presperse)

A. Water (aqua) 59.70% Glycerin 3.00 Phenoxyethanol (and) caprylyl glycol (and) ethylhexylglycerin (and)

hexylene glycol (Botanistat PF-64, Botanigenics) 1.00 Disodium EDTA (Dissolvent NA2S, Akzo Nobel) 0.10 Carbomer, 2% solution (Carbopol 2001, Noveon) 15.00B. C18–-21 alkane (and) polyisobutene (Permethyl 246C, Presperse) 8.00 Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 (Lipomulse 165, Lipo Chemical) 3.25 Cetearyl alcohol (Lanette O, Lipo Chemical) 0.75 Ceteth-20 (Lipocol C-20, Lipo Chemical) 0.40 Stearic acid 1.50 Butyrosperum parkii (Shea Butter, Protameen) 1.00 Cyclopentasiloxane (DC 245 Fluid, Dow Corning) 3.00C. Sodium hydroxide, 18%% solution (Sodium Hydroxide, Amresco) 0.30D. Peat extract (Fytobel White Peat, Presperse) 0.50 Water (aqua) Chondrus crispus (carrageenan) extract

(Oligogeline, Presperse) 2.00 Water (aqua) (and) butylene glycol (and) fructan (Fructan, Presperse) 0.50 100.00

Procedure: Combine A in a main kettle and heat to 78–-80°C. Separately combine B and heat to 80°C. Add B to A at 80°C with shear mixing and homogenize for 5–-8 min or until batch is uniform. Cool batch with prop mixing to 65–-70°C. Add C to batch with slow prop mixing and increase speed as the batch starts to build viscosity. Cool batch to 35°C. At 35°C, add D to batch and prop mix for 5–-8 min or until batch is uniform. Cool batch to 25°C.

Soft Cream(Dow Corning)

This antiaging cream offers sebum absorption and leaves a soft feel on the skin.

A. Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) alumina (DC EP-9293 AL Cosmetic Powder, Dow Corning) 2.00%

Cyclopentasiloxane (DC 245 Fluid, Dow Corning) 4.00B. Sodium polyacrylate (and) dimethicone (and) cyclopentasiloxane

(and) trideceth-6 (and) PEG-PPG-18/18 dimethicone (DC RM 2051 Thickening Agent, Dow Corning) 4.00

Cyclopentasiloxane (and) dimethicone crosspolymer (DC 9045 Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dow Corning) 5.00

Caprylic/capric triglyceride (Myritol 312, Cognis) 3.00C. Divinyldimethicone/dimethicone copolymer (and) C12–13 pareth-3

(and) C12–13 pareth-23 (DC HMW 2220 Nonionic Emulsion, Dow Corning) 3.00

Panthenol (D-Panthenol USP, BASF) 0.50 Water (aqua) 75.40 DMDM hydantoin (Glydant, Lonza) 0.10 Ginkgo biloba leaf extract (Extrapone Ginkgo Biloba, Symrise) 3.00 100.00

Procedure: Combine A. In a separate container, combine B. Add B to A with mixing. Separately combine C and add to AB with high-shear mixing.

Anti-wrinkle Cream(Silab)

A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00%B. Sorbitan stearate (Montane 60, Seppic) 3.00 Polysorbate 60 (Montanox 60 DF, Seppic) 2.00 Cetearyl ethylhexanoate (Lanol 1688, Seppic) 10.00 Isononyl isononanoate (Lanol 99, Seppic) 5.00C. Polyacrylamide (and) C 13-14 isoparaffin (and) laureth-7 (Sepigel 305, Seppic) 1.50D. Phenoxyethanol (and) methylparaben (and) ethylparaben (and)

butylparaben (and) propylparaben (and) isobutylparaben (Phenonip, Clariant) 0.70

E. Water (aqua) (and) Secale cereale (rye) seed extract (Coheliss, Silab) 4.00

Procedure: Separately heat A and B to 80°C. Add B to A with mixing. Cool to 30°C and add C in order, D and E. Continue homogenizing until the cream becomes uniform.

Whipped Cream Moisturizer(Arch Personal Care)

This whipped skin moisturizer features instantly hydrates skin and regulates moisture long-term by channeling it to the areas where it i’s most neededneeded most.

A. Water (aqua) qs Water (aqua) (and) trimethylolproane tricaprylate/tricaprate (and)

glycerin (and) cetearyl alcohol (and) ceteareth 20 (and) glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate (and) steareth-2 (and) dimethicone (and) ceteth-24 (and) choleth-24 (and) phospholipid (and) propylene glycol (and) methylparaben (and) propylparaben (and) diazolidinyl urea (and) disodium EDTA (SMEC Concentrate #1, Arch Personal Care) 50.00%

B. Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789, Roche) 2.50 Homosalate (Neo Heliopan HMS, Symrise) 5.50

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Ethylhexyl salicylate (Dermoblock OS, Alzo) 4.00C. Sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate (and) copolymer

(and) hydrogenated polydecene (and) sorbitan laurate (and) trideceth-6 (ViscUp EZ, Arch Person Care) 2.50

D. Water (aqua) (and) urea (and) yeast amino acids (and) trehalose (and) inositol (and) taurine (and) betaine (DermaFlux, Arch Personal Care) 1.00

Phenoxyethanol (and) caprylyl glycol (and) chlorphenesin (Mikrokill COS, Arch Personal Care) 0.75

Mica (and) titanium dioxide (and) iron oxide (Timica Brilliant Gold 212G+, BASF) 0.50

Procedure: Combine A. Mix until uniform. Pre-mix B and add to A while mixing. Slowly add C to batch with rapid mixing. Add D to the batch in order, mixing well between each addition.

Microdermabrasion Cream(Lubrizol/Noveon)

This microdermabrasion cream is designed to finely polish skin using a slip that facilitates the application process. Grape seed and chamomile extracts are incor-porated for their antioxidant and anti-irritancy properties.

A. Water (aqua) 58.95%B. Carbomer (Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer, Lubrizol/Noveon) 0.30C. Disodium EDTA (Protachem NA2-P, Protameen) 0.05 Methyl gluceth-10 (Glucam E-10 Humectant, Lubrizol/Noveon) 3.00D. Neopentyl glycol diethylhexanoate (Schercemol NGDO Ester,

Lubrizol/Noveon) 10.00 Cetearyl alcohol (and) ceteareth-20 (Promulgen D Emulsifier,

Lubrizol/Noveon) 4.00 Isostearyl hydroxystearate (Schercemol SHS Ester, (Lubrizol/Noveon) 1.00 Dimethicone, 50 cst (SF96-50, Momentive/GE) 1.00 Tocopheryl acetate (Vitamin E Acetate, Protameen Chemicals) 1.000.25 Stearic acid (Stearic Acid PC, Protameen) 2.00 Stearyl alcohol (Stearyl Alcohol PC, Protameen) 0.50E. Sodium hydroxide, 18% solution 0.50F. Alumina (Catalox SCCA 5/150 Alumina Powder, Sasol) 15.00G. Vitis vinifers (grape) seed extract (and) PEG-10 olive glycerides

(and) propylene glycol (Herbasol Grape Seed Extract PG,Chamomile (Matricaria) Extract PG, Cosmetochem) 1.00

Chamomilla recutita (matricaria) flower extract (and) propylene glycol (Herbasol Chamomile (Matricaria) Extract PG, Cosmetochem) 1.00

Phenoxyethanol (and) methylparaben (and) ethylparaben (and) butylparaben (and) propylparaben (and) isobutylparaben (Phenonip, Clariant) 0.70

100.00

Procedure: Sprinkle B on the surface of A (not agitating) and allow to wet. Allow polymer to wet. Begin gentle agitation. Add C to AB and mix until uniform. Heat to 60°C. In a separate vessel, combine D with mixing and heat to 60–-65°C. Once temperatures are achieved and mixtures homogenous, add D to batch with a mixing speed of approximately 500–-600 rpm. When mixture is uniform, remove heat. Add E to main batch to neutralize. Mix until uniform. Add F to batch while increasing mixing speed to approx.imately 800 rpm to maintain a uniform mixture. Allow batch to cool to 35–-40°C. Add G individually with good mood mixing in between additions. Mix until uniform. Adjust for evaporation with H if necessary.

Light Cold-processed Emulsion(Sasol Olefins & Surfactants)

A. Caprylic/capric triglyceride (and) stearalkonium bentonite (and) propylene carbonate (Miglyol Gel T, Sasol) 7.00%

Caprylic/capric triglyceride (Miglyol 812, Sasol) 10.00 Caprylic/capric/linoleic triglyceride (Miglyol 818, Sasol) 7.00 Caprylic/capric/succinic triglyceride (Miglyol 829, Sasol) 3.00 Polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate (Imwitor 600, Sasol) 3.00 Isostearyl diglyceryl succinate (Imwitor 780 K, Sasol) 1.00 Olea europaea (olive) oil 5.00 Antioxidant qsB. Glycerin 2.00 Magnesium sulfate x 7 H2O 1.20 Preservative qs Water (aqua) qs to 100.00C. Fragrance (parfum) qs

Procedure: Mix A and B separately. Homogenize A. Mix B. Stir B slowly into A and homogenize until an even particle size distribution is achieved. Add C to batch. NoteOTE: Homogenization with IKA Ultra-Turrax T-25 max. 13000 rpm.

Body Butter Creme(BioChemica International)

A. Water (aqua) 50.70% Glycerin 2.00B. Theobroma grandiflorum seed butter (Cupuaçu Butter, BioChemica) 10.00 Cetearyl alcohol (and) polysorbate 60 (and) dicetyl phosphate

(and) ceteth-20 phosphate (Crodofos CS-20 Acid, Croda) 8.00 Shorea robusta seed butter (Sal Butter, BioChemica) 7.50 Garcinia india seed butter (Kokum Butter, BioChemica) 5.00 PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate (Crodamol STS, Croda) 5.00 Cyclomethicone 4.00 Stearyl alcohol NF 2.50 Emulsifying wax 2.00C. Fragrance (parfum) (Aloe and Cucumber G5520, Carrubba) 2.50 2-Phenoxyethanol (and) 1,2-octanediol (and) hexylene glycol

(Diocide, DIOW) 0.80 100.00Procedure: Heat A to 80°C for 20 min under prop agitation. Separately heat B to

80°C or until completely melted. Add A to B and mix under prop agitation. Emulsify with homogenizer at moderate speed while using a medium yield mesh screen. Begin to cool down to 30°C after smooth glassy liquid is obtained. Switch from homogenizer to a paddle or sideswipe at 55°C. Add C to batch between 40–-50°C. Cool to RT under constant side wipe.

Vanishing Cream(Ajinomoto Co., Inc.)

This acidic formulation leaves a non-greasy feeling. It is acidic. The viscosity of this formulation is maintained at a wide range of temperatures.

A. Dibutyl lauroyl glutamide (Gelatinization Agent GP-1, Ajinomoto) 2.00% Cetyl alcohol (Cetanol SP-D50, Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo) 3.00 Isostearyl alcohol (Isostearyl Alcohol EX, Kokyu Alkohol Kogyo) 7.00 Stearic acid 4.00B. Polysorbate 60 (Rheodol TW-S120V, Kao) 2.00 Sorbeth-30 tTetraoleate (Nikkol GO-430NV, Nikko Chemicals) 0.50 Glyceryl stearate SE (Nikkol MGS-DEXV, Nikko Chemicals) 0.50 Cetyl palmitate (Nikkol N-SPV, Nikko Chemicals) 3.00 Paraffin (Paraffin Wax 125, Nippon Seiro) 3.00 Preservative qsC. Butylene glycol 7.00 Preservative qsD. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00

Procedure: Separately combine A and B at 90°C with stirring. Add A to B at 90°C and mix with stirring. Separately combine C and D at 90°C with stirring. Add AB to CD at 90°C and mix until homogeneous at 3000 rpm for 3 min. Cool to RT with stirring.

Antiage Challenge(Seppic)

This unique formula has complete and curative efficacy with its ten containing 10ten active ingredients to defy time.

A. Arachidyl alcohol (and) behenyl alcohol (and) arachidyl glucoside (Montanov 202, Seppic) 2.00%

Cetearyl alcohol (and) coco-glucoside (Montanov 82, Seppic) 2.00 Cetearyl alcohol 1.00 Dimethicone (DC 200/350, Dow Corning) 2.00 Squalane (Phytosqualan, Sophim) 10.00 Isostearyl isostearate 10.00 Phenoxyethanol (and) methylparaben (and) ethylparaben (and)

propylparaben (and) butylparaben (Sepicide HB, Seppic) 1.00B. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00 Tromethamine 0.70 Undecylenoyl phenylalanine (Sepiwhite MSH, Seppic) 1.00 Crosslinked polymethylmethacrylate (Sepimat HB V, Seppic) 0.50C. Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline (Sepilift DPHP, Seppic 1.00 Xanthan gum (Keltrol CT G, Kelco) 0.15 Polyacrylate-13 (and) polyisobutene (and) polysorbate 20

(Sepiplus 400, Seppic) 1.00 Magnesium aluminum silicate (Veegum HS, R.T. Vanderbilt) 0.20Magnesium aluminum silicate (Veegum HS, R.T. Vanderbilt) 0.20 Palmitoyl hydrolyzed wheat protein (Deepaline PVB, Seppic) 0.50Palmitoyl hydrolyzed wheat protein (Deepaline PVB, Seppic) 0.50D. Magnesium aspartate (and) zinc gluconate (and) copper gluconate

(Sepitonic M3, Seppic) 1.00 Cimicifuga racemosa root extract (Phyto-age, Seppic) 0.10 Lactic acid, 90% 0.11E. Manganese gluconate (and) (olive) extract (Manoliva, Seppic) 0.10

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F. Xylitylglucoside (and) anhydroxylitol (and) xylitol (Aquaxyl, Seppic) 3.00G. Glycerin (and) acrylates polymer (and) VP/polycarbamyl polyglycol

ester (and) hydrolyzed/sesame protein PG-propyl methylsilanediol (Sesaflash, Seppic) 10.00

H. Fragrance (parfum) (Herbax, Robertet) 0.30 Hydroxypropyltrimonium maltodextrin crosspolymer (and)

Cucumis melo fruit extract (Extramel C, Seppic) 0.10 Potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate (Sepivital, Seppic) 0.01

Procedure: Separately combine A and B and heat to 85°C. Add C to A while mixing with a spatula. Add AC to B while homogenizing. Remove heat and add D in order into the vortex, drop by drop. At 60°C, add E drop by drop into batch. Add F to batch. At 50°C, add G. Continue to cool down and at 30°C, add H in order. Mix well after each addition.

Eye Gel Cream(Beraca)

This product promotes long-lasting moisturizing and anti-aging action.

A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% Aloe barbadensis extract (Beracare S4110, Beraca) 2.00 Phospholipids (and) maltodextrin (and) silica (Beracare LPFF, Beraca) 1.50 Polyquaternium-10 (Beracare PQS10, Beraca) 1.00 Xanthan gum, 2% solution (Keltrol CG, CP Kelco) 10.00B. Cetearyl alcohol 2.00 Steareth-2 (and) steareth-21 (and) PPG-15 stearyl ether

(Beracare APS, Beraca) 0.50 Theobroma grandiflorus seed butter (Rain Forest RF3410,

Cupuaçu Butter Refined, Beraca) 0.50 Mauritia flexuosa fruit oil (Rain Forest RF3810, Buriti Oil Refined, Beraca) 2.00C. Water (aqua) 5.00 Imidazolidinyl urea (Germall 115, ISP) 0.30D. Fragrance (parfum) qs

Procedure: Mix A in order and heat to 75–-80°C, stirring until totally dispersed. Separately heat B to 75–-80°C. Add A to B and homogenize for 10 min, stirring and maintaining temperature until homogeniztion. Cool to 40°C and add C while stirring moderately. Add D and homogenize. Cool to RT while stirring.

LOTiOnS

Antiaging Lotion(MMP Inc.)

This is a film-forming, natural moisturizing regulator for the skin. It is also used for anti-aging and is an instant-smoothing tensor.

A. Water (aqua) 63./65% Disodium EDTA 0.10 Water (aqua) (and) montmorillonite (and) cetyl alcohol (and)

glycerin (and) pentylene glycol (and) sucrose stearate (and) scleroglucan (Matte Lite Concentrate 269, MMP) 15.00

Sucrose distearate (Sisterna SP30-C, MMP/Sisterna) 0.75B. Dimethicone (and) dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer

(Clearocast 200, MMP) 5.00 Isododecane (and) isononyl isononanoate (Clearocast 550, MMP) 10.00 Zea mays (corn) (and) 7-dehydrocholesterol (7-DHC, 1% solution

in Corn Oil, MMP) 2.00C. Preservative 0.30 Saccharide hydrolysate (and) saccharide/isomerate (and) glycerin

(and) water (aqua) (and) polyglycerin-3 (and) methylpropanediol (and) scleroglucan (Liftaderm, MMP) 3.00

D. Fragrance (parfum) 0.20 100.00

Procedure: Combine A in main vessel. Mix with high shear agitation while heat-ing. Continue heating and mixing until batch reaches 70°C. Start cooling. In side vessel, prepare B. At 60°C, add B to main vessel. Start homogenizing (6000–-7000 rpm). Continue mixing with homogenizer until it builds viscosity. Start sweep mixing 45°C. Add C and D to batch. Continue mixing and cooling, shut down at 34°C.

Silky Skin Lotion(Stepan Co.)

This lotion provides a dry, silky after feel.

A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00%B. Steareth-20 (Brij 78, Uniqema) 1.00C. Laury lactyl lactate (Stepan-Mild L3, Stepan) 3.00 Isopropyl palmitate (Hallstar IPP, Hallstar) 10.00 Cetyl alcohol (Lipocol C, Lipo Chemicals) 3.00 Glyceryl stearate (Hallstar GMS Pure, Hallstar) 2.00D. Preservatives qs Color qs Dye qsE. Citric acid qs Sodium hydroxide qs

Procedure: Charge vessel with A. Add B to A. Start mixing and heat to 170–175°C. In a separate container, combine C. Heat to 170–175°C. Increase agitation of AB and slowly add C into AB. Emulsify for 20–25 min. Start cooling to 80°F. Add D, if desired. Adjust pH with E.

Milky Protective Lotion(Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.)

This milk lotion is formulated with a soy-derived emulsifier to reduce irritation and moisturize the skin. Butyl alcohol prevents inflammation and improves texture. It is suitable to protect delicate, sensitive skin.

A. Hydrogenated lecithin (Nikkol Lecinol S-10, Nikko) 3.00% Butyl alcohol (Nikkol Butyl Alcohol EX, Nikko) 3.00 Ethylhexyl palmitate (Nikkol IOP, Nikko) 8.00 Dimethicone 0.30 Cyclomethicone 2.00B. Xanthan gum 0.20 Glycerin 2.00 Phenoxyethanol 0.40 Water (aqua) 83.10

Procedure: Heat A and B separately to 80°C. While mixing B by homomixer, add A gradually to emulsify. Cool to RT while mixing with paddle mixer.

Silky Body Lotion(Penreco)

This lotion has a luxuriously light and silky feel.

A. Water (aqua) 82.18% Carbomer (Carbopol 940, Lubrizol/Noveon) 0.36 Disodium EDTA 0.10 Propylene glycol 2.00B. Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate (Arlacel 165, Croda) 1.50 Hydrogenated polydecene (and) ethylene propylene/styrene

copolymer (and) butylene/ethylene/styrene copolymer (Versagel MG 750, Penreco) 10.00

Cetearyl alcohol (and) ceteareth-20 (Lipowax D, Lipo Chemicals) 2.00C. Triethanolamine 0.21 Dizaolidinyl urea (Germall II, ISP) 1.00 Fragrance (parfum) 0.65 100.00

Procedure: Combine A with mixing and heat to 75–-80°C. In a different vessel, combine B and heat with mixing to 80°C. Combine A and B and mix. When homogeneous, cool to 40°C and add C.

Anti-wrinkle Moisture Lotion(Corum Inc.)

This formula is formulated with a cholesterol derivative to replenishe natural skin lipids and improve natural moisturization while peptides are used for their anti-wrinkle, antiaging and skin firming effects.

A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00%B. Carbomer (Carbopol 941, 2%, Noveon) 15.00C. Glyceryl stearate (and) steareth-20 (and) stearic acid

(Corum 2365, Corum) 10.00 Cetearyl alcohol (Nafol 1618H, Sasol) 1.00 Octyldodecyl myristate (Corum 5024, Corum) 1.00 Myristyl myristate (Corum 5028, Corum) 2.00

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Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (Corum 5041, Corum) 1.00 Cholesteryl hydroxystearate (Corum 5089, Corum) 1.00 Dimethicone (DC 225 Fluid, Dow Corning) 2.00 Dimethicone (DC 200/350 Fluid, Dow Corning) 0.50 Macadamia integrifolia nut oil (Madadamia Nut Oil, Floratech) 0.20D. Sodium hydroxide, 10% 0.72E. Sclerotium gum (Tinocare GL, Ciba) 2.00 Glycerin (and) palmitoyl tripeptide (Corum 8803, Corum) 3.00 Glycerin (and) palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3 (Corum 8804, Corum) 1.00 Glycerin (and) palmitoyl hexapeptide (Corum 8806, Corum) 5.00 Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil (and) Lupinus albus

seed extract (Collageneer, Expanscience) 1.50 Cyclopentasiloxane (and) dimethiconol (DC 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning) 1.00 Methylisothiazolinone (Optiphen MIT, ISP) 0.10 Fragrance (parfum) 0.05

Procedure: Combine A to make a 2% dispersion. Combine B. Add A to B. Heat AB to 75°C. Separately combine C and heat to 75°C. Add C to AB at 75°C. Add D to neutralize. Cool while stirring slowly. At about 40°C, add E and mix well between each addition.

CLEAnSERSCreamy Moisturizing Body Wash

(Lipo Chemicals Inc.)

This formula is a rich body wash that keeps the skin from becoming defatted.

A. Water (aqua) 42.35% Polyglyceryl-10 eicosanedioate/tetradecanedioate esters

(NeoSolue Aqua, Lipo/Nippon) 3.00 Disodium EDTA 0.10B. Sodium laureth sulfate (Standapol ES-2, Cognis) 32.00C. Cocamidopropyl betaine (Velvetex BK-25, Cognis) 10.00 Glycol distearate (Lipo EGDS, Lipo Chemicals) 1.25 Cocamide MEA (Comperlan 100, Cognis) 1.50 bis-Behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate

(Plandool G, Lipo/Nippon) 3.00 PEG-150 distearate (Lipopeg 6000-DS, Lipo Chemicals) 1.00 PEG-100 stearate (Lipopeg 100-S, Lipo Chemicals) 1.25 Polysorbate 20 (Liposorb L-20, Lipo Chemicals) 4.50D. Methylchloroisothiazolinone (and) methylisothiazolinone

(Kathon CG, Rohm & Haas) 0.05 100.00

Procedure: In main kettle, combine A and mix until uniform. Add B to A with prop mixing. Mix until clear and uniform. Begin heating to 70–75°C. Separately combine C and heat to 60–65°C. Mix until uniform. Add C to batch with prop mixing. Begin cooling. At 40°C, add D to batch. Cool to 30°C.

Jojoba Exfoliating Facial Cream(Desert Whale Jojoba Company)

This facial cream gently exfoliates the face, while moisturizing the skin and acting as a mild, nonionic surfactant that melts into the skin upon application for long-lasting moisturization.

A Water (aqua) 30.00% Tetrasodium EDTA (Versene 100, Dow Chemical) 0.05B Sodium lauryl sulfoacetate (Lathanol LAL Powder, Stepan) 5.00C. Poloxamer 407 (Pluracare F127 Prill, BASF) 5.00D. Jojoba wax PEG-120 esters (Jojoba Aqua SOL, Desert Whale Jojoba) 3.00E. Methylparaben 0.25 Propylparaben 0.10 Glycerin (Emery 912, Cognis) 2.50F. Water (aqua) 31.11 Tetrasodium EDTA (Versene 100, Dow Chemical) 0.05G. Hydroxyethylcellulose (Cellosize HEC QP-52, 000H, Dow Chemical) 0.50H. Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil (Jojoba Oil Colorless,

Desert Whale Jojoba) 8.90 Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-30 stearate (Arlatone 983S, Uniqema) 8.90 Stearyl alcohol (Crodacol S-70, Croda) 1.50J. DMDM hydantoiiooin (Mackstat DMDM Hydantiooin, McIntyre) 0.20

K. Fragrance (parfum) (Hawaiian Rain, Wellington Fragrance) 0.34 FD&C Bblue No. 1 solution 0.063 D&C Rred No. 33 solution 0.034L. Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) butter (and) hydrogenated jojoba oil

(and) tocopheryl acetate (and) soybean oil (Jojoba Butter Beads-E, Desert Whale Jojoba) 2.50

100.00

Procedure: Combine A. Slowly add B to A with prop, scraping sides occasionally. Heat to 75°C with prop. Mix with prop as slowly as possible to minimize foam. Add C to AB with prop maintaining 70–-75°C, scraping sides occasionally. Add D to AB with prop maintaining 70–-75°C. Separately combine E, heat and mix occasionally until clear. Separately combine F with prop. Sprinkle G in F with prop and heat to 75°C. Separately combine H and heat to 80°C in oil bath. Add E to FG with prop at 75°C. Add ABCD to EFG at 75°C with prop. Add H at 80°C to batch at 75°C with prop, slowly allowing the additions to be taken in. Add J to batch at 50°C with prop and switch to sweep. Add D to batch at RT with sweep. Add L at RT with sweep.

Body Scrub(Micro Powders Inc.)

A. Water (aqua) 53.70% Water (aqua) (and) carbomer (Carbopol 940, 2% aq solution, Noveon) 10.00 Glycerin, USP 2.00B. Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate (Arlacel 165, Uniqema) 6.00 Isoeicosane (Permethyl 102A, Presperse) 5.00 Neopentyl glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate (Liponate NPGC-2,

Lipo Chemicals) 8.00 Stearic acid 3.00 Stearyl alcohol (Lipocol S, Lipo Chemicals) 1.00C. Polyethylene (Microscrub 50 PC, Micro Powders) 10.00D. Triethanolamine, 99% 0.30E. Propylene glycol (and) diazolidinyl urea (and) methylparaben (and)

propylparaben (Germaben II, ISP) 1.00 100.00

Procedure: Combine A with prop mixing and heat to 70°C. Separately combine B and heat to 75°C. Add B to A with prop mixing. Hold at 72–-75°C for 15 min. Add C to batch. Mix until uniform. Add D to batch. Mix until uniform. Cool to 40°C. Add E to batch. Mix until uniform. Cool to 25–-28°C.

Facial Cleaner(Pilot Chemical Co.)

Water (aqua) 75.00 Water (aqua), PEG-80 sorbitan laurate (and) sodium laureth sulfate (and) cocamidopropyl betaine (and) sodium chloride (and) PEG-150 distearate (and) citric acid (and) quaternium-15 (and) tetrasodium EDTAINCI nNot pProvided (CalBlend BSC, Pilot) 25.00 Sodium chloride qs Preservative qs Fragrance (parfum) qs Dye qs

Procedure: Combine in order with constant mixing. Mix for 1 hran extra hour. The final batch should be clear, smooth, homogenous and lump-free.

MiSCELLAnEOUSAntiaging Serum

(Sederma)This formula works on the origin of youth by targeting the cell actors, guaranteeing lifespan and youthfulness.

A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00%B. Xanthum gum 0.40C. Carbomer (Ultrez 10, Noveon) 0.30D. Water (aqua) 5.00E. C12–15 alkyl benzoate (Crodamol AB, Croda) 3.00 Phenoxyethanol 0.80 Polysorbate 20 (Crillet 1, Croda) 0.50 Cetearyl alcohol (Crodacol CS 90, Croda) 1.00 Sucrose polybehenate (Crodaderm B, Croda) 0.50

Vol. 123, No. 1/January 2008 www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Cosmetics & Toiletries® magazine | 91

Skin CARE FORMULARY

PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate (Crodamol STS, Croda) 0.50 Cetearyl octanoate (Crodamol CAP, Croda) 3.00F. Caprylic/capric triglyceride (and) teprenone-J.ouou-C-INCI nNot pProvidedit

ou-r, and , leaving the skin feeling fresh and radiant all day.ynnS & Mayr------- (Renovage, Sederma) 3.00

Acrylates/C 10–30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer (Pemulen TR2, Noveon) 0.20G. Potassium sorbate 0.10H. Water (aqua) 3.00 Sodium hydroxide, 30% 0.40 Fragrance (parfum) (Azalea, Expressions Parfumées) 0.20

Procedure: Separately disperse B in A with Helix stirring (s = 30 rpm) for 1 hr. Sprinkle C in D and allow swelling for 30 min. Separately combine E and heat to 75°C. Pour CD into AB and heat to 75°C. Exptemporaneously, pour E and F into batch with Helix stirring (s = 30 rpm) for 1 hr. Add G to batch. Add H to batch in order and homogenize well.

Antiaging Face Mask(Phoenix Chemical Inc.)

A. Water (aqua) 29.25% Kaolin (WCD 2747 Colloidal Kaolin, MPSI) 25.00B. Polycarbamyl polyglycol ester (Giovarex P-0580, Phoenix Chemical) 4.00C. Glycerin USP 10.00

PEG-8 (Carbowax PEG-400, Dow Chemical) 5.00 Bentonite (WCD 670 Bentonite NF BC, MPSI) 5.00D. Triisostearin (Pelemol GTIS, Phoenix Chemical) 16.00 Perfluorononyl dimethicone (Pecosil FSU-300, Phoenix Chemical) 0.75 Glyceryl behenate (Pelemol GMB, Phoenix Chemical) 0.75 Cetearyl alcohol (and) steareth-30 (and) ceteth-10 (Phoenoxol T,

Phoenix Chemical) 1.50E. Phenoxyethanol (and) methylparaben (and) butylparaben (and)

ethylparaben (and) propylparaben (and) isobutylparaben (Eukyl K-300, schülke) 1.00

Butylene glycol (and) Citrus aurantium amara (bitter orange peel) extract (and) xanthan gum (and) methylparaben (Hydrorange, Coletica) 1.00

Fragrance (parfum) (XBF-800058 Crisp Morning, IFF) 0.75 100.00

Procedure: Blend A in order with medium shear at 20–30°C. Fully disperse B and mix for 15–30 min. Do not aerate. Mix for 10–15 min after ingredients are combined. Separately blend B with medium shear mixer. Mix for 15–30 min at 30–40°C until completely dispersed and uniform. Add AB to C. Mix for 5–10 min with medium shear. Heat to 70–75°C while mixing. Separately combine and heat to 70–75°C. Mix slowly with a low-shear mixer for 5–10 min. Add D to batch using medium shear mixer. Mix slowly for 5–10 min. Cool to 30–40°C with medium-shear mixing. Add E in order to batch with slow, low-shear mixing. Mix for 10–15 min between additions.

92 | Cosmetics & Toiletries® magazine www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 123, No. 1/January 2008

Skin CARE FORMULARY

SUPPLiER LiSTinG

Ajinomoto Co. inc.Fort Lee, NJ, USA Tel: 1-201-292-3200www.ajinomoto-usa.com

Arch Personal Care ProductsSouth Plainfield, NJ, USATel: 1-908-561-5200E-mail: archpc@archchemicals.comwww.archpersonalcare.com

Beraca ingredientsSão Paulo, BrazilTel: 55-(11)-5509-3722E-mail: beraca@guposabara.com.brwww.beraca.com.br

BioChemica internationalMelbourne, FL, USATel: 1-321-254-3444E-mail: james@biochemica.comwww.biochemica.com

Centerchem inc.Norwalk, CT, USATel: 1-203-822-9800E-mail: cosmetics@centerchem.comwww.centerchem.com

Cognis Deutschland GmbH & Co. kG40789 Monheim am Rhein, GermanyTel: 49-2173-4995-412

Colonial Chemical inc.South Pittsburg, TN, USATel: 1-423-837-8800E-mail: danderson@colonialchem.comwww.colonialchem.com

CorumTaipei, TaiwanTel: 1-886-2-8751-6060E-mail: James.Lee@Corum.com.twwww.corum.com.tw

Desert Whale Jojoba Co.Tucson, AZ, USATel: 1-520-882-4195E-mail: marketing@desertwhale.comwww.desertwhale.com

DkSH north AmericaBaltimore, MD, USATel: 1-410-385-1666E-mail: tony.ansald@Dksh.comwww.dksh.com

Dow Corning Corp.Midland, MI, USATel: 1-989-496-6000

E-mail: lifesciences@dowcorning.comwww.dowcorning.com/personalcare

Eckart Cosmetic Colors LLCPainesville, OH, USATel: 1-440-954-7600 E-mail: shannon.stevens@altana.comwww.eckart.net

Evonik/DegussaDüsseldorf, Germany Phone: 49-211-65-04-10 Fax: 49-211-65-04-14-72www.degussa.com

LCW—Sensient Cosmetic TechnologiesSaint Ouen l’Aumone, FranceTel: 1-33-1-34-48-57-00E-mail : lcw@lcw.frwww.lcw.fr

Lipo ChemicalsPaterson, NJ, USATel: 1-193-345-8600E-mail: salesandmarketing@lipochemicals.comwww.lipochemicals.com

Lipotec (see Centerchem)

Lonza inc.Allendale, NJ, USATel: 1-201-316-9250E-mail: angela.sangirard@lonza.comwww.lonza.com

Lubrizol Advanced Materials inc./noveon inc.Cleveland, OH, USA Tel: 1-216-447-5000www.personalcare.noveon.com

Micro Powders inc.Tarrytown, NY, USATel: 1-914-793-4058E-mail: trgizzo@micropowders.comwww.mpipersonalcare.com

MMP inc.South Plainfield, NJ, USATel: 1-908-561-4435E-mail: dwillbergh@mmpinc.comwww.mmpinc.com

nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.Tokyo, JapanTel: 81-3-3661-6826E-mail: sakurada@nikkol.co.jpwww.nikkol.co.jp

noveon (see Lubrizol)

Pentapharm (see Centerchem)

PenrecoThe Woodlands, TX, USATel: 1-281-362-3171www.penreco.com

Pilot Chemical inc.Cincinatti, Ohio, USATel: 1-513-326-0600Fax: 1-513-326-0601www.pilotchemical.com

Presperse inc.Somerset, NJ, USATel: 1-732-356-5200www.presperse.com

Provital (see Centerchem)

Phoenix ChemicalSomerville, NJ, USATel: 1-908-707-0232www.phoenix-chem.com

Rhodia inc.Cranbury, NJ, USATel: 1-609-860-4000E-mail: tobias.futterer@us.rhodia.comwww.rhodia-novecare.com

Sasol Olefins & SurfactantsWestwood, NJ, USATel: 1-201-666-9918E-mail: barbara.pagliocca@us.sasol.comwww.sasol.com

Sederma SASYvelines, FranceTel: 33-(0)-1-34-84-10-10E-mail: olga.gracioso@sederma.frwww.sederma.fr

SeppicFairfield, NJ, USATel: 1-973-882-5597E-mail: pcseppicinc@airliquide.comwww.seppic.com

SilabBrive, FranceTel: 33-555-84-58-40E-mail: silab@silab.frwww.silab.fr

StepanNorthfield, IL, USATel: 1-847-446-7500www.stepan.com