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Z E N O R I E N T A L J O U R N E Y S

Asian Arts and Education Consultancy ABN 64 661 070 230

Mobile 0401 123 347 Fax 08 8298 5927 Email lee.grafton@bigpond.com www.zenorientaljourenys.com.au

Sketchbook India Zen Oriental Journeys aim to provide outstanding programs which explore the civilizations of Asia beyond the depth of a casual tourist itinerary. Our programs are individually planned for originality, inclusion of significant destinations which are thoroughly researched, and provide a tour which is balanced between engagement and relaxation. The unique itineraries reflect a thorough knowledge of the places, peoples, history and cultures of the region. They are designed to take you ‘off the beaten track’ to include crafts villages, galleries, museums, sacred ceremonies and festivals, marketplaces and special arrangements for performances, all with meticulous attention to the practicalities of ensuring an enriching and rewarding experience.

Zen Oriental Journeys are designed by Lee Grafton who has developed a high level of organisational skills in operating these tours since 1982. Lee was for many years a visual arts teacher and became the State Advisor to the Asia Education Foundation of the Sidney Myer Asialink Centre of the University of Melbourne. Recognised as a leading authority on the arts of Asia, he was recently invited to write and deliver post graduate and Master’s Degree courses in Asian art for the University of Adelaide and Art Gallery of South Australia, as well as the Including Studies of Asia post graduate courses for educators at Flinders University. He has been a regular traveller to all destinations since 1971 and developed a network of outstanding licenced travel partners throughout East, South, Southeast and Central Asia and now Africa. He has planned and operated tours for Australian travel companies as well the Department of Education, The Asia Education Foundation, International Education Services, and school sites.

There is no place on earth which enjoys such a profusion of creative energies in the arts as India.

Join our small group Journey to set up your easel in some of India’s amazing locales, sketch and paint, photograph or simply immerse yourself in the riot of colour in stunning textiles; encounter

timeless village landscapes, peoples and places. 4 to 21 January 2021.

Gujarat, the special focus of this tour, has long been famous for the cultivation of cotton and indigo, and its influence on textile design and production techniques has been keenly felt across the world. We travel through a varied landscape and engage in workshops given by such as the fabulous Ajrakh block printing of Dr Ismail Mohammad Khatri, age-old crafts villages with Rogan textile art and lacquer work, and Bhirandiyari village to see the amazing coloured huts and embroidery. Then there are pottery ‘studios’ and a visit to Mirvana where you can see traditional silk beads being made by a kind and gracious master. Not to forget the wonderful tie dye work of Ali Mohammad Isha who runs workshops using natural dyes. Engage in hands-on workshops with master craftspeople for which Gujarat and Jaipur are renowned. Very much off the beaten track is the Chambal River where we have river safaris to watch freshwater dolphins, gharials and flying fish,

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and many species of bird. A delightful safari lodge is a destination in itself. We’ll also visit the ‘Pink City’ of Jaipur, the Taj Mahal and Delhi

Sketchbook India Sketchbook India will be led from Australia by Ruth Flaherty, currently teaching Visual Arts at Flinders University and giving private classes in her own studio. She is a winner of the Mitcham Art Prize and the Rotary’s ‘Best Watercolour Prize’, exhibiting her work including the South Australian Royal Society of Art. Her textile work has been in South Australia’s Living Artists’ shows and the exclusive fibre and textiles exhibition 'Stranded'. She founded the Visual Art Educators’ Association of South Australia of which she was president for 7 years and winning the Arts Minister’s Arts Educators Award. Ruth also holds a M.Ed. (Studies of Asia) and has been a tour manager for many Asian and European tours, including two recent journeys to Gujarat and Nagaland.

On this Journey you will be accompanied by one of our travel partners in India, Mr Abhijit Verma. Abhi is a Graduate in History and Geography and started his career in the travel industry at a very young age. He has over 25 years of experience, gained whilst working with some of India’s premier travel companies. A nature lover and wildlife enthusiast by heart, he has travelled the length and breadth of India and has had the opportunity to lead tours for some renowned organisations like the Smithsonian Institute and American Museum of Natural History, but he knows there is so much more to explore and see. Travel is the adrenaline which makes him tick round the clock and he is never too tired to help prepare a special holiday for his discerning travellers. In his spare time, he loves to travel to new places, listen to old Hindi songs and play football with his son. He lives in Delhi and looks after Zen Oriental Journeys’ clients in India. At each destination you will also have a knowledgeable local guide.

Do visit facebook Zen Gujarat 2017

Unique small group tour. "Great Journeys-Fascinating Places-Immerse"

18 DAYS. January 3 to January 22, 2021 On this Journey you will

• Discover the sheer diversity of the peoples, places and cultures of the Sub-Continent

• Witness ancient rituals and stunning dance and music

• Encounter tribal peoples living a life imbued with centuries of tradition

• Be amazed by the crafts and textile artists and their heritage

• Visit artists’ studios, galleries and museums dedicated to Gujarat’s textile heritage

• Participate in a range of crafts workshops given by masters

• Sketch, draw, paint or photograph peoples, places, landscapes and experiences

• Immerse yourself in a dazzling swirl of colour, heady spices, flavours and sounds

• Soak up the atmosphere, marvel at the flora and fauna of the Raan of Kutch

• Catch glimpses of Asiatic lions, leopards, flamingos, and much more

• Purchase suburb examples of textiles antique and modern, from beadwork to double ikat; jewellery and crafts

• Sketch and explore Jaipur, the ‘Pink City’.

• Wonder at the beauty of sunset on the Taj Mahal

Is this trip right for you?

Sketchbook India is an active tour. It visits parts of India that are not on regular tour itineraries and you will see an India unlike you imagined. You do not need to be an ‘artist’ to participate in the tour as in each destination there is plenty to occupy yourself whilst others paint or draw or photograph. It involves some early morning starts and occasionally a long drive. There are no long hikes or vast staircases to climb. You will need to be able to clamber into a boat for the

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Chambal River ‘safari’. Hotels are a wide range from 5 star deluxe to local guest houses, all of which are equipped with modern western style amenities in ensuite bathrooms.

Day 01 –Sunday – 03 January, 2021 Adelaide- Ahmedabad

Fly from your capital city or Adelaide with Singapore Airlines flight SQ 278 at 1025hrs, arriving in Singapore at 1510. Transfer to Singapore Airlines flight SQ 530 at 1840 hrs to arrive in Ahmedabad at 2150 hrs. We will be met and transferred to our hotel.

Overnight Stay: Pride Hotel or similar (near Airport) Day 02– Monday -04 January, 2021 Ahmedabad- Dasada – (via Modhera and Patan) B/L/D

The Journey seeks to explore and open windows, to link myth and ritual to ageless art forms and to place the rural arts into perspective. ‘History is to be seen displayed in full detail in the villages of India-provided one has the vision and insight to read that history’. (D.D. Kosambi in The Earthen Drum, PupulJayakar, New Delhi). We will see an India in a stateof flux. We begin the Sketchbook Journey by experiencing a short peek of Ahmedabad which we are to visit later to celebrate a special festival, while driving to Patan, home to Rani kiVav, a beautiful Gujarati stepwell built in the 11th century.We will have an extended time here for sketching and photography of the structure. This will be followed by a visit to the famous double ikat weavers of Patan: see the links between maths and art as you observe the intricately tied and dyed threads of the ikat process being woven together to form complicated patterns, a craft handed down over 700 years. In India, ikat is known as patola or bandha – to tie, bind or link – which involves the binding of the threads with dye-resistant material and then dyeing them-ragana, which comes from the root word, raga, the musical mode, and which means to ‘tint with the touch of emotion with devotion’. Double ikat means both the warp and the weft are dyed to form intricate patterns when woven. The art of dyeing has always been likened to alchemy, with magic and with transformation, with the mystery of the unknown. A completed ikat is considered a powerful magic cloth, imbued with the power to cure, to purify and to protect. Stunning.

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Continue driving to Dasada, arriving in the evening.

Overnight at Air-conditioned cottages at Rann Rider

Day 03 –Tuesday - 05 January 2021 Dasada B/L/D

An early morning departure to enjoy a jeep safari to the Little Rann (desert) of Kutch, famous as the world's last refuge of the Indian wild ass (khur). You can make sketches of the environment whilst waiting to spot an Indian wolf, desert fox or nilgai. In the afternoon we will take another safari to villages around Little Rann to see various tribes such as the Kharpat, Rabari, Mirs, Bharvad, Dangasia and Koli. We will stop in one of these picturesque villages so you can capture the atmosphere in your sketchbooks. We usually go straight back to the resort for a rest and some lunch and to a village later in the afternoon and then driving on through the wide landscape punctuated by birds and skies to the Little Rann. Here is a photographer’s delight, but the BEST part of this day has to be the sunset over the Navtalao Lake and watching the birds coming in for the night. If you didn’t want to get up early (leave by 6.30am) and go to the Little Rann in the morning, you could stay and sketch and paint at the Rann Rider resort as the grounds are beautiful and there’s plenty of material to choose from. You could then go to the sunset over the lake in the afternoon.

Overnight at Rann Rider

Day 04 to 08– Wednesday - 06 to Sunday – 10 January, 2021 Dasada–Bhuj B/D

Drive for around 7 hours to Bhuj. During our stay in Bhuj we will be travelling to many remote villages where the arts thrive and the quality is high. We will meet the artisans within the Banni villages like-Nirona Village (Rogan Art and Bell Making, Lacquer work, Leather work),Gandhi no gam-Ludiya Village (wooden carving and textile work) , Khavda (terracotta work, batisik and print work), Kaladungar (to see the White Rann – salt desert) and also the Jack Temple, Hodko and Dhordo. This will take a day but is worth doing – plenty of sketching and painting opportunities, plus lots of traditional arts and artisans.

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We will also visit Mandvi for a full day exploring the ship making area, the beach and also bead making. It is a great place for sketching

Experiences in Bhuj include the Aina Mahal, Prag Mahal Palace, Swami Narayan Temple, Kachchh Museum, Folk Arts Museum, and the Bhojodi Crafts area. Kutchi handicrafts are renowned the world over, from elaborately embroidered clothing to luxurious quilts and block-printing, heavy silver jewellery, and woodcarving.

One day to visit the Palace, sketch, paint in the grounds, or simply explore the buildings and local markets for those not sketching. (The markets are in the streets just outside the palace walls so are close). We will also spend one of the morning learning Tie and Dye from expert tie and dye specialist MohhamadIsha and his family. We will also arrange to visit the studio of renowned textile printer Dr Ismail Mohammad Khatri.

A day excursion to Ajrakhpur (about a 1-hour drive each way). Here the artisans specialize inAjrakh, a block printed cotton cloth used traditionally by local herdsmen with natural dies.

On the way back to Bhuj, stop at Bhujodi – a village skilled in traditional Bandhani(tie and dye), block printing and weaving. Here you can view live demonstrations and buy anything from shawls to blankets from the artisans directly. Bhujodi is also a centre for Piltoom weaving, mewada embroidery and woodcarving.

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Day 09 –Monday – 11 January, 2021 Bhuj–Sayla B/L/D

Drive for about 5 - 6 hours to reach to Sayla, another famous centre for ikat silk weaving. On the way we visit the fascinating Jain Temple and also the temple of the Hindu Goddess Bahuchra Mata, which is a very interesting ‘Temple of the First Hair Cut’ for children.

Later we will visit Vastadi, famous for Tangadia weaving and also you can see rugs being made out of old clothes.

Our stay is at The Old Bell Guesthouse, the European Guesthouse of the Sayla princely state. The erstwhile ruling family of Sayla still lives in one part of the premises, thus offering an interesting experience as we will enjoy interacting with them and discovering a way of life from times gone by. The property is still quite rustic, but the rooms are large, air-conditioned and with simple décor.

Old Bell Guest House.

Day 10 & 11 – Tuesday & Wednesday - 12 & 13 January, 2021 Sayla B/L/D

During our stay we will enjoy an evening walk in the nearby forest and also meet local Bharwad shepherds and an interesting cow shelter which has hundreds of abandoned cows. We will also visit a village near Muli comprising fascinating old houses and some amazing weaving. Also visit Wadhwan, known for its bandhani tie-and-dye textiles, brassware and other handiwork where we enjoy a lovely walk through the Old town. You will also visit the school that my travel partner in India supports. It’s very much a community school and you’ll be able to see how the school supports the local community as well. On our last trip here, the school put on a special acrobatic performance with the local villagers, demonstrating their strength. It was brilliant! Let’s hope they will do it again.

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Later we meet Mr Bhawani Singh Mori, popularly known as Green Bapu. He is an amazing personality- a nature lover at heart and soul, ready to help the needy, and a great photographer. He has amazing collection of pictures that he has collected over the years while protecting the wildlife of the area. We will sit and enjoy a conversation with him. For many this experience was a highlight on our previous Journeys to Gujarat.

Old Bell Guest House.

Day 12 – Thursday – 14 January 2021 Sayla - Ahmedabad B/D

This morning we cover any places that we may not have managed to visit previous day and drive to Ahmadabad (around 3 hours) and check into our hotel. Later we enjoy a visit to the Sabarmati Ashram. Today is Makar Sakranti or Uttarayan. Uttarayan is derived from two different Sanskrit words "uttara" (North) and "ayana" (movement). The festival of Uttarayan marks the day when winter begins to turn into summer, according to the Indian calendar. It is the sign for farmers that the sun is back, and that harvest season is approaching. It’s the last day of winter and first of summer. Unlike other Hindu festivals which follow the lunar motion, Makar Sankranti follows the movement of the sun. It marks the beginning of the sun’s transition into the zodiac of Capricorn (Makar=Capricorn, Sankranti= transition).

Paintings by Ruth Flaherty

For days preceding the festival of Makar Sankranti (Uttarayan), the markets are filled with colourful kites. On this day you can see thousands of Kites flying in the skies. The entire city of Ahmedabad – with friends, families and relatives –gather on rooftops. Everyone is engaged in a kite flying frenzy. It is exciting being in midst of all these festivities, seeing the kites soar, blanketing the crisp winter sky in colourful spectacles. We will spend an evening on the rooftop of a private home in Ahmedabad to join in the fun. We will also visit the

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International Kite Festival which is now celebrated on the banks of Sabarmati River and has participation from many foreign countries.

House of MG

Day 13 – Friday - 15 January, 2021 Ahmedabad B/L/D

The festival continues today too; however, we will enjoy a walking tour through the old quarters. Exploring the old city with our local guide will give a multitude of photographic and sketching possibilities: the Swami Narayan Temple, the street side stalls and bazaars, walk through narrow lanes with beautiful old house, enjoying a “chai” local tea and the ambience of the colourful city streets with Kites flying in skies, will offer us a great view We also visit Siddhi Syed Mosque and then the most interesting Calico Museum of Textiles, (by prior permission only), today justly regarded as one of the foremost textile museums in the world and an important Indian institution, not just for its collection but also for the stunning architectural heritage it presents. Its outstanding collection of Indian fabrics exemplifies handicraft textiles spanning five centuries and attracts large numbers of visitors from the general public, as well as increasing numbers of Indian and international research scholars. Most significantly, it has become a major reference area for India’s surviving handicrafts practitioners and for the Indian machine-textile industry. Later we enjoy visit to home of a local Kalamkari Artist before returning to hotel.

The House of MG is one of the oldest buildings in the city, and wonderfully represents the colonial heritage architecture of the early 20th century. It has a gallery showcasing traditional textiles of India from the Mangaldas family collection, a Tribal heirlooms boutique and a heritage bookstore. Plenty of fascinating aspects to explore, sketch photograph and paint. Tonight we have arranged a special Gujarati Dinner.

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Day 14 Saturday 16 January Ahmadabad - fly to Jaipur- Am flight B/D

Early morning transfer to airport, fly to Jaipur (Spice Jet flight 0730 hrs-0915 hrs), Arrival transfer to hotel. Jaipur, popularly known as the Pink City is the capital of the state of Rajasthan. It is a city with a timeless quality to it, a city where the ancient and the modern co-exist in complete harmony. Known for the beautiful palaces and forts, Jaipur is a city rich with culture and heritage. Its most striking feature is the pink wash applied to the buildings, giving Jaipur its universal title, the 'Pink City'.

Later enjoy an orientation tour of this bustling city. All seven gates into the old city remain, one of which leads into Johari Bazaar - the famous jewellers' market. The most obvious landmark in the old city is the Iswari Minar Swarga Sul (the Heaven-Piercing Minaret) built to overlook the city, but the most striking sight is the stunning artistry of the five-storey facade of the Hawa Mahal, or the Palace of Winds. The palace was built in 1799 to enable ladies of the royal household to watch street life and processions and is part of the City Palace complex which forms the heart of the old city. Jaipur's crafts, especially lacquer bangles are famous all over the world. The City Palace complex houses a museum with a superb collection of costumes and armoury of the Rajputs and Mughals. The Jantar Mantar (Observatory). is literally known as 'Instruments for measuring the harmony of the heavens’. It was built between 1728 to 1734 by Jai Singh.

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Day 15 Sunday – 17 January, 2021 Jaipur B/D

In the morning you may set up your easels in part of the old city bazaar or visit the Amber Fort and Palace by elephant back (or Jeep) to experience one of the most magnificent destinations in Jaipur. The fort is an example of a fascinating blend of Hindu and Muslim architecture built in red sandstone and white marble. The magnificent yellow walls of the palace conceal examples of the finest craftsmanship – mirrored chambers, latticed windows, carved alabaster and pavilions with fountains and painted porticos. We will have vehicles available to drop you in the old city and pick you up again. Keep an eye open on your orientation tour for a likely location.

Day 16 Monday - 18 January, 2021 Jaipur B/D

Today we will enjoy a workshop on block printing in Jaipur and then have free to time to explore various sights where we may spend time to enjoy sketching. There are some interesting places both in Old and New part where we can stop and enjoy some sketching. Those not interested in sketching can enjoy shopping in Jaipur where you will find an enticing variety of goods. Jaipur is awash with craftsman and artisans which make an amazing wander through the streets unforgettable. Some of the most precious gemstones, silver jewellery, bangles, clothes, pottery and textiles are everywhere.

Day 17 Tuesday - 19 January, 2021 Jaipur - Chambal B/L/D

Leave Rajasthan behind this morning and drive across the beautiful rural landscapes to Chambal en route visiting the deserted city of Fatehpur Sikri, a new capital built by the Mughal emperor Akbar in 1570 but abandoned after only 15 years of habitation. The walled city, in pristine condition, occupies a dramatic site with excellent views from the ridge to the plains around. The palace itself consists of a series of courtyards and beautifully wrought deep red sandstone pavilions. In the Diwan-i-Khas, an intriguing column fuses architectural styles and religious symbols, reflecting the emperor’s deep interest in other faiths and their expressions in art.

Lunch will be at a local restaurant on the way Nestling in the midst of over 120 acres of woodland and pasture and surrounded by farmland, Chambal Safari Lodge offers a lovely wilderness experience. In the vicinity are some lovely cultural sights and the famous National Chambal Sanctuary.

In the evening you will enjoy visit to Bateshwar Temples on Ghats of River Yamuna to enjoy sunset view from the terrace of The Kunj overlooking the Ghats and Temples

Check it out on

www.chambalsafari.com

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The ancient settlement of Bateshwar is situated on a crescent bend of the river Yamuna, around 20 minutes drive from the Chambal Safari Lodge. More than 40 temples dedicated to the glory of Shiva glisten pearly white along the ghats of the river. A multitude of architectural styles, time periods and historical events are reflected in these simple shrines. The ghats are evocative of Varanasi and the temples of Pushkar. A timeless landscape, an un-hurried pace and the calm, positive vibe of heartfelt prayer.

Day 18 Wednesday 20 January, 2021 -Chambal - Agra B/D

Set against a stunning backdrop, framed by the ravines and sandbanks, the calm waters of the Chambal River are best explored on boats. You will enjoy a morning boat safari on the Chambal River. The gentle pace of the River Safari is designed to provide spectacular sightings of the gharials, muggers & turtles basking in the sun; the many migratory and resident birds flying sorties; the occasional glimpses of the Gangetic river dolphins breaking surface.

Later drive to Agra ( 01 hour drive) and check in at your hotel. Later you will be taken to visit the magnificent Red Fort, recently added to the World Heritage list by UNESCO. Better preserved and more intimate than Delhi’s, the Red Fort here houses the beautiful Jehangiri Mahal which despite its name after another Mughal emperor, was actually built by Akbar. Later additions by Shah Jehan include the glorious mirror-inlaidSheesh Mahal and the elegant marble Khas Mahal.

Then it’s a visit to the ‘Taj’ itself at sunset where you pass under the gateway inscription which exhorts…

‘Oh thou soul at peace,

Return thou unto thy Lord, well-pleased and well-pleasing unto Him!

Enter thou amongst My servants-

And enter thou My Paradise!’

(The final words of the Taj’s gateway inscription: the whole of which is in the Qur’an’s Sura 89, al-Fajr, “The Daybreak”).

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Day 19 Thursday 21 January, 2021 Agra drive to Delhi fly to Australia - SQ 403/277 Delhi 2145 B/L

This morning you have the option of viewing the Taj Mahal at sunrise from across the river or from some viewpoints.

You may be reminded of Rabindranath Tagore’s famous description…..

“Only let this one tear-drop, The Taj Mahal, glisten spotlessly bright on the cheek of Heaven for ever and ever…O King, you sought to charm time with the magic of beauty and weave a garland that would bind forever formless death with endless form…This mausoleum stands still and unmoving in its place. Here on this dusty earth, it keeps death tenderly covered in a shroud of memory”.

(Please note artist’s materials are not permitted inside any Archaeological Survey of India monuments, so

for sketching etc we will take you to some nice view points in the nature park near the Taj Mahal and also

across the river from where you can see the Taj and the Agra Fort).

Later in the afternoon after an early Lunch, we drive straight to Delhi Airport where we have rooms for wash

and change near airport and then after a light snack, (included) transferred to airport around 1845 hrs for

the flight back home at 2145 hrs

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Hotels included: (These are our chosen hotels but cannot be guaranteed until booked)

City Hotel Room Category Meal Plan No of Nights

Ahmedabad Pride Hotel or Similar Deluxe Room B & B 01

Dasada Rann Riders AC Cottage All Meals 02

Bhuj Kutch Wilderness Kamp Deluxe Room B & D 05

Sayla Old Bell Guest House Ac Room All Meals 03

Ahmedabad House Of MG Grand Deluxe & Deluxe Room

B & D (Dinners are in local restaurants)

02

Jaipur Trident or Shahpura Deluxe Garden/Suite

B & D (Some Dinners are in local restaurants)

03

Chambal Chambal Safari Lodge Ac Cottage All Meals 01

Agra Radisson or similar Standard Room B & D 01

Tour price is Per person, twin share $4980 Single Supplement $1450 The above given cost includes

• Tour Escort from Australia (Ruth Flaherty) subject to 10 participants. If there are fewer we will need to alter the price a little.

• Accommodation in the above-mentioned hotels or similar

• Meals as mentioned at hotels or local restaurants

• Air-conditioned Vehicle for all transfers as per the above-mentioned itinerary

• Meals as mentioned in the itinerary

• Local guides for sightseeing in India

• Accompanying escort/ Indian tour manager for the trip

• Boat ride at Chambal River

• All entrances to the National Parks as per itinerary

• All entrances to the monuments as per the itinerary

Quote does not includes

• International airfare to/from India

• Meals not specified.

• Indian Visa Fee

• Camera fee wherever levied separately.

• Any increase in airfares by the airlines in future.

• Any increase in entrances and rail fares as per Government notifications in future.

• Any additional taxes levied by the Government of India on the tourism sector in future.

• Any expenses of personal nature such as hard/soft drinks, laundry, phone/fax calls, tips etc.

• Any item not mentioned in the quote includes section.

Cancellation fees Land sector

• Between 64-31 Days: 65 % of land cost

• Between 30-16 Days: 75 % of land cost

• Between 15-04 Days: 90 % of land cost

• Within 2 days-No show: 100% of land cost

Final payment due and close of booking: 12 October 2020