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ent Of

The Rqu"uemerets Fur The Degree Of

Maskt Of Atts

in the Depart~eat a%

women's Stu&s

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Acknowledgments

Nmgusr p a ~ g i e w n r t e d me tn the yrocesa of r e t i e~chng arrd writing this

therim In partkdm, 1 would Iki? to my senfor aupwmor Professor Majoris GrrffuI

Cshm for hm mhcd c a m o a t t i e q m c r f ~sr;trrc)ywdhmstraag

r m t n d to my project As my mcmd r&er, Profe~sw %codwe f=dm dm provided

him fi his b e sat3 effort iSdong

m my ~ d E @ b , way d w of the Women's

c s l r ~ . v e ! Wareea trr Women aQM ~ e g i e s aqqmrterf

d & e W & i n t E t e

rmemefy BefpEd. Fin;EJiiyT my nrfifiJ egpeciafly

%dm wQPhptd a O~BB up013 immi to Xt*"crirtti America

Table I a Groups, I~80. . ............................................

Tnble ic E ~ d o y m e n t m e b u t i o n : Mojor Manufnhtring Groups, 1988. ......................................................... . I 0 6

Table 2a Average Hourly W q e s in M ~ j o r Mumfernring ..................................................... C2wupsJ C m crdn f 08

Trrble 3. F e d E w h s f e in Major Mclnvfactrrring Goqs, by Age.. ...................................................... '11 0

Table Irr Eqloymeni D;stP;ib&*on in Clotking Indrurtry, 9981rrrrrr ................................................................... I l l

Table 5 Fd-Time vs Part-Tme Femrrle E m l p l o y m in the Clogking In ........................... 114

Tgble 6a Decline of .......................................

Td1e 7a e in All Clothing Sedots, 1 1 8 ................................................................ C~rzraL%dL.. - -

T ~ b l e 75. Male Employwfit in All Clothing Sectors, C~a~ilsda.~+ .*......*...................................................... 119

ing Trends vs. All Man ring and AII ..*

52ft S',... ............................................................. ~d

Ctotking vs. Othm Major M ring Groups @S+). .*....*... .. .........................*..*.....**.....*.*..........*.. 34

a m -

BW- BE& W * & m * m Flm

-%--a '3d- *--a- * shy r la rll 7*'c"F %p&W

x*x- r--*-.L e-a x. a--x - L ~ Z K U azTs a A - ~ ~ ; -*& f9- -- f TE.C t

€scess to fh? M c m

GaatKia;-U3. Fme Trade AgPesntent (ETA). For ce, prrtminent C d a u

cibflzre2 d a w i i i be inibe

&e m;B in ffrie vein ffWi2sm 1988). For the ma& part, tfte debate which

e$g-w&oaiB & m - h e *&beta can etiTectiveiy give corp

I. w w e f r n m

which c M d th& cqibalim is

fiwe ffrrw of csrpitsrl,

b f m Ilmahkg region-specific &f@wrs.

1Wd: 4). h F w d

e O ~ I F L ~ ~ L in dialecticziti t-, s trcvtlt a

S, --2- --,, -a- &LA-- LLL % _ _ A A- L- t l _ 1-:- a+n ; s a r a e r q p tmws- rttutJfm tv wuac - ZC~BB b~i l ;~f f HJ ~ ~ ~ ~ i f f g a n t e h tb i f . home

h s dim b hi@i&ed by bends in c l w production inNoPtfr America For exsmpfe, in

Mexico, wonrren cloatung wlli-l;ers in expwit pfocemiag zones (3EPZB) tend to be mi-

3iIiiBfe (p"mb_ez-Kefly* f 983: 10% T h o , 1987:

&e maj(M1iy of W M G ~ werkera in this am find generation

.* A R re Sunsei In The Candm Clothing

experienced redudom in mploymesrt over this period, thc &cline of the clottmg bd&y

v- gm?&dixly & z q ~ &q+@ by 29,7W Ldwtea IY% 992 (T&lee i.a,b,c,dj.

Hme, empfg)~ll& in Ail M e s remaiaa at a relatively ccwbrd level (-0+03W)

between 1988 1992, Yrhije ?xqloyme& in Af1 M- fiiffe by 15.5% md

cldhmg employanerd. &opa by 28.3%. ~ ~ o y m e r r t re&ctions in cfc&qj prnticulerly

excessive In li&t of &emis in -4ff IndugOie~! md At1 M over b a e fw yease.

In the late e w e s f d e employment in clotiung utmieh.)t declined mom

M e e . ?hi# is indicdve of latger trende in

aiace f i e emplqyment in el- inrregsed by 9.3% iretween 1980 8;nd

f 984, d m i q &e reemion of' the ea&y e@es, while f d e eaiptoyrnent declined by

o m f34e period Followkg &is, between 1984 and 1988,

p w st amodrsraPe m i e fW) white, in clotfihg,

it declia-ed s4 rramdm&e rate (-7.We). Fkdfy, between 19B rr;ad 1992, rehlpctiur~ in

kh&y f-22.8e/e) w m b& a @ c d y more severe

f -i4-mj ;ti &airno& k e h e e &e & c i k which to& p i s e in

&e m~ fa= year perid (Ckqft 2, T&!a f c,O ). CIsdy, prim ?o !94B, ?b c!*

endmd smkhe of' brief' da>- andproioqpd yes it waa

cmi-fe c m c e n ~ T k y C1 e !W m$oymr?gt oppo&ties for yomg wamen

8aurcas: 8

tatrC

an

glc2-923, 831-9

19,9

3--3

28

(Oth

er inc. Chlldren'.

Clo

thin

g in 1881)

Ths is mereiy m e i l f ~ i o n of the dispropo&onate eEecte of declining nartionai

ctabztrig q i ~ y m & cm worn= wfft;f3&m In Quebec. Cfeariy, xgioyrmd in &e cto6mg

fix a M a f pmpo&on of women"e jobs ie in thirr

puwince Fi9 . thm~c , tbe d a e c t m of &.is m h b y fhaf sre ezp&m~@ the ma&

b $ i t i r : re^^ $IS r-?~$ffoyam~ are c w e e d iD. Quebec.

COFIaUSION: A PREmTffRE SXR?SET F8R TIIIE f J t O m f ; INDUSTRY?

srr~rrrc of mmt Iosses in &e C a d i = claw incfustry ia &ti

wifi ine-ViMfy $qpe nard ken& in

this ae&w rrae a din& sion Despite c w i c k & I e evideace, it is

. . sectw cho'ded with tfie iri4r-o~ of

mA. connpslrismto era~pfoyerrjt of wme8, &is ia*

imsy fmf a•’ a i f i p Edfm the imxptim of &is trade

we- Given these

we-& em a stsgfe

6.y k s f w - sirrd pofoeed q&x- to &awing s i p of a

. Since NAFTA *&~h~ikitis t m fw c1- b-4e devised

s i ~ wdj. as F-E: provil~im 13L the FCA snd the NAFTA

W give

csrdlng, rrpimbg, w e m k hi#iw and finishtng produrn. Third, b q m purchase hbrics

to prodwe speclab& goad8 k m o q tfre b q m a;re cfoErrng ixmmhlxers, home

fianishing rmmd&mm and o&zr imm&&mm pfociucing goods for intfustrid me

fTqme, 1984.9)+ ntmfm; the textile incimdq servea a diverse group of md

nlry3ng &m cto&mg n t m to srrtornotive goo& p r h c m . fn some d o n e , a

t d f t : k*ves~&olib fmd sf---. hdm-s, &eks the

--I. nf n f s q p p&~t?jr~~r;I f iitCk*, textile pro&wrn my - 4 c e wholelade r- ------ -- buyer~ in inmtstry by producing chbcdfy-bseed industrid goods.

Al&@ it ntaq7 be a g ~ d that clothiog represents a Bubeector

of textile tire two industries oilen operate inNendentiy in a particuisr

d q s i ~ ' s t i e m h C & w i d ~ t o i b ~ , i i l c ~ • ’ a t d I e

production, c!othing ~~~ is fef&veZy specialized Zt involves m h g , sewing

and finiehiqg i t e m of c l o h g us* ti wide n q e of W c s . Unlike the textile tn<fttstry,

th end mark& fbr cfofhiog ipr-m c f t~~~ i sb of c ~ ~ ~ ~ f m e r e rrnd retailers rdm than

Sre s h

p ~ ~ d in a 1 Wwy it- d c - is alee pfevlntPnt in this industryz.

In eurn, p r o M . o n in th-e cfortriag m y be p e r f m d e i W oa a d l or

m are routinely relied q a Cowmely,

Iy gesrted to It--scale, high techfogy prdwtian (Crntedim

we-, l.3- 7,1992: 5).

B. --Ssctoraa Rd.&i~ls k CCsmadian a d hericm C I o w a d TeXmIadJLFMes

Inter-sedad refr$iuzs between cfotbg and textile M e s rpe m e h stronger in

the U.S. b tfioae in F& frosticdiy, the Cgnadian textile Sn- 6as fk more

inaere8ts in c m o n with &e American t d i e uuhustiy than the C d i m d o

~n cfotbg and t d f e ie&e~, md serves to

i) American Cf&% d Textile hdusfriee

The hwim ef d textife- in-es are hinfify dwde- b & c m

textile rely m h d e d- p & c m to serve s &eir primsry group

of c w . CoarvmeI~ Amriwa c l w -, be they THC8 or

enhanced acess to $IP Amencan nxrki7t From a C d t m penyectxve* hstvevrr, &;.

s~2;iasiisi,~c& of the Specid R e ~ r n z WH it;ts&mwd prt?qm-ts for go-aprr&~on brtzsiwt

&it Caz$j;an 4 dnnmca ccl&mg m&sies md the C d i m arrd M e x t c m cfothtrq

i n h q

D, &=bast

(he Ws pa;v ls im atx t h ~ 5 M T A su$tcb applies to M c l ~ & m g md ftmfr

io !hi. Tke Day M $ & i ~ k e w e s

d y owe

r MrtC f 4 ~ j 1 g & rS.- -"~=a~fiz--i-;g~~ q x s c u. -- t- n a r*"iEi ijap ti3 mM ffh~li wad i6

a te&k p z &

irE% T G C t O B , ' f f t t ~

c f a e was &01pd i6 a$%ed ~ & $ M * C Z ~ Y ~ h f e s of Orsgm &W qtma~rf t~ the

FTA Fr'rssrr &e p a d af li3w sf cf&xq 4 fexh1e e ~ p t t ~ t m in df tbmc m i o u ir

c*Yt;=im

k b w k fw t~xhfe gva& e q m d

ramie mxb, despite

be m+-af&fs to ttmfe qmm as $ 5 9 agj &ey fio E Z ~ W E ~ V B rn en their

h a ~ n ~ a f ~ ~ p q a h e ~ ~ k ~ ~ h ~ ~ k ~ d ~ ~ d

&ma;= Free

a- - q,, I st C%mghg n e r d o n ~i H o ~ i CIa&kg mder .ie 3Am.4

h ~ & s tm f;i^ 3; .tA.fTX v&:& :5 !O ~ i ~ l h s g t.&&? ;s &e new definiirurt

sf vh& c o w t t ~ ~ 4 a %d q p a d qxd TRt d e k t b o n q p e m ~n sectton ten of tEt?

cdl;2prer d - ~ a ~ e d to cj&~uag mirid texhle goo& )a t it EE: q p f ~c&le lo dI growrsiom Vihlcil

ref?? ro "waoi app-arei " hnazad t)-. the t,' 3 in the DdEa R ~ m d ~t.tgoftiStiom, ;tA?

% M T A defines wsoi ciothrq wi "wuvm q~parsi m chref wcreftt mm-masfe fibre

cr?nSraantq 36 pisrcm or morz by wti* af wsei" wd ' b i i e d ot cvxheie6 appaeE m

&ref wsq& af fibres c o m m q 23 p ~ c W ar w r e by w t& af ('bh-th

~ W 8 f i F j t i c *wed to d e h e &z l ~ ~ ~ m t t & c-8 of an iitm of cfrt&tng. Hence, ;tn

mtck sf c f o t f r s ~ $9 W l o ~ d i y rlais&ed as wad, for the plsrpisas af export, if woof

Ir_n 5fi~nc2, the -r\;,4,F7:F7:4 definitiw of won! clothing the

%e oBci;sli k w 4 c m rrrtiartafe

b e b 4 gmpoeiri h s c h a g z XI & DDhs Rotmd ww tfflLZ akce woof ts a cady fibe,

clo&mg co&aing a s d l e ~ c ! M of wml &odd be clmslfieb wosf.

'in the D d l a bwd , C& forcefitllj. objected to .the, r edeb t ion of wool clothtnl3,

pieas w3re ws~c~e9&1 @b& Amtxiwa Free T d e @m&: D ~ B B C ~ q ~ ~ i t e ;

Articfet XM: 3).? T%s

k - r e s k n g in dw t d i m case. >go& w m i y , &e new definithn of woo!

c20&* wli

tscon~mic w m m . T Z 1 q are hrqtrly sensitive fa corpowte a&, to a lesser degee,

I&sw rrnere& mss" ofim re!? on such &on for pen"omce and p~riu&on-reiared

;doeon ; U B & ds;i.;i=&p~ i;-e ti f ~ g e m the d c f t m of h;3;Ie

mgati&4810~. h d ! y , r~dustnce !#& =&rang h - e e d o d md dn-sectord dfimces

tmd to gan &urn a g r s r n m . Comemly, i m e e with tfifirnileb *sectoral asnd

&m-a;fz:$od ties ~ f f m d - under &E 8a-5 ~ ~ & ~ e . FoTHffi, fk&!y, T X C s profit

deslpif to improvi? dm~d &adr?."p fim also h i s m over d l e r

% m a stnce lftey benefit from

@vQ/* &BZ3 ETB& Gkkt!hv@~.

Gym &me Wm, c~nmetg pa%<&iom srf~lpted in the N , m A t e e Esre eat

and kxtile h d e in t f i r ~ ! x i - l a f d

&ricaer h i e s of Origin exist far cla$rmg trabr? thm fw textile trade. ki par4

gdZd texlifr? podtlczn

110-11:. ~ ~ ~ s ~ l i i i i ~ 1%; a ~ d c ~ i s n ' m on t ~ c ~ ~ o ~ l a a r i ~ ivrsim and

cns &opccn;- fm Cmrrdei. 3453. However, atis argumm ts hrgbty contenrrrrus

Quite conceivabty, the T e p C T a 8 f o m of hili Oade wif I be more conqriex t h e f tkety

cousltw-mg3ment i4 Cmdi~ff W- will xiof merely !ow j& in "smts&' tn&=eles

mdm No& American h e trade. Instead, with the in&oduction of the NRFSA, condttrorB

of work in these i&.tries wilt women a rwmlf af econorni~ hmo~l i&t0~ .4 fn Ileu OP'

a h p l y tnm&ming p o & d ? o n to Mexico, Cetrtabiw-owned co-mpruntas md TNCs wl&

h i l i t i e ~ t in Canzada, m q idhapt to h a a i z e their wages r~nd f&aua m$arrds with

h r ~ ~ ko&out the f re t trade area

A coqehemive &udy af Canadian women's M e of mh-y i&o &e idormad

es- wwld f J d y give eredace to &is c w t m - w e n t . Heme, aa miry of &is

~ort r~vpresmb a guitabfe c3me for ib&w reeearct Prea&fy, f&ni& rtchofm in

C d are voicistg ccmcm about womds declining d e e of pdcip&.rtioa in %!!-time

work d ri.;ising raies rrf p;31?lcip&fin in pm-he work (See for el~amgfe . M o w 1993; Cohen, 1993). In 1992, thm was an icmeaee of 69,000 p&-time jobs for women

~ O S S dl set.tors yet, over h e same period, fufIy 125,000 fewer %!!-time jobs were

avaifable to women 1983 : f ),5 It is far more daclrft ta it&f i& the degree

in %egble'Yom of work sad the w e of tulk women

p413"rm in saie I ; 3 f o d ecoaornqi &e b the t d l e m&me rtf these m d e ~ af wok

Howeverf i~ cio fbr exatpie, f m me bowizing, mtes of

urs l i sdaa are ;IfP~ppiq a d p o & c m now pubiicty acknowIedge W they ro&ineIy

homewdm amT, 199 1 : 7; f 99 2: Ag). These 4evelopepst;s certainly

Indicafive of eZle opeu nature of the accession clause is !be &sense of &n

l o join &e NAE1'A

w a a t q ;ni economic ~331r0mm con&c:\e t, mw? 'Ylrrxible" a d g ~ t c w ~ u m form ot

work 2"or it.omm 6 s elo&in;;i rn&fi@ z.s wsB zs rtbs ssreors of &P i"mar2r;tn eccmnr:,

Stne.= &ere ia rvzdez-se &r i ~ d k r i d tentionr)r i a Fowrrrg sn t'sarfa md smcc &-ere wr

flu^ ~FOWSIO;S :B S.PeFT.4 ii3 ve:$t3: f&m stm&~&t m zi yrvPri cam)., i."m&w

employem have is;;falt room $0 faww =ah& $0 whtev~z ecirflnrnic hmoxilzzt~oa S%;s

woun'd b e s dev&aim~ effied oc wijmea v;c-&nff trt the Cea~~smx c i o d q industry

S w u c e : Statxstzcs Canada, Unpublished Data, Reference Mk'3ZOIQ,

Table lc: Employment Distvibutien: Major Manufacturing Groups, X488

C in Thousands,

All Industries

FLl l Manufacturing

Frtd and Beverage

Textiles

Clothing

Printing and Publishing

Total Males F e m a 1 es I Females as % o f TGtdl

Source: Statistics Canada, Unpublished Data, Reference MK32rjtt3

Industries

Table 2a: Average Mcwr 3 y Wages ~n Major Manuf ac tur i ng hrcwpr;, Canada i9/hourA)

t '332. Note: I n 1380, t h e Food and Beverage Industries were grouped

together and the average w a g e was 87.65, Also, rn i9m, the category Knitting Milts existed in lieu of Primary Textiles. Hence, figures far these xndustries have been omitted.

TabXe 2b: Average Hourly Wages in M a j w Manufa+ tusa ng ~3roups As % of Average Mckurly Wages in A l l Hanufacturtng, Canada

ate

Female Female ail x af rota:

T a b l e 4 c : EmpPt3yment D r s t r i b u e i u n r n Clothing Industry, 1491 (Census Data

I

Tc&sl Male Female Female as % Of Total

t17,2EiO 2'3,425 87,840 74.3

42,375 12, 185 30,730 71 .C

36-61 I I I st i cs Canada, 93-3-6 s

Tabre 5: Full-T~me vs Part-T~me Female Empfnyment tn t h e Olothlng Industry i l n Thousandsl

Full-Time 137.2 f89.4 167.8 f i

- - -

Saurces: S t a t rstics Canada, Unpubl ished Data, MESZOIO and JN93(:110

Table ha: Decline af Female E m p l c y m e r t t in C:lcathing vs. All Hanufasturinq, Canada

kT1 Man. Employees

I41 f f e r e n c e

% Change

Clothing, A t f Ages

D l f f evenca

% Change

;lothing 4s % O f 3lI. Man,

Sources: Statistics Canada, Unpublished Data, MRSZOlO and K93022

A f f Man. Emp l ayees

I)i f f t lxence

% Change

Clothing, 4 1 1 Ages;

Difference

32-9

%

zcs Canada,

. . I

Canada, Unpublished Data K Y ~ , W ~ L ~ ~ I ~ ~ J C I

Table 7b: M a l e Employment i n A l l C l o t h i n g Sectors , Canada

ChiXdrenps

iource: Statistics Canada 32-923, 33-113, 93-326

O t h e r [ 7 ,775 118,735

300-B,3-B-2). Second, u.hen &e NAFTA chapter devoted to t e d t

Sassen-Koob, Smka wi& C. Benamou j1385f.'Wif;ltPmic Women in Gsnrlent and Efectronics hrhrstrres iil the New Yoi-k Metropolitan Area" New York City: Rewon Frtun&on

Standing Guy. (1992). ' ? :went Reexibifity: Labour and the Soctal Div~dend Solutjon." In h h e , Daniel (edj. Grtring On Track Montreal and Kingaron: McGiii-Queen's 'tlaivmity Prerrs.

. (1993). (Unpublished Data). Reference No. SN93010.

. (I 993). wq&Iished D&). Refefence No. 93-1 13.