shop naples ss14

Editor’s Letter

3

Emma Cheevers

Welcome to Naples

This SHOP guide will help you discover all

that Naples has to ofer, including the best

luxury department stores, boutiques and

concept stores, as well as recommendations

for restaurants, bars and special places to visit.

In this edition, we also take an in-depth look

at Italy’s twin loves, good food and womanly

fashion (see our feature on page 22), and

explore the reasons behind the ever-growing

success of the country’s leather accessories

makers (turn to page 28).

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Contributors

4

Nathalie Lees

Nathalie Lees created this season’s

cover illustration for SHOP Na-

ples. Her versatility has previously

seen her work on projects from

window displays to iPad apps for

a wide range of clients. Her love of

conceptualising ideas into simple,

elegant images makes her the per-

fect choice for this cover, inspired

by our feature about Italy’s wom-

anly fashion design on page 22.

Read more about our cover illustra-

tions at globalblue.com/covers.

Elle Blakeman

Elle Blakeman is editor-in-chief

of the Mayfair Magazine. She has

previously worked at Harper’s Ba-

zaar, InStyle and Marie Claire, and

specialises in luxury lifestyle and

travel features. She has a weakness

for lattes and Armani lipstick.

Ruairidh Pritchard

Ruairidh Pritchard, assistant pro-

duction editor at SHOP, studied

journalism in Glasgow, where

he was editor of his university’s

award-winning magazine. Ruair-

idh is a keen traveller and writes for

a variety of publications.

globalblue.com

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Shop Floor

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E DI TOR I A L

Editor-in-chiefEmma Cheevers

PU BL I SH I NG

PublisherJames Morris

Managing editorSally McIlhone

Cover illustratorNathalie Lees

ContributorElle Blakeman

Production editorCaterina Mazzolai

Assistant production editor Ruairidh Pritchard

Features editorStephen Doig

City guide and lifestyle editor Verity Hogan

Fashion and news editorDominique Fenn

Assistant fashion and market editorXimena Daneri

Assistant fashion and news editorsHannah Lewis, Isabella Redmond Styles

Fashion assistant

Gemma Latham

Editorial interns India Block, Sammy Ha

Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey

Copy editors Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew

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Assistant picture editors Kirsty Andrews, Sarah Beyts

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Artworking assistants Harveen Ghattaure, Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala, Shirley Lau

Online editor Kirsty Welsh

Online commercial editor Sally Ashley-Cound

Online editorial assistant Katie Ramsingh

Online assistantsMarina Nelson, Emily Scrivener

Commercial editor Justine Clifton

Commercial artworkerDan O’Brien

Chinese editor Yuan Fang

Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou

Chinese assistant editorHongying Xu

Chinese contributing editorQingya He

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Chinese intern Daniel Huang

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Key account managersMonica Affaticati, Benedetta Andreini, Caterina de Bernardo, Manuela Intili, Consuelo Murari,Alberta Reinach, Marco Savino

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Contents

8

Above: Valentino Haute Couture spring/summer 2008

p.22

Produc ts

10 Check Out

sHoP selects a standout piece

from Naples this season

12 Products

Key looks for the season,

from fashion and footwear

to jewellery and accessories

N e ws

16 Shop Window

one store not to be missed

in Naples

18 News

seasonal updates on shops,

services and new products

F e At u r e s

22 Cover Story:

Life Is Beautiful

Food and womanly fashion

are celebrated with equal

passion in Italy. elle

Blakeman looks at the

connection between the two

28 All In The Detail

superb craftsmanship

and impeccable design

make Italy’s fne leather

accessories labels a hit with

men around the world, says

ruairidh Pritchard

e x Pe r I e Nce

34 Stay In Style

sHoP’s guide to the world’s

most exclusive hotels

Gu I de

41 Maps and guides to the key

shopping areas of Naples,

Ischia, sorrento and capri

e sse N t I A l s

52 How To Shop Tax Free

the simple steps to saving

money on your shopping

t r A Nsl At IoNs

54 Русский

60 美文翻译

62 日本語翻訳

sou v e N I r

66 the essential item

to bring home

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S/S 2014 SHOP AT TRUSSARDI.COM

NAPOLI VIA DEI MILLE 32

10 | PRODUCTS

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 52

Check Out

jacket. Tru Trussardi was launched

in 2005 as the sister brand of

Trussardi, taking the century-old

label’s rich heritage and applying

a more laidback aesthetic. Ofering

elegant and polished urban and ca-

sual clothing, it is a great example

of an Italian heritage brand em-

bracing modernity. hl

Tru Trussardi shirt, €120,

Tru Trussardi, Via dei Mille 32,

80121 Naples, +39 081 416829,

trussardi.com

* for map go to page 42

TRU FLAIR

Giving an Italian edge to the clas-

sic Hawaiian-style shirt, this tai-

lored version by Tru Trussardi is a

refned take on one of the surprise

trends of the season. In a muted

monochrome base print accented

with pops of bright blue, the slim-

cut shirt is less casual than the tra-

ditional style and will add interest

when paired with a well-cut suit

12 | PRODUCTS


GO TO PRINT

Mix playful prints with

elegant accessories and

fnish with a spritz of

Bulgari’s latest fragrance

1. Mango jacket, €49.99,

Mango, Stazione Centrale,

Piazza Guiseppe Garibaldi, 80142 Naples,

+39 06 4778 6836, mango.com

2. Louis Vuitton sunglasses,

price on request, Louis Vuitton,

Via Camerelle 16A, 80073 Capri,

+39 081 837 6799, louisvuitton.com

3. Alberto Guardiani shoes, €559,

Alberto Guardiani, Via Camerelle 51,

80073 Capri, +39 081 837 6430,

albertoguardiani.com

4. Bulgari Omnia Indian Garnet eau

de toilette, €75 for 65ml, Ostuni,

Via Domenico Morelli 23-25,

80121 Naples, +39 081 764 3903,

bulgari.com

1 2

3

4

SHOP | 13

globalblue.com

5. Coccinelle handbag, €198,

Coccinelle, Via Chiaia 158,

80132 Naples, +39 081 418083,

coccinelle.com

6. Pinko skirt, €185,

Pinko, Via dei Mille 1-7,

80121 Naples, +39 081 497 6360,

pinko.it

7. Damiani earrings, €9,995,

Damiani, Via Gaetano Filangieri 15 bis,

80121 Naples, +39 081 405043,

damiani.com

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3. Hermès hat, price on request,

Hermès, Via Gaetano Filangieri 53-57,

80121 Naples, +39 081 420 7054,

hermes.com

4. Luisa Spagnoli dress, €340,

Luisa Spagnoli, Via Toledo 316,

80134 Naples, +39 081 419476,

luisaspagnoli.it

1. Miu Miu handbag, €1,200,

Miu Miu, Via Vittorio Emanuele 58-60,

80073 Capri, +39 081 8374 5453,

miumiu.com

2. Casadei shoes, €550,

Casadei, Via Camerelle 55,

80073 Capri, +39 081 838 8257,

casadei.com

TANGERINE

DREAM

Gold and navy

accessories add a

regal touch to juicy

orange this summer

1

2

3

4

Ischiascaglionegroup.com

exclusive bespoke service

16 | NEWS

Shop Window


architecture of the classic building

that houses it, the store is a charm-

ing mix of old and new, with ex-

posed brickwork sitting comfort-

ably alongside glass panelling and

minimalist furniture. With great

service guaranteed and soft leather

armchairs dotted about the shop,

visitors are guaranteed a quality

retail experience. hl

Hugo Boss,

Via dei Mille 41,

80121 Naples,

+39 081 401424,

hugoboss.com


BOSS IN NAPLES

Luxury lifestyle brand Hugo Boss

has just opened its frst store in

Naples, ofering stylish menswear

from three of its labels – Hugo,

Boss and Boss Green – as well as a

wide selection of suave accessories.

The sleek space refects the Ger-

man brand’s signature aesthetic

of modern design and understated

luxury, with clean lines and classic

materials such as glass and wood.

Embracing and reworking the

18 | NEWS


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BRIGHT IDEA

Inspiration comes from unex-

pected places. For Fred Prysquel,

who founded luxury swimwear

brand Vilebrequin in 1971, the

‘eureka’ moment came while he

was seated outside a café in sunny

Saint-Tropez. Contemplating the

colourful scene around him, he be-

gan to sketch a pair of swim shorts

on his tablecloth, and so the signa-

ture Vilebrequin design was born.

These shorts were soon a must-

have item for every stylish man,

and remain a signifer of taste to

this day. Visit the Capri boutique

to fnd row upon row of these clas-

sic, colourful creations. hl

Vilebrequin,

Via Camerelle 8,

80073 Capri,

+39 081 838 9468,

vilebrequin.com


GOLDEN DREAMS

Sicily has provided rich inspira-

tion for Dolce & Gabbana in the

past – not surprising, perhaps, giv-

en that Domenico Dolce was born

there – and this season the label has

looked to the island’s ancient histo-

ry, in particular its coins. Whether

dangling from earrings or splashed

across the design duo’s trademark

sultry dresses, the gold discs stole

the show on the catwalk. Kitsch

yet glamorous, the eye-catching

collection shows once again that

Dolce & Gabbana can always

fnd something fresh and exciting

to say. hl

Dolce & Gabbana,

Via Camerelle 39-41,

80073 Capri,

+39 081 837 7154,

dolcegabbana.com


SHOP | 19

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SHE’S SO MODERN

Max Mara’s latest collection has

a decidedly modernist look com-

pared with the neutral tones and

understated sophistication for

which it has become known. The

trademark sleek and simple styles

remain, but the use of sheer and

shimmery fabrics, metallics and

vivid colour blocking in electric

blue, tangerine and violet adds an

exciting edge. Satin slips, slinky

separates and minimalist tailored

jackets provide a fresh approach

to luxury layering, making Max

Mara our go-to brand for unequiv-

ocal city-chic style this summer. gl

Max Mara,

Corso Italia 102-104,

80067 Sorrento,

+39 081 878 2785, maxmara.com


FOREVER ARMANI

From a collection that explores

every shade of blue from navy to

pastel, what actually caught our

eye from Giorgio Armani’s spring/

summer menswear ofering was the

small selection of pieces in beauti-

ful pink and peach tones. Chi-

nos and T-shirts in suave chalky

shades are paired with lightweight

tailored jackets to create a sleek

and refreshing alternative to sum-

mer suiting. Additional interest is

found in the collection’s details – a

subtle texture on the chinos, a two-

toned lapel, the variety of necklines

– marking an exemplary evolution

of Armani’s eternally sophisticated

Italian style. gl

Emporio Armani, Piazza dei

Martiri 61-62, 80121 Naples,

+39 081 425816, armani.com


20 | NEWS


ODE TO GENIUS

Montblanc’s limited-edition

Great Characters series, a collec-

tion of beautifully crafted writing

instruments named after iconic

fgures of the 20th century, was

unveiled in 2009. For its latest

addition to the range, however,

Montblanc has headed further

back in time to pay tribute to one of

the most celebrated artistic fgures

of the Italian Renaissance. The

Great Characters Limited Edition

Leonardo fountain pen and roller-

ball pen draw inspiration from the

inventions of Leonardo da Vinci,

with several clever references to his

pioneering ideas. The handcrafted

solid 750 gold and rhodium-plated

nib is engraved with a bat’s wing,

which inspired da Vinci’s design

for a fying machine; the red gold-

plated gear at the end of the clip

evokes the cogwheels that featured

so often in the Italian genius’s

work; and the Montblanc emblem

concealed within the pen’s cap,

which is only visible in the mir-

ror inside the cap top, is inspired

by da Vinci’s habit of writing his

notes backwards. rp

Montblanc,

Via Gaetano Filangieri 38,

80121 Naples, +39 081 400057,

montblanc.com


PRETTY CHIC

Taking inspiration from fairy

tales, ballerinas and botanicals,

Red Valentino presents a captivat-

ing collection for spring/summer.

The Valentino difusion line, cre-

ated for the ‘romantic eccentric

dresser’, has femininity at its heart,

as seen in its bows, rufes and lay-

ered tutu skirts. The inclusion of

some clean tailoring and a demure

colour palette contributes an el-

egant element, with a retro twist in

the form of 1950s silhouettes and

Peter Pan collars. Imagine attire

suitable for a modern-day debu-

tante and you’ll see the allure of

this delightful collection. gl

Red Valentino,

Corso Vittoria Colonna 180,

80077 Ischia,

+39 081 991606,

redvalentino.com


SHOP | 23

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Opposite: Valentino Haute Couture spring/summer 2008

Italians are frm believers in the

concept that one cannot think well,

love well or sleep well if one hasn’t

eaten well, which is probably why

the ‘Eat’ segment of the recent Julia

Roberts flm Eat, Pray, Love was

set in Rome and in Naples, a city

fercely proud of its reputation for

peerless pizzas and other speciali-

ties made using the best local ingre-

dients that nature can provide.

Respect is something that’s also

ofered to the women of Italy, who

are also celebrated for their natural

appeal. Not for them the hours

of honing and starving into a set

ideal – as Julia Roberts’ character

so wittily demonstrates in Eat,

Food and sumptuous womanly fashion are celebrated with equal

passion in Italy. Elle Blakeman

looks at the connection between the country’s twin loves

LIFE

IS

BEAUTIFUL

‘Everything you see, I owe to spa-

ghetti,’ Sophia Loren – Italy’s unof-

fcial queen of style – once famously

said. It encapsulates perfectly the

fact that the Italian spirit has never

been one for half measures. This

is a country known for its passion –

for food, for art, for architecture,

for passion itself – and this sense

of exuberance afects everything.

The unwavering desire to live

la dolce vita, or the good life, can

be most easily be seen in the Italian

approach to food, for Italians will

talk about food in a way that other

nations reserve for discussing poli-

tics or sport: it is respected, dis-

sected and fercely argued over.

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24 | FEATURES

Above: Gucci autumn/winter 2013/14

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Pray, Love as she happily struggles

to ft into her jeans after indulging

in Italian delights – unlike many

of their counterparts elsewhere

in the world; to be adored, an Ital-

ian woman need only to worry

about her attitude.

‘All women are sensual. We love

them all,’ says Stefano Gabbana,

one half of Italian label Dolce

& Gabbana. ‘It’s about attitude,’

he adds, reminding us that little

is less seductive than a woman who

refuses to eat, to smile and to enjoy

life. For almost three decades,

Gabbana has been celebrating the

female form with partner Domeni-

co Dolce, yet both have maintained

since the very beginning that noth-

ing is as appealing as a black bra.

It’s a theme that can be seen consis-

tently across their collections from

1985 to the spring/summer 2014

show, where the classic bustier and

black lace slip aesthetic that has be-

come a signature for the duo makes

an appearance. However, woe be-

tide anyone who thinks that it’s all

SHOP | 25

about being decorative: one of the

great things about Italian fashion

is that it dresses women, not girls.

The ability to admire and em-

power real women is a characteris-

tic of many of Italy’s most

celebrated designers: the scarlet,

foor-length creations by Valentino,

the powerful, mess-with-me-at-

your-peril power jackets and

gowns at Gucci, and the perfectly

tailored suits of Armani all share

a general approach of ‘less is more’

when it comes to fuss.

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The ability to

admire real women

is a feature of many

of Italy’s most

celebrated designers

Above (from lef): dolce and Gabbana; Gucci (both spring/summer 2014)

26 | FEATURES

Above: Anita Ekberg in La Dolce Vita, 1960

Italian fashion, like its beloved

cuisine, is characterised by its

strength in simplicity; like the pasta

dish made all the better for contain-

ing just a handful of exquisite fresh

ingredients, the Little Black Dress

that hugs and pulls in all the right

places needs nothing more to com-

plete it. The silhouette is key: ‘The

hardest thing in fashion is not

to be known for a logo, but

to be known for a silhouette,’ agrees

Giambattista Valli. Italian design-

ers are lucky enough to be im-

mersed in an artisanal culture

of fne craftsmanship, with tech-

niques and skills passed down

through the generations. When

combined with a national adoration

of the female shape, these skills in-

form their designs from the outset.

As Sophia Loren once noted,

‘A woman’s dress should be like

a barbed-wire fence: serving its

purpose without obstructing the

view’; for Italians, it’s about the

woman frst, the dress second.

The culture outside of fashion

supports this, with the nation’s most

iconic flms boasting voluptuous

stars who would bring many a man

to his knees: think of the glorious

Anita Ekberg swimming in the

Trevi fountain in La Dolce Vita.

And who could forget the feminine

fgure of Sophia Loren in El Cid be-

guiling the unwilling Charlton Hes-

ton into doing her bidding.

‘The elegance of Italian simplic-

ity runs through their style in ev-

erything they do and every aesthet-

ic they hold dear,’ agrees fashion

expert and stylist Sarah Hogan.

‘You cannot beat a beautiful, curvy

Italian woman such as Monica Bel-

lucci in a little black Dolce & Gab-

bana dress – it’s simply the

perfect silhouette.’

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6056 Above: Cellerini’s cuting workshop

Superb craftsmanship coupled with impeccable design: no wonder Italy’s fne leather accessories labels are proving such a hit with men around the world, says Ruairidh Pritchard

ALL IN THE DETAIL

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The Made in Italy label has been

synonymous with exceptional

quality for centuries. Those in the

know have always valued the tra-

ditional skills of the country’s ar-

tisans who today, more than ever,

are turning their talents to produc-

ing the fnest leather accessories

for men. From shoes to hats, bags

to belts and wallets to luggage, Ital-

ian handcrafted leather goods are

reaching new heights of luxury.

One of Italy’s success stories

is Cellerini. Started by Silvano

Cellerini in the early 1950s, the

label began with just one sewing

SHOP | 31

Above (clockwise from top lef): Cellerini travel bags and men’s briefcase; Alessandra Cellerini in the brand’s workshop

machine and a hide, bought with

a small inheritance. A decade later

Cellerini and his wife had expand-

ed the business, creating leather

handbags and luggage for some of

the most afuent Florentine fami-

lies of the time.

Now the label is headed up by

the founder’s daughter Alessandra,

who is keen to ensure that her par-

ents’ dedication to peerless qual-

ity endures. Many of the working

practices that went into creating

Cellerini’s frst bag are still fol-

lowed: all leather cutting is done

entirely by hand by the label’s ex-

perienced craftspeople. The pieces

are then painstakingly trimmed by

hand before being sewn together, a

process which has been assisted by

the advancements in manufactur-

ing technology.

Similarly, Cellerini continues

to provide the level of personalisa-

tion that it ofered more than half

a century ago. Thanks to a vast

choice of calfskins, linings, threads

and hardware, customers can have

Cellerini create their very own be-

spoke Italian leather masterpiece.

Another family-owned atelier

with a claim to the title of ‘Italy’s

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32 | FEATURES

Above (from top): both Santoni spring/summer 2014; Giuseppe Santoni photographed at Santoni’s Milan store with actors Pierfrancesco Favino, Juliete Binoche and Beppe Fiorello

fnest’ is Santoni, which has been

creating some of the best hand-

made shoes to come out of Milan

since it was set up in 1975 by An-

drea Santoni. Over the decades,

the label – now helmed by a sec-

ond generation of Santonis – has

expanded to become one of the

country’s largest home-grown

shoemakers, while keeping its key

values of quality, passion for de-

tail and working exclusively by

hand intact.

The brand’s two key pillars –

innovation and tradition – still pro-

vide a solid foundation for its work.

These days Santoni combines tra-

ditional expert hand craftsman-

ship with pioneering production

techniques to ensure that every

item of footwear fts as perfectly as

possible, whether it’s a brogue or a

Chelsea boot.

A great deal of efort goes into

sourcing the most sought-after

hides and fabrics to ensure that

each style is comfortable, practical

and durable as well as stylish. No-

where is this more evident than in

the brand’s latest Limited Edition

Collection, whose designs and ma-

terials are overseen by Andrea San-

toni himself. From the frst cut of

the carefully selected leather to the

fnal fre-branding with the Santo-

ni mark, each step is done by hand,

and there is no time limit for the

creation of a single pair of shoes.

Considering that one leather-

tinting phase can require over 15

applications of colour, this proves

that craftsmanship remains at the

forefront of Santoni’s production.

However, it isn’t just new Ital-

ian products that are fnding fa-

vour with well-heeled men; vintage

SHOP | 33

Above: Santoni crafsmanship

Italian leather

accessories are

long-lasting

style investments

and restored antique leather goods

are becoming more popular among

those looking to invest in some

beautiful Italian leather. Bernar-

dini in Milan is a treasure trove of

lovingly restored and rare antique

pieces. The store was founded by

Max Bernardini in 1996, who was

inspired by his father’s work in im-

porting fne antiques for some of

Italy’s wealthiest families.

The inviting emporium, which

even has its own full-time bartend-

er, is home to an eclectic collection

of rare and expertly sourced goods,

ranging from vintage travel trunks,

suitcases and vanity boxes from the

likes of Prada and Gucci, many of

them made to order for wealthy

European explorers during expedi-

tions to Africa in the early 20th cen-

tury. The diversity and desirability

of the stock is as clear an illustration

as any of Italy’s long history of mak-

ing high-quality leather goods.

For the modern man, it’s clear

that Italian leather accessories are

not only long-lasting investments

in style, but also ofer an intrigu-

ing insight into the rich tradition

of expert craftsmanship and

made-to-measure personalisation

that have long been the signature

of a truly well-dressed man and

a sign of Italian dedication to

true luxury

cellerini.it,

santonishoes.com,

bernardinimilano.it

globalblue.com

34 | EXPER IENCE

stay in style

The world’s fnest hotels occupy sought-after locations,

boast striking interior designs and ofer a wide range of

amenities. SHOP shares its pick of the very best

national artists and can be admired

throughout the hotel. Modern de-

signer furnishings and pop art

inspired décor add to the rooms’

appeal, while the on-site restau-

rant, Fru K, uses fresh Norwegian

produce to impressive efect.

The Thief,

Landgangen 1,

0252 Oslo,

+47 2400 4000,

thethief.com

The Thief

Art lovers will fnd much to engage

their senses at the eclectic Thief

hotel. Set in one of Oslo’s most

creative districts, the hotel is close

to the city’s fnest restaurants, bars

and art galleries, while also ofer-

ing its own impressive collection

of contemporary art. Curated

by Sune Nordgren, this includes

pieces from Norwegian and inter-

SHOP | 35

while staf are on hand 24 hours

a day to cater to your every need.

The hotel’s amenities are equally

alluring; start your day with a full

Irish breakfast at the Wilde restau-

rant or enjoy afternoon tea in the

gallery, surrounded by Irish works

of art.

The Westbury Hotel,

Grafton Street, Dublin 2,

+353 (0)1 679 1122,

doylecollection.com

The WesTbury hoTel

The Westbury Hotel boasts a cen-

tral location, within walking dis-

tance of Dublin’s main attractions,

luxurious facilities and exceptional

service. Every room is modern and

well appointed, ofering everything

from custom-designed furnishings

to premium bathroom products,

PH

OT

O:

JOs

Hu

a s

T J

OH

n

FASHION WEEKS

& STREET STYLE

Follow us online for the latest from

Europe’s fashion weeks; we report

direct from the shows with street-style

galleries, show round-ups and insider

shopping guides.

INTERACTIVE MAPS

Use our interactive maps to get up-to-

date information about which countries

ofer Tax Free Shopping and where to

fnd the best stores.

BUYING GUIDES

Make a great investment in the right luxury

piece using our in-depth expert buying guides.

DESTINATION GUIDES

Don’t waste a minute on your travels

– use our dedicated destination

and product guides. They take you

through the most exclusive local

shopping areas, whether you’re

looking for leather, jewellery or

the best womenswear.

DAILY SHOPPING

NEWS

We’ve got the latest information on

destination shopping, whether it’s

the new season’s collections, store

openings or limited-edition pieces.

WIN MONTHLY

COMPETITIONS

We’ve got great giveaways for

our readers to win, from the latest

accessories and shopping vouchers

to luxury hotel stays.

PH

OTO

S (L

EF

T):

© M

ELA

NIE

GA

LEA

/TH

ES

TR

EE

TM

US

E.IT

ENGLISH | РУССКИЙ | 中文

The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com

EXPER IENCE | 37

globalblue.com

fuses traditional French cooking

methods with contemporary in-

gredients, textures and favours,

while those hosting a special event

are sure to be impressed by the

ballroom. Don’t miss the Guerlain

spa with its menu of soothing body,

face and massage treatments,

indoor pool and state-of-the-art

exercise equipment.

Waldorf Astoria Berlin,

Hardenbergstrasse 28,

10623 Berlin,

+49 (0)30 814 0000,

waldorfastoria3.hilton.com

Waldorf

astoria

Berlin

The newly opened Waldorf Asto-

ria Berlin strikes the perfect bal-

ance between timeless elegance

and modern amenities. Its loca-

tion in the heart of West Berlin is

within walking distance of a host

of attractions, and the hotel itself

ofers myriad facilities. Visitors to

Les Solistes, the hotel’s restaurant,

will delight in the way its menu

PH

OT

O: Q

ua

bb

e+

Te

ss

ma

nn

Save money when you shop at over 270,000 stores worldwide with Global BlueTax Free Shopping.

www.globalblue.com

The world’s best shopping streets, tax free

Guide

GUIDE | 41

ILL

US

TR

AT

ION

: LY

ND

ON

HAY

ES

globalblue.com

Navigating an unfamiliar region is never easy.

Global Blue ofers you the most comprehensive

shopping maps, helping you fnd your way around

Naples and its islands with useful hints and insider

information about what to see, do and buy. For

more detailed guides, check out globalblue.com

or pick up one of our bespoke shopping maps

from your concierge.

42 | GUIDE

Naples

Via Santa Caterina, Via Calabritto

& Piazza dei Martiri

Via Gaetano Filangieri

VIC

O S

. MA

RIA

A C

AP

PE

LL

A V

EC

CH

IAVIA

CA

LA

BR

ITT

O

VIA ALABARDIERI

VIA

DO

ME

NIC

O M

OR

EL

LI

VIA VANNEL LA GAETANI

VIA

SA

NT

A C

AT

ER

INA

MARIO VALENTINO ●

PRADA UOMO ●

BRUNO & PISANO ●

PRADA DONNA ●

GUCCI ●

TOD'S ●

BOTTEGA VENETA ●

BRUNO &

● PISANO OROLOGI

● FINAMORE

● ILEANA DELLA CORTE

● RAMIREZ COLLECTION

● NOVELLI

● CARAMANNA

● SARLI

● LUCIA DE VINCENZO

● GALIANO

● SCHETTINI

● ELITE GIOIELLI

● GERRY WEBER

GIOIELLI VIGNERI ●

CALABRITTO ●

SALVATORE SPATARELLA ●E. MARINELLA ●

HARMONT & BLAINE ●

LIU JO ●

ZEITHOUSE ●

NUVOLA ●

MONTEMURRO ●

ROBERTA BIAGI ●

NINO DE NICOLA ●

● LUIGI DE SIMONE

● OLYMPUS

● EDDY MONETTI

● MAFFEI

● ALBANO

● L'ORAFO

● MELLUSO

● MAISON D'ART

● ERNESTO ESPOSITO

● TWIN-SET

● MAXI HO OUTLETEMPORIO ARMANI ● ● LA FELTRINELLI

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO UOMO ●

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO DONNA ●

CESARE PACIOTTI ●

FRANCESCA FERRANTE ●

Piazza

Dei Martiri

PAOLO

● FIORILLO ● E. MELE

VIA

CH

IAIA

R AMPE BR AN C ACCIO

VIA ALABARDIERI

VIA VITTORIO IMBRIAN

I

VIA DEI MILLE VIAGA

ETAN

OFIL

AN

GIE

RI

● F

AY

HO

GA

N

● P

OLT

RO

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FR

AU

● M

ON

TB

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NC

● B

ULG

AR

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● V

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RM

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● D

O D

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● S

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TOZ

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● P

ELLIC

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CO

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● B

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PPA

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● L

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TIN

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LUC

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DA

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TIC

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D'A

BU

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O ●

VIT

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NO

CE

RIN

O ●

● T

RU

TR

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SA

RD

I

● B

UR

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● A

MIN

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CC

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● F

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● L

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TT

I ●

HU

GO

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SS

●

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UN

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CU

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LI ●

FR

AT

EL

LI R

OS

SE

TT

I ●

RU

CO

LIN

E ●

FAL

CO

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AN

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CC

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●

Featured In This Issue

Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

P.19

P.10

P.16

P.20

globalblue.com

SHOP | 43

Il RIstoRan- tIno dell’ avvocato

chef Rafaele cardillo is known

for adding his own creative

touches to traditional neapolitan

cuisine. the region is renowned

for its high-quality ingredients

and cardillo uses them to great

efect: think bluefn tuna served

with anchovies and fennel; and

linguine topped with sea algae

and dill-marinated shrimps.

anna Matuozzo caMIceRIa

Highlighting the heritage tai-

loring principles that have long

distinguished neapolitan style,

anna Matuozzo camiceria spe-

cialises in bespoke shirt making.

Quality is paramount in the ma-

terials used and in the standard

of craftsmanship displayed,

with a range that includes not

just shirts but polo shirts, jack-

ets and ties. every shirt is made

to measure and is cut and sewn

by hand, resulting in pieces

that are sure to become endur-

ing wardrobe staples. there are

styles available for both men

and women, ofered alongside

a range of accessories including

silk ties, characterful cufinks

and matching pyjama sets.

Anna Matuozzo Camiceria,

viale Gramsci 26,

80122 naples, +39 081 663874,

annamatuozzo.it

Il Ristorantino

dell’Avvocato,

via san lucia 115-117,

80132 naples,

+39 081 032 0047,

ilristorantinodellavvocato.it

44 | GUIDE

SHOP Recommendation Featured In This Issue


Via Alfredo de Luca

VIA CASCIA

RO

VIA

DE

LLE TE

RM

E

VIA ROM

A

VIA CASCIARO

IITR AVERSA A VIA MORGIONI

VIA

ALF

RE

DO

DE LU

CA

VIA

D

EL

LE

TE

RM

E

VIA ROMA COR

SO VITTO

RIA COLO

NN

A

● S

CAGLIO

NE

● C

AM

OM

ILLA

Point RU

IL CASTELLO D’ARAGONA

Scaglione

Family company Scaglione

frst opened in ischia in 1934

and since then has earned a

reputation for stocking the

world’s fnest designer fash-

ion brands alongside its own

label. The brand’s historic

boutique spans two foors.

Downstairs is a bridegroom

atelier and made-to-measure

tailoring station, while the

top foor plays host to an ex-

tensive range of accessories.

expect pieces by ermene-

gildo Zegna, Pal Zileri, Kiton

and Hugo Boss to feature.

Scaglione,

Via alfredo de luca 111,

80077 ischia,

+39 081 991329,

scaglionegroup.com

Ischia

Place Of Interest

Global Blue Refund Ofce

SHOP | 45

Corso Vittoria Colonna

V

IA E

NE

A

VIA

EM

AN

UE

LE

GIA

NT

UR

CO

VIA REGINA ELENA

VIA

AL

FR

ED

O D

E L

UC

A

VIA

BA

TT

IST

ES

SA

V

IA E

DG

AR

DO

CO

RT

ES

E

V

IA F

ER

RA

NT

E D

’AV

AL

OS

V

IA R

EM

IGIA

GIA

NT

UR

CO

VIA VINCENZO TELESE

CORSO V ITTORIA COLONNA

CO

RS

O V

IT

TO

RIA COLONNA

● I

L M

ER

CA

NT

E

● P

ISO

LO●

GR

IFO

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RO

VE

LLI

●

CA

MA

LU’

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CA

GLI

ON

E

● C

IAR

AV

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AZ

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PE

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GIO

IELLE

RIA

LA

PE

RLA

● P

AU

L &

SH

AR

K D

ON

NA

● L

A C

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ON

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● G

LAM

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PAU

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BR

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IL C

AP

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SIN

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T & B

LAIN

E ●O

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ICA

PIP

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●

GIO

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RIA

DE

L P

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T●LI

U J

O ●

JUD

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MA

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●

CA

RLO

LA

MB

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D V

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●

SW

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VE

TTO

RI ●

PH

ILO

SO

PH

Y ●

● BABILONIA

● PHILOSOPHY

● IL MUGHETTO

BO

TTIG

LIER

I ●

GLEN

FIELD

●

carlo lamBiTelli

carlo lambitelli’s boutiques

showcase the fnest ‘made in

italy’ products, ofering cloth-

ing and accessories by some of

the country’s best designers,

including Dondup and aspesi.

Carlo Lambitelli,

corso Vittoria colonna 137

& 160, 80077 ischia,

+39 081 982486,

carlolambitelli.it

P.20

PH

OT

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Ry

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Above: Giardini La mortella

46 | GUIDE

Featured In This Issue


Sorrento

Corso Italia

VIA SAN PAOLO

VIA

AN

TO

NIO

SE

RS

AL

E

VIA

DE

GL

IA

RC

HI

CORSO ITALIA

CORSO ITALIA

VIA SAN FRA NCESCO

LU

IGI D

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AIO

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PA

DR

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LD

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● H

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& B

LA

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Il ME

LO

GR

AN

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Via San Cesareo & Via Enrico Caruso

CORSO ITALIA

CORSO ITALIA

VIAENRICOCARUSO

LUIGIDEMAIO

LUIGIDEMAIO

PADREREGINALDOGIULIANI

VIASAN

CESARE

O

VIADEGLIARCHI

GARGIULO

JANNUZZI ●

CO

IN ●

SO

RR

EN

TO

PR

OF

UM

I ●

GA

RO

FA

LO

RA

FF

AE

LL

INA

●

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LO

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S

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HO

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S ●

P.1

9

SHOP | 47

PH

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XX

XX

XX

VIA DEGLI ARANCI

VIA

EN

RIC

OC

AR

US

O

VIA

CORREALE

VIA

MA

RZ

IAL

E

CORSO ITALIA

CORSO ITALIA

CO

IN C

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A ●

PIS

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PO

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Photo

PR

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●

Bellora

Striking the perfect balance be-

tween tradition and creativity,

the linen collections at Bellora

are sure to have widespread ap-

peal. Simplicity and elegance

defne the range.

Bellora,

Piazza San antonino 7,

80067 Sorrento,

+39 081 807 5684,

bellora.it PH

OT

O: L

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OP

PO

La

FO

TO

GR

aF

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Bar

P.6

6

SHOP Recommendation Featured In This Issue


48 | GUIDE

Capri

Via Roma

VIA

LOPA

LA ZZO

VIA

VA

LE

NT

INO

VIA

CA

ST

ELLO

VIA DALMAZIO BIRAGO

VI A MARINA G R ANDE

VIA M A RINA GR ANDE

VIA ROMA

VIA ROMA

VIA ROMA

V IAR

O

MA

LA

PIA

ZZ

ET

TA

●

● D

ON

AL

FO

NS

O

● L

A F

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EN

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EA

GU

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AS

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RP

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E

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ER

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CU

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AD

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4

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AG

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NF

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AN

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AN

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TE

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LO

RA

● N

OS

TA

LG

IE

● L

A B

AG

AT

TE

LL

A

● F

LA

IR

Masterpiece

the extensive selection of con-

temporary and classic Murano

glass stocked at Masterpiece is

sure to appeal to both locals and

visitors alike. the range of items

on ofer is vast, with many piec-

es handmade by artisan crafts-

men. Be sure to admire the

store’s complementary range of

glass and silver costume jew-

ellery, and take advantage of

Masterpiece’s attentive service

standards to ensure you leave

with the perfect souvenir.

Masterpiece,

Via roma 31-33, 80073 capri,

+39 081 837 0785

globalblue.com

SHOP | 49

Via Camerelle

VIA

TR

AG

AR

A

VIA

PAD

RE

REG

INALDO G

IULIA

NI

VIA

SOPR

AM

ON

TEVIA LE BOTTEGHEVIA F UORLOVADO VIA CROCE

VIA CAMPO DI TESTE

VIA CA MERELLE

VIA CAMERELLEVIA

IGN

AZ

IOC

ER

IO

DE

LL

A C

IAN

A ●

CA

PR

I & C

AP

RI ●

DS

QU

AR

ED

2 ●

AS

PE

SI ●

WH

ITE

●

ER

ES

●

FIS

ICO

●

EM

ILIO

PU

CC

I ●

MO

DA

CA

PR

ES

E ●

SU

D ●

MIS

SO

NI ●

HA

RM

ON

T &

BL

AIN

E JU

NIO

R ●

BA

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La capannina

the traditional cuisine and in-

viting interior of popular capri

eatery La capannina have at-

tracted an illustrious clientele

since the restaurant opened in

1931. the local luminaries and

international screen stars it has

welcomed over the years have

delighted in delicacies such as

ravioli alla caprese (with fresh

ricotta and marjoram) and

stufed squid.

La Capannina,

Via Le Botteghe 12,

80073 capri,

+39 081 837 0732,

capanninacapri.com

P.18

P.18

50 | GUIDE


Piazzetta

Via Vittorio Emanuele III

VIA S

ANFRA

NCESCO

VIAROMA

VIAROMA

Piazzeta

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AN

VIACAMER

ELLE

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VIAROMA

VIAVITTORIOEMANUELEIII

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AMINA RUBINACCI ●

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● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO DONNA

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● LA CAPRESE

● BENETTON

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● CHANTECLER

● BOUTIQUE ERSILIA

● ZILLI

Piazzeta

Grotta azzurra

Grotta azzurra, or the Blue

Grotto, is Capri’s most famous

natural wonder. Visitors can

hire one of the wooden rowing

boats moored in the bay out-

side the sea cave and sit back

while their boatman navigates

the narrow entrance to view

the spectacle up close. Flicker-

ing blue and silver lights fll the

space, for the sea water absorbs

all the red tones of the sunlight

with intense results. Visit at

midday to see the efect at its

most spectacular.

Grotta Azzurra, 80073 Capri

globalblue.com

SHOP | 51

Designer Outlet La Reggia

PErFECt DaY

How to GEt tHErE

By car

take the a1 motorway from

rome to Naples. From the

Caserta Sud-Marcianise

exit, follow the outlet signs;

from the Pomigliano-Villa

Literno exit, follow the signs

to Caivano; or from the

Caserta Nord exit, follow

the signs to Marcianise.

By train

take the Naples-Cassino-

rome line to Caserta railway

station. a bus service runs

from the station to the outlet

every 30 minutes.

By shuttle bus

the La reggia shuttle bus

runs every day from Naples

city centre. the bus departs

from Piazza Municipio at

10am and 3.30pm and leaves

the outlet at 2pm and 7pm.

Designer Outlet

La Reggia,

Strada Provinciale 336

Sannitica, 81025 Marcianise,

+39 0823 510244,

mcarthurglen.com

Opening times

Monday-Sunday:

10am-9pm

10am

Start your day admiring the

elegant and easy-to-wear

wool collections showcased

at Amina Rubinacci.

12pm

Enjoy a quick cofee break

at Café Luisi.

3pm

Visit Enrico Coveri

to discover the label’s

unconventional collection.

7pm

End your day by purchasing

the perfect fnishing touch

from Segue’s bag range.

52

When you shop the world, shop tax free

/ 6158

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globalblue.com

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Refund Ofces

Refund ofce details:

Milan Malpensa Airport

Check in Area2nd Floor

Area ASchengen1st Floor

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To Gates B

To Gate Area D To Gate

B-C-D

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Security ControlTerminal 3

to Gate G

Terminal 5

Terminal 1

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Gate H1

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Key

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i Information Stairs

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Alisud Departures, Check-In

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Ischia

Point Ru tour operator,

Via Alfredo de Luca 101

globalblue.com

Translations

54

22: Life Is Beautiful

Жизнь прекрасна

РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД

Элли Блейкман рассказывает, как связаны две самые большие страсти всех итальянцев – еда и красивая одежда

«Всем, что вы видите, я обязана спагетти», - сказала однажды королева итальянского стиля Софи Лорен. И это высказывание прекрасно характеризует истинно итальянскую

бескомпромиссность. В Италии царит страсть: еда, искусство, архитектура, даже страсть к самой страсти – и этот взрыв чувств влияет буквально на все.

Непреодолимое желание жить в стиле la dolce vita ярче всего проявляется в отношении к еде. Здесь о ней говорят так, как представители других страны могут обсуждать политику или спорт: достойно, детально и, конечно, темпераментно. Итальянцы твердо верят, что невозможно думать, сильно любить или даже крепко спать, не уделив предварительно время трапезе.

PH

OT

O: m

On

ica

fe

ud

i/f

eu

diG

ua

ine

ri

55

Возможно, именно поэтому для эпизода, посвященного наслаждению едой, в фильме с Джулией Робертс «Ешь, молись, люби» были выбраны Рим и Неаполь. Бесподобная пицца и другие специалитеты составляют предмет гордости Неаполя, и готовят их из лучших ингредиентов местного происхождения.

Не меньшим почтением в Италии пользуется естественная женская красота. В отличие от миллионов женщин по всему миру, итальянки не готовы тратить время на сложный макияж или диеты в погоне за идеалом. Это остроумно обыграно в другом эпизоде «Ешь, молись, люби», когда героиня Робертс пытается влезть в любимые джинсы после сытного итальянского ужина. Осанка и харизма – вот все, что нужно сеньорите, чтобы ей восхищались.

«Женщины чувственны от природы. За это мы их и любим, - декларирует Стефано Габбана, со-основатель итальянского модного дома Dolce & Gabbana, – Все дело в харизме». Едва ли в Италии сочтут привлекательной женщину, которая отказывается от еды, не улыбается и не умеет наслаждаться жизнью. Уже почти три десятилетия Габбана и его партнер Доменико Дольче прославляют женственность форм, с первого дня подчеркивая, что ничто так не украшает тело, как черный корсет.

Этот мотив красной нитью проходит сквозь все их коллекции – с 1985 года и до показа сезона весна/лето 2014. Классическое бюстье и черное кружево новой серии напоминают о фирменной эстетике творческого тандема. Однако не стоит думать, что это все делается ради декоративного эффекта. Важно понимать, что итальянская мода творится не для девочек, но для женщин.

Творчество самых известных дизайнеров Италии восхищает и вдохновляет настоящих леди: алые платья в пол Valentino, впечатляющие жакеты и платья Gucci, идеально скроенные костюмы Armani – их объединяет подход «меньше значит больше». Ведь сила простоты здесь присуща не только кухне, но и моде. Для идеальной пасты необходимо совсем немного изысканных свежих ингредиентов. Аналогично и маленькое черное платье: подчеркивая все достоинства фигуры, оно не нуждается в дополнениях. Все дело в силуэте: «Прославиться логотипом несложно. Гораздо интереснее создать выдающийся силуэт», - подчеркивает Джамбаттиста Валли.

Дизайнерам Италии посчастливилось иметь дело с культурой изящных ремесел, где техники и профессиональные секреты передаются из поколения в поколение. Как и восхищение истинной женственностью,

globalblue.com

56

это пронизывает любое их творение. «Женское платье - как забор из колючей проволоки: оно должно служить своим целям, не загораживая вид», - афористично заметила Софи Лорен. И это правда: для итальянцев на первом плане женщина, а затем - ее платье.

Это закреплено в культурном коде. Например, культовыми фильмы этой страны сделали чувственные актрисы, способные заставить многих мужчин опуститься на колени. Вспомните хотя бы роскошную Аниту Экберг, плавающую в фонтане Треви в фильме «Сладкая жизнь». А разве можно забыть женственность Софи Лорен в ленте «Эль Сид», в которой ее героиня умело повела за собой сурового персонажа Чарлтона Хестона.

«Элегантность итальянской простоты лежит в основе их стиля и эстетики, - подтверждает модный эксперт и стилист Сара Хоган. – Никто не сможет превзойти красивую, изящную итальянку Монику Белуччи в маленьком черном платье Dolce & Gabbana. Ведь этот силуэт идеален».

28: All In The Detail

Совершенство в деталях

Превосходное мастерство в сочетании с безупречным дизайном: не удивительно, что итальянские аксессуары из натуральной кожи так

популярны среди с мужчин по всему миру, говорит Руайрид Притчард

Знак «Made in Italy» на протяжении веков считался синонимом исключительного качества и непревзойденного мастерства. Знающие люди всегда ценили аксессуары, изготовленные руками итальянских ремесленников, и сегодня их талант востребован как никогда раньше. Начиная от обуви, шляп и ремней и заканчивая бумажниками и сумками – итальянские изделия из кожи сегодня достигли новых стандартов роскоши.

Cellerini – один из успешных итальянских проектов, задуманный Сильвано Целлерини еще в начале 1950-х годов. Его производство состояло всего из одной швейной машинки и нескольких отрезков кожи, купленных на деньги от небольшого наследства. Десять лет спустя Целлерини и его жена решили расширить ассортимент, начав пошив кожаных сумок и чемоданов для зажиточных флорентийских семей.

Теперь бренд возглавляет дочь основателя – Алессандра, которая заботится о том, чтобы утвержденные родителями стандарты качества оставались всегда на высоте. Множество техник, использованных для пошива самой первой сумки бренда, по-прежнему

57

актуальны: раскрой кожи всегда выполняется только вручную опытными ремесленниками, затем отдельные куски тщательно обрезаются и сшиваются с применением самых последних технологий.

Кроме всего прочего, Cellerini продолжает предлагать услуги персонального пошива изделий, как и пол века тому назад. Благодаря широкому разнообразию кожи, подкладочных тканей, ниток и фурнитуры, Cellerini может создать любое изделие из натуральной итальянской кожи специально по заказу клиента.

Santoni – еще одно известное ателье, претендующее на звание лучшего в Италии. Оно было основано в 1975 году миланским портным Андреа Сантони и занимается пошивом роскошной обуви ручной работы. Сейчас брендом управляет уже второе поколение семьи Сантони, которому удалось не только расширить производство до уровня крупнейшего в стране, но и сохранить семейные ценности: качество, внимание к деталям и мастерство, полностью основанное на ручном труде.

Два ключевых направления бренда – инновации и традиции – до сих пор обеспечивают прочную основу для работы. Сегодня Santoni сочетает в себе традиционное мастерство ручной работы и последние новаторские технологии производства. В результате

каждая пара обуви, будь то туфли или полуботинки, сидит на ноге просто идеально.

Немало усилий уходит на поиск отборных сортов кожи и ткани, которые смогут обеспечить обуви комфортность, прочность и неотразимый внешний вид. Лучшим примером такого подхода служит последняя коллекция бренда – Limited Edition Collection, дизайном которой занимался сам Андреа Сантони. Все этапы создания обуви, начиная с первого раскроя тщательно отобранной кожи и заканчивая нанесением финальных фирменных штрихов, выполняются исключительно вручную и могут занимать неограниченное количество времени. Например, окраска кожи может состоять из более чем 15 этапов, что еще раз доказывает насколько ручной труд и мастерство ценятся на производстве Santorini.

Однако вкусы стильных мужчин сегодня не ограничиваются лишь новинками итальянских аксессуаров. Все большую популярность среди поклонников красивого итальянского ремесла приобретают винтажные изделия из кожы. Миланский магазин Bernardini – настоящая сокровищница со множеством прекрасных старинных изделий, восстановленных должным образом. Основателем магазина в 1996 году был

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52: When You Shop The

World, Shop Tax Free

Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с tax free

Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270,000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира.Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки tax free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.

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Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших пунктов.

Контакты:

[email protected]+421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €154.94 и сэкономьте до 15.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (VAT) минус административная

Макс Бернардинию. На идею открытия нового дела в како-то мере повлиял бизнес его отца, долгое время торговавшего изысканным антиквариатом.

В магазине посетителей ждет эклектичная коллекция редких и тщательно подобранных изделий, начиная от винтажных саквояжей, чемоданов и заканчивая дамскими сумочками Prada и Gucci. Многие из изделий были сделаны на заказ специально для богатых европейских путешественников еще во времена первых африканских экспедиций начала 20-х годов. Разнообразие и привлекательность коллекции служат прекрасной иллюстрацией многовекового качества итальянского производства, особенно в отношении изделий из кожи.

Современные мужчины прекрасно понимают, что приобретение кожаных аксессуаров итальянского производства связано не только с выгодными инвестициями. Аксессуары могут дать весьма четкое представление о богатых итальянских традициях мастерства и пошива вещей на заказ. Изготовленные вручную аксессуары всегда были и остаются визитной карточкой итальянской роскоши и отличительным признаком по-настоящему хорошо одетого мужчины.cellerini.it, santonishoes.com, bernardinimilano.it

59


甜美生活

美文翻译

комиссия. В некоторых пунктах возврата взымается дополнительная фиксированная плата за немедленный возврат наличными.

意大利人将同等热情投诸于丰盛

美食与华丽女装。与Elle Blakeman

一起探索该国两大爱好之间的亲密

关系

“目之所见的一切，无不是意大利面

的功绩。”这是意大利风尚无冕之王

Sophia Loren的名言。其充分说明

意大利精神中从不容纳折中主义。

这个国度为热情而生——对于食

物、对于艺术、对于建筑或是对于

热情自身——这种奔放的情感在各

方面产生影响。

对于la dolce vita即甜蜜生活至

死不渝的追求，可从意大利人对待

食物的态度中略见端倪，意大利人

会以别国人讨论政治或体育的热

情，来讨论食物：无不是满怀敬意、

深刻剖析、辩论热烈的争论。意大

利人坚定地认为，人们如果不能吃

得好，就无法好好思考、恋爱、或是

睡觉，这或许也是 Julia Roberts最

近的电影Eat,Pray,Love的“食物”单

元，将场景设于罗马与那不勒斯的

原因，后者以制作无可匹敌的披萨、

以及各种使用大自然赋予的本地上

佳食材制作的特色菜而闻名。

意大利的女性同样备受尊重，人

们为女性的自然吸引力而欢庆。痛

苦的长期挨饿与为身材而节食从不

是他们的作风——正如Julia Rob-

erts在Eat,Pray,Love中的角色风趣

展示的，她在享用完意大利美食后，

心满意足地挣扎着套上牛仔裤——

与世界其他角落的女人们大相径

庭；想要赢得推崇，意大利女性需

要担心的只是她们的态度而已。

“所有的女人都是感性的。

我们爱他们全部，”意大利品牌

Dolce&Gabbana的半壁江山Ste-

fano Gabbana表示。“这完全关乎

态度，”他补充道，并提醒我们没有

什么比女人不愿意吃、不愿意微笑

与享受生活更让人觉得丧气的了。

近30年来，Gabbana与搭档Do-

menico Dolce自始至终讴歌着女性

形象，因为没有比黑色胸衣更吸引

人的衣物了。这一主题反复出现在

他们从1985年到2014年春/夏发布

的系列中，其中经典的紧身胸衣和

幼滑黑色蕾丝，已成为这对设计组

合的招牌设计。然而，任何将女性视

作花瓶的人都大错特错：意大利时

装的伟大之处在于，它只装扮女人，

而非女孩。”

从意大利众多享誉盛名的设计

师身上，我们可以见到其对于女性

的敬佩，他们用时装赋予女性力

量：从Valent ino的猩红色曳地礼

服，Gucci充满慑人气场的夹克与晚

礼服，到Armani完美的定制西服，

无不透露出面对混乱时以“少即是

多”应对的基本理念。

意大利时尚如同其备受热爱的

美食一般，因强调简单背后的力量

而别具一格；就像一小把精致的

新鲜食材就能让意大利面滋味出

众，一袭穿着得体、穿着场合适宜

的小黑裙不需要任何累赘的修饰。

裙子的廓形是其中关键：“在时尚

界最难做到的不是因为一个 logo

被记住，而是因为某种廓形被记

得。”Giambattista Valli非常认同

此点。意大利设计师们幸运地浸染

于精巧手工的历史文化中，继承了

世代延续的手法与技巧。当与全国

上下对于女性的崇敬相结合，这些

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皮革，继承产业如此稀薄，谁也不

成料想，十年之后，Cellerini与妻子

将此品牌扩张做大，开创自主的皮

革、手袋、行李箱，一度成为佛罗伦

萨最富足的家族之一。

该品牌如今为创始人之女Ales-

sandra掌舵，她将父母所留下的绝

世品质发扬光大。不少工艺技术依

旧保持至今：皮革切割完全由熟练

工匠手工精细完成。在缝制之前，

所有皮革皆被小心裁剪，当然，如今

日益先进的制造技术也为精良的制

作贡献良多。

同样，如今Cellerini所能提供的

个性化定制，比半个世纪前更为琳

琅满目。由于原材料的多样性，客户

可以自主选择小牛皮、衬板、线和

硬件等等来组装。但凡客户有所心

愿，Cellerini皆可为其奉上意大利

皮革杰作。

另一家族工作室Santoni，可称得

上意大利最好的品牌。此品牌由An-

drea Santoni于1975年创立，在米兰

城里内打造出精美绝伦的手工鞋。

技艺便让设计师的作品从开始就脱

颖而出。正如Sophia Loren曾指出

的，“女性的衣服应该如同铁丝网：

发挥功用却不阻挡视线”；对于意大

利人而言，女性自身是第一位的，其

次才是着装。

时尚之外的舆论同样支持这一

观点，该国最具标志性的电影无不

启用引无数男性尽折腰的魅力女性

出演：试想La Dolce Vita一片中，风

采夺目的Anita Ekberg在Trevi喷泉

嬉戏的场景。而谁又能忘记Sophia

Loren在El Cid中扮演的女性角色，

成功吸引了原本无意的Charlton

Heston加入到对于她的追逐。

“意大利简约风格的优雅气息，

透露在他们创造的所有造型，及倡

导的所有美学理念之中，”时尚专

家与造型师Sarah Hogan认为。“

你绝对无法击败一名光彩照人、曲

线玲珑的意大利女人，譬如身着

Dolce&Gabbana小黑裙的Monica

Bellucci——这就是完美轮廓的最

佳定义。”

无可挑剔的设计加上精湛的制作工

艺：难怪男人对意大利优良皮革如

此痴醉，Ruairidh Pritchard如此

说。

几个世纪以来，“意大利制造”一直是

非凡品质的代名词。这些知名品牌，

一直将本国的工匠技能发扬光大。

如今的优秀工匠们，比往昔更能将

才华发挥得淋漓尽致，制作出最为

出色的男装配件。从鞋子到帽子，皮

带和钱包，行李箱，意大利的手工皮

具均在奢侈品品质上创下新高。

意大利的传奇之一是Cellerini。

这个品牌由Silvano Cellerini在20

世纪50年代初创办，创办之时极为

简陋，不过拥有一架缝纫机和若干


痴醉细节

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家商店消费时，环球蓝联（Global

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除管理手续费。若选择即时现金退

税，部分退税点将以退税表格为单

位收取一定数额的手续费。



畅购全球，尊享退税

如今，Santoni第二代已掌舵数十年，

壮大成为意大利本土最大制鞋企业

之一。他们一直坚守着核心价值观

品质，对细节保持不懈的激情，以及

坚持一丝不苟手工打造工艺。

Santoni的两大关键支柱——创

新与传统——仍然是该品牌坚实的

基础。如今，Santoni结合了传统专

家手工工艺与开拓性的生产技术，

以确保每个品类臻至完美，无论是

粗革皮鞋或是切尔西靴子。

Santoni不惜将大量精力投入采

购最抢手珍稀的皮革和面料，以确

保每种风格有着尽善尽美的舒适，

实用耐用以及时尚美观。这些品质

在最新限量珍藏版上得到最为完美

的体现。所有设计和材料监督都由

Andrea Santoni亲自担当。从精心

挑选的皮革到最终打上品牌火漆，

每一步皆由手工费时费力完成。鞋

子制作上几乎不计时间成本，皮革

着色超过15道工序，这证明了San-

toni对于工艺的重视程度。

然而，意大利皮革并非只是新

近在富人圈中流行。复古及古董皮

具流传有序，如今越发为人重视，

不乏有心人投资于漂亮的意大利皮

革。米兰的Bernardini是一家古董

行，专门经营精美珍稀古董。该店由

Max Bernardini始建于1996年，他

的父亲一直以来为意大利最富有的

家族进口精美古玩，他的热爱与灵

感便来自于长期的耳濡目染。

这家古董行气氛温馨，甚至拥

有全职调酒师，是收集珍稀古董的

专业场地，古董皮具应有尽有，无论

是老式旅行箱包，手提箱或是梳妆

盒，品牌还包括Prada和Gucci。这

许多箱包当时为富裕的欧洲探险家

而制。那些探险家便携此箱包在二

十世纪初期第一次远征非洲。这些

传奇的故事，多样的皮具，精美的

设计都为意大利的品质皮具写下精

彩不凡的注脚。

对于现代男人而言，意大利皮

具不仅拥有恒久风格，更拥有丰富

的专业工艺传统和个性化的定制技

术。这不仅是意大利男人着装的标

志风格，更是意大利制作对于奢侈

品行业的杰出贡献。

cellerini.it, santonishoes.com,

bernardinimilano.it

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62

イタリア人は、食べ物と贅沢で女らし

いファッションに等しく情熱を注いで

いる。この国が愛するこの二つの関係

を、エリー・ブレイクマンが探った。

「あなたの目に映る私の姿は全て、ス

パゲッティを食べてるおかげ。」―イ

タリアのスタイルの女王といわれるソ

フィア・ローレンがこう言ったことは有

名だ。何でもふんだんが一番というイ

タリア人気質を見事に象徴した言葉

だ。食、芸術、建築、そして情熱その

ものに対しても情熱を注ぐことで知ら

れる国だけに、この豊饒感があらゆる

ものに反映されている。

ドルチェ・ヴィータ（いい人生）を

生きたいという揺るがぬ願望が最も

顕著に表れているのは、食に対する

イタリア人の姿勢だ。他の国の国民が

政治やスポーツについて意見を戦わ

せるのと同じ勢いで、イタリア人は食

を語る。食に対して敬意を抱き、あれ

これ分析し、猛烈な論戦を繰り広げ

るのだ。イタリア人は、「よく食べなけ

れば、よく考え、よく愛し、よく眠るこ

とはできない」と固く信じている。最

近のジュリア・ロバーツ主演映画『食

べて、祈って、恋をして』の「食べて」

の部分がローマとナポリを舞台として

いるのは、おそらくそのせいだ。ナポリ

は特に、豊かな自然に恵まれた地元

でとれる良質の食材を使ったピザやそ

の他の特産料理で、右に出る者の無

い評判を大いに誇っている。

敬意はイタリア女性に対しても同

じで、自然体の魅力が愛でられる。

この国では、フィットネスに何時間も

費やし、食事制限で理想の体形を手

に入れるなど考えられない。ちょうど

『食べて、祈って、恋をして』でジュリ

ア・ロバーツが演じるキャラクターが

イタリアでの食三昧の後にジーンズを

はくのに四苦八苦する場面があるが、

イタリア女性は他国の女性の多くとは

違う。敬愛されるために大事なのは専

ら心の持ちようなのだ。

「女性はみんな官能的。全ての女

性を愛してる」というのは、イタリアの

ブランド、ドルチェ＆ガッバーナの一

人、ステファノ・ガッバーナだ。　「要

は生き方だ」という彼は、食べること

や微笑むこと、人生を楽しむことを拒

む女性ほど色気のないものはないこ

とをしみじみ感じさせてくれる。ガッ

バーナはパートナーのドメニコ・ドル

チェと共に、30年近くにわたって女性

の体形を賛美してきた。二人とも初期

の頃から、黒いブラほど魅力的な物

はないと言い続け、それが1985年か

日本語翻訳


ライフ・イズ・ビューティフル

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ディテールがすべて

優れた職人技に非の打ちどころのな

いデザイン、イタリアの高級革製洋品

ブランドが世界中の男性にうけている

のも不思議はない。ルーリー・プリチ

ャードがレポートする。

何世紀も前から、「メイド・イン・イタ

リア」といえば一際優れた品質を意

味してきた。通はこの国の職人が持

つ伝統技能を常に高く評価してきた

が、その職人たちが今、従来にも増し

てその才能を最高の革製紳士洋品の

生産に注いでいる。靴から帽子、カバ

ン、ベルト、財布、旅行カバンに至るま

で、イタリアの手作り革製品はさらな

る贅沢の極みに達している。

イタリアのサクセスストーリーの

一つがチェレリーニだ。シルヴァーノ・

チェレリーニが1950年代初頭に設立

したこのブランドは、少額の遺産を元

手に買ったミシン一台と獣皮一枚から

出発した。10年後、チェレリーニとそ

ら今日まで一貫したテーマになってい

る。2014年の春夏コレクションにも、

このドュオの代表的スタイルとなった

古典的なビュスチェや黒のレーススリ

ップが登場した。だが、全ては装飾だ

と思ったら大間違い。イタリアンファ

ッションの凄さの一つは、女の子では

なく女の装いだという点だ。

本物の女を賞賛し力を与える能力

は、イタリアの有名デザイナーの多く

に共通して見られるものだ。ヴァレンテ

ィノの緋色のフロアレングスドレス、グ

ッチの「手を出したら火傷するわよ」

と言わんばかりのパワフルなジャケッ

トやロングドレス、アルマーニの完璧

な仕立てのスーツ。どれも皆、飾りは「

レス・イズ・モア」というのが全般を通

じた考え方だ。

イタリアンファッションは、愛され

るイタリア料理と同じようにシンプル

さが身上だ。新鮮な極上食材を数種

類だけ使うからこそ美味しいパスタに

似て、身体にフィットし締めるところ

は締めたリトル・ブラックドレスは何も

加えずともそれだけで完璧なのだ。鍵

となるのはシルエット。「ファッション

界で難しいのは、ロゴで知られるので

なくシルエットで知られること」という

ジャンバッティスタ・ヴァリも同感だ。

イタリアのデザイナーはラッキーなこ

とに、代々受け継がれてきた技巧と

技能を持った優れた職人が織り成す

職人文化に囲まれている。そうした技

能と女性の体形を賛美する国柄が共

に、彼らのデザインの基盤となってい

るのだ。ソフィア・ローレンがかつて言

った。「女性のドレスは有刺鉄線のフ

ェンスのようであるべき。景観を損な

うことなく目的に適うことが大事」と。

イタリア人にとって、ドレスよりもまず

女性ありきなのだ。

ファッション以外の文化も、この

姿勢を踏襲している。イタリアを代表

する映画には、世の男をメロメロにす

る肉感的なスターが登場する。　『

甘い生活』の中でトレビの泉で水と戯

れるアニタ・エクバークの神々しい姿

を思い浮かべてほしい。また、『エル・

シド』で不本意なチャールトン・ヘスト

ンをたぶらかして意のままにするソフ

ィア・ローレンの女体を誰が忘れられ

ようか。　

「イタリアのシンプルなエレガン

スは、イタリア人のすること全てのスタ

イル、彼らが信奉する審美感の隅々に

浸透している」というのは、ファッショ

ンエキスパートでスタイリストのサラ・

ホーガン。「モニカ・ベルッチのような

曲線的なイタリア女性がドルチェ＆ガ

ッバーナの黒のミニドレスをまとった

姿。これに勝る美はありません。まさ

しく完璧なシルエットです。

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の妻は事業を拡大し、当時のフィレン

ツェの最富裕層を相手に、革のハンド

バッグや旅行カバンを作り始める。

現在このブランドを率いるのは創

業者の娘アレッサンドラだが、比類の

ない品質に対する両親のこだわりを

持ち続けることに心を砕いている。チ

ェレリーニが初めてカバンを作った時

の作業手順の多くは、今も変わってい

ない。革は全て同社の経験豊かな職

人が手でカットし、続くトリミングも手

作業で丁寧に行う。その後の縫製過

程では、製造技術の進歩の助けを借

りている。

また、チェレリーニでは半世紀以

上も前と同じレベルのパーソナライゼ

ーション・サービスを今も提供してい

る。仔牛革、裏地、糸、金具は幅広い

選択肢があり、自分だけのイタリア革

の傑作を誂えてもらえる。同じく家族

経営のアトリエで「イタリア最高」を

自称するのは、サントーニだ。アンドレ

ア・サントーニが1975年に創業して以

来、ミラノ製手作り靴の傑作をいくつ

も生み出して来た。創業から数十年を

経て現在二代目が舵を取るサントーニ

は、イタリア生まれの靴メーカーとして

は国内有数の規模に成長したが、「品

質」、「ディテールへのこだわり」、「も

っぱら手作業」という基本的な価値

観は変わらず持ち続けている。

ブランドの二大柱である「革新」と

「伝統」は、仕事の基礎として今も揺

るぎない。近年はブローグでもチェル

シーブーツでも、一足一足の靴のフィ

ット感を極めるために、伝統に根差し

た職人の技と先駆的な生産技術とを

組み合わせている。

どのスタイルでもデザインが粋で、

しかも履き心地が良く実用的で耐久

性の高いものを作るために、最も珍

重される皮や生地の調達にも余念が

ない。そうした努力がありありと見て

とれるのが、同ブランドの最新限定コ

レクションだ。デザインも材料も、ア

ンドレア・サントーニが自ら吟味して

いる。厳選された革のカットから最後

にサントーニのマークの焼印を入れる

65



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お尋ねください。あとは、次のステップ

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ーサービスデスクで払い戻しを受け

ます。

お問い合わせ：

[email protected]

+421 232 111 111

€154.94以上のお買い物をすれば、

購入価格の最高15.5％の払い戻しが

受けられます。最終的な払い戻し額

は、付加価値税（VAT）合計から事

務手数料を差し引いた金額となります

ので、その旨ご了承ください。なお、現

金での即日還付が必要な場合は、還

付の場所によって、各タックスフリーフ

ォームにつき固定の追加手数料をと

られる場合があります。

までの全ての工程を手で行い、一足

を作るのに時間の制限はない。革の

着色過程一つでも15回以上色を重ね

なければならないものがあり、それを

思えば、サントーニの生産には依然と

して職人の技が最も重要なことがわ

かる。

ところで、裕福な男性のお気に入

りは何も新品のイタリア製品だけで

はない。ヴィンテージや修復されたア

ンティークの革製品も、美しいイタリ

アンレザーに投資したい人の間で人

気が高まっている。ミラノのベルナル

ディーニは、手間暇かけて修復された

珍しいアンティーク物が一杯だ。この

店はオーナーのマックス・ベルナルデ

ィーニが1996年に開店した。父親が

イタリアの大富豪向けの高級アンティ

ーク輸入に携わっていたことがきっか

けだ。

バーテンダーが常駐する感じのい

い店内には、プラダやグッチといった

ブランド製のヴィンテージのトランク

やスーツケース、バニティケースなど、

巧みに入手した珍品を折衷したコレ

クションが展示されている。その多く

は、20世紀はじめのアフリカ探検時

代初期にヨーロッパの富裕な探検家

用に作られたものだ。品揃えの多様さ

と価値の高さは、イタリアの高級革製

品作りの長い歴史をまざまざと証明し

ている。

現代の男性にとって、イタリア革

製洋品は長持ちするスタイルへの投

資であるだけでなく、職人技を駆使し

たもの作りと、昔から真の着こなし上

手の特徴であり、本当の贅沢に対す

るイタリア人のこだわりの印でもある

個々人に合わせたパーソナライゼーシ

ョンの豊かな伝統について、興味深

い洞察を与えてくれるものでもあるの

は確かだ。

cellerini.it, santonishoes.com,

bernardinimilano.it

66 | PRODUCTS


Souvenir

SCENT OF SORRENTO

Created by the perfumers at

Mario Limone, Assaje represents

the beauty of life in Sorrento

bottled for your olfactory enjoy-

ment. Made from the certifed

local Sorrento lemons, which

are mechanically pressed before

being left to macerate in alcohol

for up to 90 days, the resulting

fragrance is powerful and unique.

A reviving and regenerating scent,

it is designed to transport you to

the sunny coastal town where it

is made. Mario Limone’s epony-

mous founder started the company

in 1970 in the picturesque resort,

where it is still run today by his

sons Gino and Maurizio. hl

Mario Limone Assaje eau de

parfum, €60,

Profumeria Limone,

Corso Italia 212B-C,

80067 Sorrento,

+39 081 807 3001, mariolimone.it


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