KEY FINDINGS

Is Shiraz/Syrah South Africa’s best red wine category overall? Based on this tasting, the answer would be an emphatic “Yes”. Out of the 83 entries from 67 producers, more than half – 45 to be precise – rated 90-plus on the 100-point quality scale and all of the top 10 rated 93 or above, the Elim 2017 as made by De Grendel gaining an outstanding 95.

At the time of political transformation in the 1990s, Shiraz plantings were not extensive but there was a general sense that the variety might do well here. It went from 4% of the national vineyard in 1999 to just over 10% in 2014 where it has just about stabilised. Total area under vineyard at the end of 2018 was 9 497ha (10.2% of the national vineyard), making it the second most widely planted red variety after Cabernet Sauvignon – it has become a very important variety within the industry in a relatively short time.

Consider this year’s top 10 and it appears that part of its success is that is well suited to a variety of growing conditions with two each from Stellenbosch, Swartland and Walker Bay and one each from Bot River, Cederberg, Elim and Franschhoek.

Another reason for the rise of Shiraz is that it seems to respond well to a variety of winemaking approaches. In the most basic terms, two broad stylistic groupings can be discerned, the first consisting of wines that are overtly aromatic, lighter bodied yet grippy and the second more darkly coloured, full-fruited and smooth textured, these very often being of equal merit.

If too many examples of local Shiraz tended towards generic red wine a decade ago, often too sweet and lacking the trademark aroma and flavour of pepper, there are now far more wines of distinction, the panel speculating that this was the result of 1) increased vine age and 2) growing viticultural and winemaking sophistication.

With regards the second point, it is clear that many winemakers are opting for at least an element of whole-bunch fermentation (leaving the berries on the stems) in order to make the aromatics more fragrant and lend a certain firmness to the tannins and this seems to be deftly handled in most instances. Oaking regimes also seem to be done with particular care and generally the wines appear nicely facilitated.

When it comes to the pricing of the category, this appears particularly muddled, producers apparently not sure where to position their respective offerings. The average cellar-door price of the 45 wines to rate 90-plus is R230, 41 a bottle, the least expensive being the 92-point Franschhoek Cellar Baker Station 2017 selling for R76 a bottle and the most expensive being the 90-point GlenWood Grand Duc Syrah 2016 at R600 a bottle. Within the top 10, four wines come in at under R120 a bottle (see below) which is great news for consumers but surely not realistic for producers in the long-term.

JUDGING PROCEDURES

The judging panel was chaired by myself and further consisted of two trusted colleagues, namely Roland Peens and James Pietersen, both of Wine Cellar, a Cape Town firm which brokers and cellars fine wine. We tasted blind, ratings done according to the 100-point system. Final scores were awarded on the basis of discussion that involved retasting where necessary rather than relying solely on arithmetic averaging.

Christian Eedes Editor, Winemag.co.za

TASTING NOTES FOR TOP 10

De Grendel Elim 2017 Price: R696 x 1.5L

Creation Reserve Syrah 2017 Price: R360

Kleinood Tamboerskloof Syrah 2016 Price: R220

Total production: 1 344 x 1.5L Abv: 13.5%

30% whole-bunch fermentation.

Matured for 13 months in second- and third-fill French oak barrels. A very primary nose with berries, pepper and some smoky reduction to the fore. The palate has lovey fruit concentration, zippy acidity and crunchy tannins. Intense but not weighty, this is wine is admirable for both its focus and elegance.

Total production: 6 400 bottles Abv: 14.87%

30% whole-bunch fermentation.

Matured for 18 months in French oak, 25% new. A hedonistic nose with a floral top note before red and black fruit, attractive oak-derived notes and pepper. The palate is full but balanced with layers of flavour. Plenty of power in evidence.

Total production: 61 980 bottles Abv: 14.5%

95% Syrah, 4% Mourvèdre and 1% Viognier.

Matured for 18 months in 300- and 500-litre French oak barrels, 15% new. Very primary on the nose with a touch of reduction before red berries, herbs and white pepper. The palate is clean and fresh with pure, concentrated fruit and crunchy tannins, the finish long and dry.

Simonsig Mr Borio's 2017 Price: R110

Total production: 50 000 bottles Abv: 14.2%

67% of the blend spent 10 months in older oak, 90% French and 10% American oak. 33% of the blend was matured with French oak staves.

The nose shows a floral top note before red and black fruit plus cured meat, pepper and spice while the palate is medium bodied with good detail and a long, savoury finish.

TSW Syrah 2017 (Trizanne Signature Wines) Price: R105

Total production: 9 300 bottles Abv: 13.67%

Matured for 12 months in 500-litre barrels.

An enticing nose with top notes of rose, musk and fynbos before red fruit and white pepper. The palate is light bodied with vibrant acidity and fine tannins, the finish long and saline. Elegant and understated.

Cederberg 2017 Price: R225

Total production: 44 652 bottles Abv: 14.5%

Matured for 15 months in 95% French and 5% American oak, 60% new.

Red and black fruit, some fynbos, smoked meat and pepper plus vanilla and incense on the nose. Rich and full on the palate with succulent fruit and smooth tannins. An opulent expression of the variety.

Julien Schaal Walker Bay Syrah 2017 Price: R150

Total production: 1 079 bottles Abv: 14%

Matured for 12 months in 300-litre Burgundy barrels, 15% new.

The nose is quite heady with top notes of flowers and fynbos before black berries and pepper. The palate is marked by a good core of fruit, fresh acidty and crunchy tannins – impressive depth while still presenting as savoury.

Lammershoek The Innnocent Syrah 2017 Price: R94

Total production: 11 300 bottles Abv: 14%

A variety of fermentation techniques used including some 20% whole-bunch before maturation lasting 11 months in a combination of concrete tanks, wooden foudre and old barrels.

Red and black berries plus rose, lavender, fynbos, pepper and spice make for a compelling nose. The palate appears light bodied with clean, pure fruit, fresh acidity and fine tannins, a pleasant saltiness to the finish. Very more-ish!

Luddite 2014 Price: R560

Total production: 15 800 bottles Abv: 14.8%

10% whole-bunch fermentation. Matured for 24 months in 95% French and 5% Hungarian oak, 20% new.

Red and black berries plus olive brine, smoked meat and pepper on the nose. Good fruit concentration, bright acidity and fine tannins. Full but balanced, this is built to last.

Old Road Wine Co. Limited Release 12 Mile Syrah 2017 Price: R345

Total production: 2 000 bottles Abv: 13.5%

15% whole-bunch fermentation. Matured for 14 months in 600-litre French oak barrels, 25% new.

A complex nose with some floral perfume before red and black fruit, vanilla, smoked meat and spice. The palate is broad and flavourful with plenty of succulent fruit matched by chewy tannins. Made to impress.

BUYING GUIDE: CELLAR-DOOR PRICES FOR WINES RATED 90+ WINE SCORE PRICE

De Grendel Elim 2017 95 R695 x 1.5L

TSW Syrah 2017 (Trizanne Signature Wines) 94 R105

Simonsig Mr Borio's 2017 94 R110

Kleinood Tamboerskloof Syrah 2016 94 R220

Creation Reserve Syrah 2017 94 R360

Lammershoek The Innnocent Syrah 2017 93 R94

Julien Schaal Walker Bay Syrah 2017 93 R150

Cederberg 2017 93 R225

Old Road Wine Co. Limited Release 12 Mile Syrah 2017 93 R345

Luddite 2014 93 R560

Franschhoek Cellar Baker Station 2017 92 R76

Old Road Wine Co. The Anvil 2017 92 R98

Stellenbosch Reserve 2018 92 R160

Dornier Siren Syrah 2016 92 R165

Rickety Bridge 2017 92 R170

De Grendel 2017 92 R190

Saxenburg Private Collection 2016 92 R235

Eagles' Nest 2015 92 R285

Rust en Vrede Estate Vineyards Syrah 2017 92 R295

Bruce Jack Clean Slate Single Vineyard 2015 92 R388

Zandvliet 2016 91 R110

Olifantsberg Syrah 2016 91 R150

Jordan The Prospector Syrah 2016 91 R179

Strandveld Syrah 2017 91 R185

Almenkerk Syrah 2015 91 R220

Alto 2016 91 R250

Iona Solace Syrah 2016 91 R290

Haut Espoir 2012 91 R400

Koelenbosch 2017 (Koelenhof) 90 R85

Vondeling Baldrick 2017 90 R98

Nederburg The Winemasters 2018 90 R100

Bellingham Homestead 2017 90 R130

Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection Shiraz 2016 90 R148

Lammershoek Terravinum Reserve Syrah 2016 90 R165

Durbanville Hills Collectors Reserve The High Noon 2017 90 R170

Driehoek 2016 90 R175

La Motte Syrah 2017 90 R175

Dorrance Cuvée Ameena 2016 90 R215

Kunjani 2015 90 R220

La Motte Pierneef Syrah Viognier 2017 90 R270

Plaisir de Merle 2016 90 R280

Fairview The Beacon 2015 90 R310

DeMorgenzon Syrah Reserve 2017 90 R395

Mont Rochelle Miko 2010 90 R500

GlenWood Grand Duc Syrah 2016 90 R600

COMPLETE SCORES A – Z

NAME WINE OF ORIGIN SCORE

Abingdon Syrah 2017 Lions River, Kwazulu-Natal 89

Allée Bleue 2017 Franschhoek 88

Allée Bleue Black Series Single Vineyard Syrah 2015 Franschhoek 87

Almenkerk Syrah 2015 Elgin 91

Alto 2016 Stellenbosch 91

Asara Vineyard Collection 2015 Stellenbosch 87

Babylonstoren 2017 Simonsberg, Paarl 89

Beau Constantia Stella 2017 Constantia 88

Bellingham Homestead 2017 Paarl 90

Bizoe Estalét Syrah 2016 Western Cape 88

Bruce Jack Clean Slate Single Vineyard 2015 Overberg 92

Cederberg 2017 Cederberg 93

Creation Reserve Syrah 2017 Walker Bay 94

D'Aria The Soprano 2017 Cape Town 89

De Grendel 2017 Coastal Region 92

De Grendel Elim 2017 Elim 95

DeMorgenzon Syrah Reserve 2017 Stellenbosch 90

Dornier Siren Syrah 2016 Stellenbosch 92

Dorrance Cuvée Ameena 2016 Western Cape 90

Driehoek 2016 Cedeberg 90

Du Preez Private Cellar 2016 Breedekloof 88

Durbanville Hills Collectors Reserve The High Noon 2017 Durbanville, Cape Town 90

Eagles' Nest 2015 Constantia 92

Esona Single Vineyard 2015 Robertson 89

Fairview The Beacon 2015 Swartland 90

Fairview Eenzaamheid 2015 Paarl 88

Flagstone Dark Horse 2015 Western Cape 88

Flying Cloud Sea Serpent Syrah 2017 Cape South Coast 88

Franschhoek Cellar Baker Station 2017 Western Cape 91

GlenWood Grand Duc Syrah 2016 Franschhoek 90

GlenWood Vigneron's Selection 2017 Franschhoek 89

Groot Constantia 2016 Constantia, Cape Town 89

Groot Constantia 2017 Constantia, Cape Town 88

Haut Espoir 2012 Franschhoek 91

Highlands Road Syrah 2015 Elgin 88

Holden Manz Syrah 2017 Franschhoek 86

Iona Solace Syrah 2016 Elgin 91

Jason's Hill 2015 Breedekloof 89

Jordan The Prospector Syrah 2016 Stellenbosch 91

Julien Schaal Walker Bay Syrah 2017 Walker Bay 93

Kleine Zalze Family Reserve 2015 Stellenbosch 88

Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection 2016 Stellenbosch 90

Kleinood Tamboerskloof Syrah 2016 Stellenbosch 94

Koelenbosch 2017 (Koelenhof) Stellenbosch 90

Kunjani 2015 Stellenbosch 90

La Bri Syrah 2016 Franschhoek 88

La Couronne 2016 Franschhoek 86

La Motte Pierneef Syrah Viognier 2017 Western Cape 90

La Motte Syrah 2017 Franschhoek 90

Lammershoek Syrah Reserve 2015 Swartland 89

Lammershoek Terravinum Reserve Syrah 2016 Swartland 90

Lammershoek The Innnocent Syrah 2017 Swartland 93

Lanzerac Syrah 2017 Jonkershoek Valley, Stellenbosch

89

Leeuwenkuil 2017 Swartland 89

Luddite 2014 Bot River 93

Marklew Reserve 2017 Western Cape 88

Mont Rochelle Miko 2010 Franschhoek 90

Mont Rochelle Syrah 2015 Franschhoek 89

Nederburg The Winemasters 2018 Western Cape 90

Old Road Wine Co. Limited Release 12 Mile Syrah 2017 Franschhoek 93

Old Road Wine Co. The Anvil 2017 Western Cape 92

Olifantsberg Syrah 2016 Breedekloof 91

Penhill 2016 (Conradie Penhill) Nuy 86

Plaisir de Merle Shiraz 2016 Simonsberg-Paarl 90

Rickety Bridge 2017 Western Cape 92

Rust en Vrede Estate Vineyards Syrah 2017 Stellenbosch 92

Saxenburg Private Collection 2016 Stellenbosch 92

Simonsig Mr Borio's 2017 Stellenbosch 94

Simonsig Merindol Syrah 2016 Stellenbosch 88

Stellenbosch Reserve 2018 Stellenbosch 92

Strandveld Syrah 2017 Elim 91

Sutherland Syrah 2015 Elgin 89

The Borrio 2015 Elim 89

Thelema 2015 Stellenbosch 89

Trizanne Signature Wines Reserve Syrah 2017 Elim 89

TSW Syrah 2017 (Trizanne Signature Wines) Swartland 94

Vondeling Baldrick 2017 Voor-Paardeberg 90

Vrede en Lust Artisan Range Casey's Ridge Syrah 2016 Elgin 89

Vrede en Lust Lady J 2016 Western Cape 89

Zandvliet 2016 Robertson 91

Zandvliet Hill of Enon Small Berry Pick 2017 Robertson 89

Zandvliet Kalkveld 2016 Robertson 88

Zevenwacht Syrah 2017 Stellenbosch 89

CONTACT DETAILS Editorial Christian Eedes christian@winemag.co.za +27 83 454 3644 @ChristianEedes Business Director Jacqueline Lahoud jax@winemag.co.za +27 83 654 7721 @JaxLahoud