sewing a bag ith

8/10/2019 Sewing a bag ITH

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INSTRUCTIONS BFCPT02 – INNER BAG SERIES B

This bag is in the Hobo Bag Style. The concept of this bag is to make one *Inner Bag* and as many *Outer

bags* as you wish. The Inner Bag can be used alone or with an outer bag. An ideal choice would be to make aneutral Inner bag so you can put any colors with it for the Outer Bag. I think these would make good for-sale

items. Someone might be willing to buy the bag and several outer bags to change the look. You will find

design sets on BFC named Convertible Handbags – Series B. These covers will fit the purses made with this pattern.

These handbags are also perfect for embellishment without using an outer bag cover. Use designs, patchwork,fiber art or all kinds of beads, crystals, buttons and other motifs to make a one of a kind bag. The squared off

plain front makes a perfect canvas for creative work!

PLEASE READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE STARTING YOUR BAG! – They must be followed in

order!

This pattern includes four sizes. The patterns make a finished bag as follows:

Mini 9.5” wide x 7.3” high x 2.5” deep

Small 11.5” wide x 8.9” high x 3” deep

Medium 14.5” wide x 11.2” high x 3.5” deep

Large 16.5” wide x 12.7” high x 3.5” deep

PATTERNS AND PRINTING: There is a pattern for the main part of the bag and this also includes the pattern

for the large pocket. I always make my patterns to print actual size, but I have discovered not all printers

cooperate! I have included a box you can use to check if your printer is printing actual size and makeadjustments if necessary to the scale. Because of this, I have included dimensions in these instructions for all

other pieces. These measurements already include a ½ inch seam allowance.

MATERIALS LIST

NOTE: I used HeatnBond fusible fleece for the bag front and back. Hobo bags are soft and *slouchy* by

nature, so if your fabric is firm enough, you might not need any interfacing. Decide what kind of bag you want – either a stiff firm bag or a softer more flexible bag before deciding on which interfacing to use. Or you can

use a combination.

These yardages are approximate and assume 45 inch wide fabric.

Inner Bag Fabric Large - 1 1/4 yard, Medium – 1 yard, Small – ¾ yard, Mini – 5/8 yard

Note: These yardages allow for two outer pockets

Inner Bag Lining ¾ yard – more or less depending on how many pocketsInterfacing 1 yard to 1 1/2 yards (depending on how many sections you interface)

Zipper for Bag Large – 17, Medium - 15 inch, Small – 12 or 13 inch, Mini – 10 inch

Note on zippers: Because of the way the zipper is put into the bag, there is flexibility on the size youcan use. The zipper can even go over the curved corner somewhat to allow the bag to open wider. I

recommend printing out your pattern before making a final decision on the length of the zipper to use.



www.BFC-Creations.com [email protected]

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©BFC-Creations.com and Susan Makalinaw

Zipper for inside pocket 6 – 9 inch – depends on how large you want your pocket (optional)

STEP 1 - ZIPPER ASSEMBLY

Cut two strips the following size: Mini: 2.5x14.5, Small: 3x16, Medium: 3.5x18.5, Large: 3.5x21.5. Interface

if desired. Press each piece in half lengthwise and press. Cut a small piece of fabric approximately 2x6 inches(depends on how long your zipper is. It will be trimmed afterward)

Place the small piece of fabric folded in half on top of the zipper as shown below. Holding the small piece of

fabric in place, lay the fold of one of your long pieces along the teeth of the zipper.

Using a zipper foot, stitch close to the edge of the fabric the entire length. A little before reaching the end of

your zipper, place the other small piece across the end of the zipper.




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Place the other long folded piece along the opposite side of the zipper and stitch in place.

Trim the width of the zipper assembly to 4.5 inches wide for the Medium and Large bags, 4 inches for the Small

and 3.5 inches for the Mini bag. (If necessary) Trim the small pieces at the end to be even with the side piecesand set aside.

STEP 2 - GUSSET

Cut your gusset to these measurements: Mini: 3.5x18.5, Small: 4x23, Medium: 4.5x30.5, Large: 4.5x 33.5.Add interfacing if desired.

Take your zipper assembly and place it right sides facing to one end of the gusset and stitch. Stitch the other

end of the zipper assembly to the other end of the gusset.




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Press seams either open or facing down. From the right side, stitch one or two rows of top stitching below theseam line.

STEP 3 - OPTIONAL OUTER POCKET(S)

Using the blue line on the pattern, place this on fold and cut out pocket. Interface if desired. Fold in half and

stitch two lines of top stitching along the upper edge.

Place the pocket on top of one of the pieces cut from the main pattern from your main fabric. Baste lower edgestogether. If desired you can stitch from the top of the pocket to the lower edge to make separate compartments.Repeat if pocket is desired on the other side of the bag.




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STEP 4 - ADDING GUSSET TO FRONT AND BACK OF BAG

Mark the top and bottom centers of the front and back bag sections. Mark the center top and bottom of your

Gusset assembly. Matching marks, pin your gusset to your bag front. Clip the seam allowance on the gusset togo around the curved corners. Stitch the gusset to the bag front. OPEN YOUR ZIPPER BEFORE THE NEXT

STEP!!!! Stitch the gusset to the bag back, marking centers and pinning as for the front. Trim all seams and

press.




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STEP 5 - LINING

POCKETS

SLOT POCKETS

Using the blue line on your main pattern, cut a pocket and fold in half as above for outer pockets. (I

recommend interfacing this with light to medium weight interfacing) Top stitch and lay on lower half of lining.To make the slots, stitch from the top of the pocket to the lower edge. Be sure to secure the top edge of stitching

very well. I would recommend getting out what you will need to carry in your bag and seeing how wide a slot

you need for the items. On the lining below, I’ve stitched 3 full size slots and one for pens, stitching across the bottom to make this pocket shorter than the rest.




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ZIPPER POCKET

Cut two pieces: 1 piece 7.5 x 10 and the other 9x10. Change the width of these two pieces if necessary

depending on the size zipper you will be using.

Fold over a half inch on one long side of each piece and place on top of zipper. Using a zipper foot, stitch close

to edge of folded fabric.

Open zipper. Fold your pocket s the bottom edges meet. The zipper should be completely on one side with a

small amount of fabric on top. (Adjust bottom of pocket if necessary.) Stitch down each side and across the bottom of the pocket. Turn the pocket right side out through the zipper opening. Press well.




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Place pocket in desired location on one of the lining pieces and top stitch in place all around the 4 sides.Once you have all your pockets completed, stitch the lining front and back to the gusset as in the instructions for

the Inner Bag.

STEP 6 - ASSEMBLE LINING

Cut two pieces of fabric: Mini: 2.5x14.5, Small: 3x16, Medium: 3.5x18.5, Large: 3.5x21.5. Fold in half

lengthwise and press. Lay the side by side, folded edges together to create zipper opening. Cut your gusset

piece as above for the bag and lay it face down on your zipper opening, short sides together and stitch. Repeatfor the other side of the zipper opening to make a circular gusset assembly as you did for the bag above.




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Stitch the gusset to the two lining pieces, Pattern A as you did for the bag.

STEP 7 - ATTACH LINING TO BAG

With your finished bag turned inside out and your lining right side out, slip your lining over your finished Inner

Bag and pin the edge of the folded strips along the zipper tape on the bag.




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Slip stitch lining in place along the tape of the zipper. Turn bag right side out. (Please note the bag above isSeries A – the shape of yours will be different.)

ADD BUTTONS

I placed the buttons right above the seam between the gusset and the zipper assembly on either side of the bag.

Stitch Buttons onto Inner Bag. Be sure to stitch the buttons on very securely.

NOTE ABOUT THE BUTTONS AND BUTTON HOLES

If you never plan to use the Inner Bag separately, you can use magnetic closures or Velcro instead of buttons if

desired. However, if you want to use the Inner Bag as is with its own strap, these would not be sufficient to

hold on the strap and you will need buttons or other secure method to hold the strap.

OPTIONAL COMPONENTS

STRAP FOR INNER BAG (so you can use it without an outer bag)

Cut two pieces of fabric the length and width of your desired strap plus seam allowances. If your fabric is soft,

add interfacing. Cut the ends into a point. Stitch the two pieces together, leaving a small opening along oneseam. Turn and Press. Top stitch as desired. Stitch a button hole to match the buttons on the bag. Another

option instead of stitching the point is to turn and cut the long ends into fringe. Make sure your fabric is

appropriate for this!

CELL PHONE POCKET

Cut a piece of fabric the height of your phone x 2 plus 1 inch for seam allowance by the width of your phone

plus 2 inches. This pocket can be used on the outside of this bag, inside the bag on the lining, or on the Coveryou will use with your bag. Check your pocket with your actual phone at each step to make sure it is going to

fit properly.




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Fold the piece in half, short sides together. Stitch around the sides and bottom leaving a small opening so youcan turn the pocket right side out. Turn and press.

Stitch one side of the pocket onto your bag or lining.

Now move the opposite edge of the pocket 1 inch towards the side you have stitched and stitch down the side.




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With your finger, press the pocket down in the center.

Press the two sides towards the center to make a pleat.




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Stitch along the bottom edge securing the start and end of stitching well.

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The labels included with your pattern.

Don’t hesitate to contact me if you have any questions – Suz [email protected]

sewing a bag ith

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