Session 3

Fabric Construction

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The Confusion of Tom…

Tom is a clever boy who likes to use his head to think about the phenomena in daily life

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Could you help Tom to answer the question ?

One day, he wore the school uniform rather than sport suit to do exercises, and he found that it was easier to split it. He tried to find the reason…

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Both uniform and sports wear are made of cloth. Why the elasticity is different?

Because the methods for fabric formation are different and their properties are not the same.

Why?

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Three Types of FabricsWoven fabric

plaintwillsatin

Knitted fabricWarp KnittedWeft knitted

Non-woven fabricSpunbondedSpunlacedNeedle punchedThermo-bondedStitch bonded

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PART---I Woven Fabrics

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What is a Woven FabricVery thin and flexible sheet materialContaining two sets of yarns: warp and weftWarp and weft are perpendicular to each otherWarp and weft are interlaced

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Why is a Woven FabricHigher strength Than Knitted, non-wovenGood Dimensional StabilityLight and ThinProper StiffnessAir resistanceFine texture

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Some Related TermsWeft Yarn, Pick and FillingWarp Yarn, endFabric, Cloth, Clothes (garment), Clothing (something covering our body), and Cloth (fabric)Fiber, Yarn and Fabric

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Woven Fabrics---plainPlain weave is the most basic of the three fundamental types of textile weaves. It is strong and hardwearing, used for fashion and furnishing fabrics.

In plain weave the warp and weft are aligned so that they form a simple criss-cross pattern. Each weft thread crosses the warp threads by going over one, then under the next, and so on. The next weft thread goes under the warp threads that its neighbor went over, and vice versa.

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one-up-one-down weave ;

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Face and back same;

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equally visible on the

surface ;

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High frequency of interlacing;

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equal tension and spacing.

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one-up-one-down weave ;

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Face and back same;

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equally visible on the

surface ;

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High frequency of interlacing;

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equal tension and spacing.

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It is snag resistant;

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It wrinkles;

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It has lower tear strength;

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It is strong and hardwearing;

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It is relatively airtight.

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It is snag resistant;

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It wrinkles;

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It has lower tear strength;

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It is strong and hardwearing;

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It is relatively airtight.

Structure CharacteristicsStructure Characteristics PropertiesProperties

Structure and Properties of Plain Weave

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Woven Fabrics---Twill

Twill is a type of fabric woven with a pattern of diagonal parallel ribs.

It is made by passing the weft threads over one warp thread and then under two or more warp threads, over one and under two or more, and so on, with a "step" or offset between rows that creates the characteristic diagonal pattern.

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It has fewer interlacing than plain weave. It is durable and heavier. It is wrinkle resistant. It is resistant to showing soil and soiling. The twill direction is defined as left or right hand or variation. It is more raveling than plain weave. It is more pliable drape and hand than plain weave.

Characteristics of Twill Weave

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Drill Jeans Jersey Serge Surah Ticking Tussah Worsted cheviot

Fabrics with Twill Weave

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Woven Fabrics ---Satin/sateenSatin weave is one of the three important textile weaves. The satin weave is distinguished by its lustrous appearance, its 'silkiness' or its 'satin' feel. Satin itself is a type of fabric, but must be distinguished from the Satin weave.

The satin weave is characterized by four or more cool fill or weft yarns floating over a warp yarn or vice versa, four warp yarns floating over a single weft yarn. This explains the 'floating' of the appearance.

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Characteristics of Satin/ Sateen Weave

It is flat and lustrous with a smooth surface. The surface slides easily for linings. The long floats like 7/1 or 11/1 and filament fabrics are subject to snagging and is poor resistant to abrasion. The shorter floats like 4/1 or ¼ and spun fabrics may be tough, compact and durable with low luster.

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Fabrics With Satin Weave

Crepe-back satin, satin-back crepe, crepe-satin, or satin-crepe - Satin weave on the face and a crepe effect on the back Satin-back Crepe - A reversible cloth with satin on one side and crepe on the other. Satin-back - Satin on one side and anything on the other. Double-face Satin - Yarn woven with two warps and one filling, to simulate a double satin construction. Has satin on both sides.

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PART-- Knitted Fabrics

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Features of KnittingKnitting is faster than weaving, but slower than non-wovenKnitting can be divided into weft and warp knittingWeft knit:

Rib knit, Plain/Single/Jersey Knit, Interlock knit

Warp Knit: Tricot, stable structure, controlled elasticity, high strength, Raschel: thicker yarn, lace like pattern, more versatile,

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Some Basic TermsWales: vertical columns of stitches in the knitted fabricsCourse: horizontal rows of stitchesGauge or cut, fineness of stitch, measured as the number of needles in a specific space on the needle bar, the higher the gauge, the finer the fabric

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Knitted FabricsKnitting is a method by which thread or yarn may be turned into cloth. Knitting consists of loops called stitches pulled through each other. The active stitches are held on a needle until another loop can be passed through them.

Knitting may be done by hand or by machine. By hand, there are numerous styles and methods. Flat knitting, which is done on two straight needles, produces a length of cloth, while circular knitting, which is done on circular or double-pointed needles, produces a seamless tube.

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Structure Characteristics of KnittingUnlike woven fabrics, where strands usually run straight horizontally and vertically, yarn that has been knitted follows a loopy path along its row. There is no single straight line of yarn anywhere in the pattern, a knitted piece can stretch in all directions. This elasticity is unavailable from woven fabrics, which only stretch along the bias. Many modern stretchy garments, even as they rely on elastic synthetic materials for some stretch, also achieve at least some of their stretch through knitted patterns.

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Different Types of Knitted Fabrics

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Warp and Weft Knitted Fabrics

Warp Knitting

Loops are formed by many warp ( lengthwise direction ) yarns

Weft knitting One continuous yarns to form coursed across the fabric. Hand knitting is wefft knitting

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Characteristics of Knitted Fabrics

A Summary

High elasticity/ stretching propertyGood body conformability Soft hand feelingWrinkle-resistantGood Comfortable Large thicknessGood AbsorbencyMore breathable, but not wind-proofWarmth retention ( small air pockets)Bagging, Snagging and sagging and shrink more

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Properties of Knitted Fabrics: Elasticity

Compared to the other two classes, knitted fabrics are much more elastic, which accounts for their historical use in stockings and other clothing that requires changes in shape. Dresses and lingerie made from knitted fabrics can be more form-fitting than counterparts made from a woven fabric. Knit fabrics can stretch from 0 to 500%, depending on their material and knitting pattern. For comparison, woven fabrics typically deform only along their bias direction — i.e., at 45° to the warp and weft directions — and only by a small amount; A woven fabric made with a stretchable material such as Lycra may deform more than a stable knit.The elasticity of knitted fabrics gives them an excellent drape

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Properties of Knitted Fabrics: Thickness and Warmth

Thus, the turn of the cloth (i.e., the maximum curvature of a fold of the fabric) is generally finer in woven fabrics than in knitted fabrics. For this reason, knitted fabrics resist wrinkles better than wovens, but do not generally take a crease.Knitted fabrics are generally warmer and more comfortable than woven fabrics, which is why they are worn closer to the body. Knitted fabrics also give warmth because of the insulative air pockets contained in this type of construction. They are porous and provide “breathing” comfort because body movements cause the loops to expand and contract, thus creating close-fitting garments. However, unless the fabric is heavily napped or foam laminated, it is not windproof.Certain kind of knitted fabrics have one serious disadvantage: if one of the loops breaks, a hole is made, which starts a run.

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Knit hat, yarn, and knitting needles

Knitted Fabrics

Shape memory knitted fabric Manual knitting A modern knitting machine in

the process of weft knitting.

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Warp Knit Fabric Examples: Tricot

Two bar Tricot One Bar tricot

Properties: Porous, breathable, light weight, controllable elasticity, wrinkle resistantWide applications: lingerie, sleepwear, blouses, swimwear, dresses

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Examples of Weft KnitInterlock Knit Plain/Single/Jersey Knit Rib Knit

Slow productionStable structureNo CurlSame appearance in two sides

Large scale productionVery stretchableCurlDifferent appearance in two sides

Used at collar, cuff, edgedVery stretchableDo not curlCan be the same or Different appearance in two sides

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PART--III Non-woven Fabrics

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Warp Knit Fabrics1. Interlocking loops in a lengthwise

direction. 2. By several parallel yarns that form one

stitch for each yarn in each course3. Each Stitch in a course is made by a

different yarn

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Non-woven FabricNonwoven textiles are those which are neither wovennor knit, for example felt. Non-wovens are typically not strong (unless reinforced by a backing or densified).

Non-woven fabric is typically manufactured by putting small fibers together in the form of a sheet or web, and then binding them either mechanically, with an adhesive, or thermally.

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Definition

Non-woven fabrics are those made directly from fibers, or even from polymers. Nonwoven fabrics are formed from a fiber web in which fibers are held together by various bonding methods.

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Basic Steps in non-woven Fabric Production

Preparation of fiber webBonding the fiber sheets by appropriate methodsDrying and heatingOther process such as tufting and calendering

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Web FormingAll nonwoven fabrics are based on a fibrous web.Characteristics of the web determine the physical

properties of the final product. These characteristics depend largely on the web geometry, which is determined by the methods of web formation. Web geometry ---The predominant fiber direction, whether oriented or random is the key.

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Preparation of the Fiber WebParalell-laid--- has high strength in one direction, but weak in another.Cross-laid--- has improved, more evenly distributed distribution of strength. Random deposition has almost isotropic strength and other properties in all directions.

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Non-woven - Layering

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Bonding Methods of Non-woven Fabric

Adhesive bonding Thermal BondingNeedle punchingSpunlacingStitch bonding Spun bonded

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Features and Applications of Each Type of Non-woven

Fabrics

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Non-woven FabricsAdhesive bondingNeedle punchingSpun-laced, hydro entanglementStitch bondingSpun-bondedMelt BlowingElectrospinning

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Adhesive BondingAdhesive bonding methods usually use adhesive agents to hold fibers in a web together to provide strength. Adhesives can be added in powder form or in liquid form, in completely merged form or point or patterned form. The completely merged form gives very stiff handle and drape. They can be used for low cost carpets, scraps and for cases which need high stiffness

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Adhesive Bonded Fabrics

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Thermal Bonding

Thermal bonding methods require thermal plastic fibers Will be molten when temperature is higher than their glass transition temperature. These types of fabrics can be very stiff too. This method can also be regarded as adhesive bonding in which thermal plastic fibers are adhesive agents.

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Core /sheath bi-componet structure Widely used in thermally bonded nonwovens

Heated to a temperature between the softening point and the melting point of the sheath polymer

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Needle PunchingNeedle punching method uses barbed needles to get fibers entangled with each other. This method can produce very thick products for various applications. This may be a cheap method to produce matt, carpets, cashion and padding, insulation, blanket materials.

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Non-woven - Needlebed

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Non-woven - Bonding

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Needle Punched Fabrics

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Spun-lacingSpun-lacing process is similar to needle punching in principle. It does not use needles, but water jet to get fibers entangled with each other and provides strength to the fabric. Spun-lacing method needs very high quality water, but can produce thin fabrics with excellent soft hand feeling and high quality and clean medical textiles such as wipes, and sponges, interlinings, coated fabric substrates. It is also a very good method to produce man-made suedeCompared with needle punching, spun-lacing is more difficult to produce very thick products. It can produce a variety of fabrics for apparel applications too.

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Fabrics Made by Using Spun Laced Method

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Stitch BondingIn making stitch bonded non-woven fabrics, a web made of filament or staple fibers can be stitched together by using equipment similar to warp knitting machines.Fabrics made of staple fibers are called Maliwatt, those of filament fibers are called Malimore. Maliwatt and Malimore are trade names of two types of products by Malimore Company Ltd, East Germany. Fabrics can be used for apparel, curtains, lining and padding for winter wear etc.

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Stitch Bonded Fabric

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Spun-bonded

Spun bonded non-woven fabrics are made from thermoplastic polymers directly. In this process, polymers are extruded through spinnerets and laid down on one web supporter. After the web formed, pressure is exerted onto it and the fabric is formed. The strength of this type of fabrics is the largest. This type of fabrics can be used for tablecloth, bags, packing materials for advanced products, labels and maps, automotive interior furnishings.

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Spun Bonded Fabrics

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Melt BlowingA process for producing fibrous webs or articles directly from polymers or resins using high-velocity air or another appropriate force to attenuate the filaments.

The MB process is one of the newer and least developed

nonwoven processes.

It is used almost exclusively to produce microfibers rather

than fibers the size of normal textile fibers.

MB microfibers generally have diameters in the range of 2

to 4 µm,

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Melt Blowing

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Applications of Melt Blown Non-wovens

1) Sanitary productsMB products are used in three types of sanitary protection products –

Feminine sanitary napkin,MB diaper top sheet, and Disposable adult incontinence absorbent products.

2) Oil adsorbentsMB materials in variety of physical forms are designed to pick up oily materials. The best known application is the use of sorbents to pick up oilfrom the surface of water, such as encountered in an accidental oil spill and for mats in machine shops and in industrial plants.

3) ApparelThe apparel applications of melt-blown products fall into three market segments:

Thermal insulation applications takes advantage of microvoids in the structure filled with quiescent air, resulting in excellent thermal insulationdisposable industrial apparel and substrate for synthetic leather.

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Electrospinning

Nanofiber web

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Electrospinning uses an electric field to draw a polymer melt or polymer solution from the tip of a capillary to a collector.

A voltage is applied to the polymer, which causes a jet of the solution to be drawn toward a grounded collector.

The fine jets dry to form polymeric fibers, which can be collected on a web.

Nanofibers with diameters in the range of 40-2000 nm (0.04 – 2 microns) can be made.

Electrospinning

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Electrospun Nanofibers

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Examples of Nanofiber Webs

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Tom’s question?

Which fabric type does uniform belong to？Woven fabric (plain weave)

Which fabric type does sports wear belong to ？

Knitted fabric

A piece of cake!

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Reading List1. Textiles : fibre to fabric, Corbman,

Bernard P. New York: Gregg Division, McGraw-Hill, 1983.

2. Understanding fabrics : from fiber to finished cloth, Gioello, Debbie Ann. New York : Fairchild Publications, 1982.

3. Textiles : concepts and principles, Elsasser, Virginia Hencken. Albany: Delmar Publishers, 1997.

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Reading List4. 浙江絲綢工學院, 織物組織與紋織學.北

京

: 紡織工業出版社, 1987.5. 王淮, 楊瑞豐,服裝材料與應用, 遼寧科

學技術出版社, 2005.6. 楊堯棟. 針織物組織與產品設計. 北京

:

中國紡織出版社, 1998.7. 王延熹.非織造布生產技術. 北京

: 紡織

工業出版社, 1987.