send us your feedback our readers author...

317 Behind the Scenes

OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interest-ing anecdotes: Grzegorz, Julian, Wojciech, Ashley Adrian, Asli Akarsakarya, Simone Appert, Alik Arzoumanian, Marc Bokma, Ido Brickner, Yuliono Budianto, Silvio Calvi, Linda Camp-bell, Erik Carapetian, Francisco Chong Luna, Sonny Colin, Roslyn Coltheart, Greg Corn-well, Marco Crisafulli, Andrew Cullen, Paddy Davison, Michiel De Graaff, Evan Decorte, C Denton Brown, Janine Downes, Randell Drum, Michael Falvella, Andreas Fertin, Richard Frank, Damien Galanaud, Kees Geselschap, John Gilchrist, Steve Goldberg, Irena Grzegorczyk, Xavier Guezou, Rainer Hamet, Graham Hamilton, Judith Harrison, Jim Holroyd, Henry Howard, Mabon John, Benzi Kahana, Patricia Knox, Dvir Koenig-stein, Jorg Lauberbach, Maxime Leloup, Ed Lunken, Petter Magnusson, Marcel Medek, Alex Miller, Andy Mitchell, Giorgio Mori, Ilka Morse, Alejandra Navarro Rueda, Emily Nel-son, Greg O’Hern, Kimberly Palmer, Esther Parigger, Mario Pavesi, Wladimiro Perez Ortigosa, Niklas Petersen, Vieri Riccardo Salvadori, Steve Rigden, Taguhi Sahakyan, Tony Schneider, Ben Schottland, Barbara Schumacher, Christopher Sexton, Betty Smallwood, Silvia Spies, Lene Steen, Victoria

Stefaniuk, Farid Subhanverdiyev, Valeria Superno Falco, Laurel Sutherland, Andreas Sveen Bjørnstad, Trevor Sze, Ann Tulloh, Gerbert Van Loenen, Martin Van Der Brugge, Robert Van Voorden, Wouter Van Vliet, Michael Weilguni, Arlo Werkhoven, Barbara Yoshida, Ian Young, Anne Zouridakis.

AUTHOR THANKS John Noble Special thanks to Sofo Ghoghoberidze, everybody at Dodo’s, William Dunbar, Tuta Balavadze, Hans Gutbrod, Tim Blauvelt, Roza Shukvani and family, Regina Jegorova, Giorgi Gardava, Roma Tordia, Besik Basaria, David Luashvili, Jason Thake, Felix Tomlinson, Miri and Itamar Shinin, Svea and Joerk, Funky Henning, Christian Portelatine, Anthony Schierman, Eka Chvritidze, Dan Bingham-Pankratz, Kate Ortenzi; Natalia Bakhtadze, Tamuna Giorgadze, Nutsa Totadze (GNTA); Information Centres all around Georgia; Alan Saff ery, Nutsa Abramishvili (EPI); and, above all, supercolleagues Danielle Systermans and Michael Kohn.

Michael Kohn In Armenia, thanks to Gevorg Babayan, Gohar Mirzoyan, Nick Wagner, Taguhi Sahakyan, Gor Aleksanyan, Lennart Lehmann, Nyree Abrahamian, Syuzanna Azoyan and the staff

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travell ers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well- travell ed team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.

Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

318at Armenia Now. Cheers to fellow travellers Franziska Laue, Edward Cheng, Steve Gibbs and Chris Khachatourian. Armenia’s gang of Peace Corps volunteers deserves special recognition for guiding me in their respective cities, in particular: Beckey (Yeghegnadzor), Greg (Stepanavan), Hayley (Sevan), Mary (Dsegh), Lizzie (Kapan), Patrick (Goris) and Zoe (Goris). My love as always to Baigal and Molly.

Danielle Systermans Many, many, many thanks to Ian, Saadat, Narmin, Vasif, Micah and Mason, Jeff rey, Taleh, Zaur, Fiona, Tanya in Ivanovka, Mark, Rebecca, Dustin and Kelly in Ganja, Humbat and his $100,000 BMW, Aliheydar, Rustam, Askar and friends in Amanevi, Larissa and

Sandy, Ilqar, Martin, Andrei and friends, Sander, John, Zahid, Samid, Mevlud and Kha-led in Laza, the Haciyev and Ismailov families, and to Mark Elliott for 15 memorable years.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Fin-layson BL & McMahon TA (2007), ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classifi cation’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44.

Cover photograph: Ananuri fortress, Georgia (p84), W Korall, Imagebroker.

Many of the images in this guide are available for licensing from Lonely Planet Images: www.lonelyplanetimages.com.

THIS BOOK This 4th edition of Lonely Planet’s Georgia, Armenia & Azerbaijan guidebook was researched and written by John Noble, Michael Kohn and Danielle Systermans. The previous edition was also written by John, Michael and Danielle. This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet’s London office, and produced by the following:

Commissioning Editors Katie O’Connell, Glenn van der Knijff

Coordinating Editors Jackey Coyle, Tasmin Waby Coordinating Carto-grapher Alex Leung Coordinating Layout De-signer Kerrianne Southway Managing Editors Imogen Bannister, Angela Tinson Senior Editor Susan Paterson Managing Cartographers Adrian Persoglia, Amanda Sierp Managing Layout Designer Chris Girdler Assisting Editors Janet Austin, Carolyn Bain, Kate Evans, Paul Harding, Andi Jones, Kristin

Odijk, Alison Ridgway, Sophie Splatt Assisting Cartographers Julie Dodkins, Xavier di Toro, James Leversha, Jacquie Nguyen Cover Research Naomi Parker Internal Image Research Aude Vauconsant Language Content Branislava VladisavljevicThanks to Helen Christinis, Ryan Evans, William Gourlay, Imogen Hall, Kate James, Yvonne Kirk, Trent Paton, Kirsten Rawl-ings, Nelly Rukhadze, Gerard Walker

NO

TES319

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

320

AAbanotubani 33, 41Abashidze, Aslan 72Abkhazia 68-74, 109, 111, 280, 285Abşeron Peninsula 224-7, 226accommodation 294-5, see also

individual locationsapartment rentals 135online bookings 295

Achara, see Adjaraactivities 14, 16-19, see also individual

activitiesArmenia 193-4Azerbaijan 266Georgia 116

Adishi 81Adjara 72-9Agarak 186Agdam 275Aghitu 180Aghmashenebeli, Davit, see David

the BuilderAğrı Dağ, see Mt Araratagriculture 289air travel

to/from the region 300-1, 302, 304

within the region 305Ajara, see AdjaraAjaria, see AdjaraAkhali Shuamta 97Akhaltsikhe 106-7Akhtala 169Alaverdi 168Alexandropol 170altitude sickness 309Amberd 150amusement parks

Batumi Ferris wheel 72Borjomi Mineral Water Park 102Haghtanak Park 132 Qabaland 237

Stepanakert 270Tbilisi Ferris wheel 38

Ananuri 84Anhogin, David 165-6animals 290archaeological sites

Armaztsikhe-Bagineti 56Erebuni Fortress 134İmamzadә 255-6Naxçivan City 255Nokalakevi 67Old Gabala 237Tigranakert 275-6Uplistsikhe 59Vani 64-5

architecture 14, 291-2 Areni 173-4Argishti I 124, 134, 145Arkhoti 88Armash Fish Ponds 152Armenia 23, 121-97, 123

accommodation 121, 193activities 193-4airlines 302architecture 291-2arts 190-1business hours 194cinema 190, 280climate 121, 295costs 122culture 187-8, 280-1, 287-8customs regulations 194dangers 194 drinks 192economy 280-1environment 289-90exchange rates 122food 121, 192highlights 123history 188-90, 282-6internet resources 122language 311-12menu decoder 195money 122, 196names 187northern Armenia 152-73, 152-3planning information 121-2politics 187-8, 280-1population 280postal services 196religion 281southern Armenia 173-86telephone services 197travel seasons 121travel to/from 122travel within 305-7visas 122Yerevan 9, 124-45, 126-7, 130-1, 9

art galleries, see museumsArt-Gene Festival 17, 41arts

Armenia 190-1Azerbaijan 262-3Georgia 112-14

Artsruni, Vahan 191Aşәbi Keyf 258Ashot I 188Ashotsk 170-1Ashtarak 149-50Astara 254Ateşgah Mәbәdi 224-5atheism 288ATMs 12Atsunta Pass 90Avlabari 34-5Ayas Nautical Research Club 154Azerbaijan 23, 198-268, 200-1

accommodation 198, 264, 266activities 266airlines 304-5architecture 292arts 262-3Baku (Bakı) 202-24, 203, 204,

208-9, 10border areas 259business hours 266central Azerbaijan 248-50cinema 280climate 198, 295 costs 199culture 280-1, 287-8drinks 263-4economy 260, 280-1environment 289-90exchange rates 199food 242, 263, 264highlights 200-1history 260-1, 282-6language 312-13menu decoder 265money 267Naxçivan 254-9northern Azerbaijan 228-33, 229northwestern Azerbaijan 233-48,

229planning information 198-9politics 260, 280-1population 280public holidays 267religion 281southern Azerbaijan 250-4, 251telephone services 267travel seasons 198travel to/from 199travel within 305-7visas 199, 268

INDEX A

-D321

Azerbaijan Democratic Republic 261Azokh cave 275

BBabluani, Gela 114Bagrat III 109Bakounts, Axel 185Baku (Bakı) 202-24, 203, 204,

208-9, 10accommodation 211, 213-14climate 295dangers 221drinking 218-19entertainment 219-20festivals & events 210-11food 214-18history 202internet access 221medical services 221metro 225Old City 10, 204-6, 211, 213, 215-16,

218, 204, 10shopping 220-1sights 204-10travel to/from 221-3 travel within 223-4walking tours 212, 212

Baku Commissars 165Bakuriani 105-6Balakәn 247-8ballooning 41Baratashvili, Nikoloz 113bargaining 196Barisakho 89bathhouses

Abanotubani 33, 41Amberd 150Iranian 273Quba 230Taza Bay Hamami 207Roman 145

bathrooms 13, 298Batumi 72-8, 74beaches 78

Abşeron 227, 226Adjara 72-3 Astara 254Gagra 71Gonio 78Lәnkәran 251Nabran 233Noratus 155Sevan 153Şixov 227

Becho 83-4beer 115, 263Bәhlulzadә, Sәttar 262Berd 162Beşbarmaq Dağ 228

bicycle travel, see cyclingbirds 290bird-watching 116, 290Blue Horn poets 113books 281, 283, 284, 285, see also

literatureborder areas 259border crossings 303, 305Borjomi 102-4Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park

104-5brandy 15, 192, 263, 288

Yerevan Brandy Company 128-9

BTC pipeline 260budget 12, 27, 122, 199Buduq 231bungee jumping 41, 44bus & minibus travel 301-3, 305-6business hours, see individual

locationsByurakan 150-1

CCar 247car travel 13, 303, 306cathedrals, see churches &

cathedrals cave cities 292, see also monasteries

& conventsUplistsikhe 59-60Vanis Qvabebi 107Vardzia 107-8

Cavid, Hüseyn 256caving 176cell phones 13, 298

Armenia 197Azerbaijan 267Georgia 49, 119Nagorno-Karabakh 273

Charkviani, Irakli 112Chavchavadze, Ilia 113Chavchavadze, Prince Alexander

96-7Chesho 92children, travel with 295

health 309Christianity 188-9, 260-1, 277, 283,

288holy dates 296

churches & cathedralsAkhali Shuamta & Dzveli

Shuamta 97Alaverdi Cathedral 95Albanian 244Anchiskhati Basilica 33Ateni Sioni 60Bagrati Cathedral 60Church of Simon the Zealot 71Echmiadzin 148

Jvari Church 55-6Kasagh Gorge churches 149-50Noravank 174Samtavro Church 56Surp Gayane Church 148-9Surp Grigor Lusavorich Cathedral

129, 155Surp Hripsime 149, 291Surp Sargis Church 129Surp Shogahat Church 149Svetitskhoveli Cathedral 54-5Tsminda Sameba Cathedral 34Tsminda Sameba Church 88, 2-3, 9Vankasar Church 276, 282Zoravar Church 127Zvartnots Cathedral 147, 291

cinema 280Armenia 190Azerbaijan 262Georgia 113-14

Çirax Qala 228climate 12, 16-19, 295, see also

individual regionscharts 295

climbing, see mountaineeringcognac, see brandyconservation 152-3consulates, see embassiesconvents, see monasteries &

conventscoppersmithing 234corruption 109, 111, 188, 281, 285-6country codes 13 Culfa 259culture 280-1, 287-8customs regulations 266cycling 305

Ddance 3

Armenia 191Georgia 112

dangers, see safetyDartlo 92Dashnaks 189dates, religious 296Datvisjvari Pass 89David the Builder 64, 95, 283Davit Bek 185Davit Gareja 10, 100-1, 11daylight saving 12De Lucchi, Michele 33, 35, 292Debed Canyon 167-9Dilijan 157-8disabilities, travellers with 298discounts 294drama 191

High Fest 18-19Rustaveli Theatre 48


INDEX D

-H

322drinks 15, see also brandy, wine

Armenia 192Azerbaijan 263-4chacha 99beer 115, 263Georgia 115oghee 161

Dsegh 167-8Duman, Nikol 276Dumbadze, Nodar 113DVDs 294Dzveli Shuamta 97

EEchmiadzin 148ecology 289-90economy 280-1Әfәndiyev, Elçin 262 Egoyan, Atom 190Eldarov, Omar 262-3Әliyev, Heydar 260, 261, 281, 286Әliyev, İlham 281, 286electricity 294, 295embassies 295-6

Armenia 194Azerbaijan 267Georgia 116-18

emergencies 13, 113, 141, 199in Armenian 312in Azeri 313in Georgian 314in Russian 311

entry points 303environmental issues 289-90, 300Erekle II 284ethnographic museums

Ethnographic Museum Complex 225

Ijevan Local Lore Museum 161-2Museum of History &

Ethnography 80Open-Air Museum of

Ethnography 39Ushguli 83

etiquette 280-1events, see festivals & eventsexport permits 220

FFellini, Federico 113festivals & events 16-19, 296, see also

individual locationsGabala International Music

Festival 18Kakheti Grape Harvest 18

film, see cinemaFizuli (Varanda) 275food 15, see also individual locations

Armenia 121, 192, 15Azerbaijan 242, 263, 264Georgia 114-15khachapuri 45menu decoders 117, 195, 265piti 242

fortressesAmberd 150Ananuri 84Boloraberd 175Erebuni Fortress & Museum 134Gonio-Apsarus Fortress 78Gori Fortress 58Gremi 96Lori Berd 165-6Nariqala Fortress 34Nukha Fortress 238Shah Bulart 275-6Tmogvi Castle 107

Fountains Sq 206Füzuli, Mehmed bin Suleyman 262

GGabala International Music Festival 18Gagra 71-2Gamsakhurdia, Konstantin 113Gamsakhurdia, Zviad 32, 111, 285Garni Temple 145Gavar 155-6gay travellers 296Geghard Monastery 8, 145-6, 8Gәncә 248-50, 249Gәncәvi, Nizami 248, 262geography 289geology 289Georgia 22, 26-120, 28-9

Abkhazia 68-74, 109, 111, 280, 285accommodation 26, 115-16Adjara 72-9airlines 301architecture 291-2arts 112-14cinema 280climate 26, 295costs 27culture 280-1, 287-8dialling codes 119drinks 114-15 economy 280-1environment 289-90exchange rates 27food 26, 114-15Great Caucasus 79-92highlights 28-9

history 109-12, 282-6Kakheti 92-100language 313-14media 118menu decoder 117money 118planning information 26-7politics 108-9, 280-1population 280religion 281Samtskhe-Javakheti 101-9,

103street names 34Tbilisi 30-54, 30-1, 36-7, 6-7travel seasons 26travel to/from 27travel within 305-7visas 27, 119-20western Georgia 60-8, 61

Georgian Military Hwy 84-9Ghshlagh 276Giorgi III 107, 108Giorgi the Brilliant 110glaciers

Chalaadi 81Gergeti 87Svaneti 83

glasnost 190, 285Golden Fleece 65Gonio 78Gorbachev, Mikhail 285Gori 57-9Goris 180-3, 182Goshavank 160Göy Göl Town 250grape harvest 96Great Caucasus 79-92Gudauri 84Gül, Abdullah 187Gyumri 169-73, 171

HHacı Cәfәr 292Hadid, Zaha 292Hadrut 275Haghartsin 159-60Harichavank 173health 308-9Heydar Әliyev Cultural Centre 292Heyerdahl, Thor 244High Fest 18-19hiking 290, see also walking

Azerbaijan 231, 232, 239Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park

104-5Juta 87-8Nagorno-Karabakh 273northern Armenia 157, 159, 162

INDEX H

-M323

Oreti Lake 91southern Armenia 184

history 282-6, see also individual locations

hitching 306Hitler, Adolf 261holidays


holy days 296horse riding 14hypothermia 309

IIjevan 160-1Ikaltoeli, Arsen 95İlandağ 258, 258-9İlisu 244-5insect bites & stings 309insurance 296

car 303health 308

internet access 296internet resources 13, 122

government travel advice 297health 308

Iprari 81Islam 260, 277, 283-4, 288

holy dates 296İsmayıllı 233-4itineraries 20-1, 27, 122, 199Ivanovka 236

JJames Bond Oil Field 227Jason, Prince of Thessaly 65Javakhishvili, Mikheil 113Jermuk 178-9Juta 87-8Jvari Church 55, 291Jvari Pass 84

KKakheti 92-100Kakheti Grape Harvest 18Kancheli, Gia 112Kapan 185-6Karabakh War 17, 132, 134, 179,

280, 285Karavansaray (Şәki) 239, 292Karvachar 276Kazbegi 8, 84-6, 9Kazbegi, Alexander 85, 113Kelbajar 276Kәlәxana 233Ketevan, Queen 96

Khachaturian, Aram 190Khalilullah I, Shirvanshah 202 Khan Haci Çәlәbi 238Khevsureti 89-90, 90Khndzoresk 183Khor Virap Monastery 151King Giorgi III 107Kiş 244Kochar, Yervand 125-7, 129Kocharian, Robert 190Kolkheti National Park 66Komitas 189, 190Korsha 89Koruldi Lakes 81Kumayri 292Kutaisi 60-3, 62Kvariati 78

LLagodekhi Protected Areas 101Lahıc 234-6Lake Ritsa 71Lake Sevan 152-3landscape 15languages 310-16

Armenian 195, 311-12Azeri 265, 312-13Georgian 117, 313-14Russian 310-11

Laza 231, 232-3legal matters 297Lәkit 244Lenin, Vladimir 35, 57, 134, 189, 255Lәnkәran 251-3, 252Lerik 253-4lesbian travellers 296literature

Armenian 125Azeri 262Georgian 113Matenadaran 125 Nizami Literature Museum 206

local transport 306longevity 254Lori Berd 165

MMaiden’s Tower 206maps 297


Marmashen 173marshrutka travel, see bus & minibus

travelMartuni 156, 275Masallı 250-1Matenadaran 125 Mayraberd (Askeran) 275

measurements 294medical services 308-9Meghri 186Melkonian, Monte 275menu decoders

Armenia 195Azerbaijan 265Georgia 117

Mәrdәkәn 225-6, 227Mәrәzә 233Mestia 79-81Mikoyan, Anastas & Artyom 169mineral springs

Borjomi 102 Samegrelo 67

minibus travel, see bus & minibus travel

Mirzaani 100mobile phones 13, 298

Armenia 197Azerbaijan 267Georgia 119Nagorno-Karabakh 273

Molokan villages 157Möminә Xatun 255, 292monasteries & convents

Akhtala Monastery 169Armenian 11Bgheno-Noravank 185Bodbe Convent 100Dadivank 276Davit Gareja, 11Gandzasar 276Geghard Monastery 8, 145-6, 8Gelati 64-5Goshavank 161Haghartsin 159-60Haghpat Monastery 169Harichavank 173Hayravank 155Hnevank 166Holy See of Echmiadzin 148Hovhannavank 149Ikalto Monastery 95Kecharis Monastery 156Khor Virap Monastery 151Kobayr Convent 167Lavra 100-1Marmashen 173Martvili Monastery 67Motsameta 63-4Nekresi Monastery 96Noravank 174Novy Afon Monastery 71Saghmosavank 149-50Sanahin Monastery 168-9Sapara Monastery 108Sevanavank 153Shamshadin 162


INDEX M

-R

324monasteries & convents continued

Surp Grigor Bardzrakash Monastery 167

Tatev Monastery 184, 11Tegher Monastery 150Tsitsernavank Monastery 277

money 12, 297Mongols 110monkey colony 70Morchiladze, Aka 113mosques

Batumi 73Bibi Heybәt Mosque 227Blue Mosque 129Cümә Mәscid 230Cümә Mosque 292Qәbәlә 292

motorcycle travel 303mountaineering 290

Azerbaijan 235Mt Kazbek 89

Mt Aragats 151Mt Ararat 259, 289Mt Babadağ 235Mt Chaukhi 87Mt Kazbek 89Mt Mtatsminda 38Mt Ushba 81Mtirala National Park 78-9 Mtskheta 54-7, 56 muğam 262Mughni 149museums 35, see also ethnographic

museumsArtsakh State Museum 270Cafesjian Museum 124Carpet Museum 207Erebuni Fortress & Museum 134Historical Museum 207Hovhannes Tumanyan Museum 127Ivane Javakhishvili Samtskhe-

Javakheti History Museum 106-7Kutaisi Historical Museum 61Martiros Sarian Museum 125Matenadaran 125MIM 207-10Museum of Fallen Soldiers 270Museum of Georgia 35Museum of History &

Ethnography 80Museum of Modern Art 129Museum of Russian Art 125National Art Gallery 128National Folk Art Museum of

Armenia 125National Gallery 35

Niko Pirosmanashvili State Museum 100

Nikol Duman Memorial Museum 276

Nizami Literature Museum 206Nobel Technological Museum 73NPAK 129Sergei Paradjanov Museum 129Sighnaghi Museum 97Stalin Museum 57-8State Art Museum 207State Museum of Armenian

History 128State Museum of Wood-Carving

129Stepantsminda History Museum 85Tsitsernakaberd (Armenian

Genocide Memorial & Museum) 133-4

Uzunömürlülәr Muzeyi 253Yerevan Museum 129Yervand Kochar Museum 125-7

musicArmenian 190-1Azeri 262Georgian 112muğam 262rabiz 191

Mustafazadeh, Aziza 262Mustafazadeh, Vaqif 262Mütәllibov, Ayaz 261 Mutso 90

NNabran 233Nagorno-Karabakh 23, 269-78, 270

conflict 260, 261, 274, 275, 277, 280, 285

Nardaran 226 Nariqala Fortress 34national parks & reserves 64, 66,

104-5, 228, 290Naxçivan 254-9Naxçivan City 255-8, 256Nәrimanov, Nәriman 261Noah’s Ark 258, 282Noratus 155Noravank 174Nova, Sayat 190, 284Novy Afon 71

OOdzun 168Oğuz 237-8Ohanavan 149Old Gabala 237opening hours, see business hours

under individual locationsOrdubad 259

Oshakan 150outdoor cafes 139

Ppalaces

Palace of the Shirvanshahs 206Xan Sarayi 238, 255

Paliashvili, Zakaria 112Paradjanov, Sergei 113, 129, 190, 284paragliding 41perestroika 261, 285Peter the Great 284phone services, see telephone

servicesphotography 297-8Pipoyan, Lilit 191Pirosmani 97, 100Pirosmani, Niko 113Pirqulu 233planning 12-13, see also individual

regionscalendar of events 16-19Georgia, Armenia & Azerbaijan’s

regions 22-3itineraries 20-1, 27, 122, 199travel seasons 12

politics 280-1Armenia 187-8Azerbaijan 260Georgia 108-9

Poti 65-6Prometheus cave 64Pshavela, Vazha 113public holidays, see holidayspuppet theatre 48, 207Putin, Vladimir 112

QQala 225Qarabağlar 259Qax 244Qazimov, Alim 262Qәbәlә 236-7Qızılqaya 232Qobustan 227-8Qriz 231Quba 9, 230-1Qum 244

Rrabiz 191 rafting 41, 290religion 288, see also Christianity,

IslamRomanov, Duke Mikhail 102Rose Revolution 32, 111, 286Roshka 89Russo-Turkish War 284-5

INDEX R

-V325

Rustaveli 35-6, 42-3, 46Rustaveli, Shota 95, 113

SSaakashvili, Mikheil 111-12, 281,

286, 286safety 297, 298Sahakyan, Bako 277Şahdağ 232Salaxov, Tahir 262Şamaxı 233Samegrelo 67 Samtskhe-Javakheti 101-9, 103Sardarapat 149Sargsyan, Serzh 187, 281Sarian, Martiros 125Sarushen 275Sataplia Nature Reserve 64sea travel 303-5Şәki 238-44, 240Seljuks 283Sevan 153-5Shahumian, Stepan 165Shamshadin 162Shatili 89Shenaqo 92Shevardnadze, Eduard 111, 285Shia Islam 288Shushi 273-4Sighnaghi 97-100Şirvan National Park 228Sisian 179-80Şixov Beach 227Skhtorashen 275skiing 170, 290

Bakuriani 105Gudauri 84Hatsvali Ski Station 80

smoking 294Sno Valley 87-8South Ossetia 85, 112, 280, 285,

286spa cures 178, 266St George 110St Gregory the Illuminator 151St Mesrop Mashtots 150, 188St Nino 54, 88, 100, 109Stalin, Joseph 35, 57-8, 59, 110, 251,

261, 277Stepanakert 270-3, 272Stepanavan 165-7Stepantsminda, see Kazbegistone towers 79

Maiden’s Tower 206Zemo Omalo 91

Sturua, Robert 114Sukhumi 69-70Sumqayıt 228supras 15, 112, 115

Suraxanı 224-5Surp Hripsime Church 149, 291Şüvәlan 225-6Svaneti 6, 79-83, 80, 7 Svetitskhoveli Cathedral 54-5swimming 41synagogues

Akhaltsikhe 106 Quba 230 Oğuz 238Tbilisi 33

Syunik 173-86, 175

TTabidze, Galaktion 113Talin 171Tamar, Queen 35, 59, 64, 80, 107-8,

283-4Tanahati Vank 180Tatev 184-5Tatev Monastery 184, 11taxi travel 306Tbilisi 30-54, 30-1, 36-7, 6-7

accommodation 42-4activities 41climate 295drinking 47entertainment 47-8festivals & events 41-2food 44-6history 31-2internet access 49medical services 49shopping 48-9sights 32-9tourist offices 49-50travel agencies 50travel to/from 50-3travel within 53-4walking tours 40, 40

Tbilisoba 19, 41teahouses 15Tehlirian, Soghomian 189telephone services 298

Armenia 197Azerbaijan 267-8Georgia 119

Tengiz Abuladze 114-15Tergdaleulebi movement 113Ter-Petrossian, Levon 190theatre

Armenia 139, 191 Azerbaijan 219Georgia 48, 114High Fest 18-19

Tigranakert, 275-6Tigranes 283Tigranyan, Armen 190time 12

Timur (Tamerlane) 110Tinatin, Queen 97toilets 13, 298tourist information

Armenia 197Azerbaijan 268Georgia 119Nagorno-Karabakh 272

tours, see also travel agenciesarchaeological 142, 150bird-watching 50, 142quad bike 232walking 40, 134-5, 172, 212, 40,

212wine 98, 99, 236

train travel 306-7Transcaucasian Soviet Federated

Socialist Republic 285travel agencies

Armenia 142, 172Georgia 50, 91, 100

travel to/from the region 13, 301-5travel within the region 13, 305-7traveller’s diarrhoea 309Trdat III 151, 188trekking, see hiking, walkingTruso Valley 88-9Tsaghkadzor 156-7Tsereteli, Akaki 113Tsinandali 96-7Tsminda Sameba Church 88,

2-3, 9Tsunda 107Tumanyan, Hovhannes 127, 167Turashvili, Davit 113Turkey 187, 280, 282Tusheti 90-2, 90TV


UUdabno 101Ughtasar 180unexploded ordnance 278, 298Uplistsikhe 59-60Urartu kingdom 287urban centres 14Ushguli 82-3

Vvaccinations 308 Vahid 206Vake 38-9, 46Vanadzor 163-5, 164Vani 64-5Vank 276Vankasar Church 276, 282Vardenis 156


INDEX V

-Z

326Vardzia 107-8Vayk 177-8Vayots Dzor 173-7, 175Verisheen 181video systems 294visas 299


visual artsArmenia 191Azerbaijan 262-3Georgia 113

Vorontsov, Count 102Vurğun, Sәmәt 262

Wwalking 14, 116, see also hiking

Baku 212, 212Becho 83Dilijan 157Gergeti 87Lerik 254-5Mestia 81Tbilisi 40, 40Tusheti 91Ushguli 83Vardzia 107

war memorialsŞahidlәr Xiyabani (Martyr’s Lane)

207

Sardarapat 149Sisian 179

water, drinking 13, 141, 309weather 12, 16-19, 295, see also

individual regionswebsites see internet resources wildlife, see animals, birdswine 283

Armenia 160-1Azerbaijan 236Georgia 99tours 98, 99, 236

women in the region 3, 91, 153, 173, 182-3, 224, 280, 281, 288

Women’s Day 17women travellers 299work


World Heritage sites 291

XXan Sarayı 292Xınalıq 9, 231-2, 9

YYanar Bulağ 254Yanar Dağ 226-7Yeghegis 177Yeghegnadzor 174-6Yenokavan 162-3

Yerevan 9, 124-45, 126-7, 130-1, 9accommodation 135-7activities 134-5climate 295courses 135cultural centres 141drinking 138-9emergencies 141entertainment 139-40festivals & events 135food 137-8history 124internet access 141itineraries 128music 124-5postal services 141shopping 140-1sights 124-34tours 134-5travel to/from 142-4travel within 144-5

Yesenin, Sergei 225

ZZaqareishvili, Levan 114Zaqatala 245-7, 246Zenon 95Zorats Karer 180Zoroastrians 224Zugdidi 66-8Zvartnots Cathedral 147, 291

327

Beach

Diving/Snorkelling

Sleeping

Eating

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingSkiingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity/Course/Tour

BuddhistCastleChristianHinduIslamicJewishMonumentMuseum/GalleryRuinWinery/VineyardZooOther Sight

Entertainment

Shopping

DrinkingCafe

Post OfficeTourist Information

AirportBorder CrossingBus

CyclingFerryMetroMonorailParking

TaxiS-Bahn

Train/RailwayTramTube StationU-BahnOther Transport

Cable Car/Funicular

Walking TourDetour

Walking Tour

Path

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

PedestrianOverpass

Secondary

Unsealed Road

Tunnel

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

State/Province

Capital (National)Capital(State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

Beach/DesertCemetery(Christian)Cemetery (Other)Park/ForestSportsgroundSight (Building)Top Sight(Building)

River/CreekIntermittent RiverSwamp/MangroveReefCanalWaterDry/Salt/Intermittent LakeGlacier

LighthouseHut/Shelter

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

Sights

Activities, Courses& Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking

Information

Transport

Geographic

Hydrography

Areas

Boundaries

Population

RoutesMap Legend

These symbols will help you fi nd the listings you want:

1 Sights T Tours 6 Drinking

r Beaches z Festivals & Events 3 Entertainment

2 Activities 4 Sleeping 7 Shopping

C Courses 5 Eating 8 Information/Transport

These symbols give you the vital information for each listing:% Telephone Numbers W Wi-Fi Access g Bush Opening Hours s Swimming Pool f Ferryp Parking v Vegetarian Selection m Metron Nonsmoking E English-Language Menu b Subwaya Air-Conditioning c Family-Friendly t London Tubei Internet Access # Pet-Friendly j Tram

d Train Reviews are organised by author preference.

Look out for these icons:

o Our author’s recommendation

F No payment required

S A green or sustainable option

Our authors have nominated these places as demonstrating a strong commitment to sustainability – for example by supporting local communities and producers, operating in an environmentally friendly way, or supporting conservation projects.

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

send us your feedback our readers author...

Documents