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Page 1: scientist's satchel - Choly Knight · PDF file2 se es e? | | scienti atchel SEWING TUTORIAL scientist’s satchel DIFFICULTY: BEFORE YOU BEGIN: MAKES: MATERIALS & TOOLS • Matching

scientist's satchel

a sewing pattern by

Page 2: scientist's satchel - Choly Knight · PDF file2 se es e? | | scienti atchel SEWING TUTORIAL scientist’s satchel DIFFICULTY: BEFORE YOU BEGIN: MAKES: MATERIALS & TOOLS • Matching

2 sew desu ne?| www.cholyknight.com |

scientist’s satchelsewing tutorial

scientist’s satchel

difficulty:

before you begin:

makes:

materials & tools• Matchingsewingthread• Basicsewingtools(sewingmachine,

scissors,iron,needles,pins,fabricmarker,seamripper)

• 1yd.of45”wideor2/3yd.of60”widemediumtoheavyweightfabricformainbag(denimorcanvaswouldbegreat–Iinterfacedfauxsuede)

• ¾yd.oflightweightfabricforlining(Iusedquiltingcotton)

• 1”turnlock• 12”zipper(atleast)• Eithervariousfabricpaintsfor

paintingyourimageOR:• Appliquésupplies:

• 10”x10”scrapofappliquéfabricforgears(cottonorfelt)

• 10”x10”pieceoflightorheavydutyfusibleweb

onebagthatisabout12”wide,8”tall,and4”deep

Theconceptsareprettysimpletogetthrough,thoughthedetailscantakeawhile.

Thisprojectisasteampunkinspiredmessengerbagwithaverticalzipperedpocketonthefrontflap.Italsofeaturespaintedgearmotifs,aturnlockclosure,andextratopstitchingforanold,weatheredeffect.

4. Markthefabricpieceswiththeguide-linesfromthepattern

1. Printouttheprojectpattern,pages11-19

2. Assembletheprintedpatternpieces3. Layoutthepatternpiecesonyour

fabricandcutthemout

Page 3: scientist's satchel - Choly Knight · PDF file2 se es e? | | scienti atchel SEWING TUTORIAL scientist’s satchel DIFFICULTY: BEFORE YOU BEGIN: MAKES: MATERIALS & TOOLS • Matching

3 sew desu ne?| www.cholyknight.com |

scientist’s satchelsewing tutorial

FirstIappliedthegearmotiftothelowerleftflappiecefollowingthepattern

guideline.Iusuallylikedoingmyembellishmentsinappliqué,

butinthiscaseIoptedforpaintingitonsoIcouldusethiscopperfabricpaintIhave.

Tobeginconstructingthebagflap,startbylayeringyourzipperbetweenthe

lowerleftbagflappieceanditscorrespondingliningpiece.

Lineupthezippertapewiththerawedgesandsewthethreelayerstogether.You’llseethattheseamallowancesare¼”heretoaccountforhowyou’reusingthezippertapeasyourseamallowance.Makesurethetopofyourzipperislinedupalongthetopcornerofthelowerleftbagflappiece(theonecatty-cornertothecurvedcorner).Thisissoyourzippersliderisatthetopofyourbagwhentheprojectiscomplete.Whenyoufinish,pressthefabricsawayfromthezipper.

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Page 4: scientist's satchel - Choly Knight · PDF file2 se es e? | | scienti atchel SEWING TUTORIAL scientist’s satchel DIFFICULTY: BEFORE YOU BEGIN: MAKES: MATERIALS & TOOLS • Matching

4

scientist’s satchelsewing tutorial

sew desu ne?| www.cholyknight.com |

Fortheothersideofthezippertape,layerthezipperinbetweenthelowerrightbagflappieceanditscorrespondingliningpiece.Repeatthesameproce-dureasinstep2,sewingthethreelayerstogether,thenpressthefabricawayfromthezipper.

Nowforthetopsectionoftheflap.Layerthewholeofyourbagflapsofarbetweenthebagflaptoppieceanditscorrespondingliningpiece.Makesureyoumovethezippersliderdownandoutoftheway,thenlineuptherawedgesalongthetopoftheflap.Sewtheselayerstogether,goingthroughthezipperverycarefullyandslowly.Pressthefabricawayfromthezipperasbefore.

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Page 5: scientist's satchel - Choly Knight · PDF file2 se es e? | | scienti atchel SEWING TUTORIAL scientist’s satchel DIFFICULTY: BEFORE YOU BEGIN: MAKES: MATERIALS & TOOLS • Matching

5 sew desu ne?| www.cholyknight.com |

scientist’s satchelsewing tutorial

Nowtomakeafinishedpocket,we’readdingalining.Startbylayering

yourliningandflappiecesasfollows:oneflapliningpiece

(rightsideup),yourzipperedflappiece(rightsideup),thenlastlyyourfinalflapliningpiece(rightsidedown).

Lineupalltheedgesaroundtheperimeter.Sewaroundthisentireedgeexceptforthestraightedgealongthetop.Leavethisopenforturningtheflaprightsideoutwhenyoufinish.Trimoffanyexcesszipperteethfromboththebottomandtopwhenyou’redone.

Trimtheseamallowancesinthecornersoftheflap,thenturnitrightsideout.

Pokethecornerswithachopstickorsimilartooltoget

somedefinition,thenpresstheflapflat.Sinceyouhaveazipperintheflap,there’sagoodchanceitwon’tstayperfectlyflatduetothemetalorplasticteeth.SoItopstitchedaroundtheperimeteroftheflaptokeepeverythingflatandneat.Itookthisoppor-tunitytouseoneofmyspecialtystitchesthatlookslikeahand-sewnblanketstitch.Ithoughtitgaveamoreruggedlooktothebagoverall.

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Page 6: scientist's satchel - Choly Knight · PDF file2 se es e? | | scienti atchel SEWING TUTORIAL scientist’s satchel DIFFICULTY: BEFORE YOU BEGIN: MAKES: MATERIALS & TOOLS • Matching

6

scientist’s satchelsewing tutorial

sew desu ne?| www.cholyknight.com |

Ialsotooktheopportunitytotopstitchtheseamabovethezipperandtotherightofthezipper,bothforlooksandalsoisolatetheareathatthezipperopens,makingamorecompactpocket.Afterthis,yourflapiscomplete!

Nowontothebodyofthebag,whichisactuallymucheasier.Startbysewingthebottomseamsofthebagfrontandback.Dothisbyliningupthenotchededgesofthebagpiecesandsewingalongtheedge.

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Page 7: scientist's satchel - Choly Knight · PDF file2 se es e? | | scienti atchel SEWING TUTORIAL scientist’s satchel DIFFICULTY: BEFORE YOU BEGIN: MAKES: MATERIALS & TOOLS • Matching

7 sew desu ne?| www.cholyknight.com |

scientist’s satchelsewing tutorial

tip:

Nowweaddthesidesofthebag.Thisisdonebylininguptheleftandrightrawedgesofthe

bagfrontandbackwiththecurvededgeofthebagsidepieces.

Startbyliningupthetopcornersandworkingyourwayaround.Thecenterseamshouldmatchupwiththenotchatthebottomofthebagsides.Continuelininguptheedgesalongtheothersideuntiltheothercornersmatch.

Sewtheseedgestogethertocompleteonesideofyourbag.Repeatthisfortheotheredgeandtheremainingbagsidepiecetocompletetheotherside.

Tocreatethelining,simplyrepeatsteps8&9withyourliningpieces,butremembertoleaveanopeningasthepatternindicatesforturningthebagrightsideoutlater.

Instep9,cliptheseamallowancesofthebagfrontandbackbyabout½”tohelpthebagbodycurvearoundthebottomofthebagsides.

Withthebodyofthebagdone,what’snextisthe

straps!Fromyourstrappiece,foldunder5/8”from

eachlongsideandironthefoldsflat.Thenfoldtheentirestrapinhalflengthwise.Sewthesefoldededgestogetherwithanedgestitch(ormoredecorativetopstitchingasI’vedone).

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Page 8: scientist's satchel - Choly Knight · PDF file2 se es e? | | scienti atchel SEWING TUTORIAL scientist’s satchel DIFFICULTY: BEFORE YOU BEGIN: MAKES: MATERIALS & TOOLS • Matching

8

scientist’s satchelsewing tutorial

sew desu ne?| www.cholyknight.com |

Nextweneedtobastethestrapstothemainbag.Takeonerawedgeofyourstrapandcenteritalongthesideofyourbagwithrightsidesfacingtogether.Basteitinplacewithintheseamallowances.Repeatthiswiththeotherendofyourstrapandtheothersideofyourbag,beingsurenottotwistthestrapalongtheway.

We’regoingtobastetheflaptothebaginthesamemanner.Takeyourflappieceandwithrightsidestogether,centerthetopedgealongthebacksideofyourbag.Basteitinplacewithintheseamallowances.

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Page 9: scientist's satchel - Choly Knight · PDF file2 se es e? | | scienti atchel SEWING TUTORIAL scientist’s satchel DIFFICULTY: BEFORE YOU BEGIN: MAKES: MATERIALS & TOOLS • Matching

9 sew desu ne?| www.cholyknight.com |

scientist’s satchelsewing tutorial

Thebagisalmostcomplete!Nowtoreallyseeitcometogetherwe’llneed

tosewthetopseam.Nestlethemainbagintothelining

withrightsidestogetherandlineupthetoprawedgeallthewayaround.Yourseamsshouldmatchupasyougo.Sewaroundtheentireperimeter,andnotethatyou’llbesewingthroughthestrapsandtheflapasyougettothem.

Turnthebagrightsideoutfromtheopeninginthelining,thenpressthetop

seamsoit’sniceandcrisp.Ididsomemoretopstitching

alongthatseamtoaddtothelookofthebag.Iwouldsuggestyoudoitaswellatleasttokeeptheliningfrompeekingoutofyourbag^-^Whenthatiscomplete,gobackinsidethebagandsewtheopeningintheliningclosedeitherwithahand-sewnladderstitchorwithyourmachine.

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Page 10: scientist's satchel - Choly Knight · PDF file2 se es e? | | scienti atchel SEWING TUTORIAL scientist’s satchel DIFFICULTY: BEFORE YOU BEGIN: MAKES: MATERIALS & TOOLS • Matching

10

scientist’s satchelsewing tutorial

sew desu ne?| www.cholyknight.com |

Lastlyweinstalltheturn-lockonthefrontofthebag.Installthetopoftheturnlockinthemiddleofthegearmotifontheflapasthepatternguidelineindicates.Thebottomoftheturnlockisalsoindicatedonthepatternforthebagfront,butfolddownyourflapandchecktomakesuretheylineupinawaythatyoulike.Whenyou’resurethatyouhavetheplacementright,theninstallthebottomoftheturnlockonthebagfront.Nowgoonsomescienceyadventure,becauseYOU’REDONE!

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Page 11: scientist's satchel - Choly Knight · PDF file2 se es e? | | scienti atchel SEWING TUTORIAL scientist’s satchel DIFFICULTY: BEFORE YOU BEGIN: MAKES: MATERIALS & TOOLS • Matching

Scie

ntist

’s Sa

tche

lP

AT

TE

RN

www.cho

lykn

ight

.com

BAG F

LAP L

ININ

GCut

1 o

f lin

ing

fabric

5/8”

sea

m a

llow

ance

Pg. 1/9

Pg. 4/9

A1 A2

B1B2

Page 12: scientist's satchel - Choly Knight · PDF file2 se es e? | | scienti atchel SEWING TUTORIAL scientist’s satchel DIFFICULTY: BEFORE YOU BEGIN: MAKES: MATERIALS & TOOLS • Matching

Scientist’s SatchelP

AT

TE

RN

www.cho

lyknight.com

BAG F

LAP T

OP

Cut 1 of m

ain fab

ricCut 1 of lin

ing fab

ric5/8” seam

allowan

ce

Pg. 1/9 Pg. 2/9

Pg. 4/9 Pg. 5/9

A1 A2

B3B4

A3 A4

Page 13: scientist's satchel - Choly Knight · PDF file2 se es e? | | scienti atchel SEWING TUTORIAL scientist’s satchel DIFFICULTY: BEFORE YOU BEGIN: MAKES: MATERIALS & TOOLS • Matching

Scientist’s SatchelP A T T E R N

www.cholyknight.com

BAG SIDESCut 2 of main fabricCut 2 of lining fabric5/8” seam allowance

Scientist’s SatchelP

AT

TE

RN

www.cho

lyknight.com

BAG F

LAP T

OP

Cut 1 of m

ain fab

ricCut 1 of lin

ing fab

ric5/8” seam

allowan

ce

Pg. 2/9 Pg. 3/9

Pg. 5/9 Pg. 6/9

B5B6

A3 A4

Page 14: scientist's satchel - Choly Knight · PDF file2 se es e? | | scienti atchel SEWING TUTORIAL scientist’s satchel DIFFICULTY: BEFORE YOU BEGIN: MAKES: MATERIALS & TOOLS • Matching

Scientist’s SatchelP A T T E R N

www.cholyknight.com

BAG FLAP LOWER LEFTCut 1 of main fabricCut 1 of lining fabric5/8” seam allowance

Pg. 4/9

Pg. 7/9

B1B2

D1D

2

C1 C2

gear applique/paint placement

Page 15: scientist's satchel - Choly Knight · PDF file2 se es e? | | scienti atchel SEWING TUTORIAL scientist’s satchel DIFFICULTY: BEFORE YOU BEGIN: MAKES: MATERIALS & TOOLS • Matching

Pg. 4/9 Pg. 5/9

Pg. 7/9 Pg. 8/9

B3B4

D3

D4

C1 C2C3 C4

Page 16: scientist's satchel - Choly Knight · PDF file2 se es e? | | scienti atchel SEWING TUTORIAL scientist’s satchel DIFFICULTY: BEFORE YOU BEGIN: MAKES: MATERIALS & TOOLS • Matching

Scie

ntist

’s Sa

tche

lP

AT

TE

RN

www.cho

lykn

ight

.com

BAG F

RO

NT &

BACK

Cut

2 o

f m

ain fab

ricCut

2 o

f lin

ing

fabric

5/8”

sea

m a

llow

ance

Scientist’s SatchelP A T T E R N

www.cholyknight.com

BAG SIDESCut 2 of main fabricCut 2 of lining fabric5/8” seam allowance

Pg. 5/9 Pg. 6/9

Pg. 8/9 Pg. 9/9

B5B6

D5D

6

C3 C4

turn

lock

place

men

t

open

ing

for tu

rnin

g (linin

g on

ly)

Page 17: scientist's satchel - Choly Knight · PDF file2 se es e? | | scienti atchel SEWING TUTORIAL scientist’s satchel DIFFICULTY: BEFORE YOU BEGIN: MAKES: MATERIALS & TOOLS • Matching

Pg. 7/9

D1D

2

E1 E2

Scientist’s SatchelP A T T E R N

www.cholyknight.com

BAG FLAP - LOWER RIGHTCut 2 from main fabric

Cut 2 from lining5/8” seam allowance

turn lock placement

Page 18: scientist's satchel - Choly Knight · PDF file2 se es e? | | scienti atchel SEWING TUTORIAL scientist’s satchel DIFFICULTY: BEFORE YOU BEGIN: MAKES: MATERIALS & TOOLS • Matching

Scientist’s SatchelP A T T E R N

www.cholyknight.com

STRAPCut 1 on fold of main fabric

5/8” seam allowance

Pg. 7/9 Pg. 8/9

D3

D4

E1 E2E3 E4

BAG FLAP - LOWER RIGHTCut 2 from main fabric

Cut 2 from lining5/8” seam allowance

Page 19: scientist's satchel - Choly Knight · PDF file2 se es e? | | scienti atchel SEWING TUTORIAL scientist’s satchel DIFFICULTY: BEFORE YOU BEGIN: MAKES: MATERIALS & TOOLS • Matching

Pg. 8/9 Pg. 9/9

D5D

6

E3 E4Cu

t on f

old