Santiago

Clean yet chaotic, modern yet old-fashioned.Once regarded as little more than a hesitant layover between the Atacama and Patagonia, present day Santiago is buzzing with life.

The city offers thriving culinary and artistic enclaves that are a joy to uncover. Gourmets feast on world-class cuisine in Bellavista and Providencia, bohemians gather in the charming old district of Barrio Brasil, while the city is dotted with fine museums and a flourishing arts scene. With a booming café culture and leafy, exotic suburban parks, Santiago has acquired an infectious energy and growing confidence.

And the mountains don't just sit there as decoration - there's a huge range of activities within easy reach of the urban sprawl. Trekking, climbing, horseback riding, skiing, kayaking and wine tours are just a few of the exhilarating possibilities at Santiago's doorstep. The emergence of strong eco-tourism projects are changing the face of this picture-perfect country, and Santiago holds the added benefit of being only 40 minutes from the highest Andean peaks, ski centers and thermal spas, while only being 2 hours away from the coast.

Getting there

WeatherChile's central valley enjoys a Mediterranean climate, similar to California (in fact, Santiago and LA are roughly in the same latitude on either hemisphere). Golden sunshine bathes the region most days from about mid-September until mid-May. Winters are mild, with temperatures averaging around 10°C to 15°C (50ª-55ªF), while in the summer they can rise to around 30°C (85ºF). Rainfall is highest between June and August, though in general Santiago has a relatively low humidity.

In the coast the weather is not quite as dependable as inland. Morning fogs can mar the ocean view in some of the beach resorts, and the area is prone to more rainfall. The fresh sea breeze spawning from cold Antarctic currents has a cooling effect in the area, though the added humidity and relentless sunshine in the summer makes up for the difference in temperatures.

Smog and the CityOne-third of Chile’s population lives in Santiago. Added to the

relative prosperity of its inhabitants and that the city is trapped in a valley with poor ventilation, air pollution is a

problematic issue, especially in winter. The air clears up a lot in the summer though, when most Santiaguinos leave the city to take their holidays in

January and February.

Chile has direct connections with North America, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand and most international flights arrive in Santiago. Travelers to other destinations within Chile usually board their connecting flights here.

Santiago’s Arturo Merino Benitez international airport is a short 20 minute taxi/shuttle drive from the city center. A taxi ride to the city is about US$35-40 and a shared minivan service around $20. Make sure you get the taxis from the Taxi Oficial or TransVIP counters in the arrivals lounge and never from the individual drivers hawking tourists at the exit. There are also regular buses every 10 minutes that drop you off at main subway stations ($5), but luggage space is scarce. Always keep an eye on your belongings and never leave bags unattended, especially in crowded spaces such as buses and the subway.

SAN CRISTÓBAL HILLFunicular entrance 10 minutes from Baquedano Metro Station, Red Line (L1). Cable cart entrance, 15 minutes from Pedro de Valdivia Metro Station, Red Line (L1). Funicular/cable carts open everyday, 10am to 6:30pm.The world’s largest metropolitan park, this entire hill is devoted to outdoor recreation. There are two public swimming pools, restaurants, BBQ spots, a Zoo and even a Japanese garden. There is really no view of the entire city that compares to the panorama at the top of this hill. Take a ride up in the funicular from Bellavista or a cable cart from Pedro de Valdivia Norte and make sure you visit the statue at the peak. Note: it is not advisable to stay in the park after dark.

PLAZA DE ARMAS (MAIN SQUARE)Plaza de Armas Metro Station, Green Line (L5).The main pedestrian plaza and cardinal center of the city is a must for any visitor. Charming and full of character, this is where Chileans from all walks of life converge. The plaza boasts tons of street entertainment, from local artists and comedians to chess players and ranting evangelists. Check out “little Peru” by the Cathedral, the main hub for Chile’s largest foreign population. Note: we advise against walking around the downtown area after 10pm.

LA MONEDA & PLAZA DE LA CONSTITUCIÓNLa Moneda Metro Station, Red Line (L1).Loved by architects due to its near-perfect symmetry, this building is the seat of political power in Chile and one of its most significant historical symbols. The square boasts statues of several former presidents and is surrounded by government buildings. On the other side of the palace, the modern cultural center built underneath the water fountains features excellent art exhibits.

SANTA LUCIA HILLSanta Lucía Metro Station, Red Line (L1).Originally a Mapuche lookout point, this old Spanish fort located in the center of the city features a castle at the top, lovely gardens and very steep, unstable stone stairwells. The homonymous market across the street holds interesting bargains, but watch out for pickpockets!

LASTARRIA NEIGHBORHOODBellas Artes Metro Station, Green Line (L5).This is where budding artists and the bohemian crowd come to perch. Stop by for designer coffee at one of the many trendy cafés and soak in the cosmopolitan

ambience. There are small theaters, artsy cinemas and even a street fair on weekends where you can find all sorts of interesting trinkets from bygone eras. Across the street you may find the Fine Arts and Modern Art Museums (Tue-Sun, entrance is free on Sunday).

VILLA GRIMALDIJose Arrieta 8401, Peñalolen. Taxi only (no metro).This enclosed plot of land was used as a torture center under Dictator Augusto Pinochet from 1974 – 1978. An excellent place to learn about the history of the 1973 military coup and dictatorship in Chile and its violations of human rights. Tours are generally in Spanish only.

CENTRAL MARKET & VEGA CENTRALSan Pablo 967. Cal y Canto Metro Station, Yellow Line (L2).Open everyday, 9:00am to 6:00pm. Santiago’s fresh fish market is something to be experienced with every sense. Here you will find the most exquisite seafood in the city, including crabs the size of a basketball. Just across the river is the colorful Vega Central, the biggest fruit market in Chile. Cheap and cheerful, people from all social classes come here to delight in the fresh produce that arrives every morning from the lush Chilean countryside.

QUINTA NORMALQuinta Normal Metro Station, Green Line (L5).Museums open Tue-Sun 9am-5pm. Free entry on Sunday.Originally a colonial manor/farm, this huge park on the east end of the downtown area is Santiago’s museum district. The park features the newly-built human rights museum, with fantastic exhibitions about dictatorships in Latin America. Other museums include the Museum of Visual Arts, The Train Museum, and The Artequin, which displays remakes of the world’s masterpieces, such as Van Gogh’s Starry Night.

COUSIÑO PALACE & REPÚBLICA NEIGHBORHOODDieciocho 438. Toesca Metro Station, Yellow Line (L6)This Versailles-style mansion, which is quite elegant and beautiful, and represents the way of life of the Chilean elite at the end of the 19th century. It was built by the aristocrat Mr. Luis Cousino with architect Paul Lathoud. Cousino built the residence to honor his wife, Isidora Goyenechea, and show the extent of his fortune (one of the largest in the country at the time). Check out the Republica student neighborhood across the highway, where many universities have their main buildings.

Top Attractions

PATIO BELLAVISTA Baquedano Metro Station, Red Line (L1). Open until late.Located between Pio Nono and Constitución Street in the Bellavista neighborhood, this recently reconstructed area is a lively outdoor retreat, highly recommended both for local artisan handicrafts and its options of restaurants and pubs.

LOS DOMINICOS ARTISAN MARKETLos Dominicos Metro Station, Red Line (L1). Open Tue-Sun, 11am-7:30pm. Closed on Mondays.For local Chilean handicraft, this outdoor artisan shopping area next to a convent has Santiago’s largest craft selection imported from throughout the country and is a highly recommended option. Albeit a bit pricier than regular markets, the items here are exclusive and the honest patrons do not charge special tourist markups.

PARQUE ARAUCO MALL5225 Kennedy Avenue, Las Condes. 10am – 9pm. Taxi only.This large and very modern mall is where the higher echelons of Chilean society buy their clothes. Popular with tourists, it has bowling, ice-skating, an outdoor courtyard with excellent dining options and a megaplex movie theater.

ALTO LAS CONDES MALL9001 Kennedy Avenue, Las Condes, 10am-9pm. Taxi only.Santiago’s second largest mall with the best brand stores and a megaplex movie theater.

ALONSO DE CÓRDOVA STREETAlonso de Córdova, Vitacura. Taxi only.Chile’s answer to 5th Avenue, this street lines up the most exclusive (and priciest) boutiques this side of the Andes. Recommended for high-end shoppers only.

Shopping

The Santiago Metro

The Metro is the backbone of the public transport system in Santiago and a source of pride for its inhabitants due to its general cleanliness, safety and efficiency. It is the easiest and fastest way to move around the city, used by almost 2 million people everyday.

You may purchase individual tickets or a magnetic pay-as-you-go card, that also lets you board street buses (though this is unadvisable for people who don’t know the city well). Fares change depending on the time of day, and tickets purchased on regular times do not work during rush hour (or vice-versa).

Rush hour goes from 6am to 9am, and then to 6pm to 9pm. It is best to avoid the metro during those times, as the crowded wagons and stations can get a bit suffocating (especially in the summertime). Currently there is no air conditioning in the metro, although there are plans to have AC-ready wagons by 2014.

UPTOWN: LAS CONDES & VITACURA

TiramisuItalian -$$Isidora Goyenechea 3141. Reservation recommended.Hands down the best pizza in Santiago. Reservations are necessary, especially for larger groups.

Café MelbaInternational cuisine - $$Don Carlos 2898A delicious option for international food. Gorge on pancakes with their all-day breakfast!

LiguriaChilean/Italian fusion $$$Luis Thayer Ojeda 019 with Av. ProvidenciaThis bustling Santiago mainstay with an Argentine-Italian touch offers big portions at an affordable price, with an impressive wine list. Highly recommended.

HappeningArgentinean Steakhouse - $$$Av. Apoquindo 3090 with Augusto Leguia. Reservation recommended.Simply the best steak in Santiago. This upscale Argentine parrillada provides any cut of meat cooked on an open grill to your liking.

Borde RioVarious - $$/$$$! This riverside boardwalk has a selection of 9 fine dining restaurants, including Sushi, Peruvian, Italian, and Middle Eastern options. We recommend a sunset cocktail on the terrace at Zanzibar.

Doña Tina Camino Los Refugios del Arrayán 15125, Lo BarnecheaFor the visitor looking to sample the hearty, rustic specialties that are considered true Chilean cooking, this sprawling place on the outskirts of the city is surely the best choice.

MID-TOWN: PROVIDENCIA & BELLAVISTA

Patio BellavistaEntrance on Pio Nono and Constitución streetsThis large plaza contains a variety of excellent dining options including sushi, steak and international food, as well as bars and souvenir shops. Locals and tourists alike flock to this place after work. Highly recommended.

Como Agua Para ChocolateMexican - $$ Constitución 088, BellavistaThis interestingly decorated restaurant is based around the theme of the book of the same title.

Etniko Asian fusion - $$Constitución 172, BellavistaThis hip joint serves sushi and Asian fusion accompanied with music by an in-house DJ.

Galindo Chilean - $$Dardignac 098, BellavistaLocated on the corner of the trendy Constitución street, Galindo offers excellent Chilean cuisine at inexpensive prices.

Ky Asian - $$$Av. Perú 631 - Taxi onlyUnique and stylish restaurant, just a short cab ride away from Bellavista neighborhood. Specializes in Thai and fusion dishes.

El Huerto Vegetarian - $$Orrego Luco 054, ProvidenciaEven non-vegetarians will enjoy this simple Vegetarian restaurant, known internationally for its creative and healthy dishes.

De la Ostia Tapas - $$Orrego luco 065, ProvidenciaThis Barcelona-style restaurant/bar is renowned for its delicious Spanish tapas and cocktails and has a wonderful Mediterranean ambience. It is located in the lively outdoor courtyard of Orrego Luco.

DOWNTOWN: CITY CENTER

Donde Augusto Seafood - $$$Central Market - Lunch onlyDonde Augusto is located inside Santiago’s Central Market and is a popular venue for tourists looking for typical Chilean cuisine. Open everyday except Mondays until 5pm, lunch only.

Boulevard LavaudFrench - $$Compañía de Jesus, 2799This restaurant is also of Chile’s protected historical buildings. The décor inside is a very eclectic mix of antiques and the food is wonderful. Check out the “happy Sour” hour for great, cheap cocktails.

Restaurants & Dining

IRISH PUBS

Flannery’s Irish Geo PubEncomenderos 83, Las CondesFor a pint of Guinness, this Irish pub is the local choice for foreigners.

DublinPatio Bellavista, BellavistaA bit less Irish and a bit more Chilean, this bar is lively and offers a wide selection of beers.

DANCE CLUBS

UPTOWNLas Urracas9229 Vitacura, VitacuraPacked Thursday-Saturday, this popular club is a good dance spot. Taxi only.

Sala Murano Las Condes 14950, Las CondesOne of the most popular dance venues for young people and college students, plays a variety of styles including pop music and reggaetton. Located relatively far away from the hotel, you can only get there on a taxi. Taxi.

BELLAVISTAClub ChocolateE. Pinto Lagarrigue 192, BellavistaA

JAZZ BARS

El Perseguidor126 A. Lopez de Bello, Bellavista neighborhoodJazz pub with live music and informal atmosphere. Several small

bars located across the street, and around the corner on Constitución. Taxi or Metro: Baquedano.

Club de JazzAv. Alessandri 85, ÑuñoaOne of Latin America’s most established jazz venues – Louis Armstrong and Herbie Hancock are just two of the greats to have played here – this large wooden building hosts local and international jazz, blues and big band performers. Taxi only.

BAR-RESTAURANTS

Red2One, W SantiagoW Hotel, Isidora Goyenechea 3000Red2One is Santiago's most exclusive bar. Designed by Chilean Sergio Echeverria and New Yorker Tony Chi, the space puts a modern twist on traditional Chilean décor. Pops of red are juxtaposed against clean white sofas and natural wood floors. The views of the snow-capped Andes are unmatched amongst its Chilean bar bretheren.

Park ClubPlaza el Bosque Park Hotel – 17th floorEbro 2828 with Av. El BosqueFor a quiet sunset happy hour, this top floor bistro at a nearby hotel offers striking views of the Andes Mountain range.

Paseo Orrego Luco Between Av. Providencia 2047 and 2051, ProvidenciaThis outdoor area is always lively from Happy Hour onwards. Metro: Los Leones

EclécticoTobalaba 1199, ProvidenciaThis wonderful little bar gets packed even on weekdays. Great drinks, great food and a great atmosphere at a walking distance from the El Golf neighborhood. Metro: Cristobal Colón (blue line).

DANCE BARS

Etniko Constitución 172, BellavistaEtniko is the in place of the moment. It is pretty funky, with a sleek, low-lit central courtyard, a DJ at the turntables, and the atmosphere abuzz with media gossip and goings-on.

Bar ConstituciónConstitución 6, BellavistaThis bar does not have a sign outside: find a huge gray sliding door with a long queue of trendies and you’re in the right place. Live bands and DJs play nightly – the bar’s eclectic tastes include electroclash, garage, nu-folk, house and more.

Havana SalsaDomínica 142, BellavistaYou can't fail to notice the fake Havana-themed facade to this established Cuba-inspired dance venue/restaurant. It's the place to go if you can't help shaking to the 'uno dos tres' of the salsa beat. Some extravagant live shows are also staged here.

Music, Bars and NightlifeSantiago’s nightlife scene may pale in comparison to larger cities such as Buenos Aires and Sao Paulo, yet venues here are close by, feel cozier and lack the attitude. Plus, they are also much safer. For many people (especially students), the weekend starts on Thursday and finishes late on Sunday morning. From Sunday night through Wednesday, however, most places are dead and many nightclubs are closed. The Bellavista neighborhood is the party district par excellence, and the lively atmosphere found walking around the alleys on a Saturday night is an experience in itself. Further locations such as Plaza Ñuñoa and the uptown venues require a short taxi ride.

Enrique Foster Norte 196, Las Condes, Santiago - Chile. +56 2 7195979, info@theaustralgroup.com

www.theaustralgroup.com

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