roach-higgins, mary ellen; eicher, joanne b.; … · roach-higgins, mary ellen; eicher, joanne b.;...

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Roach-Higgins/Eicher/Johnson (Ed.), Dress and Identity, 1995, 1 (4)

Roach-Higgins/Eicher/Johnson, Dress and Identity, 1995, 1 (4)

www.modetheorie.de

Roach-Higgins, Mary Ellen; Eicher, Joanne B.; Johnson, Kim K. P. (Ed.)

Dress and Identity

New York (Fairchild) 1995, pp. 511, illustrations

Contents

Preface XI

Acknowledgments XII

PART 1 INTRODUCTION 1

Perspectives on Dress and Identity

1. Dress and Identity

Mary Ellen Roach-Higgins and Joanne B. Eicher 7

2. Appearance and the Self

Gregory P. Stone 19

Body, Dress and Identity

3. Remember: One Size Does Not Fit All

Emily Secaur 40

4. Diary of a Breast Reduction 42

5. Body Image and Plastic Surgery

Bernard E. Simon 4

6. The Perfect Body

Martha Barnette 51

7. Beauty Is the Beast, Appearance-Impaired Children in America

Ann Beuf 56

Dress, Environment, and Body Processes

8. Wardrobe for Space: From Shuttles to Stations

NASA 68

9. Toward Cleaner Clean Rooms

Michael Ravnitzky 71

10. Good-bye to an Old Supporter

Edward Dolnick 77

Dress as Means of Communication

11. Layers of Signs

Nathan Joseph 80

12. Decoding the Runner’s Wardrobe

Jeffrey E. Nash 86

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PART 2 DRESS AND INDIVIDUAL DEVELOPMENT OF IDENTITY 99 Dress and Socialization for Social Role 13. Dress, Gender and Age Joanne B. Eicher and Mary Ellen Roach-Higgins 102 14. On the Disappearance of Knickers: Hypothesis for the Functional Analysis of the Psychology of Clothing George Bush and Perry London 107 15. „Passing Women,“ Performing Men Anne Herrmann 113 16. The Mentally Ill and Management of Personal Front Erving Goffman 117 Dress and Role Enactment 17. Identity Kits Erving Goffman 120 18. Adolescent Dress Joanne B. Eicher, Suzanne Baizerman, and John Michelman 122 19. The Role of Clothing in Perpetuating Ageism Jane E. Workman and Kim K. P. Johnson 130 20. Can Professional Women Appear Too Masculine? The Case of the Necktie Kim K. P. Johnson, Christy Crutsinger, and Jane E. Workman 134 21. Role Conflict and Conformity in Dress Cynthia Jasper and Mary Ellen Roach-Higgins 140 22. Geisha and Kimono Liza Dalby 148 PART 3 SOCIAL CONTEXTS THAT INFLUENCE DRESS AND IDENTITY 59 Family 23. The Romance of Resistance: Tracing Transformations of Power through Bedouin Women Lila Abu-Lughod 165 24. Dress and the American Family: The Home as Shopping Mall; The Shopping Mall as Home Mary Ellen Roach-Higgins 175 Economy 25. Clothing of Nigerian Cocoa Farmers’ Families R. Galletti, K. Baldwin and I. O. Dina 179 26. Uniforms Nathan Joseph 185 27. The Image Police Joan Kron 190 28. For Caring Chefs, Headgear is their Crowning Glory Richard Shepard 196 Polity 29. Dressing for Dinner in the Bush Helen Callaway 198 30. Is Clothing Probative of Attitude or Intent? Implications for Rape and Sexual Harassment Cases Theresa Lennon, Sharron Lennon and Kim K. P. Johnson 212

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Religion

31. Dress as a Language of Protest

John A. Hosteller 221

32. The Hasidic Community

Solomon Poll 224

Dress in Special Associations

33. Clothing Symbolism in African American Greek Letter Organizations

S. Lillian Holloman 239

Leisure and Sports Activities

34. Dark Forces

Sarah Boxer 249

35. Baseball Magic

George Gmelch 254

PART 4 CULTURAL CONTEXTS THAT INFLUENCE DRESS AND IDENTITY 265

Technological Resources

36. Traditional Hairdressing in Nigeria

Titus A. Ogunwale 270

37. The Eyed Needle

M. D. C. Crawford 273

38. Stitchless Sewing for the Apparel of the Future

Susan M. Watkins 275

39. Everywoman’s Jewelry: Early Plastics and Equality in Fashion

Eleanor Gordon and Jean Nerenberg 280

Moral Standards

40. Attitudes and Rationalizations Regarding Body Exposure

Erving Goffman 287

41. Symbolizing Roles: Behind the Veil

Elizabeth W. Fernea and Robert A. Fernea 290

Health, Hygiene, and Illness

42. Nineteenth Century Missionary Views of the Hygiene and Dress

of the Eastern Dakota

David J. Trayte 298

43. Feminine Hygiene, Fashion and the Emancipation of

American Women

Fred E. H. Schroeder 304

Aesthetic Expression

44. The Sociology of Odors

Gale Peter Largey and David Rodney Watson 318

45. In the Kitchen

Henry Louis Gates, Jr. 330

46. Drill and Frill: Client Choice, Client Typologies, Interactional

Control in Commercial Tattooing Settings

Clinton R. Sanders 336

47. Male and Female Artistry in Kalabari Dress

M. Catherine Daly, Joanne B.Eicher, and Tonye V. Erekosima 343

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Rituals

48. Rituals and Power: The Anthropology of Homecoming at Queen’s

Lucia Nixon 349

49. Presentation at Court in Sweden 1850-1962

Angela Rundquist 365

PART 5 TIME AND PLACE AS CONTEXT FOR DRESS AND IDENTITY 375

Views on Time and Place

50. Dress: Views on Time and Place

Cynthia Jasper and Mary Ellen Roach-Higgins 380

Fashion

51. Fashion: From Class Differentiation to Collective Selection

Herbert Blumer 384

52. Awareness: Requisite to Fashion

Mary Ellen Roach-Higgins 399

53. A Case Study: The Bloomer Costume

Robert H. Lauer and Jeannette C. Lauer 404

54. Communicative Devices

Gerald Suttles 421

55. Style as Homology

Dick Hebdige 429

56. Senseless

Rick Telander 433

Ethnic Groups

57. Pollution, Boundaries, and Beliefs

Anne Sutherland 442

58. The African American Woman’s Headwrap:

Unwinding the Symbols

Helen Bradley Griebel 451

Cosmopolitanism

59. Cosmopolitan and International Dress

Joanne B. Eicher 467

60. How Fashion Spreads Around the World at the Speed of Light

Woody Hochswender 469

61. The Case of the Dying Kimono

Keiichiro Nakagawa and Henry Rosovsky 471

62. The Aesthetics and Politics of Japanese Identity

in the Fashion Industry

Dorinne Kondo 481

List of Readings 481

Annotated Bibliography 486

Author Index 504

Subject Index 507

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