research & development in textile
TRANSCRIPT
Research Research & &
DevelopmentDevelopment( R & D Fabrication )( R & D Fabrication )
R & D Fabrication
Sampling Order Receiving from Merchandiser.
Selection of Yarn.
Knitting parameters setting.
Finishing Parameters (Samples + Production).
Samples inspection according to four point system.
Testing of samples
Checking parameters at every stage (Knitting, dyeing &
finishing)
Process Flow of R & D
Sample Order Decision of ParameterYarn demandGeneration
Yarn ProcurementKnittingDyeing
Finishing Quality & Testing Dispatching
Sample Order (SO)
Sample order consist of following
GSM of fabric.
Fabric Quality.
Fabric Composition.
Fabric Testing Standard.
Customer Remarks related to finishing.
Selection of Yarn
Type of yarn
Normal Yarn, Fancy yarn.
Normal Yarn
cotton, polyester, acrylic and nylon are normal yarn.
Fancy yarn Slub yarn, Heather yarn, Mélange yarn and lycra yarn.
Count
Number of hanks per pound is called Count. (1 hank is
equal to 840 yards)
We say that if 1 pound cotton makes 1 hank, count will be 1.
Or 1 pound cotton makes 2 hank, count will be 2.
For Cotton: 1 Hank = 840 yards For Wool : 1 Hank =256 yards
Yarn Count Definitions
Denier ( Den) = Gram / 9000 m. Grex = Gram / 10,000 m. Tex = Gram / 1000 m.
English cotton count (Ne) = 840 yd / 1 lb or Ne = 768.1m / 453.59g
Metric Count (Nm) = Meter / 1g
Count Conversion Formulae
From metric count (Nm) to others:
Tex = 1000 / Nm NeB = 0.59 x Nm Den = 9000 / Nm
From denier (den) to others:
Nm = 9000 / den NeB = 5315 / den Tex = 0.111 x den
Knitting Parameters
CountStitch length
DiaGuage
Gsm
Width
Input output
Relation Between Count, GSM & SL
Count GSM,
Count GSM 20/1 200 22/1 181
It shows as “count increases, Gsm decreases”
Stitch length GSM
St.Length Gsm 0.32 200 0.34 188
Relation B/W Dia,Guage & Width
Dia & Gauge œ Width:
Dia Gauge # of Needles Width
30 20 1872 58“
30 24 2268 70”
34 20 2136 66”
Tightness Factor
Tightness factor is a ratio between yarn diameter and its loop length in the structure. It indicates tightness or looseness of a fabric. Tightness factor does not have any units and for practical purpose its value ranges between 1.29 and 1.8. Higher value indicates a tighter fabric & lower value indicate looser fabric. Mathematically tightness factor can be expressed as under,
Tightness Factor = √Tex / Stitch length in mm
Where Tex = √ 590.5 / Count / S.L in mm (3.3) = √ 29.52 /S.L = 5.43 /S.L T.F will be = 1.64
Different methods to check GSM
By GSM cutter: GSM = gram per square meter (wt / area).
GSM = Wt of cut fabric * 100
Area of cutter: Л(r²)
Dia of cutter: 113mm or 11.3cm
Area = 3.14 * ( 11.3 / 2 )² =100
In case of Non-availability of GSM Cutter
GSM = Wt / Area
Suppose a fabric has length 10cm and width 8cm, then Area will be:
Area of fabric = 10 x 8 = 80 cm² or 0.008 m²
Suppose wt of fabric is 2g Then
GSM = 2 / 0.008 = 250
GSM = Wt / Area
Area = 1/2(base × height)
Area = 1/2(10*8) = 40cm2 or 0.004m2
Suppose Wt of fabric is = 2g Then GSM will be: GSM = 2/.004 = 500
Consumption of yarn in a Knitted fabricCalculation of yarn in 3-End-Fleece with yarn composition
Yarn Count Stitch Length %age
30/1 0.38 0.38/30 = 0.0127 0.0127/0.0367*100=34.60%
20/1 0.28 0.28/20 = 0.014 0.014/0.0367*100=38.147%
16/1 0.16 0.16/16 = 0.01 0.01/0.0367*100=27.2479%
Total yarn three loop(30/1,20/1,16/1) = 0.0367
KNITTING
“ Knitting is a process in which yarn is converted
into loops with the help of needles ”
Types of Knitted Fabric
Single Knit Fabric
Double Knit Fabric
Types of Single Knit Fabric
Single Jersey
Single PQ Loqast
Double PQ
2.Thread Fleece
3.Thread Fleece
Types of Double Knit Fabric
Thermal
Waffle
Rib
Interlock
Mesh
Box baby terry
Vertical feed stripe jersey
Single Jersey
Tilla Fleece
Single Jersey (Embroided)
Finishing
Definition:
“It is a process, To enhance the aesthetic properties of a fabric by treating with chemical and mechanical devices is called finishing”.
Types of Finishing
Chemical Finishing:
In chemical finishing, different finishes are applied on a fabric with the help of chemicals such as, Silicon finish, Stain Release, Anti-microbial finish, Resin finish etc.
Mechanical Finishing
In mechanical finishing, fabric is treated with mechanical
devices to impart aesthetic look/properties to the fabric
such as, Peaching, Raising, Heat setting and Compacting.
Finishing Route’s
To apply different finishes on a fabric, different route’s are followed in finishing .Some of them are as follow:
Stretch Dry, Compact.
Slit,Heat set,Dye/white/wash,Slit,stretch dry, Compact.
Slit,Stretch Dry,Peach,Re-stretch,Semi Dry, Tumble.
Slit,Stretch dry, compact.
Quality Control
Quality:
“Quality is a standard achieved by process to render a defect free product to the customer”
To control the quality of a fabric, fabric is inspected according to Four point system.
Four point system introduced by JC-penny for fabric inspection.
Faults Grading
Faults in CmFaults in Cm Faults in InchesFaults in Inches PointsPoints
0cm to 7.5cm0cm to 7.5cm 1 inch to 3 inch1 inch to 3 inch 11
7.5cm to 15cm7.5cm to 15cm 3 inches to 6 inches3 inches to 6 inches 22
15cm to 22.5cm15cm to 22.5cm 6 inches to 9 inches6 inches to 9 inches 33
Over 22.5cmOver 22.5cm More than “9”inches inMore than “9”inches in
Any direction.Any direction.44
Points Allowed
Knitting Quality=Maximum 20 points allowed/100 linear yards
Finish Fabric: Maximum 40 points allowed/100 linear yard.
3 minor faults in one linear yard=1 major (Four points will be given)
How to change Kgs into Yards
For Tubular:
Yards = Weight (Kgs)*43055.20 Gsm*Width*2
For Open Width: Yards= Weight(Kgs)*43055.20 Gsm*Width
Points Allowed for Tubular=Total yards*0.2 or Total yards/5
Points Allowed for Open Width: =Total yards*0.4 or Total yards/2.5
Testing After finishing, fabric is tested to ensure the quality of a
fabric. Following tests are performed on a fabric according to the requirement of customer.
Shrinkage test
Torquing
Colour Fastness to Light, Water, Washing & Perspiration.
Bursting Strength
Pilling Test
Flammability
Dispatching
After ensure the quality & testing of a fabric, fabric is
dispatched to Apparel Division.
Presented by:
Abdul Rouf Deputy Manager Research & Development