red bug complete plans set

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Building The 1920 Briggs & Stratton Cycle Car Copyright 2004, 2005 Everett Moore Everett Moore P.O. Box 1705 Cottonwood, AZ 86326 1

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Do-it-yourself and enjoy a wonderfull ride with this car. Full detailed plans for construction supplied.

TRANSCRIPT

Building The1920 Briggs & Stratton

Cycle Car

Copyright 2004, 2005Everett Moore

Everett MooreP.O. Box 1705

Cottonwood, AZ 86326

1

The original Cycle Car that inspired thisreproduction had the famous “Motor Wheel”as its power source. This simple unit had onlythree controls. The throttle was controlledfrom a small quadrant placed on the steeringwheel, and the entire wheel assembly wasraised off the ground by means of a lever tothe right of the driver.

The brake was foot-operated and, merely,consisted of a board rubbing on both rearwheels. Crude to say the least! It probablyserved the purpose, however, I decided to be alittle bit more professional with the brakingarrangement on this replica.

Designing and building a “Motor Wheel,” Ifelt, would be beyond the intent of a simplecar to be built without welding or lathe work.The engine is mounted on the chassis, whichextends to the rear about 10” more than theoriginal. Through a Comet torque converter,it drives a jack shaft that, in turn, drives theright rear wheel.

I was tempted to use a differential inplace of the jack shaft, but made myself keepto the simplest approach. Besides, I had noexperience with driving a small car with onlyone rear wheel. It had been done many timesby “sidewalk” car builders and was even usedin a little, production car — the King Midget.

I still wanted to have brakes on both rearwheels and worked out, with the use of air-craft pulleys and control cable, an equalizingsystem, whereby the same braking force wasapplied to both rear wheels.

I used 4” drums with an external band.One thing I learned was, while sufficient forparade driving, I got minimal braking. The 4”drums on a 26” wheel was at a disadvantage.At the speeds traveled, there’s sufficient stop-ping power, but, don’t worry about dragging aflat spot on your tires!

My final design used a foot throttle andhand brake, both being the simplestapproach to the task at hand. I had to con-stantly remind myself of the criteria I was

designing to meet. I wanted a simple car withwhich an entry level builder would have noproblem.

The original Cycle Car was built on six 31/2” slats apparently of 1” thick oak or hicko-ry. To keep construction in the affordableclass, I chose to build the chassis from a pieceof 2 x 8 foot 3/4” plywood. Dummy slats werecreated by gluing six 3-1/2” strips of 1/4” ply-wood to the top with equal distant spacing ofapproximately 5/8”. This added a bit ofstrength and created the slat look on the topsurface.

There’s no reason why, if you have accessto 1” thick oak or hickory, you couldn’t usereal slats like the original. Most of the con-trols exit from top to bottom through areas inthe “spaces.” The only exception is the brakeequalizing assembly, which attaches in a slotarea. You would have to redesign a bit here.

To achieve the necessary “stiffness” in thechassis, I had to add a 2x4 support to the bot-tom side, left and right.

For those of you who would like to have areal “motor wheel” power source, this run-ning gear, with the chassis shortened a bit inthe rear, would still make a good platform toattach your “wheel.”

I held off completing this set of plans untilthe car had been driven in its intended pur-pose, a parade. This was accomplished on the4th of December ‘04.

Here’s the results: The steering is “go-kart” quick with the 12” dia. steering wheel.Once the driver is accustomed to it, no prob-lem. All in all, the only thing I discoveredthat I felt needed a revision was the flexibili-ty of the wooden chassis, coupled with thetremendous torque of the power train,allowed the chain to jump a tooth or twounder extreme acceleration. The required re-educating the throttle foot. Once the driverwas use to this, no problem. However, I haveadded, in the drawings, addition supports tostiffen up the area of the engine/power train.

2

Foreword

"Tattoo the above quotes on your brain" asErnest used to say. Better yet, paint them assigns to hang in your shop where you can lookat them every time the going gets rough.

It was with this incentive that the manu-al you're holding was done. With its nearly200 different parts not even a simple cyclecar is necessarily easy. However, ifapproached one part at a time, the jobbecomes much easier.

Sometimes when you buy a set of plans fora project such as this, all you get is a copy ofa magazine article or everything crowdedonto a few sheets of paper.

In this manual you will find a completedrawing of each part — nothing is left for you— no guess work! A lot of parts are simply apiece of bar stock, angle or tubing cut tolength with one or more holes drilled in it.

This is not to imply that you can't go offthe beaten trail and modify or redesign toyour own desires. To do so is encouraged.

The idea that this horseless carriage couldbe approached as a class project crossed ourmind. Since it utilizes several machine shopoperations, each student could be assigned afew parts to do according to their ability andskills. When completed, let the auto body

shop do the painting. Then drive in the home-coming parade! The Industrial Arts Deptwins, hands down!

The same could apply to friends or neigh-bors who join together to build each a carwith different ones making all of certainparts.

A few tools I consider a necessity (eitherowning or having access to) and they are: acut-off saw, a drill press, a hand grinder, anaccurate square (combination & large carpen-ter's square), a bottle of layout blue and themeans of accurately-scribing layout lines onthe stock. Always center punch all holesbefore drilling.

When I began designing for this set ofplans, I followed the criteria of not using alathe or welder. I wanted to produce a simplecar that even a person with minimum work-shop skills and equipment could build one.

Before you start making scrap iron, studythis manual and drawings. Obtain catalogsfrom suppliers and if you have access to theinternet, look at and bookmark the supplierswe have referenced.

Plan where you are going to work on yourcar. Although desirable, a large shop isn'tnecessary. Henry Ford utilized a coal shed for

3

Introduction

“Nothing is particularly hardif you divide it into small jobs.”

— Henry Ford

“Before everything else,getting ready is the secret of success.”

— Henry Ford

his first horseless carriage, the Quadricycle.And, while Henry said “plan ahead,” he evenhad to knock out the existing door and add alarger one just to get his car outside!

Visit your local steel supplier. Dependingon your location, you may have access to awell-stocked supplier. If you live in a ruralarea, look for a welding shop that might havesome scrap or be willing to order for you.

— What Tools Will You Need? —

Tools, while making any job easier, cannotreplace skill in the hands using them. Thelist of tools that follows are what I considersufficient to build the “Red Bug.”

1. A good floor-standing drill press. Includes a drill press vice and drill bitset.

2. A quality table saw.3. A good metal chop saw.4. An electric hand drill (3/8)5. A bellhangers drill bit (1/4)6. A set of Forstner drills.7. A hand jig saw.8. A drum sander (either individual or

attachment for drill press.9. A hand, belt sander is very useful.

10. A bench grinder or hand grinder for smoothing metal parts.

11. A good tap and die set (both NC & NF)12. A box of Band Aids!

— Start with the wooden parts —

It is only a suggestion that you start withthe wooden parts. The chassis is not unlikethe foundation when building a house. Sincemost other components rely on it for align-ment, care must be exercised when laying outthe various locations on the chassis.

Set the frame on a couple of saw horses.Every time you enter your shop you will seeit and it will trigger your mind to the ideathat, "By golly I'm really building a car - fromscratch - by myself". "I wonder when the nextparade in town is." Also, since the chassis isbasically a 2 x 8 ft piece of 3/4 plywood, itmakes an excellent place to sit down andmake other small parts. Seeing you car takeshape is a thrill you'll never forget.

On the original Briggs & Stratton CycleCar, the chassis was constructed from six 31/2” wide boards of (I would guess) 1” thickoak or hickory. If you have such available, goahead and substitute for the plywood I used.

I used a 2 x 8 sheet of 3/4 plywood andadded “phony” slats by gluing 3 1/2 widestrips of 1/4 plywood to the top surface. Ifound this arrangement to be a bit “flexible”with a payload of 450 lbs. Therefore, a sup-port, made from a 2x4, was added to each onthe underside.

_______________

4

The Original 1920 Briggs and Stratton Cycle Car

5

The Finished Cycle Car — “The Red Bug”

Let’s Make Sawdust First

I would recommend that all the woodenparts be sawed out at the same time. Thiswill reduce the large sheets of plywood into,smaller, more manageable pieces. In some ofthe next pages you will find rough, cutoutdimensions.

Rip all similar width pieces at the samesaw setting. Start with the widest and pro-ceed to the smaller ones.

You might consider finishing the seat,cushion bases and seat support first and setthem aside for final painting.

You will note how the axles are made bygluing pieces of 3/4 inch plywood together toget the desired thickness. The front axle isstraight forward gluing together of 3 identi-cal pieces. Whether you cut the profile of thefront axle in the individual pieces or aftergluing, is up to you.

Note how the rear axle has a dado (1 x 1)to hold the 1” square axle tube at assembly.You can come close to this dado by sawing thefiller pieces as shown. However, because ofthe varying thickness of purchased plywood,you will most likely have to “fine tune” thedado for a good fit to the steel tube. This fitshould be close enough to allow epoxying thetube at final assembly. The tube must beflush to top surface of axle after assembly.

The bearing support blocks are, also,made by gluing three pieces of 3/4 inch ply-wood together. It might be wise to glue theblocks as one unit, slightly oversize and thensawing them individually after gluing.

The foot rest is, likewise, made by gluingtogether two pieces of 3/4 inch plywood.

The fun piece is the steering shaft supportwhich, because of its shape, I call the “dogbone.” Like the front axle, you might want tosaw the 2 individual pieces before gluingtogether. A good drum sander is very usefulin the finishing of this part. Save the drillinguntil after the gluing is done.

While I didn’t specify any corner round-ing, I personally used a hand router and a1/4” round over bit to make a lot of edges“look pretty.”

I, also, spared a lot of little detail on thewood parts because I find most people withany degree of a home workshop will usuallyhave sufficient woodworking skills to suffice.

I recommend that any finished wood partbe left without paint at this time. You shouldcompletely finish, assemble and test driveyour car and only then disassemble andpaint.

_______________

6

The Making and Assembly Processes

A city version of the Cycle Car was madelater, using electric power for use in large

estates as personal transportation.It was call the “Red Bug.” We named ours

Red Bug, likewise.

PART DESCRIPTION

SHEET - 1PLYWOOD CUTTING

PART NUMBER

007SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

7

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 12. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.3. Material: 3/4 Plywood - full 4 x 8 sheet.4. Saw cut has been allowed for.

40 14

1534

front axle front axle front axle

rear axle rear axle

CHASSIS

seat support front

foot rest

foot rest

rear axle

seat support front

seat supportside

seat supportside

24

3

5 14

24 22 12 15 34 15 34

22 12

31 3/4 31 3/4 31 3/4 4 14

3 12

38 3

2 12

3 34

96

48

seat support botton

PART DESCRIPTION

SHEET - 2PLYWOOD CUTTING

PART NUMBER

008SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

8

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 12. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.3. Material: 1/4 Plywood - full sheet

3 12 ( X6 )

2 12

floor slat x 6

floor slat x 6

floor slat x 6

floor slat x 6

floor slat x 6

floor slat x 6

PART DESCRIPTION

SHEET - 3, SEATPLYWOOD CUTTING

PART NUMBER

009SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

9

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 12. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.3. Material: 3/4 Plywood

17.00

16.00

8.00

1.75

44.00

17.00 17.00

40.00

Back

Side Side

Bottom

Seat Back Strip

48.00

48.00

PART DESCRIPTION

TOP VIEWCHASSIS —

PART NUMBER

010SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

010

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 12. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.3. Material: 3/4” Plywood — Imitation Slats = 1/4” Plywood.4. All hole dia’s to be 3/8” except those marked “x” which are 1/4”.5. Some hole dia’s are called out on hole patterns.6. See text for more drilling instructions.7. Break all corners and sharp edges.8. Finish: Choice of builder.

1 12 R

8

15 12

20 27

31 12

48 12

72

4 14 7 78

10 12 2 6 38

2 116

2 116

18 R

10 516

10 516

3 58

3 316

2 14

6 58

1 14

14

Center Line Rear Axle

Center Line Front Axle

96

10 (ref) 1

1Hole Pattern "A"

4 R

Hole Pattern "B"

Hole Pattern "D" Hole Pattern "C"

Hole Pattern "E"

xx

x xx

xxx

xx

4 Center Line of Chassis

2

20 3 Center on groove

*

*

*

*

Dims marked with ( * ) apply to both front and rear axle mounting holes.

PART DESCRIPTION

SHEET 2CHASSIS - TOP VIEW

PART NUMBER

011SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004 - Everett Moore

011

HOLE PATTERN LAYOUTSUse dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.

38 DIA - 2 Holes

3

1 12

38 R

3 12

38 DIA - 2 Holes

38 R

1 38

3 12

1 12

3

6

38 R

1 38

1 38

38 DIA - 4 Holes

1 (ref) 2 places

1 12

14 DIA - 2 Holes

1 12

Cut relief to clear 1/4" flat washer Cut thru 1/4" imitation slat - 2 places 2 (ref)

7

38 R

38 DIA (ref) 3 places

1 34

A

B

C

D

E

PART DESCRIPTION

BLOCKBEARING MOUNTING

PART NUMBER

012SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

012

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 22. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.3. Material: 3/4 Plywood.4. Break all corners and sharp edges.5. Finish: Choice of builder.

78 4 14

6

1

338 DIA

2 HOLES3 PIECES OF 3/4 PLYWOODGLUED TOGETHER

APPROX. 2 1/4 INCHES

PART DESCRIPTION

FOOT REST

PART NUMBER

013SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

013

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 12. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.3. Material: 3/4 Plywood. Glue 2 pieces together.4. Break all corners and sharp edges.5. Finish: Choice of builder.

6

38 DIA - 2 Holes

36

1 12

1 R

3 R1 12

6

1

1 12

7 34

3

20 12

3 R

PART DESCRIPTION

SUB - ASSEMBLYFRONT AXLE

PART NUMBER

014SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

014

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 12. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.3. Material: 3/4 Plywood (3 pieces glued together)4. Break all corners and sharp edges.5. Finish: Choice of builder.

2 12

4 14

2 1478

1 18

Center Line of Chassis

10 516

2 116 2 1

16

10 516

2 14 78

38 DIA - 8 holes 2 14 (ref)

3 1316 both ends

13 1316 both ends

31 342 34 - 4 plcs

1" Dia. C'bore to depth shown - Typical 4 Places

PART DESCRIPTION

ASSEMBLYREAR AXLE

PART NUMBER

015SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

015

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 12. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.3. Material: 3/4 plywood (3 pieces), 1/4” plywood (1 piece) Cut to dims shown.

1” square x .120 wall steel tubing - 34.750 long4. Glue plywood pieces together as shown. When dry, epoxy steel tube in

to dimensions shown. Tube and plywood to be flush at top.5. Plywood thickness can vary. Therefore it may be necessary to touch up the

1” dado on the table saw to make a snug but loose fit between steel and wooden axle.

6. Break all corners and sharp edges.7. Finish: Choice of builder.

1 14 1 14 Center line

10 516

2 116 2 1

16

10 516

34 34

1 12

1 12 38 DIA - 4 holes

14 DIA - 12 holes

2 122 12

3 12

1 916 (ref - both ends)31 34

1 14 - Typical 6 places

Sq tube & plywood surfaces to be flush this entire surface34 78

PART DESCRIPTION

SUPPORTSTEERING SHAFT

PART NUMBER

016SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

16

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 12. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.3. Material: 2 pieces of 3/4 plywood glued together.4. Round over corners as shown.5. Finish: Choice of builder.

1 14

2

11 12

58 DIA

3

4 Places

34

Typical both ends

4 Holes

1 R12 R

1 12

2

5

14

1 14

38 DIA

PART DESCRIPTION

ASSEMBLYSEAT SUPPORT

PART NUMBER

017SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

17

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 12. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.3. Material: 3/4” Plywood.4. Glue & screw together.5. Finish: Choice of builder.

15 34

22 12

24

7 78

20

2 2 (REF)

38 DIA - 2 Holes

3 34

6

5 14

4 12

PART DESCRIPTION

SEAT ASSEMBLY

PART NUMBER

018SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

18

NOTES:

1. Use dimensions shown. Do not scale drawing.2. Material: 3/4 in. plywood.3. Referring to this drawing and drawing XXX, cut two slots to accept corner brackets.4. Fit parts - glue - reinforce with screws and corner brackets.

15 34

40

4 R

4 R

80°

44

15

16

1 14

2

17

15

16 516

Front corner top viewTypical two places

3 12

o

1 R

8

PART DESCRIPTION

SEAT - REAR DETAIL

PART NUMBER

019SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

19

NOTES:

1. Cut two slots as shown. Use router preferably. However, multiple holes can bedrilled and connected with jig saw. Slot should only be wide enough to acceptthe bracket. Prototype used 1/4 in.

2. Drill 1/4 dia holes thru seat back & arm rests and secure brackets with 1/4 - 20bolts, fender washers and nuts. Place nuts on outside.

Cut slot thru seat back to accept corner bracketboth sides

4 in corner reinforcing bracketfasten to rear of seat, extend thru slotfasten to outside of arm rest. ( 2 places )

Rear view of seat

Detail of seat back reinforcement

PART DESCRIPTION

SUPPORT - LHUNDER CHASSIS

PART NUMBER

020SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

20

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 12. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.3. Material: Make from 2 x 4 (1 1/2 x 3 1/2)4. With 1/4” Dia router bit, cut key way as shown.5. Mounting holes to be drilled at assembly.6. Finish: Choice of builder.

10 1811

12 38

3 12

1 14

1 DIA - C'Bore - 5/16 Deep

69 58

1

18 R

316

PART DESCRIPTION

SUPPORT - RHUNDER CHASSIS

PART NUMBER

021SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

21

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 12. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.3. Material: Make from 2 x 4 (1 1/2 x 3 1/2)4. With 1/4” Dia router bit, cut key way as shown.5. Mounting holes to be drilled at assembly.6. Finish: Choice of builder.

1

10 1811

12 38

69 58

1 DIA - C'Bore - 5/16 Deep1

18 R

316

— Now Let’s Make Some Iron Filings —

If you haven’t already, you might want tocut the 1” square tube to required length andfinish the rear axle per drawing No. 015.

Be sure to align your chop saw so as to cutas near to 90 degrees as possible. I nevertrust the marks provided and prefer to use asquare to do this.

I recommend cutting all bar stock andangle parts to the required length at onetime. Next, remove any burrs and sharpedges with a hand file.

To layout the hole locations, you shouldhave a small bottle of layout blue. You needonly apply it to the approximate area wherethe holes will be. Accurately locate the holeswith a good square and scale. Scribe lineswith a scriber and center punch beforedrilling holes.

When all holes are drilled, using either abench grinder or hand grinder, form theradius’ called out on the drawings. These arenot critical and in some cases are more forappearance than anything else.

One of the more difficult parts will be thetwo hub mounting flanges, Drawing No. 034.Layout and scribe the hole locations withyour square and compass or use the card-board tool described in Drawing No. 035.

Using the appropriate tap drill, drill andthen tap holes per drawing. If you have neverused a tap before, do two things — 1) Use acutting fluid to lubricate the tap while cut -ting (I use WD-40) 2) Every couple or threeturns of the tap, stop and backup a turn tobreak the chip and free the tap again.

Don’t force the tap, back up, and go again.Nothing will make a grown man cry quickerthan breaking a tap flush with the work, usu-ally on the last hole of a nearly completedpart! Make an effort to start the tap perpen-dicular to the the part.

After completing drilling and tapping, allthat’s left to do is cutting the center hole. In

sticking with my criteria established at thebeginning, I did this without using a lathe. Ofcourse, if you have a lathe, by all means useit!

I used a 1-5/8” dia. metal cutting hole saw,cutting half way on one side and turning thepart over and finishing from the other side.

Since the hole could be a bit smaller, if youhave a 1-9/16” dia saw or want to use a flycutter, use it.

The only tapped holes remaining are onthe chain tightener anchor blocks and thetubular nuts (use in the steering shaft sup-port AKA “Dog Bone.”)

All the techniques of tapping used on theprevious parts, apply here, also.

While into tread cutting, you might aswell cut the threads on three parts madefrom round CRS. From your tap and die setchose the appropriate die and die stock (thehandle that holds the die) and, after cuttingthe rods to length, cut the threads per draw-ings No. 038 and 039.

The remaining metal work entails modify-ing a purchased part, such as cross drillingand pressing in a roll-pin, drill and tappingor, in one case, cutting threads with a die.

One part, the brake activator guide, PartNo. 041 requires drilling and tapping pluspressing in two bearings.

Other modifications are self-explanatoryas per the drawing.

Now is a good time to examine all yourparts by comparing them to the drawing.Remove any burrs found, de-grease and setaside for the initial assembly process.

Only after making sure that parts fit andfunction as intended, should they be de-greased, primed and painted with the finishof your choice.

_______________

22

The Making of Metal Parts

PART DESCRIPTION

MOUNTING BRACKETFRONT SPINDLE

PART NUMBER

023SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

23

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 42. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.3. Material: 1/4 X 1-1/2 Steel Bar Stock.4. Break all corners and sharp edges.5. Finish: Choice of builder.

.750

2.250

4.125

1 12 R

1 12

1116

5 58

.375 DIA (2)

.625 DIA

PART DESCRIPTION

SUPPORTDRIVE TRAIN

PART NUMBER

024SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

24

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 22. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.3. Material: 1” x 1” x .120 wall Square tube.4. Break all corners and sharp edges.5. Finish: Choice of builder.

25

1

932 DIA

12

Note: Used only if excessive flexing of the plywood chassis in the area of engine mount and jack shaftis experienced. Install by raising engine (PP 215) and engine mounting plate (PP 250) and slidingthe two supports between wood chassis and mounting plate. Place as far apart as possible while in contact with engine mounting bolts. Secure supports at front with 1/4” hardware. This may in-crease the length of #35 roller chain required between torque converter and jack-shaft.

PART DESCRIPTION

BASE PLATECHAIN TIGHTENER

PART NUMBER

025SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

25

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 22. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.3. Material: 3/16 X 2” Bar Stock.4. Break all corners and sharp edges.5. Finish: Choice of builder.

1.375

516

5161 784.250

7

.375 DIA - 2 Holes

.250 DIA - 2 Holes

1

2 (ref)

PART DESCRIPTION

A & BWASHER PLATES

PART NUMBER

026SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

26

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: See notation on drawing.2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.3. Material: 1/8 x 1 Bar stock.4. Break all corners and sharp edges.5. Finish: Choice of builder.

38 1 14

2

932 DIA

5

12

1

1

Plate A - Qty = 4

Plate B - Qty = 2

12

1516 3 18

38 DIA

PART DESCRIPTION

BRAKE LEVER

PART NUMBER

027SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

27

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 12. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.3. Material: 1/4 X 1 Bar Stock.4. Drill & bend as indicated.5. Break all corners and sharp edges.6. Finish: Choice of builder.

16(ref)

.250 DIA

3

12 R

19 12.312 DIA

Both ends

10°

5

PART DESCRIPTION

PULLEY MTG. BKT.CENTER BRAKE

PART NUMBER

028SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

28

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 12. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.3. Material: 1/8 X 1- 1/2 steel bar stock.4. Break all corners and sharp edges.5. Finish: Choice of builder.

7

4.001 12

.250 DIA2 Holes

34

1 12

PART DESCRIPTION

PULLEY MTG. BKT.OUTBOARD BRAKE

PART NUMBER

029SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

29

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 1 Left Hand & 1 Right Hand.2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.3. Material: 1/8 X 1- 1/2 Steel Bar Stock4. Twist bend as shown to allow brake cable to go under chassis board.4. Break all corners and sharp edges.5. Finish: Choice of builder.

1 12 4.50 6.00

13

11 12

12°

34

1 12

.250 DIA

.375 DIA2 Holes

Twisting bend to be within this area

LH as shown (Qty 1)

18 R

RH to be mirrow image (Qty 1)

A =

B =

PART DESCRIPTION

MOUNTING BRACKETBRAKE LEVER

PART NUMBER

030SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

30

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 22. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.3. Material: 3/16 X 2 X 2 Angle.4. Break all corners and sharp edges.5. Finish: Choice of builder.

34 2 12

2

12 3

4

2

21

1 12

1

316 (ref)

.250 DIA

.312 DIA

.375 DIA - 2 Holes

18 R

2 HOLES

12 R

PART DESCRIPTION

MOUNTING BKT - LHBRAKE ANCHOR

PART NUMBER

031SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2005Everett Moore

31

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 12. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.3. Material: 3/16 X 2 X 2 Angle.4. Break all corners and sharp edges.5. Finish: Choice of builder.

.375 DIA

1 12

1

22

3 HOLES 5

5 34

78

12

14 R

12 R

PART DESCRIPTION

MOUNTING BKT - RHBRAKE ANCHOR

PART NUMBER

032SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2005Everett Moore

32

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 12. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.3. Material: 3/16 X 2 X 2 angle4. Break all corners and sharp edges.5. Finish: Choice of builder.

.375 DIA

3 HOLES

1 12

121

2

2

78

5

5 34

14 R 1

2 R

PART DESCRIPTION

BRACKETTHROTTLE MOUNTING

PART NUMBER

033SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

33

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 12. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.3. Material: 3/16 - 2 x 3 Angle or make from larger angle.4. Break all corners and sharp edges.5. Finish: Choice of builder.

1

2

2

4

2

3

12

3

.375 DIA.312 DIA

12 R

14 R

2 Holes

PART DESCRIPTION

FLANGE - ALTERNATIVEHUB MOUNTING

PART NUMBER

034SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

34

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 22. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.3. Material: See drawing callout.4. Break all corners and sharp edges.5. Finish: Choice of builder.

Make from 3 1/2" Dia. Aluminum discMcMaster-Carr No. 9035K17 - PP 248

5/16 x 24 UNF4 holes

2.812 DIA

2.000 DIA

1/4 x 28 UNF4 holes

1-5/8 DIA

3-1/2 DIA (ref)

.50 (REF)

PART DESCRIPTION

WHEEL/FLANGE DRILLCARDBOARD TOOL

PART NUMBER

035SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

35

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 12. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.3. Material: Cardboard such as on back of writing tablets, poster board, etc.4. Cut stack of small disks to be snug fit in wheel bearing hole. (approx 1.375).5. Glue stack of small disks concentrically on large disk. This stack must be

sufficient to firmly locate tool in wheel hub.6. Make small pin hole at intersection of all 8 hole locations.

3 12 DIA

2 1316 DIA

1 1332 R

2 DIA

1 R

1 1132 DIA

*

Location of pin holesTypical 8 places

PART DESCRIPTION

ANCHOR BLOCKCHAIN TIGHTENER

PART NUMBER

036SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

36

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 22. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.3. Material: 5/8” Sq. Bar Stock or Key Stock.4. Break all corners and sharp edges.5. Finish: Choice of builder.

1/4 - 28 UNF - 3 Holes

1.375

516

58

58

516

2

1

PART DESCRIPTION

TUBULAR NUT

PART NUMBER

037SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

37

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 42. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.3. Material: 5/8 Dia CRS4. Break all corners and sharp edges.5. Finish: Choice of builder.

58 DIA

5/16 - 24 UNF

34

1 12

PART DESCRIPTION

SHAFTBRAKE ACTIVATOR

PART NUMBER

038SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

38

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 12. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.3. Material: .250 Dia. Cold Rolled Steel (CRS).4. Break all corners and sharp edges.5. Finish: Choice of builder.

8.00

1 12 1

1/4 - 28 UNF - Both ends - Min. full thread as shown

PART DESCRIPTION

TIE RODS - A & B

PART NUMBER

039SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

39

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 1 “A” & 1 “B”2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.3. Material: Per drawing callout.4. Break all corners and sharp edges.5. Finish: Choice of builder.6. Assemble each Tie Rod with lock nut and ball end on each end. Screw on

far enough to keep together as a unit. Do not tighten until final assembly.

Make from 3/8 dia CRS

3/8 - 24 UNF - Min 1-1/2" full thd - both ends

3/8 - 24 Nut (4 req"d)

Tie Rod "A" = 7 in. Long

Tie Rod "B" = 23 3/8 long

3/8 - 24 Ball end - No. PP 203 (4 req'd)

PART DESCRIPTION

FRONT BOLTPILLOW BLOCK

PART NUMBER

040SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

40

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 22. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.3. Material: Make from 3/8 x 5” UNC bolt.4. Break all corners and sharp edges.5. Finish: Choice of builder.

.125 dia - Press in 1/8" x 1" Roll Pin until flush opposite side.

1" (ref)

5 (ref)

Center hole in bolt head

PART DESCRIPTION

GUIDEBRAKE ACTIVATOR

PART NUMBER

041SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

41

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 12. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.3. Material: Per drawing callout. The builder has lattitude to utilize what ever

is on hand to build this guide. 4. Break all corners and sharp edges.5. Press bearings in flush with flange (both ends). The .250 hole thru bearings

must be aligned and free for movement of activator shaft. This may require running drill through holes after assembly.

6. Finish: Choice of builder.

58

34 1 12

3" (ref)

1 14 (ref) 12

14 (ref)

1/4 - 28 UNF - 2 holes

.375 DIA - thru both ends

1 (ref)

PP 242

PP 243 (2)

14 DIA

See notes

PART DESCRIPTION

LINKBRAKE ACTIVATOR

PART NUMBER

042SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

42

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 12. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.3. Material: Make from PP 244 - No. 6065K131 (McMaster - Carr)4. Break all corners and sharp edges.5. Finish: Choice of builder.

Make from No. 6065K131 Rod End Blank (McMaster- Carr)PP 244

.250 DIA 1/4 -28 UNF

1 12Min full thd

3 (ref)

PART DESCRIPTION

ANCHOR BOLTBRAKE BAND

PART NUMBER

043SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

43

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 22. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.3. Material: Make from 3/8 x 24 UNF bolt.4. Cross drill .125 dia as shown.5. Break all corners and sharp edges.6. Press roll pin thru bolt flush with opposite side.7. Finish: Choice of builder.

2 14

12

1/8 x 3/4 Roll pin1

1 in. before threads

PART DESCRIPTION

ANCHOR PINBRAKE BAND

PART NUMBER

044SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

44

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 22. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.3. Material: .375 dia. Cold rolled steel (CRS) or make from Cable Pins,

Part. No. 13663 (Northern Tool)4. Break all corners and sharp edges.5. Press roll pin thru until flush with with opposite side.6. Finish: Choice of builder.

12

1/8 x 3/4 Roll pin1

.375 DIA - CRS

38 (ref)

.125 Dia.

PART DESCRIPTION

MODIFICATIONREAR HUB

PART NUMBER

045SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

45

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 22. Material: Per callout on drawing.3. Carefully remove bearing from one side.4. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.5. Remove burrs after drilling.6. Finish: Paint metal exposed by drilling. Color: Choice of builder.

on 2.000 dia BC4 holes, evenly spaced

Only hub is shown for clarity.

17/64 Dia.

Rear Wheel (Purchased Part No. 206)

PART DESCRIPTION

MODIFICATIONTHROTTLE PEDAL

PART NUMBER

046SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

46

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 12. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.3. Material: Make from Azusa Part No. AZ1806 PP 2454. Break all corners and sharp edges.5. Finish: It’s Zink plated - only touch up raw metal from alteration - any color.

Straighten shank

Remove & discard threaded pin Cut tang off as shown

5/16 Dia (ref)

732

332 DIA

14

PP 245

1.75 (ref)

PART DESCRIPTION

CLAMP MODIFICATIONTHROTTLE CONDUIT

PART NUMBER

047SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

47

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 42. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.3. Material: Make from purchased part.4. Bend tab as shown. This allows sufficient contact with wood to hold in

place.5. Finish: None - already plated.

Make from PP 239

Bend tab up as shown

PART DESCRIPTION

A & BSTEERING SHAFT

PART NUMBER

048SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

48

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 1 each.2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.3. Material: Make from purchased parts per drawing callout.4. Break all corners and sharp edges.5. Finish: Choice of builder.

SHAFT "A" (1 Req'd)

SHAFT "B" (1 Req'd)

PP 232

Make from PP 233

15 12

24 (REF)

You will find that there are some partsthat can best be assembled as a sub-assemblyand then, be attached to the final assembly asa unit.

A perfect example of this is the brake acti-vator assembly as shown on drawing No. 050.

This unit is adjusted after final assembly,to allow proper function of braking mecha-nism. You will note how the brake cable isthreaded through the pulley of this sub-assembly.

This simple mechanism provides equalapplication of braking force to both rearwheel drums.

The next sub-assembly will be the twochain tighteners per drawing No. 057. Theassembly is straight forward with the use of1/4-28 UNF hardware per call out on draw-ing.

An all-thread bolt is made by the jammingof 2 hex nuts on one end.

The next two sub-assemblies are a bitmore difficult. Referring to drawing No. 052,you will see how the adapter, Part No. 034 isattached to a rear wheel. While we onlypower the right wheel, both wheels havebrake drums and require both rear wheels tohave this adapter attached.

Originally, we fastened the adapter andwheel with 1/4-28 socket-head cap screwsand split lockwasher. However, after severalmiles of parade driving, this loosened up onthe driven wheel.

Therefore, we now recommend that inaddition to the lockwasher, the threads becoated with LocTite (Red), making a semi-permanent assembly.

The inner bearing of the wheel had to beremoved for the drilling of the four holes asshown in drawing No. 045. The bearing is notreplaced until after the mounting flange hasbeen attached.

Doing the above described assemblyrequires working in very tight quarters. Along, ball end allen wrench is used to insertand turn the Allen Head screws from theopening in the opposite bearing.

After applying LocTite, tighten all fourscrews as tight as you can get them just shortof breaking the ball end off your wrench.Hopefully, this is the last time you have to dothis.

With the two rear wheels thus done, youmight as well proceed to finishing up the rearwheels by attaching the sprockets and brakedrums per drawing No. 053.

Having an unused sprocket on the leftrear wheel serves a purpose. At first we hada large 1/8 thick disc between the left wheeland the brake drum to assure the brake bandremaining in correct position.

Actually, we learned that making this discwithout a lathe was difficult and, if done by amachine shop, would cost more that an extrasprocket. Also, if you wanted to add a differ-ential in place of the jack shaft, the drivensprocket is there waiting for you.

Meanwhile, it serves the purpose of keep-ing the brake band in place. It, also, serves asa conversation piece. When someone, whilelooking your car over, asks what that sprock-et is for, tell them it is the sending or triggerwheel for your anti-skid braking system!

The front axle can either be sub-assem-bled separately or after it is attached to thechassis board. I prefer the latter. In eithercase it is depicted on drawing No. 054.

The jack shaft can, likewise, be looselyassembled as a sub-assembly. See drawingNo. 061 for reference.

_______________

49

The Sub-Assembly Process

PART DESCRIPTION

ASSEMBLYBRAKE ACTIVATOR

PART NUMBER

050SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

50

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 12. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.3. Material: Per drawing callout4. Finish: Choice of builder.5. A compression spring can be added to area indicated to aid returning of

brake to off position. (Optional)5. Final adjust of this assembly is done at final assembly.

1/4- 28 Hex nut (3)

Note: It may be necessaryto file clevis in this areafor free turning of pulley

Spring optional

PP 235 (1)

PP 214 (3) PP 240 (3) PP 241 (3)

PP 214 (ref)

PP214 (ref)

041

038 042

PART DESCRIPTION

SUB-ASSEMBLYCHAIN TIGHTENER

PART NUMBER

051SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

51

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 22. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.3. Material: Per drawing call outs.4. Break all corners and sharp edges.5. Finish: Previously finished.

1/4 - 28 All Thread Rod - 2 3/4" Lg.

Make head by jamming 2 hex nutswith J B Weld in threads.

1/4 - 28 Hex Nut

1/4 - 28 x 3/4" C'screw & L'washer (2)

036

025

PART DESCRIPTION

SUB-ASSEMBLYREAR WHEEL - FLANGE

PART NUMBER

052SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

52

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 22. Material: Per drawing callout. 3. Apply LocTite (Red) to threads.4. Re-install bearing removed when modifying hub. Use new bearing if

original was damaged.5. Finish: Finished prior to assembly.

1/4 X 28 - 5/8 Long Socket Hd Capscrew (4 req'd)

Only hub is shown for clarity.Part No. 045

Part No. 034

1/4 Lock Washer (4 req'd) - Apply LocTite (Red) to threads.

PART DESCRIPTION

SPROCKET & DRUM REAR WHEEL ASS’Y -

PART NUMBER

053SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

53

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 22. Material: Per callout on drawing.3. Finish: Parts are pre-finished at assembly

5/16 x 24 UNF - 7/8 Long Socket Head C'Screw5/16 Lock Washer4 each req'd

Sprocket - PP No. 218 Northern # 1363 (54 tooth - 41 pitch)

Brake Drum - PP No. 223Northern # 1366 Wheel Sub-Assembly Part No. 052

PART DESCRIPTION

ASSEMBLYFRONT AXLE

PART NUMBER

054SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

54

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 12. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.3. Material: Per drawing callout.4. Break all corners and sharp edges.5. Finish: Parts to be finished before assembly.6. Add 3/8 fender washers to lower spindle brackets as necessary to obtain

proper fit of spindle.

PP 202 PP 228 (2)

PP 201 PP 228 (2)

023 (4) 014

Adjust spacing between brackets, if needed, by placing large, fender washers between lower brackets and wood.

— Lets Build a Car —

I recommend that, before painting any-thing, you completely assemble your car andtest drive it. Don’t use lock nuts this time —merely use regular hex nuts and lock wash-ers. Trailer it to some area where you cansafely drive it around a bit. If you have aproblem, now is the time to find out.

Once you’re satisfied, completely disas-semble, clean all the metal parts withAcetone or other good de-greaser and paintthe color of your choice. My car was finishedwith gloss black on the metal parts andbright red on the wood.

On the final assembly, use nylon lock nutsevery where possible. Where not possible, useLocTite (blue). There’s a lot of unfelt vibra-tion that can loosen hardware and ruin theentire parade for you.

I have not specified the exact lengths andsizes of most hardware as it should be selfevident. When attaching parts to wood, thewood tends to crush under the load of tight -ening the bolts. Hence, the generous use oflarge, fender washers is advised. Build all thesub-assemblies first. Follow the instructionson the specific drawing.

Now, with the chassis board upside downon saw horses, assemble the front and rearaxles, and proceed with the attachment of allparts noted on Drawing No. 058.

From the pictures to the right you see anamazing amount of parts and hardware uti-lized in this “simple” car!

You will use quite a bit of the hardwarewhile working on the underside. However, beprepared to “box it up” when it becomes nec-essary to turn it over and assemble on the topside.

Attach both front and rear axles at thistime. Referring to drawing No. 058 and pho-tos on page 56, attach as many of the partsshown on the next page as possible. Notingthe direction of the bolts you made with the

55

The Assembly Process

The upside down chassis board makes anexcellent place to pile parts and hardware -until you need to assemble from the topside!

56

Photo No 1 - Throttle cable routing underbrake equalizer assemble. Note how thecable is held in place with 3 clamps, Part No.047.

Photo No. 2 - Throttle cable makes its exit totop side through hole drilled at an angle thatwill prevent any restriction to throttle wiremovement. Held in place with clamp, PartNo. 047.

Photo 3 - Attachment of throttle wire to footpedal with “Z” bend in end of wire. Note thecable being held with another clamp No.047. An extension spring has been added toassist throttle returning to idle.

Photo No. 4 - This shot shows the brakeequalizer and how the brake cable is thread-ed to reach the outer puller and finally tobrake band.

Photo No. 5 - Detail of how throttle wire ter-minates at engine. A modified “Z” bendmatches the existing hole in throttle armwhile Clamp, part No. PP 239 attaches toexisting threaded engine hole with 10-32 x1/2 socket head cap screw. An additionalspring added to assist return to idle.

Photo No. 6 - Throttle cable emerges fromjust behind seat support.

roll-pin protruding from the head, installthrough proper hole in both outboard brakepulley mtg. brackets, Part Nos.029A and029B. Leave bolt loose at this time. With theroll-pins pointing forward, the two chassissupports, Part Nos.020 and 021 can be posi-tioned in place. The Foot rest, part No. 013can be installed from the opposite side andloosely bolted in place.

Continue to refer to assembly drawing No.058, which shows the proper location of mostparts under your car.

While the tie rod assemblies are shown onthis drawing, it is best to wait until the steer-ing shaft, part No.048A has been installedbefore attaching the tie rods.

When you are satisfied that the bottommounted parts have been installed as far aspossible, turn the chassis over, revealing thetop side (with slats). You can now mount theseat support. Note: while not called out ondrawing, I placed four large diameter rubberwashers under the seat support (about 2” infrom the four corners. When the mountingbolts are tightened, the rubber washers arecaptivated. Since the chassis flexes underchanging terrain, this allows some “float”between the two parts.

Make sure the seat support does not inter-fere with the throttle cable. Check to insurefree movement of the throttle wire.

Before mounting the jack shaft assembly,it is best to semi-assemble it before hand.Leave all setscrews loose. Refer to Dwg.062.

You should have a bolt protruding up onboth sides of the chassis. Drop both bearingsupport blocks, part Nos 012 over these holes.Next install the chain tension adjusters, partNo.051 over the protruding bolt. Refer todrawing Nos 062 & 063 for detail and orien-tation of the adjusters.

You can now carefully lower the jack shaftassembly onto the support blocks as shownon assembly drawings No.059 and No.062.Install the second bolt up through the chassissupport, chassis, bearing block, chainadjuster and through the elongated hole inthe pillow block. Use as many heavy, flat

washers under the nuts securing the pillowblocks, as possible.

Referring to drawing No.062, locate thelarge sprocket that connects to the engine, inthe center of the clearance slot cut for it. Donot tighten any sets screws yet.

Before continuing with the jack shaft, it isnecessary to mount the rear wheels.However, this is even a better time to mountthe brake band anchor bolts (with the roll-pin). See the brake band installation draw-ing No.064 for details.

To install engine, refer to drawing No. 059and 060. On the prototype the engine wasbolted directly to the chassis board with anengine mounting plate, No. PP 250 separat-ing the engine from the wood.

Actual tests indicated that addition stiff-ness was needed. Therefore, engine supports,drawings No. XXX and XXX were added.They are installed between the wood chassisboard and the engine mounting plate.

You will note, by observing the picture onpage 5, how a 1/4” pipe nipple and elbow wasused to extend the engine’s oil drain plug rearand downward, to enable easy oil changes.

57

PART DESCRIPTION

BOTTOM VIEWCHASSIS ASSEMBLY -

PART NUMBER

058SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

58

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 12. Parts locate per previously drilled holes.3. Material: Per drawing callout.4. Assemble per intructions in text.

PP 236

054

039A

039B

010

023 046

PP 238 PP 239

047

020

050

021

028 PP 235 (2)

029A PP 235

029B PP 235

040 Roll pin

pointing forward

015 026A

026A

026B (2)

040 Roll pin pointing forward

PART DESCRIPTION

TOP VIEWCHASSIS ASSEMBLY -

PART NUMBER

059SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

59

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 12. Parts locate per previously drilled holes.3. Material: Per drawing callout.4. Assemble per intructions in text.5. Slip bicycle handlebar grip onto brake lever to improve grip.

013 027 (See Notes)

030 (2)

017

065

215

216

Attach brake actuator ass'y (below)with 1/4-28 x 1" capscrews & fenderwashers. Bolt head must not interferwith seat support (017).Secure with LocTite (Blue)

PART DESCRIPTION

SIDE VIEWCHASSIS ASSEMBLY

PART NUMBER

060SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

60

NOTES:1. Dis-assemble pillow blocks No. PP 204 and re-assemble with oil cup out

side instead of top hole. This will allow extreme movement of bearingnecessary to match angle of steering shaft.

2. Position the steering shaft to clear front axle by 1/4” and secure in placewith Collars PP 212 and Bearings PP 229.

3. Attach seat to support with 2-1/2” removable pin hinges (2)

Direction of throttle cable

048A PP 234

048B PP 226 PP 227

016 037 (4)

018

For detail see drawing 061

PP 212 (2) PP 229 (2)

PP 204 (2)

Mtg. flange included with 048B

067

068

See notes

14 (ref)

PART DESCRIPTION

SHAFT ASS’Y DETAILSTIE ROD - STEERING

PART NUMBER

061SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

61

NOTES:1. Assemble as shown.2. End of steering shaft to be 1/4” from front axle.2. Use shim washers as shown to premit maximum tie rod travel.3. Secure nuts with LocTite (blue)

PP XXX (typical)

PP XXX (typical)

Apply LocTite (Blue) 2 places

PP 210 (typical)

PP 211 (typical)

Apply LocTite (Blue) 2 places

1/4

PART DESCRIPTION

ASSEMBLYJACKSHAFT

PART NUMBER

062SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

62

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 12. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.3. Material: Per drawing call out.4. Break all corners and sharp edges.5. Finish: n/a

012 PP 225 (Cut to dimension shown) 012

PP 205 (2)

PP 213

051 (2)

PP 220

PP 219

PP 213

PP 217

PP 213

PP 213

30

PART DESCRIPTION

INSTALLATIONCHAIN TIGHTENER

PART NUMBER

063SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

63

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: Typical 2 places.2. Balance of Jack shaft assembly shown on drawing No. 062.3. Material: Per drawing callout.

Front of car

Grease fitting to rear

3/8 Lock Nut& double flat washers

PP 205

PP 225 (ref)

057 (ref)

012 (ref)

PART DESCRIPTION

INSTALLATIONBRAKE BAND

PART NUMBER

064SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2005Everett Moore

64

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 2 (left and right)2. Loosely assemble anchor bolt (043) at this stage. Final adjustment are

made to it and brake cable after rear wheels are mounted.3. Secure brake cable with standard clamp from hardware store.4. Roll-pins of parts 043 and 044 are positioned approximately as shown.

PP 224 (2)

031 (Left ) 032 (Right )

043

044

PART DESCRIPTION

DETAILSAXLE - HUBCAP

PART NUMBER

065SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

65

NOTES:

1. Use dimensions shown. Do not scale drawing.2. Axle = 3/4 dia CRS cut oversize (48”) - Push axle thru axle tube on frame - Install shim

washers and 1 wheel as show above - Install 1 hub cap, cross drill, install cotterpin - Install shim washers and 2nd wheel - Allowing extra length for hub cap,cut off - Install hub cap - cross drill - Install 2nd cotter pin.

3. Add or remove 1/32 shim washers to allow wheels to turn freely without excess-sive end play.

Make from 1/2 in pipe capDrill out to 3/4 dia. - cross drill 5/32 dia.

Attach entire assembly to axle with 5/32 cotter pin

See notes about axle length

Suggest using 2 at first.

PP 246 - 1/32 shim washer (as needed)

PP 247 - 1/8 shim washer (as needed)PP 206Wheel

PART DESCRIPTION

INSTALLATION DWG.DRIVE TRAIN SUPPORT

PART NUMBER

066SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

66

NOTES:1. Quantity per car: 2 (If required)2. Material: Per drawing call out.

024 (2)

PART DESCRIPTION

SEAT CUSHION BASE

PART NUMBER

067SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

67

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 12. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.3. Material: 1/2 inch plywood - 1/4 - 20 x 5/16 “T” nuts (4) - PP 2494. Break all corners and sharp edges.5. Finish: None.6. Suggest using 2 in. of foam covered with appropriate upholstery material

stretched tight and stapled in back. Be sure and not cover up the mountingholes. Alternate: Take to an upholstery shop and let them cover it.

Section A - A 4:1

7 14 21

35 12

AA

11

14

1 12

5/16 dia C'bore 1" dia 1/16 deep

Press 1/4 - 20 "T" nut flushTypical 4 places

PART DESCRIPTION

CUSHION BASESEAT BACK

PART NUMBER

068SCALE

See Notes

Copyright 2004Everett Moore

68

NOTES:1. Quantity required per car: 12. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.3. Material: 1/2 inch plywood - 1/4 - 20 x 5/16 “T” nuts (3) - PP 2494. Break all corners and sharp edges.5. Finish: None.6. Suggest using 2 in. of foam covered with appropriate upholstery material

stretched tight and stapled in back. Be sure and not cover up the mountingholes. Alternate: Take to an upholstery shop and let them cover it.

Section A - A 4:1

Press 1/4 - 20 "T" nut flush

AA

Typical 3 places

7 12

3 34

32

16

5 12

43

4 R

1 R

5/16 dia C'bore 3/4" dia 1/16 deep

Vendor Code = FB Foley-BelsawP.O. Box 419593Kansas City, Mo 641411-800-821-3452

Vendor Code = G * W. W. Grainger, Inc.Website: www.grainger.com

Vendor Code = McC ** McMaster-CarrWebsite: www.mcmaster.com

Vendor Code = MS Manufacturer’s SupplyP.O. Box 167Dorchester, WI 544251-800-826-8563Website: www.mfgsupply.com

Vendor Code = NT Northern Tool & Equipment1-800-556-7885Website: www.NorthernTool.com

Vendor Code = SEW Small Engine Warehouse765-768-6725Website: www.smallenginewarehouse.com

Vendor Code = GKG Go-Kart Galaxy1-903-340-1965Website: www.gokartgalaxy.com

Vendor Code = AS Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Co.1-877-477-7823Website: http://www.aircraftspruce.com

* W. W. Grainger has outlets in most larger cities. You need to contact the one closest to you.Look in a phone book for a larger city near you.

** McMaster-Carr has several locations. They have such a user friendly website that theeasiest way to order from them is on the internet.

Always check our website: www.smallcarplans.com for links to the latest in suppliers.

69

PP No. Qty Description Vendor Code Catalog No.

201 1 Spindle, RH MS AZ2518

202 1 Spindle, LH MS AZ2519

203 4 Ball Joint, 3/8 - 24 MS 10-2214

204 2 Pillow Block, 5/8” Bronze G 2X529

205 2 Pillow Block, 1” Ball Bearing NT 1805

206 4 Pneumatic Spoked Wheel, 26” NT 145123

207 Removed

208 10 Shim Washer, 5/8 X 1 OD X .031 McC 3088A433

209 10 Shim Washer, 5/8 X 1 OD X .125 McC 3088A513

210 10 Shim Washer, 3/8 ID X 5/8 OD X .062 McC 3088A466

211 10 Shim Washer, 3/8 ID X 5/8 OD X .125 McC 3088A511

212 2 Collar, 5/8 ID MS AZ8554

213 4 Collar, 1” ID MS AZ8565

214 4 Clevis, 1/4 - 28 MS AZ8354

215 1 Engine, B&S - 5.5 hp Intek SEW 126312

216 1 Torque Converter Ass’y NT 1377

217 1 Sprocket, #35 - 60 Tooth NT 1361

218 2 Sprocket, #41 - 54 Tooth NT 1363

219 1 Sprocket Hub NT 138291

220 1 Sprocket, #41 - 15 Tooth - 1” Bore McC 6280K534

221 10 ft. #35 Roller Chain NT 136410

222 10 ft. #41 Roller Chain NT 136510

223 2 4” Brake Drum MS 4-485

224 2 4” Brake Band w/pin MS 4-486

225 1 Steel shaft with Keyway 1” OD x 36” McC 1497K102

226 1 12” Steering Wheel MS 4-9396

227 1 Steering Wheel Cap Assembly GKG 1877

228 4 King Pin Bushing (nylon) MS AZ8215

70

229 2 Bronze Bushing - 5/8 ID - 3/4 OD x 1 Lg McC 6391K243

230 2 Connect Link - #41 Chain McC 6261K192

231 2 Connect Link - #35 Chain McC 6261K191

232 1 24” Steering Shaft w/o pitman arms welded MS AZ1868-24

233 1 22” Steering Shaft w/ pitman arms welded MS AZ1867-22

234 1 5/8 x 5/8 Coupling SC 1320-0016

235 5 Control Cable Pulley AS A-124

236 15 ft Control Cable - 3/32 x 7x19 AS 05-04000

237 100 ft Throttle Wire FB 5960245

238 1 Throttle Wire Conduit FB 5960247

239 Pk of 10 Throttle Wire Conduit Clamp FB EGR5979510

240 3 Clevis Pin MS AZ8355

241 3 Cotter Pin MS AZ8419

242 1 Spindle Bracket MS AZ8171

243 2 Bronze Bearing - 1/4 ID - 3/8 OD Flanged McC 6338K413

244 1 Rod End Blank McC 6065K131

245 1 Throttle Pedal MS AZ1806

246 10 Shim Washer, 3/4 ID x 1 1/8 OD x 1/32 McC 3088A434

247 10 Shim Washer, 3/4 ID x 1 1/8 OD x 1/8 McC 3088A514

248 2 Aluminum Disc, 3 1/2 OD x 1/2 thick McC 9035K17

249 7 Tee Nut, 1/4 - 20 x 5/16 High McC 90975A025

250 1 Engine Mounting Plate MS AZ8190

71

Building The1920 Briggs & Stratton

Cycle Car