Createandcraft.tv

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26th May 2013

Quilting Classroom 7Jennie

Rayment

Quilting Classroom 7Tools & Equipment

Sewing machineThread

Rotary Cutter 28/45/60 mm Cutting Mat 17 x 23” Acrylic Ruler - 24.5 x 6.5” Bias cutting ruler Non-slip grip discs for base of rulers Pins - Flower Head preferably Simplicity Waistcoat Pattern 6036 or similar (preferably without darts) Flower pinsMarking pensSeams Right tool Mini iron - CloverMicrotack tool - Groves

Fabric Products 100 x 115 cm Black cotton50 x 115 cm Mid Tan cotton 50 x 115 cm Dark Cream cotton

Wadding/Batting - Hobbs Light weight sew-in interfacing

TUCKS TEXTURES & PLEATSTantalise with Tucks - Beguile with Bias

Explore the fascinating world of weaving, scrunching, tucking and pleating; from the Bias Bobble to the delights of Trumpets and the Origami Twist, plus much more. Includes a fully illustrated sec-tion on finishing techniques and extensive design suggestions for development. Ideal for both beginners and expert needlewomen and men.

(104 A4 pages: colour plates, many diagrams: perfect bound)www.jennierayment.com

A Waistcoat!1. Trace the outline of the relevant pat-tern sections on to light-weightinterfacing; cut out, leaving approximately 2.5 cm/1” excess interfac-ing. Draw a few straight lines on the interfacing help in positioning the textured sections.

2. From the wadding, cut the same sized sections. Pin the interfacing to the wadding. This forms the base for the textured samples. Remember to make a Right and Left interfacing/wadding section for waistcoat front!

Waistcoat Front (Seam Allowance ¼ “)

1. Trim the selvedge from Dark Cream material. Working from this trimmed edge, cut two 5½” wide x length of fabric (approx 20”) strips.

2. On R/S of Dark Cream strip, measure 1¼” from one long side, mark remaining material on R/S at 1¼”, 1”, 1”, 1”, 1¼” intervals.

Fold the fabric along these marks and sew four ¼” tucks (see Tucks Textures & Pleats for more information on making tucks).

3. Press the tucks towards the centre. (Embellish tucks with satin stitch/couched yarn and/or decorative pattern (Tucks Textures & Pleats page 20).

4. Place tucked band on interfacing. Pin in place.

5. Cut two 1½ x 20” strips Mid Tan. Attach one strip to either side of tucked band. Press carefully (Clover Mini Iron excellent for this purpose). Pin in place.

6. Cut a strip from Black material large enough to fit the gap between Mid Tan strip and drawn line on interfacing. The width and length of this strip will depend on the size of waistcoat being made - err on the side of more is better than less but don’t go OTT on the quantity of material!

Attach this strip R/S down to the side of the Mid Tan. Fold back. Pin in place.

7. Repeat on the other side of the Mid Tan strip.

8. Add one further strip of Black material to the end of the centre section. This strip should cover the shoulder section when folded back. Pin in place.

9. Lay the pattern on top. Draw round the edge of the pattern.

10. Mark the tucks at approx 2¼ - 2½” intervals. Twist the tucks in opposite directions on these marks.(See Tucks Textures & Pleats page 17.)

11. Stitch decorative designs/straight parallel lines/free motion stippling on all Black fabric areas.

12. Replace the pattern and cut round edge of pattern. Check that the pattern is correctly positioned. As the waistcoat front is now stitched over and may have shrunk a little - a little re-positioning of the pattern may be necessary.

13. Repeat Stages 3 - 14 and make the other half of the waistcoat front. Be careful when cutting out the final pattern shape to ensure that the two sides of the waistcoat are reasonably identical.

Waistcoat Back (Seam Allowance ¼ “)

1. Measure centre back length. From Dark Cream fabric, cut one 3” strip x centre back measurement.

Sew down centre of this strip with a decorative stitch. Remember to use a stabiliser under the fabric to prevent any dense stitching distorting the fabric surface.

Place the stitched strip on the centre back.

2. Using the Bias ruler or the 45° line on rotary cutting ruler - make a diagonal cut across the complete 50 x 115 cm Mid Tan fabric. Working from this cut edge, cut two 3”wide x full length of diagonal cut.

3. Press 1” over to W/ S along one side of each strip.

4. Butt the folded edges of both strips together on centre of decorative stitching. Stitch these strips in place using ½” S/A. Measure seam from the edge of the fold. Do not panic if the material edges distort. This will all disappear when the folded edge is rolled back in an arc.

5. Cut two 3 x 22” strips Black and three 6” squares Mid Tan.

6. Fold all three Mid Tan squares diagonally and diagonally again to form small triangles.

7. Arrange these folded triangles along the edge of 3” strip. Leave a gap at either end. Slot the triangles into each other leaving a gap at either end. Pin in place.

8. Lay the remaining 3” strip on top. Stitch using 1 cm or 3/8” S/A.

9. Press seam open and flat. Lift shapes and open out to form ‘kite’ shapes . Press carefully.

10. Cut three 2 x 3” rectangles. Fold ½” over along on one long side.

Fold the top corners over so they to touch in centre forming a triangle. Foldopposite points of triangle in so they cross. Stay-stitch along raw edge.

11. Secure the corners of the kite shapes with a few small stitches. Insert the folded shape. Roll back the folded edge and sew in place.

12. Repeat Stages 5 - 11 and make a second identical section.

13.. Sew one of these sections to either side of the central panel.

14. Measure the remaining space and cut two strips this width and length. Stitch one strip to either side of the centre panel. Fold back. Pin in place.

15. On either side, draw a parallel line 2 - 2½” from the top of the shoulder seam.

16. Cut a strip of material large enough to cover this gap. Place raw edge of fabric along the drawn line. Stitch in place using ¼ “S/A. Before pinning in place, trim any excess material from underneath.

17. Place pattern on top. Align centre fold line on pattern with centre of waistcoat back. Draw round pattern.

18. Measure the length of the bias strip panel. Divide into even sections approximately 3” in length. (Allow ¾” at the bottom for S/A when sewing gar-ment together). At these junctions, sew the two edges of the bias folds together with small stitches.

19. Roll back the bias edge to reveal the underlying Dark Cream strip. Sew the rolled edge in place by hand or machine. Use of a small Blind Hem or appliqué stitch is beneficial.

20. Stitch over all remaining areas with decorative patterns/straight parallel lines/free motion stippling.

21. Replace pattern and cut out accurately.

Completing Waistcoat (Seam Allowance 5/8”)

1. Sew all three pieces together along the top seam. Remember to use 5/8” S/A.

Press seam open and flat.

To prevent the seam sticking up when wearing, top stitch from R/S. Trim any excess material to the top stitching.

2. Cut out lining. Sew shoulder seams to-gether. Press seam open and flat.

3. Pin R/S of lining to R/S of waistcoat.

4. Sew round garment as follows:

DO NOT sew the sides of the garment. Start the stitching approximately 1” from sides of garment on each of the four sewn sections. Two sewn sections are round the armholes, one section is along the waistcoat back bottom and the last section starts 1” from side seam, goes round neck and back to finish 1” from side seam. This gap (by the side seam) at the start of all four sections is valuable when sewing the garment sides together.

5. Trim any excess material. Trim seams back to approximately ¼”. Clip curves gently.

6. Turn garment R/S out by inserting hand through back side seam and pulling the waistcoat front through the shoulder seam. This is a bit of a wriggle but work at it carefully. It will turn through!

7. Press waistcoat lightly before sewing side seams.

8. Sew side seams by folding back the lining.

9. Press side seams open. Top stitch and trim excess material.

10. Fold raw edges of lining over. Hand slip stitch lining in place.

11. Top stitch all round waistcoat edges. This retains the lining and makes a neat firm edge to the garment.

Enjoy wearing it!

Copyright: Jennie Rayment 2013.www.jennierayment.com