queen street, toronto's urban treasure (excerpt)
DESCRIPTION
Stunning photography of Toronto's Queen Street, east to west. Architecture, culture, people.TRANSCRIPT
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FISCHERARSENEAU
HUME
nimbus.ca
Fischer•Arseneau•HumeNIMBUS
Fischer•Arseneau•HumeNIMBUS
In Toronto, all roads lead to Queen, thestreet of many colours. Starting in the eastat Neville Park, it cuts through the city allthe way to its western edge. Along the wayit passes through quiet residentialneighbourhoods, historic districts, high-riseenclaves and one of the most exciting andlively shopping areas in the world. MentionQueen Street to any Torontonian of any ageor background and he or she will tell you,it’s the place to be.
Lined with some of the city’s most imposingstructures, including both Toronto’s cityhalls, Old and New, as well countless low-rise buildings that are reinvented overand over again, Queen presents a differentface to every successive generation. Fortourists and locals alike, this is the streetthat never loses its appeal.
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In Toronto, all roads lead to Queen, the street of many colours. Starting in theeast at Neville Park, it cuts through the city all the way to its western edge. Alongthe way it passes through quiet residential neighbourhoods, historic districts, high-rise enclaves and one of the most exciting and lively shopping areas in theworld. Mention Queen Street to any Torontonian of any age or background and heor she will tell you, it’s the place to be.
Lined with some of the city’s most imposing structures, including both Toronto’scity halls, Old and New, as well countless low-rise buildings that are reinventedover and over again, Queen presents a different face to every successive generation.For tourists and locals alike, this is the street that never loses its appeal.
nimbus.ca
$29.95
Fischer•Arseneau•HumeNIMBUS
Fischer•Arseneau•HumeNIMBUS
Fischer-QueenStreet_03-12_cover 12-03-30 7:32 PM Page 1
In Toronto, all roads lead to Queen, the street of many colours. Starting in theeast at Neville Park, it cuts through the city all the way to its western edge. Alongthe way it passes through quiet residential neighbourhoods, historic districts, high-rise enclaves and one of the most exciting and lively shopping areas in theworld. Mention Queen Street to any Torontonian of any age or background and heor she will tell you, it’s the place to be.
Lined with some of the city’s most imposing structures, including both Toronto’scity halls, Old and New, as well countless low-rise buildings that are reinventedover and over again, Queen presents a different face to every successive generation.For tourists and locals alike, this is the street that never loses its appeal.
nimbus.ca
$29.95
Fischer•Arseneau•HumeNIMBUS
Fischer•Arseneau•HumeNIMBUS
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Copyright © George Fischer, Pascal Arseneau and Christopher Hume,2012
All rights reserved. No portion of this book may bereproduced or used in any manner whatsoever includinggraphically, electronically, mechanically or throughrecording or data storage systems without the priorwritten permission of the publisher or, in the case ofphotocopying or other reprography techniques, withoutthe permission of Access Copyright, 1 Yonge Street, Suite 1900, Toronto, Ontario M5E 1E5.
Nimbus Publishing LimitedP.O. Box 9166Halifax, NS B3K 5MB902-455-4286
Printed in China
Graphics: Catharine Barker, National Graphics, Toronto, ON
Library and Archives Canada Cataloguing in Publication
Fischer, George, 1954-
Queen Street : Toronto’s urban treasure / photos,
George Fischer, Pascal Arseneau ; text, Christopher Hume.
Includes index.
ISBN 978-1-55109-891-3
1. Queen Street (Toronto, Ont.)--History--21st century--
Pictorial works. 2. Queen Street (Toronto, Ont.)--Social life
and customs--21st century--Pictorial works. 3. Queen Street
(Toronto, Ont.)--Biography--Pictorial works. 4. Toronto
(Ont.)--History--21st century--Pictorial works. 5. Toronto
(Ont.)--Social life and customs--21st century--Pictorial works.
6. Toronto (Ont.)--Biography--Pictorial works. I. Arseneau,
Pascal, 1968- II. Hume, Christopher, 1951- III. Title.
FC3097.67.F58 2012 971.3'541050222 C2011-908716-2
DedicationSDedicated to my long time friend and publisher at Nimbus – DanSoucoup – who needed a little convincing but finally came aroundand without whom this book would not have been possible. Thanksand good luck in your retirement.
— George Fischer
To the firefighters at Kew Beach Fire Station No. 227, in particularLarry Lalonde for his dedication to preserving the history of thislandmark Fire Hall.
— Pascal Arseneau
To Eileen, Jessica and Alex.— Christopher Hume
AcknowledgmentsGEORGE FISCHER: First and foremost I would like to thankmy sponsors – Cary Green of Verdiroc Holdings. Ron Silversteinfrom Vistek and Bobby and Avi Ross of The Rex Hotel – all of theselong time Queen Street establishments were a major force inproducing this book.
To Ryan Fischer, Sean Fischer and Pascal Arseneau – thanks for thegreat photography and the time spent with me walking up and downQueen Street. To the tattoo model Kailey Miller and Lance Murray –thanks for allowing me the opportunity to photograph your artisticcreation. Thanks as well to David Liss from the MOCCA museumfor graciously allowing me to take interior photographs and to KarenGreen for modeling there. Sincere appreciation to Mike Geronimofor always having a fresh cup of Second Cup coffee and my favouritecookies available; and to my favourite restaurant, Epicure, to Mary-Ann Conly and Allison Dore. Thanks also to Harmony, whodanced for me at Jilly’s.
And as always – thanks to Jean Lepage for braving the cold winterdays to photograph the skaters at Nathan Phillips Square and toCatharine Barker for another great piece of work.
PASCAL ARSENEAU: I would like to thank the people ofQueen Street: the shop owners, the street lovers, locals and visitors.Especially, Chris and Christina Blougouras of Sweet Bliss BakingCompany, and Sharon Shoot of Chocolate by Wickerhead.
Additional CreditsSean Fischer: photos pages 14, 54, 67, 70, 80, 82, 91Ryan Fischer: photos pages 42, 66, 73, 81, 149Catharine Barker: photos pages 52, 63, 214, 222
Museum of Contemporary Canadian Art, pages 32 and 33:Artwork in gallery by: Mat Brown, Jordan MacLachlan, Anders Oinonen, included in the exhibition Ineffable Plasticity.Exterior ants: Napolean Brosseau.
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GEORGE FISCHERPASCAL ARSENEAUCHRISTOPHER HUME
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Queen Street
Spadina AvenueBathurst Street
Ossington Avenue
Dufferin Street
Lansdowne Avenue
Jameson Avenue CAMH
The DrakeMOCCAGladstone
Cadillac Lounge
Trinity BellwoodsPark
Cameron House
HorsTa
St. Nicholas
The road to the heart of Toronto
runs along Queen Street. It may not be
the most imposing thoroughfare in
town, nor the longest, but it is the
liveliest, the most vibrant, successful,
and popular. More than any other, it is the street t
hat
defines Toronto, and that has led t
he way to the re-
urbanization of the downtown cor
e, a process that
continues today.
In contrast to many North American cities, especially in
the U.S., Toronto never emptied out during
the great
post-war, middle-class flight to the suburbs. T
hough large
swaths of downtown were abandon
ed to the poor, most
neighbourhoods remained intact if no
t entirely healthy.
But by the 1970s, when the transf
ormation of Queen
Street and Toronto began, suburb
ia was starting to lose
its appeal. The city beckoned.
The role of Queen Street in the revitalization of
the city
and, more importantly, of the idea of the city, ca
nnot be
underestimated. It became Toronto’s path to urbanity, its
route to the post-modern world of de
nsity and diversity.
That’s why for several decades, Queen has been m
ore
than a street, a way to get from one place to ano
ther. It is
the stage on which Torontonians h
ave
discovered a new way of inhabitin
g the
city. Queen Street raised possibilities
that still intrigue us.
But if Queen is the road to the future,
it’s also a direct link with the past.
As
one of the city’s oldest streets, it da
tes back to the
earliest days of the Town of York in
the late eighteenth
century. Originally known as Lot Street, it wa
s the main
east-west route along which the ci
ty was organized.
Large lots, each approximately one hundre
d acres, were
handed out to loyal servants of the
fledgling nation.
These huge properties extended n
orth from Queen to
what is now Bloor Street. Eventua
lly, these estates were
developed and a city would emerge.
From the start, Queen was a major thoroughfare. Horse-
drawn trolleys quickly appeared to
service the growing
population. They were eventually
replaced by primitive
electric streetcars, whose rather m
ore sophisticated
modern descendants still ply Queen today. As early as
the 1940s, city officials were talkin
g about constructing a
subway beneath Queen, but that wa
s not to be. Instead,
Toronto decided to stay with stree
tcars—or LRVs
(Light Rail Vehicles) as they are n
ow known. Running
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UniversityAvenue
BayStreet Parliament Street
King Street East
BayviewAvenue
Don Valley Pkwy.
St. Patrick
StreetetRiverStreet
Jarvis
Street
ChurchStreet
Yonge Street
The Rex
CampbellHouse
HorseshoeTavern
CTV
OsgoodeStation
OsgoodeHall
Queen Station
NathanPhillipsSquare
EatonCentre
OldCityHall
CityHall
Four SeasonsCentre
St. Michael’sHospital
Moss ParkArmoury
Moss Park501
501
aaVistek Jilly
St. Paul's
The DominionHotel
twenty-five kilometres from east to
west, the Queen
Line, the 501, ranks among the mo
st celebrated in North
America. Regular users complain a
bout over-crowded
cars and traffic congestion, but the
route remains one of
the most heavily used in Toronto.
Despite its problems, the streetca
r knits the street
together in a way that no subway c
ould. And given
Queen’s endless variety, the sheer d
iversity of uses, the
need for surface connection canno
t be underestimated.
After all, Queen includes City Ha
ll (New and Old),
office towers, heritage buildings, lo
w-rise residential
neighbourhoods, high-rise housing
projects, shops, and
restaurants. Fortunately, the 501 p
erforms its task
brilliantly and manages to bring a s
ense of order and
coherence to the street.
The corner of Queen and Yonge, T
oronto’s main street, is
still among the city’s busiest. Build
ings are numbered,
both east and west, starting at Yon
ge. At its eastern
extremity, Queen is a quiet neighb
ourhood road, lined
with houses, parks, and local store
s. It
soon reaches the Beaches (the Be
ach to
purists), the lakeside neighbourho
od
much sought after as a place to liv
e and
play. The buildings here date largel
y
from the early decades of the twen
tieth century. The
most impressive structure, the R.
C. Harris Filtration
Plant, is better known as the “Palac
e of Purification.”
This extraordinary piece of archite
cture combines
Byzantine-style mosaics and Art D
eco flourishes not
usually associated with civic infrast
ructure.
The 1905 Fire Station 227, at 190
4 Queen Street East,
adds a note of elegance to the neig
hbourhood. Like the
filtration plant, it dates from a tim
e in Canadian history
when facilities such as this were se
en as fitting symbols
of a burgeoning civilization in the
Great White North.
We see infrastructure differently to
day—the cheaper the
better—but Toronto is fortunate t
o have a critical mass
of civic heritage, enough to make
things interesting.
Heading west from the Beaches, Q
ueen becomes almost
entirely residential. Modest two-storey
houses line much
of the street, which could be a qui
et neighbourhood road
at this point. But that soon change
s as Queen turns back
into a main artery. Sharp-eyed visi
tors will start to notice
the occasional roadhouse; typicall
y these are
nineteenth-century hotels built to
cater to
people arriving in Toronto from the
east.
Before the advent of the automob
ile and
the highway grid that drivers now
use,
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Queen was one of the main routes
into the city. Look carefully and
you will notice examples at Leslie
Street, Broadview Avenue, and
further west at Sherbourne Street.
Though it’s Queen West that gets
most of the attention,
Queen East—let’s say from Leslie
all the way to
Parliament—now finds itself subje
ct to the forces of
gentrification. This is especially ev
ident east of
Broadview where Queen is lined b
y some of the city’s
most impressive architecture from
the 1800s. The old
Opera House and E. J. Lennox’s B
uilding are particularly
memorable, but so are the dozens
of red-brick structures,
low-rise and street-facing, that crea
te conditions ideal for
revitalization. The most impressiv
e local landmark,
perhaps, is the New Broadview Ho
tel at Queen and
Sherbourne. It dates from the 1890
s and is designed in
the Romanesque Revival style so p
opular in the late
nineteenth century, a time of enor
mous optimism in
Toronto. The same architecture can
be seen in Old City
Hall, that monument to Victorian s
elf-confidence, farther
west on Queen. Today, the hotel is
best known as the
home of Jilly’s, a retro strip club th
at has become a relic
of an earlier time. Though rumour
s of rehabilitation have
abounded for years, Jilly’s has so fa
r defied expectations
and dashed the hopes of the growi
ng army of arrivals
who inhabit the condos that have p
opped up throughout
the neighbourhood.
Crossing the Don River, Queen he
ads toward
Sherbourne, which, truth be told, r
emains one of
Toronto’s most unpleasant intersec
tions. No corner in
Toronto better presents the old im
age of the “inner-city,”
the abandoned core with its infras
tructure of poverty,
homelessness, and addiction. Yet e
ven here, changes are
underway: a row of condos march
ing up Sherbourne will
soon hit Queen and transform
this neighbourhood, too.
A few blocks west at Jarvis
Street, Queen enters the
downtown area. Handsomely renov
ated warehouses are
now full of offices. At Church Stre
et, Queen takes us
back to a time when the city was kn
own as Toronto the
Good, a conservative, God-fearing
community renowned
for its piety. Here, Metropolitan U
nited Church now
serves a grittier crowd made up of
the homeless and
marginalized who abound in these
parts.
But at Yonge, Queen assumes it ro
le as Toronto’s premier
shopping street. The Eaton Centre
, which runs north all
the way to Dundas Street, attracts
more than a million
visitors weekly. With a subway stat
ion at either end, it is
fully accessible by transit, which m
ight help account for
its enduring popularity. Constructe
d in several phases
starting in the late 1970s, the batt
leship-sized Eaton
Centre is one of the city’s great dr
aws for tourists and
locals alike.
From there, it’s only steps to the tw
o most important
buildings in Toronto, City Hall an
d Old City Hall. The
difference between the two is instr
uctive; the latter,
dating from 1899, looks to the futu
re by summoning the
past. By contrast, the former, com
pleted in 1965, is a
modern masterpiece. Not only is t
his one of the finest
and most expressive buildings in T
oronto, it stands
among the great city halls in the w
orld. Nathan Phillips
Square, in front of City Hall, wher
e Torontonians ring in
the New Year and mark significan
t occasions, is the heart
of the city, a place set apart.
After that comes the neo-classical
elegance of Osgoode
Hall, an early nineteenth-century c
ourthouse and one of
Toronto’s oldest buildings. Its unus
ual twisting gates,
Fischer-QueenStreet_03-12_guts 12-03-31 9:04 PM Page 6
originally designed to keep cows o
ut, are still intact, as is
the small, bucolic park inside.
At University Avenue, Toronto’s Ch
amps-Élysées,
Queen becomes Queen Street We
st, or simply, Queen
West. When it went from being the
centre of old
industrial equipment and end-of-lin
e textiles to the new
Bohemia and cultural hub, the sta
ge was set for the
re-urbanization of the city. In retro
spect it’s clear that the
conditions were in place—public t
ransit and cheap
accommodation, compactness and
diversity. Thirty years
later, the chains have moved in and
Queen Street has
lost much of its funkiness. It has b
ecome more corporate
and, therefore, more predictable. S
till, the forces of
gentrification have not succeeded
in killing the eclectic
vitality of the street, which survives
in cafes, bars,
and restaurants such as The Rex, Q
ueen Mother,
Rivoli, Horseshoe Tavern, and Pete
r Pan, all
Toronto institutions.
One result of this commercial onsl
aught is that Queen
West has moved even farther west
. By the early 2000s, it
had reached as far as Dufferin Stre
et. In the process, a
pair of run-down nineteenth-centu
ry hotels—the Drake
and the Gladstone—were given to
p-to-bottom remakes.
Both are now artistic and social hu
bs, with rooms
designed by local artists.
Even the Centre for Addiction and
Mental Health, long
a blight on Queen as it runs throu
gh Parkdale at
Ossington Street, has been integra
ted into the urban
fabric. Since the late nineteenth c
entury when the first
Provincial Lunatic Asylum was con
structed, the site has
been isolated, a place set apart fro
m the larger
community. Today the complex is
being rebuilt as a fully
incorporated part of the neighbou
rhood. New streets
now extend south from Queen to f
orm new blocks. The
idea, of course, is to do away with
old distinctions about
who belongs in the city and who do
esn’t.
West Queen West, as it’s known, h
as brought the energy
of earlier times to a long neglected
stretch of the street.
Though the building stock tends to
be run down, that’s
quickly changing. In fact, Queen i
s lined with handsome
structures that provide housing as
well as retail
opportunities. Further to the west,
Queen becomes
increasingly residential; the landsc
ape here feels more
celebratory. With Lake Ontario su
ddenly visible across
the road, these buildings—mostly
apartments and
houses—have a direct connection
with the water. The
result is a kind of holiday architect
ure, less dignified
perhaps, but also more entertainin
g. The heyday of
Sunnyside Amusement Park, a po
pular destination on
the edge of the lake at Roncesvalle
s Street torn down in
the 1950s to make way for the elev
ated Gardiner
Expressway, is long over, but its sp
irit survives on Queen.
Beyond that, Queen moves into th
e post-war city. The
501 streetcar continues west throu
gh Etobicoke to the
border with Mississauga, but the t
opography differs
wildly. Buildings no longer need to
address the street and
roads become highways. Queen tu
rns into the
Queensway and urban gives way to
suburban.
That, too, will change. The challen
ge will be to create
streets like Queen, streets that can
carry the lifeblood of
the city as happily as they do traff
ic. The brilliance of
Queen lies in its ability to connect
disparate parts of the
city both in space and time. Old an
d new, big and small,
residential and corporate, sacred a
nd profane, Queen
embraces it all—and with a style a
nd vitality unmatched
not just in Toronto, but Canada.
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WEST QUEEN WEST
West Queen West is a livingdemonstration of urban renewalas done from the bottom up.
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9West queen West
This is the new frontier, the stretch of QueenStreet where urban revitalization meets urbandecay. The results can be fractious, but as theforces of gentrification gain strength, the long-overlooked charms of the area have beenrevealed for all to see. The quality of thehousing stock in these parts leaves renovatorsdrooling. Parkdale, a late-19th-centuryneighbourhood built to accommodateToronto’s burgeoning haute bourgeoisie, fellinto disfavour starting in the 1950s. Cut offfrom Lake Ontario by an elevated highway, theGardiner Expressway, Parkdale was also avictim of suburban flight. Queen becamerundown; its abandoned mansions were turnedinto flophouses. Many were demolished tomake way for cheaply constructed apartmenttowers that exacerbated the decline. By thebeginning of the 21st century, the very nameParkdale was synonymous with inner-citypoverty and crime.
At the same time, however, youngTorontonians were rediscovering theneighbourhood’s charms. Old landmark hotelssuch as the Drake and the Gladstone werereinvented as cultural and entertainment hubs.With their rejuvenation in the mid-2000s, 50
years of neglect came to a grinding halt. Linedwith impressive two- to four-storey buildings –shops at ground level, apartments above –Queen is ideally suited to the urbanenvironment. This basic configuration allowsfor each generation to make of the street whatit wants. The artists and designers who arrivedhere starting in the late 1990s did their jobwell, perhaps too well. The issue now is how tokeep this extraordinarily creative precinctintact while allowing growth to occur, adifficult balancing act in any city.
Also of special note is the on-goingredevelopment of the Centre for Addictionand Mental Health at Queen and Shaw.Dating from the mid-1800s, this was theToronto Lunatic Asylum, a fortress-likestructure hidden behind an enormous brickwall. By contrast, the new complex, whichreflects more contemporary attitudes, hasbeen opened up and fully integrated into thelarger community.
Pedestrian-scaled and wildly varied, rich inheritage architecture and modern design, WestQueen West is a living demonstration of urbanrenewal as done from the bottom up.
1PARKDALEVILLAGE
RONCESVALES VILLAGE
BEACONSFIELDVILLAGE
Bathurst Street
Ossington Avenue
Dufferin Street
Lansdowne AvenueRoncesvalles Ave
nue
King Street WestJameson Avenue
CAMH
The DrakeMOCCAGladstone
Cadillac Lounge
Trinity BellwoodsPark
St. Nicholas
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10 West queen West
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11West queen West
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13West queen West
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14 West queen West
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15West queen West
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17West queen West
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18 West queen West
GLADSTONE HOTEL – This imposing landmark structure at thecorner of Queen and Dufferin St. opened in 1889 to serve theParkdale train station across the road. Now the longestcontinuously operating hotel in Toronto, it was purchased by theZeidler family in 2000. They renovated the building and turned itinto an arts hub, a place where musicians and artists show off theirstuff. The dignified red-brick heap, a Romanesque beauty, hasnever looked better.
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19West queen West
DRAKE HOTEL – Hard to believe that the Drake Hotel as weknow it today has only been around since 2004. But in a few shortyears, this old building, which opened in 1890 as Small’s Hotel, hasbecome an important cultural hub. With rooms designed by localartists, this hugely popular venue has helped revive a stretch ofQueen West that is now transformed. A happy mix of history andcontemporaneity, the Drake was the first such place to harness theenergy of the Toronto arts scene.
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20 West queen West
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22 West queen West
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24 West queen West
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25West queen West
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26
The elegant eight-storey building now under construction at the southwest corner of Queen Street West andOssington Avenue is the first non-CAMH, private sector building to be developed on leased lands in the revitalizedCAMH Urban Village.
AndCo Architects designed the building to meet the needs of excellent design and affordability, to act as a gateway tothe renewed CAMH community and to create an urban village that is integrated into the neighbourhood at large.Verdiroc Development Corporation and Greenwin Inc. partnered with Forum Equity Partners Inc. in giving back tothis Queen St. community. This continues Greenwin/Verdiroc’s 65-year building history in Toronto.
West queen West
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27West queen West
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28 West queen West
THE CENTRE FOR ADDICTION AND MENTAL HEALTH – Few sites do a better job illustrating how attitudeshave changed over time. The original complex was an ominous 19th-century structure set behind a huge brick wall. Themessage was clear: Stay away. Its remains now form the backdrop to a new series of modernist buildings fullyconnected to the city beyond. What was once carefully hidden away from public view is now happily integrated intothe larger neighbourhood.
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TRINITY PARK –The epitome of theurban green space,Trinity is one ofToronto’s mostactive parks, agenuineneighbourhoodamenity andgathering place forall. Laid outoriginally as thegrounds of TrinityCollege, whichopened in 1852,the expansive sitestill has an aura ofVictorian gentilityabout it. Theschool eventuallyjoined theUniversity ofToronto and in the1950s, the buildingwas demolished,the first of manyheritage structuresto be torn down.The gates at thesouth entrance areall that remains ofthe college.
30 West queen West
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MOCCA – Installed in a post-war textile factory, the Museum of ContemporaryCanadian Art is the only visual arts institution of its sort in Toronto. Since relocating from the suburbs of North York at the beginning of 2005, MOCCAhas made significant contributions to the cultural and artistic landscape of theWest Queen West neighbourhood. It has become a major player on the city’sartistic scene evolving alongside the emerging culture and vibrancy of thedistrict. It’s also part of the wave of new development that has changed the faceof Queen St. and brought new life to a long-neglected neighbourhood.
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33West queen West
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34 West queen West
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36 West queen West
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39West queen West
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40 West queen West
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43West queen West
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45West queen West
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46 West queen West
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48 West queen West
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49West queen West
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50 West queen West
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52 West queen West
The Tiger Sharks rock the Cadillac Lounge.
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queen west
St. What began as an artists’
colony ended up a fashionableplace to live, work and play.
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QUEEN STREET
This is where Queen Street changedToronto. It is a process that continues butwhich has already remade the face and feel ofthe city. That transformation, which started inthe late 1970s, has taken the usual route.What began as an artists’ colony ended up afashionable place to live, work and play.Happily, even the deadening effects offranchised retail and corporate brandinghaven’t yet managed to kill the street’sremarkable effervescence. Though not knownfor its architectural landmarks, Queen Westhas a continuity and sense of rhythm that feelprofoundly in sync with the pace of walking.Storefronts, which are generally between 4.5 and 7 metres (15 to 22 feet) wide, sit closeenough to one another that they create astrong and engaging streetscape.
Queen West is commercial landscape; thatmeans most interest is focused on what’shappening on the ground floor. But those whomake the effort to look up will find it’s worththe effort. Richly decorated gables andelaborate bay windows are the legacy ofVictorian optimism in Toronto. The north sideof Queen east of Peter St., for instance, is oneof the great remaining blocks of an earlier era.
Here, steeply peaked roofs and multi-colouredmasonry facades speak of a deep and growingfaith in the city.
Unbeknownst to them, Toronto’s forefathersbuilt a closely-knit, fully coherent, urban realmthat remains viable to this day. There’s nobetter example than the CTV TV studios at299 Queen (on the southeast corner of John St.). Constructed in 1912 as theheadquarters of the Methodist Church ofCanada, this exquisite neo-Gothic weddingcake is clad in white terracotta. The century-old structure has been updated and turnedinto a giant television studio; even the parking lot with its landmark news truckbreaking through the east exterior wall, iscamera-friendly.
West of Bathurst, the architectural qualitydrops off, but not the appeal of the street,which remains diverse and utterly compelling.The imposing south entrance to Trinity-Bellwoods Park, refurbished in the mid-2000s,is all that remains of Trinity College,demolished in 1950, a time when heritagebuildings were dropping like flies across North America.
2ART & DESIGN
DISTRICT
TRINITY BELLWOODS
FASHION DISTRICT
SOHO
55QUEEN west
Queen Street
Spadina AvenueBathurst Street UniversityAvenue
BayStreet Parliament Str
St. Patrick
Streetet
Jarvis
Street
ChurchStreet
Yonge Street
The Rex
CampbellHouse
Cameron House
HorseshoeTavern
CTV
OsgoodeStation
OsgoodeHall
Queen Station
NathanPhillipsSquare
EatonCentre
OldCityHall
CityHall
Four SeasonsCentre
St. Michael’sHospital
Moss ParkArmoury
Moss Park501
501
aaSt. Nicholas
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Looking west across University from the roof of the Sheraton Hotel.
The 501 Queen runs 24.8 kilometres – the longestroute on the TTC, and one of the longest streetcarroutes in North America.
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63QUEEN west
As any self-respecting graffiti artis
t would tell you, graffiti should no
t under any circumstances be
confused with tagging. The latter is
a mindless marking of property; t
he former is art. Or so one hopes.
Some practitioners are better than
others, of course, but as a cultura
l sub-genre, graffiti has come in
from the cultural cold. A handful
of artists even manage to make a li
ving at their craft. Those few
locations where spraying is legal ar
e ideal places to see that state-of-th
e-art form. The context may be
rough, the results are anything but
.
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64 QUEEN west
The recent popularity of tattooing could probably have been predicted.Along with body piercing and plastic surgery, body painting offers ampleevidence of the primal urge to adorn ourselves. Just as Queen Street Westhas been appropriated by the mainstream retailers, tattoos have becomerespectable. They have also become ubiquitous; maybe that’s why parlourssuch as this have survived Queen’s transition into the 21st century so well.First it was kids who were interested; now it’s their parents.
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65QUEEN west
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69QUEEN west
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71QUEEN west
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72 QUEEN west
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74 QUEEN west
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77QUEEN west
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80 QUEEN west
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CAMERON HOUSE – Except for the giant ants crawling up the walls, it would be easy to miss this drab butlegendary club/hotel. The three-storey red-brick building was essential to the phenomenon that became Queen StreetWest. In its heyday, this run-down heap was the pre-eminent artists’ bar in Toronto. As a cultural and social hub, itsimportance was huge. Artists, musicians and writers gravitated to its shabby but vibrant spaces. The scene has sincemoved on, but the Cameron lurches on.
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83QUEEN west
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85QUEEN west
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89QUEEN west
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92 QUEEN west
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93QUEEN west
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97QUEEN west
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98 QUEEN west
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99QUEEN west
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100 QUEEN west
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101QUEEN west
THE REX HOTEL – One of Toronto’s most celebrated jazz clubs, The Rex has a long andcolourful history that goes back all the way to the 19th century. A fixture on the Queen Streetscene for generations, The Rex is an extremely popular musical venue.
Family owned over three generations, The Rex has morphed from a working man’s beverageroom and neighbourhood rooming house into a live jazz and blues mecca and a friendly littlehotel providing a comfortable and interesting alternative to the standard accommodationavailable in the heart of downtown.
With its outdoor patio and handsome red-brick facade, this is one of those buildings that hasmanaged to find new meaning in the 2000s.
Owner Bobby Ross
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102 QUEEN west
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103QUEEN west
CAMPBELL HOUSE – One of the oldest buildings in Toronto,this marvellous 1822 Georgian house has lost none of its dignityin the intervening years. Built further east in what was then theTown of York, the Palladian mansion was dug up and trucked toits current location at Queen and University Avenue in 1972.The move helped focus attention on the wholesale destructionof Toronto’s heritage architecture then in progress.
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104 QUEEN west
BELL MEDIA BUILDING – Clad in creamy terracotta,this exquisite Gothic Revival palace opened in 1913 as theheadquarters of the Methodist Church. Its richly decoratedfacades tell an eloquent architectural story that connectsthe building to medieval precedents. By the late 1980s,however, the building had been transformed into a giantstudio for CITY-TV. In the process, it also became one ofthose sites where crowds gathered regularly to watch whatwas happening inside.
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105QUEEN west
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107QUEEN west
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DOWNTOWN
New City Hall, including Nathan Phillips Square, has become
the true civic heart of Toronto.
U
C
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109Downtown
QUEEN STREET
Queen St. doesn’t have one City Hall; ithas two, Old and New. Situated on the northside of the street east and west of Bay St.,these two buildings are a study in contrasts.Though each is remarkable in its own way, thepair couldn’t be more unlike one another. Theolder of the two, which Torontonians still callOld City Hall, opened in the last days of the19th century. Designed by Toronto’s mostfamous architect of the time, E.J. Lennox, inthe Romanesque Revival style, it wascontroversial at first, mainly because of costs.
By the time New City Hall opened in 1965,Toronto was a community transformed. Morethan any other single building, this dramaticNeo-Expressionist essay, the work of Finnisharchitect Viljo Revell, brought Toronto intothe modern age. Almost 50 years after itscompletion, Revell’s masterpiece still lookslike a harbinger of architecture yet to come.With its circular council chamber, surroundedby two curved towers, this unique complex,including Nathan Phillips Square, has becomethe true civic heart of Toronto.
Directly west, Osgoode Hall, started in 1832,is a stately neo-classical structure originally
built as headquarters for the Law Society ofUpper Canada. It has been added to over thedecades, but retains its early 19th-centuryflavour, most notably in the green park inwhich its sits. The wrought-iron fence andgates that surround the building are ahighlight. The entrances, which locals call“Cow Gates,” are said to have been designedto keep out wandering bovines.
Across the road, on the southeast corner ofQueen and University Ave., is the FourSeasons Centre for the Performing Arts.Though its acoustics have been universallypraised, Toronto’s new opera and ballet housereceived mixed reviews when it opened in2006. Somewhat less than spectacular, itmakes modesty a virtue.
Also of interest are the Eaton Centre, a 1970sshopping centre that mixes elements of theGalleria in Milan and a typical suburban mall.It faces south onto Queen, and towards ahandsome Chicago Style department storenow occupied by the Hudson’s Bay Company.
3ENTERTAINMENT
DISTRICT
CORKTOWN
MOSS PARK
UniversityAvenue
BayStreet Parliament Street Broadview A
King Street East
BayviewAvenue
Don Valley Pkwy.
RiverStreet
Jarvis
Street
ChurchStreet
Yonge Street
CampbellHouse
OsgoodeStation
OsgoodeHall
Queen Station
NathanPhillipsSquare
EatonCentre
OldCityHall
CityHall
Four SeasonsCentre
St. Michael’sHospital
Moss ParkArmoury
Moss Park501
501
aaVistek Jilly’s
St. Paul's
The DominionHotel
The Real Jerk
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110 Downtown
OSGOODE HALL – This imposing Georgian complex dates back to the 1830s. As the home of the Law Society ofUpper Canada, it provides a fitting architectural expression of the legal profession and, indeed, of the legal systemitself. Richly embellished interiors speak of an earlier age, a time when the idea of gravitas was taken very seriously.Sitting in a magical lawn surrounded by one of the city’s most imposing wrought-iron fences, Osgoode Hall remainsa vital part of modern Toronto.
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OLD CITY HALL –Designed by E. J. Lennox,the most prominent architectin 19th-century Toronto, thisRomanesque Revival heapcrowns the “Bay StreetCanyon” now as it did whencompleted in 1899. A rousingsymbol of civic optimism, thiswas Toronto’s City Hall untilNew City Hall replaced itnext door. Though themassive sandstone structurecame close to being torndown in the 1970s, it is nowfirmly established as one ofToronto’s most belovedbuildings, its future secure.
114 Downtown
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116 Downtown
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118 Downtown
Stained glass windows, Old City Hall
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119Downtown
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NEW CITY HALL – This isthe building that changedhow the world viewedToronto and how Torontoviewed itself. Opened in1965, it made the citymodern. Set back fromQueen Street facing NathanPhillips Square, this is a rareexample of a civic space thatreally serves its purpose.Torontonians ring in the NewYear here. Families comehere to skate, attend concertsand gawk. Formal yetinviting, New City Hallcomes closer than any otherpiece of architecture toexpressing the meaning of acivic democracy.
120 Downtown
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121Downtown
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122 Downtown
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123Downtown
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124 Downtown
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125Downtown
THE EATON CENTRE – Toronto’s most popular downtown mall, this battleship-sized shopping centre offers one ofthe great commercial spaces in the city. Architect Eberhard Zeidler, inspired by the Galleria in Milan, created asoaring atrium large enough to accommodate a whole flock of carved Canada geese. Accessible from two subwaystations, it attracts over one million visitors weekly. That makes it one of Toronto’s most popular spots. Recentadditions along Yonge St. have made it more accessible than ever.
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128 Downtown
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129Downtown
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130 Downtown
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131Downtown
ST. MICHAEL’S HOSPITAL – This nondescript building, hidden behind an emergency entrance for ambulances, hasemerged as a major presence on Queen. Located just east of Yonge St., it is the ultimate downtown health care facility.Recent additions – the Li Ka Shing Knowledge Institute and the Keenan Research Centre – have helped bring thehospital into the modern age.
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135Downtown
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136 Downtown
RICHARD BIGLEY HOUSE – Constructed by carpenter Richard Bigleyin the 1870s, this wonderful downtown building is a reminder thaturbanism did not begin with us. With its oversized bay windows andextensive architectural detailing, Bigley’s place has lost none of its charm.In 1999, it was converted into “hard lofts,” and remains a part of the cityto this day. Popular with photographers, this is one of Toronto’s mostphotogenic addresses.
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138 Downtown
In 1878, Robert Davies, a member
of a prominent brewing
family, built the Dominion Brewery
on the corner of Queen
and Sumach Streets, then the hea
rt of Toronto’s brewing and
distilling district known as Corkto
wn. Throughout the late
1800s and until its closing in 1936
, the Dominion
brewed world-famous ales and lage
rs.
Vistek, Canada’s largest profession
al and video
store, moved to the east section of
the building
in 1993. In 2010, after spearheadi
ng an
extensive renovation project, Viste
k moved
their executive offices to the west
building
and now occupies more than two-
thirds of
this historic landmark.
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140 Downtown
THE DOMINION HOTEL –This 1889 building was one of anumber of hotels built alongQueen Street when it was themain road into town. Today ithas been resurrected as a jazzclub and restaurant. Though offthe beaten track, the formerhotel would be a noticeableelement in any location. Here itserves as a reminder of a timewhen Queen St. E. bustledwith visitors and activity. Theneighbourhood has evolvedinto something moreresidential, a place to liverather than stay.
Satin Dolls performing at the Dominion on Queen.
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145Downtown
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146 Downtown
MOSS PARK ARMOURY
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150 Downtown
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151Downtown
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152 Downtown
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153Downtown
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154 Downtown
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leslieville
These days, Queen East isquickly evolving into a
fashionable area…
st
Do
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157leslieville
QUEEN STREET
East of Yonge St., which divides Torontonorth/south up the middle, Queen continuesto be diverse and varied. The office towersthat line the street at Yonge quickly give wayto hospitals and then, at the aptly namedChurch St., to several impressive 19th-centurycathedrals – St. Michael’s (1848) andMetropolitan United, known as the“Cathedral of Methodism” when it opened in1872. Both structures show signs of decay andare in need of cleaning, but neither has lost itsneo-Gothic splendour, hidden though it maybe under many decades of grime.
East of Church, Queen retains many of itsoriginal buildings, though some have beenpainted garish colours to serve the marketingneeds of their new owners. The two pizzajoints at Church – one covered in a coat ofyellow paint, the other in orange-and-whitetiles – are examples of the fate that can befallheritage sites in such a fast-changing city.Beyond that, Queen enters a stretch thatawaits rediscovery. The corner of Queen andSherbourne St. has seen better days, thoughantique lovers will want to check out the block
west of the intersection where numerousdealers peddle their wares.
The large green space across the road on thenorth side of Queen is Moss Park Armoury,not an architectural icon, but a landmark.Continuing along Queen, the landscapebecomes more residential, a row of workers’cottages can be seen on the south side west ofRiver St. Once Queen crosses over the DonRiver, it returns to a more commercialorientation. Though it hasn’t been fashionablefor many decades, the intersection of Queenat Broadview Ave. is a gateway to Leslieville, aneighbourhood awash in superb architecture,much of its overlooked. The Opera House(1909), the former Postal Station G (1913)and the old Bank of Commerce (1905) arethree examples of the high quality of designcharacteristic of the neighbourhood’s early years.
These days, Queen East is quickly evolvinginto a fashionable area whose shops,restaurants and various attractions haveattracted the attention of a larger audience.Though it has yet to reach the stature ofQueen West, there’s every reason to believethat will happen. It’s only a matter of time.
4QUEEN
BROADVIEWVILLAGE
GARDEN DISTRICT
RIVERSIDE
Jones AvenueCoxwell Avenue Kingston
Broadview Avenue
st
BayviewAvenue
Don Valley Pkwy.
RiverStreet
JimmySimpsonPark
WoodbinePark
JonathanAshbridge Park
Jilly’s
The Real Jerk
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160 leslieville
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162 leslieville
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164 leslieville
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165leslieville
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166 leslieville
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167leslieville
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168 leslieville
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170 leslieville
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171leslieville
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172 leslieville
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173leslieville
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176 leslieville
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180 leslieville
THE REAL JERK – This pioneeri
ng
restaurant was one of the first to
introduce Jamaican cooking to
Toronto. That was almost thirty ye
ars
ago; since then the eatery at Queen
and Broadview has become a fixtu
re.
Installed in an old neighbourhood
bank built in the 1970s, the popul
ar
eatery helped turn around the
fortunes of this east-end intersecti
on.
Perhaps as a result of its own succ
ess,
the Real Jerk’s own future at this
location is now threatened.
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182 leslieville
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184 leslieville
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185leslieville
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186 leslieville
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188 leslieville
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190 leslieville
JILLY’S – This dignified but playful building, officially theNew Broadview Hotel, has seen better days; though it stillfunctions as a hotel, it’s best known locally as the home ofJilly’s, one of Toronto few remaining strip clubs. Constructed in1893, the four-storey Romanesque hall has been an east-endlandmark for more than a century. As the neighbourhoodcomes under pressure from the forces of gentrification, Jilly’sdays would appear to be numbered. Who knows what fateawaits the building?
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191leslieville
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THe Beach
…this primarily residentialarea has a feel unlike any
other in the city.
C
k
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193the beach
Unique among Toronto neighbourhoods,the Beach community is the one whoseconnection to Lake Ontario is central to itsidentity. For that reason, this primarilyresidential area has a feel unlike any other inthe city. Wandering the side streets that extendnorth and south from Queen, one can seehouses originally built as cottages, recreationalproperties situated to take advantage of thewaterfront location. And, yes, there really is abeach. Indeed, there are several, all accessibleand though many would feel leery aboutactually getting their feet wet, city officialsinsist the water is clean and safe for swimming.
Still, for most Torontonians, the appeal of theBeaches is the Queen St. commercial stripthat extends east of Woodbine Ave. almost toNeville Park, where the old City of Torontoended and the old Borough of Scarboroughbegan. That also happens to be the site of theextraordinary R.C. Harris Water TreatmentPlant. This remarkable structure, whichbecame operational in 1941 but remains a vitalelement of the urban infrastructure, is knownlocally as the “Palace of Purification.”
By contrast, the bulk of the architecture hereis not nearly as grand as the plant. Harris’
heroic scale and exotic architecture contrastwith the humble, mostly two- and three-storeysemi-detached houses that make up theneighbourhood. The heavy presence ofbeaches and parks gives the area a holidayatmosphere not found anywhere else in thecity. Though the architecture along Queen isnot uniformly of the highest quality, it hardlymatters. The attraction of the Beaches lies inthe sheer variety of what’s available. Thiscontinues to be a part of town whereindividual merchants outnumber the retailchains with which we are so familiar.
As is so often the case in turn-of-the-centuryToronto, the major buildings are those thatserve a larger societal purpose. The delightfulFire Station No. 227, for example, dates from1905 but is also still in active service. Keep inmind, however, that it was designed toaccommodate horse-drawn fire engines. Inmany respects, the neighbourhood has hardlychanged since then. Though new developmenthas occurred, the Beaches remains defiantlylow-rise. The condo towers that define somuch of the city are nowhere in evidencearound here. The result is that Queen East hasa pleasant retro feel, something that seems togrow more important with the passage of time.
5THE BEACH
FALLINGBROOK
RIVERDALE
Coxwell Avenue Woodbine AvenueKingston Road
Victoria Park Avenue Fallingbrook
Road
WoodbinePark
k KewGardens
St. Aidan’sThe Fox
Fire Station227
R.C. HarrisWater Filtration P
lant
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196 the beach
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Toronto can consider itself blessed
with a number of superb fire stati
ons
dating from the late 19th and early
20th centuries. With their clock tow
ers,
large arched entrances and elabor
ate architectural detailing, these
buildings are much beloved throu
ghout the city, each one a neighbo
urhood
icon. Fire Station 227, completed
in 1905, is an especially celebrator
y
example. Recently restored, it date
s from a time when firefighting
equipment was drawn by horses. T
he station remains in use today.
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200 the beach
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201the beach
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202 the beach
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203the beach
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205the beach
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206 the beach
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208 the beach
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209the beach
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210 the beach
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211the beach
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R. C. HARRIS WATER FILTRATION PLANT –Dubbed the Palace of Purification, this extraordinarystructure is far and away the grandest facility of its kindin Toronto. Given its utilitarian purpose, sucharchitectural ambition seems all the more remarkable.Constructed in the 1930s, it stands among the greatmonuments of a society that valued infrastructure – andtook it very seriously. Designed by Thomas Pomphrey,this Art Deco masterpiece still filters 950 milliongallons every day, almost half the city’s water supply.
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217the beach
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218 the beach
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219the beach
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220 the beach
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221the beach
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222 QUEEN west
Change never stops on QueenStreet. Speakers’ Corner,where anyone could unloadtheir rant for a loonie, is longgone. It was part of theoriginal CITY-TV building,now the Bell Media building.
Torontonians were alsosaddened by the 2002 closureof the Bamboo after 25 yearsin the area. Not only did thisrestaurant/music hall helplaunch Queen Street West, itsfamous murals, painted byToronto artist Barbara Klunder,gave the ’80s its look. It isremembered fondly.
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223QUEEN west
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George Fischer is one of
Canada’s most renowned and
prolific landscape
photographers. He has
produced over 40 books and
50 art posters. His work has
also appeared on the covers of
numerous international
magazines and newspapers,
and in the promotional
publications of tourism
agencies around the world.
His most recent publication
Unforgettable Canada, was on
The Globe and Mail’s bestseller
list for eight weeks and sold
over 50,000 copies. Other
titles in the Unforgettable
series include: Unforgettable
Tuscany & Florence,
Unforgettable Paris Inoubliable,
Unforgettable Atlantic Canada,
The 1000 Islands –
Unforgettable, and Les Îles de la
Madeleine Inoubliables.
George Fischer resides in
Toronto, Canada.
See more of George Fischer’s work at
www.georgefischerphotography.com
Pascal Arseneau is a
Toronto-based photographer
originally from Îles de la
Madeleine, Quebec.
Together with George Fischer,
he has produced a series of
books on the regional cuisine
of Quebec.
His travel and landscape
photography has been
featured in editorial and
advertising, and he received in
2001 the “Travel Photography
of the Year Award” by Islands
Magazine.
Christopher Humeis the
veteran architecture critic and
urban issues columnist of the
Toronto Star. In addition to
winning a National
Newspaper Award, Canada’s
highest award in print
journalism, in 2009, he has
received five NNA
nominations. That same year,
Hume was given the Royal
Architectural Institute of
Canada President’s Award for
Architectural Journalism. His
book, William James’ Toronto
Views, won a Toronto Heritage
Award in 2000. In 2005,
Hume was named Toronto’s
best newspaper columnist by
NOW magazine in 2005 and
Eye magazine in 2006. More
recently, Hume hosted and
wrote a one-hour special
about Canadian cities for
CBC TV’s flagship series,
The Nature of Things.
Educated at the University
of Toronto and Glendon
College, Hume is known as a
champion of cities and the
arts. He lives in Toronto.
Photo: Sue Coyne
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