q21q21 vinegar lime

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Q21Q21's Lime and Vinegar Jimjam party Materials required: IMPORTANT: The lime, the vinegar, the d-limonene/xylene and MHRB MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek. The vast majority or problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials. This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it "It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD" Extraction Specific: 30g or more Mimosa Hostilis root bark (MHRB) 250ml or more 5% White vinegar (CH3COOH) 30g or more Lime (Ca(OH)2) 125ml or more d-Limonene or Xylene one Container, 1000ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one or more hopsticks or wooden spoon (to stir the gooey bark) Some Seal-able and shakable container, 500ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic or glass) or a Separatory funnel one Turkey baster (HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one Stove or Kettle one Pot or Pan Useful tools one or more Funnels one Rice cooker

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Q21Q21's Lime and Vinegar Jimjam partyMaterials required:

IMPORTANT:

The lime, the vinegar, the d-limonene/xylene and MHRB MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek. The vast majority or problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials. This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it "It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD"

Extraction Specific:30g or more Mimosa Hostilis root bark (MHRB)250ml or more 5% White vinegar (CH3COOH)30g or more Lime (Ca(OH)2)125ml or more d-Limonene or Xyleneone Container, 1000ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve)one or more hopsticks or wooden spoon (to stir the gooey bark)Some Seal-able and shakable container, 500ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic or glass) or a Separatory funnelone Turkey baster (HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve)one Stove or Kettleone Pot or Pan

Useful toolsone or more Funnelsone Rice cooker

one Baking pan/large surface area containerone or more razor blades/scrapersone blender (unless you buy, pre-powdered bark)

Tincture toolsone or more Medicine droppers. 5ml and/or 1mlone or more Tincture bottles (1,2,4 or 8 dram) or very small airtight containers (10-20ml)one or more Sauce cups/shot glassesone spoonone lighter/candle/heat source

Preparation:

Step 0: If your MHRB isn't powdered, use a blender to cut it into powder/fibers as small as possible

Note:Household blenders tend to blend bark to fibres rather than powders bark so the the consistency may be different than the descriptions in the tek.

Step 1: Prepare your supplies

Chopsticks/Spoon: Chopsticks work best for 100g or less MHRB while a spoon works better for more than 100g.

Your container, it can be a glass or HDPE2 sealed container for shaking/rolling to mix or on open container for stirring. (The fact that the sealed container works is recently discovered so the tek may say stir when someone using a sealed container

would shake/roll)

Have nearby: vinegar, hot/boiling water, lime.

Lastly have everything else needed for the tek available and have the tek open an a computer for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts #1, #2, #3) HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but but glass would be the safest choice.

Acidification:

This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary

Note 1:this step does not need to be too "exact"

Step 1: Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 30g-50g is recommended)

Step 2: Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

Step 3: Then slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other. The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes, add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (It will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB)

Step 4: Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes. (Longer won't hurt though) YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY

Note 2: If you were to choose not the acidification step, thus doing a STB lime tek, it would work... but would take periodic stirring over a minimum of 2 days before a significant yield will be achieve and several days more for the rest

The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the tek to be utilized.

Basification:

This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary

MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!

Step 1: Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB) (More lime will not hurt.)

Adding it bit-by-bit and mixing will be easier to mix, but you can dump it all in if you want. (For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g)

Step 2: Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure-white lime is mix and there is no more red. Add very small amounts of water if needed to achieve a moist and consistent mixture.

Note 1: The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing that is fine. It is completely normal.

Step 3: Create the right consistency.

The ideal consistency is not super exact. There are 2 main options for consistency. Consistency 1 will work 100% as well as Consistency 2, it may absorb more solvent thanConsistency 2.

There will be inevitable solvent loss regardless but my estimate is anywhere from 25%-40% reduction in solvent loss using Consistency 2 which in a 100g MHRB extraction might be 50-80ml less solvent lost. If solvent supplies are plentiful then there should be no problem using Consistency 1 or Consistency 2, remember that they can be RE-USED many times.

Consistency 1: Add water (if needed) to make the mix look like anywhere from thick oatmeal too kinda like thick pea-soup. Both will work fine. If it is like tomato soup that's too soupy!

Step 3a: if it is too dry add some tap water a TINY TINY splash at a time, stir well and repeat adding and stirring until it is JUST moistened throughout

Step 3b: if it is too wet add more lime a little bit at a time, stir well and repeat adding and stirring until it thickens and dries to the right consistency

Consistency 2: Either let the mix dry until crumbly (Like the top of an apple crisp) or dry it in the oven (in an oven-safe

container!) at 95C or the lowest setting until crumbly. You don't want it bone-dry because it will absorb more solvent than Consistency 1, if it does get bone-dry then just add some water to make it crumbly.

Non-polar Wash:

Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step is used a non-polar solvent to dissolve the Jimjam DMT from the basified bark, this separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted

Note 1: The tek is designed to do each step directly after another without any waiting periods except those that are steps.

The first pull if done immediately after getting the lime-bark to one of the consistencies shouldould yield anywhere from 10%-35% (in my experience.) If the first pull is done after 6-8 hours

however it will likely yield 25%-60%.2 pulls done around 24 hours and 48 hours (or later) should be enough to get 80%-90% of the DMT (In my experience). Pulls after that tend to be rather small but I highly recommends doing pulls at 1 week and another at 2 or 3 weeks to get all the DMT possible.

Step 1: Add at least 1.5-2ml d-limonene or xylene for every gram of MHRB. (75-100ml for 50g) This can be done immediately following the addition of the lime or anywhere up to several days later.

Note 2: Bark will slowly absorb a noticeable portion of the solvent, this is common.

Step 2: Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mush as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

Mix it well several times over 10-20 minutes. That is all that is needed to dissolve the DMT-freebase in to the solvent. YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY

I like to think of using the non-polar solvent like using water to dissolve some salt. Though the salt will not instantaneously become saturated with salt, it will in a few minutes. Same with the solvent, it is the bark and lime that works for hours, not the solvent.

Step 3: Pour the solvent from the bark into your seal-able and shakable container through a funnel with a cotton ball (to filter bark particles which cause emulsions) You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent. Pouring usually gets 90% or more.

Step 4: Wait until you are done the removing the DMT from the solvent then re-use

Acid wash/Salting:

This step uses vinegar (acetic acid) to convert the DMT-

freebase in the solvent to DMT-acetate which are water soluble, but not soluble in d-limonene or xylene. It is called "salting" and is basically just getting the DMT out of the solvent.

Step 1: Pour some vinegar into the container with the solvent. About 1 shot-glass full.

Step 2: Seal the container and agitate it a bunch. I prefers to use the turning-the-doorknob method to agitate as shaking sometimes causes leakage. There is sometimes a small bubbly layer of emulsion that take a long time to resolve.

Agitate it and the top layer, the solvent, will start to cloud with DMT-acetate floating around. over a period of at least 2 minutes, for the process to complete. Don't leave it for over 10 minutes because after a while oils and gunk can migrate to the vinegar/water

Step 3: Use a turkey baster to suck out the vinegar (bottom layer) and transfer it to a separate clean container.If you don't get all the vinegar don't worry.

Step 4:Next add a shot or two of hot tap water to the solvent, and agitate it for about a minute.

Step 5: Use a turkey baster again to suck out the water and combine it with the vinegar.

Step 6: Put the vinegar and water into a small stainless steel pan and evaporate it down on a low temperature.

4.1g of DMT-Acetate yeilded from an extraction of 50g MHRB

Making Dry Acetone:

Step 1: The Epsom Salts first need to be dried in an oven to remove all the water. There's a tech for that...I don't recall off hand how to do it, but it's easy.

Once you have dried Epsom Salts, then you add some. If it looks thick and not powdery after adding it, then you need to add more. The newly added Epsom Salts should look dry and like powdered chalk. I wish I had pictures of it to show you. Wet Epsom Salts look different than dry ones. The dry ones look like chalk. If you keep adding more and it remains looking

like chalk, then you added enough. But if it immediately gets lumpy and looks sort of soggy and sinks really fast to the bottom, then you need to add more.

Step 2: The dried stuff looks powdery after adding it to the acetone and sort of floats around like dust when you shake it. The wet stuff doesn't float around and barely moves when you shake it.

Step 3: SWIM powderizes the anhydrous magnesium sulfate (epsom salts) to ensure maximum surface area exposure and to maximize the potential for the particles to collide with water molecules, and if he doesn't allow time to settle (and essentially crystallize, forming a crystal lattice that encorporates H2O), he will pour out contaminated acetone (contaminated with water or particles of magnesium sulfate).

(https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4571)

Acetates Conversion:To achieve a smokable product, you must convert your acetates to freebase.

Step 1: Add excess sodium carbonate to your dmt acetate goo. Add a bit of water to make a paste and mix well. Then dry the paste. Mash the chunks as it dries to make the process faster.

Step 2: Powderize the final product, put in a glass container and add IPA or acetone (both will work equally fine). Make sure your acetone or IPA are dry (99%+), otherwise they will pull sodium carbonate/sodium acetate along with the DMT.

Mix well, let the powder settle and decant/pippete out the IPA or acetone, into a new container. Do this 3 or 4x.

Step 3: Evaporating this will yield you dmt freebase, but it is very possible that it wont crystalize and will remain as a goo.

Optional: Instead of evaporating by itself, you can evaporate it in a container with some herbs to make 'enhanced leaf' or changa. The ideal ratio of herbs:dmt is around 1:1. But since you dont know how much there is because you havent weighed the goo, you can make an estimate. If you put all the pulls from your mimosa extraction together, made it all into acetates and converted, then calculate around 1% of mimosa weight in DMT, and add this in herbs to your evaporating dmt-ladden IPA or acetone.

https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/index.phptitle=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek

https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B#Step_6-Acetates_conversion

https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=52865