puzzle blanket

8/22/2019 Puzzle Blanket

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Puzzle Baby Blanketby Paula Levy

I love knitting and I love puzzles, so why not combine the two?! Each puzzle piece is knit to shape, back and

forth, with an invisible garter stitch seam. The pieces are joined to their neighbors with a modied running

stitch. This type of seam produces almost no bulk and is unobtrusive, an important consideration when

working with different colors. The border is two rounds of crochet slip stitch which gives the Puzzle Baby

Blanket a nice rounded edge.

stixyarn.com/tangled

craft: knitting

difficulty: intermediate

sizes: one size

MeasureMeNts: approx 40 x 40


2/102

Materials:

yarn Scarlet Fleece Painted Merino

(100% Washable Merino wool;

230 yd [210 m]/3.2 oz [90

gm]; CYCA 3): Kiwi (MC), 5

skeins, Popsicle (A), 4 skeins.

needles Two or three 24 or longer

circular US size 4 (3.5 mm)

needles to use for knitting

and st holders; 2 US size 4

(3.5 mm) short dpns.

hook Size D-3 (3.35 mm) crochet

hook for slip stitch edging

(see Notes)

Adjust needle size to obtaincorrect gauge.

notions Waste yarn; crochet hook

suitable for crocheting

loose chain in waste yarn;

removable stitch markers;

tapestry needle; blocking

surface; rust-proof pins;

gauge:23 sts and 50 rows = 4 in Garter stitch on Size

4 needles before blocking.

To check gauge: Cast on 30 sts. Work in Garter

Stitch for approximately 6. Block swatch

and measure. Gauge can be expected to change

in the blocking process.

stitcH guide:

ch p h ( ):Insert hook into designated space. Yarn over

and draw new loop through space and then

through loop on hook.

stitch guide continued on next page --->

iNstructioNs:

P P

SHAPES A (make 4) & B (make 8)

With MC, provisionally CO 14 sts.

Row 1 and all

odd rows

through 35 (WS) K all sts.

Row 2 K1, (K1, yo, k1, yo, k1) 4 times, k1

- 22 sts.


- 30 sts.


- 38 sts.


- 46 sts.


- 54 sts.


- 62 sts.


- 70 sts.


- 78 sts.


- 86 sts.

Row 20 K1, (K10, yo, k1, yo, k10) 4 times,k1 - 94 sts.

Row 22 K1, (K11, yo, k1, yo, k11) 4 times,

k1 - 102 sts.


k1 - 110 sts.


3/103

P P (nn)

SHAPES A & B (continued)


k1 - 118 sts.


k1 - 126 sts.


k1 - 134 sts.


k1 - 142 sts.


k1 - 150 sts.


k1 - 158 sts.

Row 37 BO1, k across row. Slip the last 2 sts

back to LN, pass the left st over the

right st to bind off, and return the

rem st to RN - 156 sts on needle.

Do not cut yarn.

With RS facing, bring the side edges of the piecetogether and sew seam as follows:

start at the center (where you cast on), leaving a

tail of about 6. Weave back and forth between the

running threads on the right-hand side of the seam

and the purl heads on the left-hand side. (See Fig. 2)

At the top of the seam, go under the loop below the

live st and on the right-hand side, go under the BO

st. Secure yarn. At the center, move the cast-on loops

to 2 or 3 dpns. (Note: there should be 13 loops, butoccasionally a 14th one appears. Treat it like all the

other loops). Remove waste yarn. With RS facing,

thread the tails from the seam and the beginning

of the CO into a tapestry needle. Thread carefully

through all the cast-on loops, removing them from the

dpns. Pull tight and secure tails.

stitcH guide (continued):

rh n (rli):

Put right needle under the purl head below the

next st on LN pointing away from you. Wrap RN

as if to knit, and draw the new st through. (This

maneuver does not require the left needle.)

See Fig. 1.

l n (lli):

Put left needle under the purl head below the

last st on RN pointing away from you. Insert

RN in the same direction as well. K1 from this

position. See Fig. 1.

Pvn co:

With larger crochet hook and waste yarn, make

a loose chain of a few more sts than the pattern

calls for. Turn the chain over; you will see aseries of bumps. With the main knitting needle,

pick up the required number of sts, each in its

own chain. (The extra chains are in case any are

hard to nd.)

Notes:

The charm and challenge of hand-painted

yarn is the color variations, even in skeins from

the same dye lot. To blend the colors in a large

piece, you would alternate two or more skeinsevery two rows. In a project like this one, you

can also color block by assigning different

skeins to different shapes. In either case, it is

worth your while to un-coil all skeins to see how

they vary.

Each garter stitch rib is composed of the

stitches in one row (shown in darker gray in the

diagrams) and the running threads of the next

row (shown in paler gray). Understanding this is

helpful for doing this project.

There are a lot of tails to weave in this project.

I suggest taking care of them as you go along.

The exception is the lengths used to seam

pieces together; these will be used to reinforce

the areas where four corners meet.

notes continued on next page --->


4/104

lb

Move 2 sts from each side of seam onto dpn. Use a

second dpn for knitting, using the main needle to

hold the rem sts. With RS facing, join yarn.

Rows 1 - 5 K4.

Row 6 K1, RLI, k2, LLI, k1 - 6 sts.

Row 7 K6.


Row 9 K8.


Rows 11 13 K10.

Row 14 K1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1 - 8 sts.

Row 15 K1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1 - 6 sts.

Row 16 K1, ssk, k2tog, k1 - 4 sts.

Cut yarn and place 4 sts on small holder.

*With RS facing, slip 35 sts from LN to RN. Join yarn.Work another lobe over next 4 sts. When lobe is

complete, cut yarn, and place 4 sts on holder.*

FOR PIECE A ONLY

Work from * to * 3 times. On last repeat, do not cut

yarn or move nal 4 sts to holder.

FOR PIECE B ONLY

Work from * to * 2 times. On last repeat, do not cut

yarn or move nal 4 sts to holder.

Notes (continued):

The increase lines (yo, k1, yo) are quite evident

after the rst few rows, so I usually did not

mark them. Mark them if you wish, of course.

I do recommend placing a removable marker

through a stitch on the RS; confusing the sides

is asking for mistakes.

Corner increases are continued onto the BO

row. Yarn over at the appropriate location, then

pass the previous st over the yarn over. It is now

a regular st, and you can continue with the BO.

To have BO sts all around the piece, I treat the

purl heads on the sides of the indentations and

lobes as if they were sts (See Fig. 3). On the

indentations, the heads on either side of

the base are doubled because of the pattern

decreases.

The border is two rounds of crochet slip stitch.

The hook has to be quite small to get into the

spaces, but you also do not want the rounds to

be too tight. Draw the loop through the space

and enlarge it a bit before drawing through the

loop on the hook.


5/105

FOR A & B

[BO sts at top of lobe. Pick up and place 9 loops

from left-hand side of lobe onto dpn (See Fig. 3)

and BO as if they were sts. BO in knit to next lobe,

working yo, k1, yo at the corner. With dpn, pick up

and place 9 loops from right-hand side of lobe onto

a dpn, BO as if they were sts] 4 times for Shape A

and 3 times for shape B. Cut yarn and secure to the

rst stitch.

SHAPE C (make 5)

With CC, provisionally CO 14 sts. Work Rows 1- 19 as

for shapes A and B.

Row 20 BO 1, k9 (10 sts on RN), yo, k1,

yo, (k20, yo, k1, yo) 3 times, k11.

Slip last 2 sts back to LN, pass the

left st over the right st to bind

off, and return the rem st to RN

- 92 sts.

Row 21 K3, move these 3 sts to holder,

k2tog, *k13, SSK. K6. Put last 6

sts on holder, k2tog.* Repeat from

* to * 3 times. K13, SSK, put last 3

sts on holder.

Note: Row 21 separates the work into 4 sections of

15 sts each.

Row 22 K7, yo, k1, yo, k7. Put all other

sts on needle onto holder - 17 sts

on needle.

Rows 23 & 25 K all sts.

Row 24 K8, yo, k1, yo, k8 - 19 sts.

Row 26 K9, yo, k1, yo, k9 - 21 sts.


Row 28 K11, yo, k1, yo, k11 - 25 sts.


SHAPE C (continued)

Row 30 K13, yo, k1, yo, k13 - 29 sts.


Row 32 K15, yo, k1, yo, k15 - 33 sts.


Row 34 K16, yo, k1, yo, k16 - 35 sts.

Row 36 K1, SSK, k14, yo, k1, yo, k14,

k2tog, k1 - 35 sts on needle.

Row 37 K1, SSK, k29, k2tog, k1. Put these

33 sts on holder. Cut yarn.

For rem three sections, with RS facing, join yarn at

the beg of another section.

Work Rows 22-37 for each section. After fourth

section, do not cut yarn or move sts from needle.

Sew seam and nish center.

Reunite all sections on needle. [With RS facing,

BO to the next indentation, working yo, k1, yo at

the corner. Pick up and place 9 loops from right-hand side of indentation onto dpn and BO, BO 6 sts

from holder, pick up and place 9 sts from left-hand

side of indentation and BO.] 4 times. Cut yarn and

secure to rst stitch.

SHAPE D (make 4)

With CC, provisionally CO 14 sts. Work Rows 1- 19 a

for shapes A and B.

Row 20 BO1, k9 (10 sts on RN), yo, k1,

yo, (k20, yo, k1, yo) 3 times, k11

Slip the last 2 sts back to the left

needle, pass the left st over the

right st to bind off, and return

the rem st to the right needle

- 92 sts.


6/106

SHAPE D (continued)

Row 21 K3, slip these sts to holder,

k2tog, k13, SSK, k6, move 6 sts

just completed to holder, k2tog,

k36, ssk, k6, move 6 sts just

completed to holder, k2tog, k13,

SSK, move rem 3 sts to holder.

This row divides the work into 3

sections, 2 with 15 sts and 1 with

38 sts.

Work Rows 22 - 37 as for Shape C. Cut yarn and

move these sts to holder.

Put 15 sts from other short section onto needle and

work as for previous section.

For the last section, put 38 sts from long center

section on the needle. With RS facing, join yarn.

Row 22 K7, yo, k1, yo, k22, yo, k1, yo, k7

- 42 sts.

Row 23 & 25 K all sts.


- 46 sts.


- 50 sts.


Row 28 K11, yo, k1, yo, k28, yo, k1, yo,

k11 - 56 sts.



k13 - 62 sts.



k15 - 68 sts.


SHAPE D (continued)


k16 - 72 sts.

Row 36 K1, SSK, k14, yo, k1, yo, k36, yo,

k1, yo, k14, k2tog, k1 - 74 sts.

Row 37 K1, SSK, k68, k2tog, k1 - 72 sts.

Do not cut yarn.

Sew seam and nish center.

Reunite 138 sts on main needle. With RS facing, BO

as for Shape C, but, of course, there is a long edge

and only 3 indentations. Cut yarn and secure to the

rst stitch.

Shape E (make 4)

With CC, provisionally CO 14 sts. Work Rows 1 - 19

as for shapes A and B.

Row 20 BO1, K9, yo, k1, yo, (k20, yo, k1,

yo )3 times, k11. Slip the last 2

sts back to the left needle, pass

the left st over the right st to

bind off, and return the rem st

to the right needle - 92 sts onneedle.

Row 21 K3, move these 3 sts to a holder,

k2tog, k13, SSK. K6, put last 6 sts

worked on holder, k2tog. Knit all

sts until 5 rem, SSK, put last 3 sts

on holder. This row divides the

shape into 2 sections, 1 with 15

sts and 1 with 67 sts.

Row 22 K7 , (yo, k1, yo, k22 )2 times, yo,

k1, yo, k7. Put rem 15 sts on a

holder - 67 sts rem on needle.


Row 24 K8, (yo, k1, yo, k24) 2 times, yo,

k1, yo, k8 - 73 sts.


7/107

SHAPE E (continued)


k1, yo, k9 - 79 sts.



k1, yo, k11 - 87 sts.



k1, yo, k1 - 95 sts.


Row 32 K15, (yo, k1,yo, k32) 2 times, yo,

k1, yo, k15 - 103 sts.

Row 33 K all sts.


k1, yo, k16 - 109 sts.

Row 35 K all sts.

Row 36 K1, SSK, k14, (yo, k1, yo, k36) 2

times, yo, k1, yo, k14, k2tog, k1- 113 sts.

Row 37 K1, SSK, k107, k2tog, k1. Put

these sts on a holder - 111 sts.

Cut yarn.

Put 15-st section back on needle. With RS facing,

join yarn.

Work Rows 22 - 37 as for Shape C.

Do not cut yarn or transfer sts.

With right side facing, sew seam and nish center.

Secure yarn. Reunite 144 sts on needle. With RS

facing, BO as for Shape C, but, of course, there is

one long edge and only 2 indentations. Cut yarn and

secure to the rst stitch.

Bkn

Wet all pieces thoroughly. Pin out to 8 square.

Do not be too concerned with the lobes and

indentations; they will adjust to each other. Allow

to air dry.

Jnn P

The pieces are rst joined into rows of 5 after

which the rows are joined together. A modied

running stitch and MC are used throughout (See

Schematic for placement).

Aligning the pieces is more art than science. Edges

should be straight, corners should meet, and the

lobes should sit properly in the indentations.

Referring to Fig 4, hold 2 pieces with WS tog. Insert

needle front to back under one of the BO chain

on the forward piece. Bring it across and go under

corresponding chain of back piece. Move over one

chain, bring the needle forward under it, then

forward under the chain that was previously worked

on the forward piece. Move over one chain, bring

needle front to back under it, then under the chain

previously worked on the back piece.

On occasion, stitches will need to be eased in,

especially in the areas of the lobes andindentations. Do this by moving over one chain

without going under the chain previously worked.

To join rows work as above. When you get to a

four-corner spot, work the seaming stitch under

two chains of each piece, circling around until you

are in position to continue joining the rows. On

the underside use a yarn tail to take a few stitches

around the join to reinforce it. Darn in ends.

B

With RS facing, join MC. Crochet slip stitch under

each BO chain and slip stitch under two

strands at the seams. When round is completed, cu

yarn and secure to beginning of round. Turn

piece so that you are working in the opposite

direction from the previous round. Join MC.


8/108

B (nn)

Work slip stitch under each of the slip stitches from

the previous round. When round is completed, cut

yarn and secure to beginning of round.

fnhn

Darn in all remaining ends.

Thoroughly wet the piece and lay it out on a at

water-proof surface. Pull it to its nal dimensions,

make sure seams are straight, and pat out any

pufness around the lobes. Pin in place if necessary

and allow to dry.

Original design by P B. lv

Paula specializes in geometric and modular knitting

designs. With an eye towards the elements of

structure and knitting technique, she aims to

produce projects that excite the imagination and

are a pleasure to knit and use. She is paulabethl on

Ravelry and her e-mail is [email protected].

She blogs at Now, how am I supposed to knit ablog? (supposed-to-knit.blogspot.com).

8 20 cm

20 cm8

Make 4 Make 4

D

Make 4

EA

Make 5

C

Make 8

B

40 (100cm)

40

(100cm)


9/109

Figure 2

12

RLI

2. Wrap yarn and knit

1. Insert right needle

1. Insert LN

2. Insert RN

4. Wrap yarn and knit

LLI

3. Tilt RN

Figure 1


10/1010

It is of the utmost importance to Tangled to provide accurate and well-written patterns. All Tangled patterns have been carefully

edited for errors. If you think you may have found a mistake please contact the Stix Chix at [email protected]

This pattern is copyright 2012 by Paula B. Levy and may not be distributed in any way. Photos by Brittany Tyler.

Figure 3

2

3

1

4

5

Figure 4

puzzle blanket

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