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couple of newbie questions, sorry

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Author Topic: couple of newbie questions, sorry

nandoz

BritBike Forum

Member # 5073

posted May 31, 2006 14:26

i just purchased a 1970 commando, i think it is an interstate model. it

has the mufflers mounted horizontal. it's really hard to get parts

around here unless i mail order them, don't want to too much of that.

i'm thinking of switching it to an electronic ignition, and putting the

battery setup back in. anyone have have reccomendations as far as

which ignition to run? it's only going to see street duty. i need to put

turn signals on it, and a horn, i will get alot of flak from pd if i don't.

as far as the battery goes it just seems like with these exrta electricals

it would be needed. this is my first british bike, so i'm not real familiar

with what works and doesn't.

Posts: 32 | From: midwest | Registered: May 2006 | IP: Logged |

John RGS BritBike Forum

Member # 3677

posted May 31, 2006 14:49

You need to get a manual , first thing. The Norton dealership in your

town closed many years ago, so anything you need will come in the

brown truck. If it's running now, ride it around to get aquainted with

it. Find someone locally who is also aquainted with it. Ask around at

local bike shops and the like. You need someone nearby who has

some basic knowledge of a british bike. It's nearly impossible to wire

and install battery systems over the internet. Search this site for

answers on wiring with directionals. I posted a diagram a while back.

Browse the suppliers web sites on this site. There is some tech

information there also. Join the International Norton Owners Group.

They will be more than happy to give you any information you need,

as will we. Dig in and then get to some specific questions.

--------------------

,_o

_ -\_<,

(*)/'(*)

NOPGS #2

Posts: 2414 | From: new jersey usa | Registered: Jul 2005 | IP: Logged |

of 15BritBike Forum: couple of newbie questions, sorry

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nandoz

BritBike Forum Member # 5073

posted May 31, 2006 16:26

it does not run currently, i have redone the carbs. amals are really

simple compared to all of the jap stuff i've done. i cleaned the tank

out, and the rest of the bike for that matter. it seems really hard to

kick over. and to be quite honest i'm not very good with points. i was

thinking about electronic ignition becuase i can actually work on that.

--------------------

i suck


kommando BritBike Forum

Member # 3091

posted May 31, 2006 17:11

You are best getting to run with the points first, one of the tricks of

this game is to only change one item at a time. This allows you to

keep on top of what you are doing, what works and what doesn't. As

soon as it runs well on points you can install electronic ignition

knowing if it doesn't work at first the fault lies in the elctronic ignition.

If you install electronic ignition now and the bike doesn't start would

you know where to start on fixing the problem.

Posts: 2102 | From: Scotland | Registered: Dec 2004 | IP: Logged |

John RGS BritBike Forum Member # 3677

posted May 31, 2006 17:52

Have you drained the crankcase? If it's been sitting , hopefuly all the

oil is sitting in the sump. This will make it a bear to kick over. Like

kammando says, fire it up with points first. Adding a Boyer into the

mix now will only confuse the issue. Asian motor bike experience or

not. Points are not a big deal whatsoever.

--------------------

,_o

_ -\_<,

(*)/'(*)

NOPGS #2

Posts: 2414 | From: new jersey usa | Registered: Jul 2005 | IP: Logged |

nandoz


posted June 01, 2006 10:11

good points gentlemen, thanks for the advice. it's entirely possible

that my adversion to point comes from my asain bike fixing. i had a

really bad time with a 75 cb360. the point design was bad, according

to everyone i talked to...after i had spent two months trying to sort it

out. can anyone recommend a spark plug to use? for some reason

napa keeps sending me the wrong ones, the old ones are champion n-

7y. i guess that number doesn't cross well in their system.


Brithit BritBike Forum Member # 2119

posted June 01, 2006 10:40

A good plug to use in a Commando is an Autolite AP63. It is a

platinum plug, and very resistant to fouling. Seems to be a fairly

common number. Even Walmart sells them - at least the Walmarts

that carry plugs. There is also the APP63, which is the same type of

plug, but is more expensive. I think it has more platinum on it than

just the electrode. Any advice on plugs is like "what brand of oil is

best", but these have served me well, and I read the tip in the Norton



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News from Carl Hokanson, a very well known builder of Norton race

bikes. I did use Bosch platinums, but they are a little harder to find

locally. The fouling resistance is a big plus. A lot of people will tell you

that if your plugs are fouling, it has to be a too rich condition, or weak

ignition, but sometimes you just are idling a little longer than you like,

or not keeping the rpm up where it should be, or whatever. Not a big

deal, but I think you'll find the platinum plugs keep firing much better

if they do happen to foul. If you pull one out of a Brit bike, and it

looks a little sooty, it's not the end of the world, and you don't need to

immediately embark on a major carb readjustment & re-jet or new

coils. Just take it slow.

[ June 01, 2006, 11:44: Message edited by: Brithit ]

--------------------

Don W.

'69 Trident - U.S. Variant

Nortons: '72 Combat ' 75 Interstate

'59 Velocette Venom Clubman

Posts: 210 | From: Nebraska, jealous? | Registered: Jul 2003 | IP:

Logged |

Richrd

Moderator Member # 459

posted June 01, 2006 19:02

first ? is where are you.

Brithit and I are also in the "midwest". I would hate to spend a lot of

time trying to tell you something on line then find out that we are

close enough to show you instead.

There is also a good dealer in Iowa that has everything you need for a

Norton.

Rich

Posts: 1508 | From: Springfield Nebraska | Registered: Aug 2001 | IP:

Logged |

Clipper Unregistered

posted June 02, 2006 09:14

FWIW, A the interstate model commando didn't debute until '72. All

the earliest commandos had horizontal mounted pipes with Atlas style

mufflers (which sound better than those silly peashooters anyway

IMO).

A lot of times these bikes were titled as the year they were sold from

the dealership-not necessarly the "Model Year". If you're taking the

1970 from the title you could actually have an earlier bike. The only

way to know for sure is reference the Frame/engine numbers.

Adding to everyone's offer - I'm in Minneapolis/St. Paul.

IP: Logged |

nandoz

BritBike Forum

Member # 5073

posted June 02, 2006 10:32

first off, i'm located in iowa city. although i live in minneapolis a

couple of years ago. i assume the dealer Richrd is talking about is

baxter cycle? i'm pretty sure it's a '70, #137166, the engine says

20m3s/137166. it has an interstate style tank on it. i would post pics



but i have no image hosting. here's a link to a pic of the same style

tank.

i can't seem to find a frame # anywhere, and the vin plate on the

head tube is dammaged from a fairing bracket. does anyone know

what made different commando models different? was it just the tank,

exhuast, and seat?

http://www.motoclassiche.it/images/personal/Serb.Nort-1.JPG



posted June 02, 2006 11:00

yup - 137166 would be a 70. On my '68 the frame number was

stamped on the inside-left corner (nearest to the tank) of the

headstock in addition to the VIN plate.

Another way to help identify the approximate age of the frame is to

look at how the centerstand mounts. A stock '70 frame would have

the centerstand mounted to a cross-member of the frame. A later

"Interstate" frame would have the centerstand attached to the

gearbox/engine plates.

There were a variety of different side panels as well. Does it have a

central oil tank with covers on each side? or is one side the actual

tank?

IP: Logged |

nandoz


posted June 02, 2006 11:03

it has the center tank. unfortunately both side covers are missing. i'd

like to replace them but i'm not sure wich ones to get.

--------------------

i suck


nandoz


posted June 02, 2006 11:05

oh yeah and the center stand has a cross member between the frame

rails.

--------------------

i suck



posted June 02, 2006 14:15

Well, it sounds like what you have is probably a roadster converted to

an interstate. The frame changed in 71 to the later mounted

centerstand so it sounds like a '70 frame. The central oil tank with two

side covers didn't come out till 71 so I'm betting wanted an Intersate

and decided to do a complete conversion. Granted - A lot of things can

happen to a motorcycle in 36 years so it's not particularly surprising.

You should be able to mount any type of side covers to it. For new

ones you'll spend 50+ a piece. They entirely cosmetic so you dont

NEED them but they do make a nice place to stash some tools.

Sounds like a fun project anyway! Welcome to the wonderful world of



wet-sumping Nortons!

IP: Logged |

nandoz


posted June 02, 2006 14:43

they definitely are not the first item on the list, but something i'd like

to get figured out. speaking of the wet-sumping issue, anyone tried

the inline check valves?

--------------------

i suck


nandoz

BritBike Forum

Member # 5073

posted June 07, 2006 13:56

i got the commando to burp a couple of time this morning. i drained

the crankcase, which made it tons easier to kick over. i replaced the

plugs and wires, poured in some gas and gave it a kick. it blinks the

timimg light on the second kick, and i can hear it igniting. trouble is it

won't catch and really run. if i grab the throttle it burps out of the

carbs a little and dies. i've been playing with the ticklers on the carbs,

and i can get it to fire a little. i cleaned the points with emery cloth,

but i didn't adjust them. i feel like it's right on the verge of running,

but i've kicked it so many times i can't put weight on my right leg.

where to go from here?

--------------------

i suck


williewhyte BritBike Forum Member # 5068

posted June 08, 2006 11:28

Nandoes, you DON'T suck! Points are not hard to do. I've run my

fastback on STATIC timing (no timing lite involved ) for years with

first kick (hot or cold ) results. If I get too basic with this help I

apologise, just trying to assist. THE ONLY PROBLEM can be in using

wrong screws for adjustment. Take time to locate the holddown screw

for points gap and the other ones that are used to rotate small plate

to adjust individual points timing. Take out both plugs & inlet valve

cover, shift bike to 4th gear. Check points gap first (.015) on both

sets using reference mark on points cam. Use small screwdriver in

plug hole to find TDC. The inlet valve that has slack (like checking

gap) is the side you will be timing. Push bike BACKWARD to 28

degrees BTDC (guage under small inspection cover on primary case).

Hook a test light (about $3.00 at auto-zone)to points you're checking-

clip to bent metal strap part of points, probe in cylinder fin for ground.

Left points (looking at plate) should be on left side and have yellow

wire. Check wire to coils if needed.Turn key on. Rotate points cam to

full advance- light should just come on. If not rotate points plate till it

does. The book says to use a "special washer" on holddown bolt for

advance, but this will work.Repeat procedure for other side- if these

points need tweekin' there's screws on a smaller plate to allow this.

Hope this helps. Good luck!

Cheers, Willie

Posts: 8 | From: Ozark, Al. | Registered: May 2006 | IP: Logged |

williewhyte BritBike Forum Member # 5068

posted June 15, 2006 10:18

Yo, Nandoz! How are you and Norton getting along? On my last post I



was refering to BLACK wire with yellow TRACER. Sorry for murky

info.When I bought my Fastback it came with battery removed. I had

MUCH better success starting bike with battery installed. For charging

circuit I'd go with SPARX kit to eliminate old stock rotor that might

come loose and explode as well as replace the zener diode/capasitor

that may cause problems when you add elec. ignition. I bought a mid

70's wiring harness (wired for turn signals) so I could use wiring

diagrams in Clymer manuel. Ended up removing a lot of wires not

needed and ALMOST wished i'd just bought some wire of proper color

codes to create my own harness. Kept wire for second brake switch

(not in '68 harness) so I could rig switch to front brake lever.Lot of

work either way, but WELL worth the effort. Let me know if you're up

and running.

Cheers, Willie

Posts: 8 | From: Ozark, Al. | Registered: May 2006 | IP: Logged |

nandoz

BritBike Forum

Member # 5073

posted June 15, 2006 12:39

i got her to start two days ago, i think she just needed conviced that

someone was acually going to ride her. it's still a little hard to start,

but it seems to be geting better. yesterday i was going to ride her

around the lot at work, but tranny problems arose. i pulled he clutch

lever, it seemed to feel just fine, droped it into gear and wham!

stalled. i've also noticed that sometimes if i kick it more than four or

five times it drops into gear on it's own. there is a guy near by that

owns a couple of old vellocettes, he said it sounded like the clutch

plates rusted together? not sure where to go from here.


RF Whatley

Double Platinum

BritBiker Member # 2262

posted June 15, 2006 12:56

No Doze -

Get a manual. Read the manual.

The general starting drill for most all Brit bikes is to break the clutch

free before starting. That is, pull the clutch lever in, and kick the k/s

lever through until the lever goes down without resistance.

If you can run fresh Chevron 93-octane (or other cleaning-type fuels)

the cleaners will help clean the carbs while you ride. A very big help

on bikes that have been sitting.

--------------------

Don't hide 'em, Ride 'em !!

RF Whatley

Atlanta, GA

http://www.gabma.us/

The GABMA newsletter. What's on the back of your toilet?

Posts: 8859 | From: The sunny South | Registered: Oct 2003 | IP:

Logged |

Fisherman


posted June 15, 2006 14:16

nandoz, it's unlikely your clutch is rusted together unless water or

condensation got to the plates while it's been sitting....much more

likely, like RF said, that you need to break them loose...when it sits



Contact Us | BritBike Home

for a long time with the clutch springs pushing the plates together, the

oil gets pushed out or dried out and the fiber plates stick to the metal

ones.

Try the drill RF suggested. If that doesn't work, once you get the bike

running, roll it downhill while you drop it into 1st gear, so it doesn't

stall, then while it's rolling and running, pull the clutch and rev the

engine. If that doesn't break it loose, yer gonna have to go inside it

and see whats up.

Definitely get the manual, if you don't you aren't gonna have a very

long relationship with the old girl...

Bernie

Posts: 891 | From: Tennessee | Registered: Nov 2005 | IP: Logged |


posted June 15, 2006 14:27

I've never had or heard of a properly set-up Commando clutch

sticking. That problem is more specific to the multi-spring clutchs, not

the diaphram type.

You may want to check your adjustment & the plates/basket for wear.

If you're running the "original" clutch it's impossible for it to rust

together becuase the friction plates are made entirely of the fibre

material.

You may want to check a few things before a small problem gets

worse.

IP: Logged |

nandoz

BritBike Forum

Member # 5073

posted June 15, 2006 17:24

so far as i know the bike is original, and it sat in a shed for 13 years.

i'm pretty sure it's the original clutch. thanks for the advice.

--------------------

i suck


nandoz

BritBike Forum

Member # 5073

posted June 15, 2006 17:24

oh, and by the way it's NANDOZ.

--------------------

i suck


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