properties of the hair and scalp milady’s standard cosmetology cosmetology :

Properties of the Hair and Scalp

Milady’s Standard Cosmetology

Cosmetology:

MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY

“Any fact facing us is not as important as our attitude toward it, for that determines our success or failure. The way you think about a

fact may defeat you before you ever do anything about it. You are

overcome by the fact because you think you are.”

Norman Vincent Peale


Objectives• Name and describe the structures of

the hair root.• List and describe the three layers of the

hair shaft.• Describe the three types of side bonds

in the cortex.• List the factors that should be

considered in a hair analysis.


• Describe the process of growth.• Discuss the different types of hair loss

and their causes.• Describe the various options for hair

loss treatment.• Recognize hair and scalp disorders and

know which can be treated by cosmetologists.


Trichology• Trichology: the scientific study of hair, its

diseases, and care• Integument: system that includes hair,

skin, nails• Hair root: beneath the scalp• Hair shaft: projects above the scalp


Healthy Hair

• Proper nutrient’s are required.

• Amino acids make up hair.

• Proteins are sources of amino acis.


Structure of Hair Root• Follicle

– Distribution– Growth

• Hair bulb• Dermal papilla• Arrector pili• Sebaceous glands


Hair Shaft Structure• Cuticle• Cortex• Medulla


Chemical Composition of Hair• Keratinization: cell maturation• 90% Protein: amino acids composed of

five elements


COHNS Elements• Carbon - 51%• Oxygen - 21%• Hydrogen - 6%• Nitrogen - 17%• Sulfur - 5%


Amino Acids• Linked like pop beads• End bonds• Polypeptide chain• Helix


Side Bonds of the Cortex

• Hydrogen bonds• Salt bonds• Disulfide bonds


Hair Pigment• Melanin

– Eumelanin– Pheomelanin

• Natural haircolor• Gray hair• Hair color versus haircolor


Wave Patterns• Straight hair• Wavy hair• Extremely curly hair• Asian hair• Caucasian hair• African-American hair


Hair Analysis and Texture

• Coarse• Medium• Fine


Testing Hair Texture


Hair Density

• Low – thin hair• Medium – average thickness• High – dense or thick hair• Average: 2200 hairs per square inch

– Blonde: 140,000– Brown: 110,000– Black: 108,000– Red: 90,000


Porosity• Low porosity

• Average porosity

• High porosity


Testing for Porosity


Elasticity• Normal elasticity

• Low elasticity

• Testing for elasticity


Growth Patterns• Hair stream

• Whorl

• Cowlick


Dry Hair and Scalp• Appears dull, dry, lifeless.

• Avoid frequent shampooing.


Oily Hair and Scalp

• Clarifying shampoos help.• Well-balanced diet.• Exercise.• Regular, frequent shampooing.


Hair Types• Vellus (lanugo)

• Terminal hair


Hair Growth• Anagen

• Catagen

• Telogen


Hair Growth Myths

• Clipping, or cutting makes hair grow faster.

• Scalp massage increases growth.• Gray hair is coarser and more resistant.• Natural curl is determined by race.• Round cross-section is straight.• Oval cross-section is wavy.• Flat cross-section is curly.


Hair Loss• Natural shedding = 35 – 40 hairs per day• Abnormal loss called alopecia:

• Androgenic alopecia • Alopecia areata• Postpartum alopecia


Emotional Impact

• Less attractive• Less assertive• Less successful• Less personably likeable• Older by 5 years


Severe Hair Loss• Men

– Negative social and emotional effects; preoccupation with baldness; effort made to conceal

• Women– Devastation; causes anxiety; feeling of

helplessness and unattractiveness


Androgenetic Alopecia

• The progressive shrinking or miniaturization of terminal hair.

• Affects 40 million men in U. S.• Affects 20 million women in U. S.


Alopecia Areata

• Sudden loss in round patches.• Affects 5 million people in the U. S.• Immune system attacks hair follicles.• Begins with small, bald patches.• Occurs in males and females of all races.• Scalp shows no sign of inflammation.• No obvious signs of skin disorder.


Hair Loss Treatments• Minoxidil (topical treatment)

• Finasteride (oral treatment)


Hair Disorders• Canities• Ringed hair• Hypertrichosis• Trichoptilosis


• Trichorrhexis nodosa• Monilethrix• Fragilitas crinium


Disorders of the Scalp• Dandruff

• Pityriasis capitis simplex

• Pityriasis steatoides


Vegetable Parasites• Tinea

• Tinea capitis

• Tinea favosa


Animal Parasites• Scabies (itch mite)

• Pediculosis capitis


Staphylococci Infections• Furuncle or boil

• Carbuncle


Summary and Review• Name and describe the 5 main structures

of the hair root.• Name and describe the 3 layers of hair.• Describe the process of keratinization.


• List and describe the 3 types of side bonds, which are permanent and which are temporary, and which are strongest and why.

• What are the differences between peptide and side bonds?


• Name and describe the 2 types of melanin responsible for natural hair color.

• What 4 factors about the hair should be considered in a hair evaluation?


• Name and describe the different types of hair and their locations on the body.

• What are the 3 phases of the hair growth cycle and what occurs during each?


• What is the reason for normal daily hair loss?

• What are the most common types of abnormal hair loss?


• What are the only 2 approved hair loss treatments?

• Name the 2 main types of dandruff and state whether either can be treated in the salon.

• Which scalp and hair disorders cannot be treated in the salon?


Congratulations!

You’ve just completedone unit of study toward

program completion

properties of the hair and scalp milady’s standard cosmetology cosmetology :

Documents

hair loss treatment

scientific study of

different types of hair

scalphair shaft

sources of amino acis

nailshair root

thick hairaverage

cell maturation90