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BIG BASIC COLOR CLASS PROFESSIONAL ENGLISH PRO.COLOR SUPER SONIC

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Page 1: PRO.COLOR COURSE low - bigprofessional.it COURSE low.pdf · ROOT HAIR STRAND LENGTH HAIR STRAND END TARGET REPAIR FILLING ACTION (1) (2) ... Mixing ratio is 1 Part Color Cream to

BIG BASICCOLOR CLASS

PROFESSIONAL

ENGLISH

PRO.COLOR

SUPERSONIC

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• EU Compliance Approved• Dermatologically Tested• Clinically Verified For Ammonia Vapor Reduction• Fragrance Free• Gluten Free• SLS Free• Silicone Free• Paraben Free• Vegan Friendly• Tested Only On Humans• Sustainable• Reduces Up To 50% Color Processing Times• Pure, Clean & Simple • Lifts And Deposits Without Bond Breakage Or Damage• Pigment Rich, Deep, Long Lasting Italian Color• Technological Innovation For Safer Chemical Applications • Economic And Ecological... • Professional Sizes Reducing Over 75% Packaging Bulk Waste• Reduces Over 80% Inventory Acquisition And Management

NON-PROGRESSIVE HAIR COLOR THAT PROCESSES IN HALF THE TIME. Grey Coverage In As Fast As 10 Minutes.(Without Chemical Accelerators)

NH3 CONTROLAMMONIA ENCAPSULATION TECHNOLOGY. Reduces Ammonia Inhalation & Irritation By Up-to 90%.

POLY-FORCE BOND SCIENCE (BOND-REDUCTION) PROCESS TECHNOLOGYLifts And Deposits Without Chemical Bond Breakage Or Damage.

LOGICAL & ECOLOGICALPROFESSIONAL SIZE 200ML 6.76 FL.OZFOR PROFESSIONAL USE ONLY.Reduces Bulk Packaging Waste By More Than 75%.

Regenerates Cuticles, Seals Color, Reduces Static & Frizz, Repairs Damage, Prevents Split Ends, Moisturizes & Emulsifies, Strengthens, Adds Luster, Silky Softness, Keeps Hair Elastic, dons UV & Environmental Protection

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AMMONIAVAPORREDUCTIONAMMONIAENCAPSULATIONTECHNOLOGY

NH3 CONTROLAMMONIAVAPORREDUCTION

• BioKinetic Manufacturing Technology “NH3 CONTROL” reduces up to 90% ammonia vapor inhalation and irritation during oxidation processing. • The coloring cream is electromagnetically charged with positive protons to form Micelle. • Prior to mixing, the pH7.9, fragrance free, ammonia coloring cream has an slight ammonia odor but is not generating vapors. • BIG OXY BUTTER has an acid pH, depending on the Volume (%) ranges from. pH3.0 to pH6.0.• Mixing the developer together with the coloring cream initiates the oxidation process, activating the ammonia molecules. • The Micelle react to the activated ammonia, electromagnetically locking the ammonia and it’s vapors into the color emulsion.

MICELLAR STRUCTURESAMMONIA OXIDATION CAPTURE

=ACTIVATED AMMONIA NH3 CONTROL AMMONIA

ENCAPSULATIONELECTROMAGNETIC

LIPID MICELLE

BIG PROFESSIONAL SUPER SONIC COLOR The NH3 Control Technology encapsulates, concentra-tes, enhancing the performance of the Ammonia whilst regulating the entire oxidation process resulting in maximum performance significantly reducing to a minimum vapor inhalation & irritation. Therefore we have the lowest chemical percentages:

LOWEST AMMONIA of the Highest QualityFormulated with the F.C.C. Pharmaceutical grade pure ammonia that is gentle and non-drying to the hair and skin. Ammonia Concentration: Standard Shades less than 1.0%, High-Lift shades less than 1.2%

Minimum PPDPPD maximum of 2.0% in levels 8, 9, 10 and 11, a maximum of 3.5% in levels 1-7, ultra-refined 99.9% PURE pigment.(EU Regulation limits: 6%, U.S. FDA limits: 10%) (There is no existing codification regarding quality and purity verification on ingredient lists)

REDUCED RESORCINOL Resorcinol percentages are less than 0.5 in levels 8, 9, 10 and 11, a maximum concentration of 1.5% in levels 1-7. * The percentages listed are the concentrations within the coloring cream before dilution with developer.

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BOND MANAGEMENT & ENHANCEMENT

POLY-FORCEBOND SCIENCE

• The BIG SUPER-SONIC PRO.COLOR formulation protects the ionic, hydrogen & disulfide bonds during color processing.

• Constrics the bonds to create void facilitating pigment penetration, oxidation and melanin lift.

• Bond building polymer molecules formed by Glucose-(Sugar)-based Esters sustain bond construction, leaving hair strong and integral.POLY-FORCE BOND SCIENCE assists with anchoring & locking the ultra-refined

99.5% PURE pigment blends to the amino peptide keratin structures.

• Desert Date Nut Oil• Olive Oil• Avocado Oil• Cacao Extract• Pomegranate Extract• Bamboo Protein & Amino Acids• Sicilian Citrus Blend Vitamins A, B, C, E and K, • Omega 3, 6, 7, and 9 fatty acids

TARGET FILLS & REPAIRSCOLOR CREAM BASE

ESSENTIAL OILS & BOTANIC EXTRACTS SYNERGY APPLIED:

F-SIMS IMAGES OF HAIR COLORED WITH A-BkC Complex (1) COMPAIRED TO HAIR COLORED WITH CLASSIC CREAM COLOR (2)

F-SIMS IMAGES OF DIFFERENT REGIONS OF THE HAIR FIBRE AFTER

HAIR STRANDROOT

HAIR STRANDLENGTH

HAIR STRANDEND

TARGET REPAIRFILLING ACTION

(2)(1)

• Recreates Cuticles & Seals Color • Smoothes Static & Frizz • Repairs Damage • Prevents Split Ends • Moisturizes & Emulsifies Dry Hair • Strengthens Fragile Hair • Adds Luster, Softness & Silky Finish • Improves Detangling & Manageability • Keeps Hair Youthful & Elastic • UV & Environmental Protection

BENEFITS

• EU Compliance Approved• Dermatologically Tested• Clinically Verified For Ammonia Vapor Reduction• Fragrance Free• Gluten Free• SLS Free• Silicone Free• Paraben Free• Vegan Friendly• Tested Only On Humans• Sustainable• Reduces Up To 50% Color Processing Times• Pure, Clean & Simple • Lifts And Deposits Without Bond Breakage Or Damage• Pigment Rich, Deep, Long Lasting Italian Color• Technological Innovation For Safer Chemical Applications • Economic And Ecological... • Professional Sizes Reducing Over 75% Packaging Bulk Waste• Reduces Over 80% Inventory Acquisition And Management

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NATURAL MULTIDIMENSIONALNON-BANDING

TRANSLUCENT COLOR

BIG SUPER-SONIC PRO.COLOR pigment calibrations and technologies mimic the look of natural hair color. The final effect is natural multi-chromatic, translucent color as if created by nature, leaving hair integral, shiny and elastic while reducing to a minimum the lines of color demarcation for softer looking grow-outs.

3 VOL. (1 %)10 VOL. (3 %)

20 VOL. (6 %)30 VOL. (9 %)

40 VOL. (12 %)

COVERS GRAY HAIR, COLOR DEPOSIT AND TONE-ON-TONE IDEAL FOR DARKER SHADES STAINS GRAY HAIR, DEPOSITS SUPERFICIAL PIGMENTATION, DELUTES OTHER VOLUMES

COVERS GRAY HAIR AND LIGHTENS 1-2 LEVELS COVERS GRAY HAIR AND LIGHTENS 2-3 LEVELSCOVERS GRAY HAIR AND LIGHTENS 3-4 LEVELS

BIG OXY BUTTER OXIDIZING EMULSION CHOICE:

OXYBUTTER 40 VOL

12%H20230 VOL9%H202

20 VOL6%H202

10 VOL3%H202

3 V O L1 % H 2 0 2A C T I V AT O R

Statistics may vary depending on the hair:* Texture * Density * Porosity

A-BkC Complex to fight anti-radicals and impart reconstructive conditioning and strengthening action to the cortex of the hair while also forming a protective natural shielding film on the surface of the hair to smoothen and soothe the cuticle.BioKinetic Emissions Control Technology that positively charged with molecular-protons to assist with the electromagnetic encapsulation of activated ammonia molecules and the developing vapors at the moment of oxidation.

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DEVELOPER VOLUMES versus HUE & TONE INTENSITY:The higher the peroxide volume the more lift of melanin levels, and in consequence the more development of red/orange melanin as the resulting undertone.In translucent blended color systems the end color result is a combination of the underlying pigmentation and the cosmetic pigmentation you are applying.The underlying pigmentation greatly inflences the final result.The development of red/orange pigment created by the lifting of the melanin dictates, as rule, a specific peroxide volume to be used with a specific shade/level family.

NOTE: It is recomended to work with lower developer volumes (10 - max 20 Volume) when working with Na-tural, Ash, Cool, Blue Base and Matte shades.NOTE: Working with higher volume deveopers (30 - 40 Volume) can be very useful for intensifying Warm, Golden and Red shades.

10 VOL. (3 %)

20 VOL. (6 %)

30 VOL. (9 %)

40 VOL. (12 %)

COVERS GRAY HAIR, COLOR DEPOSIT AND TONE-ON-TONE IDEAL FOR DARKER SHADES. RED MELANIN (TRICOSIDERIN) MAY DEVELOPE TO A LIMITED DEGREE DEPENDING ON ETHNIC ORIGINS.

COVERS GRAY HAIR AND LIGHTENS 1-2 LEVELSRED MELANIN (TRICOSIDERIN) DEVELOPES TO A HIGHER DEGREE DEPENDING ON ETHNIC ORIGINS. COVERS GRAY HAIR AND LIGHTENS 2-3 LEVELSRED MELANIN (TRICOSIDERIN) DEVELOPES AND CAN BECOME VERY SIGNIFICANT DEPENDING ON ETHNIC ORIGINS.COVERS GRAY HAIR AND LIGHTENS 3-4 LEVELSRED MELANIN (TRICOSIDERIN) IS DEVELOPED TO A VERY HIGH DEGREE DEPENDING ON ETHNIC ORIGINS.

LEVEL 5 NATURAL BROWN 5.0

10 Volume 20 Volume 30 Volume 40 Volume

LEVEL 5 RED BROWN 5.6

LEVEL 5.0 NATURALBROWN

10 Volume 20 Volume 30 Volume 40 Volume

LEVEL 5 GOLDEN BROWN 5.3

LEVEL 5.0 NATURALBROWN

EXAMPLE: DEVELOPER VOLUMES in relation to MELANIN WARMING FACTORS

BIG OXY BUTTER performs a 5-Phase Fusion Action during the oxidation process:1. Activates the ammonia and oxidative actives within the color cream. 2. Assists with the encapsulation of the ammonia and developing vapors at the moment of oxidation.3. Delivers the active ingredients directly to the hairs shaft where it reacts in conjunction with the ammonia to lift and diffuse the natural pigments. 4. Assists with the development, delivery and linkage of the newly forming activated color pigments deep into the cortex to the amino protein structures.5. The larger pigment groups become linked and trapped in the spaces between the hair’s desulfide bonds for extended color vibrancy and intensity.

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Formulate Like Any Other Color Brand:1. Natural Color & Level2. Target Color & Level

3. Adequate Developer Intensity4. Underlying Pigments

5. % Of Gray, If Any

11 Extra Lightening Ultra-Blondes

10 Lightest Blonde (Natural Ash 0.1)

9 Very Light Blonde (Golden/Warm shades)

9 Very Light Blonde (Natural/Ash shades)

8 Light Blonde (Golden/Warm shades)8 Light Blonde (Natural/Ash shades)7 Medium Blonde (Golden/Warm shades)7 Medium Blonde (Natural/Ash shades)6 Dark Blonde (Warm shades)6 Dark Blonde (Natural/Ash shades)5 Lightest Brown (Warm shades)5 Lightest Brown (Natural/Ash shades)4 Light Medium (Brown Bronze 4.45)4 Light Medium (Natural/Ash shades)3 Medium Dark Brown1 Darkest Black Brown

COLOR SHADE/LEVEL FAMILIESToning: 3Vol 1% - 10Vol 3%Standard 30Vol 9% - 40Vol 12%Toning: 3Vol 1% - 10Vol 3%Standard 20Vol 6%Toning: 3Vol 1% - 10Vol 3%Standard 20Vol 6% - 30Vol 9%Toning: 3Vol 1% - 10Vol 3%Standard 10Vol 3% - 20Vol 6%Standard 20Vol 6% - 30Vol 9%Standard 10Vol 3% - 20Vol 6%Standard 20Vol 6% - 30Vol 9%Standard 10Vol 3% - 20Vol 6%Standard 20Vol 6% - 30Vol 9%Standard 10Vol 3% - 20Vol 6%Standard 20Vol 9% - 30Vol 9%Standard 10Vol 3% - 20Vol 6%Standard 20Vol 9% - 30Vol 9%Standard 10Vol 3%Standard 10Vol 3%Standard 10Vol 3%

RECOMENDED DEVELOPER

11 Extra Lightening Blondes10 Lightest Blonde9 Very Light Blonde8 Light Blonde7 Medium Blonde6 Dark Blonde5 Lightest Brown (Transition Level between Dark Blonde and Light Brown)4 Light Medium Brown3 Medium Dark Brown* (to create Darkest Neutral Brown, level 2, Mix 45g 3.0 + 15g 1.10)1 Darkest Black Brown

COLOR LEVEL FAMILIES 38 Color Shades+

1 Neutral 00. Level Booster

Special Note:When Mixing to create intermediate levelsalways use 1/3 of the darker level to 2/3

of the lighter level to have a trueintermediate level.

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USE THE COLOR WHEEL AS A GUIDE TO THE LAW OF COLOR. Colors opposite each other are known as complementary or counteracting colors. To control or correct any color, simply add the complementary color. To control orange, add blue, to control yellow, add violet, and to control gold (yellow-o-range), add blue-violet. These rules are called the Law of Color.The Color Wheel shows the positioning of the BIG PRO.COLOR shade numbering system..0 - NATURALS .10 - ASH BLUE .01 - NATURAL ASH.11 - DOUBLE ASH SERIES.3 - GOLDEN SERIES.31 - NATURAL BEIGE SERIES.35 - TABACCO SERIES.45 - CHESTNUT BRONZE .53 - CHESTNUT CHOCOLATE .5 - CHESTNUT MAHOGANY .20 - NATURAL VIOLET .6 - RED SERIES.4 - COPPER.44 - INTENSIVE COPPER.2 - IRISÈ ROSÈ.13 - ASH BEIGE

COLOR TONE/HUE FAMILIES

HOW COLORS ARE CONSTRUCTED

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BIG PROFESSIONAL MIXING RATIOS1:1 Intense Pigmentation

1:1½ Standard Mixing Ratio1:2 Ultra-Light Blondes and Translucent Pigmentation

Intense Pigmentation:Mixing ratio is 1 Part Color Cream to 1 part BIG OXY BUTTER.Example: Add 50 ml Color Cream to 50 ml BIG OXY BUTTER.

Standard Multi-Dimensional Coverage: Mixing ratio is 1 Part Color Cream to 1.5 parts BIG OXY BUTTER.

Example: Add 50 ml Color Cream to 75 ml BIG OXY BUTTER. Ultra-Light Blonde Super Lighteners or Translucent Pigmentation:

Mixing Ratio is 1 part Color Cream to 2 parts BIG OXY BUTTER. Example: Add 50 ml Color Cream to 100ml BIG OXY BUTTER.

TEMPERATUREThe BIG PRO COLOR is sensitive to temperature. The ideal temperature for

standard color processing is 72 degrees Fahrenheit (23° Celsius).

AVERAGE PROCESSING TIMES0-10% GREY HAIR 10-15 MINUTES10-30% GREY HAIR 15-20 MINUTES30-50% GREY HAIR 20-25 MINUTES50-100% GREY HAIR 25-30 MINUTES

ULTRA-LIGHT 11SERIES,2-3 LEVELS OF LIFT-20-25 MINUTES

ULTRA-LIGHT 11SERIES,3-4 LEVELS OF LIFT-25-30 MINUTES

• It is recommended to always visually check and verify the intensi-ty of color deposit and lift before removing color.

• Time table based on medium hair diameter, average porosity, central European hair type.

• Ultra-Light 11 Series processing times are applied on base level seven and higher.

• Depending on the hair’s density and resistance, the minimum processing time may need to be extended by 10-15 minutes.

+

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10-15 min.

15-20 min.

20-25 min.

25-30 min.

NON-PROGRESSIVE IN LEVEL PROGRESSIVE IN HUE & TONE DENSITY & INTENSITY:

BIG PROFESSIONAL SUPER SONIC COLOR will remain true to level during longer processing times. The hair color will not become a darker level, however the hair will have a higher concentration of pigment development, creating a more intensive hue and reflection. (Example: Reds will be more intensive, gold will seem more golden and concentrated, while ash tones will go more matte.)

Time table based on medium-fine hair diameter, average porosity, central European hair type with less than 30% gray, cosmetic color level applied is the same level of original base color.

You can use BIG PROFESSIONAL SUPER SONIC COLORwith classic processing times, it is important to knowthe longer you process the more intense the color:

CLASSIC STANDARD PROCESSING TIMES

‘REDUCED TIMING’ BASIC RULE OF THUMB:

The color is applied as you would any normal oxidation hair color,generally you can cut in half your processing times compared

to your actual timing practices.

IMPORTANT: If you are using the color as an Express Servicewith a 50% reduction on average processing times,

it is very important that the client does not wash the hairwithin the 42 hours post coloration.

This will ensure superior color pigmentation longevity.

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COLOR BOOSTERS-CORRECTORSThe 7 pigmented BIG PROFESSIONAL SUPER SONIC COLOR boosters are;

These color boosters have oxidizing bases which means they can be added into all the colors to enhance or subdue the tone. Because they oxidize with the tint they become part of the host color giving high resistance to fading.The boosters can also be used alone with 10 Volume (3%) BIG OXY BUTTER Developer to create muted to intense fashion tones on bleached hair, (we recommend a test strand to deter-mine the result when doing this) and can be used to highlight darker natural hair levels, the darker the level the less visible will be the tone and reflects of the Boosters.The Booster shades can also be mixed together to create a variety of fashion colors on pre-li-ghtened hair. Try to always add a booster/intensifier to your formula for mid-lengths and ends when working with violets and reds. The hair is more porous in those areas which is why they can tend to brown out.

NOTE: It is very important to premix your color formula with the desired mixing ratios of developer before adding in the Booster/Intensifier. (Do not calculate the addition of the Intensifier in with the mixing ratio; tint to developer)

03 YYellowGialloAmarilloJauneGelb

66 R 11 ARedRossoRojoRougeRot

22 VVioletViolaVioletaVioletViolett

AshCenereCenizaCendréAsch

88 BBlueBluAzulBleu

33 GGoldOroOroOrGold

38 GGreenVerdeVerdeVertGrün

When hair is lightened in any way, the warmer tones – red and yellow – are always exposed. Blue pigment is the first to leave the hair, and at certain levels never existed at all. During the coloring process, melanin in the hair begins to split, becoming smaller in molecular size and water soluble. The dye intermediates in the color begin to oxidize, becoming larger and less water soluble, thus exposing warmth.

IDENTIFY: PIGMENTS, LEVELS & HAIR COLORS

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COLOR BOOSTERS-CORRECTORSFOR STANDARD INTENSIFICATION OR CORRECTION:1 Gram of BOOSTER/CORRECTOR for every 10 Grams of color.FOR INCREASED INTENSIFICATION OR CORRECTION: INTENSIFIER PERCENTAGES to enrichen and intensity the hue based on 90 grams total mixture; • For shade levels 1 to 4 we recommend the addition of 10 - 20 grams of intensifier depending on highlight intensity desired.• For shade levels 5 to 8 we recommend the addition of 5 - 10 grams of intensifier depending on highlight intensity desired.• For shade levels 9 to 11 we recommend the addition of 3 - 5 grams of intensifier depending on highlight intensity desired.

CLEAR BOOSTER 00The 00 Booster is a lift enhancer, pigment lightener multi use product that gives flexibility to the colorist and can be used in many ways…• Booster 00 will lighten any BIG PRO. Color shade by 1 or 2 levels without the need to increase the peroxide strength• Booster 00 will brighten and lift Reds and Coppers making them ultra-luminous and super shiny.• Booster 00 added into the color will help to even out old color banding from previous applica-tion overlapping from other brands.• Booster 00 can be used alone with 30VOL, 9% or 40VOL, 12% OXY BUTTER and will lift and brighten old tint. Booster 00 mixed with 10VOL, 3% OXY BUTTER will polish and brighten tired color giving extra shine.• Booster 00 + 40VOL, 12% OXY BUTTER on Red tint will add Copper glints and on naturally dark hair it will add Copper-Golden tone highlights.• Booster 00 can assist with color deposit on resistant hair.Quick Basic Directions: first measure the tint and add the peroxide 1 to 1, or 1 to 1 ½ mix ratio, then in another bowl measure the 00 and add peroxide 1 to 2 mix ratio. Blend the two mixes together and apply as usual.Example: for 1 shade lighter. To lift 6.20 to 7.20: 40g 6.20 + 40g 20VOL 6% OXY BUTTER (1 to 1 mix ratio).In a seperate bowl mix 10g 00 + 20g 20VOL 6% OXY BUTTER (1 to 2 mix ratio) Total mix: 50g tint (6.20 & 00) + 60g 20VOL, 6% OXY BUTTER.OBJECTIVE: You want to create a 9.6 and we only have 7.6, this time the amount of 00 added would be + 50% (and not 25%) according to the 7.6 tint quantity in grams used. (40g 7.6 to 20g 00 Booster) SOLUTION: Example: Mix: 40g 7.6 + 60g 20VOL 6% OXY BUTTER (1 to 1 ½ mix ratio) Then mix 20g 00 + 40g 20VOL 6% OXY BUTTER (1 to 2 mix ratio).Blend the two mixes together and apply as usual. To intensify the red pigmentation you can add to the final mixture BOOSTER .66 RED 1 gram to every 10 grams of the final mixture.

NOTE: When using the Natural Ash or Intensive Ash shades, the addition of Booster 00 may warm the base undertones, therefore you may need to compensate adding 3g to 5g of 11A Ash Booster to the formula.

6.20 7.20 7.6 9.6

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SPECIAL SUGGESTIONS FOR COVERING STUBBORN RESISTANT WHITE AND GRAY HAIR

We recommend beginning application by applying the coloring cream directly onto the most resistant areas first. When working to cover 35% and higher grey/white hair, it is always important to mix a percentage of a natural base tone together with the desired shade objective, this helps to guarantee longer lasting total grey coverage and a more natural looking final color.STANDARD EXAMPLE: Base Level 7, Objective color: 7.35:35% grey hair: mix 3/4 parts 7.35 with 1/4 part 7.0 at a 1:1/2 ratio with 10 VOL (3%), max 20 VOL (6%) Developer.) Minimum 10-15 minutes processing time.50% grey hair: mix 1 part 7.35 with 1 part 7.0 at a 1:1/2 ratio with 10 VOL (3%), max 20 VOL (6%) Developer.) Minimum 15-20 minu-tes processing time.75% grey hair: mix 1/3 part 7.35 with 2/3 parts 7.0 at a 1:1/2 ratio with 10 VOL (3%), max 20 VOL (6%) Developer.) Minimum 20-25 minutes processing time.100% grey hair: mix 1/4 part 7.35 with 3/4 parts 7.0 at a 1:1/2 ratio with 10 VOL (3%), max 20 VOL (6%) Developer.) Minimum 25-30 minutes processing time.NOTE:(If your client prefers dense deep color coverage similar to that of Wella, try the above mixing ratios at a 1 to1 dilution with the develo-per and not 1 ½ dilution, or by applying one tone level darker). BEST TO USE 10 VOL 3% BIG OXY BUTTER when using the Natural Ash and Double Ash series to not generate warm melanin under-tones that will beging to show through after several washings.

GRAY HAIR CAN PRODUCE UNDERTONES WHEN LIFTING & DEPOSITING COLOR:

The undertones are generated by the lifting action. The undertones combined with the color deposited is what gives the hair its final color result. The chosen color will dominate the final result when it is one-two levels darker than the lightened melanin. Gray hair will always turn yellow when lightened because of the pheomelanin (reddish-yellow) pigment that is still in the hair. The color of the lighte-ned melanin will dominate the final result if the color is the same level or lighter than the natural hair color.• All gray hair is not created equal and therefore, will not react the same to coloring, bleaching or toning.• Coarse textured gray hair will always react slower and have a longer processing time.• Finer textured gray hair will always react quicker and have a shorter processing time.NOTE: On the same head of hair, a mixture of fine, medium and coarse gray hair may be found. In some cases, these different parts of the head may need to be treated with separate timing and formulas.

NATURAL LOOKING COVERAGE OF RESISTANT HIGH% GREY HAIR

If you desire a natural looking ash or neutral color result we do not recommend using a straight double ash tint on high percentages of gray hair, even if you want an ash blonde finished result. Grayish/white hair is ash by nature; therefore, if you use a straight double ash .11 series tint on it, you will get very matte ash, metallic results.In most cases, when covering over 50% to 100% gray or salt-&-pepper hair, the desired shade will have to be mixed with either a gold base color or a neutral/natural base .0 shade in order to make up for the lack of pigment in the hair.Therefore working on 100% white (non-pigmented) hair, it is necesary to mix in the missing shades (gold/red), or both as in the natural .0 series, in order to make up for the lack of these natural piments in the white (non-pigmented) hair.To get total gray coverage on resistant white or gray hair 50% or more, you will need to use a level 8.0 natural blonde or darker. (If the hair is a fine texture, level 9 may work).* (Apply gentle heat when extra color penetration, lift and deposit is required)

Level 3 Level 5 Level 7 Level 8 Level 9 Level 10

GRAY / SALT-N-PEPPER HAIRLevels 1/2

GRAY / STEEL GREY

Level 11

WHITE / NON-PIGMENTED

Special Note for grey base pigment compensation:When mixing to cover grey to achive natural or gold shades use a percentage of .0 Natural seriesWhen mixing to achive a neutral, ash or blue shade use a percentage of the .01 Natural Ash SeriesWhen mixing to achive a warm or red shade shade use a percentage of the .35 Tobbacco Series

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VIRGIN COLOR APPLICATION:

Starting approximately 1/2 inch (2cm) off the scalp, distribute the color mixture to the mid-lengths and ends of hair. Once completed, re-prepare the color mixture and distribute it evenly on the roots. Allow color to process a minimum of 10 - 15 minutes or until desired results.Once the processing times is complete, gradually add small amounts of lukewarm water, emulsify the color cream into a rich lather, then abundantly rinse.• BIG BACKBAR POST COLOR FIX Leave-in Spray” may be used as an alternative to water to emulsify the color cream. The use of this product will neutralize the alkalinity and close the cuticle.

RETOUCHING

Evenly distribute the prepared coloring mixture onto the hair’s re-growth, allow to process a mi-nimum of 10 - 15 minutes or until desired results.At the end of the processing time, add a small amount of lukewarm water to any remaining color cream and extend the product onto the hair’s lengths and ends.Allow to process until the desired result is achieved. Gradually add small amounts of lukewarm water, emulsify the color cream into a rich lather and abundantly rinse.You may add BIG BACK BAR “Color Fix Leave-in Spray to emulsify the color before adding water to stop processing and bring down the pH level.

SPECIALIZING COLOR MIXING AND TIMING METHODSStarting with this point of reference; base level and tone (7.0 Natural Light Brown) Medium-Fine Central European hair.

Color mixing and developing is a question of mathematics, timing and mixing ratios can vary depending on desired pigment density or transparency; for a more dense, pigmentmented, in-tense, richer shade and tone (similar to Wella), extend the processing time 5 to10 minutes and concentrate the mixing ratio down to a 1 : 1 (equal parts) ratio. For soft translucent, color brightening or highlighting try a mixing ratio of 1 : 2 (one part color cream to 2 parts developer) using minimal process times according to hair type. The only limit is the colorists imagination creativity and color knowlege skills.

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SUPER LIGHTENERS HIGH LIFT BLONDES:Time tables based on medium-fine hair diameter, average porosity, central European hair type.

BASIC TIMING:

Lift 2 - 3 Levels MINIMUM 20’ - 25’ MINUTESLift 3 - 4 Levels MINIMUM 25’ - 35’ MINUTES

NOTE: (The Ultra Light Super Lighteners can lift up to 4 - 5 levels when using a gentle heat).Standard High-lift, ultra light shades require more time to lift and deposit. BIG PRO. SUPER SONIC COLOR under ‘normal warm conditions,' a good rule of thumb is to cut-in-half normal processing times. You can add an extra 5-10 minutes when a particular occasion requires extra lift and lightening. To garentee proper lift performance it is very important that the hair is warm. (Strand testing is recommended)• A gentle heat source such as Climazone can be used to speed up development time but the hair should always be allowed to cool down completely before emulsifying and rinsing.

ULTRA-LIGHT FULL HEAD VIRGIN APPLICATIONSection the hair into 4 sections and subsection vertical sections approx. 1/2 inch diameter (2 CM). Starting approx. 1 inch (3.5 CM) from the scalp apply the color to mid lengths and

ends and develop for 10/15 minutes. Apply to the roots and process for another 10/15 minutes or until desired lift and deposit is achieved. Ideal for creating toned natural looking

blondes on base level 7 and upwards.On retouching color services to refresh faded ends add water to remaining tint after regrowth application and work through the hair for 5/10 minutes. You do not mix fresh tint to do this.High lift tints are always used with 30 Volume 9% or 40 Volume 12% BIG OXY BUTTER Developers when lift and deposit is required.BIG PRO. SUPER LIGHTENERS on high percentages of grey/white porous hair can sometimes over deposit. High lift tints contain extra pigments to cancel yellow and if used with lower volumes of peroxide or on light grey/white these tones may be too intense. A strand test is recommended.Depending on DNA origins lifting results may be considerably different from one group to the next. Plus, it is important to determine if there are residues of prior cosmetic pigmentation. Recommended the use warm gentle heat to assure lift.

Blond Naturel Ultra-clair

11.0Ultra Light Natural BlondeBiondo Ultra Chia ro NaturaleRubio Ultra Claro Natural

Ultra-lichtblond Natur

11.2Ultra Light Iris é BlondeBiondo Ultra Chia ro IriséRubio Ultra Claro IriséBlond Irisé Ultra-clairUltra-lichtblond Irisé

11.13Ultra Light Beige BlondeBiondo Ultra Chiaro BeigeRubio Ultra Claro BeigeBlond Beige Ultra-clairUltra-lichtblond Beige

11.11Ultra Light Ash BlondeBiondo Ultra Chiaro CenereRubio Ultra Claro CenizaBlond Cendré Ultra-clairUltra-lichtblond Asch

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It is very important to Follow International Basic Color Application Rules:

1. A correct analysis and evaluation of the hair’s porosity and retention capabilities, as well as base level and undertone potential.2. A correct color mixture corresponding to the desired result. (Strand testing is recommended)3. A correct and consistent color application. Example: begin color application onto the most resistant areas first. Even carefully placed coverage is essential. 4. A correct pigmentation processing time, according the hair’s natural level, undertone compensation, percentage of grey, porosity and retention capabilities. (Apply gentle heat when extra lift and deposit is required)5. A correct emulsification, elimination of coloring cream by gradually dripping tepid water into the hair color emulsion while still on the hair, gently massaging the emulsion into a rich lather. (Do not immediately add lots of water to the hair color all at once). The water temperature must always be tepid never hot. Optional: Apply Color Fix Leave-in Spray pH 3.5 while massaging the color emulsion to bring down the pH level and close down the cuticle while the color is on the hair. 6. A correct single application of an acid balancing, low foaming, natural surfactant post-color shampoo, always making sure the water temperature is not too high. Optional: While you are gradually adding water and working the color emultion into a lather, you can also add BIG BACK BAR POST COLOR shampoo pH4.5 to the mixture before completely rinsing.7. Applying the correct post-color conditioners to help neutralize the pH levels, close down the cuticle, ending with a specific acid leave-in spray locking in the newly oxidized pigmentation.8. And one of the most important rules is to ask the client to please wait at least 36 - 48 hours before washing the hair after a fresh color application, using specific high-quality specific color-care bio-pH regulating products.