polyester microfiber

37
Features of Micro-fiber or (Fine- Denier Fiber) Effects of Fabrics: Soft touch Excellent Drape property Freshness Comfortable High Exhaustion of oil and others etc. *1) Shin-Gohsen is a mixture (blending) of many kinds of Micro-Fiber (Fine-denier) Polyester filament, following new touch were obtained. Peach skin touch Rayon touch (Rose pedal touch) New silky touch New woolen touch

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Page 1: Polyester Microfiber

Features of Micro-fiber or (Fine-Denier Fiber)

Effects of Fabrics: Soft touch   Excellent Drape property Freshness Comfortable High Exhaustion of oil and others etc.

*1) Shin-Gohsen is a mixture (blending) of many kinds of Micro-Fiber (Fine-denier) Polyester filament, following new touch were obtained.    Peach skin touch    Rayon touch (Rose pedal touch)    New silky touch    New woolen touch

Page 2: Polyester Microfiber

Definition of Micro-fiber (Fine denier)

Less than 1 dtex (φ10 μm): difficult to spin industrially, called ultra fine fiber or micro-fiberLess than 0.1 dtex: called ultra micro-fiberLess than 0.01 dtex: called super ultra micro-fiber

1 dtex 10 dtex0.1 dtex0.01 dtex 2 3 50.2 0.3 0.50.02 0.03 0.05

Regular FiberMicro FiberSuperMicro FiberSuper Ultra

Micro Fiber

Page 3: Polyester Microfiber

Applications of Micro-fiber

Artificial Leather(Suede, Smooth)

Artificial Fur High touch materials

Shin-GohsenSilky touch

Rose petal touchPeach skin touch

Powder touch

*1) Garments, Bug, Shoes, Cap, Sports goods,Furniture, Car seat,

Wall Cloth, Display tool,Polishing material

*5) Reduction of Fluid resistanceHydro-plane property

Non-adherent of        Sea plants and animals

FlexibilityFissionability

Aesthetic property*2) Wiping propertyFiltration property

*3) Absorption propertyWater Repellent property

*4) Application using Specific Property

High strengthHigh Smoothing

*8) Compatibility to living body

*6) Response property to Environment

Chemical reactive propertyResponse property to electricity

*7) Reinforcement propertyDisposition property

Development of Micro-Fiber

Ultra micro-fiber

(Complex fiber)

Page 4: Polyester Microfiber

*1) Application of high touch materialsGarments, bag, shoes, cap,

Glove for golf, Golf bagFurniture, Car sheet,

Wall Cloth, Display tool,Polishing material,

Video deck, Tape recorder, Piano,Water absorption roll, Mouse pad

2) Application of Wiping and filtering propertyWiping cloth, Wiper for spectacles,

Cleansing cloth, Greasy sweat cloth,Dust cloth, Mouse pad,

High performance Air filter,Filtering cloth/ Filtering materials,

Anti-dusting wear, Anti-dusting mask, Battery Separator,

Side cloth for Quilt DownHealthy underwear,

Anti-vermin bed cloth etc.

*5) Reduction of Fluid resistance: Ski and Skate wear, Jump suits, Swimming race wear

*6) Application to Response property to environmentChemical reactive propertyResponse property to electricity High speed response gel fiberHeat resistance/chemical resistance Squeezing rollArtificial muscleMicro-scissors/ tweezer (for Catheter)Morter-less drive

Page 5: Polyester Microfiber

3) Application of Absorption and Water repellent propertyWater permeable/ Water repellent Woven/ Knitted fabrics,Water permeable/ Water repellent Construction materials,

Water absorbable/ Oil absorbable materials, Water Absorbable towel, Water absorbable roller,

Stamp pad, Typing ribbon, Oil/ Water separation fabrics

4) Special usagesPolishing cloth, Sound control cloth,

Environmental control cloth for making sensitivity moodVivid printing , Map fabrics,

Distinction fabrics, Bar code fabrics, Hot melt adhesive materials,

Air bug for automobile, Information built-in fiber, Handy garments (Low bulky, Collapsible),

Signet stamp pad, Writing pad,Cushion materials, Recycling Battery materials

Page 6: Polyester Microfiber

*7) Application to Reinforcement and Disposition propertyIon exchangeable fiber; In-vitro Circulatory artificial liver,

Ammonia gas absorption filter, Image guide,Fiber reinforced plastics, Fibriled paper,

Super electro conductive fiber with metal complex

*8) Using for Compatible living bodyArtificial blood tube, Artificial bone,

Separation materials of blood, Cell culture carrier,Base material for enzyme fixation, Artificial tendon

Page 7: Polyester Microfiber

Size / Scale of Disperse Dye and Polyester fiber

Optical MicroscopeElectron Microscope Naked eye

Visible ray

Dis

trib

utio

n of

Par

ticle

siz

e of

Dis

pers

e dy

e

Mol

ecul

ar s

ize

of D

ispe

rse

dye

Vaca

ncy

amon

g m

olec

ular

of P

ES p

olym

er

Vaca

ncy

amon

g PE

S fil

amen

t

Thic

knes

s of

mon

o fil

amen

t

Bul

ky P

artic

le s

ize

in s

peck

Mes

h of

Fab

rics

(500

mes

h)

Visi

ble

Spec

k si

ze

Cau

sing

Clo

gby

Coa

gula

ted

Part

icle

1 dtex 10 dtex0.1 dtex0.01 dtex 2 3 50.2 0.3 0.50.02 0.03 0.05

Regular FiberMicro FiberSuperMicro FiberSuper Ultra

Micro Fiber

Page 8: Polyester Microfiber

Filament type : Island-in-a sea type fiber Separate type conjugate spinning Improved orthodox spinning type Weight reducing type Super draw type Drawing by Laser heating

Production Method

Random type : Meltblow spinning Flash spining Fiblisation Polymer blend spinning Tuck spinning Burst spinning Bacterium spinning Others

Before Separation After Separation

Sepa

rate

type

Dis

solv

ed R

emov

e ty

pe

Soluble to solvent Insoluble to solvent

Page 9: Polyester Microfiber

General Dyeing Process:

・ Weight Reducing Finishing・ Relax Scouring・ Heat Setting

・ Dyeing

Pre-treatment Polyester Micro-fiber

Page 10: Polyester Microfiber

Examples of Dyeing process(Without Weight Reducing, Relaxing process)

Example 1;    Desizing—Rinsing—Drying—Pre-heat setting—Dyeing—Drying--Finishing

Example 2;   Desizing—Rinsing—Dyeing—Drying—Finishing

Example 3;    Desizing—Rinsing—Drying—Softening—Drying—Raising finishing—Setting   --Dyeing—Softening--Finishing

Example 4;   Desizing—Rinsing—Drying—Pre-heat setting—Dyeing—Softening—Drying  — Raising finishing—Rinsing--Finishing

Page 11: Polyester Microfiber

Weight Reducing Finishing

1) Purpose   a) Roughing on the face of fabrics   b) Softening by slender of yarn (less solidness)   c) Loosing the organization of fabrics and giving drape property

2) Care points   a) Reduction rate: Generally 10-30% and taken care of over reduction   b) Not to happen Uneven reduction parts c) Deterioration of strength of fabrics by over reducing d) Yellowing of fabrics e) Removal of decomposed polyester f) Troubles caused by Accelerator for weight reduction g) Wastewater treatment problem, especially accelerator

Page 12: Polyester Microfiber

3) Technical points

a) Procedures ; Many variations, such as Atmospheric pressure method, High pressure method, Continuous process, Hanging methodb) Stable reduction rate ; Caustic soda 4-20%  c) Using accelerator (quaternary ammonium salt)— Control on Kinds of accelerator and Amounts Control of treatment temperature, time and liquor ratio              (95-130 ℃ 、 1:20—1:60 )d) Uneven weight reduction relates to uneven dyeinge) Management of raw fabrics----          Scouring condition, uniform padding, pick-up rate, moisture rate, f) Other care points ;  ・ Less uneven scouring  ・ Yellowing by residual accelerator  ・ Removing oligomer, decomposed polyester---causing logging at beam

dyeing,    staining on dyeing machine and broken the knitting needle  ・ Lowering the yarn strength ・ Residual accelerator causes Tarring trouble with disperse dye ・ Lowering color reproducibility by Residual accelerator   ・ Wastewater treatment, increasing BOD, and influence to activated sludge

Page 13: Polyester Microfiber

Procedures and Characteristics of Procedures

Process

Operation

Strength

HandlingAmountControl

Atmosphere Boiling methodImmense to NaOH soln. and

boiling in loop method

Batch-wiseX◎◎large◎

easiest

Atmosphere boiling method With Accelerator

(Jet dyeing machine)Batch-wiseX○○small○

easy

High pressure 130℃ method)Jet dyeing machine)Batch-

wise△△○—△medium○

High Pressure 130 method℃with Accelerator

(Jet dyeing machine)Batch-wise△--○--△X○—△least○

Continuous Pad-batch (roll) method

Semi--contin

uous.○◎◎large○

Continuous Pad-steam method contin

uous◎○○--◎medium○

Continuous Pad- cylinder dry method contin

uous◎○—△△large○—△

Page 14: Polyester Microfiber

Calculation Method of Caustic Soda

Merits of high Pressure method : Even weight reduction Uniform reduction at any woven organization Available to smaller amounts of caustic soda Shorten the treatment time

Merits by using accelerators; Shortening time Homogenize among lot to lot variation Reduction of caustic soda amount

Weight reduction rate (%)=(192 X weight of NaOH) / (2 X 40) / weight of fabrics X 100 = 192 / 80 X using amount % owf of NaOH 192 : Molecular Weight of PES 、  2 X 40 : Molecular Weight of NaOH Weight of NaOH : gram number

Page 15: Polyester Microfiber

Examples of practical weight reduction recipe

Example 1 ;  Jet dyeing machine NaOH 10-30 g/l Accelerator    0.5 g/l 95 X 60 min. ℃ ( Boil X 30—60 min. ) Liquor ratio 1 : 30 After treatment ;  Sandzpan LKF (Sandoz) 430 ml / Disperon 100 (Takamatss Yusi) 1073 ml /1,200 l Soaping 95 X 20 min. Not to use acid in this case.℃

Example 2 ;  NaOH     30 g/l Hydrosulfite 5 g/l 98—100 X 75 min.℃    Reduction rate ; 20%

Example 3 ;  High Pressure method NaOH    x % owf (by calculated upon equation) Accelerator    0.5-2 g/l Liquor ratio  1:30   130 X 60 min.℃

Page 16: Polyester Microfiber

Example 4 ;  Jigger dyeing machine Scouring by Jigger Heat setting Weight Reduction Rinsing Neutralization Soaping NaOH     3% Accelerator      0.05% 95-98℃ Passing 6-8 times

Example 5 ;  Winch dyeing machine NaOH     x % owf Accelerator      0.5-2 g/l Dispersing agent 2 g/l Boil X 60-110 min. Neutralization by Acetic acid 2 g/l 、 Dispalon 100 1 g/l Hot rinsing, and rinsing

Example 6 ; Pad Steam or Pad Dry Neutralization Hot rinsing and rinsing NaOH     10 % soln. Methanol or penetrating agent 0.5 g/l

Example 7 ;  Boiling in loop method Winding Andon type of polyester NaOH    30-40 g/l Liquor ratio 1 : 30 95-97 X 2 hrs.℃

Page 17: Polyester Microfiber

Example 8 ;  Pad Roll method NaOH    150-300 g/l   Pad Batching up (Rolling) Φ70-80 cm Cover with vinyl-sheet, and holding at 80 X 6-7 hrs.℃   Rotation by 1-12 r.p.m.

Example 9 ; Pad Steam method or Pad Dry method NaOH    300 g/l Neorate NA-30 (Nikka Chemical) 10 g/l 40% pick-up Steaming ; 130 30 min. or Baking ℃ ; 150 X 5 min.℃

Examples of commercial products as accelerator ;   Olinax ( Meisei Chemical )   Sancleaner V9 ( Nikka Chemical )   Catiosol NS-11 (Takamatsu Yusi)

Page 18: Polyester Microfiber

Rinsing after treatment :Rinsing Acid rinsing Soaping

Rinsing ; Removal of Na-salt of Tere-phtharic acidAcid rinsing ; Removal of auxiliary 、If insufficient removal of them, it will cause tarring problemat dyeingAcetic acid(90%)    2-3 ml/l    60 X 20 min.℃Soaping ; Removing auxiliary       Example of soaping agent ; Marseilles Soap 2 g/l         Dyedisper CD 2 g/l         Mignol 802 3 g/l All treated at 90 x 20 min.℃

Page 19: Polyester Microfiber

Relax Scouring  1) Purpose   a) Removing impurities, thickener, oil coatings ;     These materials causes uneven dyeing, if they are not removed enough  b) Giving swelling of fabrics ;  Adding the higher added value and improvement, such as Bulky property, Stretch property, Soft handling etc.

2) Care points   a) Rope creasing, broken creasing  b) Utilization of beating effects  c) Heating-up speed and higher temperature treatment

3) Technical Points a) It is necessary to treat the fabrics in tensionless condition   b) Treatment condition must be differ by the fabrics woven organization, by kinds of material, kinds of dyeing machine  c) In generally it is said first with weak tension, and not to happen creasing at low temperature, then temperature increase and tensionless treatment and finally slow cooling.

Page 20: Polyester Microfiber

90-100℃

60℃ 20 min.

30 min.

Nonionic detergent 1 g/ lSoda ash 1 g/ l

Hot rinsing-cold rinsing60℃

4) Example of recipe

Page 21: Polyester Microfiber

Heat Setting:

1) Purpose   a) To reduce the shrinkage of the fabrics at dyeing   b) To avoid the fixation of creasing mark

2) General Treatment condition:  150-200 X 30sec.℃

3) Technical Points   a) The higher temperature, the higher effect,      though deteriorate of handling effect.   b) Treatment temp. must be higher than dyeing temp. ,     and after heat set condition.

Page 22: Polyester Microfiber

4) Examples of Setting Condition Regular Polyester: 100% Polyester fabrics 180—210 for 30 sec.℃ Textured fabrics    150—170 for 30 sec.℃ T/C, T/R blended fabrics 190—220 for 30 sec. Modified Polyester: 100% Polyester fabrics 180—210 for 30 sec.℃ Textured fabrics 150—170 for 30 sec.℃ In some cases for polyester textured fabrics steam set is applied: Textured fabrics 130±10 for 5—10 min.℃

Page 23: Polyester Microfiber

Surfa

ce o

f yar

n m2

/g

1 2 3 5Denier

Denier No. and Surface area

1 2 3 4 5Denier

Surfa

ce o

f Dye

ing d

epth

Denier number and Relative dyeing depth

Denier Number and Surface condition of Filament

Page 24: Polyester Microfiber

Dyeing Speed on Micro- Fiber

Dyeing Time / Temperature

ExhaustionRate

Micro-Fiber

ConventionalPolyester

Page 25: Polyester Microfiber

Dyeing time or dyeing temperature

Thick yarn 3.0d

Thin yarn 0.1dRe

lative

dye

ing ra

te (%

)Su

rface

colo

r dep

th Thick yarn 3.0d

Thin yarn 0.1d

Dyeing time or dyeing temperature

Dyeing rate of the dye in same bath

Surface depth of the fabrics in same bath

Dyeing on Complex Fiber (Mixture of Regular- / Micro-)

Page 26: Polyester Microfiber

Dyeing Speed    Absorption of Dye is higher Dyeing speed is higherLevel Dyeing    Dyeing speed is higher Difficult to even dyeingDeep shades Bigger surface area Difficult to get heavy shadeBarriness Blended different yarn Different dyeing Causes barriness problemReproducibility Blended different yarn Different dyeing Lowering reproducibilityHandling Thin yarn Soft touchLower Fastnesses Thin yarn Bigger surface area Easily dye go out from surfaceRubbing and erasing problem Bigger surface area Fibriled fiber taken out easilyAnti-creasing Thin yarn Bigger surface area Easily creasing mark, rope mark

Dyeing Technologies must be considered for Micro-fiber

Based on : Thin yarn Bigger surface area

Page 27: Polyester Microfiber

・ Surface area of materials is 2-5 times higher than conventional   type polyester by means of thickness of yearn.

・ Then dye must be used 2-5 times higher than conventional dyeing for getting same color value.

・ Resultantly fastnesses, such as washing, light, sublimation, rubbing are reduced.

・ Then it is basic points and must be taken care of removal of unfixed dye and auxiliaries from fiber.

・ The selection of dye must be carefully for consideration of level dyeing, reproducibility of color and fastnesses.

・ For Mechanical finishing processes, suede finishing process or raising finishing, it is necessary to use lubricant, smoothing agent or anti-electro static agent.

・ On the other hand, for to add performance or aesthetic( 審美的) finishing,   it need finishing agents such as water-oil repellent agent, softening agent, anti-

pilling agent, anti-slipping agent, moisture management agent which must be taken care of not to deteriorate of fastnesses,

Dyeing Properties of Micro-Fiber

Page 28: Polyester Microfiber

Level Dyeing Technology

The Causes of Uneven dyeing often Thin yarn Bigger surface area Higher Absorption of Dye Higher Dyeing speed

For Level dyeing methods on simple fiber Dyeing temperature ; Control of dyeing speed---Control of heating-up speed Higher dyeing temperature is better for level dyeing, for migration Dyeing machine operation : Control of fabrics cycling (speed up)   Control of Circulation of fabrics and dyeing bath Longer liquor ratio Dyes and Auxiliary phase : Dye of Larger migration property    Better compatible dye combination    Auxiliary having higher migration ability

Page 29: Polyester Microfiber

for pale

for mediium

for deep

80℃

100℃

130℃ X 10 min.

95℃

120℃

130℃ X 20 min.

110℃

130℃ X 20 min.

Room temp.

Room temp.

Room temp

30 min.

25 min.

20 min.

Examples of General Dyeing Procedure

Dyeing Recipe;

Dye X %owfDispersing Agent 1 g/lpH adjuster pH 5.0—5.5 ex. Acetic acid and Na-Acetate 1-3 g/l or Ammonium sulfate 1-3 g/l

If necessary, add followings depending on material conditionSequestering agent 1 g/lPenetrating agent 1 g/lLeveling agent 1 g/l

Page 30: Polyester Microfiber

Selection standards of Dyes for complex micro-fiber ;

・ Solid dyeing on mixed micro-yarn and regular yarn at 120 ℃ dyeing (Dyeing temperature for mixed is sometimes lower than simple fiber)・ Compatible of tri-chromatic colors・ Good levelness and good reproducibility on Blended different yarn

Different dyeing・ Good fastness・ Sometimes levelness and reproducibility are reverse properties.     Which will be important for the purpose?・ Dyeing temperature is mostly at 120℃ on Shin-Gohsen (Complex fiber)

Kayalon Microester, Sumikaron MF, Kiwalon Plyester MR are specially developed for complex micro-fibers

Page 31: Polyester Microfiber

The reason why micro-fiber looks pale

1) Higher Reflectance on the surface Refractive index of polyester is large, as the denier of yarn

decrease, the surface area increase rapidly. Then the reflectance on the surface increase.

2) Shorter Length of Passage inside the filament Light pass length in yarn is shorter comparing with yarn diameter,

then the absorbance of light in yarn becomes small.

Shade Deepening Technology

Page 32: Polyester Microfiber

Shade Deepening MethodMany technicians at fiber maker, dye maker and auxiliary maker have tried to develop the shade deepening technology from their own situation.

1) Fiber maker; Modify the fiber property   ・ Improvement of dyeing ability----- CD-PES etc. (Co-polymerization; Styrene sulfonic acid)  ・ Modify the surface of yarn-----Development of Porous PES

2) Dye maker; Development of dyes ・ Development of New chromophor with higher color value ----- ex. Hetero-cyclic compounds ・ Application of dyeing technology---- Combination technology

3) Auxiliary maker; Development of dyeing auxiliary ・ Development of finishing agent (shade deepening agent ) like addition of oil on the surface of the fiber

Page 33: Polyester Microfiber

Polyester filamentPolyester filament

Development of Porous Polyester(Micro-creator )

Creators are made by Plasma,Before Dyeing or After Dyeing

Modified Polyester with dye site in fabrics Co-polymerization of stylene monomer with sulfuric group

CH=CH2

SO3Na

Page 34: Polyester Microfiber

Dyeing Concentration % owf

Fixing

Rat

e %

100 % line

Dye CDye B

Dye A

Dye A + B

Dye A + B + C

Exhaustion Rate of Dye by Blending

Dyeing Temp. and Time

Yellow A+B+C

Red D+E+FBlue G+H+I

Exha

ustio

n Ra

te

Combination Technology:

Compatibility of Dye

Page 35: Polyester Microfiber

Fluorescent Whitening Technology

• Principal of whitening Effect , Bluing Effects• Whiteness and Amounts of Agent• Quenching Phenomenon• Machine Staining• Commercial Products for Polyester

Page 36: Polyester Microfiber

Refle

ctan

ce %

Wave Length400 nm 700 nm

%

Fluorescent Whitenning agent

Blueing

Raw Material

100 % Surface of Snow fallen

Whitening Effect

Blue dye

Principal of Fluorescent Whitening

White

ness

% owfAmount of Agent

Quenching Effects

Quenching Effects

Page 37: Polyester Microfiber

Typical Commercial Products for Polyester

Blancophor EBLDaitophor EFLFluolite XMFHostalux PE

Mikawhite ATN, HTN, HTS, STN, BBNMikephor ETN

Palanil White G, RTinopal ERT, ET

Uvitex ERN, EBF , EBX, EMT, EM-V, EDR, EBH, EBB, EVB, EFTMany of Modified Products

Dyeing Temperature: 120-130℃Time : 30-60 min.

Color shade: Greenish-----Reddish