Determination of woven fabric

performance: pilling, abrasion,

tear and breaking strength

Berrak Arıkan

Esin Yegin

Sinem Atasoy

Pilling (boncuklanma)

• Pilling is the formation of bunches or balls of tangled fibers, which are held to the surface of a fabric by one or more fibers.

• The resistance to the formation of pills on the surface of a textile fabric is known as pilling resistance.

Pilling

• Pilling of yarn or fabric is due to the fiber mobility action with in the yarn.

• Yarn dimensional stability is very important because if yarn is dimensionally stable less fiber mobility in the yarn and hence less pilling will occur on the fabric surface.

Appearance of pilling under

microscope

The pilling of textile fabrics is a very complex property

because it is affected by many factors that include:

•Type of fiber or blends

•Fiber dimensions

•Yarn construction

•Fabric construction

•Fabric finishing treatments

• Pilling does not change any fabric’s properties like strenght, elongation.

• It only affect to appearance of fabric.

Pilling tests

•ICI Pilling box

•Random tumble pilling test

•Pilling test Swiss standard

•Martindale pilling tests

ICI Pilling Box

• It is most common used method for determine the pilling.

Procedure

• For this test four specimens (125 x 125 mm) are cut from fabric. ( two of them is warp direction, two of them is weft direction)

• A seam allowance of 12 mm is marked on the back of each square and a seam is sewn on the marked lines.

• All four specimens which are prepared on polyurethane tube are placed in one pilling box.

• The usual number of revolutions used in the test is 18.000 which takes 5 hours.

Assessment• The specimens are viewed using oblique lighting

in order to throw the pills into relief.

• The scales are divided into five gredes and runfrom grade 5, no pilling to grade 1, very severepilling

Random Tumble Pilling Test

Procedure

• Three samples are cut at an angle 45 to lenght of the fabric.

• All three samples are placed in one test chamber.

• The machine is run for 30 minutes.

• Then the fabric is evaluated by coparing them.

Martindale pilling tests

Pilling of various fabrics

Tear and Breaking Strength

• Breaking point

• Expressed in pounds

• Depends on yarn

strength, fabric

construction, density

etc.

Strip method

• Clamp specimen

with a grip distance of

75 mm (3 in.).

• Pull the strips until

the fabric breaks.

Grab Test

• Jaw faces that are

shorter than the fabric

• Simple and fast test

• Tearing strength

• Expressed in grams or pounds

• Depends on the fabric

construction, density, yarn

properties etc.

1. Single Rip Tear Test

2. Double Rip Tear Test

• Central one is gripped

by a jaw,

• Outer two are gripped by

other jaw

3. Wing Rip Tear Test

• Tearing remains

substantially in line

with the center of the

grips

4. Elmendorf tear test

• Measures energy loss

during tearing

Energy loss = tearing force x distance

Loss of potential energy = work done

Abrasion resistance tests for

woven fabrics

What is abrasion?

• Academics at Leeds University have described abrasion as “the physical destruction of fibres, yarns, and fabrics, resulting from the rubbing of a textile surface over another surface”.

Factors

• Fibre type

• Fibre properties

• Yarn twist

• Fabric structure

ASTM D4157-07* Wyzenbeek

(Oscillatory Cylinder) test method• The Wyzenbeek testing process requires samples

of the test fabric to be pulled taut in a frame and held stationary. Individual test specimens cut from the warp and weft directions are then rubbed back and forth using an ACT approved #10 cotton duck fabric as the abradant.

• upholstery fabrics

ASTM D4966-98** Martindale test

method• The Martindale testing process requires fabric

samples to be mounted flat and rubbed in an enlarging elliptical T shape using a piece of worsted wool cloth as the abradant. The end point is reached when two yarn breaks occur or when there is an appreciable change in shade or appearance.

• The advantage of the Martindale abrasion test is that the fabric sample gets abrasion in all directions.

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KpNj_iO99xE

Taber abraser device(Rotary

Platform)

• can be used for most fabrics.

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=idJGrLcaDlQ

•Berrak Arıkan

•Esin Yegin

•Sinem Atasoy