piedmontese winemaker
DESCRIPTION
wine, winemakers, italy, torino, producer,TRANSCRIPT
pg.26LOCAL TALENTNIAGARA RIVER WINERIES
pg.2
pg.16ARGENTINA
PREMIUM WINES
PIEDMONT &TUSCANY
pg.22WHISKY
WISE
welcomeoctober 15
VINTAGES
plus...PRODUCT INFO & TASTING NOTES pages 30-47
TEAR-OUT SHOPPING LIST pages 49-50
VINTAGES SPECIAL OFFERS pages 54-55
*vintages.com
2 VINTAGES
DOUBLETAKE
The great Italian wine regions of Piedmont and Tuscany have one thing in
common: each has a single grape variety that defines its identity. In
Piedmont, it’s the diva Nebbiolo; in Tuscany, the sturdier Sangiovese. Yet,
like France’s Burgundy and Bordeaux, these two dynamic regions’ approach-
es to life and winemaking couldn’t be more different. Join VINTAGES as
we explore these spectacular winegrowing regions, meet two of their top
producers, and introduce you to a host of fine wines.
From signature grapes to winemaking traditions, Italy’s grand Piedmont andTuscany regions have forgedtwo unique identities throughthe centuries.
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A TALE OF TWO FAMILIESThough one proffers wine samples from inside a humble farmhouse kitchen
while the other operates from palatial premises, the Fenocchios of Piedmont and
the Antinoris of Tuscany are both driving forces in their respective regions.
It was started as a tiny venture in 1864 by Stefano Fenocchio,and the Fenocchio winery remains in the family today. Visitors tothe Barolo-area property – which has grown some from its earlyyears – are likely to be invited into the family kitchen, whichdoubles as the tasting room. Giacomo, the father of the generationcurrently running the operation, was a firm believer in tradition.In fact, he’s been quoted as saying, “You don’t change a methodor a culture, because they are not ours to change.” Giacomo’ssons, Claudio and Alberto, proudly carry on the traditions passedon to them from both their father and grandfather. The resultsare wines, including single-vineyard bottlings from Fenocchio’sfine Bussia property, which reflect the family’s down-to-earthheritage while offering a nod to modern techniques.
� The Fenocchios of Piedmont �
The Fenocchio winery, run by Claudio (pictured) and Alberto Fenocchio, encompassesabout 12 hectares in various locations including their renowned Bussia vineyards.
GIACOMO FENOCCHIOBUSSIA BAROLO 2005See Page 9 for tasting note.
Cherished traditions born of simple roots
Grand visions from a noble lineage
With holdings throughout Tuscany and beyond, the family-run house of Antinori is the epitome of aristocratic Italy.Though the company as we know it was formed in 1895,the family’s involvement in winemaking goes all the wayback to the 14th century. Antinori has expanded over thelast century or so to become one of the most importantproducers in Italy; they really began to hit their stride aftercurrent head Piero Antinori took over in 1966. He, alongwith a handful of others, was responsible for making theTuscan wine industry what it is today, andwas a pioneer in the Supertuscan move-ment that pushed against the stricturesof the regional appellation system, andresulted in the creation of the IGT systemthat recognized wines that broke appella-tion rules. Visit any of the many Antinoriproperties and you’ll find palace-likebuildings with vast expanses of vineyardsthat seemingly disappear into the distance. And yet, this is still a familyaffair – on a 21st-century Tuscan scale.
� The Antinoris of Tuscany �
RIGHT: The Antinori winery’soperations are overseen
by Piero Antinori, with hisdaughters (from left, pictured
at their Tignanello estate)Alberia, Alessia and Allegra.
TOP: Antinori vineyardssurround the Medieval Castello
della Sala. CENTRE LEFT: In centuries past, wineries sold
their products through tinydoors like this. CENTRE RIGHT:
Wrought-iron gates open into the family’s 15th-century
Florence palazzo.
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ANTINORI PIAN DELLEVIGNE BRUNELLO
DI MONTALCINO 2005See Page 12 for tasting note.
6 VINTAGES
PIEDMONT � Handcrafted wines coaxed from challenging terrain �
properties to be found. Producers akin to gentlemenfarmers practice their craft on small holdings, makingartisanal wines from vineyards often just outside thefamily home’s front door.
Piedmontese winemakers generally embrace the“one grape/one wine” philosophy found in Burgundy.That grape is the finicky Nebbiolo, which thrives in Piedmont’s perfect confluence of terroir features.With their continental climates, sandy soils, andvineyards on undulating hills ringed by mountains,the Barolo and Barbaresco appellations have madeNebbiolo what it is (this despite their size: Barolohas only 1700 hectares under vine; Barbaresco, lessthan 800). Although equal in pedigree, Barbaresco,with its slightly milder climate, makes Nebbiolosthat tend to be more elegant and approachable thanthe burly, long-lived Barolos. Other grapes thrive in Piedmont too, such as Dolcetto and Barbera, whichmake juicy, crowd-pleasing wines.
The region’s wines match its cuisine perfectly.Piedmont is where rice (used for risotto) first prosperedin Italy, and where truffle dogs and pigs can be seen working the hilly areas around Alba, snufflingfor the rare white version of the prized fungi.
Any alpine region presents challengesfor farming, and in Piedmont, thismeans that winemaking has always beenconfined to small, often isolated single-vineyard areas, with few grand
ABOVE: Barolo’s Castello Falletti,parts of which date to the
10th century. RIGHT: Piedmont,which translates as “foot of
the mountain” is defined by itsrolling hills surrounded by
the Italian Alps. BOTTOM RIGHT:Nebbiolo grapes.
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8 VINTAGES
LA QUERCIOLA
CHICCHIVELLO LANGHE
ROSSO 2008
DOC
Though they did not write a
review for this wine, in their
2010 guide, Gambero Rosso
rated it � � �
.
TASTING NOTE: This blend
of Dolcetto, Barbera and
Nebbiolo is a good example of
the Piedmontese style, with
aromas of hibiscus, leather,
pomegranate, tar and candied
strawberry. Dry, with very good
aroma replays, plus some
soft acids and gentle tannins
for balance. Serve it very
slightly chilled to bring the finer
aromas out. Enjoy with lamb
burgers, gourmet beef burgers,
or steaks. (VINTAGES panel,
Aug. 2011)
225227 (D) 750 mL
$13.95 �New at VINTAGES
PODERI DI LUIGI EINAUDI
DOLCETTO DI DOGLIANI
2009
DOC
TASTING NOTE: Supple and
harmonious, offering aromas
and flavors of ripe black cherry,
raspberry, dark chocolate and
iron aromas and flavors. The
vibrant structure keeps this
defined and persistent as the
finish lingers. Drink now
through 2014. Smart Buy.
Score: 90 (Bruce Sanderson,
winespectator.com, April 30,
2011)
232454 (XD) 750 mL
$18.95 �
GUASTI CLEMENTE &
FIGLI FONDA S. NICOLAO
BARBERA D’ASTI
SUPERIORE 2005
DOC
Gambero Rosso gave this wine
a rating of � � �
in its 2010
edition, but did not provide a
written review.
TASTING NOTE: Pretty, crowd-
pleasing Barbera with aromas
of spring flowers, cherry, herbes
de Provence, and coffee bean.
Dry, lovely fruit tones with a racy
acidity bringing excellent
refreshment to the wine even
after six years. Medium
bodied with a hint of tannin
coming in on the mid-palate
for balance. A great wine to
enjoy with grilled lamb chops.
(VINTAGES panel, Nov. 2010)
233890 (XD) 750 mL
$21.95 �
GUASTI CLEMENTE &
FIGLI RISERVA
BARBARESCO 2005
DOCG
TASTING NOTE: Fine Nebbiolo
with aromas of chestnut,
cherry, blackberry and cedar
spice. Dry with plentiful
fruit and finely matched tannins
and acidity. Very good aroma
replays, especially chestnut and
cherry. Medium bodied with
a long, balanced and focused
finish. Approachable now
with grilled steaks and wild
mushroom risotto, but will also
reward 3-5 years in a cellar.
(VINTAGES panel, Nov. 2010)
233908 (XD) 750 mL
$35.95 �New at VINTAGES
GIACOMO FENOCCHIO
BUSSIA BAROLO 2005
DOCG
This cru Barolo comes from
the finest part of Fenocchio’s
Bussia vineyards located
in Monforte d’Alba. They age
the wine for three years in
Slavonian oak casks and then
another year in bottle before
release. Enjoy it with slow-
cooked roast beef or grilled-
rare steaks.
TASTING NOTE: Fresh, elegant,
and lively, with good fruit
and fine balance. Drink 2010-
2015. Score: � � � � �
(decanter.com, Undated)
232421 (XD) 750 mL
$42.95 �Featured on the
back cover
New at VINTAGES
The village of Barolo isdominated by the CastelloFalletti and, to its left, theRomanesque San Donatochapel. The castle is used forwine tastings and educationalexhibits about wine production.
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TUSCANY � Famous blends and expansive, sun-kissed vineyards �
too, yet only in the last 35 years or so has a realwinemaking renaissance emerged in Tuscany.Aristocratic families, such as the Antinoris andFrescobaldis, whose connections to winemaking go back to before Leonardo, led a charge to shakeup winemaking, creating Supertuscans that morphed into IGT-designated versions.
Unlike the Piedmontese approach to winemaking,the Tuscan philosophy is more akin to Bordeaux’s:the art of the blend. Though focused on the great localgrape Sangiovese, wineries – especially in ChiantiClassico, its satellites, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano,selected IGT wines and some others – have flour-ished with the option of using multiple supplementalvarieties. There are exceptions: The wines ofBrunello di Montalcino made their mark by adheringto a clone of Sangiovese that’s now generally known as the Brunello grape.
With its expanses of land for grape growing, andwinemaking families with ample resources to spendon large properties, Tuscany has emerged as a majorstop on many a wine lover’s travels. The food is adraw, too, with good reason: Tuscan cuisine, such assteak Florentine, showcases fresh, local ingredients,simply crafted to accentuate flavours.
From art to politics to philosophicalpursuits, Florence was the point fromwhich many important legacies of the Renaissance emerged. Over thecenturies, winemaking has been key
This idyllic, sun-drenchedlandscape dotted with cypresstrees is typically Tuscan.
VINTAGES 11
ABOVE: A colourful fall vineyard in therolling hills near Siena. BELOW: Producersassess bottles of their Brunello diMontalcino. BOTTOM: Sangiovese grapes.
CORDELLA ROSSO DI
MONTALCINO 2009
DOC
TASTING NOTE: Beautifully
made wine from young
Sangiovese Grosso vines. Plum,
licorice, garden herbs, leather
(think freshly oiled baseball
glove) and cherry. Dry and
fruity with good acidity for
refreshment and gentle
tannins for balance. Medium
bodied with a medium-long,
very elegant finish. This is very
enjoyable now with grilled
lamb skewers, or cellar 1-2
years. (VINTAGES panel,
Aug. 2011)
251462 (XD) 750 mL
$19.95 �Featured as our
Wine of the Month
New at VINTAGES
ANTINORI PIAN DELLE
VIGNE BRUNELLO DI
MONTALCINO 2005
DOCG
TASTING NOTE: The 2005
Brunello di Montalcino is a
gorgeous, classy offering laced
with fragrant, mineral-infused
red fruit, flowers and spices.
This delicate, medium-bodied
Brunello reveals outstanding
length and a clean, refreshing
finish. With time in the glass, the
wine’s inner perfume emerges,
adding even greater complexity.
Antinori’s 2005 Brunello is
one of the successes of the
vintage ... Anticipated maturity:
2011-2021 ... Score: 92
(Antonio Galloni, erobertpark-
er.com, April 2010)
651141 (XD) 750 mL
$59.95 �Featured on the
back cover
SAN FELICE
CAMPOGIOVANNI
BRUNELLO DI
MONTALCINO 2005
DOCG
TASTING NOTE: Wild berry
and forest aromas open the
nose of this clean and direct
Brunello. There’s very nice
purity and intensity here and
the wine showcases layers of
red fruit, plum, spice, leather
and rose petal. The silky and
smooth mouthfeel would work
with meat dishes or hearty
pasta. Score: 91
(Monica Larner, Wine
Enthusiast, Oct. 1, 2010)
991075 (XD) 750 mL
$44.95 �12 VINTAGES
VINTAGES 13
SCOPETANI
CHIANTI RISERVA 2007
DOCG
TASTING NOTE: A fine Chianti
Riserva with classic aromas
of cherry, red berries, roasted
coffee, olive, and earth tones.
Dry, youthful and fresh wine that
will reward cellaring (3-5+
years), or match it tonight with
roast leg of lamb. (VINTAGESpanel, Nov. 2010)
164814 (D) 750 mL
$14.95 �VOLPAIA
CHIANTI CLASSICO 2008
DOCG(Giovannella Stianti)
TASTING NOTE: Volpaia’s 2008
Chianti Classico is a pretty,
mid-weight offering informed by
tobacco, flowers, herbs and
cherries. As is often the case in
cooler years, these high-
altitude vineyards tend to yield
a more ethereal style of wine.
Still, this Chianti Classico finds
its balance nicely with time
in the glass. It is a model of
restrained elegance.
Anticipated maturity: 2010-
2014. Score: 90 (Antonio
Galloni, erobertparker.com,
August 2010)
953828 (XD) 750 mL
$21.95 �
TENUTA DI NOZZOLE LA
FORRA CHIANTI CLASSICO
RISERVA 2007
DOCG(Ambrogio e GiovanniFolonari)
TASTING NOTE: The 2007
Chianti Classico Riserva La
Forra blossoms on the palate
with an exciting array of dark
fruit, smoke, earthiness and
licorice. French oak adds
volume and spiciness but with-
out detracting from the purity
of the fruit or the silkiness of
the tannins. This is a very
beautiful La Forra from Folonari.
The warm, inviting personality
of the vintage is on full display,
making this a terrific choice
for drinking over the next few
years. Anticipated maturity:
2010-2017. Score: 92
(Antonio Galloni, erobertpark-
er.com, Oct. 2010)
177279 (XD) 750 mL
$29.95 �
POLIZIANO VINO NOBILE
DI MONTEPULCIANO 2007
DOCG
TASTING NOTE: The 2007
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
impresses for its rich, weighty
personality packed with red
fruit. The roundness of the
fruit carries through nicely to
the finish, showing no hard
edges and fabulous balance.
Floral notes add brightness
and lift on the close. Anticipated
maturity: 2010-2017. These
are among the finest wines I
can remember tasting
from Poliziano, one of Monte-
pulciano’s reference-point
producers. Score: 90 (Antonio
Galloni, erobertparker.com,
Oct. 2010)
988055 (XD) 750 mL
$25.95 �
LEFT: A winery worker harvests grapes for Chianti in a vineyard purportedly once
owned by Machiavelli.
14 VINTAGES
VINTAGES 15
CASA DI TERRA MORECCIO
BOLGHERI 2009
DOC
TASTING NOTE: Despite its
very young age, this bright
30-30-40 blend of Syrah,
Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon
shows impressive sophistication
and personality. Neutral oak
is used to fine-tune the spice
aromas and the wine shows
intense flavors of blackberry,
cherry, leather and pipe
tobacco. Score: 89 (Monica
Larner, Wine Enthusiast,
Dec. 15, 2010)
232405 (XD) 750 mL
$19.95 New at VINTAGES
MARCHESI DE’
FRESCOBALDI TERRE
MORE DELL’ AMMIRAGLIA
2009
IGT Maremma Toscana
This is a brand new project
for Frescobaldi.
TASTING NOTE: This blend
of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot,
Cabernet Franc and Syrah
features aromas of rich plum,
smoked meat, currants, vanilla
and leather. Dry with lots of fruit
surrounded by softening
tannins. A fine non-traditional
Tuscan blend with a very good
future ahead of it (cellar 3-5+
years), or enjoy it tonight with
grilled wild game along with
grilled zucchini and eggplant.
(VINTAGES panel, Jan. 2011)
239889 (XD) 750 mL
$19.95 New at VINTAGES
POGGIO VERRANO
CHANCE 2005
IGT Maremma Toscana,Limited Edition
TASTING NOTE: The 2005
Chance is impressive. A blend
of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon
and Cabernet Franc ... This
shows notable delineation
and depth, with an attractive
roundness to the fruit that
flows through to the finish. The
finish tapers off just a touch,
which is the only thing that
keeps the score from going
higher, but I suspect that will
be less of a problem in more
favorable vintages. This is a
great example of the exuber-
ant, juicy reds being made
in the province of Grosseto ...
It is a fabulous effort from
Poggioverano. Anticipated
maturity: 2010-2020.
Score: 92 (Antonio Galloni,
erobertparker.com, Oct. 2010)
239707 (XD) 750 mL
$33.95
LUCE DELLA VITE LUCE
2008
IGT Toscana
The 2008 is not reviewed,
but all the vintages from 2003
to 2007 received scores
between 90 and 95 in the
Wine Spectator.
TASTING NOTE: Really jumps
out of the glass with aromas of
mint, plum, new leather, cedar,
coffee and vanilla. Dry with
textured tannins surrounding
the vibrant fruit. To use a
music metaphor, it offers the
whole range from bass to
treble, and yet there’s likely
even more to come down
the road. Cellar it 3-5+ years,
or enjoy it tonight, decanted,
with a juicy steak and a wild
mushroom risotto. (VINTAGESpanel, Aug. 2011)
651000 (XD) 375 mL
$49.95 685263 (XD) 750 mL
$99.95