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  • 58 59

    CHINA

    Thomas Barnard

  • Contents

    3 Chronology

    4 Beijing

    20 Details

    22 Great Wall

    24 Sacred Way & Ming Tombs

    26 Xian

    35 Parks

    36 Inner Mongolia, Hohhot

    42 Inner Mongolia, Grasslands

    44 Friends

    46 Dining

    48 Transportation

    50 Shopping

    52 Beijing Foreign Studies University and Miscellany

    54 Dispatches

    Photography

    Thomas Barnard

    Sharon Herene

    Peter Tupa

    Cover: Black BambooPark, Beijing

  • Contents

    3 Chronology

    4 Beijing

    20 Details

    22 Great Wall

    24 Sacred Way & Ming Tombs

    26 Xian

    35 Parks

    36 Inner Mongolia, Hohhot

    42 Inner Mongolia, Grasslands

    44 Friends

    46 Dining

    48 Transportation

    50 Shopping

    52 Beijing Foreign Studies University and Miscellany

    54 Dispatches

    Photography

    Thomas Barnard

    Sharon Herene

    Peter Tupa

    Cover: Black BambooPark, Beijing

  • Chronology

    MAY 23Arrive in Beijing

    May 24Summer Palace

    MAY 25TB tries 1,000 year egg.Shopping for sinus medicine atdepartment store pharmacy,Forbidden City

    MAY 26First bus ride, subway trip toFriendship Store. Temple ofHeaven, Pearl Market. BuyEmilys working girl ceramic.

    MAY 27Yonghe Gong Lamasery,Confucius House, Korean dinner,more 1,000 year eggs, wholesquid, canal walk at night

    MAY 28Shopping Liulicheng antiquemarket. Tea house, SH plays Go,walk to pizza place throughreal Beijing

    MAY 29Great Wall, Ming Tombs,Sacred Way, adults-only dinner

    MAY 30Beijing Zoo, Dumplings at Mr.Jiangs apartment, Beijing Opera

    MAY 31Train to Xian (soft sleeper)

    JUNE 1 Childrens DayXian tour, Banpo neolithicvillage, baths, terracottawarriors, pulled noodles forlunch

    JUNE 2Xian city wall, Big GoosePagoda, jade factory, drivethrough Muslim quarter, train(hard sleeper) to Beijing

    JUNE 3Shopping: Liulicheng, DazhalanJie, Observatory, long march toSchlotzkys, dust storm

    JUNE 4TB plays a little volleyball, tourof Hutongs, Prince Gongs House

    JUNE 5Canal boat ride to SummerPalace, more shopping at theFriendship store, Silk Market,TB gets a haircut

    JUNE 6Minorities University,SH shopping, TB Black BambooParkTrain to Hohhot (soft sleeper)

    JUNE 7Breakfast: TB eats lambsstomach stew and milk tea.Hohhot tour, lamasery, lunch:Mongolian hot pot, elementaryschool, dinner: Sorghum winewith bull penis

    JUNE 8Breakfast TB tries chicken feet,bus ride to Grasslands, horseride, overnight in cement yurt

    JUNE 9Old road to Hohhot, Hohhothistory museum, train to Beijing(soft sleeper)

    JUNE 10Shopping at Sporting goodsmarket for suitcase. Beihai Park,White Pagoda, last taxi ride

    JUNE 11Depart for Cleveland

  • Chronology

    MAY 23Arrive in Beijing

    May 24Summer Palace

    MAY 25TB tries 1,000 year egg.Shopping for sinus medicine atdepartment store pharmacy,Forbidden City

    MAY 26First bus ride, subway trip toFriendship Store. Temple ofHeaven, Pearl Market. BuyEmilys working girl ceramic.

    MAY 27Yonghe Gong Lamasery,Confucius House, Korean dinner,more 1,000 year eggs, wholesquid, canal walk at night

    MAY 28Shopping Liulicheng antiquemarket. Tea house, SH plays Go,walk to pizza place throughreal Beijing

    MAY 29Great Wall, Ming Tombs,Sacred Way, adults-only dinner

    MAY 30Beijing Zoo, Dumplings at Mr.Jiangs apartment, Beijing Opera

    MAY 31Train to Xian (soft sleeper)

    JUNE 1 Childrens DayXian tour, Banpo neolithicvillage, baths, terracottawarriors, pulled noodles forlunch

    JUNE 2Xian city wall, Big GoosePagoda, jade factory, drivethrough Muslim quarter, train(hard sleeper) to Beijing

    JUNE 3Shopping: Liulicheng, DazhalanJie, Observatory, long march toSchlotzkys, dust storm

    JUNE 4TB plays a little volleyball, tourof Hutongs, Prince Gongs House

    JUNE 5Canal boat ride to SummerPalace, more shopping at theFriendship store, Silk Market,TB gets a haircut

    JUNE 6Minorities University,SH shopping, TB Black BambooParkTrain to Hohhot (soft sleeper)

    JUNE 7Breakfast: TB eats lambsstomach stew and milk tea.Hohhot tour, lamasery, lunch:Mongolian hot pot, elementaryschool, dinner: Sorghum winewith bull penis

    JUNE 8Breakfast TB tries chicken feet,bus ride to Grasslands, horseride, overnight in cement yurt

    JUNE 9Old road to Hohhot, Hohhothistory museum, train to Beijing(soft sleeper)

    JUNE 10Shopping at Sporting goodsmarket for suitcase. Beihai Park,White Pagoda, last taxi ride

    JUNE 11Depart for Cleveland

  • 4 5Summer Palace, Beijing

  • 4 5Summer Palace, Beijing

  • 6 7Forbidden City, Beijing

  • 6 7Forbidden City, Beijing

  • 8 9Temple of Heaven, Beijing

  • 8 9Temple of Heaven, Beijing

  • 10 11Yonghe Gong Buddhist Temple, Beijing

  • 10 11Yonghe Gong Buddhist Temple, Beijing

  • 12 13Confucius House, Beijing Beijing Zoo

  • 12 13Confucius House, Beijing Beijing Zoo

  • 14 15Beihai Park, Beijing

  • 14 15Beihai Park, Beijing

  • 16 17Black Bamboo Park, Beijing Beijing Observatory

  • 16 17Black Bamboo Park, Beijing Beijing Observatory

  • 18 19Beijing Hutongs Prince Gongs House, Beijing

  • 18 19Beijing Hutongs Prince Gongs House, Beijing

  • 20 21Details

  • 20 21Details

  • 22 23Great Wall

  • 22 23Great Wall

  • 24 25Sacred Way & Ming Tombs

  • 24 25Sacred Way & Ming Tombs

  • 26 27Xian Warriors

  • 26 27Xian Warriors

  • 28 29Xian Warrior Museum

  • 28 29Xian Warrior Museum

  • 30 31Xian Hot Spring Baths

  • 30 31Xian Hot Spring Baths

  • 32 33Xian Big Goose Pagoda

  • 32 33Xian Big Goose Pagoda

  • 34 35Xian City Wall and Warrior Reproduction Center Parks

  • 34 35Xian City Wall and Warrior Reproduction Center Parks

  • 36 37Hohhots Oldest MosqueInner Mongolia, Hohhot Museum

  • 36 37Hohhots Oldest MosqueInner Mongolia, Hohhot Museum

  • 38 39Hohhot Lamasery

  • 38 39Hohhot Lamasery

  • 40 41Hohhot School Old Road to Hohhot (from Grasslands)

  • 40 41Hohhot School Old Road to Hohhot (from Grasslands)

  • 42 43Grasslands, Inner Mongolia

  • 42 43Grasslands, Inner Mongolia

  • 44 45Friends

  • 44 45Friends

  • 46 47Dining

  • 46 47Dining

  • 48 49Transportation

  • 48 49Transportation

  • 50 51Shopping

  • 50 51Shopping

  • 52 53Beijing Foreign Studies University and miscellany

  • 52 53Beijing Foreign Studies University and miscellany

  • 54 55

    From: Tom BarnardSent: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 5:47 AMSubject: May 29 - Beijing

    Now thats a Great Wall-Richard Nixon

    Its not only a great wall, but a steep wall. The most aggressive souve-nir hawkers to date corner and strong arm you at every opportunity.

    Last night the leaders wimped out and we went for pizza. Corn andhot peppers with practically no tomato sauce.

    This week we are having classroom presentations by professors at theschool. Yesterdays professor spoke on the single child policy. Hespent time in the states and lived in Mt. Vernon, Washington (about20 minutes from where my grandfather lived, well north of Seattle).The previous evening we had dinner with another prof. fromLaConner, Washington. The exact same town where grandpa resided.The other presentation was about high school and college entranceexaminations in Chinas school systems.

    Its 80+ every day. Heat is wearing everybody down, not to mentionthe 24-hour hi-rise construction immediately outside our window.Toilets now working and getting plenty of it, but we are holding upOK. Hot water has been restored too.

    Tom and Sharon

    From: Tom BarnardSent: Sunday, May 26, 2002 10:08 AMSubject: May 26 China update

    Hello! Cheap! Hello! Cheap! Buy? you want to buy?

    Thats how we are greeted on most of our field trips. Went to the de-partment store and Forbidden City yesterday. Today we took ajammed bus and a pleasant subway ride to the Friendship store,Pearl Market, and the Temple of Heaven. As with any tourist destina-tion their are Japanese tourists everywhere taking pictures.

    Weve been bartering for a few things while here. I learned the num-bers 0-99 pretty well and when the negotiating gets tough, I surprisethe stalwarts by bidding in Chinese.

    The meals are fabulously cheap. Dinner last night, hot pot, was $1.25each. Tonight we spent a fortune, $9 for both of us. As for experimen-tation, Ive been pretty adventurous: thousand year egg soup forbreakfastegg is soaked in (you dont want to know) so that it turnsblack. It was mostly rice soup with a goopy base. Tonight we had awhole fish that was fantastic and calamari soup with whole, tinysquid; and I mean whole! We declined on frog, and found out after-wards that they also served sharks fin. Mostly weve had rice andnoodle dishes, which are quite good. Only a couple times have dishesshowed up laden with red peppers which we pick off.

    Coffee is nonexistent except at the Forbidden City which has a *$.Sometimes you see espresso on the menu, but its vending machinestyle, no thanks. Chrysanthemum tea was served with our pricey din-ner. Otherwise we get run-of the mill green tea. Well attend a serioustea ceremony and taste real top notch teas on Tuesday night.

    Weather has been in the high 80s everyday, sunny and dusty. Lots ofsunscreen.

    Today our toilet failed. Tank refused to fill and drained all over thefloor. Not