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Personal Care Formulary

pure in cosmetics

Performance and Sensorial

modifiers for: AP/DEO Sun Care Hair Care Color Cosmetics

Elementis Specialties is a global supplier of

natural hectorite clay and provider of natural

biofunctional and active ingredients for hair

care, skin care and anti-aging formulations.

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pure in cosmet ics

Before using any of our products, please consult our Safety Data Sheets.

The information in this publication is, to the best of our knowledge, true and accurate, but since the conditions of use are beyond our control, no warranty is given or to be implied in respect of such information. In every case, caution must be exercised to avoid violation or infringement of statutory obligations and any rights belonging to a third party. We are, at all time, willing to study customers’ specific outlets involving our products in order to enable their most effective use.

©Copyright 2015, Elementis Specialties, Inc.

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Copying and/or downloading of this document or information therein for republication is not allowed unless prior written agreement is obtained from Elementis Specialties, Inc.

®Registered trademark of Elementis Specialties, Inc.

ANTIPERSPIRANT & DEODORANT

TECHNOLOGY

Benefit of Hectorite Clay 1

Performance benefits 2

Aerosol AP with Bentone Gel VS-5PC V 4

Anhydrous Roll-On Antiperspirant 4

Dry Antiperspirant Stick 5

SUN CARE

Technology 6

Organic Sun Lotion 8

Organic Sunscreen 8

Inorganic Sunscreen 9

Inorganic Sunscreen 9

Organic Sunscreen 10

Daily UV Protecting Lotion 10

HAIR CARE

Technology and Market Needs 11

Hair Manageability 12

Hair Shine 12

Hair Repair and Reconstruction 13

Prevention of Damage 14

Color Durability 14

Color Care Shampoo 15

Hair Glossing Serum 15

Color Care Daily Conditioner 16

Nourishing Hair Oil 16

Anti-Aging Conditioner 17

Leave-In Conditioner with Heat Protection 17

Restorative Hair Mask 18

COLOR COSMETICS

Technology 19

CC Cream Multifunctional Hydrator 21

Light Moisturizing BB Cream with SPF 30++ 22

Oil Based Eye Shadow 23

Moisturizing Cream Lipstick 23

Long Wear Mascara 24

Lip Gloss 24

Contents

1

Antiperspirant and Deodorant Technology

Underarm antiperspirants come in a variety of forms, but regardless of whether they are aerosols, sprays, roll-on emulsions

or sticks, they all need rheological additives to suspend the Aluminium salts, which are the active ingredients in antiperspi-

rants.

Rheological additives provide uniformity in application and dosage of the product. In stick formulations they act as an in-

process suspension aid, so that the Aluminium salts do not settle out while the sticks are still in their molten state. Once the

stick has formed the rheological additives provide an internal matrix that enhances structural integrity, smooths application,

controls payout rate and provides a soft skin feel.

Benefits of Hectorite Clay

Suspension of actives

Uniform dosage of actives

Prevention of nozzle blocking

Reduced staining and whitening on fabrics

Better dispersal of settled actives

Improved stability

Improved skin feel

2

Suspension of Actives

Antiperspirant emulsion formulas were created using either Bentone® 38V or silica at

8% with 20% Aluminium Chlorohydrate. Figure 1 shows the samples after 1 month at

40°C. Here the modified fumed Silicas all showed stability problems, whereas the

BENTONE® 38 V and fumed Silicas all provided good long term stability.

In Figure 2 we can see antiperspirant spray systems containing no additive,

BENTONE® 38 V, BENTONE GEL® VS-5PC V and BENTONE GEL® IPM V, 16 seconds

after shaking. The sample with no additive has the worst suspension. BENTONE® 38

V improves this, with BENTONE GEL® VS-5PC V and BENTONE GEL® VS-IPM V offering

superior suspension. After 1 minute the Aluminium Chlorohydrate in the samples

with no additive and BENTONE® 38 V has completely settled to the bottom of the

container, whereas the samples with BENTONE GEL® show good to almost complete

suspension even after 1 minute, see Figure 3. Optimal performance of any

organoclay requires addition of chemical activator (typically Propylene Carbonate or

Ethanol/Water) and high energy homogenisation to fully delaminate individual clay

platelets. Adding BENTONE® 38 V powder and the desired chemical activator using

standard homogenisation does not work as efficiently as using the corresponding

BENTONE GEL®. Whenever using a BENTONE GEL® the experience and know-how of

Elementis Specialties garantees the formulator that the organoclay is fully dispersed.

Figure 1. Stability of emulsions with Aluminum

Chlorohydrate

Bentone® 38V Silica 7nm Silica 12nm Silica 16nm

Supplier 1

Silica Silylate

Supplier 2

Silica Silylate

Supplier 1

Silica Dimethyl Silylate

Supplier 2


No Additive

Figure 2. Suspension of active in aerosol system

after 16 seconds

Figure 3. Suspension of active in aerosol system

after 1 minute

BENTONE GEL®

IPM V No Additive BENTONE® 38 V BENTONE®

38 V BENTONE GEL®

VS-5PC V

BENTONE GEL®

VS-5PC V BENTONE GEL®

IPM V

Less Coagulation

Bentone® 38V Supplier 2

Silica Silylate

Supplier 1


Supplier 2


Figure 4. 0.28% Rheological additive in an

Antiperspirant Spray

2

Improved Color Some antiperspirants leave a white mark on dark clothing, which is often caused by the antiperspirant active. The antiperspirant

formulation can be modified to avoid this effect, but it is also desirable to select a rheological additive which does not contribute to

any additional whitening.

Black fabric was treated with antiperspirant emulsions , which contained 8% rheological additive. Visual assessment of the whitening

intensities, shown in Figure 5, correlated well with the numerical differences for the CIE L*a*b* values found by using a portable

spectrophotometer.

Figure 5. Black cotton fabric whitening of antiperspirant emulsion formulations with Aluminium Chlorohydrate

No Additive Bentone® 38V Silica 7 nm Silica 12 nm Silica 16 nm

Supplier 1 Supplier 2 Supplier 1 Supplier 2

Silica Silylate Silica Silylate Silica Dimethyl Silica Dimethyl

Silylate Silylate

Everybody is aware of the common problem of armpit (axillary) staining of shirts. This is caused by two effects, firstly the acidic

nature of the antiperspirant active Aluminium Chlorohydrate in combination with the eccrine component of sweat causes a reaction

to occur, resulting in yellowing of fabric. This is generally not visible immediately. The Aluminium Chlorohydrate is extremely

effective at blocking perspiration, so this yellowing occurs only due to repeated wear, and therefore prolonged exposure to small

levels of perspiration in combination with the Aluminium salt. (1)

The second cause is due to the iron present in formulation ingredients, including Aluminium salts themselves, as well as in the

laundry detergent and wash water. The deposition of iron onto the fabric causes an almost instant yellowing effect which can be

followed by reactions with organic acids in skin secreations producing red/brown stains.(2) Hectorite clay only contains traces of iron,

whereas Bentonite clay contains high levels of iron. Hectorite clay and Hectorite organoclays have been shown to have less

antiperspirant stain potential than Bentonite products, both as raw materials and in combination with Aluminium Chlorohydrate.

While only one representative photograph is shown, each test was run in triplicate for statistical analysis of the measured CIE L*a*b*

values.

1. Orren, L. J., (1976), 'Stain Resistant Anti-Perspirant Composition', US Pat 3934004.

2. Klepak, P. B., and Petrillo, A. N., 'The Trouble with Stains', Soap, Perfumery and Cosmetics, Vol. 68, Issue 7, p25-27, 1995.

Water +

Aluminum Chlorohydrate

3 5% Bentonite in Water 5% Hectorite in Water

Aluminum Chlorohydrate + Aluminum Chlorohydrate

A Bentone® Gel VS-5PC V Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite 2.00

(Elementis Specialties) (and) Propylene Carbonate

Xiamter pmx—0345 Fluid Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Cyclohexasiloxane 10.00

(Dow Corning)

Xiameter pmx-200 Fluid 50cs Dimethicone 2.00

(Dow Corning)

SDA 40B, 200 Alcohol 0.50

B Reach 501 Aluminum Chlorohydrate 10.00

(Summit Reheis)

C Propellant 75.50

Procedure:

1. Combine phase “A” and mix until homogenous

2. Add phase “B” to phase “A”.

3. Fill and charge with phase “C”.

KR9/085 AEROSOL AP WITH BENTONE GEL VS-5PC V

A Bentone® Gel VS-5PC V Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite 3.00


Xiamter pmx—0345 Fluid Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Cyclohexasiloxane 69.00

(Dow Corning)

Xiameter pmx-200 Fluid 50cs Dimethicone 5.00

(Dow Corning)

SDA 40B, 200 Alcohol 2.00

B Reach 501 Aluminum Chlorohydrate 20.00

(Summit Reheis)

C Fragrance 1.00

Procedure:

1. Thoroughly combine phase “A” using a Silverson homogenizer.

2. Switch to low speed propeller mixing.

3. Add phase “B” to phase “A”.

4. Add phase “C” to phase “A/B” and mix until uniform.

KR5/139 ANHYDROUS ROLL-ON ANTIPERSPIRANT

4

A Xiamter pmx—0345 Fluid Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Cyclohexasiloxane 39.70

(Dow Corning)

B Cetearyl Alcohol Cetearyl Alcohol 22.00

Lexemul 561 (Inolex) Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate 2.00

C47-057 (Sun Chemical) Titanium Dioxide 0.20

C Bentone® Gel VS-5PC V Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite 10.00


D Reach 501 Aluminum Chlorohydrate 25.00

(Summit Reheis)

E Fragrance 0.10

Procedure:

1. Thoroughly combine phase “A” using a Silverson homogenizer.

2. Switch to low speed propeller mixing.

3. Add phase B to phase “A”.

4. Add phase C to phase “A/B” and mix until uniform.

TS-289 DRY ANTIPERSPIRANT STICK

5

Solutions for Sun Care

Sunscreen systems are subject to extreme environmental conditions, yet must consistently deliver the active ingredient to

provide uniform protection. Predictable rheology and heat stability are crucial to formulators.

Bentone® clay technology offers multiple benefits for today’s sun care formulations beyond just thickening. Data has proven its benefits for both formulators and consumers, such as improved product physical stability and rheological properties, enhanced SPF protection and water resistance and modified product texture with good spreadability.

Improving product application properties is a formulation need directly related to product performance. Rheoluxe® rheology modifiers can help control the aesthetics of sunscreen emulsions while providing uniform application with good spreadability.

Benefits of Bentone Gel and Rheoluxe

The Bentone Gel® products are optimally dispersed and activated pre-

dispersions of hectorite organoclays. They are more suited for

sunscreen formulations than the organoclay powders due to ease of

use and optimal performance results. Bentone Gel® is typically

comprised of one or more organic solvents, a hectorite organoclay

(Bentone® 38 VCG or Bentone® 27 V CG) and an organic activator. A

wide range of Bentone Gel® products made from various commonly

used cosmetic oils, esters and solvents can be selected based on each

formulation need.

The Rheoluxe® family of rheology modifiers were designed specifically

for personal care applications. They provide an exceptional sensory

profile with multifunctional benefits such as transfer resistance and

increased film thickness. Rheoluxe is ideally suited for emulsion based

sun care products.

6

Improved application

After application, many emulsions begin to pool in valleys, leaving an uneven film on the skin surface. This can be eliminated by the addition of Bentone® hectorite clay products. Bentone® products exhibit shear thinning and thixotropic flow behavior. At low shear rates, the hectorite platelets are in a three-dimensional gel network structure, thus creating a high viscosity medium. With the increase in shear rate, the structure is disturbed and the platelets orientate in the direction of flow, causing a decrease in viscosity. On removal of shear, the reformation of the gel structure occurs at a reduced rate than the deformation, thus producing a system with thixotropic flow behaviour. The thixotropic flow provided by Bentone® hectorite clay products create a uniform layer of protection on the surface of the skin.

When an emulsion is applied to the sin, it will ideally create a uniform layer covering the skin surface as shown below.

For product formulation and processing, Bentone® technology helps to stabilize products, even at elevated temperatures.

For sunscreens with inorganic actives, it efficiently suspends the particulates. It provides oil and aqueous phase viscosity

building, rheology modification and thixotropic flow. Its rheological properties allow the sunscreen manufacturers to create

products giving thick and even skin coverage. Furthermore, because of the use of Bentone® rheological additives,

formulators may achieve enhanced SPF values and SPF water resistance.

7

A Bentone® Gel EUG V Octyldodecanol (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite 3.00


Tegosoft CT Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 4.00

(Evonik)

Eutanol G (BASF) Octyldodecanol 2.50

B Xiameter pmx-0345 Fluid Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Cyclohexasiloxane 10.00

(Dow Corning)

Parsol MCX (DSM Nutritional) Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnimate 5.50

Multiwax W-835 (Sonneborn) Microcrystalline Wax 3.00

Tegosoft CN (Evonik) C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 2.00

Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid Lauryl PEG/PPG-15/15 Methicone 2.00

(Dow Corning)

Parsol 1789 (DSM Nutritional) Butyl methoxybenzoylmethane 1.60

C Deionized Water Water 57.40

Glycerin 7.00

Sodium Chloride 2.00

D Preservative qs

Procedure:

1. Combine phase “A” and mix until homogenous. Warm to 40°C.

2. Add phase “B” to phase A and heat to 75°C with propeller mixing.

3. Combine phase “C” and heat to 75°C.

4. Using high shear mixing, slowly add phase “C” to combined phase “A/B”. Continue mixing for 3—5 minutes.

5. Transfer to propeller mixing and begin cooling.

6. Add phase “D” to batch.

7. Mix until uniform.

KR7/184 ORGANIC SUN LOTION WITH BENTONE GEL® EUG V

A Bentone® Gel Tn V C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Stearalkonium Hectorite 3.00


Cosmowax EM5483 PAST (Croda) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20 7.50

Eusolex 2292 (Merck) Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnimate 7.50

Cithrol GMS A/S PAST (Croda) Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate 7.00

Tegosoft CT (Evonik) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 6.00

Tegosoft TN (Evonik) C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 4.00

Eusolex 4360 (Merck) Benzophenone-3 3.00

B Deionized Water Water 58.10

Propylene Glycol 4.00

Preservative qs

Procedure:

1. Heat phase A to 75°C under silverson mixer.

2. Heat phase B to 75°C with propeller mixing.

3. Slowly add phase “B” to phase “A” with silverson mixing. Mix for 20 minutes.


5. Cool to 30°C.

KR8/005 ORGANIC SUNSCREEN WITH BENTONE GEL® TN V

8

A Bentone® Gel IHD V Isohexadecane (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite 8.00


Tegosoft OS (Evonik) Ethylhexyl Stearate 13.50

Fancol® ID-CG (Elementis Specialties) Isohexadecane 8.00

Tegosoft M (Evonik) Isopropyl Myristate 5.00

Abil EM90 (Evonik) Cetyl PEG/PPG-10-1 Dimethicone 1.80

Isolan GO33 (Evonik) Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate 1.75

B NANOX™ 200 (Elementis Specialties) Zinc Oxide 13.50

T805 (Evonik) Titanium Dioxide 2.35



Magnesium Sulfate Heptahydrate 0.75

D Butylene Glycol 3.00

Preservative qs

Procedure:

1. Combine phase “A” and mix until homogenous. Heat to 75°C.

2. Add phase “B” to phase A under silverson homogenization. Hold temperature at 75°C.

3. Combine phase “C” and heat to 75°C.

4. Add phase “D” to phase “C”.

5. Using high shear mixing, slowly add phase C/D to combined phase “A/B”. Continue mixing for 3—5 minutes.


7. Cool to 30°C.

KR8/104 INORGANIC SUNSCREEN WITH BENTONE GEL® IHD V

A Bentone® Gel TN V C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Stearalkonium Hectorite 10.00





Tego Alkanol 1618 (Evonik) Cetearyl Alcohol 1.20

Paratexin P (Azelis) Propylparaben 0.10

B NANOX™ 200 (Elementis Specialties) Zinc Oxide 5.50

T805 (Evonik) Titanium Dioxide 2.50


Bentone® LT (Elementis Specialties) Hectorite (and) Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.24

D Propylene Glycol 4.00

Paratexin M (Azelis) Methylparaben 0.10

Phenoxyethanol 1.00

Procedure:

1. Combine phase “A” and mix until homogenous. Heat to 75°C.

2. Add phase “B” to phase “A” under silverson homogenization. Hold temperature at 75°C.

3. Combine phase “C” and heat to 75°C. Mix until Bentone LT is completely dispersed.

4. Add phase “D” to phase “C”.

5. Using high shear mixing, slowly add phase “C/D” to combined phase “A/B”. Continue mixing for 3—5 minutes.


7. Cool to 30°C.

KR8/117 INORGANIC SUN LOTION WITH BENTONE GEL® TN V

10

KR9/096 ORGANIC SUNSCREEN WITH BENTONE GEL® PTIS V

A Bentone® Gel PTIS V Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate (and) Disteardimonium 3.00

(Elementis Specialties) Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate

Cosmowax EM5483 PAST (Croda) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20 7.50

Eusolex 2292 (Merck) Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnimate (and) BHT 7.50




Eusolext 4360 (Merck) Benzophenone-3 3.00



Preservative qs

Procedure:

1. Combine phase “A” and heat to 75°C.

2. Combine phase “B” and heat to 75°C.

3. Using silverson, slowly add phase B to phase “A”. Continue mixing for 3—5 minutes.


5. Cool to 30°C.

A KF-6038 (Shin Etsu) Lauryl PEG-9 Polymethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone 3.00

SPD-T5 (Shin Etsu) Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) 20.00

Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone

(and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) Stearic Acid

SPD-Z5 (Shin Etsu) Zinc Oxide (and) Cyclopentasiloxane (and) 10.00

Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone

(and) Triethoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Hexyl

Dimethicone

FANCOL® Abyshea (Elementis Specialties) Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil (and) Butyrospermum Parkii 2.00

(Shea Butter) Extract

Beeswax Cera Alba (Beeswax) 1.00

Finsolv TN (Innospec) C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 8.00


Sodium Chloride Sodium Chloride 0.50

Euxyl K701 (Schulke & Mayr) Phenoxyethanol (and) Benzoic Acid (and) Dehydroacetic 1.00

Acid (and) Ethylhexylglycerin

Glycerin Glycerin 3.00

C Rheoluxe® 8015 (Elementis Specialties) PEG/PPG-450/50 Trimthylolpropane Dodecyl Ether 1.50

Procedure:

1. Heat phase A ingredients to 60°C with propeller mixing.

2. Combine phase B ingredients and mix until uniform. Heat phase B to 60°C,

3. Very slowly, add phase B to phase A with moderate speed propeller mixing.

4. Begin cooling. Add phase C to main batch with propeller mixing.

5. Cool to room temperature under slow sweep mixing.

Viscosity: RV T-E @ 20rpm: 28,000cps

DAILY UV PROTECTING LOTION S-1000-01

Meeting and making claims: Needs vs Elementis Specialties’ Benefits Light feeling, non-greasy sensorial

Bentone® hydrophilic and organophilic clays

Rheoluxe® associative thickeners

Fancor® Abyssinian Oil

Deep conditioning of hair to protect and restore healthy attributes

Meadowquat® HG

Fancorsil® LIM

Fancor® Abyssinian Oil

Perfuming - long lasting fragrance

Meadowquat® HG

Protection of color

Meadowquat® HG

Fancorsil® LIM

11

Hair Care Technology

Hair is an important part of personal appearance, helping to define style and attractiveness. The processes used to create

hair styles are often damaging leading to split ends, frizzy hair and breakage. Harsh surfactants strip away essential lipids,

heat can melt the internal structure, straightening, bleaching and perming weakens hair and the mechanical force of

brushing can lift the cuticle. Protective and repairative products are necessary to keep hair healthy.

Many claims are being made to demonstrate the effectiveness of hair care products. These include aspects like

manageability of the hair, protection, strengthening of the hair fibers and anti-breaking properties. Furthermore a visible

benefit like the enhancement of the natural shine of the hair is important to achieve customer satisfaction. Elementis

offers products proven to improve the overall health and appearance of the hair.

Meeting and making claims: Needs vs Elementis Specialties’ Benefits

12

Hair Manageability

Most conditioning products claim to increase the manageability

and combability of the hair due to lubrication and conditioning

effect of the hair fibers. Improving the combability of the hair is

perceived as the hair being in better condition. Better combability

decreases the mechanical damage on the hair due to reduced

combability force needed to untangle the hair, therefore, the

combability of hair after treatment with conditioning agents

provides an indicator if the effectiveness of the treatment is

sufficient.

To comb untreated Mulatto hair it is necessary to use almost 2000

gmf frictional force due to its kinky structure. FANCOR®

Abyssinian Oil effectively increased the combability by reducing

the needed force down to 1.5 % of the force initially needed for

untreated Mulatto Hair.

Single bleached Caucasian Hair, not treated with FANCOR®

Abyssinian Oil, offers an average of needed frictional force for

combing between 100 - 120 gmf declared by TRI Princeton based

on historical data. Compared to this data TRI Princeton treated

Caucasian Hair with FANCOR® Abyssinian Oil was able to reduce

the needed force down to 12 gmf, a reduction of 88 %.

Treatment of both Mulatto and Caucasian Hair with FANCOR®

Abyssinian Oil has a significant positive effect for conditioning and

a better manageability of the hair.

Hair Shine The shine of the hair is a very highly appreciated attribute of healthy-looking hair and is often a claim of hair care products.

FANCOR® Abyssinian Oil is a natural shine enhancer. It can be used as a natural replacement to synthetic oils like silicones in Hair

Care products where shine and luster is needed. Shine can be quantified by the intensity of light reflected from a curved hair

surface. A narrow distribution of light reflection indicates a higher intensity of shine. The SAMBA device by Bossa Nova was used to

quantify the shine enhancement.

Hair Repair and Reconstruction FANCORSIL® LIM facilitates the repair of the hair fiber’s outer surface to achieve natural realignment of the cuticular plates.

When treated with a solution of 5% FANCORSIL® LIM –1, cuticle repair is clearly evident.

Control: damaged hair fiber Test: damaged hair fiber treated with LIM-1

FANCORSIL® LIM has also been shown to realign

the internal hair structure.

Because of it’s ability to penetrate the hair fiber, LIM is capable of improving hair strength. The effect was measured in all

types of hair treatments including shampoos, conditioning treatments, hair relaxers and hair color. In each case, the

addition of FANCORSIL® LIM improved the strength of the hair fiber, significantly increasing the force needed to break the

hair. When compared to Dimethicone Copolyol (DMC), the strength of unprocessed hair was improved by 28%.

13

14

Improved Hair Color Durability MEADOWQUAT® HG-70, a mild diamido-lipid-rich quaternium nitrogen ingredient for personal care products, is very effective not

only in the conditioning process but also in its ability to sustain hair color and prevent wash-out. MEADOWQUAT® HG-70 is derived

from a natural source and is functionally substantive, biodegradable, and stable in hydrogen peroxide (hair color developers) and

sodium hydroxide (relaxers). When incorporated into hair color at a level of 2% to 3%, MEADOWQUAT® HG-70 enhances color

intensity and significantly improves durability.

Prevention of Damage When applied to hair at a level as low as 1%, MEADOWQUAT® HG-70 prevents damage and repairs damaged hair. With its

long-chain fatty acids and unique diamido configuration, MEADOWQUAT® HG-70 has the ability to repair hair that has been

severely damaged by extreme heat and harsh chemicals. The operative factors responsible for this product’s superior

conditioning abilities are the unsaturated fatty acids that form the backbone of this material.

Virgin brown hair tresses were subject to heat damage by passing a pressing comb over each tress 80 times at 110°C.

Tresses were treated with a solution of 1% MEADOWQUAT® HG-70 and blotted dry before the hot comb treatment. In the

photos below, it can be seen that the hair treated with MEADOWQUAT® HG-70 prevents damage.

Hair color durability after 20 washings

5

A Deionized Water Water 55.55

Dissolvine Na2 (Akzo Nobel) Disodium EDTA 0.10

Panthenol 0.10

B Standapol ES-2 (BASF) Sodium Laureth Sulfate 23.00

Tegobetaine F50 (Evonik) Cocamidopropyl Betaine 7.50

Plantacare 818 (BASF) Coco-Glucoside 5.00

Ninol M10 (Stepan) Cocamide MIPA 1.50

FANCORSIL® LIM-1 (Elementis Specialties) Dimethicone PEG-8 Meadowfoamate 2.00

Crothix (Croda) PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate 1.00

Euperlan PK4000 (BASF) Glycol Distearate (and) Laureth-4 (and) 2.00

Cocamidopropyl Betaine

C MEADOWQUAT® HG-70 PEG-2 Dimeadowfoamamidoethylmonium Methosulfate 2.00

(Elementis Specialties)

D Troycare BC04 (Troy Corp) Methylchloroisothiazolinone (and) 0.05

Methylisothiazolinone

Fresh Floral Honeydew Fragrance Fragrance 0.20

Procedure:

1. Combine phase “A” ingredients and heat to 80°C with propeller mixing.

2. Add phase “B” ingredients to to phase “A” one at a timewith propeller mixing.

3. Cool to 40°C with mixing.

4. Add phase “C” to batch

5. Add phase D to batch and cool to ambient temperature

Viscosity: RV #5 @ 50rpm 3,000—5,000cps pH: 4.8—5.2

H-1008-01 COLOR CARE SHAMPOO

H-1003-01 HAIR GLOSSING SERUM A FANCORSIL® A (Elementis Specialties) Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethicone 57.00

Silsoft 034 (Momentive Silicones) Caprylyl Methicone 17.00

FANCOR® Abyssinian Oil Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil 2.00


Xiameter-0245 Fluid (Dow Corning) Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Cyclohexasiloxane 23.00

Neo Heliopan AV (Symrise) Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnimate 1.00

Procedure:

1. Combine phase “A” ingredients and mix well after each addition.

2. Package as desired.

15

6


Butylene Glycol 2.50

Spectrastat (Inolex) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Caprylhydroxamic Acid (and) 0.90

Glycerin

Calcium Pantothenate (BASF) 0.20

B Incroquat Behenyl TMS PA (Croda) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Behentrimonium Methosulfate 5.00



Isopropyl Palmitate 1.00

Cetearyl Alcohol (Croda) 1.50

FANCORSIL® LIM-2 (Elementis Specialties) Dimethicone Meadowfoamate 1.00

Xiameter-0245 Fluid (Dow Corning) Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Cyclohexasiloxane 2.00

C MEADOWQUAT® HG-70 PEG-2 Dimeadowfoamamidoethylmonium 1.00

(Elementis Specialties) Methosulfate

Procedure:


2. Heat phase “B” to 80°C and add to phase “A” with propeller mixing.


4. Add phase “C” to batch.

5. Cool to 30°C. Package as desired. Viscosity: RV T-D @ 20 rpm 10,500—12,500cps pH: 5.8—6.2

H-1007-01 COLOR CARE DAILY CONDITIONER

A FANCOL® ID-CG (Elementis Specialties) Isododecane 84.80

FANCORSIL® A (Elementis Specialties) Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethicone 10.00

Anti-Aging Hair Complex Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil (and) Hydrogenated 4.00

(Elementis Specialties) Polyisobutene (and) PEG-2

Dimeadowfoamamidoethylmonium Methosulfate

(and) Oleas Europaea (Olive) Oil Unsaponifiables

Neo Heliopan AV (Symrise) Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnimate 1.00

Fresh Floral Honeydew Fragrance Fragrance 0.20

Procedure:

1. Combine phase “A” ingredients and mix well after each addition

2. Package as desired.

H-1004-01 NOURISHING HAIR OIL

16


Kerabase (Inolex) Brassica Alcohol (and) Brassicamidopropyl 8.00

Dimethylamine (and) Polyester-11 (and)

Aspartic Acid (and) EDTA

Panthenol (BASF) 0.50

B FANCOL ®POLYISO ®250-CG Hydrogenated Polyisobutene 2.00






C Spectrastat (Inolex) Caprylhydroxamic Acid (and) 1.00

Caprylyl Glycol (and) Glycerin

FANCORSIL® LIM-2 Dimethiconol Meadowfoamate 1.00

Procedure:

1. Combine phase “A” ingredients and mix with moderate speed propeller mixing. Heat to 80-85°C and hold for 10-15 minutes with mixing. Keep vessel covered.

2. Combine phase “B” and add to phase “A” with propeller mixing.

3. Begin cooling.

4. At 60°C, add phase “C” ingredients to batch.

5. Cool to 30°C with moderate speed propeller mixing.

H-1002-01 ANTI-AGING CONDITIONER


Varisoft BT-85 (Evonik) Behentrimonium Chloride 1.50





FANCORSIL® LIM-1 Dimehticone PEG-8 Meadowfoamate 1.00

Panthenol (BASF) 0.10

B Troycare BD55 (Troy Corp) DMDM Hydantoin 0.30

Troycare FL10 (Troy Corp) Iodoopropynyl Butylcarbamate 0.10

Procedure:


2. Cool to 40°C with continued mixing.

3. Add phase B to phase “A” with moderate speed propeller mixing,.

4. Cool to ambient Temperature. Viscosity: RV #3 @ 20rpm 1,000—1,500cps pH: 4.3—4.7

H-1006-01 LEAVE-IN CONDITIONER WITH HEAT PROTECTION

18


Calcium Pantothenate (BASF) 0.20

Glycerin 2.00

Varisoft BT85 (Evonik) Behentrimonium Chloride 2.25

B Incroquat Behenyl TMS PA (Croda) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Behentrimonium Methosulfate 3.00

Polawax NF (Croda) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Polysorbate 60 1.00






Botanisil DM-90 (Botanigenics) Dimethicone 1.00

FANCORSIL® LIM-2 (Elementis Specialties) Dimethiconol Meadowfoamate 1.00

Silsoft 034 (Momentive Silicones) Caprylyl Methicone 2.00

C Troycare BD55 (Troy Corp) DMDM Hydantoin 0.30

Troycare FL10 (Troy Corp) Iodoopropynyl Butylcarbamate 0.10

Procedure:


2. Heat phase “B” to 80°C and add to phase “A” with propeller mixing.


4. Add phase “C” to batch.

5. Cool to 30°C. Package as desired. Viscosity: RV T-E @ 20 rpm 50,000—60,000cps pH: 4.6—5.0

H-1005-01 RESTORATIVE HAIR MASK

The category of color cosmetics covers a wide range of product types, anything that contains pigment, but regardless the form, they

must deliver uniform color, apply easily and remain stable under various conditions.

Bentone Gel® systems provide a stable matrix to suspend pigments, improve stability and flow properties of cosmetics. The solvent

system in Bentone Gels® provide emolliency, aid in pigment wetting, may provide gloss and improved aesthetics. A variety of Ben-

tone Gel® systems are available to meet your formulation needs.

Natural emollients such as Fancor Abyssinian Oil® and Fancor ® Meadowfoam Seed Oil provide improved skin feel, enhanced pig-

ment wetting and imparts a natural luster to the skin.

Benefits of Bentone Gel®

Suspension of pigments

Improves stability and viscosity

Improves application

Thermostable viscosity control

Enhances feel properties

Color Cosmetics Technologies

19

Pigment Dispersion BENTONE GEL® PTIS V offers a lubricating emollient effect, improved pigment dispersion and improved coverage

Pigment Suspension Titanium dioxide (TiO2) obtained from Sun Chemicals was suspended in Abyssinian oil, Abyssinian oil/Castor oil 50:50 blend and Cas-

tor oil at a concentration of 30% (w/w). The resultant appearance of the pigment dispersion can be observed below.

The results of the viscosity studies help explain the improved dispersion of

(TiO2) in the Abyssinian oil compared to castor oil. As can be seen in the follow-

ing chart and graph, and as expected the castor oil had a higher initial viscosity

than did Abyssinian oil and in both cases the addition of the pigment increased

the viscosity of the system. However, in the case of castor oil the viscosity con-

tinued to increase as the dispersion sat at room temperature for 24 hours in

contrast to the Abyssinian oil dispersion which decreased in viscosity over the

same time period. This decrease in viscosity for the Abyssinian oil dispersion

reflects the improved dispersion properties which generates a stable, small

particle size, even distribution of pigment.

Abyssinian oil Abyssinian/ Castor oil

Castor 50:50 blend

Pigment dispersion

without Bentone Gel

Pigment dispersion with

Bentone Gel PTIS V

20



Glycerin 2.00

B BENTONE GEL® ABO V (Elementis Specialties) Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil (and) Stearalkonium 6.45

Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate

Imwittor 600 (Sasol) Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate 3.00

Neo Heliopan Type AV Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 7.50

Vitamin E Acetate Tocpheryl Acetate 0.10

AFRICAN HYDRATION COMPLEX Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil (and) Crambe 3.00

(Elementis Specialties) Abyssinica Seed Oil, (and) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea

Butter) (and) Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil Unsaponifiables

(and) Lecithin

Wickenol 151 (Alzo) Isononyl Isononanoate 4.50

Crodamol ISNP-LQ (Croda) Isostearyl Neopentanoate 4.50

C FANCOR® ABYSSINIAN OIL Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil 6.00


Unipure Black LC989 (Sensient) Iron Oxides 0.75

Unipure Red LC381 (Sensient) Iron Oxides 1.40

Unipure Yellow LC182 (Sensient) Iron Oxides 2.35

Unipure White (Sensient) Iron Oxides 2.50

D Tyrostat (Lucas Meyer) Rumex Occidentalis Extract 1.00

Exo-T (Lucas Meyer) Butylene Glycol (and) Vibrio Alginolyticus Ferment Filtrate 2.00

Euxyl K701 (Shulke & Mayr) Phenoxyethanol (and) Benzoic Acid (and) 1.00

Dehydroacetic Acid (and) Ethylhexylglycerin

Procedure:

1. Premix Part A and Part B separately and heat to each 80-85°C.

2. Add Part A into Part B with dispermat for 10 minutes to form the emulsion.

3. Premix Part C and slowly add into Part A & B while cooling to 50°C-55°C.

4. Transfer to Silverson Homogenizer for 1-3 minus, until the pigments fully dispersed.

5. Transfer to a propeller mixer and cool down to below 40°C.

6. Add Part D ingredients to the batch and mix well.

Viscosity: 13,000cps (RV Spindle T-E, 20 rpm, 30s, 22oC)

C-1001-01 CC CREAM MULTIFUNCTIONAL HYDRATOR

21

LIGHT MOISTURIZING BB CREAM WITH SPF 30++ A BENTONE GEL® VS-5 PC V Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Disteardimonium Hedtorite 5.60


THIXCIN® R (Elementis Specialties) Trihydroxystearin 1.50

Abil EM90 (Evonik) Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone 3.50

KF6017 (Shin Etsu) PEG-10 Dimethicone 2.00

FANCOL® POLYISO® 275 CG Hydrogenated Polyisobutene 1.50


ANTI-AGING SKIN COMPLEX Meadowfoam Estolide (and) Meadowfoam Delta-Lactone 3.00

(Elementis Specialties) (and) Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil (and) Carthamus

Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil (and) Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil

Unsaponifiables (and) Beta-Sitosterol

FANCOR® ABYSSINIAN OIL (Elementis Specialties) Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil 3.00

Beeswax (Strahl & Pitsch) 1.00

Wickenol 151 (Alzo Inc) Isononyl Isononanoate 4.50

Crodamol ISNP-LQ (Croda) Isostearyl Neopentanoate 4.50


NANOX 200 (Elementis Specialties) Zinc Oxide 1.65

B Water 37.23

Glycerin 3.00

Tween 20 (Croda) Polysorbate 20 2.00

Butylene Glycol 3.00


C TNP50T7 (Kobo) C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) 10.00

Alumina (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Methicone 6.00

FAS70USI-E (Kobo) Titanium Dioxide (and) Cyclopentasiloxane (and)

PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane

(and) Tocopherol Acetate

FAS55ERSI-E (Kobo) Iron Oxides [C.I. 77491] (and) Cyclopentasiloxane (and) 0.81



FAS50EYSI-E (Kobo) Iron Oxides [C.I. 77492] (and) Cyclopentasiloxane (and) 3.26



FAS60EBSI-E (Kobo) Iron Oxides [C.I. 77499] (and) Cyclopentasiloxane (and) 0.10



D Preservative qs

Procedure:

1. Premix Part A and Part B separately and heat to each 75°C.

2. Add Part B into Part A with higher share for 10-15 minutes.

3. Premix Part C and slowly add into Part A & B and cool down to 50°C-55°C.

4. Transfer to Silverson Homogenizer for 1-3 minus, until the pigments fully dispersed

5. Transfer to a propeller mixer and cool down to below 40°C.

6. Add Part D to the batch and mix well.

Viscosity: 18300 cps (RV Spindle #6, 20 rpm, 30s, 22oC)

BY 3129-92

22

A FANCOL® ID-CG (Elementis Specialties) Isododecane 43.80

BENTONE GEL® ISD V (Elementis Specialties) Isododecane (and) Disteardimonium Chloride (and) 10.00

Propylene Carbonate

Hydrogenated Coco Glycerides 10.00

Ozokerite 8.00

Carnauba Wax 5.00

Beeswax 2.00

Propylparaben 0.20

B SunPrizma Concord Crush (Sun Chemical) Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Iron Oxide 10.00

Timiron Pearl Flake (EMD) Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide 5.00

Nylon-12 1.00

C Rheoluxe® 880 (Elementis Specialties) Bis-C16-20 Isoalkoxy TMHDI/PEG-90 Copolymer 5.00

Procedure:

1. Combine Phase A and heat to 75-80°C.

2. Mix Phase A togther using a Silverson Homogeniser.

3. Add Phase B and continue to mix for 15 minutes.

4. Transfer product to a stirrer.

5. Add Phase C at 1000rpm.

6. Increase speed to 2000rpm and mix for 10 minutes.

7. Pour off and allow to cool.

C-2000-02

C-1000-01 MOISTURIZING CREAM LIPSTICK

OIL BASED EYE SHADOW

A Red 6 Lake CI 15850:2 Water 6.00



Emcon® CO (Elementis Specialties) Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil 22.85

Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax (Koster Keunen) 4.00

Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax (Koster Keunen) 6.30

Cera Alba (Beeswax) Strahl & Pitsch 2.00

Multiwax 180-W (Sonneborn) Microcrystalline Wax 5.60


BENTONE GEL® TN-V (Elementis Specialties) C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Stearalkonium Hectorite 10.00

(and) Propylene Carbonate

B Talc (US Cosmetics) 5.00

Mica S-12 (Kobo) 2.00

Meadowestolide® (Elementis Specialties) Meadowfoam Estolide 3.00

Euxyl K701 (Schulke & Mayr) Phenoxyethanol (and) Benzoic Acid (and) 0.50

Dehydroacetic Acid (and) Ethylhexylglycerin

Procedure:

1. Premix Red 6 Lake with FANCOR® Abyssinian Oil until pigment is completely wetted and dispersed with no agglomerations.

2. Heat Phase B to 85°C and mix until homogeneous.

3. At 85°C combine pigment premix Phase A and Phase B until thoroughly uniform.

4. Cool to 65°C and fill into molds or appropriate packaging.

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24

KR9/135B

A Water 52.75

BENTONE® LT (Elementis Specialties) Hectorite (and) Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.75

FANCORSIL® LIM-1 (Elementis Specialties) Dimethicone PEG-8 Meadowfoamate 3.00

B Luviskol VA64 (BASF) VP/VA Copolymer 8.00

Triethanolamine Triethanolamine 1.00

Preservative qs

C FANCOL® POLYISO® 275-CG Hydrogentated Polyisobutene 2.00


Sunchroma Black Iron Oxide (Sun Chemicals) Irox Oxides 6.00

Copernicia (Carnauba) Wax (Koster Keunen) 5.00

Beeswax (Azelis) 5.00

Cutina MD (BASF) Glyceryl Stearate 5.00

Snow White Pet USP (Calumet) Petrolatum 4.00

Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax (Koster Keunen) 3.00

Stearic Acid 2.00

Tween 20 (Croda) Polysorbate 20 2.50

Procedure:

1. Premix Red 6 Lake with FANCOR® Abyssinian Oil until pigment is completely wetted and dispersed with no agglomerations.

2. Heat Phase B to 85°C and mix until homogeneous.

3. At 85°C combine pigment premix Phase A and Phase B until thoroughly uniform.

4. Cool to 65°C and fill into molds or appropriate packaging.

A BENTONE GEL® ABO V (Elementis Specialties) Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil (and) Stearalkonium 3.50

Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate

MEADOWESTOLIDE® (Elementis Specialties) Meadowfoam Estolide 3.00

Snow White Pet (Calumet) Petrolatum 12.90

Colorona Red Brown (EMD) Mica (and) Iron Oxides (and) Titanium Dioxide 7.50

Syncrowax HGLC (Croda) C18-36 Acid Triglyceride 2.00

Iron Oxide Yellow Iron Oxides 0.30

Preservative qs

B FANCOR® Abyssinian Oil Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil 64.60


Red 6 Lake (Sun Chemicals) 0.60

Red 7 Lake (Sun Chemicals) 0.60

Procedure:

1. Heat Phase A to 85°C and mix. 2. Add premixed Phase B and mix.

3. Cool to 55°C and fill.

LONG WEAR MASCARA KR10/22

LIP GLOSS

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For more details please contact:

AMERICAS Elementis Specialties

469 Old Trenton Road

East Windsor

New Jersey 08512

Tel: +1.609.443 2500

Fax: +1.609.443.2446

EUROPE Elementis GmbH

Stolberger Strasse 370

50933 Cologne

Germany

Tel: +49.221.2923.2000

Fax: +49.221.2923.2011

The information in this publication is, to the best of our knowledge, true and accurate, but since the conditions of use are beyond our control, no warranty is given or to be implied in respect of such information. In every case, caution must be exercised to avoid violation or infringement of statutory obligations and any rights belonging to a third party. We are, at all time, willing to study customers’ specific outlets involving our products in order to enable their most effective use.

©Copyright 2015, Elementis Specialties, Inc.

All rights reserved.

Copying and/or downloading of this document or information therein for republication is not allowed unless prior written agreement is obtained from Elementis Specialties, Inc.

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