Author: Caroline Little

Course: Communication Planning

ID520B Fall 2007

Instructor: Peter Laundy

IIT Institute of Design

COMMUNICATION BRAND ANALYSIS

“More is not better.”

- Yvon Chouinard,

moutaineer, blacksmith, Patagonia founder

1.1 Brand origins1.2 Brand meaning as it has changed through the years1.3 Current brand differentiation2.1 Current brand portfolio

2.2 Brand name and visual treatment3.1 Brand voice and identity elements

4.1 Communication assets5.1 Key brand communication decisions5.2 Detailed analysis of a communication

BRAND

BRAND IDENTITY

BRAND MEANING

1.1 brandorigins

A committment to the earth...In 1972, Chouinard changed the way his equipment company did business when he discontinued the use of steel pitons, once the company’s bread and butter. After realizing the environmental damage caused to the rock by the constant hammering in of pitons, Chouinard developed aluminum chocks as a replacement product.

Out of this intiative came the idea of “clean climbing,” a concept which has affected the development of the Patagonia brand ever since.

Forged out of function...The Patagonia brand, founded in 1973, grew out of Yvon Chouinard’s already successful mountain climbing equipment business.

The man, the brand...Chouinard is a living legend in the climbing community. Following in the footsteps of naturalists like John Muir, Chouinard made the raw (and dangerous) beauty of nature his playground, rock climbing, mountaineering, and surfing in the days before extreme sports had a name. The founder’s connection with nature still informs Patagonia’s brand essence today.

The Brand Chouinard

The name Patagonia was chosen for because it references the unknown, the wild, a romantic sense of freedom in nature....

a place “un-mapped”

1.2 brandmeaningasithaschangedovertheyears

REASONFORBEING

VALUEPROPOSITION

ASSOCIATIONS

AUDIENCE

Establish clothing company as separate entity

“Hand forged” clothing

Preservation activists like John Muir

Mountaineers looking for functional, good-looking gear

1973-1980Move Beyond Equipment

1980-1988Focus on Fabrics

Innovate better fabrics to differentiate brand from other outdoor companies

Functional fabrics mean better gear

Fleece, R+D, layering

Outdoor enthusiasts, “fashion” consumers

Era 1...Climbers began asking to purchase clothing after noticing Chouinard wearing colorful and tough-wearing rugby shirts from England on his expeditions. Chouinard Equipment began selling clothing, often imported from abroad, to supplement income from the equipment business. When the clothing line became popular, the Patagonia clothing brand was established as a separate company to protect the image of their existing equipment company and branch out to a larger consumer base.

Era 2...Chouinard himself said: “Function always dictates the form and the perfect form is the result of a perfectly solved functional need.” In the 1980’s Patgonia became a leader in the search for new, innovative fabrics for outdoor clothing to supplant the moisture-absorbing layers of cotton, wool and down typically favored by the mountaineering community. While this extensive R+D was not unnoticed by the outdoor community, the bright colors of Patagonia clothing also created a fashion fad and led to a rise in popularity of the company.

1988-1998Environmental Leadership

1998-?“Patagucci”

Sell clothing with an environmental promise

Fleece that looks as good roaming the malls as it does roaming the trails

Granola-chic, eco-tourism, college campuses, yoga

Urbanites longing for nature, extreme athletes

Era 3...As is noted in the story of the steel pitons, very early on the founders of Patagonia realized the impact of humans on the environment. The company decided to affect change within and outside the organization by initiating their first national environmental campaign in 1988. This built upon a promise made in 1986 to devote 10% of profits to environmental causes each year. “Living Green” became a hall-mark of Patagonia culture long before Al Gore made it cool.

Era 4...The nick-name “Patagucci” references the trend towards urbanites who wear Patagonia clothing because they aspire for adventure but don’t actually have the time to leave the city. While current brand adveristing attempts to appeal to extreme users, in reality much of Patagonia gear is purchased and used in urban areas, specifically wealthy locations like Georgetown in DC or Lincoln Park in Chicago. The Patagonia brand for many consumers is synonymous with expensive gear that while designed for extreme outdoor pursuits, works equally as well while walking the dog or commuting.

Create a company that is a tool for social change

Products that are good for you and the enivronment

Granola, tree-huggers, birkenstocks, nalgene bottles

Environmentalists, neo-hippies, outdoor enthusiasts and athletes

1.3 currentbranddifferentiation

Patagonia has effectively differentiated itself from other outdoor gear companies as a leader in the movement for environmental and social change. The strong brand message of Chouinard, an original mountain man, also plays into Patagonia’s distinct brand essence. As technology surrounding R+D has leveled the playing field for all brands, Patagonia stands out as equally committed to the environment and to those adventurers who play (leaving only footprints, of course) in the great outdoors.

The North Face...may be considered Patagonia’s most serious brand competition as both companies attempt to appeal to serious outdoor adventurers and were founded in California during the golden era of rock climbing. The North Face, however, is sold in nationwide sporting goods chains (including 3,500 worldwide retail locations), giving it more mass appeal than the earthier, more elite Patagonia. Here in Chicago, The North Face has a flagship store on touristy Michigan Avenue, while Patagonia has a much smaller store in an old factory building in the tony Lincoln Park neighborhood.

Arc’teryx ...is a relative newcomer to the outdoor gear market and has used its realative obscurity to its advantage, marketing itself as the only real brand for serious outdoor adventurers. Radical innovation of products seemingly already perfected by other companies means the brand is shaking up the marketplace.

Marmot ...is the quietest of the three brands. Their imagery and graphics are subtle and subdued in color, and Marmot doesn’t have the retail presence of The North Face or the buzz factor of Arc’teryx.

Key Competitors:

ASPIRATION

PERSONA

REASON

TOBELIEVE

RELATIONSHIP

Durable, functional clothing created out of respect for the environment

Self-reliant, socially responsible, “granola-y”

Committed environmental track record

Uncle that never seems to slow down or grow old

Performance wear for everyone

Hip, current, in-the-know

A major player in the wilderness chic movement; jackets provoked muggings and counterfeiting

Everybody’s favorite cousin

Highest qualityperformance products

Grounded, authentic

One of first companies to use Goretex

Laid-back and low-key climbing buddy

Radical innovation for serious athletes

Hard core, committed

Award winning designs in an indstury that was considered “done”

Intense and intimidating teacher

2.1 currentbrandportfolio

Patagonia has very few true sub-brands because the original brand name is so strong. It is not suprising that the few sub-brands that do exist are actually proprietary names for fabrics developed by Patagonia and used in their gear.

Chouinard created Patagonia out of a need for more functional climbing clothing than the thrift store sweats and dress khakis that climbers relied on at that time. As other companies sprang up to compete with the Patagonia brand, Chouinard differentiated his company by innovating better fabrics. These fabrics, some developed over 20 years ago, are still in use today.

Synchilla Fleece...The first alternative to natural fiber Patagonia introduced to the marketplace.

Regulator Insulation...Regulator, developed as a more advanced fleece than the original Synchilla, comes in different levels of insulation as part of a system of core warmth for outdoor sports.

H2No Storm Waterproof Barrier...Proprietary laminates and coatings that provide complete water- and wind-proofing protection.

Capilene Performance Baselayers... One of the original Patagonia products, baselayers feature odor control and are completely recyclable. Also available in different weights depending on activity and user needs.

Key Brand Names

The Retail Experience

Patagonia has 21 retail stores... located throughout the country. In keeping with the brand promise of environmentalism, these stores are typically located in urban centers (granted wealthy ones), not in suburban strip malls.

Since all stores are designed to accomodate the space in which they are located, rather than built from scratch, they have a rustic appearance befitting the brand’s earthy origins. Gear is displayed in a very straightforward and organized way with no pretension or flash.

Unique Programs that Support the Brand

Environmentally Friendly E-Fiber...Patagonia gives special status to products created with materials that help protect the environment. Such materials include organic cotton and wool, hemp, and recycled polyester. Products made of e-fiber are marked in the catalog with special symbol:

Common Threads Recycling Program...Program launched in 2005 that allows customers to return specific old or worn-out Patagonia products to be recyled into new Patagonia garments. Products eligable for recycling include Capilene baselayers, fleece, and organic cotton t-shirts. Products that can be recycled through this program are marked in the catalog with special symbol:

The Cleanest Line...Blog for Patagonia employees, customers, and fans that provides a forum for discussion about the functionality and performance of Patagonia productsand publicizes environmental issues and concerns.

2.2 brandnamesandvisualtreatment

BRANDNAME

BRANDNAMEVISUALTREATMENT

PatagoniaDenotation...The Patagonia name references a particular region in Argentina famous for its mountain “spires.” Chouinard traveled to Patagonia before founding his clothing company, a trip that no doubt influenced his choice of moniker.

Connotation...While actually a physical place, the name Patagonia also suggests an untamed wildness that transcends any one singular experience. In this way the brand name is aspirational for users seeking to interact with wild nature.

Denotation...The spires behind the original Patagonia logo represent the famous mountain range in Argentina from which the brand name was taken. Connotation...The curved, lower case letters of the Patagonia logotype suggest the old travel stamps and have an almost wistful, romantic feeling. This old style typeface serves to ground the nature of brand, and serves as a contrast to the heavily technical fabrics. Currently the Patagonia logo is also shown just as a logotype. This clean design reflects the brand’s move towards more streamlined, fashion-forward clothing for the urban consumer.

Synchilla

Combination name...Synthetic + Chincilla

(+)...

fun to say

name sounds soft and furry (appropriate for a fleece product)

•

•

CapileneCombination name...Capillary + Polypropolene

(-)...

connection capillary is not obvious or intuitive

name feels very technical is comparison to overall brand experience

•

•

(+)...

uses same font as Patagonia brand name (Belwe)

provides firm connection to Patagonia line appropriate for a proprietary product

•

•

(-)...

font has no connection to rest of brand line

treatment of letters looks amateur and in total opposition to technial name

•

•

3.1 brandvoiceandvisualelements

Build the best product, do no unnecessary harm, use business to inspire and implement solutions to the environmental crisis.

- Patagonia mission statement

Authentic...Patagonia continues to deliver on their environmental brand promise, and employs athletes to test their clothing in the field to improve design and functionality. The brand voice has remained constant over the years, reinforcing the company’s core values and mission.

Educated...The company is known for its environmental essays included in the catalog. The Patagonia brand talks at a higher level than many of its competitiors about issues and places beyond the scope of the majority of mass consumers.

Committed...Through its social activism and environmental awareness, Patagonia consistently acts to reduce the company’s ecological footprint while simultaneously improving the overall quality of their goods.

Brand Voice:

3.1 brandvoiceandvisualelements,continued

Environmental imagery...The beauty and sometimes harshness of nature is the focus of almost all Patagonia imagery. People in photographs are typically actors on the of vast stage of nature, making humanity seem very small and even insignificant in comparison. People are also often shown alone, as if to further emphasize the brand’s aspirational connection between humans and the natural environment.Catalog pages also use a similar technique with a piece of clothing shown in contrast to a photograph. The juxtaposition is less to suggest a direct correlation (i.e. this jacket is ideal for cold weather), than to consistently reinforce Patagonia’s connection to the environment.

Text...Patagonia catalogs are known for featuring essays about environmental issues, either as separate entites or in conjunction with an image in a spread. The essays differentiate Patagonia from most other catalogs which typically view print marketing solely in terms of selling products. With the inclusion of so much informational text, Patagonia is also selling their brand mission and appealing to those customers who choose Patagonia because they aspire to help protect the environment.

Visual Elements:

Gridded layouts...On both the website and catalog, images and text are placed within a grid of 2 or 3 columns.The overall effect is ordered, clean, and places emphasis on the clothes themselves rather than the models wearing them.

Earth tone colors...Although Patagonia does occasionally use bright colors, most of the brand messaging text and primary colors of garments are based on natural, or earth tone hues.

Even the interior of stores have an earthy quality, and use wood, brick, and other natural materials for construction.

Use of white space...Patagonia’s strong images play off a simplified white background. This sophisticated combination is appropriate for the brand’s environmental message of simplicity and emphasizes the clothing itself.

4.1 communicationassets

Key Communication Assets:

Rich customer interaction potential...Patagonia’s signature retail stores embody the brand personality. The natural materials, earthy colors, and distinctive buildings make the Patagonia retail experience very memorable for consumers (image of retail store in Portland shown on the right). While the limited number of stores could be considered detrimental, the small(er) scale of Patagonia operations and customer touchpoints helps to keep the company personal.

Marketing Context...Patagonia’s loyal user base means the brand spends little money on marketing beyond its catalog. Brand ambassadors from different athletic endeavors serve as gear testers and endorse the Patagonia brand as suitable for serious athletes. Customers, also known as “patagoniacs,” are encouraged to send in their own photos for competitions and sometimes appear in the catalog.

Underlying differentiation from competitiors...Patagonia stands out from its competitiors in the outdoor gear space by the quality design and refinement of its products, and the brand’s environmental message. Patagonia products have a simplicity that comes from carefully considering every design decision and not adding features for the sake of “flare.” Green intiatives Patagonia has undertaken in the past decade or so include: the co-founding of 1% for the Planet, creation of the Common Threads Recycling Program, conversion to only organic cotton, and yearly campaigns to help publicize and pass legislation on environmental issues (ad for last year’s Ocean as Wilderness campaign seen to the right).

5.1 keybrandcommunicationdecision

Communication Decision

Clothes, not Models:In catalog photographs and on their website, Patagonia makes a clear communication decision to de-emphasize people, either at the expense of showcasing nature or the garments themselves. In what would be considered awkward and in poor form for other catalogs, photographs are cropped off at the model’s neck, while people in “lifestyle” shots are shown with their backs facing the camera. Even specific product pages on the wesbite show the garment alone, with no reference to how it looks on a model or even mannequin.

Meaning:As clear from this image on the right, nature is the focus of the image...the people just happen to be players on her stage. By creating anonymous models, the brand encourages viewers to aspire to be users of Patagonia gear, enjoying nature and free from the urban rat race. Patagonia gear is not for a specific kind of person, be that an athlete or a soccer mom, but rather for a person like you (whoever that may be!). Much like the romantic nature of the brand name itself, the images Patagonia uses to communicate seek to create a sense of desire in viewers. In the end, consumers are not buying quality clothing, but rather the possibility of experiencing nature and satisfaction of knowing they are working to protect it.

5.2 detailedanalysisofacommunication

Agent Timmy goes to Japan...In the video, Agent Timmy travels to Japan to attempt to persuade the Japanese to change their underwear so it can be recycled. As you might expect, hilarity ensues as Agent Timmy wanders around Japan on his quest...eventually being arrested as an “underwear thief” before finding his way to the “Undie Master.” Japan is a key location for the video because in reality, Teijin Fibers Limited is the company Patagonia uses to recycle garments.

The premise...Patagonia helped roll out a new feature of the Common Threads Recycling Program with an underwear hero, “Agent Timmy” (actually one of Patagonia’a brand ambassadors, rock climber Timmy O’Neill).While Patagonia has been involved in garment recycling since 2005, they recently started accepting all typesof Polartec brand fleece (even those sold by other companies) to be recycled. A seven minute video, “Mision Recycle,” was created to chronicle Agent Timmy’s work to spur on this new effort.

Common Threads Recycling Program:“Mission Recycle”

Video for the YouTube Generation...The video, created in the faux authentic style personified by Stephen Colbert, is obviously made to reach a different segment of the population than traditional Patagonia marketing. The brand’s traditionally serious tone towards environmentalism is turned on its head to be playful and frivolous. The messaging certainly has more personality, but at the same time, does it effectively communicate?

On brand...?As of now, Patagonia’s foray into viral video seems to be a one-time event, carried solely by the personality of Mr. O’Neill. While the the video has an admirable purpose, to inform a new, younger audience that clothing can be a recyclable resource, it does not support the Patagonia brand. The leap is too large in a viewer’s mind to connect Patagonia with an underwear crusader. Patagonia itself seems to recognize that continued exposure to “Agent Timmy” could cause brand dilution, as there is only a small link to the video and his photograph on their website.