A n a l o g u e G u i d e

Paris

Paris

USD 12.95 GBP 8.95 AUD 13.95CAD 13.95 EUR 9.95 JPY 1,200

PAGE 3

Introduction ..................................................................................................................5

Neighbourhoods .........................................................................................................6

Rivoli-Opéra ..................................................................................................................8

Le Marais ......................................................................................................................24

La Rive Gauche ........................................................................................................ 42

Passy-Étoile ................................................................................................................ 58

St-Denis-République ..............................................................................................64

La Bastille ....................................................................................................................78

Montmartre & Pigalle ............................................................................................88

Essentials .................................................................................................................. 100

Index ............................................................................................................................102

Metro Map ................................................................................................................ 106

Credits ........................................................................................................................ 108

About the Series ...................................................................................................... 110

Contents

PAGE 14 RIvOLI-OPÉRA RIvOLI-OPÉRA PAGE 15

The “Arts Décoratifs” is a bastion of decorative arts, design, textiles, fashion and graphism. Recent highlights include an exploration of the “underworld” of male and female undergarments used to stylise the body into the ideal beauty of different epochs, and an in-depth exploration of French graphic designer Philippe Apeloig’s creative process across the typographic spectrum. The museum’s shop offers a vast range of fascinating design related books and objects. And for a succulent taste of French decorative art history, visit the museum’s sister site, le musée Nissim de Camondo.

Fashion and Design Temple

Musée des Arts Décoratifs

107 Rue de Rivoli+33 1 44 55 57 50

lesartsdecoratifs.fr Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre , Pyramides , Tuileries

Closed Mon. Open Tue-Sun 11am-6pm; Thu temporary exhibitions until 9pm

Japanese confectioner Toraya’s intricate and visually exquisite wagashi, or Japanese confections, first hit the hexagone in 1980 with the opening of its Paris shop and tearoom. The shop’s warm wood panelling, coral and cream armchairs and black lacquered accoutrements plunge the guest into a tantalising mix of Japanese bubble economy era bling and Gallic je ne sais quoi. Settle in for a perfectly frothed bowl of matcha accompanied by a delicately moist dora yaki cake or opt for an impeccably served light lunch before hitting the shops.

Wagashi sur Seine

Toraya10 Rue Saint-Florentin+33 1 42 60 13 00

toraya-group.co.jp Concorde ,

Pyramides Closed Sun. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm

PAGE 26 LE MARAIS LE MARAIS PAGE 27

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PAGE 42 LA RIvE GAuChE LA RIvE GAuChE PAGE 43

In most riparian cities, the bank opposite from the city proper is distinctly inferior in status. In Paris, la rive gauche, the Left Bank, instead became the city’s intellectual hub, while the Right Bank specialised in commerce and finance.

The core of the Rive Gauche, the quartier latin, is dominated by prestigious universities, notably the Sorbonne and the École des Beaux-Arts (p 50). The area’s scholarly bent has long fuelled the intellectually charged conversations of the pavement cafés of adjacent Saint-Germain-des-Prés. By the late 18th century, Paris had turned into the intellectual capital of the Western world. The area was site of the 1968 student revolts and home to major post-war intellectual and literary movements, including surrealism and existentialism. Today, Saint-Germain exudes a mix of intellectual flair and an upmarket bourgeois lifestyle, with second hand bookshops sitting alongside international fashion brand boutiques.

Further west along the Boulevard Saint-Germain, the Faubourg Saint-Germain has been the home of the French nobility since the 18th century, when the upper classes moved here from the crowded Marais (p 24). After the Revolution, many noble residences, hôtels particuliers, were converted into national institutions—the Faubourg Saint-Germain is site of the National Assembly and numerous embassies. In the 19th century, no less than five Universal Exhibitions were held in the area, leaving the Eiffel Tower and today’s Musée d’Orsay (p 46) in their wake.

Beyond its core, the Left Bank is largely residential. Notable are the Olympiades, a 1970s housing development turned Europe’s largest Chinatown, and the Butte-aux-Cailles, a quaint urban village.

La Rive Gauche —Upmarket Intelligentsia

PAGE 70 ST-DENIS-RÉPuBLIquE ST-DENIS-RÉPuBLIquE PAGE 71

Fashion world veteran turned bread expert Christophe Vasseur stumbled upon an attractive but failing boulangerie near the Canal Saint-Martin in the early 2000’s. It wasn’t long before his fresh and natural loaves populated Du Pain et Des Idées’ flour-dusted shelves. By 2010, the bakery had been crowned best in Paris by Gault and Millau. So whether you’re seeking le pain des amis, or a more exotic invention like the croissant au thé matcha, a stopover at Du Pain et Des Idées is an absolute must.

The Best Baguette

Du Pain et Des Idées34 Rue Yves Toudic+33 1 42 40 44 52

dupainetdesidees.com Jacques Bonsergent ,

République Closed Sat/Sun. Open Mon-Fri 6.45am-8pm

Interspersed with picturesque cafés, wine bars and boutiques, a stroll along the charming Canal Saint-Martin surely ranks among the city’s greatest pleasures. Funded by a wine tax levied by Napoleon I in 1802, the building of the canal linking the Ourcq and Seine rivers was intended to supply the burgeoning city with a sanitary supply of fresh water while easing the flow of goods into the heart of the metropolis. Today, the canal plays a photogenic role in the revitalization of the ebullient 10th arrondissement.

Canal Life

Canal Saint-Martin10th Arrondissement

Jacques Bonsergent , Gare de l’Est

Public access

PAGE 96 MONTMARTRE & PIGALLE MONTMARTRE & PIGALLE PAGE 97

An excellent casual eatery on the trendy Rue des Martyrs, Cul de Poule dishes out a fabulous menu to the inhabitants of SoPi. At once neighbourhood résto and backdrop for the creative scene, complete with Shoboshobo mural and giant pillows, Cul de Poule is a restaurant with a personality. The outdoor terrace overlooking the picturesque streetscape is not to be missed in summer.

SoPi Dining

Cul de Poule53 Rue des Martyrs+33 1 53 16 13 07

Pigalle Closed Sun. Open Mon-Sat noon-2.30pm, 8pm-11.30pm

This South Williamsburg-meets-South Pigalle brasserie whips up refined Franco-American concoctions in a jovial setting. Subway tiles merge seamlessly with classic bistro chairs and all aspects, from the staff to the music, are at once happening and relaxed. Enjoy a warm summer’s day out on the terrace overlooking the neighbourhood’s characteristically charming architecture, while rubbing shoulders with the hood’s espresso sipping bobos.

Le Franco-Americain

La Maison Mère4 Rue de Navarin+33 1 42 81 11 00

lamaisonmere.fr Saint-Georges , Pigalle

Open daily. Mon-Sat noon-3pm, 7pm-2am; Sun noon-4pm