papillon haven rescue foster handbookadmin.paphaven.org/docs/fosterhandbook_old_2014.pdf ·...

Papillon Haven Rescue Foster Handbook

“Pap Haven”

Revised November 2009

Papillon Haven Rescue

A Safe Place for Papillons and the People Who Love Them

Welcome to the wonderful and challenging world of being a Papillon Foster!

There is nothing more gratifying and rewarding then rescue work, be it with

animals or humans. We have chosen to rescue and help Papillon and Papillon

mix breed dogs. We are all happy to welcome you to our Papillon family and

know you will find this little breed to be a joyful addition to any home.

On the following pages you will find some information that we hope will help

you in your endeavors to get your foster baby ready for its new forever home.

All the members of Papillon Haven Rescue are standing by to assist you in

every way. We have an Advisory Board of Directors, Regional Team Leaders,

Foster Team Leader, a consulting Veterinarian and many others that have

been working with the Papillon breed for many years. Each Papillon comes

with its own distinct personality and, often times, with its own set of issues. If

we all work together we can save these wonderful little dogs and get them

back into homes that will love and cherish them for the rest of their days.

Thank you a million times for wanting to join our effort to protect this

wonderful breed.

Pappy Smooches!

PLEASE PRINT OUT THIS HANDBOOK IN ITS ENTIRETY

We suggest you obtain a small 3-ring notebook for this Handbook for quick reference and when the internet is down or electricity is off

PAPILLON HAVEN RESCUE

FOSTER CONTACTS

Foster Team Leader Francesca Alfino (Central Time) [email protected] 314-205-2420 Linda Fleisch (Eastern Time) [email protected] for meds only 315-452-9120 In-Take & Placement Leslie Barnett [email protected] (Eastern Time) 315-437- 0118 Jan Jorolan [email protected] (Central Time) 501-865-4442 h 501-815-2766 cell Adoption Team Leader Andy Watson [email protected] 979-968-6350 h 979-966-3414 c

Or…. Check our website Contact Us page

Table of Contents

Before You Begin as a Papillon Volunteer ……………………………………………………………. 1 Team Leaders and Organizational Structure ……………………………………………………….. 3 Regional Map with Listing of Directors ……………………………………………….…………….. 7 Introduction to the Administration Website and Public Pap Haven Website ……………. 8 Flow Chart ……………………………………………………………………………………………………… 10 Guidelines for Picking Up Your New Foster ……………………………………………………….… 11 General Fostering Guidelines …………………………………………………………………….………. 14 Introducing Your New Foster to Your Home ……………………………………………………….. 18 Introducing Your New Foster to Your Resident Dog ….….…………………………………….. 20 All About Intestinal Parisites ………………………………………………….………………………… 22 Hypoglycemia …………………………………………………………………………………….…………. 31 Miscellaneous Information ………………………………………….………………………………….. 33 Vetting Guidelines ………….……………………………………………………………………………….. 34 Vetting Protocol ………………………………………………………………………………………………. 35 Vaccination Guidelines ……………………………………………………………………………………… 36 STEP by STEP: Goals for fostering your newly rescued papillon …….…..…….…………. 37 If You Plan to Foster or Adopt a Mill Dog ………..………………………………………………………. 39

Lost Dog Instructions ………………………………………………………………………………………. 42 Lost Dog Poster Example …………………………………………………………………………………. 44 Forms you will need and how to use them: ……………………………………………………….. 45 a. Initial Foster Dog Report …………………………….……………………………………………….. 46 b. Bi-Weekly Foster Update ……………………………………………………………………………… 48 c. In case of an Accident …………………………………………………………………………………. 49 d. Reimbursement form …………………………………………………………………………………… 50 e. Transport release form ………………………………………………………………………………… 51 Adoption Fee Schedule ……………………………………………………………………………………. 52 Holiday Adoptions …………………………………………………………………………………………… 53 General Fostering Policy Summary …………………………………………………………………… 54

Papillon Haven Rescue Foster Handbook Page 1


Before you begin as a Papillon Haven Rescue (“Pap Haven”) Volunteer, you will need to sign and fax an agreement stating that you have read and understood the following rules and regulations. This is for everyone’s protection, including our rescues! 1. DO NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, LET A PROSPECTIVE ADOPTER VISIT THE DOG BEFORE THEY HAVE BEEN APPROVED TO ADOPT. ALL Adoption Applications MUST be approved before any placement of a rescue dog occurs. (No exceptions can be made to this.) 2. If you have possession of a Pap Haven foster dog, this dog MAY NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES BE RETURNED TO THE PREVIOUS OWNER. THE OWNER TURN IN PAPERS ARE IRREVOCABLE AND ARE LEGALLY BINDING. They also may not be moved to another home (foster home or adoptive home) without permission and approval of the Pap Haven directors and/or the Foster Team Leader. 3. Each Pap Haven dog is to be fully vetted before placement. In most cases, Pap Haven will pay directly for the vetting. All medical treatment (except for emergencies) needs to authorize for each dog. A letter can be prepared for you to take to your veterinarian, or our Medical Team Leader can contact the vet directly to make arrangements. Please note that the drug Rimadyl is not to be used on any of the Pap Haven Rescue dogs. You may use Medicam or ask your vet for a substitute if he wants to use this drug. Nor do we use Revolution as a preventative. 4. If you are taking in an Owner Surrender, you will need the following form, to be signed by the person turning in the dog, and by yourself. RELEASE AND SURRENDER FOR ADOPTION (see handbook). 5. Never take your own animals with you to the home of an owner turn in. If we asked you to go get an Owner Surrender, time is of the essence. Please do not think that the dog will be safe for a few more days. Often, it will not. Let us know if you cannot go right away, so we may try to find another volunteer. If you get to the home of the Owner Surrender and for any reason do not feel the dog will work out being fostered at your home, please do not leave it there! We will pay for boarding until another foster home can be found. 6. When you are going to retrieve a dog from a shelter, we can e-mail a copy of our 501c3 papers, for you to take with you to the shelter, together with a Transfer and Release form. Many times the shelter does not have their own release form. If not, DO NOT LEAVE without getting our own form(s) executed. If for some reason you must be at the shelter without the needed documents, and the Shelter does not have a release form, etc. then write out some kind of Release Form saying they release the doggie to Pap Haven and get the shelter representative to sign and date it.


7. If one of our fosters dogs goes missing, contact your Foster Care Team Leader or Regional Team Leader or any of our contact names immediately so that we may help you to have the best chances of recovery. We have a LOST DOG packet (included) with instructions, if one of our dogs gets away from you. ALL Pap Haven rescue doggies MUST wear collars and/or harness and PHR identification tags at all times. (We furnish PHR tags)

I have Read the Foster Handbook Before you begin as a Papillon Haven Rescue (“PapHaven”) Volunteer, you will need to sign and return your agreement stating that you have read and understood the following rules and regulations as set out on this page one (1) and two (2) of the Foster Handbook, plus the contents of the Foster Handbook. _________________________________________ Name ____________________________ Date



TEAM LEADERS AND ORGANIZATIONAL STRUCTURE

General statement: 4/09 All will work together for the betterment of Papillon Haven Rescue

• MANAGEMENT TEAM

Directors Advisory Board Region Team Leader Coordinator

PROJECTS Librarian – Amy Fretz - Collects educational materials, books, magazines related to the Papillon breed plus general training and health issues. These are available for check out to the members.

Newsletter – Nora Lenahan - Editor

Events/Creative – Liddy-ann Everett Special WEBSITE Projects Team Leader: Lynn Grenier seek suitable websites to link our PHR site web searches to benefit our cause Media Coordinator – Jane Murdock

Café Press –Mary Fournier; Mission Fish eBay – Jim Parrott Rainbow Bridge – Bonnie Bias Happy Tails – Janice Geroni Happy Tales – Janice Geroni PapHaven Yahoo List – Ann Paynter

Shopping Mall Manager – Stephanie Sherwin monitors the Mall and takes inquiries and orders – coordinates sales with members with merchandise and shipping to purchaser. (web work – Jan) Blankie and Foster Balls – Liddy-ann Everett - Andy Watson & Amy Fretz PapMingle – Liddy-ann Everett

• Fund Raising – Jim Parrott (Jan Jorolan) Grants and Grant writing -- Joan Haddock & Robert Foulk Spring Auction: Stephanie Sherwood + Jan Rasch (web work – jjan) Westminster Games – Jan Jorolan

• Admin Site Monitor and Support - Jan Jorolan

Enters new IN-Coming and completes FINAL records (send pictures to Jan) Keeps Intake Log (Dog Log) – Legal list of all rescues in our group and their disposition

• Adoption - Andy Watson

Receive and process Applications for Adoption. Answer prospective adopters' questions or direct to proper person. Work with Foster Home Coordinator to complete the cycle. Monitor the Adoption webpage for up-to-date status of each rescue.

DNA –Foster Coordinator/Adoption Coordinator (Jan Jorolan) review regularly the National Do Not Adopt databank and post to the membership any person deemed not fit for adoption.


Post Adoption Liaison – Ginger Heard

Will do a follow-up interview with the Adopter at about one month; three months and one year to see how the Rescue Pap is adjusting to the new Forever Family.

• Finance – Donna Moore (Jan Jorolan, James Watson)

Accounting; funds acquisition; banking; reporting; fund raising.

Virtual Foster site: Jan Jorolan Tracking donations for specific paps and providing update to subscribers.

• Foster Home Coordinator – Francesca Alfino & Linda Fleisch

Maintain contact with all Foster Homes. Help with fostering issues, compliance with guidelines and policies, continuing education, training and mentoring, and fostering Goals. Work with In-Take & Placement Leaders in placing incoming Paps in proper and/or available foster homes. Assist Adoption Team Leader in Receiving/processing Foster Home Applications. Works with Foster Homes in making Adoption decisions. Notify Adoption Coordinator when a rescue deemed ready for Adoption. Meds Manager

• In-Take - Leslie Barnett & Jan Jorolan

Initiating rescue. Monitor Pet Finder and known posting sites. Intake of rescued doggies. Assists Foster Home Coordinator in placing in foster

home. Extensive networking with other rescue groups/shelters and/or transporting groups. Works with Adoption Coordinator, Region Team Leaders, Foster Coordinator.

• Transportation – Jan Jorolan Net work with other Transporting Groups for national contacts. "Run & map" (coordinate) and monitor a rescue transport.

Crate Librarian: Amy Fretz Keep Log of all CRATES for transporting. Try to anticipate where next In-Take need will be and get them there. We require our Paps be crated during transports.

• Medical - 3 rotating DVM advisors reporting back to the board.

Interfaces with veterinary clinics and hospitals, maintains medical records/reports, advises on the health and well being of our rescues. Keeps the membership up to date on medical advisories, etc. Working with Foster Team Leader and Foster Mom/Dads with health issues and providing preventatives. (Jan Jorolan, Linda Fleisch)

• Members Liaison - Need

• Operations – Jan Jorolan Oversight of the organization, documentation and development.

• Webmaster – Tami Jones

Design and maintain our website. Keep Organization Officers posted on any dead lines for domain, or web subscriptions.

• Volunteer Committee - Kay Nackers & Gail O Conner & Lynda Shaw Keeps roster of all PapHaven Representatives (members) and General Representative Applications current. New Volunteer Applications.


Communicates with the membership. WELCOME newcomers - Social amenities -- reminder to PHR Yahoo Group list for members to enter birthday dates on yahoo list calendar. Cards (electronic) to members when needed. Correspondence - Thank You notes, etc.

REGIONS: Region Team Leaders will be the leader for their Region. Establish a communications network with the members in their respective region and stay in close contact. Recruit other members and/or potential foster homes. Organize and lead a rescue within the region in conjunction with the In-Take and Placement Team Leader. Implement action to coordinate with other regions and/or other Team Leaders as needed. Be knowledgeable of PHR Guidelines, Procedures, Policies and processes. Collect applications and other data. Distribute educational/training and other printed materials. Conduct and/or assist with coordinating Home Visits. Meet with other Team Leaders monthly (or as called). Region Team Leader Coordinator: Francesca Alfino Region 1: WA; MT; OR; ID -- now covered by the CA team Region 2: TX -- Betty Haney Region 3: NE; KS; OK -- J.R. & Sandy Wythe Region 4: MO; AR; LA; MS; W. TN -- Kay Sullivan Region 5: WI; IL; IN; MI; KY --- Sandy Vaillancourt Region 6: VA; WV; PA; MD; DE; NJ; OH -- Bob Foulk Region 7: NY; CT; RI; MA; NH; VT; ME -- Peggy Pendill Region 8: E. TN; NC; SC; GA; AL; FL -- Donna Moore Region 9: ND; SD; MN; IA -- Nancy Sundberg Region 10: CA/NV -- Lucille Collura & Lisa Paul Region 11: CO/UT/WY -- Needed Region 12: AZ/NM - Greg & Beth Connors (all non-filled Regions default back to Jan Jorolan)


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Board of Directors

Jan Jorolan

Jim Watson

Donna Moore

Advisory Members

J.R. Wythe

Andy Watson

Bob Foulk

Rita Charvat

Linda Fleisch

PAPILLON HAVEN RESCUE Websites: (our website is “duel” i.e. two sides) The Pap Haven Administration (called the “admin site”) is located at:

http://admin.paphaven.org The Pap Haven Public Website is located at: http://www.paphaven.org Admin Site: Each member of Pap Haven has his or her own password for entering the admin site. The user name is your last name and you password is what you have chosen. No one else knows yours password, including the Foster Team Leader so if you should forget what it is please contact the Foster Team Leader or Jan Jorolan who can then reset your passwords you can log on and change it again. There is a wealth of information for all of us on the admin site. In order to use the site without problems, please make sure your have any “pop-up blockers” disabled. The left side of the page gives you all the areas that you can visit while on the site. When you click on one of the choices on the left column it will open a new area on the right. You will now have more options to choose from on the right side. Please feel free to look around the entire site, it is a work in constant progress and will change very often.


All the members, animals and forms will be on this website. When you go to people (on the left) you will then have choices on the right, one of which is “me” (meaning yourself). This is the information we have for you and it can be changed or corrected by clicking on the edit button. Always click on update at the bottom of the edit pop-up when you are done. The information on you should be kept up-to-date at all times as this is where everyone looks to get phone numbers, address’, email address’ etc. It also produces a map of your location, which is very helpful if we are trying to place or move a foster dog. Please keep this information current. When you go to the animal selection on the left it will then list all animals currently in the system (including yours). This is the information that feeds the public website that in turn feeds Petfinders website. The bio of your foster is shown here along with photos. The public will see these foster babies in full view on the public site and/or Petfinders. Again, this information needs to be current and as accurate as possible. You have the ability to edit your own foster information. Please make sure that the information completed on your foster dog is the most current at all times. Again, click on the update button on the bottom of the pop-up page. The age, weight, height and medical status are critical. Current photos are a must so please take them often and email them to Jan Jorolan – [email protected] Once again, the accuracy of this information is critical in getting your foster dog noticed, wanted and adopted! NOTE: Before changing the "status" to Adoptable notify Jan or Linda. Only they should change the status to these two categories as it triggers everything loading to the Public side of our PapHaven website. Other tasks need to be completed BEFORE this happens. Public Site: I am sure that everyone will agree that this site is simply gorgeous! The artwork, buttons and design are stunning and the information provided will certainly help the public in understanding the breed and finding a Papillon of their own. Please visit this site often. It will have information for the public and the members.


Transport to Foster

Foster Home Team Evaluation and Reporting

Confer with Adoptions Region Team Leaders

IN-TAKE (Start)

Search and Rescue

Monitor Sources

Networking

In-Take Log (Dog Log)

Liaison – Reg TL

Intake first confers with Medical –

Foster Team, Reg Team Leaders, Placement Coord

Adoption Applications

Adoption Team Leader find

approved adopter Evaluate Adopt Apps

Transport to Adopter

Dog Accepted at Forever Home!!! Delivery

RegionTeam Leaders Liaison to all Members in Region. Assist Foster Homes in conjunction with Foster Team Leader. Point of contact for Region and for public.

Region Team Leader Coordinator Coordinates between Regions; Information & training, etc.



GUIDELINES FOR PICKING UP YOUR NEW FOSTER RESCUE

If a dog is taken from a shelter, then it should be taken to a vet immediately, without it going home to the volunteer's house first, if possible. If not, then the dog should be quarantined somewhere far from the other animals in the house, and then go to the vet the next day or as soon as possible. Safety First! There are times when the rescue you are to pick up may have a disease that is not obvious. As a precaution, wear long sleeves and us latex gloves when handling doggies that you do not have firm documented health information on. Things to take with you when you go to pick up the new rescue: • Paper towel for clean ups; • Old bath towel for comfort in the crate; • Treats – good for diversion when needing to put on collar, etc.; • Toy that makes a squeak or noise – also good for diversion; and, • Bottled water and bowl. The shelter may provide you with a short leash that has a loop on the end. We recommend that you take a harness or a collar if the Pap is larger, and leash of your own.

1) Ask if they checked for a microchip. If so, get the number. 2) Ask what shots they have given him. 3) Ask for all of the history they may have on the dog, the kind of family it came from,

etc. 4) Did it receive regular vet care? 5) Why was it turned in (Use as a guideline - this may not be the "whole truth.") 6) What kind of food is the dog use to eating? 7) What kind of personality have they observed? 8) Any issues?

When you arrive at home put him in the place you have prepared for him. Show him food and water bowls. Maybe a special toy or bone just for him. Remember that a change of diet can cause intestinal distress so be prepared. Give him time to rest in his new home without stimulation from outside sources before introducing him to the rest of the family. He is under stress and more than likely was just neutered or spayed so is feeling the effects of anesthesia. When you feel comfortable, introduce him to the other family members SLOWLY and let him tour his new home under supervision. How much of the house he gets to investigate will depend upon whether or not you are going to quarantine the dog for a few days. You will need some time to determine if he is housebroken or not.


Make certain your fence is secure, and keep him on a leash at first, even in a fenced area, in case he can climb a fence. Or in the case of mill rescues, they may bolt to the far corner and try to evade capture. (ask about the “trailing leash” method) Also see Puppy Mill information within this Handbook. You may choose to put your rescue in a crate, playpen or exercise pens - to be able to confine a marking, or not housebroken dog, yet allow it to be with you. You may prefer an ex-pen or playpen because it is more open. You can reach in and pet or love on the dog easily. Both fold down so can be moved to always be where you are. The dog can stand, sit, lie down, or stand on his hind legs without any restrictions. There is room for food and water bowl and a bed. An adjustable gate is very handy for keeping the dog in a safe place like the kitchen or bathroom when you have to leave the house without him. It is open, lets air circulate and the dog can see out, but it safely confines him or her. It is strongly recommended to isolate (Quarantine) a dog that comes from a shelter for a few days before letting it interact with your personal pets. Kennel Cough is highly contagious and is airborne. It is good to have a safe place where you can observe the rescue and yet he can be part of your family. It is absolutely imperative to keep your own pet's boosters current when doing rescue work. Your pets MUST come first! It is very helpful to take the time to interact with the dog you are considering rescuing.

1) Walk around with him or her. 2) Hold the dog often. 3) Speak softly to him or her, and assure this new fur bay that everything is going to

be all right. 4) See how it reacts to you handling its ears, paws, and tail. This can give you an idea

if the dog is timid, or very friendly. 5) Does it go to the bathroom as soon as it is let out of its kennel? If it does, it may be

a good indication that he or she housetrained. 6) Does he or she seem happy to be with you?

If we decide to take the dog into rescue, and it has to be neutered or spayed before leaving, ask if they will bathe the dog on or before the day of the surgery. Some shelters have volunteers who will do this for you. Remember, the dog cannot be bathed for 10 days after surgery. If they don’t have anyone to do this, ask if they will allow you to come in the back and bathe the dog yourself. Also, evaluate for fleas and/or ticks. You may want to treat the rescue with Frontline or Advantage, etc. before it goes home with you. Make a vet appointment as soon as possible to get a general evaluation of the dog's health. Please get all vet visits approved, first, before you go to the vet. Please ask if your vet will give a discount, for rescue dogs. Most vets will give a 25 to 30 % discount for


true rescue dogs. We have all necessary documentation, to prove we are a legitimate rescue group. Look at the teeth when you see the dog. To minimize stress on the dog and minimize cost, if the teeth really need cleaning and the dog is taken to the shelters contract vet for neutering, make sure they clean the teeth at the same time. Also, request they do an anal expression and trim the nails. This saves the cost of a second anesthetic (good for the dog and good for us, they normally never charge for the anal purge and nail trim) and the contract vet's office will usually give you a price reduction for the teeth cleaning too. You MUST inquire what anesthesia is used at the shelter vet clinics – Isofluoran (or upgrade) is the approved one for Papillons. Paps are super sensitive to the common form used and in some cases have died. There is a new IM (intra-muscular) form of anesthesia – Telazol – that is causing reactions in Papillons, so it is not recommended or accepted by PapHaven. These are the things we want done at the shelter vet...please get an estimate first, if possible.

1) Spay/Neuter (Unless said rescue is possibly pregnant. Let us know if this is the case.)

2) Vaccinations (Please put the rabies tag on the dog immediately...in case it should get lost, they will be able to track him or her. Also, if you have an old rabies tag for your dog, you might even temporarily put it on his or her collar...it will be a way for someone who might find the dog, to contact you.

3) Heartworm check. 4) If a mill doggie, ask for a Brucellosis short test. 5) Check condition of teeth. 6) Worms. 7) Condition of nails/feet/skin/ears, etc. 8) Have your vet do a hearing and sight test so that we may let adopters know how

well their new dog can see and hear. SEE VETTING PROTOCOL (to be printed out and taken to the Vet Clinic) Regarding Heart Worm and Flea and Tick preventative, Pap Haven will pay for only what the dog uses while in rescue with Pap Haven. Never give Heartworm preventative without a current negative heartworm test, unless the dog has been on monthly heartworm preventative AND we have vet records, which show a Heartworm test within the last year. If possible, may we use one or two of your HW preventative pills, while the dog is in rescue, and reimburse you for that used portion? We do not use PROHEART 6 (now withdrawn form the market) or REVOLUTION triple poison application for Heartworm, Flea/Tick prevention.


Send the vet evaluation and a picture of the rescue to In-Take Team Leader, as soon as possible. You may fax us at 1-501.865.4600, or email Jan Jorolan at: [email protected] Get the dog vetted as soon possible so that any health problems are discovered and immediately cared for. It will need a clean bill of health so that it can go to its "forever home" as soon as one is found. For reimbursement use the Reimbursement Form included in this handbook and mail original copies of the shelter rescue fee (if any) and vet bills within 30 days to: Papillon Haven Rescue c/o Jan Jorolan

POBox 20306 Hot Springs AR 71903



General Fostering Guidelines

When you arrive home Take the dog to the place you have prepared for him. Show him food and water bowls, and perhaps provide him with a special toy or bone just for him. Provide comfortable, clean towels or other padding for him to sleep on. Give him time to rest in his new environment without stimulation from outside sources before introducing him to the rest of the family. Acclimate him to other members of the family, both animal and human, gradually, that is, short exposures, and then a rest period. Many times a foster dog is already experiencing elevated stress levels due to leaving their previous environment. It is advisable to take things slowly so as not to overwhelm them with too much stimulation too quickly. Whenever a dog is experiencing elevated stress levels, he is more susceptible to displaying behavioral challenges or to acquiring physical health complications. Try to put yourself in his place. Perhaps you will better understand how potentially frightening all these changes can be. Perhaps he has just been neutered or spayed, and is feeling the effects of anesthesia, or maybe he has just received vaccines and is not feeling up to par. When you feel he is ready, introduce him to the other family members SLOWLY and let him tour his new home under supervision. How much of the house he gets to investigate will depend upon whether or not you are going to quarantine the dog for a few days. Bathing Plan to bathe your foster dog as soon as possible once arriving in your care. EXCEPTION: Do not bathe if extremely fearful, aggressive, or suspect he could be ill. Check for any skin lesions or flea or tick infestations, particularly behind ears, between toes and under arms. Plan to start him on a vet prescribed heartworm and flea/tick preventative as soon as your vet approves it. Never give heartworm preventative without a current negative heartworm test, unless the dog has been on monthly heartworm preventative AND we have vet records, which show a heartworm test within the last year. NOTE: It is Papillon Haven’s policy that no dog be given the ProHeart 6 injection for heartworm, even at the recommendation of your veterinarian. Papillon Haven will not pay for ProHeart 6 injections. The FDA has requested the recall of ProHeart 6 Injectable Heartworm product from the market due to serious health concerns.


Dog not Eating It is very common for a foster dog arriving in a new home to refuse food until they feel more settled. Sometimes, they will even refuse water. Days could potentially go by before they are willing to eat. This places your foster dog in serious danger of having his blood sugar dip too low, which can result in a hypoglycemic seizure. To prevent this, it is imperative that they receive nutrients from day one of arriving in your care. If you detect that they are not eating, immediate steps must be taken to ensure their safety. Notify Jan Jorolan, or your Foster Team Leader immediately if your new foster is not eating or drinking. As a rule of thumb, please note the following guidelines:

• A dog can go 24 hours without food if they are still drinking water. But, if he goes 48 hours and is not eating, then medical help MUST be sought even if he is still drinking. If he is not drinking, then medical care needs to be found within 24 hours.

• NutraStat is a product that is available through most pet supply catalog companies or

local pet supply retailers. It is always advisable to have a tube of this on hand. It is easy to administer, and you may find that your foster dog readily accepts it. White Karo Syrup is also a good remedy for low blood sugar. If your foster dog rejects it, don’t give up. Place some on the tip of your finger and insert it into this mouth. Some dogs will also accept a spoonful of canned dog food, or a little chicken and rice, even if they won’t eat any dry kibble. Persistence in getting your foster dog to take in nutrients is a necessity. Young puppies are especially vulnerable to waning blood sugar levels.

• See HYPOGLYCEMIA

Housetraining You will need to assess the dog’s level of housetraining, and respond accordingly. Remember that a change in diet can cause intestinal distress, as can a stressful change in environment, so be prepared for this eventuality with plenty of paper toweling and an enzymatic cleaner (such as Nature’s Miracle) to clean up accidents. Make sure your fence is secure, and keep him on a leash at first, even in a fenced area, in case he can climb a fence. Or, in the case of a mill rescue, they may bolt to the far corner and try to evade capture. If the dog is not housetrained and you need help with this process, please contact your Foster Team Leader, or Jan Jorolan. Please do not punish the dog for accidents, rather ignore this behavior and take him outside. Show him where to go, and praise and treat any successes. Sometimes, it is necessary for younger or untrained dogs to be leashed to you, and taken out at regular intervals until they learn what is expected. YOU are also learning during this period what signals the dog gives to let you know he needs to go. The use of bellybands or potty pants is approved if necessary with the ultimate goal being successful housetraining.

Neither do we recommend or allow the use of REVOLUTION, the triple poison heartworm/flea/tick topical preventative. And we prohibit the doubling up of two different preventatives at the same

time.


Housing You may choose to put your rescue in a crate, playpen or exercise pen to be able to confine a dog that is not housebroken or one who marks, yet allow him to be near you. You may prefer an x-pen or playpen because it is more open. You can reach in and pet the dog easily. Both fold down and can be moved to always be where you are. The dog can stand, sit, lie down or stand on his hind legs without any restrictions. There is room for food and water bowls and a bed. An adjustable gate is very handy for keeping the dog in a safe place like the kitchen or bathroom when you have to leave the house without him. It is open, lets air circulate and the dog see out, but safely confines him. NOTE: Your foster dog must NEVER be left outside unsupervised, or housed out of doors, tied to a stake, tethered or on a “trolly”. Fill out the Initial Foster Report form with as much information as possible and email it to Linda Fleisch as soon as possible. Email digital Photographs to Jan Jorolan [email protected] as soon as you get the dog home. We will get updated photographs from you periodically but an immediate photo is needed to help identify our new Pap. Compose a short bio of the dog as soon as you can and email to Jan Jorolan. We will get updated information periodically and adjust this bio as needed. Again, the initial information is important for identification of the dog. Vacations Everyone needs to take a break from everyday life including fostering. However, please let us know when you are leaving and when you expect to return and where your foster will be during the time you are away. Make certain that whoever is caring for your foster has all the contact information for Jan Jorolan, and your Foster Team Leader. Also be sure that you leave detailed instructions of what to do in the event of an emergency while you are gone and detailed instructions on the care of your foster:

• The name, phone number and address of your vet; • The feeding schedule of your foster and the brand of food to feed him or her; • Any health issues and if needed, a list of medications and when to administer them; • Phone numbers to reach you while you are away; • Make sure you send your fosters bed and favorite toys with him or her to minimize the

anxiety level; and, • If possible, see if there is another foster in your area that could take care of your

doggie while you are gone. You could then reciprocate when that foster needs time off. Altering (spay/neuter): If the dog must be altered as part of the agreement for removing it from the shelter, please notify one of your Team Leaders. If the dog’s teeth need to be cleaned, it is always a good idea to have this done at the same time the neuter takes place. Also, request they do an


anal expression and trim the nails at the same time. This saves the cost of a second anesthesia (good for the dog and good for us) Most veterinarians do not charge for the anal purge and nail trim done when the dog is under anesthesia. General notes:

• If possible, may we use one or two of your heartworm preventative pills/chewables while the dog is in rescue and reimburse you for that used portion?

• Get the dog vetted as soon as possible so that any health problems are discovered and immediately cared for. He will need a clean bill of health so that he is ready to go to his “forever home” as soon as one is found.

• Send the vet evaluation and a picture of the rescue to In-Take Leader, Jan Jorolan, as soon as possible. You may fax it to 501-865-4600 or email us at [email protected].

• For vet bill reimbursement, mail original copies of the shelter rescue fee (if any) and vet bills within thirty (30) days. Use the Reimbursement Form found within Foster Handbook or located on the PHR Admin site.

• Please fill out the PHR Baseline Foster Dog Report that is available within or on the

PHR Admin site and be prepared to fill out updates on a bi-weekly basis thereafter as well. These detailed reports and updates are important, because they help us to match the dog to his potential adopters. Be sure to send us plentiful comments.

• For assistance contact your Foster Team Leader, Regional Team Leader, or Jan Jorolan.



INTRODUCING THE NEW FOSTER TO YOUR HOME

1) Have a crate or room partitioned off so that your foster dog can be quarantined. At least until after your local veterinarian has given him/her a bill of good health.

2) Plan a visit to the veterinarian within 48 hours of arrival to your home – or as soon as

possible. If possible, take a fresh stool sample for testing. Have your vet check for parasites, including heartworm. Plan to start your foster dog on a vet prescribed heartworm and flea/tick preventative as soon as your vet approves it.

3) Make sure your foster dog receives a bath as soon as possible once arriving in your

care. Check for any flea or tick infestations. EXCEPTION: Do not bathe if extremely fearful or suspect he/she could be ill.

4) It is very common for a foster dog arriving in a new home, to not want to eat until they

feel more settled. Sometimes, they will even refuse water. Days could potentially go by before they are willing to eat. It places your foster dog in serious danger of having their blood sugar dip too low, which can result in a hypoglycemic seizure. To prevent this, it is imperative that they do receive nutrients from day one of arriving in your care. If you detect that they are not eating, immediate steps must be taken to ensure their safety. Notify Jan, the Foster Team Leader or your Region’s Team Leader immediately if your new foster is not eating or drinking. As a “rule of thumb” please note the following guidelines:

• A dog can go 24 hrs without food if they are still drinking water. But if

he goes 48 hours and is not eating, then medical help MUST be sought even if he is still drinking. If he is not drinking then medical care needs to be found within 24 hours.

• NutraStat (NutraCal) is a product that is available through most pet supply

catalog companies or local pet supply retailers. It is always advisable to have a tube of this on hand as it is easy to administer, and you may find that your foster dog readily accepts it. White Karo syrup is also a good remedy for low blood sugar. (Only use honey as a last resort as it may contain bacterial contaminants) If your foster dog rejects it, don’t give up. Place some on the tip of your finger and insert it into your his mouth. Some dogs will also accept a spoonful of canned dog food, or a little chicken and rice, even if they won’t eat any dry kibble. Persistence in getting your foster dog to take in nutrients is a necessity. Young puppies are especially vulnerable to waning blood sugar levels.

5) Make introductions to other family members, 2 or 4-legged, gradually. Many times a

foster dog is already experiencing elevated stress level due to leaving their previous environment. It is advisable to take things slowly so as not to overwhelm them with too much stimulation too quickly. Whenever a dog is experiencing elevated stress


levels, they are more susceptible to displaying behavioral challenges or to acquiring physical health complications. Try to put yourself in their place, perhaps you will better understand how frightening all these changes could potentially be. They won’t realize the changes are for their benefit for a while.

If you have any concerns at all, please do not hesitate to contact: Jan, the Foster Team Leader or your Region’s Team Leader immediately to address these concerns.



Introducing Your New Dog to Your Resident Dog Copyright 2000. Dumb Friends League. All rights reserved.

(Used with permission)

Animals that live in groups, like dogs, establish a social structure within the group called a dominance hierarchy. This dominance hierarchy serves to maintain order, reduce conflict and promote cooperation among pack members. Dogs also establish territories, which they may defend against intruders or rivals. This social and territorial nature affects their behavior when a new dog is introduced to their household.

Introduction Techniques

• Choose A Neutral Location: Introduce the dogs in a neutral location so that your resident dog is less likely to view the newcomer as a territorial intruder. Each dog should be handled by a separate person. With both dogs on a leash, take them to an area with which neither is familiar, such as a park or a neighbor’s yard. If you frequently walk your resident dog in a park near your house, she may view that park as her territory, so choose another site that’s unfamiliar to her. We recommend bringing your resident dog with you to the shelter and introducing the dogs before adopting the new dog.

• Use Positive Reinforcement: From the first meeting, you want both dogs to expect "good things" to happen when they’re in each other's presence. Let them sniff each other, which is normal canine greeting behavior. As they do, talk to them in a happy, friendly tone of voice - never use a threatening tone of voice. Don’t allow them to investigate and sniff each other for a prolonged time, as this may escalate to an aggressive response. After a short time, get both dogs' attention, and give each dog a treat in return for obeying a simple command, such as "sit" or "stay." Take the dogs for a walk and let them sniff and investigate each other at intervals. Continue with the "happy talk," food rewards and simple commands.

• Be Aware Of Body Postures: One body posture that indicates things are going well is a "play-bow." One dog will crouch with her front legs on the ground and her hind end in the air. This is an invitation to play that usually elicits friendly behavior from the other dog. Watch carefully for body postures that indicate an aggressive response, including hair standing up on the other dog's back, teeth-baring, deep growls, a stiff legged gait or a prolonged stare. If you see such postures, interrupt the interaction immediately by calmly and positively getting each dog interested in something else. For example, both handlers can call their dogs to them, have them sit or lie down and reward each with a treat. The dogs will become interested in the treats which will prevent the situation from escalating into aggression. Try letting the dogs interact again, but this time for a shorter time period and/or at a greater distance from each other.


• Taking The Dogs Home: When the dogs seem to be tolerating each other's presence without fearful or aggressive responses, and the investigative greeting behaviors have tapered off, you can take them home. Whether you choose to take them in the same, or different vehicles, will depend on their size, how well they ride in the car, how trouble-free the initial introduction has been and how many dogs are involved.

• If you have more than one resident dog in your household, it may be best to introduce the resident dogs to the new dog one at a time. Two or more resident dogs may have a tendency to "gang up" on the newcomer.

Introducing Puppies to Adult Dogs Puppies usually pester adult dogs unmercifully. Before the age of four months, puppies may not recognize subtle body postures from adult dogs signaling that they’ve had enough. Well-socialized adult dogs with good temperaments may set limits with puppies with a growl or snarl. These behaviors are normal and should be allowed. Adult dogs that aren’t well-socialized, or that have a history of fighting with other dogs, may attempt to set limits with more aggressive behaviors, such as biting, which could harm the puppy. For this reason, a puppy shouldn’t be left alone with an adult dog until you’re confident the puppy isn’t in any danger. Be sure to give the adult dog some quiet time away from the puppy, and perhaps, some individual attention as described above.

When to Get Help If the introduction of a new dog to a household doesn’t go smoothly, contact a professional animal behaviorist immediately. Dogs can be severely injured in fights, and the longer the problem continues, the harder it can be to resolve. Conflicts between dogs in the same family can often be resolved with professional help. Punishment won’t work and could make things worse.



All about Intestinal Parasites

Canine parasites exist internally and externally. Many are species specific and exist only on the dog. Intestinal parasitism exists in all ages of dogs with the greatest frequency in puppies. Types and incidence of parasitism varies with geographic regions. Additionally, age and immune status are significant factors influencing gastrointestinal (GI) parasitism. This article concerns itself with canine GI parasites of North America.

Most parasites are diagnosed by a microscopic fecal examination using various chemicals to help concentrate the population of parasite eggs. Some parasites are visible to the naked eye although, they are not consistently shed into the feces. Some tapeworms shed packages (segments) of eggs consistently into the feces and are easily spotted by the owner. Certain GI parasites consist only of one cell such as, the protozoans; i.e., coccidia, giardia, and cryptosporidium.

Common Intestinal Parasites

Coccidia are one celled protozoans that are intracellular parasites of the lining of the small intestine that occur with some frequency. Eimeria and Isospora are the two most common coccidia of the dog. Infection occurs upon ingestion of contaminated feces or food. Upon ingestion, the parasite colonizes the lining of the small intestine and reproduction begins. As reproduction progresses the new coccidia are shed through the feces to the environment. Shedding of the protozoan can be asymptomatic or associated with signs of diarrhea and bloody stools. Puppies are most commonly affected. Most infections are not apparent and resolve on their own by self immunization. Occasionally, signs will occur and can be quite severe in heavily compromised pups. Adult dogs usually display significant immunity. Treatment for coccidia consists of antimicrobials that are bacteriostatic. These drugs stop the growth of coccidia and then the host¹s immune system responds to rid the intestine of the parasite. Sulfas are frequently employed as a coccidiastat. In kennel environments, prevention is essential. Usually good steam cleaning of kennels will eliminate the infestation of the environment. When the environment is difficult to control coccidiastats can be added in the feed or water for late stage pregnant bitches or young pups 3-6 weeks of age. Coccidia of the dog are not a zoonotic threat.

Cryptosporidium is a tiny coccidia that is can be difficult to confirm on routine microscopic fecal exams. Special stains are required. The organism infects man, cats and dogs. Puppies are primarily at risk. The disease produces voluminous watery diarrhea that varies with the severity of the organism and the health of the host. Immunocompromised dogs are at severe risk. In most dogs, the disease is usually asymptomatic or self limiting. Puppies are most likely to show signs. No treatment is available for eliminating the organism although coccidiastats have been used with questionable success. Antibiotics may have some effect. Treatment is primarily symptomatic to combat fluid loss.


Giardia is another protozoan intestinal parasite that infects many mammals including man. It probably is a zoonotic. The parasite is one of several flagellates (mobile tails attached to the single cell) that infect mammals. The disease produced is variable depending on the individual and age. Young puppies are most often affected. Signs usually occur 1-2 weeks after infection and often the disease goes unnoticed or is self limiting after a bout of diarrhea. It can produce severe diarrhea and fluid loss. Most cases that show signs are mild with minimal depression. The parasite is passed in the feces and is consumed directly by the next host. Giardia is very hardy and can remain in the environment for a number of months waiting for a suitable host. In addition, contaminated water is a frequent source of the flagellate. Diagnosing giardia can be demanding and may require frequent microscopic fecal examinations. Recently immunodiagnostics have been researched with some success. Giardia responds very well to treatment. Metronidazole, an oral antibiotic, is the drug of choice given daily for 5 days. However, because of resistance other drugs are being tried and may possibly replace metronidazole.

Tapeworms in dogs are less common than in the cat, probably because of their feeding habits and environmental restrictions. They represent a minority of the parasites seen in the dog but do occur regularly. They apparently do not stimulate any immunity by the host. The common tapeworms of dogs pose no threat to humans. However, Echinococcus, an uncommon tapeworm, but increasing in frequency, is potentially fatal to humans.

Dipylidium caninum and Taenia pisiformis are the common tapeworms of dogs. They are passed to the dog by ingestion of the intermediate host of the tapeworm. The flea is the intermediate host of Dipylidium and rabbits and rodents are the intermediate host for Taenia. Dogs ingest the intermediate host and release the intermediate stage of the tapeworm into the GI of the final canine host where the parasite matures to an adult in the small bowel. Eggs are shed to the environment from the GI of the dog in small segments that look like small pieces of rice. These segments can often be seen in fresh feces or attached to the adjacent tissues of the dog¹s anus. As the segments dessicate they release microscopic eggs into the environment for the cycle to begin again. Mature adult Dipylidium and Taenia reach 50cm. or more in length. Signs of Dipylidium and Taenia infestation are unapparent. These parasites seem to be innocuous in the dog. Their only threat is their repugnancy and the potential to further debilitate a compromised pet. Treatment for these two tapeworms is either oral or by injection under the skin. Several drugs are available. They include praziquantel, epsiprantel, fenbendazole and mebendazole. Prevention of Dipylidium consists of good flea control. Prevention of Taenia is difficult if your dog is a good rodent and rabbit hunter and may require prophylactic tape worming several times a year.

Echinococcus multilocularis is a small tapeworm that lives in the arctic fox, wolf, domestic cat and dog as the final host. Diagnosis in the dog is primarily by microscopic fecal exam. The intermediate host is the rodent; such as moles, shrews and field mice. The range of this parasite is moving south and is found in some of the northern tier states of the US. The zoonotic threat comes from the ingestion of fruit, food or water, contaminated by the feces of the fox, cat or sled dog. The increase in camping has exposed more humans and their pets to the potential of Echinococcus. Once the eggs of Echinococcus are ingested by man they form a large cyst in the liver. The only treatment is surgical removal. Unfortunately, the prognosis


is guarded because the cyst itself is very fragile and can rupture with manipulation resulting in death. Treatment for Echinococcus in the dog is the same drugs used for other tapeworms.

Diphyllobothrium latum (DL) is the largest tapeworm of the dog. It is uncommon accept in remote areas of the northern US and Canada where dogs, humans and wildlife may come in contact. The final host in addition to the dog is primarily man, but it also exists in the cat, fox, and bear. The worm enters the final host by ingesting raw or under cooked trout, pike, fresh water salmon and perch. DL can grow to an amazing 20 meters in the intestine. Eggs are shed directly into the feces. I f shed into water small crustaceans swallow the egg which are then consumed by fresh water fish and ultimately the final host. With each intermediated host DL matures to infect the final host when eaten. The worm is asymptomatic in the dog but, in man can produce severe anemia. Treatment is no different than other tapeworms in the dog. Diagnosis is primarily by microscopic fecal exam.

Roundworms (Toxocara) are very common. It has been speculated that 85% of puppies are infected with roundworms. Toxocara canis (TC) and Toxocara leonina (TL) are the two roundworms of the dog, with the former being far more prominent. Both worms are large, around 3 inches. Both are diagnosed by standard microscopic fecal exams. False negatives occur when no eggs have been shed into the sample presented. Infection occurs in both TC and TL by ingestion of eggs when contaminated feces are shed into the environment. However, the vast majority of TC infection occurs by transplacental migration from the bitch to the pup. Immature larvae from either method of transmission of TC undergo migration from the gut into various tissues. The majority of the larvae migrate through the liver, diaphragm, lungs and up the major airways. As they move up the trachea, occasionally several worms will be coughed up by the pup and discovered in the expectorant. Most of TC will continue their migration and be swallowed, moving down the esophagus, into the stomach and back into the small intestine where they reach adult status and begin shedding eggs. Some of the migrating larvae become encysted in tissues as migration occurs. They remain there without consequence during the dog¹s life. Infection by TL does not produce this larval migration. Most dogs develop some immunity to reinfection of TC and TL. Reinfection can add to the existing burden of encysted immature larvae but usually does not result in intestinal infection. Adult infection is estimated to be around 10-15% in the US. Encysted larvae return to the intestine when severe stress occurs to the host. The best example is the pregnant bitch which regularly passes TC via the placenta to its offspring. As a consequence almost all puppies are positive for roundworms. TC does have a serious zoonotic threat when larval migration enters vital tissue of man, in particular the eye. Children are at the greatest risk because they tend to put their fingers into their mouth without proper hygiene. The high incidence of TC and the serious health concern in children make a cogent argument for vigorous round worming schedules in puppies.

Signs of roundworms can be serious in puppies producing abdominal pain, bloating, dull coat, diarrhea and occasionally fatal small bowel obstruction. Migration can cause respiratory signs that mimic upper respiratory infections. Occasionally, serious pneumonia result. Adult dogs rarely show GI signs but can compromise their overall condition, especially if other diseases are active.


Treatment of roundworms in puppies consists of oral medication at 4, 6 and 8 weeks, followed by a microscopic fecal exam at 11-12 weeks. In adults, annual fecal exams are recommended to remove asymptomatic infections. Monthly heartworm preventive drugs contain good round wormers and effectively worm the dog each month during the heartworm season. There are many good round wormers on the market. Pyrantel pamoate is one the more common effective inexpensive wormers. Other wormers include dichlorvos, febantel, fenbendazole, ivermectim and piperazine.

Hookworms are common parasites of dogs regardless of age. They are most common in warm humid climates but, exist all over North America. Ancylostoma and Uncinaria are the two hookworms found. The incidence of Ancylostoma is just under 20% in all ages of dogs. Uncinaria is found in about 1% of the dogs and is more common in Canada. Both worms are transmitted by chance skin penetration by the immature larvae or by ingestion of contaminated feces.

Hookworm is a zoonotic. Infective larvae can penetrate the bare foot of man and cause mostly a self limiting local skin irritation for three weeks. In the dog hookworm can be severe to unapparent. After eggs are deposited onto the ground in the feces, hot humid temperatures will precipitate the development of larvae. After skin penetration, migration of the larvae into the blood stream carries them around the body and into many tissues. Most are brought to the lungs and like roundworms are swallowed back into the intestinal tract 3 weeks later. As mature hookworms, they attach to the lining of the intestinal track and suck blood. Hookworm larvae also migrate into the gestating pup and continue to mature when the pup is born. Puppy hookworm can be profound and require strong supportive care. Severe hookworm infection can cause marked anemia, intermittent bloody diarrhea, dull dry hair coat, and weight loss. Young and adults dogs that are immunocompromised or suffer with another disease are most at risk.

Hookworm is easily diagnosed by microscopic fecal exams. Treatment involves one of many good drugs available in mild cases. In more severe cases pyrantel pamoate, intravenous therapy, blood transfusions, and good nutritional support are very important. As with roundworm the migrating larvae require several wormings given at 2-3 week intervals. Prevention can be accomplished by annual fecal exams (repeated more often in warm humid clients) or by the use of a monthly wormer in conjunction with heartworm prophylaxis. Filarabits plus, a daily heart wormer, also provides daily hookworm prevention. Prophylaxis includes regular removal of feces. Bleach can be used to disinfect cement dog runs. Treatment of lawns with a commercial larvacide may also be necessary if repeated hookworm infection occurs.

Whipworms are common but less prevalent parasites. Whipworms are found in warm humid climates and are much less prevalent in the western dry areas of North America. In addition, the difficulty in diagnosing this parasite may disguise its actual incidence. It may require several fecal samples to demonstrate the egg in a microscopic exam.

Whipworms are acquired by ingestion of the egg from contaminated feces. The egg is capable of surviving in the environment for months. Upon ingestion, the egg matures and the adult


infection occurs in 2-3 months as the worm burrows into the lining of the large bowel and cecum. Clinical signs are that of colitis: straining, mucous diarrhea with occasional blood and an urge to defecate small volumes frequently.

Treatment for whipworms requires several treatments with fenbendazole or febantel for 3-5 days and repeated in 3 weeks. Severe cases of whipworms are not common but, can require surgical intervention. Prophylaxis includes careful removal of feces and bleaching dog runs regularly.

Less Common Parasites

Strongyloides is a less common intestinal parasite found only in warm, humid areas of the US. Signs of the disease are mainly severe diarrhea often bloody. The worm is quite serious in puppies and will cause death if untreated. The disease is diagnosed by microscopic fecal exam. Infection occurs when contaminated feces are consumed or by skin penetration. Treatment is with one of several drugs that include pyrantel pamoate, fenbendazole, thiabendazole and possibly ivermectin.

Capillaria is a roundworm that resides in the lung of dogs and foxes. The incidence is under 1% in the US. Infection is by ingestion of contaminated feces. The developing larvae migrate directly to the lungs. Adults lay eggs in the lungs which are moved out the lungs and coughed up, reswallowed and passed in the feces. Severe infections cause chronic inflammation of the bronchi and trachea but mild infections are common. Ivermectin may play a roll in treatment but, currently there is no recommended therapy

Paragonimus is an infrequent parasite of the dog that exists almost exclusively in the most northern areas of the Midwest and north central Canada. The parasite is a trematode (fluke) that occurs very infrequently when dogs are exposed to the fresh waters of the north where dogs may come in contact with mink feces. Transmission is by consumption of freshwater crustaceans and snails, acting as an intermediate host. The disease is serious only when the parasite gets into the brain. There is no recommended therapy. Prevention is by eliminating the consumption of freshwater crustaceans and snails.

Nanophyetus salmincola is a small intestinal fluke acquired by dogs when they consume raw salmon from the northwest. The disease exists only in the northwest. The parasite is mostly innocuous. However, within the parasite a more serious threat lives. Many of the flukes are infected with Neorickettsia helminthoeca (salmon poising), a rickettsia which causes fever, anorexia, vomiting, diarrhea and death in up to 90% of the cases. Therapy for salmon poising involves supportive care including intravenous fluids and antibiotics. Prevention involves avoidance of raw freshwater fish. No therapy is recommended for infection with the fluke. Coccidiosis


Coccidiosis is the name for a disease produced by coccidia which are microscopic one-celled organisms that can infect the small intestine of dogs and cats. Scientific names of coccidia are Isospora canis and Isospora felis among others. Coccidiosis is common worldwide. Symptoms of Coccidiosis Clinical signs will vary from case to case. Puppies and kittens are usually more severely affected than older pets. In light infections little or no clinical signs may be seen. In heavy infections the patient can develop a bloody diarrhea with much mucous in it, vomiting, depression, weight loss, and fever. How Coccidiosis is transmitted Pets acquire Coccidiosis by ingesting the infectious forms from contaminated stool in the environment. More severe cases of Coccidiosis are often seen in young animals under stressful conditions such as shipping, weaning, pet shops, kennels, etc. Human risk for contracting Coccidiosis No. Diagnosis Coccidiosis is diagnosed by detecting the coccidia organisms in a stool sample analyzed under a microscope. Treatment Coccidiosis is treated by giving oral medications for several days. Prevention of Reinfection infection Reinfection can be prevented by removing contaminated stool.

Other intestinal parasites that can affect your dog or cat In addition to coccidiosis your dog can become infected with tapeworms, roundworms, whipworms, and hookworms (which are all worms) and giardia (which is a protozoa parasite), among others. Your cat can pick up tapeworms, roundworms, and hookworms along with giardia and toxoplasmosis (which is another type of coccidia) among others.


INFORMATION FOR CONSUMERS

FOOD AND DRUG ADMINISTRATION CENTER FOR VETERINARY MEDICINE

FACTS AND FALLACIES ABOUT CANINE PARASITES

The following consumer information is provided by Dr. Sandra Woods, Division of Drugs for Non-Food Animals. Center for Veterinary Medicine.

1. A female dog with roundworms can pass these worms to her puppies in utero and/or through her milk after birth.

TRUE. Roundworms may migrate across the placenta and into the puppies prior to birth, but the most important route of infection is through the milk after birth.

2. Roundworms can cause disease in people when the immature forms (larvae) are accidentally consumed.

TRUE. Although the roundworm larvae do not develop to maturity in people, the larvae can infect humans and migrate through their internal organs causing tissue damage. In rare cases serious damage, such as blindness, may occur.

3. In newborn puppies as few as 50 to 100 hookworms may be fatal.

TRUE. This number of hookworms can consume a puppy's blood faster than his bone marrow can make it, leading to severe anemia and death within a month.

4. Borax and bleach are effective in eliminating hookworm larvae from paved kennel runs.

TRUE. An effective sanitizing solution can be made at home using the following formula: 1 cup Tide 1 cup Borax I gallon bleach

Place in a 5 gallon bucket and fill with water. After cleaning, soak runs with this solution. Do not rinse after treatment.

5. A female dog infected with hookworms can infect the puppies from her next three litters with this parasite.

TRUE. The hormone changes during pregnancy cause the excysted hookworm larvae in the mother's body to mature and migrate across the placenta to infect her unborn puppies. The hookworm larvae may also be present in the milk of an infected mother which may heavily infect her nursing puppies.

6. A skin infection in people can be caused by canine hookworms.


TRUE. Although canine hookworms can't mature in people, the larvae can migrate through the skin and subcutaneous tissue, causing serious skin lesions.

7. Fleas and biting lice can transmit tapeworms to your dog.

TRUE. There is a common tapeworm of dogs which requires biting insects, such as fleas and lice, to complete its life cycle.

8. Tapeworms must be totally eliminated by medication or the remaining segments will regenerate whole worms in just a few weeks.

TRUE. Most species of tapeworm are capable of regenerating missing body segments if the head of the worm is not destroyed: therefore, medication to treat tapeworms should cause disintegration of the whole parasite. No treatment will be effective if the intermediate host (flea) is not eliminated from the environment, because the intermediate host will re-infect the dog repeatedly.

9. Heartworms can cause occlusion of major blood vessels in me dog resulting in death.

TRUE. During a heavy infection, the major blood vessel returning blood to the heart may become completely occluded, resulting in sudden collapse and death within a few days due to liver failure.

10. Heartworm disease is easily prevented by giving a daily drug dose.

TRUE. While heartworm disease is difficult to treat, it is easily prevented with small daily doses of diethycarbamazine commonly called DEC.

11. Whipworms are easily eliminated.

FALSE. Both the larvae and the adult whipworms are notoriously resistant to medication. Elimination may take several months and reinfections from a contaminated environment are common.

12. Whipworm infections are often asymptomatic.

TRUE. Most dog harboring this parasite show no signs of disease. Asymptomatic dogs shed eggs which contaminate the environment and may infect dogs free of this parasite that visit the contaminated area.

13. The best way to eliminate fleas completely is to dip the dog.

FALSE. Fleas spend a small portion of their life cycle on the dog. They get on the dog for blood meals and spend most of their time hopping around the environment; therefore, effective flea control programs treat both the dog and the environment.

14. Dog fleas only feed on dogs.


FALSE. Dog fleas prefer dogs to feed on, but when they have gone a long time without a blood meal, they will bite any warm-blooded animal including people.

15. Red mange is caused by a mite.

TRUE. The demodectic mange mite migrates in the dogs skin and hair follicles causing itching lesions, hair loss, and in severe cases, death.

16. Red mange can cause extensive hair loss and severe skin lesions.

TRUE. Red mange has become so severe that it has caused death.

17. Red mange is easily cured by dipping the dog.

FALSE. Demodectic mange mites are susceptible to many insecticides but it is difficult to get these drugs into the skin. A new FDA-approved medication, Mitaban®, is available to your veterinarian and has been more effective than older medications in treating demodectic mange. The veterinarian is the only one who should determine if and/or when this drug should be used.

18. Ticks may attach themselves to your dog and cause tick paralysis.

TRUE. One genus of ticks has been associated with tick paralysis in the United States. Prompt removal of the tick usually reverses the paralysis.

19. Your veterinarian is the best person to consult in setting up a parasite control program.

TRUE. Your veterinarian has had extensive training in parasitology. He knows the life cycles of all the parasites likely to infect your dogs. He is also familiar with the medications that will be effective in treating parasites. Your veterinarian is also trained to recognize adverse drug reactions and to prevent their occurrence when more than one insecticide or anthelmintic must be used on the same animal at the same time. There are other parasites, not mentioned above, which may affect your dog, so consult your veterinarian at least once a year to have your dog examined and treated if necessary.



HYPOGLYCEMIA by Annette Davis

(reprinted with permission)

Hypoglycemia or low blood sugar is a possible problem with all toy breed puppies. Veterinarians unfamiliar with toys often miss-diagnose the condition as viral hepatitis or encephalitis. As a toy breeder or pet owner, it is important to recognize the symptoms of hypoglycemia and know how to treat it. Hypoglycemia is easily treatable in the early stages, but fatal if allowed to progress. Many puppies are lost needlessly to hypoglycemia because of the ignorance on the part of their owner or veterinarian. The first sign of hypoglycemia is the puppy slowing down and then acting listless. The puppy will then begin to tremble or shiver. This is a reaction caused as the brain is starved for glucose. The trembling is followed by a blank stare and the puppy lying on his side. He may also experience convulsions. After a time, the puppy will become comatose. His body will be limp, lifeless, and the tongue and gums will be a grayish/blue color. The body temperature will be subnormal. The puppy may even appear to be dead. If caught in the early stages, treatment is simple. Rub Nutri-Cal (white Karo syrup will do if you have no Nutri-Cal) on the puppy’s gums, under the tongue, and on the roof of the mouth. (Caution – do not use honey.) Get a heating pad or heating blanket and slowly warm the puppy to proper body temperature. If the puppy responds, all is well. Feed a quality canned food right away (you may want to mix it with egg yolk) and then monitor the puppy to be sure that the condition does not recur. Be sure to eliminate the stress that caused the episode if at all possible. If caught in the more advanced stages, treatment is more complicated. Always assume that the puppy is alive. Rub Nutri-Cal or White Karo in the mouth, and carefully insert a small amount in the rectum. Slowly warm the puppy to normal body temperature (101-102 degrees F) and keep him warm continuously with light heat. If the puppy still does not respond, carefully eye dropper dextrose solution or Karo water into the mouth, a little at a time. Call your veterinarian and inform him that you have a hypoglycemic puppy. He will prepare a warmed dextrose solution to inject subcutaneously and may put your puppy on an IV drip. Request a fecal exam. Your puppy may have intestinal parasites such as worms, coccidia, or giardia that need to be eliminated immediately. A bacterial or viral infection may also be present and antibiotic treatment necessary. If your puppy has been given glucose injections, it is probably a good idea to treat him with antibiotics so that infection does not occur. Your vet will likely recommend a prescription canned food such as a/d to give as your puppy recovers. You can finger feed the a/d “as is” from the can and add Pedialyte to the drinking water. You must also keep the puppy warm at all times. Of course use prudence, and do not over-heat or dehydration will occur. In severe cases you may need to force feed a/d for a time and give Pedialyte with a dropper. Give B vitamins to stimulate appetite. As


your puppy improves he will begin to eat on his own and then you can gradually phase back in his regular food. It is important to understand that just because a puppy has an episode of hypoglycemia, it does not mean that the puppy is truly “hypoglycemic.” True hypoglycemia is a chronic condition caused by overproduction of insulin by the pancreas. Even though the pancreas may normally function properly, toy puppies can still have an isolated hypoglycemic incident in reaction to stress. Hypoglycemic incidents are almost always preceded by a stress of some kind. Some examples of common stresses include: weaning; teething; vaccinations; a change in environment; shipping; over-handling; cold temperatures; intestinal parasites; infections; anorexia; etc. Many puppies simply play too hard and stress their system or forget to eat. I have heard of young males experiencing hypoglycemia when a female in heat is around. They become so worked up over the female that they do not eat and their blood sugar drops. Tiny dogs often do not have the fat reserves to supply adequate glucose in times of stress or when they do not eat regularly. Hypoglycemia most often occurs when the puppy has not eaten for several hours. This is not always the case, however. A puppy can have eaten recently and still show signs of hypoglycemia if his system is stressed and the food has not been digested and assimilated. It is important to “free feed” toy puppies a high quality food. Toy puppies simply have too high of an energy level to be restricted to scheduled feedings. Most do fine if switched to scheduled feedings when they reach adulthood, but they must have access to food and water at all times when they are puppies. If you like to give your puppy canned food, you can schedule the feeding of the canned, but allow access to kibble at all times. A SUMMARY of IMPORTANT REMINDERS is as follows:

1) Always keep Nutri-Cal or Karo (White Corn Syrup) on hand. This is the quickest way to revive a hypoglycemic puppy.

2) If you ever see your puppy becoming listless, or laying on his side and acting unresponsive IMMEDIATELY rub Nutri-Cal or Karo on his gums, under his tongue, and on the roof of the mouth. Slowly warm him to normal body temperature with a heating pad. Feed him as soon as he responds. Call your veterinarian if the puppy does not quickly respond.

3) Keep you puppy from chilling, free of parasites, and minimize stress. 4) See that your puppy eats often and maintains a proper body weight. 5) Do not over-handle your puppy. Be sure to allow him rest time and alone time. Like

all babies, puppies need to have a regular schedule of rest, meals, play and potty.



MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION CRATE TRAINING: PHR recommends the use of crates with our foster Paps. Puppies are supposed to be able to "hold it" for an hour for each month they are old. This is a general guideline and not etched in stone! (i.e. a 4 month old should be able to hold it for 4 hours) Why should I crate train my dog? Crate Training is the fastest and most humane method of housebreaking dogs. Have you ever seen a dog under a table, chair or bed? The reason is that dogs naturally want to seek shelter, even in a house. If you don't provide it, they will create it themselves in an effort to feel safe and secure. A crate serves as a den for your dog. Crate Training is the fastest and most humane method of housetraining What is crate training? Like babies, puppies cannot control their bladders until they mature (usually between 3 and 6 months). Dogs have a natural instinct to avoid eliminating in their dens. Therefore, confining your puppy in his crate for the proper amount of time encourages him to "hold it" until you take him outside for a walk. For a FREE step by step guide on housebreaking puppies (including the rules of crate training) click here. What about housebreaking older dogs? (PHR uses the term “House Training”) It is never too late to crate train your dog! The number one reason dogs end up in shelters is behavior problems. Crate training, at any age, can help break bad habits and solve most of these problems. How long do I need to use the crate? Crates are not just for training, they are good for the lifetime of your dog. By providing a crate for your dog, you are in essence providing him with his own bedroom. Crates are especially important for older dogs that use it to escape the hustle and bustle of everyday family life, which often includes small children or other pets that may harass them. How safe is crate training? Crates are not just for training! Dog crates are the best housetraining tool available. They provide a room for your dog while protecting your home furnishings from damage. However, even a crate isn't an absolute safe harbor for your pet. As per crate manufacturers’ warnings, you should always remove standard collars before placing your dog in a crate. The only collar we recommend as being safe when inside a crate is Premier's "KeepSafe" break-away collar. Otherwise, your dog is at risk for possible strangulation if his collar or ID tags become caught in the crate's bars. Crate bumpers are the only bumpers made high enough to help prevent collar strangulation and other crate-related injuries.



Vetting Guidelines When a new doggie comes into rescue, he/she is taken to a vet as soon as possible for an evaluation. One of the Team Leaders usually confers with this examining vet for an opinion of the health status. If there are ANY indications for needing further testing - whether it be a blood panel or special testing - we will either request it at that time or with the vet that the Foster Mom/Dad uses when the Pap arrives there. Each case is an individual assessment. (Remember, any expenditure of $250 or over require approval) Our standard vetting request is: health evaluation (thorough check up); teeth; parasites; brucellosis short test – ONLY if from a commercial breeder); heart worm test; and bring up to date on standard vaccinations. This is followed with spay/neuter. Should the health evaluation indicate more test are needed, then approval must be obtained. SEE VETTING PROTOCOL - a copy to be taken with the Pap to the first Vet appointment and placed in the Pap’s folder as this establishes to the clinic what we will pay for. When giving full coverage on vaccinations, delay the rabies until at least 5 – 10 days later, especially for the small Paps. The Papillon breed has demonstrated, in a great enough percentage, that the possibility of a negative reaction is very real. Spacing the rabies to a minimum of 5 days or later will reduce the possibility of a multi-dose reaction. We have had a case where one of our rescue doggies ran up a vet bill of over $1400 with specialist, duplicate and multiple testing, and possibly duplicate billing. This rescue did not have any critical health issues. Maybe the problems wouldn’t have been viewed as "routine" problems, but the vets considered them "routine." The bottom line is that while this sweetie definitely needed to receive medical attention, the excess funds spent for him/her meant we could not take into rescue 2 more doggies. So keep in mind, there is always the "other" side to consider. You will notice that in our Procedures and Guidelines, there is a cap on medical expenditures of $250. When we approach this amount you will need to confer with the Team Leaders. This does not mean we will not spend that amount, it just means we need to check our funds, etc. And if we are low, then we will appeal to our donors so we can get it covered. So far, we have paid all our bills on time. We are financially supported WHOLEY by donations which means that there are times when funds may be tight. We also have very generous members and supporters and have so far been able to over come any short falls in funds. But, this also means that we have to be prudent in our expenditures. In an ideal world we could do all sorts of testing for a new rescue, but we are a rescue group --- and all of you already know there is nothing ideal about this work.



VETTING PROTOCOL (take to vet clinic)

1) Bath (prior to any surgeries) 2) Brucellosis Test (if from sub-standard kennels)

3) Heart Worm Test (if positive dog must wait until it has been successfully treated before proceeding with spay/neuter/dental)

4) Give Basic Vaccinations and Bordetella (parvo, distemper and rabies)

(spread the vaccinations, putting as much time as available between the basic shots and the rabies shot to help prevent a reaction)

NOTE: we do not give lepto and corona. (EXCEPTION: Lepto in southern states)

5) Health Check Up (everything, heart, teeth, eyes, ears, legs, etc) weight and height (please submit findings to PHR immediately)

6) Parasite check (fecal)

7) Treat infections 8) Schedule Spay/Neuter/Dental 9) Interceptor: near end of boarding time, please give each pap a single dose of

Interceptor. (NOTE: we do not use Revolution) Puppies: If puppies are approximately 5-7 months, and the attending veterinarian agrees, we will start on HW preventative without testing. No Brucellosis test for puppies. Questions: Contact: Jan Jorolan 501-865-4442 or Linda Fleisch 315-452-9120

If heartworm is positive the dog must wait until it has been successfully treated before continuing to number 8.

WAIT for Brucellosis test results before proceeding further. (Use an in-office Bru test if possible - slide test) If the Brucellosis test is positive, then we do the long Bru test sent off to a lab and get a confirmation on positive finding. If after the 2nd test it is positive, then we may have to put them down. Must first be confirmed with DVM from our group. If the Brucellosis is negative or the rescue is NOT from a sub-standard kennel proceed to number 3.



Vaccination Guideline Seminar Information only

Here is the latest info we received on vaccinations at the seminar Jan Jorolan recently attended. I thought everyone might be interested in it. These are guidelines only. Each protocol should be designed for an individual situation. Core Vaccines given every 3 years

• Distemper • Para influenza • Adenovirus 2 • Rabies

Noncore Vaccines

• Bordetella brociseptica (parental) given yearly if dog goes to the groomer routinely, is boarded, or is taken on walks routinely / the first treatment can be nasal but booster needs to be parental

• Leptospirosis (serovars as indicated) given annual if the dog is over 12 weeks of age and dog has the opportunity for unsupervised outdoor activity or dog has access to areas inhabited by “reservoir” host or cases are known to have been confirmed in the area

• Lyme borreliosis boster annual if dog travel to endemic areas (Notheastern US or upper Midwest) and spends time outside or cases have been diagnosed in the area using the IDEZZ Snap 3Dx or Western Blot analysis and dog is not receiving topical tick preparation (e.g. Frontline) (PapHaven does not recommend this vaccine)

Not Recommended

• Cav-1 Canine Adenovirus 1 • Guardia

All of these recommendations will be changing as new research and new vaccines come out. This is not a static recommendation. It will be changing. There are many new vaccines coming on the market. Information about titers: Serum antibody concentration is relatively a crude measure of immunity. There are only a few viruses for which there is a correlation between a “positive” antibody titer and protection against infection. These include canine distemper, canine parvovirus, and feline panleukopenia. Even for those infections in which antibody does correlate with protection the absence of antibody does not necessarily correlate with susceptibility. And there is no established standard for measuring antibody titers in dogs and cats.



STEP by STEP Hopefully this information will help guide you when you get your foster furbaby from PapHaven whether it is the first time or after many times.

• Upon receiving your foster Pap, please keep them separate from your own furbabies. This is important especially until your new foster has been given a clean bill of health from your veterinarian. It will also make the transition easier for your new foster by serving to maintain order, reduce conflict and promote cooperation among pack members. The stress level will be lower for a foster and your own furbabies if they are given a chance to meet your pack one at a time.

• As soon as received please put a collar with a PHR tag on your new foster. This is the

most dangerous time for them. They are frightened, skittish and could bolt. Having identification could be the difference in life and death at this time.

• Prepare and submit an Initial Foster Report form (the form is contained in this Foster

Handbook). The initial Foster Report and bi-weekly Foster Reports are the key piece of information for matching a rescued pap with an adoption candidate. Please be specific. This is an excellent opportunity to speak on behalf of your foster.

• If your foster Pap is an owner surrender, from a shelter or other rescue group then

arrange for a vet clinic appointment immediately. A health checkup should be done as soon as possible as part of the vetting protocol included in this foster handbook. This is very important to protect yourself and your other dogs from any potential problems. It also is crucial for us to plan for vet expenses that may be needed. Of course any treatment needed and/or other testing should follow our Vetting Protocol guidelines. Please review our Vetting Protocol.

(NOTE: If your foster Pap is from a commercial or substandard breeder, we normally have already had the vetting completed prior to reaching you. But the first two items in this list still apply.)

• Here are the goals (in order) that we hope to achieve during fostering. These are the things you will be working on together with your Foster Team Leader. These are the minimum standards for PHR in order to help a rescued pap be ready for adoption and improve chances of a successful adoption.

o Restore Health o Socialize o House Train o Crate Train o Leash Train o Weight Management


• Communicate with our Foster Team Leader and/or appropriate Team Leader. Staying in touch is very important. Since email is our primary communications too, please read your email regularly.

• Be familiar with the PHR fostering resources available to you.



IF YOU PLAN TO FOSTER OR APOPT A MILL DOG

IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO READ THIS Important Tips for Your Puppymill Rescues Papillons that are rescued from puppy mills often have unique requirements as far as placement and also as far as adjustment. We place puppy mill rescues into new homes after varying levels of socialization/rehabilitation based on the dog and the adoptive family. Even if your dog has been in foster care for some time, the following tips might help explain some of your new rescue’s behavior. LEASH TRAINING Puppymill rescues have never been on leashes before. In the mill there was no need for them, so their first experience with a leash was most likely during transport and foster care and trips to the vet. It is wise to use a harness and leash with all mill rescues vs. a collar. Many are neck sensitive due to mishandling at the mill. They also can slip out of a collar much easier than with a harness. Start slow with leash desensitization - all walks need to be stress free - in your own backyard at first, then a quiet street, etc. Always be sure there are no noisy children or bicycles, etc. Use a soft voice, praise and treats every time you walk your pap. FEAR OF BEING HELD OR LIFTED Puppymill rescues were routinely mishandled and/or abused in their prior life. That leaves them with a strong fear of being lifted, approached from behind, grabbed, and touched over the head. Start slow with your mill rescue. Leave them on a long leash at first so you do not need to corner or chase them. Do not ever grab them from behind. Always let them see your outstretched hand and approach them from the front. Do not use sudden movements or fast approaches - slow and steady is the key to success. Quiet, easy petting while talking to them in a soothing voice is the right approach. TREATS/PRAISE Always have a steady stream of tempting treats on hand. Use canned cheese, liver treats and other highly detectable treats (stinky) to try and tempt them. Sit quietly on the floor with the dog and sprinkle treats around your feet/legs. Always give them a tidbit for every positive behavior. Ignore the negative. DIET Puppy mill rescues need an extremely high quality, easy to digest diet. We recommend quality kibble diet that with easy digestibility. Supplement diet with fresh fruits/vegetables and meat. Mill rescues benefit from Vitamin C and Eicosaderm supplement in their food. That helps with coat growth and dry skin. BATHING


Mill Rescues require gentle grooming with a shampoo/rinse designed for dogs with sensitive or dry skin. Natural shampoo products along with an oatmeal crème rinse work best. You’ll notice the yellowing of the coat diminishing after each bath. Soft bristled brushes are recommended. Gentle slow brushing is best.

HOUSETRAINING In a puppy mill, dogs live in wire cages out in the elements. They never learn to "hold it" and urinate/defecate whenever they feel the urge. Crate training will help your new mill rescue to learn to hold it. Do not expect them to hold it longer than four hours. Keep the dog and the crate spotless at all times. If they have a setback, do not get discouraged - this part of rehabilitation takes some time. Treat the new rescue as if it were a puppy. Leash them to your body and watch them all of the time - if you cannot watch them, crate them. Never punish the dog for an accident. They do not understand. Ignore the accidents and praise them when they potty outside. Never ever rub their nose in it or hit them (even lightly) with a newspaper. Be consistent and diligent, but do not stress over the housetraining – it will come in time. Trust us on this one.

TOYS Dogs rescued from puppy mills have never seen or played with toys. Do not expect your Pap to learn to play ball, etc. right away. Start out with non-threatening soft, lightweight toys. Just leave them lying around the house and eventually they will pick them up. OTHER PETS Mill rescues benefit greatly from a healthy, well-adjusted dog in the home. That is why we usually only place them in homes with other pets. They need to watch and learn from another dog. Your dog will guide the new rescue and teach them that life is ok and that humans are good. They normally form an amazing bond and become fast friends. FEARS Puppy mill dogs are raised without love, human contact or interaction. Many things will be foreign to a mill rescue that would not be to a dog raised in a home. Things such as fear of steps, furniture, different surfaces, grass, etc are to be worked thru slowly and carefully. Desensitizing your Pap to these different situations are all basically the same - go slow and use a lot of treats, praise and love. Placing treats on the steps for example, will entice your Pap to use them. Slowly place your Pap up on the couch next to you for petting and don't be upset if they won't stay up there with you for longer than a minute at first. Time is the key here. Introduce them to things such as a vacuum cleaner, broom, fly swatter, etc. by letting them see that it is nothing to fear. Give them praise/treats when they are near the object. Some things take longer than others but it will come in time. EATING POOP Cophragia is a habit that is common with mill rescues and although disgusting, it is not something to get all upset about. A high quality diet as mentioned above, supplemented with fresh pineapple, spinach or a digestive enzyme will stop this behavior. Our best advice is to keep your yard picked up and pick up after your pet (you are already out there


with your Pap since you need to praise him/her anyway.) If there is no poop, there is nothing to eat but the tasty treats you are offering. SOCIALIZATION After your pet trusts YOU completely (and not before), start taking them on trips to friends or to Petsmart/PetCo. Do not attempt this for 3 months minimum depending on the dog. Your new dog needs time to learn to love you and your family. You have a whole lifetime to show off your new Pap. Please do not rush this.

By Lisa Bakalars www.papillonrescue.org www.widogrescue.com CUR #550, HWT Member See Betsy's Story at www.nopuppymills.com/betsy.html Used with permission from Lisa Bakalars.



LOST DOG INSTRUCTIONS If you are a Pap Haven Rescue volunteer and one of our foster dogs has gotten away from you, please follow the following steps. These directions work if followed immediately!

1) Contact Pap Haven Directors and Foster Team Leader immediately by phone.

501-865-4442 or cell 501-815-2766. Next, contact your Foster Team Leader.

2) Call the local newspapers and place a "LOST DOG" ad. You need to do this immediately because many of them have early deadline cut offs. PHR WILL PAY FOR THIS. The ad needs to say these words (insert your phone number and PapHaven numbers):

"LOST ON TODAY'S DATE NEAR (your neighborhood and city)!!! Papillon !!! SMALL (color) DOG WEARING (color) COLLAR AND TAGS. $?00.00 REWARD FOR INFORMATION LEADING TO HIS/HER SAFE RETURN. CALL (ADD LOCAL

PHONE NUMBER) OR CELL PHONE (ADD LOCAL PHONE NUMBER) DAY OR NIGHT!"

3) Call the local police or sheriff. Your foster dog may have been stolen. File a police

report listing Papillon Haven Rescue as the owner.

4) Call all veterinarians in the area. Tell them that if your foster dog comes in injured, Pap Haven will pay all vet bills and will take whatever measures are needed to save his/her life. Give them the phone numbers of the Pap Haven contacts in case they need a credit card for treatment.

5) Put a message on your answering machine/voice mail that says,” If you are calling

about our lost Papillon, we are out frantically looking for him! Please call us on our cell phone (add local phone number).

6) Have friends and family make up posters like the one following and post them on

intersections within a five-ten mile radius of your home. PHR will reimburse you for materials used. PLEASE DO THIS after contacting the home office and placing the LOST DOG ad.

7) VISIT (in person) the animal shelters/pounds in your area daily. Tell them there is a

$?00.00 reward which will be paid to a shelter worker if our dog is found and returned to us alive. The shelter will remember your coming in person...and they will remember the reward.


8) Contact your local radio stations and tell them a rescued Pap is missing. Be sure to tell them if he/she is a puppy mill rescue and may be afraid of people. Ask them to please broadcast this to their listeners.

9) Please keep us updated as to any new developments.

Example poster follows:


LOST (today’s date) NEAR (address or crossing streets)

$?00.00 REWARD!!!

*** INSERT PICTURE HERE ***

SMALL (color) DOG!!

PAPILLON (pah pee yon)

LOOKS LIKE DOG WITH BUTTERFLY EARS AND FLUFFY TAIL

$?00.00 REWARD!!

(FOR INFORMATION LEADING TO HIS SAFE RETURN.)

(ADD LOCAL PHONE NUMBER) Call day or night!



Foster Forms Following this page will be many of the forms that you will be using during your time as a Foster Home for our precious Papillons. The Foster Guidelines Handbook is a work in progress and any suggestions, information or input would be appreciated. We all “learn as we go” when we do fostering so your experiences will be helpful to others. Please let us know what you would like to see added to this manual that will help the experienced as well as the new foster parents care for their charges. There will be additional “inserts” or an “add on” of different subject matters, but important for our continuing education. Please add these to your Foster Handbook. Remember that the Admin website lists everyone and their contact information. Please contact Jan Jorolan, your Foster Team Leader or Regional Leaders if you have questions, need help or just need someone to give you an ear for venting. Thank you again!



PAPHAVEN FOSTER BASE PROFILE (to be completed after the first week in your home AND updated as conditions or behavior change)

Foster Dog’s Name: __________________________ Date: ____________________________

Foster Parents Name: ________________________ State: ____________________________

1. Is dog on web page: YES/NO 2. Is dog ready for web page? If not, why: _______________________________________________ 3. Health Issues: ___________________________________________________________________ 4. Current Height: __________________________ Current Weight: __________________________ 5. Meds being given: ________________________________________________________________ HW preventative (brand): _________________ Date last given: _____________ 6. Behavior: Biter: YES/NO Barker: YES/NO Aggressive: YES/NO Good with small children: YES/NO Older children: YES/NO Good with other dogs: YES/NO Cats: YES/NO

Other pets: YES/NO (if yes, type): ________________________________________ Needs fenced yard: YES/NO Needs stay-at-home adopter: YES/NO Crate Trained: YES/NO House Trained: YES/NO Coprophagic (ingests feces): YES/NO Resource Guarder: YES/NO

Dominant (alpha) : YES/NO Playful with Toys: YES/NO Playful with other Dogs: YES/NO People: YES/NO

6. Issues that must be addressed to be ready for adoption (please list): ___________________ __________________________________________________________________________ 7. Estimate, if you are able, of when dog might be ready for adoption: _____________________ ______________________________________________________________________________ 8. Three to five adjectives that best describe your foster dog’s personality:____________________ ______________________________________________________________________________

NOTE: The information received from this detailed foster update form will be utilized by various PapHaven committees to ensure we have the most current/detailed profile of each dog in order to quickly determine the most suitable forever home for each dog. PLEASE COPY and PASTE this FORM into a new email body THEN fill it in and return to [email protected] and your regional team leader. Please include your name and state in the Subject Line. 12-09/jj


PAPHAVEN FOSTER BI-WEEKLY UPDATE (to be completed bi-weekly on Sunday and submitted to [email protected] and your regional team leader)

Foster Dog’s Name: ______________________________ Date: ______________________

Foster Parents Name: ____________________________ State: ______________________

1. Is dog on web page: YES/NO 2. What are the issues keeping the dog from being listed on the web page: ____________________ ______________________________________________________________________________ 3. Any new behavioral issues: YES/NO (if yes, describe) __________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________ 4. Any new health issues or change in medication: YES/NO (if yes, describe) __________________ ______________________________________________________________________________ 5. Meds being given: _______________________________________________________________

HW preventative (brand): ________________________ Date last given: ______________ 6. When would you anticipate the dog will be ready for adoption: _____________________________ 7. Please comment briefly on how training is progressing in the three areas below:

House Trained: ________________________________________________________________ Crate Trained: _________________________________________________________________ Leash Trained: _________________________________________________________________

8. Other comments: ________________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________________________ NOTE: If information pertaining to the type of home needed based on the dog’s behavior has changed since the original base profile was submitted, please submit an updated base profile. The information received from this detailed foster update form will be utilized by various PapHaven committees to ensure we have the most current/detailed profile of each dog in order to quickly determine the most suitable forever home for each dog. PLEASE COPY and PASTE this FORM into a new email body THEN fill it in and return to [email protected] and your regional team leader. Include your name and state in the Subject Line. 12/09 rf



IN CASE OF AN ACCIDENT In the event that I, _________________________________ am incapacitated and unable to make my wishes known regarding my dog(s), please honor the following requests: ________________________________________________is to be contacted as soon as possible at the following phone number: _____________________. Call collect and mention my name. If the above phone number cannot be reached, contact ________________________ at the following phone number ____________________. All expenses for the dog(s) will be paid by them. If the dog(s) are not injured, they are to be cared for by the nearest reputable boarding kennel, and be kept there in the best possible manner, until such time as arrangements can be made for their transport home. If the dog(s) are injured, they are to be cared for by the nearest reputable veterinarian, I prefer that my own veterinarian, _____________________________ at __________________________ , be contacted regarding decisions about the dog'(s) care and treatment. If any dog is injured beyond all hope of recovery, that dog is to be humanely euthanized. Photos and descriptions of my dog(s) are attached along with their health records. These dogs are tattooed on the _______________ or micro chipped with this/these identification numbers:_______________________________________ . The welfare of my dog(s) is my primary concern. Name: _________________________________________________________________ Address:________________________________________________________________ City, State, Zip: __________________________________________________________ Phone: _________________________________________________________________ Signed: _______________________________ Date: __________________________ OTHER EMERGENCY CONTACTS: NAME, ADDRESS, PHONE:__________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________________



Reimbursement Form

DOG'S NAME: __________________________________________________________ AMOUNT TO BE REIMBURSED: ____________________________________________ NANE OF PERSON REQUESTING EIMBURSEMENT:_____________________________ ______________________________________________________________________ ADDRESS: _____________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________________ PHONE NUMBER: _____________________________________________________ EMAIL ADDRESS: _____________________________________________________ REIMBURSEMENT CHECK SHOULD BE MAILED TO: (if different than above) NAME: ____________________________________________________________ ADDRESS: ____________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________________ PLEASE PRINT AND MAIL A COPY OF THIS COMPLETED FORM WITH THE ORIGINAL BILL/BILLS TO:

Papillon Haven Rescue c/o Jan Jorolan PO Box 20306 Hot Springs AR 71903

If you have questions direct them to:

Jan Jorolan [email protected] 501-865-4442

Donna Moore [email protected]

865-573-1309



TRANSFER AGREEMENT

Dog’s Name: ____________________________________________________________ Sex: ______ Age: _____ Color/Markings: ________________________________ Tattoo/Microchip number: ________________________ I hereby release and transfer guardianship of the aforementioned dog to: _______________________________ (Print the Name of the Next Guardian) I hereby release and transfer all papers, all vaccinations and veterinary records for the aforementioned dog, which has been obtained during the Rescue Process and/or Rehabilitation. It is acknowledged the rightful ownership of the aforementioned dog is with Papillon Haven Rescue. There shall be no release or transfer to persons as guardians other than those determined by Papillon Haven Rescue. I hereby release Papillon Haven Rescue, Representatives and Volunteers from all past, current and future expenses or liability, incurred during my guardianship of the aforementioned dog, except as agreed. Signed: _______________________________________ Date: _________________ (Person Transferring to New Guardian) Signed: _______________________________________ Date: _________________ (Person Accepting as New Guardian Receiving Dog) The Transfer form is used when your foster is being sent to his or her forever home or to a different foster home. You will use this form if you are not the person delivering the doggie to its new home. A copy of this form is needed for each person that will help in the transport of your foster to its next destination.



ADOPTION FEES

0 - 3 years = $400 4 - 6 years = $350 7 - 9 years = $300 10 - ? years = $250 Special = older/blind/etc = to be determined Pap mix - $125- 250 The adoption fee covers The charge to “pull” the dog from a shelter (most shelters charge approx. $95-150) Vet expenses including

• Full health check-up • Spay/neuter (all rescue Paps will be spayed and/or neutered PRIOR to adoption) • Vaccines including rabies • Heartworm test and treatment if needed Heartworm preventative • Any other vet expenses such as a dental or hernia repair • Brucellosis test when needed

NOTE: The ADOPTION FEE is to help defray expenses for ALL Papillons and/or Papillion mixes in our rescue program.



Holiday Adoptions

As most of you know, there is always a demand for doggies (and other animals) for Christmas and Holiday presents. And as many of you know, this is a VERY traumatic time for bringing in a new pet to a home full of decorations, parties, family gatherings, noise, yummy foods, and all the other things that go along with the holiday season. It has been the policy and practice of our PHR group from the beginning to stop delivery of adoptions on or about the 15th of December. This is in the best interest of the rescued Pap as they need lots of adjustment time in the new surroundings and attention. We will neither stop taking adoption applications nor stop making adoptions. But adoptions approved during this time will be delivered AFTER the holidays. Just for your information: it is estimated that well over 50 percent of animals given as gifts for Christmas or other Holidays do not find a forever home and/or have a negative traumatic event.



General Fostering Policy Summary (As stated in various PHR documents and forms)

• Vetting needs MUST have an estimate prior to event. Any amounts at or above $250 require pre-approval.

• Within the Vet Clinic record it must be stated this Pap is owned by PHR. It

may not be shown as owned by the foster mom/dad.

• PHR Vetting Protocol must be followed and a copy given to the Vet Clinic. PHR will only pay for items listed on the Vetting Protocol without prior agreement.

• Re-imbursement request MUST be received within 30 days of transaction.

• Minimum fostering period of three weeks with required update reports and

conferencing with Foster Team Leader and Adoption Team Leader. (Possible exception on time only)

• Feeding Requirements are a quality kibble except in approved and/or RX

situations.

• ALL PHR paps will be maintained on HW preventative YEAR ROUND.

• PHR Foster Handbook is required reading for all foster moms/dads and should be printed out for reference. The current handbook can always be downloaded from the Paphaven Admin site for reference.

• No PHR Rescue Pap may be given to or left with a potential adopter or

interested party until the Adoption Process is completed and approved by Adoption Team.

• Registration and original paper work must be sent to Jan Jorolan immediately.

Registration papers are confidential and do not follow the pap to adopters.

• Admin Site (http://admin.paphaven.org/) is a ready reference for anything having to do with Paphaven or any documents required. All foster moms/dads need to be proficient in access and use of the PapHaven Administrative (Admin) site. Instructions and/or coaching available upon request.

• Christmas Holiday Adoptions will not take place after the second week in

December however application processing will continue. Placement will begin after the first of the year.

• Transporting any of our paps requires a harness with leash plus collar with tags. Paps MUST travel in a hard sided crate at all times. The harness should be of the


standard style, not figure 8 or step-in style. PHR tags are provided to all foster homes.

• PapHaven does not air ship our rescue papillons.

• Required Documents for each foster mom/dad. (forms are available from the ADMIN web) 1. Foster Application 2. Home Visit performed/report 3. General Representative Application (membership requirement) 4. Bite Waiver