Harry’s Cosmeticology

Harry’s CosmeticologyEighth Edition

Edited by Martin M. Reiger, Ph.D.

Chemical Publishing Co., Inc.

Chemical Publishing Co., Inc., 743 Western Avenue, Gloucester, MA 01930www.chemcial-publishing.comwww.chemicalpublishing.net

© 2000, by Chemical Publishing Co., Inc.All rights reserved. 8th edition, 2000 This book is protected by copyright. No part of it may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval systemor transmitted in any form or by any means; electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording orotherwise, without the prior written permission of the publisher.

ISBN 0-8206-0372-4

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Harry, Ralph Gordon, 1908-[Cosmeticology]

Harry’s cosmeticology-8th ed. Volume 1/edited by Martin M. Rieger.p.cm.

Includes bibliographical references and index.ISBN 0-8206-0372-4

1. Cosmetics. I. Title: Cosmeticology. II. Rieger, Martin, M., 1920- III. Title. TP983 H32 2000668’.55-dc21

00-035900

Made in the United States of America

Contents

Foreword viiList of Contributors by Chapter xAlphabetical List of Contributors xiChapter Contributors xiii

PART ONE: THE SUBSTRATES 1

1 Skin 32 The Hair 393 The Nails 714 Anatomy and Physiology of Ocular Tissue 795 The Mouth and Oral Care 87

PART TWO: FORMULATION APPROACHES AND REQUIREMENTS 109

6 Fundamentals of Cosmetic Product Development:Getting Started 111

7 Regulatory Requirements for Cosmetic Products 1298 Intellectual Property Issues: Patents and Trade Secrets 175

PART THREE: COMMON INGREDIENTS AND PROCESSES 185

9 Surfactants 18710 Cosmetic Emulsification 21111 Rheological Additives 23512 Antioxidants 24713 Moisturizers and Humectants 26114 Preservation 27315 Use of Botanicals in Cosmetics 305

v

vi Contents

16 Specialty Lipids 32317 Aerosol Technology 333

PART FOUR: FORMULATION AND PERFORMANCE 349

18 Skin Care Products 35119 Miscellaneous Skin Care Products: Skin Bleaches and Others 39320 Sunscreens 41521 Antiperspirants and Deodorants 43722 Antiacne and Oily Skin Products 45923 Face, Body and Hair Masks and Scrubs 47124 Skin Cleansing Products 48525 Shaving Preparations 50126 Color Cosmetics 52327 Nail Polishes 57328 Specialty Nail Products 58929 Shampoos 60130 Hair Setting Products 63531 Hair Colorants 66932 Permanent Waving, Hair Straightening and Depilatories 69533 Oral Care Products 72534 Safety and Performance 755

PART FIVE: PRODUCTION 785

35 The Manufacture of Cosmetics 78736 Packaging 87537 Stability 889

Index 901