FOREWORD

Korkyra Exotica

In other words, “Distinct Korčula”, is my fond, baby-like babbling to the island situated in

the Adriatic. On that very same island is a little dot on the globe, where I was born, called

Vela Luka. Oh, the amount of pride I derive from the fact it is my place of birth! It is

unfathomable just how much bliss my soul invokes whenever a single picture, a written word

or a spoken one, gives rise to the vision of my native place, especially its western part, the one

that clearly reveales its specificity. Although, the gratest excitement for me is when I, myself,

''...see the azure sea and green pines '', when I feel the direct contact with Korčula, when I am

in the tangible contact with her, and all that because of the desire to achieve the state of

primeval love between Nature and Man, what I feel for my native place. That very symbiosis

has determined my consciousness for all times, in a way that every native place connects with

its offspring. Am I able, so in love with my island, be objective when describing the beauties

and allure of Korčula, especially to a person coming from a different native place, a

completely different natural ambient? Don’t the beautiful photographs from this monography

speak enough about it? Some might say that all this is just an eulogy, like every other

promotional description and display. However, I overwhelningly want to add my vision, as I

stated earlier, of Distinct Korčula, because I think it is paramount for foreigners and tourists

to know where to go when they wanto to visit an exotic place on the Mediteranean (and

wider), by a jacht ot a car, not only in the summer time. What is the Distinct Korčula or

Korkyra Exotica? What does she offer that is different from other offes out there? There are

several features:

The island Korčula is an absolutely distinct climatic oasis of the entire Adriatic

archipelago. This is conditioned with the unique climatic phenomenon around the islands

Sušac and Palagruža that gives rise to the desert-like dry summers. Also, all the while it

snows, there is frost, or rains all around Korčula, there is none of it on the island. Just

because of these conditions, the vegetation has adapted and is lush and exceptional

(Corcyra Nigra).

The island Korčula is exposed to the high seas of the Adriatic along its entire length,

absorbing all the effects of the open seas. Its shores are thus frequently under turbulent

conditions, but the ports and many bays offer the salvation to every Odyssey.

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Once one finally finds himself or herself on the island of sorceress Circe, the newcomer

starts uncover the spells cast. First of all, because of the beforementioned climate and the

special type of soil, a most wonderous species of olive trees thrives here, the most

peculiar olive-tree sorts of the entire Mediterranean: Lastovka, Drobnica and Orgula.

Lastovka and Drobnica, because of the barren soil present, produce oils used to obtain

the most delicious olive oil in the World.

Korčula is a wine-rich region that has several World-class sorts of the white wine: Grk,

Pošip, Rukatac. However, well-known red wines are also recently produced here,

Pagadebit and Babić, with grape vines kept in the numerous enclosed areas (terraces),

which stretch even today like spider web all over the surrounding hills, but have

owergrown with bushes with time. These desolate drywalls remain as reminiscences of

Korčula’s labourers, who have, in the last two hundred years, built a World miracle of

drywall construction, with their bare hands. Nowadays, ancient, donkey side roads,

owergrown and mostly impassable lead to them. From myriad ancient houses scattered

over the vineyards, only the ruins remain.

The inhabitants of the island Korčula still have some illyric and antic dishes on their

menus. They eat raw sea urchins, raw limpets (lumpar), as well as various vegetarian

dishes fried on oil, especially the specialty made of cabbage (raštika), as well as the

dishes dating from the times of scarcity, etc.

I will not omit around a hundred local customs that take place during the entire time of

the year (ritualistic burnings, burnings of incense, regattas...).

Lastly, after all the mentioned particularities, all I am left to say is: Korčula is a female

name, which is quite a rarity among the islands of the Adriatic and she is surrounded by

such handsome lads as: Hvar, Vis, Lastovo, Sušac, Mljet. All of this is certainly not

without a good reason!

Žuvela Branko - Doda

1. AN INTRODUCTORY NOTE ON KORČULA

How to begin the story of such an unusual and beautiful island, one that bears a

feminine name and a unique landscape? Korčula extends in parallel with the Croatian

coastline, 46.8 kilometres in length and from 5.3 to 7.8 kilometres in width. According to size

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(276 square kilometres), it is the 6th biggest island of the Adriatic. Its southern coast courts the

horizons of the open seas; its north-eastern side craves for the peninsula Pelješac. They are

divided by a channel, twenty kilometres long and 1270 metres wide at its narrowest point.

Korčula is adorned by various coastal reliefs, 182 kilometres in circumference, as well as

cliffs and islets additional 54 kilometres in circumverence. On the northern shores exist sparse

bays, which are shielded from the southern and eastern winds. The southern waterfront is

more indented and steeper, at times some thirty metres high and thus protect the fertile fields

from winds that carry the sea water (posolica). The southern coastline is also adorned with the

pearly islets and cliffs. The most shielded island bay is the bay of Vela Luka. The relief is

dominated with calcareous massifs that are from 300 to 550 metres of height above sea level.

Most of the Korčula is owergrown with Aleppo pine. The remains of the indigenous, ever-

green forests of bearberry, edelweiss and macchia are sporadic and located in the areas

without cultivated plantations of grape wine, olive trees and citrus. The island was inhabited

since pre-historic times, with the traces of ancient civilizations found in the western, eastern

and north-eastern parts of the island. From an archeological point of view, Vela Spila, the

neolitic archeological site overlooking Vela Luka is the most important one. In the 6th century

BC, the island was colonized by Greeks, who called it Corcyra Melaina. In the 1st century

AD, the Romans arrived. In the 7th century Slavs spread out to Korčula. After the rule of the

Venetian Republic and the Napoleon, the English took over and then ultimately the Ausro-

Hungarian Empire that rooled Korčula by the end of the 1st World war.

2. TRANSPORTATION CONNECTIONS OF THE KORČULA ISLAND

Korčula has been an important maritime hub since the antiquity. The corridor that

links it to Italy: Vela Luka - Lastovo - Gargano, is approximately seventy nautical miles long.

Through north, Korčula used to be connected via Viganj, situated on the island Pelješac. The

sentries on Pupnat were notified with the use of signal fires that there were travellers awaiting

the transportation boat.

3. RELIGION, ISLAND CHURCHES, CHAPELS

Religion was basis for the organisation of cultural life and bonding of the island

populace. Korčula has 137 recorded sanctuaries. These are valuable tourist resources. Until

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year 1185, there were no recorded data regarding the history of sacral buildings already built,

while from 1338 onward, there exists an ample written material.

4. CITY KORČULA AND THE SIGHTS

The town of Korčula is unusual, because its pattern of intersecting streets resembles a

fishbone. It is a medieval model for building settlements, suited to the hot summers and the

geomorphological characteristics of the soil. The city is divided into two parts; the dividing

line is a central street that widens into a town square that, in turn, sits in front of a cathedral.

Only 8 towers remain, from 12 former ones. The town’s historic centre is a protected heritage

site. In the year 1904, the first public swimming beach was put in order and about ten years

after that the first multilingual tourist leaflet was printed in the Wienna. Special tourist

attractions are the thematic carnivals, held from the middle of January, to the Ash Wednesday,

at the end of February. The participants clothe in accordance with the present events, also,

children masquerades are held.

5. THE HOUSE OF MARKO POLO

The Legend of Marko Polo is a touristic curiosity of the town of Korčula. Thus, in the

year 1995, Korčula was the starting point for the international expedition of the European

youth, named “In the wake of Marko Polo”. The legend of Marko Polo was inspired with the

historic naval battle which was fought in the year 1298, in the vicinity of the city. Back then,

the fleets of Venice and Genova clashed. Marko Polo was captured during the fight. The

House of Marko Polo, situated in the centre of the Korčula’s old city is now a museum. The

panorama of the Pelješac channel, a view visible from the window of this aged house will

enthrall every single chance traveller. The Legend of Marko Polo attracts more and more

tourists and numerous celebrities. As late as the seventies of the 20 th century, the Summer

philosophical school was organised in Korčula and gathered numerous philosophers from all

over the World. Marilyn Sharp, the American author, also stayed here at this very time.

Inspired by the climate of intellectual discussions, in the eighties she published the novel

Master stroke. The scenes of the novel mostly take place in Korčula. Through this literary

creation, the legend of Marko Polo became a part of world literature. Every year the

manifestation Return to the age of Marko Polo takes place. Then, tourists are offered

authentic dishes from ancient times, concerts and various art manifestations and events are

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held. Also, the international Marko Polo Fest, founded by a contemporary enthusiast, Ivan

Šegedin, is held every summer, since 1996.

6. ST. MARK’S CATHEDRAL

Three-aisled, triple-apse basilica with an elevated middle section is the most valuable

heritage monument of Korčula. Its high bell tower characterizes the centre of the old city. The

most beautiful external and internal decorations were carved in the second half of the 15 th

century by a local architect, Marko Andrijić. The chosen Korčula’s builders left their

individual marks during the 150 years it took to complete the basilica. Next to the cathedral is

the town hall, The abbey threasury (Opatska riznica) and the City museum. The abbey

threasury contains valuable exhibits, displayed in seven grand halls. Most valuable are

illuminated manuscripts dating from the 12th century, gold-embroidered attire, gold, silver and

porcelain items, medieval ceramics, numismatic rarities, as well as the valuable household

furniture dating from the various island’s historical periods.

7. MOREŠKA

Mediterranean Romantic dance dating from the 12th century, transferred from Spain in

the year 1571. Nowadays, Moreška is a part of cultural tradition. The dance is performed by

two groups of people, each called moreškant – white ones, dressed in red clothes and black

ones, wearing black. The fighters are led by the kings (kraljevi), who fight over Bula, the

fiancée of the white king (bijeli kralj), which was abducted by the black king’s (crni kralj)

son - Moro. In the introductory part, Bula rejects Moro, after which follows sfida – the

challenge and Moro’s dance, as well as the sword conflict. The seven scenes – kolap’s are

accompanied by a woodwind orchestra. The dancing tempo and the clash of swords

intensifies as the dance progresses. The white side, a symbol of good, always prevails and

returns Bula to the white king. Every family from Korčula has at least one active dancer -

moreškant, and the children learn the steps since elementary school. On the stage, the dancers

quite vigorously hit with the swords, therefore much strength and agility is needed in order to

avoid injuries.

8. DOMINICAN MONASTERY AND THE CHURCH OF ST. NICHOLAS

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In the year 1420, the local assembly of noblemen, Korčulansko vijeće plemića,

authorised the construction of a monastery on the cape of St. Nicholas (Rt Svetog Nikole).

During the Turkish siege of Korčula, in the 1571, the monastery was burned. During the

reconstruction, in the year 1657, the north part of the building was added. The monastery has

a picture of The martyrdom of St. Peter, (Mučeništvo Svetog Petra), on display, a copy of the

burned Tizian’s painting from Venice. The people of Korčula have, in the begining of the

18th century, financed the procurement of church organs trough donations. The monastery

was sacked in 1808 and the English handed it back to the Dominicans in 1831. In 1927 the

bells were added and their chime marks tumultuous historical events ever since.

9. THE CHURCH OF ST. ANTUN

From the centre of Korčula, at about half an hour of walking distance is the Glavica of

St. Antun, a hill with a lookout point. One hundred and two steps lead to the apex of the hill,

trough an alley of cypress trees that were planted in 1708. In the 14 th century, the church of St.

Antun the Hermit (Sv. Antuna Pustinjaka) was built on the hill. It was renovated at the end of

the 17th century, with a baroque portal and windows. It is a protected heritage monument,

dedicated to St. Antun of Padova (Sv. Antun Padovanski). These historical events, trough

recollection, come to life each year on the 13th of June, the holiday of St. Antun.

10. LUMBARDA

A municipality with more than a 1000 people, located on the north-eastern part of the

island, 6 kilometres away from the town Korčula. Lumbarda is adorned with two sand coves.

Among the traditional agriculture, fishing and lapidary, tourism is quite developed nowadays.

The first inhabitants of Lumbarda were the Illyrians, who settled during the Bronze and Iron

Ages. The Greek settlement was founded in the beginning of the 3rd century. After the

campaign of Emperor Octavian, in the year 35 AD, Romans broke into the area. From that

period are the remains of Villa rustica, located in the field, in the north-east of the present-day

settlement, as well as the remains of the thermal system with the corresponding barrow in the

regions Koludrt and Sutivan. In the nearby islands, Sutvari, Vrnik and Kamenjak are ancient

Roman quarries. The continuing colonization of Lumbarda starts during the Venetian

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Republic’s rule of Dalmatia, after the year 1420. In the 15 th century, citadels (kaštel) were

built, which had a defensive function. The oldest preserved, situated in the bay Bili žal,

belongs to the diocese and was built in the 15th century. Preserved are also Cankin and Nobilo

kaštel, above the Tatinja bay, kaštel Milina and Kršinić, as well as the tower located in Velo

Poje. Sacral objects are also being built at these very times. On the hill, in the central part of

the old settlement, on Vela glavica, is a three-aisled parish church of St. Roko. There are

several smaller chapels in the town: St. Bartul, St. Peter, and Mala Gospa. The chapel of St.

Cross (Sv. Križ), situated in the field and surrounded with vineyards, was built in 1774, on the

remains of an ancient building. In the 17th and 18th century, Lumbarda became the rural

destination for Korčula’s bishops and noblemen. The villa of Manola, bishop of the town of

Split, built in 1655 on Mala Glavica, is in the possession of the Markovina family. A rich

cultural and historical heritage, folk customs, the unusual landscape and the renowned wine

Grk all make Lumbarda quite extraordinary.

11. ŽRNOVO

Žrnovo, the settlement that has around a thousand inhabitants is first mentioned in the

early medieval times. Although about only 4 kilometres away from the town of Korčula, this

settlement has an aura of a place completely out of time. The settlement is dominated by the

parish church of St. Martin (14th century), built on the rocky slope, somewhat hidden by the

crowns of the hundred-year-old pines. Žrnovo is made up of the following hamlets: Prvo Selo,

Kampuš, Postrana and Brdo. Along the old rock houses, with porches and paved courtyards,

there still exist low sheds built into the dry wall. Among the historic remains in Postrana,

there is a preserved citadel of the Baničević family. The facade contains their coat of arms and

an inscription in Latin, written about the most prominent member of the family, Jakov

Baničević, a well-known European humanist from the 16th century. On the slope of the hill is

the church of St. Roko. In front of the church are a square and the hundred-year-old trees -

Koštili. This square is the place where the sword game Moštra is traditionally held. Outside of

the settlement are the cemetery and the church of St. Vid, dating from the 13th century. Žrnovo

is the birth place of several of Korčula’s artists, sculptor Radoslav Duhović, graphic artist

Nikola Skokandić, as well as the painters Ante Radovanović, Frane Cebal and Abel Brčić.

Author and academician Petar Šegedin is also from Žrnovo. The inhabitants used to primarily

deal with viticulture, olive-growing, vegetable-growing and lapidary. Nowadays they are

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mostly employed in construction industry, with an increasingly developing tourism. The rows

of beautiful tourist apartments are built in the bays Žrnovska Banja, Medvidnjak, and

Vrbovica. Several cultural and artistic societies also operate in Žrnovo; Mišnice and Bratska

sloga and are the reason behind settlement’s vibrant life during the winters as well.

12. RAČIŠĆE

Račišće is built in the bay of the same name, in the northern coastline of the island

Korčula. It is connected to the main island road via a local street that leads to the town of

Korčula. The street 12 kilometres long winds alongside the coastline, trough the beautiful

bays of: Medvidnjak , Banja, Vrbovica and Kneže. The sea below the road is courted by

beautiful, natural beaches. Tourist accommodation in this area is primarily consisted of

ordered auto camps, as well as rows of modern family apartments and villas. In the ancient

fishing settlement of Kneža, remains of a valuable Roman mosaic were found and in Banja,

peculiar remains of ancient Roman buildings were found. Nowadays, some six hundred

inhabitants live in Račišće. Written sources indicate that the settlement was built in the 17 th

century, in the time when refugees from Hercegovina and littoral Makarska area sought

refuge from the Turkish hordes. The local populace used to deal with fishing, cattle breeding

and agriculture. Nowadays, tourism has developed. However, Račišće has and always will be

the settlement of mariners, because – one has to sail, for one has to live. Hibernating during

the winter, in the summer the tourists bring Račišće to life. Before the settlement, scattered in

the azure of the Pelješac channel are islets, approachable during the tourist season via daily

excursions. Although Račišće is in the outskirts of the town of Korčula, in the summer it

offers tourists peace, quiet and solitude, all the terms long forgotten in the typical tourist

settlements of Dalmatia. Of all the monument heritage sites in Račišće, one should definitely

pay a visit to the Church of Madonna (Crkva Bogorodice), built in the year 1682. The more

recent parish church of St. Nicholas was built at the end of the 19th century. Regardless of the

increasing tourist visits to Račišće, this settlement still offers privacy in the peak of the tourist

season. It still remains as one of the undiscovered tourist pearls of Korčula.

13. PUPNAT

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It is one of the oldest five island settlements, built on the edge of a plateau. It is

connected via roads to Žrnova and Kneža, hubs of an ancient sea-borne route to Pelješac. The

routes along the Klupca massif, made in the antique period, led then to old Pupnat, a

settlement to the north of the present-day village. The populace have always dealt with

agriculture, nowadays, they also deal with tourism. By the sea, under the village is the

Pupnatska Luka, a bay with a beautiful gravel beach. Some valuable sacral monuments are in

Pupnat. The parish church, Our Lady of the Snows (Gospa od Snijega) dates from the 17th

century and the church of St. Jurje, situated on the local cemetery, from the 14th century. After

the plague epidemic, the church of St. Roko was built, in honour of the patron saint, protector

from plague. At Pupnat is also the convent of nuns, Treći red Sv. Frana. The oldest

monument is the tombstone with an inscription in Latin, preserved in the lapidary of the

family Kapor, at the town of Korčula.

14. ČARA

In this settlement of wine-growers, exposed to the sunlight since the early morning

hours to the sunset, live approximately seven hundred inhabitants. Stone houses look like they

have been transferred straight from provincial baroque, with numerous sculptured crosses.

The trademark of the village is the local almond, which used to be exported in the past. A part

of this settlement is also the bay of Zavalatica, 2 kilometres away, along with the beach Žitna

and the tourist apartments. In the centre of Čara is a parish church of St. Peter from the 15th

century and in the field, among the vineyards, is a local cemetery and the votive church

Gospa Carskog Polja, from the 14th century. The mystique of the church is closely linked to

the legend that states how a local girl had a vision of the Blessed Virgin Mary at the bay -

Čavića luci. Spiritual life took place in the churches of St. Peter, St. Jurja, St. Nicholas, St.

Barbara, St. Stjepan, St. John, et cetera. The connection to the local sense of identity is

affirmed trough the historical roots of the populace, a connection preserved since the Illyrian

times.

15. SMOKVICA

In this settlement, situated on the slopes of the hill Vela Obala and Mala Obala, today

live one thousand inhabitants. It is 29 kilometres away from Korčula and is known for the

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bottling shop and the production of the first Croatian white wines with a protected

geographical status - Pošip and Rukatac, (1967). The term Smokvica originates from ancient

times and signifies the dividing causeway. The municipality Smokvica is made up of villages

Smokvica, Brna, Vinačac, Blaca and Istruga. It is surrounded with fertile fields: Kruševo,

Prapratna, Stiniva, Banja, Sitnica, Livin dol, Čipojino polje and Dračevica. The tourist

attractions consist of antique ceramics, old Greek wine and olive presses, the remains of

Greek and patrician citadels, as well as the early medieval churches. From the sacral

monuments, the most important is the neo-romantic church Purification of Our Lady

(Gospina očišćenja), built in the 1920, on the place of a former sanctuary.

16. BRNA

The panorama of the tourist settlement on the peninsula Mali Zaglav is adorned by the

hotel Feral. In the eastern part of the bay is an old settlement with a small port, on the west is

the bay Istruga. In front of the Brno are islets Vrhovnjak, Crklica, Stupa, Otočac and

Sridnjak. In the eastern cape of the bay of Brna a cross is carved, in memory of Ivan Pecotić –

Antušin. This hero from Brno was cowardly killed at night by Neretva’s pirates, in order to

avenge other pirates who fell victim to the hero’s iron bar.

17. ISTRUGA

Rich deposits of Liman, the therapeutic marine mud can be found in the bay of

Istruga, which is located, some 500 metres inward, and west of Brna. The bay ends in a sandy

beach, approximately 200 metres wide. The measured mud deposits are 6 metres deep and

sprawl some 300 metres under the sea. Microclimatic conditions, because of the soil

configuration and mud deposits are well suited for medical tourism.

18. PRIŽBA

Prižba has been charted in the tourist map of Korčula thanks to the camp and a family

catering business, 4 kilometres from the coastline. Prižba remained what it had always been –

a resort for local families. The tourist community was named after the peninsula Prišćapac,

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well-known for its gravel beach. At the peninsula Ratak is a Sisters of Mercy monastery

(Sestara Milosrdnica). The lighthouse keeper family Žuvela originates from Prižba: the

robust Nikica and his son Tomi are currently working on the island of Palagruža.

19. BLATO

Municipality of Blato constitutes of 2 settlements, the village Blato with 3700

inhabitants and Potirna, with only a handful of families in rural households. The oldest island

village sprawls over 7 hills, on the central western part of the island, alongside a fertile karst

field. It is built on the plain area of Zlinje, whose name bears the main street avenue, flanked

with lime-trees on both sides. On the northern shore, the municipality encompasses the area

bounded by the bay in the west and the bay Babina in the east. In the south, it encompasses

the bay of Slatina in the west and Vinačca in the east. During the reign of the Austro-

Hungarian Empire, the main port of Blato was Prigradica, 3 kilometres due north. In the old

centre of the settlement is a parish All Saints Church (Svih Svetih), whose construction started

in the middle ages. Contemporary appearance and the bell tower both date from the baroque

period. Next to the church is the collection of art, valuables and archaeological findings. The

oldest sacral object is the church of St. Kuzma and Damjan from the 6th century. A place of

great importance is also the sanctuary of the Blessed Mary of Jesus Crucified (Svetište blažene

Marije Propetog Isusa) located in the monestary of the Daughters of Mercy (Družba Kćeri

Milosrđa). The nobleman built citadels at the Blato, too, among which is the prominent

baroque villa Ameri. Tourists are also interested in Blatsko ljeto (held from the 15th of July to

the 15th of August). Nowadays, the village has 15 active cultural organizations and societies

that preserve folklore. The soccer club Zmaj was founded in 1926 and the gymnastics

organisation Hrvatski sokol Blato in 1906. After the Second World War, the textile plant

begins its operation, along with the factory producing marine equipment - Radež. The

company Blato 1902 trades with wine, oil and other agriculture produce. Nowadays, it

represents a distinguished brand of the island Korčula, as well as the main island village.

20. PRIGRADICA

A small fishing settlement located on the north-western coast of Korčula, surrounded

by vineyards and olive-groves, served as a loading port for wine and olive oil produced in

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Blato. The great stone waterfronts as well as the pier were constructed by the Austro-

Hungarian Empire. A trademark of Prigradica is one of the last islander highlanders, Ante

Petković Piškulić, who is the keeper of a nearby lighthouse, Pločice, the very same lighthouse

his grandfather used to keep.

21. THE FIELD OF BLATO

In contrast to the neighbouring islands, the water sources have always assured life for the

inhabitants of Korčula. The field of Blato was also important for its water supply. In the 1912

a lake was dried, its surface at 1.24 km2, located in the biggest and economically most

important island vale. During the winter, the dried lake filled with water, thanks to

precipitation. In the rainy months, the lake flooded, washing over the surrounding plantations.

It was dried with the use of melioration channels and drainage tunnels, which took the water

to the north coast of the island. With this wise decision made by island leaders, the

prerequisite conditions for developing agriculture on a much wider area were achieved. The

field of Blato nowadays includes great farm land, as well as the slopes of nearby hills, planted

with olive-trees and grape vines. The area is rugged with drywalls that denoted the borders of

arable land that water used to overflow.

22. VELA LUKA

Bay of Vela Luka is, geologically and morphologically, an extension of the fault line

that is 25 kilometres in length, which starts in the central part of the island, stretching to the

west via several smaller, karst vales. The inlet Kale is the part of the Vela Luka bay that is

deepest inward into the land. This means it is completely shielded from the winds coming

from all the directions. The bay of Vela Luka broadens with an array of inlets. The special

ornaments are the islets Ošjak and Proizd. On the Proizd is the beach Bili Boci, which has

won the title of the Adriatic Beach of the Year (Plaže godine na Jadranu). In the base of the

bay is Vela Luka, the biggest settlement on the whole island, a home for 5000 inhabitants. It

located 42 kilometres from the town of Korčula. The settlement developed in the beginning of

the 19th century. There are several hotels in Vela Luka, quite a few tourist agencies, as well as

the treatment centre for rheumatic diseases - Kalos. The tourist agency, Mediterano offers

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specialised tours of Korčula. The populace of Vela Luka nowadays deals with agriculture,

fishing and tourism. The shipyard Greben has preserved the traditional shipbuilding methods;

also, there are several smaller production and economic plants. The cultural centre is situated

in the renovated baroque building, an old villa that contains a valuable archaeological

collection from the Vele spile finding site, as well as the neighbouring archeological sites of

Roman culture. There is also a collection of contemporary art: paintings, graphics, and

sculptures made by domestic and foreign artists who have donated it to Vela Luka. The chapel

of St. Vicenzo dates from the year 1589. Vela Luka is a birthplace of artist Izvor Oreb, Gorki

Žuvela, poet Danijel Dragojević, academician Šime Vučetića, sculptor Ante Marinović,

author Branko Žuvela - Doda, singers Oliver Dragojević and Jasna Zlokić.

23. KUMPANJIJA

Kumpanjija is an ancient knightly ritual dance, performed in Čara, Smokvica, Blato

and, recently, Pupnat. Kumpanjija performed in Pupnat has similarities with other games of

this type, but also certain specificity – the connection with Moštra that is performed in

Žrnovo. Formerly, in order to perform kumpanija, one had to request the permission from the

supreme king of kumpanija, situated in Pupnat. The critical reason behind this fact was the

importance of Pupnat as the main sentry post in Korčula. This ancient cavalier’s dance is

performed with a longsword and is most frequently done in Blato. During the performance,

drums and mišnice (an instrument resembling bagpipes) were played and the dialogue was

constantly present. The dancers are clad in antique, ornate attire, performing 18 different

dance figures. The kumpanjija depicts the fight between the enemies lead by Serdar and the

domestic military lead by Kapitano. A special kind of scenography is made in order to enable

the dance with the flag and in order to utilise its specific 3-metre long pole and its spinning

around. At the end of the dance, the men are joind by the females wearing antique costumes

and they together dance tanac along with the Kumpanjol. The swords and the movements of

the warriors - kumpanjols symbolise the act of defending from the enemies. Kumpanjija

represents a conflict between good and evil. In the end, the good prevails over evil, the

present vanquishes the past. Kumpanjijas were origionally founded as peasant military units,

modelled after the Italian defense against the pillaging skirmishes that came from the sea.

According to the research, the Kumpanjija originates from the distant past, the Mesolithic

(“Middle Stone Age”) era. Kumpanjija ends with the 13th point (punat), druga škrima, and the

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swords are laid into a star-like pattern (zvizda). With that last figure – the star, it is

symbolically shown that love and life always prevail and win over hatred and death.

Pošip, you old drop

Behold our beautiful fields, owerflowed are the sweet sails of grapes.But for me one is the best, shines as gold and reigns.Loza Pošip is a prominent wine, one we take pride in today.Hardworking labor of our farmer made it a hero.

Oh, Pošip, drop of the wine golden, you unlock the gates of the emperor.

Auntie Vjeka from Brno

Pošipe kapljo stara

Pogledajte naša lipa poja, prepuna su slatka jedra grozja.Ali za me jedno je najbolje, u lozama zlati i kraljuje.Loza Pošip čuveno je vino, s kojim danas mi se ponosimo.Vridne muke našega težaka, učinile od njega junaka.

Pošipe, kapljo vina zlatna, ti otvaraš careva vrata.

Teta Vjeka iz Brne

24. HUM FORTRESS

Heavy, ancient, metal gates situated on the hill Hum, to the south of Vela Luka, hide

the ghosts of the past. From the lookout point, the three towers and a single spire, it is as

though Vela Luka and the surrounding landscape is in the palm of ones hand. Massive walls

and the mystic rooms leave a distinct impression; it is as if an Austro-Hungarian soldier were

to immediately walk out of the fortress, clad in a parade uniform. This is true especially

during the quiet summer nights, while thousands of stars are mirrored on the sea surface and

all the wile moonlight shines down on this fort of ghosts.

25. VELA SPILA

On the slopes of the Pinski rat, a hill situated 130 metres above the bay of Kala is a

unique, insular, archeological curiosity. Through an entrance approximately ten metres wide

and four metres high, one enters into the elliptical space, fifty meters long and thirty metres in

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diameter. The semicircular top has 2 openings at the hight of 17 metres – Velo ždrilo and

Malo ždrilo, with the first 11x9 metres and the latter 5x4 metres.

26. OLIVE TREES AND OLIVE-GROWING

According to legend, the olive tree was bought to the island by the Greeks. In the year

1939, 228 000 olive trees covered 1636 hectars. That same year, 635 tonnes of olive oil were

produced. An interesting stipulation that dates from the ages of the Venetian Republic

specified that a young man was not allowed to marry until he planted a certain number of

olive tree saplings. In 1968 there were 2096 hectars of olive-groves, 1745 hectars in the 1989.

The reason why olive growers are currently loosing interest in growing the trees is because of

the uncontrolled import of a low-quality olive oil. In order to mark the genuine olive oil

produced in the western part of the island, the brand Torkul was introduced. In the year 1750,

the Kapor family from Korčula planted a grove of 365 olives, in the Ohandol province. In the

Mindel province exist one of the oldest olive trees of the oblica variety. The stem is 9.5

metres in circumverence. The legend of the olive tree states that it grows roots trough the dry

soil, all the way to the sea, thus interconnecting all the olive trees of the entire Mediteranean.

Olive tree has become a part of Korčula’s history. Genrations have revered it as a holy object.

Religious rituals on the island use primarily local olive oil.

27. VINICULTURE

Viniculture dates from the period of Greek colonization. In the year 1896, vineyards

had a surface of 4.136 hectars and the annual output of 130 to 150 thousand hectolitre of

wine. The Statue of the town of Korčula from 1214 has strict stipulations regarding the

cultivation of the grape wine. Since 1420, it was forbidden to keep cattle close to a vineyard.

The viniculture has, and always will be, the bond of unity for the island populace.

28. FISHING

The maritime area of Korčula used to be a rich fishing area, so it provided for quite a

comfortable living. Undersea cliffs in the Channel of Lastovo were known fishing posts,

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where people hunted lobsters and fished for groupers and toothfish (Dentex gibbosus) during

the fall. Uncontrolled trawling devastated the entire maritime island area.

29. BADIJA ISLAND

The island Badija, a tourist attraction and excursion site, is twenty minutes away by

taking the local sailing line from thet town of Korčula. The proofs that Badija was populated

since prehistoric times are the findings of flint knives. Great deals of findings are also from

the later, Roman period. Francisean friars looked after the island for centuries. The first

settlement on the island was built in the 10th century, when St. Bendict founded the abbey.

After the departure of the Benedictine monks in the year 1392, Badija is then subsequently

populated by the Franciscans of Bosnian vicary. Korčula’s Executive Council, in the charter

dating from May 3rd, 1394, granted the Franciscans a portion of the island, so they could

construct a monastery. With the deed of donation, they are given the entire island in the year

1398. From then onward, Badija grows into a unitary spiritual and cultural centre of the entire

area of Korčula and Pelješac. In the year 1906, a monestary and the church containing

valuable sacral objects are built. In contemporary times, Badija is still an important cultural

centre. In the year 1906, the provincial administration makes the decision to establish a

private classical high school. The quality of the work done by the high school was recognized

by the government of that period. The decree issued on the 1st of December, 1924, turns the

Badija private school into the classical high school with accreditation. Teachers were highly

educated professors, both Franciscans and layman. Many noted Croatian professors,

physicians and jurists were educated there, among them, Dr. Ivo Padovan, one of the

presidents of Croatia’s Academy of Arts and Sciences. After Republic of Croatia gained

independence, the island Badija was returned to its owners, Franciscans, so nowadays the

sacral objects are finally restored thanks to the funds of the Croatia’s Ministry of Culture.

30. THE ISLE VRNIK

The dazzling reflection of the Sun from the white stones that make up hundred-year-

old houses and white beaches is Vrnik. The shores have come into existence as the scattered,

chipped pieces of stones rolled from the island quarries. It is as if the stonecarvers new that

the quarry will grow desolate, so they given the sea due time in order for it to create the

beaches. The chapel Gospa od pohođenja dominates the small island waterfront since the year

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1685. The oldest structure is the ancient, 15th century citadel, belonging to the patrician family

Gabrieli – Ismaeli, located in the SE part of the island. The first stone house on the island was

built not far from the citadel. Today, only a cross with a cannonball on top of it remains.

According to legend, during a naval battle, the fired Turkish cannonball, shot from a

battleship, flew to the top of the cross and remained there. Upon witnessing this, the Turks

have fled, assuming the island is bewitched. The stone on Vrbnik was extracted since the

neolitic era. With time, the quarrymen started working in the dawn and went home at the

dusk. After a while, they had begun to reside on the island from Monday to Saturday. Not

long thereafter, the first worker families begun to settle down. At times when the Vrbnik’s

stone trade was in full spread, the island’s quarries had approximately six hundred workers.

During the 14th century, the stone was delivered to the merchants of Dubrovnik, Ston, Šibenik

and Zadar. Numerous world palaces and villas were constructed using the stone from Vrbnik,

especially important are the Budampest parliament, Aya Sofia in Istambul and the Partisan

monument in Mostar. In order to transport the stone, shipbuilders from Korčula built the

biggest barque of the time, Fratelli Fabris, that had a deadweight tonnage of 550

tonnes. Since the year 1996, all the activities ceased, so the quarry is now covered with

greenery.

31. PLOČICA

A peculiar islet of the lowland configuration, situated in the three-border point of

Šćedro, northern coast of Korčula and the southern cape of Pelješac. On the western slope of

Pelješac, an ancient lighthouse building is situated. In the year 2001, it was restored for tourist

purposes and 2 apartments were furnished (www.plovput.hr). Pločica is 4 nautical miles from

Prigradica, the place where tourist transfer is organised.

32. SUNSET AND INSTEAD OF AN EPILOGUE

An ancient legend from Korčula states that the island rests on the seabed connected by

three stone pillars. If only one of them is to crumble, the whole island would be bound to

disappear into oblivion. Deep karst sinkholes can be found in the island wilderness and the

local populace states they actualy end under Korčula. Maybe these dark pits interconnect

those three pillars that, supposedly, carry the entire island?

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