Workshop manual

THE ROBERT A. MACOSKEY CENTER

for Sustainable Systems Education and Research at Slippery Rock University of Pennsylvania

247 Harmony Road

Slippery Rock, PA 16057

Phone: (724) 738-4050

e-mail: macoskey.center@sru.edu

www.sru.edu/ramc

Organic Vegetable Gardening 101

Written by Kristin Quell, Kyle Holzheuter, Thomas Reynolds, Julia Shock, Juliette Jones, Chris Sanford and

Abigail McCullough

Edited by Thomas Reynolds

© 2008 Slippery Rock University. All rights reserved. This publication is protected by federal copyright law.

No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by

any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, or to be used to make derivative

work without prior permission from the author.

Table of Contents

The Benefits of Organic Gardening 2

It All Starts With Soil 4

Sustainable Garden Design 8

Garden Preparation 12

Selecting and Buying Seeds and Transplants 15

Starting Seeds 16

Starting Seeds Indoors 18

Making Soil Blocks 19

Preparing a Seed Bed and Sowing or Transplanting 22

Garden Maintenance

Weed Management 23

Water Management 26

Pest Management 27

Reference Resource 30

Appendix 32

2

The Benefits of Organic Vegetable Gardening:

An Overview

What is Organic Vegetable Gardening?

Organic vegetable gardening is a safer and healthier way to garden, both for the environment as well as for you and

your family. Organic gardeners avoid the use of synthetic herbicides, pesticides, and fertilizers that contaminate the

soil, air, water and eventually humans as well. Organic gardeners develop an understanding of ecological systems,

and use a holistic approach to try and provide the best circumstances for their plants to grow with a minimum

number of inputs.

The Benefits – Safe, Fresh, Nutritious

A safer way to garden

If you take a quick look at your local garden supply store (or big box retailer) you will probably find the “gardening

sprays and fertilizers” aisle quite easily. If you read the labels of these products (put on a pair of disposable gloves first)

you will most likely find a warning something like this: “Keep off skin. Do not breathe spray. Wash hands and

exposed skin after use. Dangerous to fish/aquatic life. Extremely dangerous to bees. Warning: this product contains

metaldehyde which can kill if eaten. -Everyday low price: $2.49” It might occur to you that perhaps you might not

want to use this product on something that you were eventually going to eat. You certainly would not be anxious to

have your friends and loved ones close by if you chose to use that particular product in the garden landscape! A

garden should be a place where you can spend time with your friends and family, a safe haven from harmful chemicals.

Organic vegetable gardening is an activity that the whole family can be involved in.

No pesticide residues in your food

Food that comes from an organic garden won‟t have any pesticide residues. A 2006 study by a research team from

Emory University in Atlanta found that children who ate only organic foods had urine samples that contained nearly

no byproducts of two regularly used pesticides (malathion and chlorpyrifos). When the children began eating

conventionally grown foods, the quantity of these byproducts rose rapidly to as much as 263 parts per billion.

Another study done at the University of Washington (2003) found that children who ate organic fruits and vegetables

had on average 9 times less pesticide concentration than children consuming conventional produce.

Better Nutrition, Better Health

As soon as you harvest a tomato from the vine, the nutritional value of the fruit begins to decline. Since organic

gardeners can pick and eat in the same day, this means the produce can be eaten at it‟s nutritional peak! As well,

since the introduction of synthetic chemical-based agriculture in the 1930‟s, the nutritional content of our food has

steadily declined. The breeding of modern plants for quick growth, high yields, and long shelf life rather than for

nutrient density is partly to blame; but perhaps the greater problem lies in the use of synthetic chemicals in intensive

farming systems. Agricultural systems that rely on synthetic chemicals for their primary nutrient input don‟t replace

minerals, trace elements and other compounds that crops take up from the soil as they grow. As the soil becomes

depleted, the nutrient density of the harvest declines. Lack of good nutrition is a major factor in the occurrence of

many diseases including cancer. The organic vegetable gardener adds lots of organic matter back to the soil, which

helps to balance out what is lost from the harvest. A 2001 report by the British Soil Association reviewed 400

different nutritional studies and concluded that foods grown organically definitively have more vitamins and minerals.

3

A recent article in the Journal of Applied Nutrition compared nutritional content of organic vs. conventionally grown

produce, and found:

63% more calcium, which helps to prevent osteoporosis, and is key in aiding contraction and relaxation of body

muscle tissue.

138% more magnesium, which reduces mortality from heart attacks,

prevents muscle spasms, and eases the symptoms of PMS.

390% more selenium, an antioxidant that protects humans from

environmental chemicals, cancers, and heart disease.

70% more boron, which prevents osteoporosis

78% more chromium, a micronutrient that prevents adult diabetes and

atherosclerosis (hardening of the arteries).

9 times more salicylic acid, which has anti-inflammatory properties and

helps prevent colon cancer and atherosclerosis.

15.1% less nitrates, which are thought to elevate the risk of cancer, in

organic produce than their conventional counterparts.

Better taste

Organic gardeners can enjoy the benefits of harvesting and eating in the same day. Most conventional produce found

at the grocery store has traveled an average of 1400 miles and changed hands at least 5 times between the farmer and

the consumer. This forces farmers to prefer varieties that ship well, over those with abundant flavor, or nutritional

qualities. The organic gardener can choose varieties that are well adapted to their site, and that have exceptional

flavor too!

Better garden performance

Organic gardens are generally better adapted to climatic stress than their conventional counterparts. Soils with high

levels of organic matter (the organic gardener‟s favorite soil amendment) can help to moderate soil moisture

fluctuations, and can improve overall plant health. Soil organic matter also increases beneficial soil microorganisms

that play a vital role in maintaining soil fertility and suppressing harmful pests. Commonly used herbicides and

insecticides kill these microorganisms, reducing your garden‟s productivity potential, and also its ability to weather

environmental stresses.

Less environmental impact

Organic gardening minimizes the impact on air, water, and soil by avoiding the use of synthetic herbicides, pesticides

and fertilizers. The organic gardener embraces the concept of interdependence of the garden landscape with the rest

of the planet and practices the ecological paradigm that “Waste Must Equal Food”.

Less dependency on nonrenewable resources = Food Security

Organic gardening relies primarily on local renewable resources such as; neighbor‟s horses and autumn leaves as

inputs. The social impacts of going organic can also include decreased reliance on global corporations and increased

strength of local and bioregional resource networks.

4

Jar (a mayonnaise jar is perfect)

Half that jars worth of soil from your garden area

Half that jars worth of water

Tablespoon of liquid soap

It All Starts with the Soil

Soil Health

Healthy soil provides an ideal growing environment for your garden plants. Soil provides the physical structure in

which plant roots grow; a supply of nutrients upon which plants feed; and a home to a variety of organisms like

worms, insects and beneficial bacteria.

Soil is made up of four general parts:

Water (also called soil solution) contains dissolved nutrients and is

the main source of water for plants.

Air provides roots with oxygen and helps to remove excess carbon

dioxide from root respiration.

Minerals composed of three sizes of particles, sand, silt and clay.

Organic Matter is made up of living organisms, fresh residues, and

well decomposed residues.

Soil Texture

Soil texture is a term commonly used to designate the distribution of the different sizes of mineral particles in a soil.

This does not include organic matter. The mineral particles vary in proportion from sand to silt to clay. Sand

particles are relatively large, forming large pores with little capacity to hold water and plant nutrients. Silt particles

are smaller than sand and have a better capacity to hold water. Clay particles are extremely small and tend to cause

soils to harden when dry and to become sticky when wet. Clay soils hold large amounts of water and plant nutrients,

but allow less movement of water and air through the soil into the root zone.

Most soil is a mixture of various mineral sizes known as loam. An ideal soil contains sufficient sand to keep the soil

porous and sufficient clay to hold nutrients and water for plant growth needs. Thus, the ideal soil texture for a

garden is a clay loam or a silt loam. Good soil makes gardening easier and produces higher yields. Yet, many gardens

are located on less than ideal soil. This is especially true if a garden is located near a house where construction of the

house resulted in removal of the topsoil.

How to Test Soil Texture at Home

To determine the percentage of sand, silt, and clay perform this simple jar test. Compare results to the texture class

triangle in Appendix A.

Materials:

Minerals

45%

Air

25%

Water

25%

Organic Matter

5%

Figure 1

Ideal Garden Soil Composition

5

First add the water to the jar. Next, add the soil. Finally add the tablespoon of liquid detergent. Screw the cap on

tight and shake vigorously for a minute (or until the soil is completely in suspension). Set the jar in a place it can

remain undisturbed for 48 hours.

Once the soil has settled out of the water, examine the particle distribution of each texture size to determine

percentile. Sand, the largest particles, will settle to the bottom first. Indicate the level of sand with a piece of tape or

a marker. Silt will be the next to settle. Mark the top of the silt level the same way. Clay, the smallest particles, will

be the last to settle. Mark the clay level. Organic matter will float to the top; just ignore it when equating soil

texture.

Now measure the base of the jar to the top of the clay level; this is equivalent to one hundred percent. Then measure

each section: sand, silt, and clay and compare to the total to obtain each individual percentile. For example: If you

have a total of 8 inches of soil from the base to the top level of clay, that equals 100%. The sand is then measured and

found to be 2.5 inches. To find the percentile you would divide 2.5 inches by 8 inches and then multiply that number

by 100. The final number is the percent sand:

2.5” sand / 8” total soil = 0.3125

0.3125 x 100 = 31.25% Sand

The ideal soil texture composition is 40 percent sand, 40 percent silt, and 20 percent clay. This is classified as loam

and is considered the ideal garden soil.

Refurbishing Soil Texture

If your soil is too sandy, you can add silt and clay soil particles to improve the soil texture. If the soil has too much

clay or silt, add sand to improve the soil texture. The addition of soil material can be expensive, especially if the

garden is large. Several pounds of material must be added to adequately change the soil texture. For every three

square feet of garden add one pound of the needed soil texture, mix and test again! Test your soil texture each year

as it will change over time.

Topsoil

Topsoil is the surface layer of soil and can contain abundant organic matter. Topsoil is the portion of the soil in which

plants and other forms of life are most abundant. As these organisms live and die, they add organic matter to soil.

Organic matter is very important in maintaining the health of your soil. Organic matter improves soil tilth, water

holding capacity, promotes the movement of water and air, and supplies plant nutrients. You can use animal

manures, green plant materials, compost, peat moss, and other organic materials to add organic matter to your soils.

If it is not practical to add sand to clayey soils or silt and clay to sandy soils, you can add large amounts of organic

matter to the soil instead with much the same effect. However, if you choose to just add organic matter to the soil,

you will probably need to replenish that organic matter each year. Keep in mind that topsoil takes many years to

form, so don't expect organic matter to immediately correct any problems. It probably will be necessary to repeat

the application of organic material for several years in a row before a poor soil will be greatly improved. Some

organic materials, such as animal manure and green plant materials, supply plant nutrients to the soil. Green plant

materials decompose or rot much more rapidly than materials such as straw, bark, or sawdust. Compost is an

excellent organic material that can be used with great results in the garden. See our publication entitled

“Composting: A Beginner‟s Guide” for more information on how to make your own compost.

6

Plant Nutrients

In addition to water, air, and sunshine, plants need nutrients. Nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K), calcium

(Ca), magnesium (Mg), and sulfur (S) are often needed in large amounts.

Other elements are needed in small amounts, but are still very important for good plant growth. The nutrients

needed in trace amounts are zinc (Zn), copper (Cu), boron (B), iron (Fe), chlorine (Cl), molybdenum (Mo), and

manganese (Mn).

The fact that all these nutrients are needed does not mean that you must add them to the soil each year. The soil has

the capacity to store and release most of these nutrients as they are needed by the plants. Therefore, you will

typically need to apply only the most heavily used nutrients N, P, K, and S. You can do this by adding one pound of

an organic plant fertilizer for each six square feet of soil. You could also judge your fertilizer needs on a soil test.

Soil Testing

You can use a soil test to evaluate the nutrient levels in your soil, soil pH, and organic matter content. You can have a

test done by a commercial soil testing laboratory (your county Extension office has a list of labs). Cost varies

depending on the number of elements you choose to test for. There are also small soil test kits available online or

from your local garden supply store at a modest price. For small-scale gardens a soil test kit will probably be accurate

enough. If your potential garden site is now supporting healthy weeds, chances are it will do well to support garden

vegetables too. If your garden is going to be located adjacent to an older house (or in a dense urban environment),

sending a soil sample to a laboratory for lead testing is advisable.

Guidelines for taking a soil sample:

1. The best time to take a soil sample is in the summer or fall.

2. Take 8 to 10 random core samples from your garden or lawn area.

3. Sample only areas that are representative of the entire space, excluding problem areas or deep furrows.

4. Take samples from 2-inch to 4-inch soil depths.

5. Collect the samples in a clean container.

6. Mix the core samples, allow to air dry and remove roots and stones.

Soil pH:

Measuring soil pH may be the most beneficial test for the home gardener. Soil pH is an expression of the acidity or

alkalinity of a soil. A pH of 7.0 is neutral. Most plants grow best at a pH of 5.5 to 7.5. A pH below 5.5 is too acidic,

and a pH above 8.2 is too alkaline for most garden plants. Table 1 lists the pH preference of a selection of common

vegetables.

You can correct a pH that is too acidic (5.5 and below) by adding lime. Mix the lime well into the top 6 to 9 inches

of soil. The lime may take a year or more to react with the soil and correct the acidity problem. To correct a pH that

is too alkaline (8.2 and above) you can add sulfur. Mix the sulfur well into the top 6 to 9 inches of soil. Sulfur will

react quickly with the soil particles and may only take a few months to see results.

7

Table 1: pH Preference of Common Vegetables

Vegetable Latin Name Preferred pH

Asparagus Asparagus officinalis 6.0 - 8.0

Basil Ocimum basilicum 5.5 - 6.5

Beans, lima Phaseolus limensis 6.0 - 7.0

Beans, snap Phaseolus vulgaris 6.0 - 7.5

Beets, Sugar Beta vulgaris 6.5 - 8.0

Beets, Table Beta vulgaris 6.5 - 8.0

Broccoli Brassica oleracea 6.0 - 7.0

Brussels Sprouts Brassica oleracea 6.0 - 7.5

Cabbage Brassica oleracea 6.0 - 7.5

Cantaloupe, muskmelons Cucumis mela 6.0 - 7.5

Carrot Dausus carota var. sativus 5.5 - 7.0

Cauliflower Brassica oleraccea 5.5 - 7.5

Celery Apium graveoleus var dulce 5.8 - 7.0

Chives Allium schoenoprasum 6.0 - 7.0

Corn Zea mays 5.5 - 7.5

Cucumber Cucumis sativus 5.5 - 7.0

Eggplant Solanum melougena var. esculentum 5.5 - 6.5

Garlic Allium sativum 5.5 - 8.0

Kale Brassica oleracea 6.0 - 7.5

Leek Allium ampeloprasium 6.0 - 8.0

Lettuce Lactuca sativa 6.0 - 7.0

Mustard Brassica juncea 6.0 - 7.5

Onion Allium cepa 6.0 - 7.0

Parsley Betroselium crispum 5.0 - 7.0

Parsnip Pastinaca sativa 5.5 - 7.0

Peas Pisum sativum 6.0 - 7.5

Potato Solanum tuberosum 4.8 - 6.5

Sweet potato Ipomoea batatas 5.2 - 6.0

Pumpkin Cucurbita pepo 5.5 - 7.5

Radish Raphanus sativus 6.0 - 7.0

Rhubarb Rheum x cultorum 5.5 - 7.0

Spinach Spinacia oleracea 6.0 - 7.5

Squash, Crookneck Cucurbita pepo 6.0 - 7.5

Swiss Chard Beta vulgaris 6.0 - 7.5

Tomato Lycopersicum esculentum 5.5 - 7.5

Turnip Brassica rapa 5.5 - 6.8

Watermelon Citrullus lanatus 5.5 - 6.5

8

Sustainable Garden Design

A sustainable garden is a garden that is designed for a specific place. It takes maximum advantage of the

characteristics of a particular location to help you grow healthy, nutritious plants. If you carefully consider the needs

of your plants and the uniqueness of your garden landscape; then design a thoughtful relationship between the two,

you can reduce your labor, save time and money too!

Plant Selection

When planning your garden, the first question you need to ask is “What do I want to grow?” The answer to this

question will influence all the other decisions you make when designing your garden. Sit down and make a list of all

the plants you are considering growing. Here is where you have to do a little research… for each plant, write down

the following information:

Could it use support?

How big does it get? What is it‟s final spacing?

Solar preferences (full sun to full shade)

Planting time (when to start your seeds, when to transplant

your seedlings)

Planting type (direct seed, transplant)

How much should I plant? (how much will I eat?)

What are it‟s companion plants?

You should also find out:

Family name (what other plants is it related to?)

Is it perennial, annual or biennial?

Soil preferences (pH, fertility)

Any special water or maintenance needs?

Choosing a Location / Getting to know your Site

When choosing a location for a vegetable garden, you should consider: soil type, solar access, windbreaks, slope,

water movement, proximity to the home kitchen, circulation routes, tool storage, and water.

Soil Type

The ideal garden soil is a rich loam with good drainage. Loamy soil contains a range of particle sizes ranging from

microscopic clay to grains of sand, and retains moisture without becoming waterlogged. Heavy clay soils drain

poorly, warm up slowly in the spring, and are prone to compaction. Light sandy soils, on the other hand, drain too

rapidly and retain few nutrients. (See the previous section on soil management.)

Solar Access

At 40 degrees north latitude, most annual vegetables require full sun. Plants grown for their fruits, such as tomatoes,

peppers, and eggplant, need the most sun; leafy vegetables like lettuce, spinach, and chard can tolerate some light

shade during part of the day.

Wind Breaks

If possible, choose a garden site sheltered from cold northerly and prevailing winds. The south side of a south facing

wall is ideal and will provide some protection from frost. Consider planting a windbreak, but ensure that the

vegetation will not reduce solar access. Depending on the amount of space, consider a windbreak of full sized trees, a

9

hedgerow or simply rows of tall crops such as sunflowers and corn. In addition to sheltering plants, windbreaks can

also possibly yield mulch, compost, animal forages, nitrogen fixation, edible crops and habitat for insectivorous birds

and beneficial insects.

Slope

Given good solar access, soil drainage, and wind protection, generally a flat area is better than a slope for a garden

site. Slopes are more susceptible to erosion. If a flat area cannot be found, a gentle south facing slope is ideal.

Consider terracing or installing permanent garden bed frames. Avoid an unprotected hill top ridge or a low area with

poor drainage.

Water Movement

Right after or during a heavy rain, walk your property. Observe the hydrology of the site. Where is the water

flowing? Where does water puddle? These are important aspects to consider when choosing a garden location.

Avoid water channels and places where water drains slowly.

Proximity Issues

Efficient energy, resource, and economic planning involves placing elements according to how much they‟re used or

how often they need service. Areas that must be visited every day are located nearby, while places visited less

frequently are located further away.

Consider the distance between your garden and kitchen. Do you sometimes find yourself neglecting to do something

because of its distance? The same will go for your garden. The closer it is to your home, daily circulation routes, and

kitchen, the more likely you are to tend it, harvest, and eat its bounty.

In order to save time and energy, plant the herbs, vegetables, and fruits you use daily closest to the kitchen. Plant the

extensive, one-time harvest crops farther from the house. For example, plant culinary herbs and leafy greens closest

to the kitchen and potatoes and winter squash farther away.

Plant vegetables and soft fruits that come into season quickly or briefly along circulation routes that you‟ll naturally

check daily and harvest readily. For example, you could plant summer squash, strawberries, and low bush

blueberries along the path from the garage to the front door.

Basic Design Elements

Garden Beds

Garden beds should be sized to accommodate a comfortable working reach for planting, weeding, and harvesting.

Beds that are too wide are difficult to maintain, while beds that are very narrow are not as space efficient. To

determine a good spacing for you, kneel down and measure the distance from your knees to the farthest distance you

can reach forward comfortably. Eighteen inches is a common reach. If we account for access to a garden bed from

both sides, (18” x 2) a 3 foot wide bed would be preferred.

Throughout the world, especially in Asia where raised garden beds are a necessity and space is limited, garden beds

are traditionally measured 4 ft. wide. Given that the maximum reach of the average person is 2 ft., the entire surface

of a 4 ft. garden bed can be reached without stepping on the bed. Therefore, it‟s the most efficient use of space.

However, this may be an uncomfortable width for many people. Personally, measure a comfortable reach and double

that length to determine the width of your ideal garden bed.

10

Paths

Just like garden beds, paths should be sized to their use. If you plan to kneel and weed, your path width should

probably be at least 2 feet wide. This allows you to kneel between beds without touching the growing area (which

can compact the soil). A 2 foot width also accommodates a wheelbarrow, but not a garden cart. Consider placing

wider paths near garden entrances and common circulation routes, such as to the compost pile to facilitate easy use.

Fencing

It is quite possible that you may not need a fence around your garden. See the section on „pest management- other

critters‟ for information on choosing a fence type. Before placing your fence, consider the following:

Locate fence gates in strategic locations, and make sure they are wide enough to easily bring your garden cart,

wheelbarrow or other equipment through.

A fence placed directly adjacent to a garden bed can act as a trellis, but you may wish to make the bed narrow

(18”-24”) to facilitate working from only one side.

Fences with broad, round corners are easier to mow around with a riding lawn mower than fences with odd

angles.

One way to keep your fence free of weeds is to install a “permanent” mulch strip around the fence. To do this,

remove a 18-24 inch wide strip of sod (about 3” deep) around the perimeter of

where the fence will go. Lay down a weed barrier like landscape fabric or

cardboard in this shallow trench. Install your fence posts and fence. Then

backfill the trench with a “permanent” mulch like crushed rock or chipped bark.

Water

Although you can depend on a fair amount of rainfall to feed your growing

garden‟s needs, chances are you will have to supplement this rainfall with

another water source. Some consideration of where your water will come from

can help you plan a more sustainable garden landscape. Rain barrels installed

under the gutter downspouts of your roof can go a long way towards meeting your supplemental water needs.

Consider where these barrels are placed relative to the garden, and try to locate them nearby. If you plan to water

your garden from a hose bib on the house, think about where these are located in relationship to the garden

landscape.

Will you carry a watering-can from the spigot or rain barrel to the garden? Or will you use a hose and hand sprinkler

or overhead sprinkler? Know the answers to these questions before your plants are withering and crying for water.

Compost Pile

Some gardeners like to place the compost pile in a location adjacent to or on top of where they plan to garden when

the compost is finished. This way, the finished material can be spread out right in place with little effort. This takes a

little forethought, but can save labor in the long run. Other gardeners like to have the compost pile away from the

garden to have lots of room for turning the materials. Also, depending on the system, you may consider placing the

compost bin in a shady spot in the summer so it doesn‟t dry out too quickly. Either way, consider how you are going

to travel to the compost pile from the garden and vice versa.

11

Tool Storage

Having your garden tools stored far away from the garden can

begin to get annoying after your 4th trip to the basement after

another tool you forgot to bring with you. Consider where you

will store your growing supply of garden tools, and what

relationship this has with the garden.

A “Place” in the Garden

At times, working in the garden (especially pulling weeds) can

be hard work. Consider leaving a bit of space within your

garden to sit down and relax. You might use this spot to sort

your seeds, to write in your garden journal, or to take a well-

deserved nap. Being inside the garden landscape should be an

enjoyable experience, and having a place to sit and admire your

handiwork can rejuvenate what might be flagging gardening passion!

Keeping a Garden Journal

Drawing a Garden Plan

Once you have begun to reason out the best location for your garden, it is time to draw a preliminary garden plan.

Draw the outlines of major landscape features that will influence the proposed garden area including buildings, trees,

and other major landscape elements. Some gardeners like to use graph paper to make it easier to draw to scale. ¼

inch graph paper squares can represent 1 foot squares in the garden. A 3 foot wide garden bed that was 8 feet long

would be drawn as a rectangle that is 3 squares wide by 8 squares long. Sketch some ideas of what you might like

your garden beds to be shaped like. Remember to include paths between your garden beds. Your garden can be just

about any shape you can think of, including triangular and even round! One word of caution: planting crops in

garden beds of non-rectilinear shapes may be more difficult to trellis, overlay with row cover, move a wheelbarrow

through, etc… Take care to think of how you are going to use the garden, and plan accordingly.

Once you have a preliminary garden plan, begin to divide the garden based on your spatial needs for your different

crops. Group the crops together according to their plant families when possible (see appendix for information on

crop rotation and companion planting). Consider the different requirements of each of the plants and place them

accordingly. You will probably draw several different versions until you get one that satisfies you. Now it‟s time to

get out and build garden beds!

After your garden beds have been constructed, inevitably you will have made some changes to your plan. Revise your

plan to reflect the changes you have made. As you direct seed or transplant seedlings into your garden beds, record

their location on your revised garden plan. This way, if you later forget what you planted in a particular area, you will

have something to remind you!

Keeping Yearly Records

This can be as simple as saving your garden plans or using a calendar to record garden and weather information. The

important thing is to find a system that works best for you.

12

Garden Preparation

Prepare the Site

After determining the location of your garden, prepare the site for constructing beds and delineating pathways.

Remember to compost any sod or plant materials removed from the garden site. What style of garden beds and

pathways do you intend to build? There are many choices, each with pros and cons:

First, decide if your beds and pathways will be permanent or annual.

Permanent Beds and Pathways

Pros: Clear delineation of growing area; Concentrates soil building activities and materials;

Better drainage; Warms earlier in spring; Provides some frost protection as heavy, cold air

settles on the lower paths

Cons: Requires more water during hot, dry summers; More initial labor to establish

Annual Beds and Pathways

Pros: Accommodates use of mechanized tillage (Tractor or Rototiller); Easier to change layout of

garden from year to year

Cons: Pathways may be difficult to maintain (Weed pressure, Mud); Slower drainage and

warming in spring

Next, decide if your beds will be flat, contained raised, or freestanding raised.

Flat Beds

Pros: Less work initially; Require less water during hot, dry summers; Easier to redesign from

year to year

Cons: Slower to warm and drain in spring

Contained Raised Beds

Have permanent walls made from wood, brick, stone, or almost any building material.

Pros: Clear delineation of growing area; Concentrates soil building activities and materials;

Better drainage; Warms earlier in spring; Provides some frost protection as heavy, cold air

settles on the lower paths; Can easily be fitted with clear tops to serve as cold frames; Arguably

more aesthetic

Cons: Initial labor and resource investment; Requires more water during hot, dry summers;

Relatively permanent garden design

Freestanding Raised Beds

Made from soil in the garden usually by scraping the soil from pathways and adding it to the bed.

Pros: Clear delineation of growing area; Better drainage; Warms earlier in spring; Provides some

frost protection as heavy, cold air settles on the lower paths; Good flexibility with changing

garden designs and crop rotations

Cons: Annual labor; Erosion

13

Your next step is to decide if your pathways will be constructed with exposed soil, mulch, or sod.

Exposed Soil Pathways

Pros: Does not require outside inputs; Easy to harvest soil and add to garden beds as needed

Cons: Mud; Weed pressure; Compaction

Mulched Pathways

Pros: Clean, weed free pathways

Cons: Annual addition of woody organic matter; Difficult to harvest soil to add to garden beds

Sod Pathways

Pros: Provides nitrogen rich grass clippings; Clean pathways

Cons: Requires regular mowing; Weed pressure

Cultivation Methods for Pennsylvania

Because of Pennsylvania‟s particular soils and climate, there are several cultivation methods that may be best

employed here, including Standard European-American Vegetable Garden, Mulch Garden, Sheet Mulch Garden,

Biointensive, and Animal Tractor Systems. As with beds and pathways, there are advantages and disadvantages to

each method.

Standard European-American Vegetable Garden

Cultivation of garden by hand or mechanically to prepare seed bed. Re-cultivate to kill weeds.

Pros: Can be mechanized; Apparent increase in fertility (temporary due to increased oxidation

of organic matter); Less work and fewer inputs (initially) than other methods

Cons: Destruction of soil structure; Destruction of soil micro-organisms; Destruction of

earthworms; Creation of hard pan; Brings new weed seeds to the surface with each cultivation

Mulch Garden

In the 1960‟s, Ruth Stout popularized mulch gardening as a polemic to the traditional

European-American garden. As opposed to bare soil cultivation, mulch covers exposed

soil.

Pros: Mulch inhibits weed seed germination and suppresses weeds; Mulch protects

the soil from erosion, compaction, and oxidation; Mulch limits evaporation,

retaining soil moisture; As organic mulch decomposes, it adds valuable organic

matter to the soil

Cons: Organic mulch is in short supply; Mulch can harbor some pests, namely

slugs; Mulch doesn‟t control perennial weeds

Sheet Mulch Garden (aka: Lasagna Garden)

Sheet mulching creates a weed free garden by growing above a weed barrier

Pros: Relatively quick and easy to establish; Can be used on poor and weedy soils; No disruption

of soil organisms; Controls weeds; Soil protected from erosion, compaction, and oxidation; As

organic mulch decomposes, it adds valuable organic matter to the soil

Cons: Organic compost is expensive; Mulch can harbor some pests, namely slugs; Plants initially

unstable; Cannot grow root crops the first year

14

Biointensive

Features permanent double-dug beds and intensive planting

Pros: Good aeration of soil; Breaks hardpan; Allows deep crop root penetration; Reduces water

use through increased capillary rise

Cons: One time substantial disruption of soil organisms; One time substantial input of manual

labor; Not easily suited to heavy clay soils

Animal Tractor System

Can be used in combination with other methods.

Pros: Animals clear garden beds of weeds and insects; Animals fertilize garden without human

labor or double handling of manure

Cons: Soil compaction; Under the National Organic Program (NOP), raw manure requires an

interval of 120 days between application and crop harvest when the edible portion of the crops

destined for human consumption are in contact with soil, and 90 days for crops whose edible

portion does not have direct contact with the soil surface or soil particles

15

The Macoskey Center at SRU

247 Harmony Road

Slippery Rock, PA 16057

724-738-4050

macoskey.center@sru.edu

Three Sisters Farm

Darrel Frey

134 Obitz Rd.

Sandy Lake, PA 16145

724-376-2797

defrey@bioshelter.com

www.bioshelter.com

Wolf Creek Farm

John and Susan Biberich

3175 Scrubgrass Rd.

Grove City, PA 16127

Phone (814) 786-7675

F Seeds

Burpee Seeds

Heirloom Seeds:

Seed Savers

Exchange

Heirloom Seeds

Organic:

Seeds of Change

High Mowing Seeds

Biodynamic:

Turtle Tree Seeds

Selecting and Buying Seeds

and Transplants

Local Seed and Transplant Sources:

The Macoskey Center at SRU Three Sisters Farm Wolf Creek Farm

247 Harmony Road Darrel Frey John and Susan Biberich

Slippery Rock, PA 16057 134 Orbitz Road 3175 Scrubgrass Road

724-794-4050 Sandy Lake, PA 16145 Grove City, PA 16127

macoskey.center@sru.edu 724-376-2797 814-786-7675

defray@bioshelter.com

www.bioshelter.com

Mail Order Seed Distributors (check the Internet for dozens of online sources)

Heirloom vs. Hybrid Seed

Prior to the 1930‟s, commercial hybrid seeds were largely non-existent. All of the seed a farmer or gardener used

was open pollinated, came from the previous year‟s crop, and would grow true to type. After 1930, hybrids began to

take hold and new varieties began to appear in the seed catalogs.

Hybrid seed is produced by artificially cross-pollinated plants. Hybrids are bred to improve the characteristics of the

resulting plants, such as better yield, greater uniformity, disease resistance, longer shelf-life, and so forth. However,

hybrids will not reproduce true to form. Since hybrid seed cannot be saved with certainty, farmers and gardeners

using hybrid seed are dependent on seed companies to supply their seed.

Seed Saving

Seed saving is the practice of saving seeds from open-pollinated vegetables and flowers for use from year to year. This

is the traditional way farms and gardens are maintained. Seed saving requires time and energy for gathering and

organizing seeds, and extensive garden planning. A common objection to the use of seed saving is the possibility that

plant diseases from one year may transfer to the next year. However, seed saving is cost effective and resource

efficient, and provides an excellent educational opportunity within the garden.

Buying Seed

When buying seed, try to purchase seed varieties developed or specified for your geographic region. Penn State

Cooperative Extension provides a list of proven commercial, hybrid varieties for Pennsylvania soils (for more

information go to http://hortweb.cas.psu.edu/pubs/pdfs/veggies/variety_recommendations.pdf )

Consider purchasing from seed suppliers in the Northeast region. When buying seed from a smaller seed company or

retail store, check the date and germination rate on the seed package. Ensure that the seed was grown out last season

for distribution this season. Consider the germination rate when sowing.

Commercial Growers

* Johnny‟s Selected Seeds

* FEDCO Seeds

Heirloom Seeds

* Seed Savers Exchange

* Heirloom Seed Co.

Organic

* Seeds of Change

* High Mowing Seeds

Biodynamic

* Turtle Tree Seeds

16

Buying Transplants

Only purchase healthy transplants. Do not purchase seedlings that show signs of

nutrient deficiency or stunted growth. The first weeks of a seedling‟s life

determines its potential as a mature plant. Don‟t spend the time, money, and

garden space on mediocre transplants. Look for stocky plants with dark green

foliage and strong, thick stems. Tall, leggy, pale-green or yellow plants grow

more slowly and will not mature as readily. Avoid diseased or damaged plants

and those with open flowers or developing fruits. Examine the undersides of the

leaves for insects and insect eggs. Pull the plant gently but firmly out of the pot.

The white roots should hold the potting soil together without a tight mass of

dying roots at the bottom. If there is a tight mass of dying, yellow roots they will

have to be removed before transplanting.

Starting Seeds Plant Hardiness

Generally, annual vegetables can be divided into two groups, cool-season and warm-season.

Cool-season Vegetables

These vegetables thrive in cool weather and tolerate varying levels of frost. Examples of cool-season vegetables are

beets, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrot, cauliflower, collards, garlic, kale, kohlrabi, leeks, lettuce, mustard

greens, onion, Asian greens, peas, radish, spinach, Swiss chard, and turnip.

Warm-season Vegetables

These vegetables are less hardy than cool-season vegetables. They thrive in warm weather, and are generally frost

intolerant. Examples of warm-season vegetables include beans, corn, cucumber, eggplant, melons, okra, peppers,

pumpkin, squash, sunflower, sweet potatoes, and tomatoes.

Direct-seeding vs. Transplanting

Direct-seeding establishes plants by sowing seed directly in the soil, while transplanting involves starting seed indoors

and then replanting young seedlings into the garden.

Direct-seeding

Direct-seeding is resource-efficient, as it does not require indoor growing space, potting mix or greenhouse supplies

such as plug trays or pots. This method usually does not require daily watering as potted seedlings do. Structurally,

direct-seeded plants have a better change of developing strong, undisturbed root systems. The direct-seeding method

is employed outside, and therefore the gardener has less control over spacing of the plants. Directly-seeded plants

often require thinning, and are subject to more competition from weeds. Also, this method relies on the natural

growing season, which may vary from year to year.

Transplanting

Starting plants indoors requires indoor growing space with lights or adequate solar access. You must have adequate

supplies for seedling care, such as potting mix, trays, plug trays, and pots. This method requires daily watering of

plants, and plant root systems can be compromised by their containers. Transplanting allows for a longer growing

season, as you can easily start seeds inside before outside conditions are favorable. When transplanting, the gardener

has more control over plant spacing and mulching, and the plants experience less competition from weeds.

17

Recommendations

Some gardeners prefer to direct-seed most root crops, including turnip, radish, beetroot, potato, carrots, and

parsnips. It is also the preferred method for growing garlic, Swiss chard, spinach, peas, beans, corn, and okra.

Transplanting is the preferred method for leeks, onions, cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, kale, collards, Brussels

sprouts, kohlrabi, Asian greens, head lettuce, melons, cucumber, squash, pepper, tomato, eggplant, sweet potato,

and basil.

Reading a Seed Packet

There are several key pieces of information on a seed packet that will help you decide what seeds to buy and plant:

days, germination rate, and cultural recommendations.

Days: indicates the number of days typically needed after germination for a plant to reach maturity

Germination Rate: indicates what percentage of seeds germinated under ideal conditions before seed was

sold

Cultural Recommendations: may include information such as when to plant, soil temperature required

for germination, planting depth and spacing

Rules of Thumb

There are several general rules to follow when starting seeds. First, determine if the plant is tolerant of frost (see

Plant Hardiness). This will determine the appropriate time of year to direct-seed or transplant. Consider whether

the plant thrives in cool or warm weather; this will indicate the soil temperature required for germination.

Remember that appropriate planting depth is 2-3 times the width of the seed. Finally, keep spacing in mind when

direct-seeding or transplanting. Follow spacing recommendations on the seed packet, and try to visualize how much

space each plant will need when full-grown.

Planting guide for Slippery Rock

Average Last Frost: May 8 with latest being June 12, 1972

Average First Frost: October 12 with earliest being August 28, 1982

18

Starting Seed Indoors

Indoor Seed Starting Supplies

For the beginner gardener, hard plastic plug trays and 4” pots are easiest to use when starting seeds indoors. Plug

trays use less potting mix than flats and can be easier to manage. Hard plastic pots are sturdy, reliable, and can be

used year after year. However, purchasing plug trays and plastic pots is not necessary to start seed indoors. Used

containers (such as from yogurt) with drainage holes punched in the bottom can be used as pots to start seeds. You

can also make your own pots from yesterday‟s newspaper.

Making Newspaper Pots

1. Find a can or jar roughly the size you would like your pot to be.

2. Cut newspaper strips to an appropriate size. The width of the strips should be the desired height of the pot plus

an additional 1-2 inches. The length of the strips determines how permanent the pot will be.

3. For example, a 15.5 oz can will make a pot about 3 ½ inches across. Take a strip of newspaper 6-8 inches wide

and 20-22 inches long and roll it around the can with two inches hanging off one end of the can.

4. Fold the protruding newspaper over the bottom of the can, folding in the edges to overlap.

5. Place the can and newspaper down on the folded paper end on a hard table or countertop.

6. Press hard while turning so that the folded edges press together tightly. Some people choose to use tape to hold

the folded edges together, but the pots should hold together well without the extra support. You may choose to

fold the top edges of the paper down into the pot for added sturdiness.

7. Remove the paper pot from the can and use as you would any other transplant pot, but be very careful when

moving them so as not to tear the paper.

8. Remember to store your pots on a waterproof surface since some water will leak when you water your seeds and

plants.

9. When you plant them in the ground, pierce and tear the pot as much as you‟d like to encourage its

decomposition

Try different paper thicknesses and see what works best for you and your plants. You may need to make especially

thick pots for large plants or for plants spending longer than average in the paper pots before being transplanted.

Also, wooden newspaper pot makers are commercially available. Now that‟s putting bad news to good use!

19

Making Soil Blocks What is a soil block?

A soil block is a block of growing medium that has been lightly compressed and shaped by a form. A soil block serves as

both a container and the soil for starting and growing seedlings, eliminating the need for plastic pots and trays for

transplanted seedlings. Seedlings grown in soil blocks form stronger root systems than those grown in containers due

to increased oxygen to the roots and the soil block‟s natural tendency to “prune” roots. This creates a substantial

advantage when seedlings are transplanted into the field, because plants establish themselves more quickly and,

because of lessened root disruption, they are less prone to transplant shock. The key to making good soil blocks is to

use a mix containing the correct proportions of peat, compost, soil, and sand or perlite. A “blocking” mix needs

extra fibrous material - peat - to bind the material together and help the block retain moisture. Some commercially

available peat-lite mixes may work, but often contain wetting agents and/or fertilizers that make it unsuitable for

organic use.

Soil Block Mix Recipe*

A standard 10-quart bucket is the unit of measurement for the bulk ingredients. A standard cup measure is used for

the supplementary ingredients. This recipe makes approximately 2 bushels of mix. Follow the steps in the order

given:

3 buckets brown peat (standard peat moss, use a premium grade)

½ cup lime. Mix ingredients together thoroughly.

2 buckets coarse sand or perlite

3 cups base fertilizer (equal part mix blood meal, colloidal phosphate, and greensand). Mix.

1 bucket garden soil

2 buckets well-decomposed compost. Mix ingredients together thoroughly.

* From The New Organic Grower, by Eliot Coleman (JSS part #9899).

Moisten the mix thoroughly using one part warm water for every three parts blocking mix. Successful soil block

making depends on the mix being wet enough, rather than wet like soil mix in traditional flats. The mix should have

the consistency of soft putty or wet cement, so that a small amount of water oozes through small openings in the

blocker as the blocks are made, and that the individual soil blocks cling to the blocker without falling out

prematurely.

How to use the Soil Block Maker

Blockers can be used on any flat work surface. Push the prepared soil mix into a mound that is 1¼ to 1½ times

deeper than the height of the soil blocker. Push the blocker into the mix until it strikes the work surface. Twist the

blocker a quarter-turn and lift. Set the blocker where you plan to grow your seedlings such as a wooden or plastic

tray, push down on the handle while raising the blocker. Rinse the blocker in warm water before making the next set

of blocks. Place the seed into the indentation of each block, and cover according to the culture information on your

seed packet. Prevent drying by covering blocks with clear plastic until the seeds have germinated.

*From Johnny‟s Selected Seeds: What you should know about Johnny’s Soil Block Maker.

Alternative Soil Block Mix Recipe

1 part peat moss/Coir 1 part compost 1 part seed starting potting mix

For instructions on making your own Soil Block mold, please visit the following website:

www.toppers-place.com/soil_blocks.htm

20

Potting Mix

There are as many potting mix recipes as there are gardeners. As with plug trays and plastic pots, you can purchase

commercial potting mix, make your own fancy mix, or like the paper pots, you can use ingredients found around

your home. Nonetheless, all good potting media must meet the needs of plant roots for air, water, nutrients, and

support.

The trick is finding the right balance between nutrients, water retention, and water drainage. Dark topsoil, compost,

and organic fertilizers can provide nutrients. Peat, coir (coconut fiber), vermicompost, and clay topsoil generally

retain moisture. Vermiculite, perlite, and sand improve drainage.

The following is a traditional potting mix:

1/3 mature compost or leaf mold, screened

1/3 garden topsoil (fine loam preferred)

1/3 sharp sand

In How to Grow More Vegetables…, John Jeavons's recommends a simple potting mix of equal parts by volume of

compost and bed soil (saved from a biointensive production bed during the double-digging process). If nothing else,

use your darkest, most humus rich topsoil from your garden or woods. If you‟re already composting, start with your

compost and work from there. Try a 50/50 soil and compost mix. Add fine river sand to improve drainage. If you

water in the morning and it dries out by the end of the day, add materials that retain water. If your mix holds

moisture for more than a couple of days or grows algae, you probably want to improve drainage.

Do not allow your homemade potting mix to dry out. Your compost-topsoil potting mix is home to innumerable soil

microorganisms that depend on moisture to live. Keep it slightly moist but not damp.

Steps to a Successful Start

Instructions on starting seed indoors are usually given on seed packages, in seed catalogs, or in gardening books. The

following are the steps you‟ll likely take when starting seeds indoors.

1. Determine when you intend to transplant. This is determined by the frost sensitivity of the plant. Generally,

warm season vegetables are transplanted after the last frost while cool season vegetables can be transplanted a

week or two before the last frost.

2. Determine the number of weeks required before transplanting outside. This in turn, is determined by the usual

amount of time a particular vegetable needs to mature before it can be transplanted, as well as the size of its

container. A plant‟s root system will fill a small container and need to be transplanted before it can fill a large

container.

3. Once you‟ve determined when you intend to transplant and the number of weeks a particular vegetable requires

to mature before transplanting, count backwards to determine your seed starting date.

4. Determine what containers you‟ll use to start your seeds.

5. Fill containers just below the top with potting mix.

21

6. Sow seed

7. Either press in the seed to the recommended depth or sift a thin layer of loose potting mix over the top.

8. Consider lighting. Some seeds require light to germinate while others prefer total darkness. The seed packet or

catalogue should specify if a seed has particular requirements.

9. Water from the bottom, top, or both. Consider using a soaker pan to water from the bottom. The water will rise

through the container by capillary rise. Watering from the bottom encourages proper root growth and minimizes

damping off. When watering from the top, use a spray bottle or watering can with a fine overhead spray. A

strong stream of water can wash away seeds and topple seedlings.

10. Do not allow the seed container to dry out. Keep potting mix moist through regular watering, but not

waterlogged or the seeds may rot before germinating.

11. Watch for signs of germination. The first thing you'll see will be a set of what appear to be small leaves. These

are actually food storage cells called cotyledons. (Germination times vary greatly; again, your seed packet will tell

you when to expect the first signs of life.) Continue to water so that the soil stays evenly moist.

12. Put the container(s) in full sun.

13. Prick out or thin seedlings when appropriate. Pricking out is transplanting a young seedling into a larger indoor

container. When a seedling has outgrown its container or has too much competition from other seedlings, it can

be pricked out and transplanted into a larger container. When pricking out, use a fork to gently dig out the

seedling. Use a fork handle to make a hole in a new container for transplanting. After the seedling is transplanted

to the new container, press lightly around its base to ensure good root to soil contact.

14. Hardening off: Before transplanting your seedlings outside, they must be hardened off, that is, acclimated to the

outside. Transplanting is a shock to a plant. Changing environments is shocking to a plant. Rather than hit a

seedling with two shocks at once, gardeners want to transplant in stages. Hardening off can take up to a week

depending on the weather. Begin by bringing your seedlings outside on a calm, warm, sunny day. Remember to

take them back in at night.

22

Preparing a Seed Bed and Sowing or Transplanting

Step 1: Remove large weeds from the garden bed.

Step 2: Turn under the residue.

Step 3: Break up large clumps of soil with a hoe or digging fork.

Step 4: Rake out the remaining clumps of soil and stones leaving a fine tilth.

Step 5: Mark planting rows

Direct-Seeding: Using a string as a guide or by just eyeballing it, make a shallow furrow in the soil using the

handle of a tool or a dibble stick. The depth of the furrow depends on the size of the seed.

Transplanting: Using a string, dibble stick, or good judgment.

Step 6: Plant Seed or Transplant

Direct-Seeding: Generally the depth a seed should be planted is 2-3 times its width.

Transplanting: Bury the seedling up to its first true leaves, the adult leaves above the cotyledons. With some

plants, be sure not to cover its growing point.

Step 7: Ensure good soil contact

Direct-Seeding: Cover seed and apply light pressure to ensure good seed to soil contact.

Transplanting: Press around the base of the seedling to eliminate air pockets around seedling roots which may

cause the roots to dry out.

Step 8: Water

Direct-Seeding: Maintain a moist seed bed until the seeds have germinated.

Transplanting: Thoroughly water seedlings. Check daily to ensure seedlings have taken and water if needed.

23

Garden Maintenance

Weed Management

Every organic garden has it‟s share of weeds. Fertile soil with lots of organic matter that is suited to your vegetables

will also be attractive to uninvited guests as well. “A good garden grows great weeds.” Not all weeds are a plague on

the garden, and the organic gardener will learn to value the helpful ones. The others can be dealt with using simple,

low-tech tools and well-timed action.

Mulch, mulch, and more mulch

Weeds (just like your vegetables) need air and light to survive and thrive. Using 2 - 4” of mulch to cover the soil in

your garden will help to prevent weeds from getting started.

Reasons to Mulch

Mulch control weeds efficiently and safely.

Organic mulch improves the soil as it decomposes.

Using mulch makes your garden more water efficient as well as more drought tolerant.

The insulating properties of mulch can prevent the ground from frost-heaving in the winter.

Mulching helps to prevent soil compaction due to crusting caused by rainfall impact.

Mulch timing

Wait to mulch heat loving plants (peppers, tomatoes, eggplant, etc…) until after the weather warms up. Your cool

weather plants (broccoli, kale, etc..) will produce longer if you mulch them while the soil is still cool.

Choosing a Mulch

The best mulch is whatever you happen to have available… straw, newspaper, leaves, grass clippings, etc. It should

be free of synthetic chemicals, and be able to be incorporated into the garden bed or the compost pile at the end of

it‟s useful life. See the chart on the next page for more details on selecting a mulch.

A note on plastic mulches:

Plastic mulches suppress weeds and increase the soil temperature faster than most other mulches. Heat loving plants

will thrive using plastic mulches. Special consideration has to be made for watering the roots of plants under the

plastic mulch. Plastic mulch is made from non-renewable resources and cannot be tilled into the soil at the end of the

year… unless it is made from a biodegradable cornstarch-based material. (Google “Garden Bio-Film” for more

details)

24

Type Features Best Uses Sources Tips

Aged Sawdust

(partially rotted)

Decomposes quickly;

acidic; good conditioner

when worked into soil;

can temporarily deplete

nitrogen at soil surface;

flammable

Pathways; around

vegetables, but requires

nitrogen supplement

Local Sawmills

Be careful not to use

sawdust from plywood,

or from treated lumber

as these contain harmful

chemicals.

Wood chips Slow to decompose;

stays in place Pathways

Tree Service; yard wood

chipper

Lay at least 10 layers of

newspaper or one layer

of cardboard down first.

Straw

Good insulator;

lightweight; flammable;

Lasts one season

Around vegetables after

soil has warmed; over

garden beds in winter

(remove in spring)

Local farm

Make sure the straw

doesn‟t have seed heads

in it, otherwise you are

planting grass!

Grass clippings

Readily available;

decomposes quickly;

could temporarily

deplete nitrogen at soil

surface; could contain

herbicides; lasts one

season or less

Around vegetables;

possibly better used in

compost piles

Your yard

Let your clippings dry

out before you use

them, or else they can

be slimy.

Leaves

Good insulator;

lightweight; most are

acidic; can blow away if

not shredded or

composted; slugs love to

hide here; lasts one

season

Winter cover; cools soil

in summer

Your yard, your

neighbors yard (ask

first!)

Stockpile leaves in the

fall for use in the spring.

Compost

Dark color can help to

heat soil; if not well

composted, could be

weedy; will increase soil

organic matter

Around vegetables

Your compost pile;

landscape and garden

centers

Make your own

compost. It‟s good for

you and your garden.

Table 2: Types and Properties of Common Garden Mulches

25

Hoeing

An annual weed will die if you sever its stem from the root just below the soil surface. Your hoe should be sharp,

otherwise hoeing is more work than it‟s worth. Look for a collinear hoe, a swan neck hoe, or an oscillating hoe as

they are better adapted to weeding than a traditional square-headed garden hoe. Don‟t bend over to hoe and your

back will thank you. Instead, hold the hoe with your thumbs pointed up, as you would a broom. Use a pulling or

drawing motion with the head of the hoe cutting through the top half inch of the soil.

Avoid hoeing too deeply around plants with shallow root systems like squash, cucumbers, and melons. It‟s easy to

damage these plants, so consider using mulch instead.

Hand Pulling

Pulling those pesky buggers from the soil can be a chore, but may be necessary to remove weeds that are in spots too

small for a hoe. Weeding is easier when the soil is damp, so wait until after a rain, or after you water the garden.

One trick to comfortable weed pulling:

Put your hands in front of you, thumbs up with palms facing you, one in front of the other.

Rolling your hands one over the other, pinch your thumb and forefinger together on the weed as you reach the

outermost edge of your reach and pull backwards coming underneath the now forward-moving other hand. As you

pull back, fold your arms to the side, not down.

Weeds with a deep taproot (dandelion, canada thistle, etc..) can be removed easier with the use of a weed knife as

follows:

Grasp the plant foliage near the base of the plant. With your other hand, insert the weed knife into the soil

alongside the root of the plant. Rotate the weed knife to loosen the soil around the root. Lever the tool partially

out of the soil to lift the root and pull the weed free.

Come to know your weeds

Learning what weeds are common in your garden may help you to decide not to pull them in the first place. Some

common garden weeds are edible:

Amaranth - Nutritious with many vitamins and minerals

Burdock - Healthful root, grown as a vegetable in Japan

Dock - Root considered a tonic

Chicory - Similar to dandelion

Chickweed - Rich in iron and vitamin C

Dandelion - Rich in vitamin C and high in calcium. Widely used for diuretic properties, dandelion consumption

is also said to reduce serum cholesterol and uric acid.

Lambs quarters - High in vitamin C, vitamin A, iron

Purslane - Contain alpha-linolenic acid, one of the highly sought-after Omega-3 fatty acids

Shepherd‟s purse - Packed with vitamin A, C & K, calcium, sodium and sulphur

A Gentle Caution: As with any wild plant, make sure you know what it is, and how to use it before you eat it!

26

Water Management

Plants are sensitive to changes in soil moisture. Too much water in the soil can cause an oxygen deficiency, which

will result in root damage. Too little water in the soil won‟t allow the plant to carry out it‟s essential biological

functions. Mulching is a good way to conserve water and keep the garden beds evenly moist, especially during the

summer months. Adding organic matter (compost, manure, green manures) to your soil will increase the capacity of

the soil to hold moisture.

Water consistency is most critical:

when germinating seeds

when plants are young seedlings

immediately after transplanting seedlings

when forming and ripening fruits

Tomatoes are particularly sensitive to fluctuations in soil moisture. Not enough water or irregular watering can cause

underdeveloped fruit, fruit cracking, and blossom end rot.

Know when to water

Watering the garden in the morning is your best bet. If you aren‟t able to water in the morning, water in the early

evening. Watering during the heat of the day is wasteful as most of the water will evaporate before the plants have a

chance to take it up. Don‟t water your garden late in the evening. The plants will probably remain wet through the

night, encouraging mold and fungus growth.

Know where to water

Water the roots of the plants, not the leaves and stems. This can be difficult

to accomplish with a hose and sprayer, or a conventional overhead sprinkler

system. A watering can with a fine rose is easier to control than the hose, but

can be tedious when watering the whole garden. Using a soaker hose (or drip

irrigation) laid under 2” of mulch is ideal. A soaker hose “sweats” water from

tiny holes along the length of the hose. It emits water slowly and

continuously along the hose length, and can be woven around plantings in

various shapes.

Know how to water

Don‟t water lightly and daily. Water weekly and heavily. You want the soil

to become wet to a depth of 5 to 6 inches. The soil will also be able to retain

this moisture for several days. Heavily moisten the soil each time you water,

and allow the plants to take up most of that moisture from the soil before

watering again. As a rough guideline, your garden will need 1” of water

(rainfall + irrigation) every week.

27

Look for signs of water stress in plants

Signs of water stress in plants include:

droopy plants in the morning or late evening

brown edged leaves

undersized or misshaped fruit

smaller than normal leaves

Pest Management - Insects

Much like weeds, there are both „good‟ and „bad‟ insects to have in the garden.

The key to insect management in the organic garden is observation and

appropriate response to pest damage.

Observe the suspects

It is important to identify the insects in your garden that may be causing your

problems. Collect a few in a jar and get a close look at them. Observe what they

are doing in the garden. Are they eating your plants, or are they eating other bugs?

Do some research and understand the lifecycle of the suspect. Good pest managers

think like an insect, and look for ways to interrupt their lifecycle.

Grow a diverse garden

Having biodiversity in your garden will ensure that a particular pest won‟t decimate an entire section of your garden.

It will also discourage an insect population explosion at the expense of your harvest. Multiple plantings of the same

crop in different locations may also ensure some of your harvest remains intact.

Grow healthy plants

Frequently, insects attack those plants that are weak and/or stressed in some way. Are you providing the correct

environment for your crops to grow in? Are your crops well suited to the site? Growing healthy plants will go a long

way towards fighting pest pressure.

Encourage beneficial predators (good bugs)

Include plants in your garden that attract and feed beneficial insects. These include: marigolds, zinnias, cosmos,

yarrow, fennel, dill, tansy, daisies and nasturtiums. The beneficial insects will predate on the “bad” bugs. Attract

birds (insect predators) to the garden by including hedgerows, berried ornamental plants, a water source and bird

feeders.

Use barriers

To combat flying insects such as flea beetles, use row covers such as Reemay or Agribon. Secure the edges carefully.

Take care to remove the cover for at least 3 hours every day if blossoming plants require pollination. Once plants are

well established, (6-10 weeks) the cover may be removed completely. Dust barriers (on the ground around plants)

made from wood ashes or diatomaceous earth are effective against cabbage root maggots, slugs and snails; but need to

be reapplied after a rain. Cutworm collars made from newspaper that extend 1” below the surface of the soil will

deter cutworm caterpillars from attacking newly transplanted seedlings.

28

Hand Removal

In smaller gardens, it‟s a simple matter to find and remove pest insects and drop them in a container of soapy water.

Check the underside of leaves and stems for egg masses as well as mature insects. Catching the pests early in their

development can go a long way toward avoiding a much bigger problem down the line.

Organic Sprays

When insect pests are beyond what is reasonable for hand removal, consider an organic spray such as a horticultural

oil, insecticidal soap, and garlic/hot pepper sprays. Some work by smothering the pests, others make the plants

unpalatable to the insects. Choose a product specific to the insect pest you have. Continued application may be

necessary after plants are exposed to rainfall.

Pest Management - Other Critters

As mentioned previously, the key to insect management in the organic garden is

observation and appropriate response to pest damage. This same idea holds true for other

critters as well. Pest pressure can be particularly high early in the season, when wild food

plants may be scarce. Be vigilant, and you can outwit the critters and keep your harvest.

Identify the suspects

It is important to identify the critters in your garden that may be causing your problems. Try to observe who is

causing the damage, and you can select a countermeasure that has a good chance of working. Develop an

understanding what your particular pest may be after, then try the following tactics.

Change the habitat

If you can remove the food source, or other things that may be attracting the critter in the first place, they will

probably find someplace else to hang out.

Create animal anxiety

Just like most people, critters don‟t like being nervous. Introduce things into the garden landscape that will create

tension in their lives. Try keeping a dog, cat, or a small flock of chickens near or around the garden to keep the

critters on their toes. Predator imitations (fake snakes, owls), shiny objects (i.e. aluminum pie plates blowing in the

wind), or odd sounds may also prove to be successful.

Use barriers

Most critters can be discouraged through the use of row covers such as

Reemay or Agribon. As plants get bigger, you may need to support the row

cover on wire hoops. Secure the edges carefully. Take care to remove the

cover for at least 3 hours every day if blossoming plants require pollination.

Rabbits and groundhogs can be discouraged fairly well with a low (1-2‟ tall)

fence made from inexpensive chicken wire. Bury the fencing a few inches

below the soil to discourage animals pushing under the fence.

29

Particularly stubborn animals that burrow under your fence can most likely be caught in a live trap and relocated. If

your neighbor has dogs (or you have sheep or goats) and you want to keep them out of the garden, something taller

will be necessary (3‟-4‟). If it‟s cats, put your fence posts on the inside of the fence, and use thin wood posts (2” or

less), or metal “T” posts as they will have difficulty climbing them. Deer are difficult to control via standard fencing,

and have been known to clear up to 6‟ tall obstructions with little difficulty. Consider other management strategies

before investing in an expensive deer fencing system.

Repel with smell

Deer and other mammals are sensitive to unusual scents, so try hanging a few mesh bags with fragrant soap, dog or

human hair, or even dirty socks around the garden perimeter. Garlic and/or hot pepper spray is also a possible

deterrent. Remember to reapply after a rain, or if the scent is beginning to wear thin!

30

Reference Resources

Baker, Jerry. Jerry Baker‟s Giant Book of Garden Solutions: 1,954 Natural Remedies to Handle Your Toughest

Garden Problems. Jerry Baker Publishing. 2004.

Bartholomew, Mel. Square Foot Gardening: A new way to garden in Less Space with Less Work. Rodale, Inc.

2005.

Beck, Malcolm & Walters, Charles.The Secret Life of Compost: A “How-to” & “Why” Guide to Composting-

Lawn, Garden, Feedlot, or Farm. Acres U.S.A. 1997.

Bucks, Christine. Great Garden Fix-Its: Organic Remedies for Everything from Aphids to Weeds.

Rodale Inc. 2001.

Campbell, Stu. Let It Rot: The Gardener‟s Guide to Composting. Storey Books. 1998.

Coleman, Eliot. Four-Seasons Harvest: Organic Vegetables from your Home Garden all year long. Chelsea Green

Publishing Company. 1999.

Coleman, Eliot. The New Organic Grower: A Master‟s Manual of Tools and Techniques for the Home and Market

Gardener. Chelsea Green Publishing Company. 1995.

Cunningham, Sally. Great Garden Companions. Rodale Press, Inc. 2000.

Ebeling, Eric. Basic Composting: All the Skills and Tools You Need to Get Started. Stackpole Books. 2003.

Epstein, Eliot. The Science of Composting. CRC. 1996

Fedco Seeds. Seed Saving for Beginners. http://fedcoseeds.com/seeds/seed_saving.htm. 2006.

Fedco Seeds. Vegetable Planting Guide. http://fedcoseeds.com/seeds/veggie_chart.htm. 2007.

Fedor, John. Organic Gardening for the 21st Century: A Complete

Guide to Growing Vegetables, Fruits, Herbs, and Flowers.

Readers Digest. 2001.

Jason, Dan. Greening the Garden: A guide to sustainable growing. New

Society Publishers. 1991.

Jeavons, John. How to Grow More Vegetables*. Ten Speed Press. 2002.

Kaufman, Eli Rogosa. From Generation to Generation: An activity

guidebook in the living tradition of seed saving.

www.fedcoseeds.com/forms/seedschool.pdf. 2001.

31

Larkcom, Joy. The Organic Salad Garden. Frances Lincoln Publishing. 2002.

Rodale, Inc. Organic Gardening Magazine Online. www.organicgardening.com. 2006

Schwenke, Karl. Successful Small-scale Farming: An Organic Approach. Storey Books. 2003.

Topper’s Place. Making Soil Block Molds. http://www.toppers-place.com/soil_blocks.htm. 2008.

Witman, Ann. Organic Gardening for Dummies. IDG Books Worldwide, Inc. 2001.

32

Appendix

Soil Texture Classification Chart

Penn State Crop Rotation Document

Penn State Companion Plants Document

Seed Saving for Beginners

Vegetable Families

Vegetable Planting Guide (NOTE: Planting dates for the Slippery Rock area are approx. a week earlier then listed.)

33

Soil Texture Classification Chart

34

HEALTHY PLANTS START HERE

Crop Rotation

What is crop rotation, and why is it important?

Crop rotation is an easy way to control diseases and insects at no cost.

For example, tomatoes, cauliflower or cabbage planted in the same

location each year will actually encourage buildup of certain diseases in

the soil. By rotating crops, you are removing the host plant and

preventing the spread of disease. Also, as overwintering insects emerge

from the soil in the spring, they expect to find the same plant in the same

place. By moving garden plants around, insect pests will have a harder

time finding their target.

How does crop rotation affect the soil?

Each crop has different fertilizer requirements. By changing the location

of your crops you can avoid the risk of depleting the soil of specific

nutrients. Some crops will actually add essential elements to the soil. By

using crop rotation, you can actually build up the soil over the years.

How do I do this?

It’s easy! Plants are often grouped by families that share similar growth

habits and cultural requirements. By knowing your plant families (and

their garden companions) you can create a plan for your own garden

rotation. The following example divides the garden into four sections. As

you can see, each year, the vegetable groups are planted in a different

section of the garden.

Year 1

Year 2

Reprinted with permission, 2006

Squash/Corn

Cucumbers

Squash, Corn

Pumpkins

Tomato/Potato

Peppers,

Tomato

Eggplant, Potato

Tomato/Potato

Peppers,

Tomato

Eggplant, Potato

Greens

Cauliflower

Cabbage, Broccoli

Lettuces

Greens

Cauliflower

Cabbage, Broccoli

Lettuces

Legumes

Peas

Beans

Pole beans

Legumes

Peas

Beans

Pole beans

Squash/Corn

Cucumbers

Squash, Corn

Pumpkins

35

Year 3

Year 4

There are a few simple rules for crop rotation:

· Don’t follow tomato, peppers or eggplant with potatoes, or each other.

· Allow 3 years before replanting the same group in any given bed.

· Onions may be planted throughout all groups.

· Beets, carrots and radishes may be planted among any group, and

replanted as early crops are removed.

· Don’t forget to interplant with companion plants to minimize pesticide

use. See the Companion Plants handout for some ideas on this practice.

· Keep good notes so you can duplicate successes.

Another interesting idea-“Green Manure”

To help build organic matter, you might also consider using a “green

manure” sometimes called a cover crop. There are both summer and

winter cover crops. Buckwheat makes a great summer cover, and would

be used in conjunction with your garden rotation plan. Cereal rye is a

good choice for fall planting. Sow it after your fall garden cleanup and

then till it under in the spring. By adding organic matter in this way, you

will increase aeration and water holding capacity of your soil, prevent

weed growth and soil erosion, and support the beneficial organisms

necessary for a healthy, living soil.

Where can I get more information?

We’ve only touched on the basics of crop rotation, but as you can see, it

is a great way to reduce, or even eliminate the use of extra fertilizers in

your garden. In addition, you are also building the soil. It is a proven, no

cost method of vegetable production. Organic gardeners have been using

these practices for years. Check your local library, the internet or organic

gardening books and magazines for more information. Your local

cooperative extension office is also a great resource.

Legumes

Peas

Beans

Pole beans

Greens

Cauliflower

Cabbage, Broccoli

Lettuces

Squash/Corn

Cucumbers

Squash, Corn

Pumpkins

Legumes

Peas

Beans

Pole beans

Tomato/Potato

Peppers,

Tomato

Eggplant, Potato

Squash/Corn

Cucumbers

Squash, Corn

Pumpkins

Greens

Cauliflower

Cabbage, Broccoli

Lettuces

Tomato/Potato

Peppers,

Tomato

Eggplant, Potato

This publication was made possible by funding from the U.S EPA, PA Dept. of Ag. Penn State, IPM, Penn State Cooperative Extension.

36

HEALTHY PLANTS START HERE

Companion Plants

What is a companion plant?

· Companion plants help other plants grow.

· Companion plants may enrich the soil by providing nutrients or

organic matter.

· They may provide shade or mulch for shorter plants or bare soil.

· They may prevent pest problems by repelling unwanted bugs, or by

attracting beneficial insects.

· Companion plantings combine more than one crop in a given area, so

garden space is used efficiently.

What kind of plants makes good companions? Many herbs and

flowers make good companions for vegetable crops. The best companion

gardens are a diverse mixture of vegetables, herbs and flowers. Some

companions actually add nutrients to the soil. This reduces the need to

apply additional fertilizer.

What are some examples? Plants with cup-shaped or open flowers are

great for attracting beneficial insects. Borage is a great choice for

attracting these garden friends. Dahlias and marigolds will repel

nematodes in the soil and nasturtiums will deter pests that attack the

curcurbit (cucumber) family. Beans will actually “fix” nitrogen from the

air into the soil. Often strongly scented plants will confuse insect pests

as they are looking for vegetables.

What are some good garden companions? One of the original

companion gardens is the Three Sisters Garden, which has been used

by Native Americans for generations. They plant corn with pole beans

and then underplant with pumpkins or squash. The corn provides a

structure for the beans to grow, the beans add nitrogen for heavy

feeding corn, and the squash leaves act as mulch by shading plant

roots, reducing water evaporation and preventing weed growth.

Reprinted with permission, 2006

37

corn with pole beans and then underplant with pumpkins or squash.

The corn provides a structure for the beans to grow, the beans add

nitrogen for heavy feeding corn, and the squash leaves act as mulch by

shading plant roots, reducing water evaporation and preventing weed

growth.

Other Examples include:

· Sweet alyssum planted under broccoli or among potatoes will attract

beneficial insects and prevent weeds from growing.

· Potatoes and beans make a great combination. They both tend to

confuse each other’s insect pests.

· Tall flowers provide needed shade to lettuce as the weather gets hot.

· Heavily scented plants such as marigolds, basil and artemesia can be

used to confuse pests.

· Plant crops to trap unwanted insects. Potato Beetles love eggplant and

flea beetles love radishes. You can use these plants to monitor insect

levels and, as plants become infested, they can be simply destroyed,

bug and all!

· Yarrow has insect-repelling abilities too, plus its leaves make a great

addition to compost.

· Many herbs will attract the beneficial insects you want into the garden.

Use flowers from the aster family like sunflowers, coneflowers, Black-

eyed Susans and daisies to attract these good guys. Plants from the

parsley family (parsley, corriander, and dill) are also good attractors.

· Experiment and see what works for you.

· Don’t forget to keep a record. You’ll want to duplicate your successes

next year.

As you can see, the key to a good companion garden is diversity!

Where can I get more information?

We’ve only touched on the basics of companion planting, but as you can

see, it is a great way to reduce, or even eliminate the use of pesticides in

your yard. It is a proven, no cost method of vegetable production.

Organic gardeners have been using these practices for years. Check

your local library, the internet or organic gardening books and

magazines for more information. Your local cooperative extension is also

a great resource.

This publication was made possible by funding from the U.S EPA, PA Dept. of Ag. Penn State, IPM, Penn State Cooperative Extension.

38

Seed Saving for Beginners Reprinted with permission 2008

Vegetable Cycle Pollination Pollinator Isolation Distance

Seed Longevity

Notes

Bean A Self 100' 2-3 yrs Lose vigor rapidly.

Soybean A Self 100' 2-3 yrs Space farther apart than for market crops.

Beet/Chard B Cross Wind 1/2 mi 3-5 yrs Beets cross with chards.

Broccoli/Kale/

Cauliflower B Cross Insects 1/2 mi 3-5 yrs

Hot-water treated seeds last only 1 yr. Crossing among brassica species is

complex, consult a good reference book.

Carrot B Cross Insects 1500' 2-3 yrs Crosses with wild species.

Celery B Cross Insects 1500' 2-3 yrs

Corn A Cross Wind 1/2 mi 2-3 yrs Adequate population essential.

Cucumber A Cross Insects 1500' 5-10 yrs Harvest at yellow blimp stage.

Eggplant A Self 150' 2-3 yrs

Leek B Cross Insects 1500' 2 yrs

Onion B Cross Insects 1500' 1 yr

Lettuce A Self 50' 2-3 yrs Start indoors, need long season for seed.

Melon A Cross Insects 1500' 5-10 yrs Muskmelons will not cross with

watermelons.

Mustard A Cross Insects 1/2 mi 3-5 yrs Crosses with wild species.

Pea A Self 50' 2-3 yrs Do not save seed from diseased plants.

Pepper A both Insects 500' 2-3 yrs Some varieties cross more readily than

others.

Radish A Cross Insects 1500' 3-5 yrs

Spinach A Cross Wind 1/2 mi 2-3 yrs

Squash/

Pumpkin A Cross Insects 1500' 2-5 yrs

moschata 2-3 yrs, pepo & maxima 3-5 yrs. These three species generally do not cross.

Tomato A Self 25'-100' 5-10 yrs Potato-leaf types need the greater

isolation distance.

39

Bas ic Def in i t ions

Open-pollinated varieties will grow true to type when randomly mated within their own variety. Seed saved from these plants will breed true, provided the plants have been properly isolated from different varieties of the same species.

Hybrid varieties are those produced from the crossing of two different inbred lines. Seed saved from hybrid varieties will not breed true in the next generation.

Amongst open-pollinated plants, self-pollinated (selfers) usually reproduce by using their own pollen. Crossers usually reproduce through the transfer of pollen from one plant to a different plant of the same species.

Plants are classified into kinds by genus, general kind, and species, specific kind within the genus. For example, some squashes are Cucurbita pepo. Cucurbita is the genus and pepo is the species. A variety is a particular named kind. In Cucurbita pepo Sweet Dumpling, Sweet Dumpling is the variety.

Seed Storage

Keep your seed alive by storing it properly! Humidity and heat are the enemies of seed longevity. Humidity causes the quickest deterioration. Ideal moisture content for most seed is no more than 10-12% so store at low relative humidity. Optimum storage is in a sealed jar in a freezer or refrigerator. Failing that, the sum of temperature plus relative humidity where seed is kept should never exceed 100.

Never store seed in a humid, warm or sunny spot.

Don‟t ever leave it in a greenhouse or hoophouse for even a few hours.

Most seed stored properly will last for several years. A few seeds are good for one year only, such as onions, parsnips, parsley, chives, shiso, scorzonera, Batavian endive, licorice, pennyroyal, St Johnswort, liatris, delphinium, larkspur, perennial phlox, and any seed that has been pelleted or hot-water treated. If in doubt, try germinating a sample of old seed in moist paper towels.

Cycle: A=annual, B=biennial.

Pollination: Self=self-pollinated, Cross=outcrossed, pollinated by another plant.

Isolation Distance: recommended distance by which different varieties must be separated to prevent

unwanted cross pollination.

Seed Longevity: Averages, not guarantees. Seed longevity depends on the conditions under which the crop

was grown and how the seeds have been stored.

Minimum Populations: Crossers require minimum populations to maintain vigor and avoid inbreeding

depression. Recommended minimum number of plants: 25 cucumbers, squash, melons; 50-100 radishes,

brassicas, mustards; 200 sweet corn.

40

Vegetable Families

Apiaceae: Umbrella-like flower head - Celery, Caraway, Dill & Carrots

Asteraceae: Lettuce, Sunflower, Marigold, Chamomile, Zinnia, Chicory, Endive, Salsify,

Dandelion, Endive, Jerusalem & Globe Artichokes

Brassicaceae: Brussels Sprout, Cabbage, Kale, Kohlrabi, Radish, Turnip, Cress, Mustard,

Bok Choy, Broccoli & Cauliflower

Chenopodiaceae: known as the goosefoot family for their characteristic leaf-shape - Beet,

Chard & Spinach

Cucurbitaceae: Cucumbers, Gourds, Pumpkins, Melons & Squash

Febaceae: All Peas & Beans

Gramineae: Grasses, Rye, Oats, Rice, Wheat & Corn

Lamiaceae: Identified by a stem that is a square in cross-section - Sage, Basil, Catnip,

Rosemary, Thyme, Oregano & mints

Liliaceae: Garlic, Onions, Leeks & Shallots

Solanaceae: Eggplant, Potatoes, Tomatoes, Peppers & Nightshades

41

42

VEGETABLE PLANTING GUIDE (Reprinted with permission 2008)

Vegeta-

ble sds/100'

Pkt plants

distance apart

thin to row

spacing seed

depth min soil temp °F

ideal soil temp

hardi-ness

planting date

Amaranth 1/16oz 100' 3" 6" 18" 1/8" 60 70-85 T June 1

Artichoke T 10 pl 3' No 2' 1/2" 60 65-85 MH tp late

Arugula 3g 60' 1" 4" 18" 1/4" 50 65-85 MH May 1/Aug 1

Basil 5g 10-80' 1/2" 4" 18" 1/4" 65 70-85 VT June 1

Bean,

Bush, Dry 8 oz 25' 3" No 2-3' 1" 60 70-85 T late May

Bean,

Fava 1# 12' 4-6" No 2-3' 1" 50 60-80 H April

Bean,

Lima 1# 40-60' 4-6" No 3' 1" 75 70-85 VT late May

Bean, Pole 6 oz 10 pl/oz 6/pole 3/pole 3-4' 1" 60 70-85 T late May

Bean, Soy 5 oz 10' 3" No 3' 1" 60 70-90 T June 1

Beet 1/2 oz 20' 1" 2-4" 12-18" 1/2" 50 65-85 H Apr-July

Broccoli 5g .5g=10' 1" 24-30" 30" 1/4" 50 65-85 MH tp May/June

Brussels

Sprouts 5g .5g=10' 1" 24-30" 24-30" 1/4" 50 65-85 H tp May/June

Cabbage 5g .5g=10' 1" 24-30" 24-30" 1/4" 50 65-85 MH tp May/June

Carrot 10g 1/8oz=35' 1/4"-1/2" 1" 16-24" 1/2" 50 65-85 H Apr-July

Cauli-

flower 4g .5g=12' 1" 30" 30-36" 1/4" 55 65-85 MH tp May/June

Celery/

Celeriac T 500 8" No 2-3' 1/8" 50 55-70 T tp June 1

Chard 11/2 oz 5-13' 1" 3" 18-24" 1/2" 50 65-85 H ASAP

Chicory T 300 pl 1' No 2' 1/8" 50 60-85 H tp late June

Chinese

Cabbage 1/4 oz 25' 1/2" 12-18" 24-30" 1/4" 50 70-95 MH late May

Corn, OP 4 oz 50' 2-3" 1' 3' 1" 60 70-95 T late May

Corn, SE 4 oz 50' 2-3" 1' 3' 1" 60 70-95 T late May

Cress 3g 50-70' 1" 4" 18" 1/4" 50 65-85 MH May 1

Cucumber 1/2 oz 11' 2" 4" 4' 1/2" 60 75-95 VT June 1

Eggplant T 40 pl 20-30" No 30-36" 1/4" 68 75-85 VT tp early Jun

Endive 5g 40' 1" 8" 18-24" 1/4" 50 60-85 H Apr-July

43

Gourds, large T 20 pl 6/hill 2-3/hill 6' 1/2" 60 70-90 T tp early Jun

Gourds, small 1/5 oz 10 hills 6/hill 3/hill 4-6' 1/2" 60 70-90 T late May

Kale/Collards 5g 40' 1" 12" 2' 1/4" 50 65-85 VH ASAP-July

Kohlrabi 4g 50' 1" 24" 24" 1/4" 50 65-85 MH tp May/June

Leek T 600 pl 8" No 2' 1/2" 50 60-80 MH tp May 1

Lettuce 4g 1g=25' 1/3" 1' 12-18" 1/8" 40 50-75 H ASAP-Aug

Melon, musk T 14-20 hills

3/pot 2/hill 5' 1/2" 68 80-95 VT tp early Jun

Mustard 1/8 oz 40' 1" 4-6" 2' 1/4" 50 65-85 MH Apr-Aug

Okra T 30 pl 12" No 2-3' 1/4" 65 70-95 VT tp early Jun

Onion/shallots T 450 pl 4" No 12-18" 1/2" 50 60-85 MH tp May 1

Pac Choi 1/4 oz 30' 1/2" 6-12" 2' 1/4" 50 70-95 MH May

Parsley 1/4 oz 25' 1/4" 1" 12-18" 1/4" 50 50-85 VH Apr-Aug

Parsnip 1/2 oz 25' 1/2" 2-3" 12-18" 1/2" 52 60-77 VH Apr-July

Pea/snow, snap 8 oz 25' 11/2" No 3-5' 3/4" 48 65-85 plants H ASAP

Pea/snow, snap for fall

crop 8 oz 25' 11/2" No 3-5' 3/4" blossoms,pods T July

Pepper T 10-50 pl 12-18" No 2-3' 1/4" 68 75-85 VT tp early Jun

Pumpkin 1/-12 oz 3-8 hills 5/hill 3/hill 6' 1" 60 70-90 T late May

Radicchio 1/2 oz 30' 1" 8-10" 18" 1/8" 50 60-85 H late June

Radish 1 oz 15' 1/2" 2" 18" 1/2" 50 60-85 H Apr-Aug

Rutabaga/Turnip 1/4 oz 40' 1/2" 3-4" 18" 1/4" 50 60-95 H Apr-July

Scallion T 400pl 4" No 12-18" 1/2" 50 65-85 MH tp May 1

Spinach 1/2 oz 40' 1" 2" 12-18" 1/2" 42 60-80 VH ASAP

Spinach, fall crop 1/2 oz 40' 1" 2" 12-18" 1/2" 42 60-80 VH Aug

Squash, patty pan .6 oz 5-8 hills 5/hill 3/hill 4' 1" 60 70-90 T late May

Squash, winter 1/2-2 oz 3-15 hills 5/hill 3/hill 4-6' 1" 60 70-90 T late May

Squash, summer 1/2 oz 5-8 hills 5/hill 3/hill 4' 1" 60 70-90 T late May

Tomato T 50-125pl 3' No 3' 1/4" 60 68-80 T tp June 1-10

Watermelon T 7-14 hills 3/pot 2/hill 5' 1/2" 68 80-95 VT tp early Jun

Zucchini 1 oz 4-6 hills 5/hill 3/hill 4' 1" 60 70-90 T late May

44

Abbreviations Pkt plants = how many row feet or hills our smallest packet will plant

T = transplanted only, in our climate.

tp = transplant

pl = plants g=grams (28.4g=1oz.)

No = not necessary to thin

Hardiness rating VT = very tender: will not survive frost, can be damaged by temperatures under 40°

T = tender: will not survive frost

MH = moderately hardy: survives light frosts

H = hardy: survives frost generally to the low twenties

VH = very hardy: will winter over if protected

Approximate planting date ASAP=as soon as ground can be worked, does not thrive in heat

Approximate planting dates are for our Central Maine climate. Please make appropriate adjustments for your climate, using

hardiness as a guide.

Notes Seed counts are provided as a guide, not a guarantee. They vary from cultivar to cultivar. Planting rates will vary if intensive

methods such as beds are used. Minimum soil temperatures are the lowest we can recommend if you want a good stand.

Planting under slightly colder conditions is possible but germination will be slow and spotty. If you have specific cultural

questions, consult more detailed resources or get in touch with us.

A few seeds with unusually thick or hard coatings may benefit from scarification just before sowing. This is accomplished

by nicking them with a knife, a pinpoint or lightly scratching them with sandpaper. Some seeds need to be stratified before

sowing. This tricks the seed by thinking it has gone through winter followed by the gradual warm-up of spring. It is accom-

plished by first moistening and then chilling the seed for a specified period of time.

Fedco Seeds, PO Box 520, Water v i l le, ME 04903 (207) 873-7333 www.fedcoseeds.com

45

Slippery Rock University is an equal opportunity /affirmative action institution

A member of Pennsylvania’s State System of Higher Education

www.sru.edu

About the Center

The Macoskey Center at SRU was created in 1990 to promote a shift at SRU and in the local

community towards a regenerative partnership with ecological systems.

The Center is located on 83 acres of the university campus and enacts it’s mission in three ways:

Education about sustainability through events, workshops and programs;

Physical demonstration of sustainable technologies and systems; and

Supporting sustainability-focused academic initiatives and research.

The Macoskey Center at SRU

247 Harmony Road

Slippery Rock, PA 16057

(724) 738-4050

macoskey.center@sru.edu

www.sru.edu/ramc

Directions From PA Interstate 79, take exit 105 (Slippery

Rock). Travel east on route 108 to the first light

in Slippery Rock. Turn right onto route 173

south (Main Street). Travel to the second light

and turn left onto Keister Road. Turn left at

next four-way intersection onto Harmony Road.

The Macoskey Center is approximately 1/4 mile

on the right, over the hill and across the road

from the SRU football stadium.

Gro

ve C

ity

Roa

d

258

to

I-79

108

to

I-79 Keister Road

Branchton Road

Har

mon

y R

oad

SRU

Campus Rou

te 8

Main Street

Macoskey

Center

173

173