optimizing foam and mildness with sultaines · tell us what topics you would like to be covered at...
TRANSCRIPT
Next Meeting:
March 9th The Parthenon - Chicago
Menu and Directions inside on page 3.
Please RSVP to Amy Fu by March 5th. ~ ____________________________ -1 afu@alberto com or 708-450-3679.
The Meeting is Free. Dinner is $35 for Members, $45 for Non-Members. Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
Carlson's Corner ........... 2
Meeting Venue ............. 3
Chapter News ............. .4
Feature Article ............... 5
TEAMWORKS ......... 6-8
National News .. ............. 9
Chapter News ...... .. .. .... 1 0
Help Wanted ...... ...... 11
•
_ March 9th ." <" -
\ Chapter Scientific Dinner and Education Meeting
March 30th ' Teamworks Social Night
March 31st Teamworks
April 13th Chapter Scientific Dinner and Education Meeting
SCCoop is published 8 times per year for members of the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists.
Newsletter editor is Sandy Tschantz: STschantz@Lambentcorn,com or Phone 847-249-6743
Advertising rates are $400 annually for each 2 X 2 space. Advertising manager Gary Neudahl is your contact for ad placement andlor waiting list information: [email protected] Phone 708·594-5058
Printing by Flash Printing, Inc. Franklin Park, IL. (847) 288·9101
OPTIMIZING FOAM AND MILDNESS WITH SULTAINES Frank Wagner
Technical Service Manager, HPC -Rhodia, Inc
ABSTRACT Sultaines, while not a new chemistry, offers an alternative to traditional systems or can be used to enhance an existing system. Recent work has shown that sultaines can tender some key foaming benefits as well as mildness to formulations. In this presentation, we discuss several areas that are applicable to personal care formulations. This includes a brief history, the synthesis, common by-products, foaming/viscosity properties, mildness, regulatory and economics of the sultaine chemistry. Several surfactant combinations were studied, whiCh included the effect of degrees of ethoxylation as well as the effect of pH on foaming and foam stability.
810 Frank Wagner of Rhodia Inc. has more than ten years of experience in the personal care industry between his time at Mcintyre Group Ltd. and Rhodia Inc. , where he is currently serving as Technical Service Manager for home and personal care products in North America. Frank has traveled around the world to both deliver and attend techn ical training as a subject matter expert in raw materials used for cleaning compounds and personal care products. He has a diverse background in quality operations, customer service, and technical service. Frank received his B.S. in chemistry from Governors State University, where he also studied computer science.
2010 Attendance Contest Members who attend every meeting through November will be eligible for the contest with bonus points for attending Teamworks, the Golf Outing and the Technical Symposium. We will not be using the game cards, we'll keep track for you. So register early and join us for meetings!
The Midwest Society of Cosmetic Chemists is proud to host
TEAMWORKS 2010 March 30th
6:00 - 10:00pm Social Night
March 31st 8:30am - 12:00pm Free Educational Seminar 12:00pm - 6:00pm Free Suppliers' Tradeshow
See inside for more details
2
C8rl~on'~ Corn{lr We are getting closer to spring each day now! And we have a very exciting month ahead in our MWSCC Chapter.
Our February 9th meeting was cancelled due to the severe snowstorm that hit the Chicago area. However, we plan to bring our speaker, Ronald L. Koch, Ph.D., back later this year to g ive his talk on "Deconstructing Personal Care Products".
We have a very busy month beginning with our Chapter meeting March 9th starting at 4:30 p.m. We are looking forward to hearing from our own Frank Wagner on "Opt imizing Foam and Mildness with Sultaines". We are also returning to one of our favorite locations The Parthenon Restaurant in Chicago. Opal
We have our Socia l Night Tuesday, March 30th from 6:00-10:00 pm. Our theme is a Roaring 20's speakeasy with music and casino games at Hyatt Regency O'Hare in Rosemont, IL. It's going to be a lot of fun! On March 31st we will start Teamworks at the Donald E. Stephens Convention Center in Rosemont, IL with our educational session "Formulating for Marketing Demands" from 8:30 a.m . to noon and follow up in the afternoon with our Tradeshow from noon to 6 p.m. Teamworks Is free to attendees.
I encourage everyone to come to the meetings and additional events . Meet wonderful people! See old friends! Make new friends! Please mark your calendars with the "Save the Dates" for 2010 that are listed on page 10. Our board is working to final ize the specifics of our events and will get the information to you soon. Remember, the best way to stay current on chapter events is to visit our website; www.midwestscc.org
Tell us what topics you would like to be covered at meetings. Tell us what you like about the chapter, tell us what you wou ld like to see changed. Our chapter is for you , for your benefit, for your growth and for your opportunity . Please take advantage of all that we offer.
I hope to see you all on March 9th in Chicago and at Socia l Night and Teamworks!
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SCCoop March 2010. Vol XLII. No.3
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SCCoop March 2010 • Vol XLII. No_ 3 3
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Chap-ter News - - . . . . o· • sec
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Lori Hilson Wins Enterprising Women of the Year Award Excerpt from Enterprising Women by
Monica Smiley Publisher/CEO of Enterprising Women
Enterprising Women, the national magazine for women business owners, has announced its eighth annual list of the "Enterprising Women of the Year." Lori Hilson, President of the TH Hilson Company in Wheaton, IL., was among the top women business owners from across the United States and Canada. She is recognized for outstanding business growth , mentoring and supporting other women in business and leadership in her community.
With an unprecedented number of entries this year, the magazine's editorial team screened hundreds of nominations that were submitted through the Enterprising Women Web site at www.enterprisingwomen.com. The publication's Advisory Board, comprised of more than one hundred outstanding women entrepreneurs from the United States and around the globe, assisted in the final selection process.
"The Enterprising Women of the Year Award is one of the most prestigious recognition programs in the world for women entrepreneurs. In light of the challenging economy, this year's honorees have overcome many obstacles to grow their businesses, give back to others, and really shine as leaders in their communities," Monica Smiley, publisher/CEO of Enterprising Women, said.
The Enterprising Women of the Year Awards Celebration is open to all women entrepreneurs and provides an opportunity to meet and network with the finest women business owners in North America. To register for the Enterprising Women of the Year Awards Celebration or learn more, please visit www.enterorisingwomen.com or call 919-674-6640.
Don't miss out on all the news from the MWSCC chapter!
Please update your contact information immediately by going on our website http://www.midwestscc.org/mailing-Iist/ and updating your contact information. You should also update your information on the national website: httc;//69.36.162.2131SCC Address Change Reauest.htm
New Members
Do you have co-workers new to the cosmetic industry? Please invite them to explore the opportunities and benefits of being a Midwest SCC Chapter Member!
Membership applications are available online at www.midwestscc .org or at the chapter meetings .
SCCoop March 2010' Vol XLII. No.3
-sCG " . ~-. - . Feature Article
I Worry About Genetics So You Don't Have To By
Matt Zoeller Technical Director, Schmit Laboratories, Inc.
Grumble, grumble. The more I read of genetics and proteomics, the more I become convinced I'll need to enact a career change and learn that trade. Why, you may ask? I am becoming aware of the looming reality of the Genetic Salon. Then again, perhaps I read Science too much, so you don't have to.
Ever since I read in 2003 of Dr. Elaine Fuchs' team at the University of Chicago discovering a novel gene expression method of growing hair in mice that were bred to be hairless, I have concluded that ultimately, people in affluent western economies looking to promote youthful appearances will require less of the chemical concoctions that I make a living at formulating and manufacturing, and simply pay a premium to have this done through genetic modification. They will make their appointments at the Genetic Salon. The results will be more dramatic and far longer lasting than any cosmetic product bought at Nieman-Marcus, and a tad safer than cosmetic surgery as it is done today. Mind you, I reached this conclusion before the explosion in research using native stem cell therapy was publicized.
Dr. Fuchs published that paper more than six years ago, and she has since joined a private sector start~up. It should not be long before geneticists (and there are a disturbing number of genetiC "hackers" out there even now), determine a relatively safe, effective way of modifying hair follicles to produce hair that is straight or blonde or glossy or simply there. Demand will plunge for cream relaxers, hair colorants and chemical sheens. As for skin care, the same stem-cell research vectors that promise to attain medical marvels will also turn the 'anti-aging" cosmetic product industry on its head, and then show it the door.
More recent reading supports the theory even better. In an article in an August issue of Nature Genetics, Bruno Reversade, of the Singapore-based research consortium A' STAR, tells of a possible therapy to reverse the aging process of skin and bone (and they really mean it this time.) The PYCR1 gene on chromosome 17 was the focus of their study, a gene located in the mitochondria of cells, the powerhouse if you will , that is important to the synthesis of the amino acid proline. By increasing PYCR1 activity, the group managed to sustain proline metabolism, defying the wrinkling effect of aging skin.
This is not to say that I'm down on all research initiatives in this field. In fact, someday it's possible my life will be saved by a therapy born of stem-cell research, or more likely from the nascent field of tailor-made gene therapy. Indeed one of the top scientific breakthroughs this past year of 2009 was the production of stem~cells from the skin cells of mice by a Chinese research group. The researchers harvested stemcells from the mouse dermis using an innovative technique, thus bypassing the usual embryo source, then went on to reproduce an embryonic mouse. This may lead to the production of replacement organs in people using cells harvested from their own skin, lending a whole new meaning to the term "skin care." Let's hope at least a few of these replacement parts are brain cells, because inevitably geneticists are going to insist on reproducing an actual human - a Mini-Me if you will - and likely will exult in their God-like power, instead of being abhorred by the "Ick! Factor" intrinsic to such an act.
Continued on Page 8.
SCCoop March 2010 • Vol XLII' No. 3
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Feature Article .' . seG sec Midwest Chapter TEAMWORKS 2010 The premier industrial trade show for the personal care industry in mid-America
March 31, 2010· 8:30 AM - 6 PM Donald E. Stephens Convention Center Rosemont, IL
Attendance is FREEl Register online at the SCC Midwest Chapter website (www.midwestscc.org)
TEAMWORKS 2010 - the premier industrial trade show for the personal care industry in mid-America and the best exhibition for formulators among the specialty chemical allied trades. Discover new products and services, renew contacts with suppliers, and discuss individual needs with over a hundred companies.
Buffet lunch! Raffle prizes - including those pre-registered! Bingo Card Prizes! Networking! Don't miss the multi-speaker technical seminar from 8:30 am until 12:00!
NEWI Online Exhibitor Guidel Check out the exhibitors online. All exhibitors are listed alphabetically on the online exhibitor guide. Information is provided about the products and services they offer along with a link to each exhibitor's website. Check it out anytime and plan your trip through the exhibitor hall. http://www.mytradeshows.us/MWSCC/index.php
For further details regarding this event contact: Teamworks 2010, c/o IAMI, phone toll free (888) 411-4264, or email at: [email protected] .
Midwe§t§CC §()dal ~iQht 2()1()
l?()a ... in~ 2()~§ §peakea§y and Ca§in()
Calling all Flappers, Dappers, Bearcats, Sheiks, Hoofers and Dolls. No baloney, we'll enjoy a roaring 20's speakeasy with music and casino games plus food and drink for your piehole. So get a wiggle on , talk to your big cheese, throw on some glad rags, get ready for some hair of the dog and join us as we hit all sixes!
Hyatt Regency O'Hare 9300 Bryn Mawr Avenue, Rosemont, IL. Tuesday, March 30th 6:00 - 10:00 pm
Cost: $115/person, includes two drink tickets The official invitation is on the Midwest SCC website: www.midwestscc.org or register at http://www.midwestscc.org/events/detail/teamworks_201 O_sociaLnighU
6 SCCoop March 2010 • Vol XLII' No. 3
-sec . . . . Feature. Article
TeamWorks Half-day Education Session: Formulating for Marketing Demands March 31, 2010 8:30 am-12:00 pm Donald E. Stephens Convention Center Rosemont, IL
8:30-9:00 Continental Breakfast and Networking
8:50-8:55 Opening Remarks - Gene Frank, Raani Corp.
9:00-9:30 Keynote Presentation: Hardwiring Sustainability into Your Organization's Business Strategy - Peggy Ward, Manager of Corporate Sustainability Programs, Kimberly-Clark
9:40-10:00 Addressing the 'Free-from' Conundrum: paraben-free, sulfate-free, etC.-Tim Kapsner, Senior Research Scientist, Aveda Corp.
10:05-10:20 Coffee Break
10:25-10:45 Formulating for Sensitive Skin - Russell Walters, PhD, Johnson & Johnson
10:55-11 : 15 Formulating for Ethnic Care - Ali Syed, CEO, Avlon Industries
11 :25-11 :45 Improving Sensory Benefits in Hair Care - Michael Wright, Senior Research Scientist, Neloms Salon Hair Care/Alberto Culver Co.
11 :55 Closing Remarks - Rachel Grabenhofer, CaT magazine
Each presentation will be followed by a short Q&A session
Meet the Speakers Here are some of the speakers you will meet at the TEAMWORKS 2010 Education Session.
Peggy Ward, Manager of Corporate Sustainability Programs, Kimberly-Clark Peggy Ward is Manager of the Sustainability Strategy group at Kimberly-Clark Corporation. She leads global advancement of the company's sustain ability strategy. This position places emphasis on developing, implementing and communicating Kimberly-Clark's sustainability strategy plan to internal and external stakeholders. Peggy earned her bachelor's degree in chemistry from Colgate University and a doctorate in physical chemistry from the University of Pennsylvania. She also conducted post doctoral studies at the Universite du Maine in Le Mans, France. Peggy serves on the boards of directors for the Emergency Shelter of the Fox Valley, which provides temporary shelter to homeless individuals and families in a safe environment, and for A Better Colgate which emphasizes change to empower alumni to have a say in the future governance of Colgate University by instituting direct alumni elections of a meaningful number of its ........... _ 1 _ _ ..... I0.I.l
Board of Trustees.
Tim Kapsner, Senior Research Scientist, Aveda Corp. As Senior Research Scientist for Aveda, TIm conducts research in new, innovative and sustainably-sourced ingredients and technologies for use in Aveda products. In this pursuit, Tim led in the development of organic and plant-based surfactants and other ingredients such as sodium coco/babassu sulfate and USP salicylic acid made from oil of wintergreen. Tim has been a pioneer in the development of organic certification standards in the personal care industry. He helped found the Organic Standards Committee as part of the Organic Trade Association (OTA) in 2001. In 2007, TIm helped establish OASIS as a new trade organization focused on creating comprehensive sustainability and organic standards in the beauty and personal care industry-and beyond.
Continued on Page 8.
SCCoop March 2010 • Vol XUI· No.3 7
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Meet the Speakers Continued from Page 7. Michael Wright, Senior Research Scientist, Nexxus Salon Hair Care/Alberto Culver Co • Michael Wright is currently a Project Leader on the Nexxus Salon Hair Care brand. He has nearly 6 years of hair care formulation experience, spending time at Unilever before joining Alberto Culver in 2006. His work has impacted numerous new product launches for the Suave, Axe, and Nexxus hair care brands. He has been an active member in the SCC since starting his career in 2004, and was a 2008 Young Scientist Award winner. Michael earned his B.S. and M.S. degrees in Biology from the Illinois Institute of Technology, in Chicago, IL
I Worry About Genetics So You Don't Have To By
Matt Zoeller, Technical Director, Schmit Laboratories, Inc.
Continued from Page 5
l " tA . ~ There is another dark side to this bullet train known as genetic research, one that describes my own personal doomsday scenario. It goes like this: humanity will one day be wiped out by a megavirus that will be released because a clueless gene hacker or graduate student (hereafter called Destroyer of Men, or DOM) had to order
I ..• ' . ' '"{';' ,_ .'~ .-1, i
a pizza delivered to the lab. One evening while working late and getting tired, DOM orders a pizza delivered. Unknowingly, DOM has residue on his/her hands picked up in the lab that comprises a novel, deadly megavirus that ready to take on another
challenge. DOM had unwittingly created that day while trying to earn tenure, impress the boss, get filthy rich . .. . name your motivation They hand their money to the pizza delivery guy, who takes it and the home-made virus back to the store, where it is passed along. Six degrees of separation stand between all of us, so within a year we are all dead, even the Inuit and the Amazonians.
Don't you love science? I sure do.
Matt Zoeller is a contributing writer and former Editor for the SCCoop. He performs this function for the advance of science - and for his own shameless seff-aggrandizement. He can be reached for comment at: [email protected].
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SCCoop March 2010' Vol XLII' No.3
seG ' ,- -' - - National News
NYSCC Spring Seminar, 0 0
Nanotechnology-The Good, The Frightful, and The Mysterious April 21, 2010. Pleasantdale Chateau, West Orange, NJ
The word nano comes to us from Greek and can be translated, literally, as dwarf or little old man. In more modern times, it has been utilized as a prefix for the International System of Units that indicates that something is 10-9 units in magnitude, e.g. one nanometer is one-billionth of a meter. In most recent history, nano has been defined as an entity having a size of 100 nm or smaller and gave birth to the field of nanotechnology. In our everyday lives, we are exposed to a variety of nano-sized particles, such as polymer-surfactant aggregates, microemulsions, hydrogels, liposomes, micellar structures, and tiny particles that are used as sunscreens. In fact, colloids fall under the umbrella of nanotechnology even though colloid science was born long ago-in the mid-18th century.
In the past two decades, probably due to new research findings and improved instrumentation sensitivities, voices of controversy have been raised in regard to human exposure to nanotechnology. While this technology may bring forth great promise for novelty, it may also carry a potential risko"or does it? Our Spring Seminar this year will provide an overview addressing the following topics:
• Do nanoscale particles penetrate the skin , and under which conditions? • Are nanoparticles toxic to living cells? • Examples of great technologies that were developed and launched with the use of
nanotechnology. • What is the opinion and action taken by different regulatory authorities? • Do nano-entities "obey" rules that are different from the rules in chemistry and physics that are
more familiar to us?
SEMINAR SCHEDULE 8:00 - 8:45 a.m. Registration 8:45 - 9:00 a.m. Introduction -- Nava Dayan 9:00 - 9:45 a .m. Jay Ansell - An update on Nanotechnology and Personal Care Products 9:45- 10:30 a.m. Srikanth Nadadur - NIEHS Research Efforts in Health Implications of
Nanotechnology 10:30-11:15 a.m. Coffee Break 11:15-12:00 p.m. Amy Madl- Considering Physicochemical Characteristics of Nanomaterials
Under A Risk Assessment Paradigm 12:00 -1:15 p.m. Lunch Break 1:15- 2:00 p.m. Phil Wertz - Pathways Across the Stratum Corneum Compositions and
Dimensions 2:00 - 2:45 p.m. Tamara Minko - Nanotechnology Strategies to Overcome Limitations in Drug
Deliverv:Opportunities and Challenges 2:45 - 3:45 p.m. Keynote Speaker: John Crowley - Utilizing Nanotechnology in Drug
Development A Personal StOry 3:45 - 4:00 p.m. Concluding remarks and book signing by John Crowley
COST (Breaks and Lunch Included): • Members - $50 • Non-members - $1 00 • Faculty - $25 • Students - $10.
Unemployed - No charge
NYSCC SPRING SEMINAR REGISTRATION: • Online: www.nyscc.org • Mail: Kristen Presti , c/o Scent & Care Division, Symrise Inc.,
300 North Street, Teterboro, NJ. 07608
CO-CHAIRS of the NYSCC SPRING SEMINAR: • Nava Dayan: (201) 206-7341 • Anna Gripp: (973) 628-3637
SCCoop March 2010. Vol XLII. Noo 3
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Editor's Note
At times our own light goes out and is rekindled by a spark from another person. Each of us has cause to think with deep gratitude of those who have lighted the flame within us. -- Albert Schweitzer
SCCoop would like to thank all the volunteers who have helped to make the newsletter what it is today. These members, affiliates and friends work without compensation and without thought of something in return.
To the writers who share their experience and make us think. To the photographers who capture the moment at our events. To the organizers who put our occasions together down to the very last detail. To the chairs and chair-elects who never have the time to sit until they pass the gavel on. To the proofers who save us all from tiepos, mispels and pure noncense. And to everyone else who has given of themselves to make SCCoop that much better for our members.
Thank You.
Save the Date in 2010
March 30th TEAMWORKS Social Night
March 31st TEAMWORKS
Suppliers' Day & Tech Seminar
May 21st MWSCC Chapter Educational
Seminar
24 MadLton Road, FairficW, NJ 07004 . USA 973439· 1401 • Fax: 973·439·1402
www.Jecn.com · info@lcnl .com INNOVATION IS eN OUR )EENS
YOU CAN COUNT ON US - NATURALLY!
May 10th & 11th NYSCC Suppliers' Day
Raritan Center - NJ.
June 3rd & 4th Annual Scientific Seminar
Area I - Long Island
July 19th MWSCC Golf Outing
30 Two Bridges ROiId, Suitt! 210 Fairfie ld , HJ 07004 Tel; (973) 882-5597 Fa)(! (973) 882·5 178
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SCCoop March 2010 • Vol XLII' No.3
S~G·. -. _.. ... . .. Hel~ Wanted
Situation Wanted
Experienced Chemist with 4 years experience in the
pharmaceutical industry and 3 years experience in the water quality industry, looking for a fulltime position, preferably in the laboratory.
For more information, please contact Ms. Tana Brady at [email protected].
Do you have any employment
opportunities in your company?
Don't forget to post them in the Midwest SCC Chapter newsletter and website. It is easy, there is no fee, and all of our chapter members throughout the industry can view them. E-mail: [email protected] to submit your listing .
make
b eauty a rea li ty
Reminder Unemployed and Emeritus members may continue to attend monthly meetings free of charge. Please fill out the form online and contact the registration booth upon arrival. Unemployed members, in good standing with the see for 5 years, may also continue their membership free of charge by submitting the renewal form with unemployment details to National. Please remember that see Employment Service is here to assist you.
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT ASSISTANT - LIQUIDS
Paris Presents creates and distributes comprehensive brands of makeup tools, bath and body liquids and accessories, travel accessories and nail/niche beauty products. The company is located in Gurnee, IL.
This position coordinates liquid product development by assisting in formula approvals, product t'asting and fragrance development via communication with subcontractors and fragrance suppliers to ensure company standards and deadlines are met in a timely manner. BS in chemistry degree preferred with 1-3 years experience. For more information see http:Uwww,mjdwestscc,org/careers/
Paris Paris has a good benefits package, and is a friendly, exciting place to work.
Please submit resume with salary history to ksteward@parjspresents,com
Providing quality Ingredients lind fonnulatlon Ide •• to the personal car. Industry.
3938 Porett Drive · Gurnee, IL 60031·1281 Phone (800) 432·7187 • Fax (847) 249-6792
www.lambentcorp.com
SCCoop March 2010. Vol XLII. No.3
Your source for speciality chemicals worldwide
RITA Corporation 850 South Route 31
Crystal Lake, IL 60014 USA T 815.337.2500 or toll freel.BOO.426.7759
F 815.337.2522
www.ritacorp.com
_LHallStar , RiF1 ){l
Providing Customized Personal Care Chemistry Solutions
Tec hni cal Suppo rt : 708.594.5058 Customer Service: 877.427.4255
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SENSI E NT' eo~ME'T'C TECHNOI..OOIU --- COSM ETIC COLORA NTS -- SURFACE
TREATMENTS - INGREDIENTS
DISPERSIONS ;11
Brenntag SpedalttM, Inc. 1000 Coolidge St. South Pla infield, NJ 07080 Phone: 800 833-8140 www.brenntagspeclaltles.com
Fine IngredIents, Minerals, Colors. Surface Treatments
11
Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
Sandy Tschantz, Newsletter Editor Lambent Technologies 3938 Porett Drive Gurnee, IL 60031
Personal Care and Pharmaceutical Ingredients
Drug-Certified Facility
" Glycerin "White Oll/Petrolatum
" Surfactants
800.255.3181 University Park, IL www.avatarcorp.com
PELRON""tab 1945
Manufacturers of Personal Care Surfactants & Functional Chemicals including Organo Modified Silicones
7847 West 471h Street, Lyons, illinois 60534 Tel: 708 442 9100 - Fax: 708442 0213
email: [email protected] Elc
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