one of the worlds last great wilderness areas - cape york

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ONE OF THE WORLD’S LAST INTACT WILDERNESS AREAS CAPE YORK Cape York is renowned for its exceptional natural beauty and cultural values. With breathtaking scenic backdrops, extensive sandy beaches, revered Aboriginal legacy and splendid National Parks, it is one tourist destination that no adventure lover would want to miss.

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Page 1: One of the worlds last great wilderness areas - Cape York

ONE OF THE WORLD’S LAST INTACT WILDERNESS AREAS

CAPE YORK

Cape York is renowned for i ts exceptional natural beauty and cultural values. With breathtaking scenic backdrops, extensive sandy beaches, revered Aboriginal legacy and splendid National Parks, i t is one tourist destination that no adventure lover would want to miss.

Page 2: One of the worlds last great wilderness areas - Cape York

“A wilderness is hereby recognized as an area where the earth and community of l i fe are untrammelled by man, where man himself is a visitor who does not remain, in contrast with those areas where man and his own works dominate the landscape.”

The W ilderness Act of 1964 as wri t ten by Howard Zahni ser of The W ilderness Society

Page 3: One of the worlds last great wilderness areas - Cape York

WELCOME Being a tour operator on Cape York came about completely

by chance. I was conducting tours on Fraser Island and

one of the other guides kept talking about this business that

he had for sale. I didn’t think much of it at the time, we

already had a business, but after some discussion we

purchased Off Road Adventure Safaris.

Cape York had always been on my wish-list as a

destination however, even with what I knew, the beauty of

the Cape took me by surprise. We have found that this

holds true for the people that have travelled the Cape with

us. It is a truly unique environment in so many ways and is

currently under consideration for listing as a World Heritage

Area.

It is a privilege to be able to return to the Cape each year

and to show it to people like you. I hope that you enjoy the

information that we have compiled in this book and that it

motivates you to include Cape York into your future travel

plans.

Mark & Jody Essenhigh

Off Road Adventure Safaris

Page 4: One of the worlds last great wilderness areas - Cape York

INTRODUCTION TO CAPE YORK

The intrinsic beauty of Cape York is that it has remained

virtually untouched by humans. The original occupants

lived at one with the environment with no plans or need to

tame that environment. It provided for their needs and in

return they cared for the land.

With the arrival of explorers and settlers the Cape soon

made them aware that if they wished to remain they would

need to adopt similar principles. Many exploration parties

were thwarted in their attempts by their lack of

understanding of the natural environment. Imagine what it

would have been like to be standing in a massive expanse

of lush grassland as your horses, the lifeblood of the

expedition, died because the grasses were poisonous. The

area known as Heathlands, at the northern end of the

Cape, became known as the wet desert for exactly this

reason.

During the monsoonal season much of the Cape becomes

a massive flood plain as rivers and streams break their

banks and blend into each other, leaving isolated islands of

high ground on which the wildlife finds shelter. This is the

time of plenty, when the Cape is at its most magnificent.

Aquatic eggs, laid in the dwindling streams of the last dry,

hatch in their millions providing the basis for a food chain

that will support a plethora of predators. Birdlife, both in

species and numbers, become the dominant feature of

these massive wetlands as they are attracted by primal

urges to feed and breed. As the dry season begins and

the waters recede, the Cape displays an unexpected

Page 5: One of the worlds last great wilderness areas - Cape York

array of lush greens, crystal clear creeks with stunning

waterfalls and vistas that would soften the hardest heart.

Wildlife abounds as the next generation take their first

tentative steps in a new world.

The Cape is considered to have the oldest living culture on

Earth. In many of the indigenous communities traditional

practises are still a part of daily life. The, over 1,200, rock

art sites in the Laura area are considered by UNESCO as

amongst the most important in the world and the

Queensland Government has applied Wild Rivers

Legislation to many areas. There is a growing momentum

to have the Cape declared a World Heritage Area. Big

mining has focused its sights on Cape York, the

ramifications of which could be catastrophic.

Covering an area larger than Great Britain and with a

population of less than twenty thousand people the Cape

remains one of the most isolated areas in the World. There

is only one road that will take you to the northern tip of

Australia and the journey is considered to be one of the last

frontiers. Even with the access provided by the upgrading

of the Peninsula Development Road this is not a challenge

to be treated light heartedly. The skeletal remains of

abandoned vehicles are a testament to the foolhardy who

ventured here unprepared.

Cape York - population 18 thousand - covers roughly the same surface area as Great Britain - population 59 mill ion.

Page 6: One of the worlds last great wilderness areas - Cape York

THE NATURE OF CAPE YORK

With 137,000km² of tropical manors and 4,000km of

secluded coastline, Cape York stretches 1,000km to the

north of Cairns, Queensland. It has a population of

approximately 18,000 and the majority (70%) of its

population is Aborigines and Torres Strait Islanders. Cape

York is a large secluded peninsula and has an outstanding

diversity of remarkable landforms.

LANDFORMS

The varied sceneries and landscapes of this region extend

as trifling topographies across its vastness. Meandering

rivers, grasslands, striking dune fields and the vast

wetlands of Cape York are deliberated among the most

striking in the world.

Unscathed by any tectonic activity, most of Cape York is

marked by extremely desolate plains. At the same time,

some very low, picturesque hills can be observed on the

eastern side of this incredible peninsula.

The Peninsula Ridge, an integral part of Australia’s Great

Dividing Range, is undoubtedly the lifeblood of Cape York.

The foundation of this exceedingly impressive mountain

range consists of primitive Precambrian and Palaeozoic

rocks. The Peninsula Ridge rises to an elevation of

approximately 800m in the McIlwraith Range around Coen.

The Great Dividing Range finishes as an

island 10km from the coast of Papua New

Guinea.

Page 7: One of the worlds last great wilderness areas - Cape York

CLIMATE

Cape York is bestowed with a warm tropical climate, i.e.

with wet summers and dry winters. It experiences heavy

monsoons between November to April, and a

comparatively drier season between May and October.

Average temperature in higher regions is 18°C and on

lowlands is 27°C. A typical summer day in Cape York has

a temperature of around 35°C, and a temperature above

40°C is quite rare. In the same way, temperature below

5°C is quite rare during the winters. April to October is the

best time to visit Cape York.

The Kimberly’s, Top End and Cape York share similar

climatic conditions; however, the latter differs from the first

two because of its relatively wetter climate.

The following winter rainfall figure illustrates this fact:

Source: Bureau of Meteorology, Australia

Cape York supplies almost 30% of the water

for the Great Artesian Basin.

The Cape York Peninsula experiences heavy rainfall during

the summers, with an average annual rainfall of 800mm in

the south and an abundant 2,400mm in the north.

Page 8: One of the worlds last great wilderness areas - Cape York

The following summer rainfall map illustrates the same. It

shows average rainfall conditions during October to April,

which is the northern wet season in Cape York.

Source: Bureau of Meteorology, Australia

RIVER SYSTEMS & FLOOD PLAINS

The Cape York Peninsula is especially known for its

hydrological integrity. With unspoiled river catchments and

water flows, it is able to keep the essence of the tropical

water cycles intact here.

The Coral Sea and the Gulf of Carpentaria are divided by

the Peninsula Ridge, to the west of which lies a sequence

of mighty, meandering river systems such as the Archer,

Coleman, Ducie, Holroyd, Jardine, Mitchell, Watson and

Wenlock. All of these rivers bare themselves in the Gulf of

Carpentaria. Very little of these rivers is seen during the

arid winters as they are belittled to trivial pools and sandy

beds during this season.

To the east, shorter and swifter rivers such as the

Endeavour, Jeannie, Pascoe, Lockhart, Olive and Stewart

Rivers flow to join the Coral Sea. On their journey, these

untouched rivers are ruled with thick dense rainforests,

mangroves and sand dunes.

The valleys of the Laura basin are traversed by rivers such

as the Hann, Laura, Jack, Morehead, North Kennedy and

Norman Rivers.

Page 9: One of the worlds last great wilderness areas - Cape York

FLORA & FAUNA

In terms of vegetation, biodiversity and natural integrity,

Cape York is highly distinguished from relatively drier

regions of Australia. This is primarily because of its

retention of rainforest species which are great examples of

the flora and fauna of the woodlands.

Plant Habitats and Diversity

Cape York features a widespread range of plant habitats

such as Heathlands, Gallery Forests, and Rainforests,

Eucalypt Woodlands, Melaleuca Woodlands, Freshwater

Wetland Communities, Littoral vegetation and Grasslands,

including more than 200 regional ecosystems. The

combination of all these significant habitats paves the way

for a multifaceted natural landscape that is unique to this

part of the Earth.

The majority of these plant habitats spread over the

complete Cape York Peninsula, making it an affluent

montage of habitats. In fact, such is the opulence of Cape

York in terms of plant diversity that in spite of occupying

only 3% of Australia, it encompasses 18.5% of its plant

diversity.

Cape York is especially prominent on the world map

because of the presence of many rare species and

restricted endemics. It is especially rich in life-forms such

as invertebrates, freshwater creatures, mangroves, sea

grass and orchids. Recent research has realised 4 species

of previously unknown freshwater crabs.

There are more than 264 plant species and 6 plant genera

that are exclusively prevalent in the Cape York Peninsula.

Page 10: One of the worlds last great wilderness areas - Cape York

The flora of Cape York consists of the original Gondwanan

species that emerged during the breakup of Gondwanna -

and Indo-Malaya species through the Torres Strait. No

wonder that Cape York, especially its McIlwraith Range -

Iron Range regions, is identified as a nationally significant

area of endemic plants.

Fauna

With an incredible assortment of 40 endemic and 700

terrestrial vertebrate species, Cape York exhibits

unbelievable biodiversity. The fauna of this region is an

amazing mix of Gondwanan relics, New Guinean invaders

and Australian isolationists. Some very rare species - such

as the Buff-breasted Buttonquail, Lovely Fairywren, Pied

Oystercatcher, Eastern Brown Snake and Bramble Cay

Melomys - are found in this peninsula.

INDIGENOUS CULTURE

Cape York’s Indigenous people have occupied this region

for at least 50,000 years, making it the most ancient living

culture on Earth. Aborigines and Torres Strait Islanders

represent the majority of people in this region and it is

interesting to note that approximately 70% of Cape York’s

population is indigenous.

For visitors, getting immersed in the Indigenous culture of

Cape York can be an extremely rewarding experience.

Australia’s Indigenous people have lived in harmony with

the environment since times immemorial. In fact they have,

through the use of techniques such as mosaic burning,

adapted the environment to make it more human-centric,

and thus paving the way for a tradition that facilitates a

Page 11: One of the worlds last great wilderness areas - Cape York

seamless transition between humanity and the physical environment.

Indigenous people use their surroundings and the available

resources for cultural as well as economic purposes, but in

an environment-friendly way.

Hunting and gathering was the primary occupation of the

Aborigines. A thorough and unique knowledge of the land

and surrounding resources made it easier for them to hunt

and gather seasonal food. The majority of the Aboriginal

tribes were mobile groups who changed their location with

season.

Cape York is home to the oldest continuing

culture on Earth.

PERPETUATION OF TRADITIONAL PRACTICES SUCH AS HUNTING

There is no doubt that the colonisation and subsequent

modernisation of Australia have brought radical changes in

the lifestyle of the Indigenous people. Conversely, it is also

true that, on Cape York in particular, the Aborigines and

the Torres Strait Islanders have successfully sustained

their cultural practices to a great extent. This is due, in

part, to the limited impact that the restricted settlement of

the Cape has had on the traditional communities. Many

indigenous people live in a no-mans land, caught between

the modern and traditional worlds. Conversely, a large

proportion of the Indigenous people of Cape York have

sustained their culture for so long by adapting to the

changes around them.

Page 12: One of the worlds last great wilderness areas - Cape York

Some of the very common traditional practices of the

Indigenous people revolved around hunting, amassing and

consumption of marine resources. While preserving such

traditions, the indigenous people exercise caution to limit

hunting endangered animals such as dugongs and marine

turtles. Where as in the past the indigenous people made

use of customary weapons such as wooden spears and

outrigger canoes for hunting and fishing they now use

motor-powered boats, spear guns and fishing rods.

Indigenous people have a great affinity to their

surroundings and this aspect plays a huge role in the

sustenance of their rich culture and heritage.

The people of Seisia and Bamaga originated

from Saibai Island – located 8km south of

Papua New Guinea.

FIRST CONTACT WITH WHITE SEAFARERS IN THE WEIPA AREA

The first documented sighting of the west coast of Cape

York was by Willem Janszoon, captain of the trading ship

Duyfken, in the year 1606. It is also the first recorded

contact between Australian Aboriginals and whites, a story

that took its place in local indigenous folklore.

The first English seafarer to venture into this area was

Captain Matthew Flinders, R.N.; it was Flinders who named

Duyfken Point, to the north of Weipa. Flinders also

documented the finding of “some reddish cliffs” in the south

of the Bay at Pera Head, in the ship’s log.

Page 13: One of the worlds last great wilderness areas - Cape York

Very soon after the arrival of the Europeans in Australia, the indigenous inhabitants were severely hit by a series of foreign diseases such as the common cold and small pox.

The indigenous populace lacked immunity against these

diseases, as a result of which more than half of the

Australian Aboriginal population was wiped out. The

misappropriation of their land and water resources by the

settlers further added misery to their problems. The

inhabitants of Cape York were, in general, spared from this

due to their relative isolation.

THE EMERGENCE OF THE MODERN AND TRADITIONAL ART GANGS AND STYLES

Art and carvings occupy a significant place in Aboriginal

culture. No wonder almost all indigenous communities

living on the Cape York Peninsula are known for creating

dynamic artworks that are appreciated all over the world.

The Lockhart River ‘Art Gang’, Aurukun, Hope Vale and

Kowanyama are a few of the communities that are popular

for their art works. Wei’num is another art and craft

initiative that has started to gain popularity. Wei’num was

started by five artists who belonged to the communities of

Napranum, Weipa and Mapoon.

Till recently, the Aboriginal artists were not very organised.

However, things have started to change for the better with

the landmark exhibition ‘Story Place’, which was organised

by the Queensland Art Gallery. The success of this

exhibition has encouraged the growth of the art centres

and an explosion of a new style of indigenous art that

blends tradition and the modern world.

THE LAURA REGION

Quinkan Country

The area is noteworthy for its Aboriginal rock art, initially

painted by the Ang-Gnarra people as much as 40,000

years ago. The associated petro glyphs (rock etchings)

only became known to white Australians when an amateur

archaeologist discovered them in the late 1950s.

UNESCO has identified the sites of this region as one of

the ten most important primitive art sites in the world.

Page 14: One of the worlds last great wilderness areas - Cape York

While there are over 1,200 recognised art sites within the

Laura Region only a small number are accessible to the

public. Many of the sites are ceremonial and can only be

attended in the company of an initiated person; these

paintings reveal some of the Ang-Gnarra's most sacred and

secret ceremonies.

One such site was used for manhood ceremonies. Spirit

figures are used to depict expectations; a grotesque

monster, a female figure, and a man with a missing tooth.

An adolescent Aboriginal boy had to endure elaborate

circumcision rites, living in silent isolation until his scar was

healed. Then, an older woman would teach him about

sexual relations. The monster illustrated what he would

become if he violated tribal taboos.

As his initiation process continued, he had a front tooth

knocked out. The Ang-Gnarra believed in life after death,

and that spirits rise up to a heaven called Woolunda, where

they encounter Big Uncle, the gatekeeper. He tells them a

joke, and when they laugh he can see their teeth. If one is

missing, then they are allowed to enter Woolunda.

Big Uncle is depicted as tall and thin, coloured in red with

white outlines. His eyes bulge white, and his long arms and

fingers are outstretched. Big Uncle is not really his name,

but his true name is so sacred it may never be spoken out

loud.

The most notable depictions in the paintings are Quinkans.

There are the Timaras also known as the ‘Tall People’ (kind

spirits) and the Injims (bad spirits).

The malevolent Injims come out of their hiding places,

cracks in the rocks, and sneak around at night. They love to

create mischief and mayhem and they use purri-purri black

magic to catch humans so they can devour their body fat.

The Timaras put everything back to how it should be.

Archaeologists digging at one of the rock art sites were

confused when they found several quartz crystals, which

are not native to the area. An Ang-Gnarra elder explained

the mystery. He said they were for protection against

Quinkans. The crystals would be placed in a campsite

where people were sleeping around a fire. Any Quinkan

trying to sneak up on them would see flashes of firelight

reflecting in the crystal facets and be driven back into the

shadows. Even today the local people get nervous if asked

to talk about Quinkans after dark.

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Cape York is our homeland,

the birth place of our fore-fathers.

The spir i ts of our fore-fathers l ive here in these

serene rocks and sandstone cl i f fs.

The art that you admire on the rocks was created

by our ancestors.

The good and the bad Quinkans are

active at the night.

The art of the past connects us to our present.

Cape York is our motherland and our ancestors

belonged to this place.

You have to get acquainted with our roots to

appreciate the Aboriginal way.

This land is al l we need as i t gives us everything –

food, home, t radi t ion, art , law and cul ture.

These aspects are integral part of our being and

dreams, we l ive that way.

The land, the ar t, the law, the cul ture, the heri tage,

al l these aspects work together here, making our

l ives content .

A u t h or U n kn ow n ( Q u i n kan A r e a)

The Laura Dance Festival

Any writing on the art and culture of the indigenous people

of Cape York is incomplete without the mention of the

Laura Dance Festival. It is a biennial festival that exhibits

the rich culture of the Aborigines and Torres Strait

Islanders through dance and ceremonies.

The Dance and Cultural Festival of the Laura region is a

magnificent celebration of the Aboriginal culture.

Aboriginal communities from the Palm Island, Mornington

Island, Cairns, Djarragun College, Hope Vale, Cooktown,

Coen, Injinoo and several other towns and villages, come

together to participate in this celebration of culture. It would

not be an exaggeration to say that this grand festival is a

treat for the eyes and senses of all visitors and tourists.

Visitation at the 2011 festival was in excess of 5,000

people.

Page 16: One of the worlds last great wilderness areas - Cape York

THE EXPLORERS, SETTLERS AND ADVENTURERS

While many claim that a Chinese maritime convoy, led by

Admiral Zheng made landfall on Cape York in the early

fifteenth century, the first universally acknowledged and

documented European sighting of the Cape York was by

the Dutch sailor, Willem Janszoon, in the year 1606.

Janszoon, a Dutch East India Company employee, was

ordered by his employer to explore the New Guinea coast

in the quest of lucrative economic prospects. Sailing from

Bantem, Java, in the Dufkyen, Janszoon was able to

document the first landing of Europeans in the Cape York

Peninsula in 1606. This expedition made him the first

European to have set foot on Australian soil pre-dating Dirk

Hartog’s discovery of the west coast by some 15 years.

Janszoon further charted towards Cape Keerweer, to the

south, where he and his comrades had to face hostility from

the local aborigines. Retracing his route to reach Banda he

missed an opportunity to discover the Torres Strait.

The information supplied by Willem Janszoon stirred Dutch

interest in the ‘south land’, especially as they expected to

find precious commodities there. Moreover, the Dutch, at

that point in time, also were looking for lucrative

opportunities to trade with indigenous people. It did not

surprise many when the then Governor-General of the

Dutch East Indies, Pieter de Carpentier, sent two ships –

the Pera and the Arnhem – on a journey of exploration

under the authority of Jan Carstenszoon, in the year 1623.

Both the ships succeeded in landing on the islands of

Taminbar, Kal and Aru, as they sailed towards the south-

west coast of New Guinea and on to the coast of Cape

York. However, Carstenszoon, like Willem Janszoon, was

not to find the Torres Strait. Moreover, he was of the

opinion that New Guinea was a part of the southland and

was not an island. While in the area Carstenszoon named

the Gulf of Carpentaria, in honour of the Governor General.

Arnhem Land is named for one of the ships used in his

expedition.

At the t ime of European contact, the region

consisted of 43 tribal nations, each with its

own language and tradit ional practices.

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JAMES COOK

It was not until 1770 and Lieutenant James Cook’s

‘Voyage of Discovery’ that this area would once again be

visited by Europeans. The Dutch stories of a ‘great south

land’ had created interest amongst the English heralding

the appointment of Cook to lead an expedition to claim

new lands for the Empire. Following previously travelled

routes, Cook made land on the southern section of

Australia’s east coast.

While travelling north through the uncharted Great Barrier

Reef his ship, the Endeavour, was damaged on a reef and

was in danger of sinking. The ship was beached in what

we now know as the Endeavour River and the current site

of Cooktown. During the six weeks that it took to make

repairs there were numerous contacts with the local

Gungarde and Guugu Yimithirr people. Most of these

interactions were quite amicable until the whites broke a

taboo regarding the eating of sea turtles.

During the time ashore many words of the local language

were recorded including Gangurru, their name for the

animal that we know as the Kangaroo.

Having completed repairs, the Endeavour was re-launched

and the journey north continued. Rounding the tip Cook

landed on what we now know as Possession Island where

the flag was raised to claim the entire east coast of the

country. He also named Cape York for the Duke of York, a

patron of the expedition. This also led to the discovery of

the Torres Strait and the naming of many of the islands in

the local area.

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EDMUND KENNEDY

Edmund Kennedy was the first European to instigate an

overland expedition to Cape York.

When Thomas Livingstone Mitchell discovered the Barcoo

River, Edmund Kennedy was his deputy. They left Buree in

New South Wales in November 1845, to find an overland

route to the Gulf of Carpentaria. The expedition was

unsuccessful, and returned to Sydney in January 1846.

Edmund Kennedy started his expedition to Cape York from

Rockingham Bay (near the present town of Cardwell) in

May 1848, and it would not be an exaggeration to say that

his voyage was not only one of the most ambitious, but it

was also one of the most tragic and ill-fated of all

expeditions in the Australian history, especially as only

three out of the thirteen men survived.

Once landed, the party encountered terrible terrain such as

mangrove swamps, mountains, lagoons, rivers, and thick

rainforest that made it almost impossible to travel. After two

months, they had only travelled about 20mi. into the interior.

The expedition separated into two groups. One group

stayed behind, and the other group went north to meet the

supply ship. In the area of Cape Weymouth one man

accidentally shot himself and could not continue, so two

men were left to help him. Kennedy and a young aboriginal

man in the expedition, Jackey Jackey, went on to try to find

the ship. Kennedy was killed by aborigines at Escape River

near Cape York. He was 20mi. from his goal. Jackey

Jackey made it to the supply ship alone on 23 December

1848.

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In 2008, one hundred and sixty years after the original

expedition, descendants of Edmund Kennedy’s team set

out on a journey into Cape York to retrace the footsteps of

their ancestors. Tim Daniel, the leader of this expedition,

and the group followed the exact route of Kennedy’s

original expedition with the help of historical maps, charts

and journals.

The story of the fateful Edmund Kennedy expedition as

well as the associated retrace journey is an incredible

testimony to the Australian spirit, determination and

resilience, and has deservingly been captured by reputable

Australian filmmakers Chris and Rosie Browning.

THE JARDINE FAMILY

One of the greatest but least celebrated achievements in

Australian pioneering was the ambitious attempt to

establish a settlement on Cape York in 1863. Described as

the ‘Singapore of the Pacific’ it was envisaged that this

would become a major trading point and add protection to

the area from foreign settlement.

This earliest of European settlements on the Cape York

Peninsula was suggested by Sir George Bowen, the first

Governor of Queensland. The Western shore of the island

of Pabaju (Albany Island) was the selected site, and it was

later decided that the settlement should be established on

the opposite side of the island. Sir George Bowen

appointed John Jardine who, accompanied by his wife

Elizabeth, was appointed Police Magistrate and charged

with the responsibility to oversee the establishment of the

outpost.

At the same time John’s eldest sons, Frank and Alexander

set out from Rockhampton to overland stock to support the

settlement. Accompanied by four Europeans and four

Aboriginals they left Rockhampton in May 1864 with 42

horses and 250 cattle. On the ten month trek of 1,200mi.

(1,931km) they were constantly harassed by Aboriginals,

forced their way through jungles, scrub and swamps and

crossed at least six large rivers. At the Mitchell River they

withstood a major Aboriginal attack.

Clad in tatters, wearing hats of emu skin and living on

turkey eggs, they reached Somerset in March 1865 with

12 horses and 50 cattle.

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Both brothers were elected fellows of the Royal

Geographical Society and received the Murchison grant.

Their arrival in Somerset was the stepping stone for the

Jardine legend on Cape York.

In 1866 Frank settled on a station at Lockerbie, near

Somerset. When his parents returned to Rockhampton in

1868 he was appointed police magistrate. On 10 October

1873, at Somerset, Jardine married the seventeen-year-old

Sana Solia, niece of the King of Samoa; they had four

children.

In 1884-86 he was in charge of transport for the

construction of the Cape York Telegraph Line and in 1890

was prominent in searching for survivors from the wreck of

the steamer Quetta.

After the Government station was moved to Thursday

Island in 1877, Jardine’s home at Somerset was the centre

of civilisation on Cape York. Elaborate dinners for visiting

dignitaries were served on silver plates made from Spanish

dollars found by Jardine on a reef in 1890.

He died of leprosy on 18 March 1919 and was buried near

the beach at Somerset. He was survived by his wife, two

sons and two daughters.

The Jardines contributed significantly to the geographic

knowledge of the Cape York Peninsula. In fact, it would not

be an exaggeration to say that their contribution was the

greatest; the only exception could have been Kennedy’s

notes, if they had been preserved.

ROBERT LOGAN JACK

Robert Logan Jack, originally from Scotland, was appointed

Geologist for Northern Queensland in March 1876. He

arrived in the colony in April 1877, and soon afterwards was

made geologist for the whole colony, succeeding Richard

Daintree. An early piece of work was an examination of the

coal resources of the Cooktown district, and in August 1879

he began an exploring expedition to the most northerly part

of Queensland in the hope that payable goldfields might be

found.

A second expedition was made towards the end of the

year, and though no field of any great value was

discovered, much was added to the knowledge of the

country. The party endured many hardships and Jack

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himself was speared through the shoulder by

hostile aborigines.

He reported on many gold, tin, silver and sapphire areas,

and his early work led to the search for artesian water and

the construction of the first government bore in the Great

Artesian Basin. As part of his expeditions he mapped the

coal sites in Bowen, Flinders River and Townsville.

He was also a prolific author on the geology, mineralogy

and palaeontology of Queensland.

WILLIAM HANN

William Hann, the principal squatter of Maryvale Station on

the Burdekin, explored the last remaining uncharted

regions in Eastern Australia which were in close proximity

to the base of the Cape York Peninsula.

In 1872 William was given charge of a well-organised

official party to explore the interior of the Cape York

Peninsula. The country was difficult and Hann was often

irked by assistants whose bushcraft was less competent

than his. Dense scrub prevented him from reaching his

goal on the Endeavour River but the party located some

fair pastoral country and discovered and named the Tate,

Daintree and Palmer Rivers.

Hann greatly underestimated the potential of the alluvial

gold he found in the Palmer River which eventually was

developed into one of Australia’s richest gold fields.

He further proceeded northwards to ascend the highlands

and to sight the Pacific Ocean at Princess Charlotte Bay.

On his backward journey, he discovered the Normanby

River.

Ironically Hann, who had come close to bankruptcy as a

sheep farmer had a ready market for his cattle amongst

the 30,000+ that flocked to the Palmer making him one of

the area’s most prosperous citizens.

He died suddenly while swimming near Townville on 5

April 1889, survived by his wife and two daughters. A

daring horseman and whip and a first-class bushman,

Hann was notable among the first general of North

Queenslanders.

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JAMES VENTURE MULLIGAN

Apart from the expedition of Edmund Kennedy and the occasional coastal contact of a few other explorers, the Cape remained largely untouched until the expeditions of James Venture Mulligan.

James Venture Mulligan is a man whose deeds are not

known to many. Yet he was probably North Queensland’s

greatest explorer and prospector - a man who did more

than anyone else to open up the vast mineral areas of

Cape York Peninsula and the hinterland of Cairns.

Ironically he moved to Queensland after being omitted from

the ill fated Burke and Wills expedition through Central

Australia.

Setting out from Georgetown in June 1873 Mulligan and his

party initially followed the route taken by Hann in an earlier

expedition. After three months of prospecting the Palmer

River they returned to Georgetown that September with

102oz. of high quality alluvial gold. The Palmer area was

soon overrun by more than 30,000 prospectors. This was

probably Mulligan’s greatest triumph. It was a discovery

that had far-reaching effects on the whole of Queensland; it

led to the founding of Cooktown in October 1873 and the

opening up of the whole of the Colony north of Cardwell

and Georgetown which were then the most northerly

outposts. He made six journeys through the predominantly

unexplored southern regions of Cape York from 1872 and

1876.

In his older years Mulligan purchased the hotel at Mt

Molloy. This was to bring his life to an unfortunate end

when he tried to protect a woman from a drunkard and was

fatally injured in the melee.

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FRANCIS BIRTLES

The challenge of crossing the treacherous landscape of

the peninsula continued. In 1918, Francis Birtles, the

‘Adventurous Overlander’, rode a bicycle to the tip of the

Cape through 960km of rough mountains and jungle

scrubs.

You would think an adventure like this would be well

documented however very little can be found about this

particular journey. The main reason probably being that in

comparison to other adventures undertaken by Birtles,

riding a pushbike to Cape York was like a Sunday ride.

By 1912 he had cycled around Australia twice and had

crossed the continent seven times.

In 1912 Birtles completed the first west-to-east crossing of

the continent with Syd Ferguson and his terrier, Rex, in a

single-cylinder Brush car. In 1914, with Frank Hurley as

cameraman, he made 'Into Australia's Unknown' and in

1915 he retraced their route and was responsible for the

film 'Across Australia in the Track of Burke and Wills’ and

in 1919 he made 'Through Australian Wilds', following (by

car) the track of Sir Ross Smith. In 1926 he set motoring

speed records from Melbourne to Darwin and Darwin to

Sydney (7 days) in a Bean car named 'The Sundowner'.

By mid 1927 he had completed more than seventy

transcontinental crossings. Added to these he was the

first to drive a car from London to Melbourne in 1927, a

feat that would not be repeated until 1955.

Birtles took advantage of, and was a product of, that era

when adventure and minor fame could be found in

accomplishing ever quicker and more daring journeys by

bicycle and motor car.

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THE BABY

The first car to be driven to the tip of Cape York was an

Austin 7 affectionately known as a ‘Baby Austin’. This

journey was one of many undertaken by adventurers

Hector McQuarrie and Dick Matthews, both from New

Zealand.

The year was 1928 and the Austin 7 had made a name for

itself as ‘the big car in miniature’. Affordable and reliable

were the words synonymous with the baby Austin and

when production finished in 1939, almost 250,000 cars had

been produced.

Commencing their journey from Sydney, McQuarrie and

Matthews had numerous adventures on the way north

which allowed them to assess what the car was capable of.

By the time they reached the southern section of Cape York

they had travelled through difficult terrain however they

were about to travel into an area that had rudimentary

roads at best. Add to this the numerous rivers, marshlands,

mountains and floodplains that had to be traversed and this

became an epic journey for its time. Fuel and supplies

were an issue and at one stage they had to detour to Weipa

to replenish their needs. At that time Weipa was nothing

more than a barge landing where cattle were shipped off to

market.

Upon reaching Heathlands, they enlisted the help of two

aboriginal boys to act as their guides to get them as far as

the Jardine River. At each of the river crossings they would

construct a raft of logs and float the car across. This

involved them swimming the raft with the ever present risk

of crocodiles to contend with.

Having reached the tip of Cape York the car was

transported by barge to Thursday Island where it was

purchased by Mrs Vidgen, daughter of Frank Jardine.

Upon the return to Sydney of McQuarrie and Matthews the

agent who originally sold them the car set about buying it

back to put on display at the dealership, a clever marketing

move that saw sales of this car increase dramatically.

McQuarrie and Matthews went on to do a tour of the world

and their precious Baby was presented to them as a gift by

the agent. While in transit to America aboard the ship

Tahiti disaster struck and the ‘Baby’ went to rest on the

bottom of the ocean. McQuarrie and Matthews continued

with their adventure and upon arrival in America bought a

replacement vehicle - a Baby Austin.

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THE OVERLAND TELEGRAPH LINE

After James Mulligan discovered gold on the Palmer River

in 1873, a widespread need for effective, efficient and

swift communication to connect Cape York to the rest of

the world was felt by many. The telegraph lines ran along

the settlements of the miners and the pastoralists.

Junction Creek, located near Mt Surprise, was connected

to Normanton and Cardwell in 1872.

In 1876 there was a surge in the construction of telegraph

lines that connected Cooktown, Laura, Palmerville,

Junction Creek, Maytown and therefore Brisbane. At that

point in time, Cooktown was the second largest settlement

in Queensland.

This motivated the Government of Queensland to instruct

John Bradford to construct an electric telegraph line

extending the length of Cape York and to Thursday Island.

Since Bradford was experienced as the Lines and Mail

Route Services Inspector, the surveying and construction

of the telegraph line, though challenging, was a fairly

routine task for him.

It is important to mention here that while the rest of

Australia was quite privileged in terms of telephony traffic

at that point of time, Cape York was left behind

considerably; it was only in the late nineteen eighties that

Cape York was facilitated to communicate with the rest of

the world through dial telephones.

Originally bui l t in the 1880’s the l ine was

operational unti l 1987.

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In 1884, Bradford succeeded in linking Fairview and Coen,

on the southern cape, through the first section of the line. In

the next phase, the northern section of the telegraph line,

which surrounded the Jardine River catchment, was

completed. In this phase, a chain of telegraph stations were

constructed along the line. All the telegraph stations were

designed like fortresses; the motive behind the design was

to protect the station workers against the hostility of the

local Aborigines.

The Musgrave Repeater Station was inaugurated on the 23

December 1886, which was closely followed by the Coen

station. Repeater stations had massive banks of batteries

and a generator to boost the strength of the signal through

the wires.

The Cape York Peninsula telegraph line was operational in

1886; the 90km between Mein and Moreton being an

exception as the telegrams and mail in this area were

carried by horses until the construction of the line was

accomplished. The Mein station was opened in July 1887,

and the McDonnell and Patterson stations were opened in

August, 1887. At the same time, the underwater cable link

to Thursday Island was also finished, thus facilitating easy

communication to Brisbane through Morse code.

The Cape York Telegraph line was officially opened in 1887, thus enabling the residents of Cape York to overcome their seclusion, through feasible connection with the rest of the world.

For more than a decade, the telegraph line had to face

quite a few challenges from the local Aborigines who used

the wire and insulators from the telegraph line to craft fish

hooks, spears and similar equipment. This was eventually

overcome by leaving extra wire and insulators at regular

intervals along the line.

The construction of the telegraph line was no doubt a

herculean task; however, its maintenance was no walk in

the park either. In fact, it was extremely difficult to maintain

the line, with two or three people employed at each

telegraph station for more than sixty years. For much of the

time that it was in operation the staff carried out inspections

and maintenance of the line on horseback.

The telegraph line experienced a major overhaul during

World War II where it was upgraded from a single line

to a four line capability. Due to the importance of

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communication during the war the upgrade was

completed in less than six months by a joint workforce

from made up of Australian and American servicemen.

In 1914, the telegraph network was supplemented in

Cooktown and Thursday Island via shoreline radio

stations. There were a number of upgrades in 1967,

during which a telegraph line was built to link to Weipa.

The telegraph line remained active for almost a century

until 1987, after which it was dismantled. Microwave

towers are today a common sight in Cape York, equipping

the residents and settlements with efficient STD services.

Nowadays, the Old Telegraph Track, as it is affectionately

known, is accessible only during the dry season. It is

primarily an unmaintained road that passes through some

incredibly beautiful sceneries, surreal river crossings and

treacherous patches of deep sand. One can find bush

camps at the majority of the creek crossings. The

Telegraph Track is an integral part of the journey of

innumerous travellers who want to get a real feel of the

adventure, folklore and exquisite sceneries offered by

Cape York.

The l ine needed constant maintenance as the Aboriginal people would remove the wire and ceramic isolators to make fish hooks and knives.

CAPE YORK WILDLIFE

The Cape York Peninsula is undoubtedly a wilderness

area of astounding contrasts. The incredibly varied fauna

of Cape York is bound to surprise and delight any visitor.

With over 500 species of terrestrial vertebrates, Cape

York is a nature lovers dream come true. The terrestrial

vertebrates are comprised of frogs, reptiles, birds and

mammals. The remarkably varied fauna is a direct

consequence of the broad range of habitats and the

prevalence of pre-Holocene species from Asia and Papua

New Guinea.

Cape York has over 40 endemic vertebrate

species.

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While a majority of the wildlife in Cape York is the same as

the fauna in other parts of Australia, Cape York is also

blessed with some species that are exclusively found in this

area and New Guinea. Tree Kangaroos, The Spotted

Couscous and Palm Cockatoos are as synonymous with

Cape York as the Dingo is to Fraser Island.

BIRD SPECIES

Diverse habitats such as eucalypt woodland, beaches, vine

forests, riparian rainforests, thickets, mangroves, swamps,

melaleuca woodland, sedgeland and saltpans are

conducive to the propagation and survival of bird species in

Cape York. One can find over 260 bird species in Cape

York. Some of the specialties of this peninsula are Palm

Cockatoo, Trumpet Manucode, Yellow-billed Kingfisher,

White-streaked Honeyeater and the Magnificent Riflebird.

During the rainy season, breeding Red-bellied Pittas are

also very commonly sighted. Palm Cockatoo and Golden

Shouldered Parrot are two of the most appealing bird

species of this region. Cape York and in particular the

lowland rainforests of the Iron Range region are home to

the northern most populations of Cassowaries in Australia.

Palm Cockatoo

The Palm Cockatoo is an intelligent bird species that is

found exclusively on the Cape York Peninsula and the New

Guinea region. It is by far the largest and smartest of all

cockatoos in Australia. Palm Cockatoos are especially

known for their complicated social system.

During the mating season a male Palm Cockatoo will stand

perched near the opening of a nest hole; stretching its

wings, and then gradually raising its crest and blushing. He

moves his facial feathers to deliberately reveal the beautiful

red patches on his cheek. And as if that was not enough to

impress his female counterpart, he begins to stamp his feet

hard and starts drumming a specially selected stick that is

held in his foot or beak to make a loud noise, thus securing

the name the drummer for himself. The female cockatoo

reciprocates interest by revealing the reddish patches on

her cheeks; conversely, she keeps her cheeks covered if

she is not interested.

The Palm Cockatoo is only found on Cape

York in Austral ia.

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The entire process is complemented by the male

cockatoo’s outstretched wings and whistles. The

drumming sound produced suggests the quality of the

nest hole that is made available to the female. The sound

is also intended to exhibit ownership to neighbours and

potential usurpers.

It is interesting to note that the Palm Cockatoos in other

geographical regions such as New Guinea do not exhibit

this trait of percussions, perhaps because of the less

fierce competition and thick forests that do not facilitate

sound to travel beyond a few yards. This use of the stick

by the Palm Cockatoo is the only recorded use, in the

avian world, of a purposeful tool. Researchers have

observed individual males make a number of drum sticks

before finding one that gives the required note. After

being accepted by a female the stick is shredded and

added to the nest material.

Palm Cockatoos do not limit their visit to one particular

nest hole; in fact, they stay and retain a number of nest

holes in their terrain. Preferring heavy cover, they typically

choose woodland eucalypts or rain forest trees. A very

interesting feature of this bird is that it changes the colour

of its unique red cheek patch during distress and

excitement. The Palm Cockatoo has a very poor breeding

success rate, lower than any other species of parrot,

especially as they lay only one egg every second year.

Golden Shouldered Parrot

The Golden Shouldered Parrot is a small, intensely

coloured, seed-eating, parrot that lives in termite mounds

in the Cape York Peninsula. While this species could be

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earlier spotted in Cape York areas such as Croydon, Chillagoe, Laura, Coen and Weipa, its occurrence is now limited to the headwaters of the Morehead River catchment and Staaten River National Park. It can also be found in

protected areas such as Artemis Antbed Nature Refuge,

McIlwraith Range National Park, Holroyd Nature Refuge,

Mungkan Kandju National Park and Lakefield National

Park.

The male Golden Shouldered Parrot is turquoise coloured

with a dark crown, perfectly complemented by the bright

yellow on the wings and forehead, and a salmon-pink on

the belly. Females and immature birds of this species are

found in shades of green with a turquoise rear-end.

If the official numbers are accurate, there are less than

2,000 Golden Shouldered Parrots living in the wild today.

Predation by Butcher Birds, congealing vegetation,

shortage of food and nest sites, incongruous fire regimes

and overgrazing cattle are some of the primary reasons

behind the current endangerment, region restrictions and

declining numbers.

This parrot prefers to nest in termite mounds on hilly grassy

woodlands and grasslands where the temperature seldom

falls below 10°C. During the dry season, this bird spends

most of the time on sand ridges in eucalypt woodlands. At

the commencement of the rainy season, they migrate to

gravelly slopes, rock-strewn hills and gleaming grass flats,

where they can easily find fallen seeds. They spend the

entire wet season in the hills; however, they also stopover

at the storm burnt areas in the lowlands quite often.

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Cassowary

Cassowaries are outstandingly stunning birds. They have

a unique beauty with their dark lustrous feathers, striking

blue neck, large eyes and eyelashes and a magnificent

casque (bone like structure) on the head. They are birds

of imposing profile, with the average female growing up to

2m in height and 80kg in weight. The Southern

Cassowary, the species found in Australia, is the third

tallest and second heaviest living bird, smaller only than

the Ostrich and Emu. Cassowaries feed mainly on fruit,

although all species are truly omnivorous and will take a

range of other plant food including shoots, grass seeds,

and fungi in addition to invertebrates and small

vertebrates. Cassowaries are very shy, but when

disturbed, they are capable of inflicting serious injuries.

In his book ‘Living Birds of the World’ from 1958,

ornithologist Thomas E. Gilliard wrote:

"The inner or second of the three toes is fitted with a long,

straight, murderous nail which can sever an arm or

eviscerate an abdomen with ease. There are many

records of natives being killed by this bird."

Cassowaries can run at up to 50km/h (31mph.) through

the dense forest. They can jump up to 1.5m (4.9ft.) and

they are good swimmers, crossing wide rivers and

swimming in the sea as well.

This species also attracts attention for the fact that the

male Cassowaries incubate the eggs and raise the

offspring, thus marking an extraordinary change in the

maternal structure of the avian world.

Cassowaries are an endangered species, with less than

1,200 individuals left in the natural habitats on the

Australian mainland. The declining number of

Cassowaries can be attributed to reasons such as loss

and fragmentation of habitats, and natural disasters such

as Cyclone Larry (2006) and Cyclone Yasi in (2011). In

habitat areas such as Mission Beach and the Daintree car

strikes kill a concerning number of birds each year.

Cassowary chicks wil l stay with their father

for approximately 9 months learning how to

feed. Once the next breeding season starts

he wil l chase the chicks away.

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FISH

The pristine water resources of Cape York remain relatively

undisturbed by human activity, thus bestowing the

Peninsula with a conductive environment for fishes and

other aquatic species in general. Eighty-eight species of

fresh water fishes occur in this region, fifteen of which

spend a part of their life in ocean waters. Local water

resources of the Cape York region contain varied

assemblages of commercially valuable fish stocks. Stream

fish such as Fresh Water Mullet, Sooty Grunter and

Rainbow Fish are a few of the diverse fish groups found in

this Peninsula.

Recently Tilapia was confirmed as being a well-established

species in the Endeavour River. This introduced species is

of major concern due to its tendency to overrun the areas in

which it lives. There are only a few options available to

control these unwanted invaders. They include poisons

specific to fish as was used in a Port Douglas pond in 1989

where five fish were released and subsequently turned into

over one million fish (18t.) in three years. The downfall of

using poison is all fish, invertebrates and crustaceans in the

particular waterway will be destroyed.

Archer Fish

Archer Fish, also known as Spinner Fish, has a contour

that is compressed sideways. It is a streamlined predator

with a straight profile from dorsal fin to mouth. The

extended jaw is quite pre-dominant in its appearance. It has

silver spots and stripes on its body.

It is sexually monomorphic in nature, and is quite famous

for its hunting techniques. While able to survive in salt

water they tend to be found in the upper reaches of fresh

water rivers and permanent billabongs. The Archer Fish is

especially known for knocking down insects from hanging

foliage by shooting a forceful jet of water from its mouth

which is the origin of its common name.

When an Archer Fish selects its prey, it rotates its eye so

that the image of the prey falls on a particular portion of the

eye in the ventral temporal periphery of the retina and its

lips just break the surface, squirting a jet of water at its

victim. It does this using the narrow groove in the roof of its

mouth. It presses its tongue against this groove to form a

narrow channel, then contracts its gill covers to force a

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powerful jet of water through the channel. The resulting jet

of water can be up to 2.5m long, but their accuracy only

allows them to shoot insects 1.2m away depending on

body size. The fish can alter the power of the shot for prey

of different sizes. If the first shot does not knock the victim

into the water, the Archer Fish will keep trying. Archer

Fish are remarkably accurate in their shooting; adult fish

almost always hit the target on the first shot.

Barramundi

An iconic fish across the entire top end of Australia, the

Barramundi has a reputation as a pugnacious fighter

when hooked and a beautiful table fish when eaten.

When hooked, a Barramundi will often clear itself from the

water several times throughout the battle and make long

powerful runs. The record for the biggest line-caught

barramundi is 44.6kg at Lake Monduran, QLD (December

2010); others have been caught larger, but a growing

trend for catch and release fishing has sustained this

record. It is a quest for many Barramundi anglers to catch

a 100 pounder, which to date has never been achieved.

Barramundi is a loanword from the Aboriginal language of

the Rockhampton area in Queensland meaning ‘large-

scaled silver fish’. Originally, the name Barramundi

referred to Saratoga; however, the name was

appropriated for marketing reasons during the 1980s, a

decision which has aided in raising the profile of this fish

significantly. Broadly referred to as Asian Sea Bass by

the international scientific community, it is also known as

Giant Perch, Giant Sea Perch, Australian Sea Bass, and

by a variety of names in other languages.

Barramundi can live in both salt and fresh water

environments however they must have access to salt

water to breed. The species is

sequentially hermaphroditic, with most individuals

maturing as males and becoming female after at least

one spawning season; most of the larger specimens are

therefore female.

Large female Barramundi can produce 32

mil l ions eggs in one season and spawn on

the ful l moon.

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In Australia, Barramundi is an iconic table fish revered

across the whole country. It could be said that it is a

quintessential Australian brand. However, such is the

demand for the fish that a substantial amount of

Barramundi consumed in Australia is actually imported.

This has placed significant economic pressure on

Australian producers, both fishers and farmers, whose

costs are significantly greater due to the stringent

environmental and food safety standards placed on them

by government. While country of origin labelling has given

consumers greater certainty over the origins of their

barramundi at the retail level, there is no requirement for

the food service and restaurant trades to label the origins of

their Barramundi.

REPTILES

The origin of the reptiles lies about 320–310 million years

ago, in the steaming swamps of the late Carboniferous

period. This was a period of low sea levels and heavy

forestation. Terrestrial life was well established by the

Carboniferous period. Amphibians were the dominant land

vertebrates, of which one branch would eventually evolve

into reptiles, the first fully terrestrial vertebrates. Modern

reptiles inhabit every continent with the exception

of Antarctica.

Approximately 160 of the total 690 reptile species of

Australia are found in Cape York. It is quite challenging to

provide an accurate number, especially as new reptile

species such as smaller skinks are beings discovered quite

frequently.

Some of the reptiles that are synonymous with this

peninsula are:

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Saltwater Crocodile

The Saltwater Crocodile (Crocodylus porosus), is also

known as the Estuarine or Indo-Pacific Crocodile. It is

found in suitable habitats from Northern Australia through

Southeast Asia to the eastern coast of India. Commonly

referred to as ‘Salties’, they are the largest living reptile on

the planet and, in the early stages of development, are

considered as a fairly fast-growing species. While adult

males can grow to more than 6m (20ft.) in size, the

females tend be no more than 3 to 3.5m (10-12ft.).

Considered the apex hunter within their environment this

creature is extremely dangerous.

Typically, the Estuarine Crocodiles are incredibly tolerant

to saline conditions and hence inhabit swamps and

coastal estuaries; however, despite their name, it is not

very uncommon for Saltwater Crocodiles to dwell in

brackish waters, freshwater rivers and billabongs.

Extraordinary swimmers they can sometimes swim as far

as 900km (approximately 600mi.) in the quest of a

suitable territory to claim.

In late 2008, early 2009 a handful of wild Saltwater

Crocodiles were verified to be living within the mangrove

and creek systems of Fraser Island, hundreds of

kilometres from, and in much cooler water than, their

normal Queensland range. It was discovered that these

Crocodiles did indeed migrate south to the Island from

Northern Queensland during the warmer wet season and

presumably returned to the north upon the seasonal

temperature drop. Despite the surprise and shock within

the Fraser Island public, this is apparently not new

behaviour and in the distant past wild crocodiles had

been reported occasionally appearing as far south as

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Brisbane during the warmer wet season – a 3.5m Crocodile

has taken up residence in the Mary River near Fraser

Island.

The Saltwater Crocodile is an opportunistic predator

capable of taking nearly any animal that enters its territory,

either in the water or on dry land. They are known to attack

humans who enter the Crocodiles' territory. Silent hunters,

they patiently wait for the right opportunity to attack their

prey. They usually drag their target beneath the water

surface, so that the prey drowns before they can feast the

victim.

Female Estuarine Crocodiles lay approximately 50-60 eggs

in an area of muddy vegetation. Once the young ones

hatch, the female gently carries her progenies to the water;

only one percent of the offspring sustain the environment to

become adults. The Saltwater Crocodile is a protected

species and should not be harmed intentionally.

Freshwater Crocodile

The Freshwater Crocodile, or Johnston’s Crocodile

(Crocodylus johnsoni or Crocodylus johnstoni), popularly

known as ‘Freshies’, is relatively smaller than the Salties.

As the name suggests, the Freshwater Crocodile

extensively live in fresh water lakes and streams however

they can tolerate low level salt conditions for short periods.

Freshwater Crocodiles are endemic to Australia.

Unlike their larger saltwater relatives, Freshwater

Crocodiles are not known as man-eaters and rarely cause

fatalities although they will bite in self-defence if cornered.

Freshies can be easily distinguished from its saltwater

counterpart because of its light brown colour and bands on

the body and tail. The Freshwater Crocodile is a relatively

shy reptile that primarily feeds on fish.

More than one quarter of the eggs of Australian Freshwater

Crocodiles hatch well, but more than 90% of these

hatchlings do not survive for more than a year, hatchling

predators such as birds and Goannas being the primary

reason. In recent years the population of Freshwater

Crocodiles has dropped dramatically due to the ingestion of

the invasive Cane Toad. The toad is poisonous to

Freshwater Crocodiles, although not to Saltwater

Crocodiles, and the toad is rampant throughout the

Northern Australian wilderness.

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Black Headed Python

Black Headed Python habitat ranges from humid tropical

to semi-arid regions and this species can be found across

much of Northern Australia. Also known as the Shield

Snake (Gr. Aspidites ‘shield bearer’ melanocephalus

‘Black-headed’) it has two large armour cut scales on the

head which is defined from the rest of the body due to its

black colouring. It is this stunning colouring and its docile

nature that makes it a popular choice for collectors.

The typical length of a Black Headed Python may vary

from 1.5-2.5m. Black Headed Pythons are terrestrial and

are often found in amongst rocks and loose debris. If

disturbed, they will hiss loudly, but are unlikely to bite

unless hunting prey. They will sometimes strike with a

closed mouth, but generally can be handled easily. They

are strong swimmers, but are almost never found inside

water. They are non-venomous.

These snakes are mentioned in, or play a central role in,

the stories of the Indigenous Dreamtime traditions.

Amethystine Python

The Amethystine or Scrub Python is Australia’s largest

python. Specimens have reportedly been measured at

more than 8.5m (28ft.) in total length, but this is

exceptional, as 5m (16ft.) specimens are already

considered large. Morelia amethistina as it is properly

known is a non-venomous constrictor species of snake

that is also found in Indonesia and Papua New Guinea.

The name of this snake is derived from the beautiful blue

colour reflecting off the scales when seen in full sunlight.

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Spending most of their time high in the rainforest canopies

their diet generally consists of birds, fruit

bats, rats, possums, and other small animals however

larger specimens will catch and eat wallabies, waiting

by creek and river banks for prey seeking drinking water.

The body is relatively slim, unlike those of many other large

members of the Python family. With a habitat that ranges

from the coastal plains around Cairns, onto the Atherton

Tablelands and up to the tip of Cape York this is truly

magnificent species of snake.

AMPHIBIANS

These animals' ancestors were the first to venture out from

the water and adapt to life on land. Amphibian larvae are

often aquatic and go through a complex metamorphosis

process as they grow to adulthood. They have moist skin

and do not have scales, feathers or hair. Amphibians and

frogs in particular, make up a large proportion of the Cape

York vertebrate species. While unseen throughout the day

dusk bring the frogs out of hiding, particularly around the

creeks and waterholes. Cape York is also home to the

world’s largest frog.

White Lipped Green Tree Frog

The White Lipped Green Tree Frog is the world’s largest

tree frog; no wonder it is also known as the Giant Tree

Frog. The dorsal surface of the entire body, including parts

such as the head, limbs and the fingers are lime-green or

bronze in colour with mature adults being up to 110mm

(5.5in.) in body length not counting the length of the rear

legs. There is a white streak on the entire lower lip,

bestowing the species with its popular name. The lower

surface of the body is either light pink or white in colour.

The half-webbed fingers and fully webbed fingers help it to

climb well.

The White Lipped Tree Frog changes its colour at will and

can assume colours such as olive-green, olive-brown or

deep brown, especially at night.

In Australia, this species is confined to Cape York and

extended southern localities such as Ingham and

Townsville. It is also wide-spread in the New Guinea

region.

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The Male call of this species is distinguished as a double

note resembling that of a large barking dog. During the

breeding season females can lay up to 1,000 eggs in

clusters of 300-800 in aquatic habitats. Its development is

complete in less than 30 days however females do not

reproduce until 2 to 3 years of age.

MAMMALS

With over 30 species of bats and flying foxes, kangaroos

and agile wallabies, dingoes, quolls, bandicoots and

possums, mammals make up a wide range of the wildlife

of Cape York. Species such as the Bennett’s Tree

Kangaroo, Lumholtz Tree Kangaroo and Spotted

Couscous are not only rare but also endemic to the Cape

York Region.

Spotted Cuscus

It is an arboreal species that is native to Cape York

Peninsula, islands of Ambonia and New Guinea. It lives

in habitats such as rainforests, mangroves and eucalypt

forests. It is nearly the size of a huge cat.

Males are bestowed with a whitish coat that is adorned

with brown spots, and females are white or grey with no

spots; however, the quality, colour and texture might vary

with the age and sex of the creature.

It has a frizzy, prehensile tail which is furry on the top

side of the tail; the tail’s lower half is covered with rough

scales which allow it to clasp branches efficiently.

It is an extremely shy and timid creature that prefers to

hunt and eat at night, thus limiting its appearance during

the day. Like its distant relative, the Sloth, it is an animal

that uses minimal amounts of energy limiting the

requirements for survival. Nest sites can be found in tree

hollows, among rocks and underneath tree roots. The

presence of the creature can be assumed because of its

pungent odour. Males are likely to snarl, bark or make a

hissing noise if they suspect the presence of another

male or threat in their territory. They can be quite hostile

and aggressive if challenged.

Male Spotted Cuscus tends to mate year round with

multiple partners.

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The gestation period of this creature is less than two

weeks, thirteen days to be precise. It has a pouch period of

approximately six to seven months. It gives birth to up to

three offspring at a time. The average life span of this

species is eleven years.

Tree Kangaroo

Found in both New Guinea and Cape York the Tree

Kangaroo is the only macropod adapted to live in the

rainforest canopy. There are 14 species of Tree Kangaroo

with significant variations in sizes and colours. Sizes of

head and body length can vary from 41 to 77cm (16 to

30in.), a tail length of 40 to 87cms (16 to 34in.), and a

weight of up to 14.5kg (32lb.). Females are smaller than

males. Most Tree Kangaroos are considered

threatened due to hunting (New Guinea) and habitat loss.

Quite slow and clumsy on the ground, in the trees they are

an exceptionally agile animal, as they have specially

adapted pads on their feet that allow it to move and climb

swiftly. Wrapping the forelimbs around a tree or branch they

use their powerful back legs to propel themselves.

Branches can also be held firmly by their elongated tails. It

is their ability to negotiate their way through the trees that

makes the Tree Kangaroo exceptional. Downward jumps of

up to 9m from tree to tree are not unusual and they are able

to leap from the trees to the ground from heights of nearly

20m without injury.

It is a nocturnal animal that mostly feeds on leaves and

fruits. Generally they are solitary animals, but can

sometimes feed in groups as well. Its reproductive cycle is

similar to that of normal kangaroos, i.e. it gives birth to one

offspring and rears it in its pouch.

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Content Compiled & Written by:

Mark Essenhigh & Sangeeta Thomas

Format and Design by:

Jody Essenhigh

Photography by:

Jody and Mark Essenhigh

Previous guests – with thanks

Geoff Lillis, Sarah Bullen, Mr & Mrs Innes

Tony Frankland (Tour Guide)

Some photos have been sourced from the Net – again

with thanks

In Closing

I hope that the information contained has helped to give

you an idea of, not just the importance of the environment

of Cape York but, the beauty and diversity of this

incredible destination. The Cape is not just about the

scenery - the people that live here are an integral part of

what makes it so special. Indigenous communities, whom

while having the trappings of the modern world, still live

by cultural values that trace their beginnings to the dawn

of time. Graziers, who accept that with their tenure

comes a responsibility to care and maintain the land in its

natural state. And of course the visitors who venture into

this area with a sense of adventure and awe at

undertaking one of Australia’s last great journeys.

Regards, Mark