one of the worlds last great wilderness areas - cape york
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Information on the environment, history and culture of Cape YorkTRANSCRIPT
ONE OF THE WORLD’S LAST INTACT WILDERNESS AREAS
CAPE YORK
Cape York is renowned for i ts exceptional natural beauty and cultural values. With breathtaking scenic backdrops, extensive sandy beaches, revered Aboriginal legacy and splendid National Parks, i t is one tourist destination that no adventure lover would want to miss.
“A wilderness is hereby recognized as an area where the earth and community of l i fe are untrammelled by man, where man himself is a visitor who does not remain, in contrast with those areas where man and his own works dominate the landscape.”
The W ilderness Act of 1964 as wri t ten by Howard Zahni ser of The W ilderness Society
WELCOME Being a tour operator on Cape York came about completely
by chance. I was conducting tours on Fraser Island and
one of the other guides kept talking about this business that
he had for sale. I didn’t think much of it at the time, we
already had a business, but after some discussion we
purchased Off Road Adventure Safaris.
Cape York had always been on my wish-list as a
destination however, even with what I knew, the beauty of
the Cape took me by surprise. We have found that this
holds true for the people that have travelled the Cape with
us. It is a truly unique environment in so many ways and is
currently under consideration for listing as a World Heritage
Area.
It is a privilege to be able to return to the Cape each year
and to show it to people like you. I hope that you enjoy the
information that we have compiled in this book and that it
motivates you to include Cape York into your future travel
plans.
Mark & Jody Essenhigh
Off Road Adventure Safaris
INTRODUCTION TO CAPE YORK
The intrinsic beauty of Cape York is that it has remained
virtually untouched by humans. The original occupants
lived at one with the environment with no plans or need to
tame that environment. It provided for their needs and in
return they cared for the land.
With the arrival of explorers and settlers the Cape soon
made them aware that if they wished to remain they would
need to adopt similar principles. Many exploration parties
were thwarted in their attempts by their lack of
understanding of the natural environment. Imagine what it
would have been like to be standing in a massive expanse
of lush grassland as your horses, the lifeblood of the
expedition, died because the grasses were poisonous. The
area known as Heathlands, at the northern end of the
Cape, became known as the wet desert for exactly this
reason.
During the monsoonal season much of the Cape becomes
a massive flood plain as rivers and streams break their
banks and blend into each other, leaving isolated islands of
high ground on which the wildlife finds shelter. This is the
time of plenty, when the Cape is at its most magnificent.
Aquatic eggs, laid in the dwindling streams of the last dry,
hatch in their millions providing the basis for a food chain
that will support a plethora of predators. Birdlife, both in
species and numbers, become the dominant feature of
these massive wetlands as they are attracted by primal
urges to feed and breed. As the dry season begins and
the waters recede, the Cape displays an unexpected
array of lush greens, crystal clear creeks with stunning
waterfalls and vistas that would soften the hardest heart.
Wildlife abounds as the next generation take their first
tentative steps in a new world.
The Cape is considered to have the oldest living culture on
Earth. In many of the indigenous communities traditional
practises are still a part of daily life. The, over 1,200, rock
art sites in the Laura area are considered by UNESCO as
amongst the most important in the world and the
Queensland Government has applied Wild Rivers
Legislation to many areas. There is a growing momentum
to have the Cape declared a World Heritage Area. Big
mining has focused its sights on Cape York, the
ramifications of which could be catastrophic.
Covering an area larger than Great Britain and with a
population of less than twenty thousand people the Cape
remains one of the most isolated areas in the World. There
is only one road that will take you to the northern tip of
Australia and the journey is considered to be one of the last
frontiers. Even with the access provided by the upgrading
of the Peninsula Development Road this is not a challenge
to be treated light heartedly. The skeletal remains of
abandoned vehicles are a testament to the foolhardy who
ventured here unprepared.
Cape York - population 18 thousand - covers roughly the same surface area as Great Britain - population 59 mill ion.
THE NATURE OF CAPE YORK
With 137,000km² of tropical manors and 4,000km of
secluded coastline, Cape York stretches 1,000km to the
north of Cairns, Queensland. It has a population of
approximately 18,000 and the majority (70%) of its
population is Aborigines and Torres Strait Islanders. Cape
York is a large secluded peninsula and has an outstanding
diversity of remarkable landforms.
LANDFORMS
The varied sceneries and landscapes of this region extend
as trifling topographies across its vastness. Meandering
rivers, grasslands, striking dune fields and the vast
wetlands of Cape York are deliberated among the most
striking in the world.
Unscathed by any tectonic activity, most of Cape York is
marked by extremely desolate plains. At the same time,
some very low, picturesque hills can be observed on the
eastern side of this incredible peninsula.
The Peninsula Ridge, an integral part of Australia’s Great
Dividing Range, is undoubtedly the lifeblood of Cape York.
The foundation of this exceedingly impressive mountain
range consists of primitive Precambrian and Palaeozoic
rocks. The Peninsula Ridge rises to an elevation of
approximately 800m in the McIlwraith Range around Coen.
The Great Dividing Range finishes as an
island 10km from the coast of Papua New
Guinea.
CLIMATE
Cape York is bestowed with a warm tropical climate, i.e.
with wet summers and dry winters. It experiences heavy
monsoons between November to April, and a
comparatively drier season between May and October.
Average temperature in higher regions is 18°C and on
lowlands is 27°C. A typical summer day in Cape York has
a temperature of around 35°C, and a temperature above
40°C is quite rare. In the same way, temperature below
5°C is quite rare during the winters. April to October is the
best time to visit Cape York.
The Kimberly’s, Top End and Cape York share similar
climatic conditions; however, the latter differs from the first
two because of its relatively wetter climate.
The following winter rainfall figure illustrates this fact:
Source: Bureau of Meteorology, Australia
Cape York supplies almost 30% of the water
for the Great Artesian Basin.
The Cape York Peninsula experiences heavy rainfall during
the summers, with an average annual rainfall of 800mm in
the south and an abundant 2,400mm in the north.
The following summer rainfall map illustrates the same. It
shows average rainfall conditions during October to April,
which is the northern wet season in Cape York.
Source: Bureau of Meteorology, Australia
RIVER SYSTEMS & FLOOD PLAINS
The Cape York Peninsula is especially known for its
hydrological integrity. With unspoiled river catchments and
water flows, it is able to keep the essence of the tropical
water cycles intact here.
The Coral Sea and the Gulf of Carpentaria are divided by
the Peninsula Ridge, to the west of which lies a sequence
of mighty, meandering river systems such as the Archer,
Coleman, Ducie, Holroyd, Jardine, Mitchell, Watson and
Wenlock. All of these rivers bare themselves in the Gulf of
Carpentaria. Very little of these rivers is seen during the
arid winters as they are belittled to trivial pools and sandy
beds during this season.
To the east, shorter and swifter rivers such as the
Endeavour, Jeannie, Pascoe, Lockhart, Olive and Stewart
Rivers flow to join the Coral Sea. On their journey, these
untouched rivers are ruled with thick dense rainforests,
mangroves and sand dunes.
The valleys of the Laura basin are traversed by rivers such
as the Hann, Laura, Jack, Morehead, North Kennedy and
Norman Rivers.
FLORA & FAUNA
In terms of vegetation, biodiversity and natural integrity,
Cape York is highly distinguished from relatively drier
regions of Australia. This is primarily because of its
retention of rainforest species which are great examples of
the flora and fauna of the woodlands.
Plant Habitats and Diversity
Cape York features a widespread range of plant habitats
such as Heathlands, Gallery Forests, and Rainforests,
Eucalypt Woodlands, Melaleuca Woodlands, Freshwater
Wetland Communities, Littoral vegetation and Grasslands,
including more than 200 regional ecosystems. The
combination of all these significant habitats paves the way
for a multifaceted natural landscape that is unique to this
part of the Earth.
The majority of these plant habitats spread over the
complete Cape York Peninsula, making it an affluent
montage of habitats. In fact, such is the opulence of Cape
York in terms of plant diversity that in spite of occupying
only 3% of Australia, it encompasses 18.5% of its plant
diversity.
Cape York is especially prominent on the world map
because of the presence of many rare species and
restricted endemics. It is especially rich in life-forms such
as invertebrates, freshwater creatures, mangroves, sea
grass and orchids. Recent research has realised 4 species
of previously unknown freshwater crabs.
There are more than 264 plant species and 6 plant genera
that are exclusively prevalent in the Cape York Peninsula.
The flora of Cape York consists of the original Gondwanan
species that emerged during the breakup of Gondwanna -
and Indo-Malaya species through the Torres Strait. No
wonder that Cape York, especially its McIlwraith Range -
Iron Range regions, is identified as a nationally significant
area of endemic plants.
Fauna
With an incredible assortment of 40 endemic and 700
terrestrial vertebrate species, Cape York exhibits
unbelievable biodiversity. The fauna of this region is an
amazing mix of Gondwanan relics, New Guinean invaders
and Australian isolationists. Some very rare species - such
as the Buff-breasted Buttonquail, Lovely Fairywren, Pied
Oystercatcher, Eastern Brown Snake and Bramble Cay
Melomys - are found in this peninsula.
INDIGENOUS CULTURE
Cape York’s Indigenous people have occupied this region
for at least 50,000 years, making it the most ancient living
culture on Earth. Aborigines and Torres Strait Islanders
represent the majority of people in this region and it is
interesting to note that approximately 70% of Cape York’s
population is indigenous.
For visitors, getting immersed in the Indigenous culture of
Cape York can be an extremely rewarding experience.
Australia’s Indigenous people have lived in harmony with
the environment since times immemorial. In fact they have,
through the use of techniques such as mosaic burning,
adapted the environment to make it more human-centric,
and thus paving the way for a tradition that facilitates a
seamless transition between humanity and the physical environment.
Indigenous people use their surroundings and the available
resources for cultural as well as economic purposes, but in
an environment-friendly way.
Hunting and gathering was the primary occupation of the
Aborigines. A thorough and unique knowledge of the land
and surrounding resources made it easier for them to hunt
and gather seasonal food. The majority of the Aboriginal
tribes were mobile groups who changed their location with
season.
Cape York is home to the oldest continuing
culture on Earth.
PERPETUATION OF TRADITIONAL PRACTICES SUCH AS HUNTING
There is no doubt that the colonisation and subsequent
modernisation of Australia have brought radical changes in
the lifestyle of the Indigenous people. Conversely, it is also
true that, on Cape York in particular, the Aborigines and
the Torres Strait Islanders have successfully sustained
their cultural practices to a great extent. This is due, in
part, to the limited impact that the restricted settlement of
the Cape has had on the traditional communities. Many
indigenous people live in a no-mans land, caught between
the modern and traditional worlds. Conversely, a large
proportion of the Indigenous people of Cape York have
sustained their culture for so long by adapting to the
changes around them.
Some of the very common traditional practices of the
Indigenous people revolved around hunting, amassing and
consumption of marine resources. While preserving such
traditions, the indigenous people exercise caution to limit
hunting endangered animals such as dugongs and marine
turtles. Where as in the past the indigenous people made
use of customary weapons such as wooden spears and
outrigger canoes for hunting and fishing they now use
motor-powered boats, spear guns and fishing rods.
Indigenous people have a great affinity to their
surroundings and this aspect plays a huge role in the
sustenance of their rich culture and heritage.
The people of Seisia and Bamaga originated
from Saibai Island – located 8km south of
Papua New Guinea.
FIRST CONTACT WITH WHITE SEAFARERS IN THE WEIPA AREA
The first documented sighting of the west coast of Cape
York was by Willem Janszoon, captain of the trading ship
Duyfken, in the year 1606. It is also the first recorded
contact between Australian Aboriginals and whites, a story
that took its place in local indigenous folklore.
The first English seafarer to venture into this area was
Captain Matthew Flinders, R.N.; it was Flinders who named
Duyfken Point, to the north of Weipa. Flinders also
documented the finding of “some reddish cliffs” in the south
of the Bay at Pera Head, in the ship’s log.
Very soon after the arrival of the Europeans in Australia, the indigenous inhabitants were severely hit by a series of foreign diseases such as the common cold and small pox.
The indigenous populace lacked immunity against these
diseases, as a result of which more than half of the
Australian Aboriginal population was wiped out. The
misappropriation of their land and water resources by the
settlers further added misery to their problems. The
inhabitants of Cape York were, in general, spared from this
due to their relative isolation.
THE EMERGENCE OF THE MODERN AND TRADITIONAL ART GANGS AND STYLES
Art and carvings occupy a significant place in Aboriginal
culture. No wonder almost all indigenous communities
living on the Cape York Peninsula are known for creating
dynamic artworks that are appreciated all over the world.
The Lockhart River ‘Art Gang’, Aurukun, Hope Vale and
Kowanyama are a few of the communities that are popular
for their art works. Wei’num is another art and craft
initiative that has started to gain popularity. Wei’num was
started by five artists who belonged to the communities of
Napranum, Weipa and Mapoon.
Till recently, the Aboriginal artists were not very organised.
However, things have started to change for the better with
the landmark exhibition ‘Story Place’, which was organised
by the Queensland Art Gallery. The success of this
exhibition has encouraged the growth of the art centres
and an explosion of a new style of indigenous art that
blends tradition and the modern world.
THE LAURA REGION
Quinkan Country
The area is noteworthy for its Aboriginal rock art, initially
painted by the Ang-Gnarra people as much as 40,000
years ago. The associated petro glyphs (rock etchings)
only became known to white Australians when an amateur
archaeologist discovered them in the late 1950s.
UNESCO has identified the sites of this region as one of
the ten most important primitive art sites in the world.
While there are over 1,200 recognised art sites within the
Laura Region only a small number are accessible to the
public. Many of the sites are ceremonial and can only be
attended in the company of an initiated person; these
paintings reveal some of the Ang-Gnarra's most sacred and
secret ceremonies.
One such site was used for manhood ceremonies. Spirit
figures are used to depict expectations; a grotesque
monster, a female figure, and a man with a missing tooth.
An adolescent Aboriginal boy had to endure elaborate
circumcision rites, living in silent isolation until his scar was
healed. Then, an older woman would teach him about
sexual relations. The monster illustrated what he would
become if he violated tribal taboos.
As his initiation process continued, he had a front tooth
knocked out. The Ang-Gnarra believed in life after death,
and that spirits rise up to a heaven called Woolunda, where
they encounter Big Uncle, the gatekeeper. He tells them a
joke, and when they laugh he can see their teeth. If one is
missing, then they are allowed to enter Woolunda.
Big Uncle is depicted as tall and thin, coloured in red with
white outlines. His eyes bulge white, and his long arms and
fingers are outstretched. Big Uncle is not really his name,
but his true name is so sacred it may never be spoken out
loud.
The most notable depictions in the paintings are Quinkans.
There are the Timaras also known as the ‘Tall People’ (kind
spirits) and the Injims (bad spirits).
The malevolent Injims come out of their hiding places,
cracks in the rocks, and sneak around at night. They love to
create mischief and mayhem and they use purri-purri black
magic to catch humans so they can devour their body fat.
The Timaras put everything back to how it should be.
Archaeologists digging at one of the rock art sites were
confused when they found several quartz crystals, which
are not native to the area. An Ang-Gnarra elder explained
the mystery. He said they were for protection against
Quinkans. The crystals would be placed in a campsite
where people were sleeping around a fire. Any Quinkan
trying to sneak up on them would see flashes of firelight
reflecting in the crystal facets and be driven back into the
shadows. Even today the local people get nervous if asked
to talk about Quinkans after dark.
Cape York is our homeland,
the birth place of our fore-fathers.
The spir i ts of our fore-fathers l ive here in these
serene rocks and sandstone cl i f fs.
The art that you admire on the rocks was created
by our ancestors.
The good and the bad Quinkans are
active at the night.
The art of the past connects us to our present.
Cape York is our motherland and our ancestors
belonged to this place.
You have to get acquainted with our roots to
appreciate the Aboriginal way.
This land is al l we need as i t gives us everything –
food, home, t radi t ion, art , law and cul ture.
These aspects are integral part of our being and
dreams, we l ive that way.
The land, the ar t, the law, the cul ture, the heri tage,
al l these aspects work together here, making our
l ives content .
A u t h or U n kn ow n ( Q u i n kan A r e a)
The Laura Dance Festival
Any writing on the art and culture of the indigenous people
of Cape York is incomplete without the mention of the
Laura Dance Festival. It is a biennial festival that exhibits
the rich culture of the Aborigines and Torres Strait
Islanders through dance and ceremonies.
The Dance and Cultural Festival of the Laura region is a
magnificent celebration of the Aboriginal culture.
Aboriginal communities from the Palm Island, Mornington
Island, Cairns, Djarragun College, Hope Vale, Cooktown,
Coen, Injinoo and several other towns and villages, come
together to participate in this celebration of culture. It would
not be an exaggeration to say that this grand festival is a
treat for the eyes and senses of all visitors and tourists.
Visitation at the 2011 festival was in excess of 5,000
people.
THE EXPLORERS, SETTLERS AND ADVENTURERS
While many claim that a Chinese maritime convoy, led by
Admiral Zheng made landfall on Cape York in the early
fifteenth century, the first universally acknowledged and
documented European sighting of the Cape York was by
the Dutch sailor, Willem Janszoon, in the year 1606.
Janszoon, a Dutch East India Company employee, was
ordered by his employer to explore the New Guinea coast
in the quest of lucrative economic prospects. Sailing from
Bantem, Java, in the Dufkyen, Janszoon was able to
document the first landing of Europeans in the Cape York
Peninsula in 1606. This expedition made him the first
European to have set foot on Australian soil pre-dating Dirk
Hartog’s discovery of the west coast by some 15 years.
Janszoon further charted towards Cape Keerweer, to the
south, where he and his comrades had to face hostility from
the local aborigines. Retracing his route to reach Banda he
missed an opportunity to discover the Torres Strait.
The information supplied by Willem Janszoon stirred Dutch
interest in the ‘south land’, especially as they expected to
find precious commodities there. Moreover, the Dutch, at
that point in time, also were looking for lucrative
opportunities to trade with indigenous people. It did not
surprise many when the then Governor-General of the
Dutch East Indies, Pieter de Carpentier, sent two ships –
the Pera and the Arnhem – on a journey of exploration
under the authority of Jan Carstenszoon, in the year 1623.
Both the ships succeeded in landing on the islands of
Taminbar, Kal and Aru, as they sailed towards the south-
west coast of New Guinea and on to the coast of Cape
York. However, Carstenszoon, like Willem Janszoon, was
not to find the Torres Strait. Moreover, he was of the
opinion that New Guinea was a part of the southland and
was not an island. While in the area Carstenszoon named
the Gulf of Carpentaria, in honour of the Governor General.
Arnhem Land is named for one of the ships used in his
expedition.
At the t ime of European contact, the region
consisted of 43 tribal nations, each with its
own language and tradit ional practices.
JAMES COOK
It was not until 1770 and Lieutenant James Cook’s
‘Voyage of Discovery’ that this area would once again be
visited by Europeans. The Dutch stories of a ‘great south
land’ had created interest amongst the English heralding
the appointment of Cook to lead an expedition to claim
new lands for the Empire. Following previously travelled
routes, Cook made land on the southern section of
Australia’s east coast.
While travelling north through the uncharted Great Barrier
Reef his ship, the Endeavour, was damaged on a reef and
was in danger of sinking. The ship was beached in what
we now know as the Endeavour River and the current site
of Cooktown. During the six weeks that it took to make
repairs there were numerous contacts with the local
Gungarde and Guugu Yimithirr people. Most of these
interactions were quite amicable until the whites broke a
taboo regarding the eating of sea turtles.
During the time ashore many words of the local language
were recorded including Gangurru, their name for the
animal that we know as the Kangaroo.
Having completed repairs, the Endeavour was re-launched
and the journey north continued. Rounding the tip Cook
landed on what we now know as Possession Island where
the flag was raised to claim the entire east coast of the
country. He also named Cape York for the Duke of York, a
patron of the expedition. This also led to the discovery of
the Torres Strait and the naming of many of the islands in
the local area.
EDMUND KENNEDY
Edmund Kennedy was the first European to instigate an
overland expedition to Cape York.
When Thomas Livingstone Mitchell discovered the Barcoo
River, Edmund Kennedy was his deputy. They left Buree in
New South Wales in November 1845, to find an overland
route to the Gulf of Carpentaria. The expedition was
unsuccessful, and returned to Sydney in January 1846.
Edmund Kennedy started his expedition to Cape York from
Rockingham Bay (near the present town of Cardwell) in
May 1848, and it would not be an exaggeration to say that
his voyage was not only one of the most ambitious, but it
was also one of the most tragic and ill-fated of all
expeditions in the Australian history, especially as only
three out of the thirteen men survived.
Once landed, the party encountered terrible terrain such as
mangrove swamps, mountains, lagoons, rivers, and thick
rainforest that made it almost impossible to travel. After two
months, they had only travelled about 20mi. into the interior.
The expedition separated into two groups. One group
stayed behind, and the other group went north to meet the
supply ship. In the area of Cape Weymouth one man
accidentally shot himself and could not continue, so two
men were left to help him. Kennedy and a young aboriginal
man in the expedition, Jackey Jackey, went on to try to find
the ship. Kennedy was killed by aborigines at Escape River
near Cape York. He was 20mi. from his goal. Jackey
Jackey made it to the supply ship alone on 23 December
1848.
In 2008, one hundred and sixty years after the original
expedition, descendants of Edmund Kennedy’s team set
out on a journey into Cape York to retrace the footsteps of
their ancestors. Tim Daniel, the leader of this expedition,
and the group followed the exact route of Kennedy’s
original expedition with the help of historical maps, charts
and journals.
The story of the fateful Edmund Kennedy expedition as
well as the associated retrace journey is an incredible
testimony to the Australian spirit, determination and
resilience, and has deservingly been captured by reputable
Australian filmmakers Chris and Rosie Browning.
THE JARDINE FAMILY
One of the greatest but least celebrated achievements in
Australian pioneering was the ambitious attempt to
establish a settlement on Cape York in 1863. Described as
the ‘Singapore of the Pacific’ it was envisaged that this
would become a major trading point and add protection to
the area from foreign settlement.
This earliest of European settlements on the Cape York
Peninsula was suggested by Sir George Bowen, the first
Governor of Queensland. The Western shore of the island
of Pabaju (Albany Island) was the selected site, and it was
later decided that the settlement should be established on
the opposite side of the island. Sir George Bowen
appointed John Jardine who, accompanied by his wife
Elizabeth, was appointed Police Magistrate and charged
with the responsibility to oversee the establishment of the
outpost.
At the same time John’s eldest sons, Frank and Alexander
set out from Rockhampton to overland stock to support the
settlement. Accompanied by four Europeans and four
Aboriginals they left Rockhampton in May 1864 with 42
horses and 250 cattle. On the ten month trek of 1,200mi.
(1,931km) they were constantly harassed by Aboriginals,
forced their way through jungles, scrub and swamps and
crossed at least six large rivers. At the Mitchell River they
withstood a major Aboriginal attack.
Clad in tatters, wearing hats of emu skin and living on
turkey eggs, they reached Somerset in March 1865 with
12 horses and 50 cattle.
Both brothers were elected fellows of the Royal
Geographical Society and received the Murchison grant.
Their arrival in Somerset was the stepping stone for the
Jardine legend on Cape York.
In 1866 Frank settled on a station at Lockerbie, near
Somerset. When his parents returned to Rockhampton in
1868 he was appointed police magistrate. On 10 October
1873, at Somerset, Jardine married the seventeen-year-old
Sana Solia, niece of the King of Samoa; they had four
children.
In 1884-86 he was in charge of transport for the
construction of the Cape York Telegraph Line and in 1890
was prominent in searching for survivors from the wreck of
the steamer Quetta.
After the Government station was moved to Thursday
Island in 1877, Jardine’s home at Somerset was the centre
of civilisation on Cape York. Elaborate dinners for visiting
dignitaries were served on silver plates made from Spanish
dollars found by Jardine on a reef in 1890.
He died of leprosy on 18 March 1919 and was buried near
the beach at Somerset. He was survived by his wife, two
sons and two daughters.
The Jardines contributed significantly to the geographic
knowledge of the Cape York Peninsula. In fact, it would not
be an exaggeration to say that their contribution was the
greatest; the only exception could have been Kennedy’s
notes, if they had been preserved.
ROBERT LOGAN JACK
Robert Logan Jack, originally from Scotland, was appointed
Geologist for Northern Queensland in March 1876. He
arrived in the colony in April 1877, and soon afterwards was
made geologist for the whole colony, succeeding Richard
Daintree. An early piece of work was an examination of the
coal resources of the Cooktown district, and in August 1879
he began an exploring expedition to the most northerly part
of Queensland in the hope that payable goldfields might be
found.
A second expedition was made towards the end of the
year, and though no field of any great value was
discovered, much was added to the knowledge of the
country. The party endured many hardships and Jack
himself was speared through the shoulder by
hostile aborigines.
He reported on many gold, tin, silver and sapphire areas,
and his early work led to the search for artesian water and
the construction of the first government bore in the Great
Artesian Basin. As part of his expeditions he mapped the
coal sites in Bowen, Flinders River and Townsville.
He was also a prolific author on the geology, mineralogy
and palaeontology of Queensland.
WILLIAM HANN
William Hann, the principal squatter of Maryvale Station on
the Burdekin, explored the last remaining uncharted
regions in Eastern Australia which were in close proximity
to the base of the Cape York Peninsula.
In 1872 William was given charge of a well-organised
official party to explore the interior of the Cape York
Peninsula. The country was difficult and Hann was often
irked by assistants whose bushcraft was less competent
than his. Dense scrub prevented him from reaching his
goal on the Endeavour River but the party located some
fair pastoral country and discovered and named the Tate,
Daintree and Palmer Rivers.
Hann greatly underestimated the potential of the alluvial
gold he found in the Palmer River which eventually was
developed into one of Australia’s richest gold fields.
He further proceeded northwards to ascend the highlands
and to sight the Pacific Ocean at Princess Charlotte Bay.
On his backward journey, he discovered the Normanby
River.
Ironically Hann, who had come close to bankruptcy as a
sheep farmer had a ready market for his cattle amongst
the 30,000+ that flocked to the Palmer making him one of
the area’s most prosperous citizens.
He died suddenly while swimming near Townville on 5
April 1889, survived by his wife and two daughters. A
daring horseman and whip and a first-class bushman,
Hann was notable among the first general of North
Queenslanders.
JAMES VENTURE MULLIGAN
Apart from the expedition of Edmund Kennedy and the occasional coastal contact of a few other explorers, the Cape remained largely untouched until the expeditions of James Venture Mulligan.
James Venture Mulligan is a man whose deeds are not
known to many. Yet he was probably North Queensland’s
greatest explorer and prospector - a man who did more
than anyone else to open up the vast mineral areas of
Cape York Peninsula and the hinterland of Cairns.
Ironically he moved to Queensland after being omitted from
the ill fated Burke and Wills expedition through Central
Australia.
Setting out from Georgetown in June 1873 Mulligan and his
party initially followed the route taken by Hann in an earlier
expedition. After three months of prospecting the Palmer
River they returned to Georgetown that September with
102oz. of high quality alluvial gold. The Palmer area was
soon overrun by more than 30,000 prospectors. This was
probably Mulligan’s greatest triumph. It was a discovery
that had far-reaching effects on the whole of Queensland; it
led to the founding of Cooktown in October 1873 and the
opening up of the whole of the Colony north of Cardwell
and Georgetown which were then the most northerly
outposts. He made six journeys through the predominantly
unexplored southern regions of Cape York from 1872 and
1876.
In his older years Mulligan purchased the hotel at Mt
Molloy. This was to bring his life to an unfortunate end
when he tried to protect a woman from a drunkard and was
fatally injured in the melee.
FRANCIS BIRTLES
The challenge of crossing the treacherous landscape of
the peninsula continued. In 1918, Francis Birtles, the
‘Adventurous Overlander’, rode a bicycle to the tip of the
Cape through 960km of rough mountains and jungle
scrubs.
You would think an adventure like this would be well
documented however very little can be found about this
particular journey. The main reason probably being that in
comparison to other adventures undertaken by Birtles,
riding a pushbike to Cape York was like a Sunday ride.
By 1912 he had cycled around Australia twice and had
crossed the continent seven times.
In 1912 Birtles completed the first west-to-east crossing of
the continent with Syd Ferguson and his terrier, Rex, in a
single-cylinder Brush car. In 1914, with Frank Hurley as
cameraman, he made 'Into Australia's Unknown' and in
1915 he retraced their route and was responsible for the
film 'Across Australia in the Track of Burke and Wills’ and
in 1919 he made 'Through Australian Wilds', following (by
car) the track of Sir Ross Smith. In 1926 he set motoring
speed records from Melbourne to Darwin and Darwin to
Sydney (7 days) in a Bean car named 'The Sundowner'.
By mid 1927 he had completed more than seventy
transcontinental crossings. Added to these he was the
first to drive a car from London to Melbourne in 1927, a
feat that would not be repeated until 1955.
Birtles took advantage of, and was a product of, that era
when adventure and minor fame could be found in
accomplishing ever quicker and more daring journeys by
bicycle and motor car.
THE BABY
The first car to be driven to the tip of Cape York was an
Austin 7 affectionately known as a ‘Baby Austin’. This
journey was one of many undertaken by adventurers
Hector McQuarrie and Dick Matthews, both from New
Zealand.
The year was 1928 and the Austin 7 had made a name for
itself as ‘the big car in miniature’. Affordable and reliable
were the words synonymous with the baby Austin and
when production finished in 1939, almost 250,000 cars had
been produced.
Commencing their journey from Sydney, McQuarrie and
Matthews had numerous adventures on the way north
which allowed them to assess what the car was capable of.
By the time they reached the southern section of Cape York
they had travelled through difficult terrain however they
were about to travel into an area that had rudimentary
roads at best. Add to this the numerous rivers, marshlands,
mountains and floodplains that had to be traversed and this
became an epic journey for its time. Fuel and supplies
were an issue and at one stage they had to detour to Weipa
to replenish their needs. At that time Weipa was nothing
more than a barge landing where cattle were shipped off to
market.
Upon reaching Heathlands, they enlisted the help of two
aboriginal boys to act as their guides to get them as far as
the Jardine River. At each of the river crossings they would
construct a raft of logs and float the car across. This
involved them swimming the raft with the ever present risk
of crocodiles to contend with.
Having reached the tip of Cape York the car was
transported by barge to Thursday Island where it was
purchased by Mrs Vidgen, daughter of Frank Jardine.
Upon the return to Sydney of McQuarrie and Matthews the
agent who originally sold them the car set about buying it
back to put on display at the dealership, a clever marketing
move that saw sales of this car increase dramatically.
McQuarrie and Matthews went on to do a tour of the world
and their precious Baby was presented to them as a gift by
the agent. While in transit to America aboard the ship
Tahiti disaster struck and the ‘Baby’ went to rest on the
bottom of the ocean. McQuarrie and Matthews continued
with their adventure and upon arrival in America bought a
replacement vehicle - a Baby Austin.
THE OVERLAND TELEGRAPH LINE
After James Mulligan discovered gold on the Palmer River
in 1873, a widespread need for effective, efficient and
swift communication to connect Cape York to the rest of
the world was felt by many. The telegraph lines ran along
the settlements of the miners and the pastoralists.
Junction Creek, located near Mt Surprise, was connected
to Normanton and Cardwell in 1872.
In 1876 there was a surge in the construction of telegraph
lines that connected Cooktown, Laura, Palmerville,
Junction Creek, Maytown and therefore Brisbane. At that
point in time, Cooktown was the second largest settlement
in Queensland.
This motivated the Government of Queensland to instruct
John Bradford to construct an electric telegraph line
extending the length of Cape York and to Thursday Island.
Since Bradford was experienced as the Lines and Mail
Route Services Inspector, the surveying and construction
of the telegraph line, though challenging, was a fairly
routine task for him.
It is important to mention here that while the rest of
Australia was quite privileged in terms of telephony traffic
at that point of time, Cape York was left behind
considerably; it was only in the late nineteen eighties that
Cape York was facilitated to communicate with the rest of
the world through dial telephones.
Originally bui l t in the 1880’s the l ine was
operational unti l 1987.
In 1884, Bradford succeeded in linking Fairview and Coen,
on the southern cape, through the first section of the line. In
the next phase, the northern section of the telegraph line,
which surrounded the Jardine River catchment, was
completed. In this phase, a chain of telegraph stations were
constructed along the line. All the telegraph stations were
designed like fortresses; the motive behind the design was
to protect the station workers against the hostility of the
local Aborigines.
The Musgrave Repeater Station was inaugurated on the 23
December 1886, which was closely followed by the Coen
station. Repeater stations had massive banks of batteries
and a generator to boost the strength of the signal through
the wires.
The Cape York Peninsula telegraph line was operational in
1886; the 90km between Mein and Moreton being an
exception as the telegrams and mail in this area were
carried by horses until the construction of the line was
accomplished. The Mein station was opened in July 1887,
and the McDonnell and Patterson stations were opened in
August, 1887. At the same time, the underwater cable link
to Thursday Island was also finished, thus facilitating easy
communication to Brisbane through Morse code.
The Cape York Telegraph line was officially opened in 1887, thus enabling the residents of Cape York to overcome their seclusion, through feasible connection with the rest of the world.
For more than a decade, the telegraph line had to face
quite a few challenges from the local Aborigines who used
the wire and insulators from the telegraph line to craft fish
hooks, spears and similar equipment. This was eventually
overcome by leaving extra wire and insulators at regular
intervals along the line.
The construction of the telegraph line was no doubt a
herculean task; however, its maintenance was no walk in
the park either. In fact, it was extremely difficult to maintain
the line, with two or three people employed at each
telegraph station for more than sixty years. For much of the
time that it was in operation the staff carried out inspections
and maintenance of the line on horseback.
The telegraph line experienced a major overhaul during
World War II where it was upgraded from a single line
to a four line capability. Due to the importance of
communication during the war the upgrade was
completed in less than six months by a joint workforce
from made up of Australian and American servicemen.
In 1914, the telegraph network was supplemented in
Cooktown and Thursday Island via shoreline radio
stations. There were a number of upgrades in 1967,
during which a telegraph line was built to link to Weipa.
The telegraph line remained active for almost a century
until 1987, after which it was dismantled. Microwave
towers are today a common sight in Cape York, equipping
the residents and settlements with efficient STD services.
Nowadays, the Old Telegraph Track, as it is affectionately
known, is accessible only during the dry season. It is
primarily an unmaintained road that passes through some
incredibly beautiful sceneries, surreal river crossings and
treacherous patches of deep sand. One can find bush
camps at the majority of the creek crossings. The
Telegraph Track is an integral part of the journey of
innumerous travellers who want to get a real feel of the
adventure, folklore and exquisite sceneries offered by
Cape York.
The l ine needed constant maintenance as the Aboriginal people would remove the wire and ceramic isolators to make fish hooks and knives.
CAPE YORK WILDLIFE
The Cape York Peninsula is undoubtedly a wilderness
area of astounding contrasts. The incredibly varied fauna
of Cape York is bound to surprise and delight any visitor.
With over 500 species of terrestrial vertebrates, Cape
York is a nature lovers dream come true. The terrestrial
vertebrates are comprised of frogs, reptiles, birds and
mammals. The remarkably varied fauna is a direct
consequence of the broad range of habitats and the
prevalence of pre-Holocene species from Asia and Papua
New Guinea.
Cape York has over 40 endemic vertebrate
species.
While a majority of the wildlife in Cape York is the same as
the fauna in other parts of Australia, Cape York is also
blessed with some species that are exclusively found in this
area and New Guinea. Tree Kangaroos, The Spotted
Couscous and Palm Cockatoos are as synonymous with
Cape York as the Dingo is to Fraser Island.
BIRD SPECIES
Diverse habitats such as eucalypt woodland, beaches, vine
forests, riparian rainforests, thickets, mangroves, swamps,
melaleuca woodland, sedgeland and saltpans are
conducive to the propagation and survival of bird species in
Cape York. One can find over 260 bird species in Cape
York. Some of the specialties of this peninsula are Palm
Cockatoo, Trumpet Manucode, Yellow-billed Kingfisher,
White-streaked Honeyeater and the Magnificent Riflebird.
During the rainy season, breeding Red-bellied Pittas are
also very commonly sighted. Palm Cockatoo and Golden
Shouldered Parrot are two of the most appealing bird
species of this region. Cape York and in particular the
lowland rainforests of the Iron Range region are home to
the northern most populations of Cassowaries in Australia.
Palm Cockatoo
The Palm Cockatoo is an intelligent bird species that is
found exclusively on the Cape York Peninsula and the New
Guinea region. It is by far the largest and smartest of all
cockatoos in Australia. Palm Cockatoos are especially
known for their complicated social system.
During the mating season a male Palm Cockatoo will stand
perched near the opening of a nest hole; stretching its
wings, and then gradually raising its crest and blushing. He
moves his facial feathers to deliberately reveal the beautiful
red patches on his cheek. And as if that was not enough to
impress his female counterpart, he begins to stamp his feet
hard and starts drumming a specially selected stick that is
held in his foot or beak to make a loud noise, thus securing
the name the drummer for himself. The female cockatoo
reciprocates interest by revealing the reddish patches on
her cheeks; conversely, she keeps her cheeks covered if
she is not interested.
The Palm Cockatoo is only found on Cape
York in Austral ia.
The entire process is complemented by the male
cockatoo’s outstretched wings and whistles. The
drumming sound produced suggests the quality of the
nest hole that is made available to the female. The sound
is also intended to exhibit ownership to neighbours and
potential usurpers.
It is interesting to note that the Palm Cockatoos in other
geographical regions such as New Guinea do not exhibit
this trait of percussions, perhaps because of the less
fierce competition and thick forests that do not facilitate
sound to travel beyond a few yards. This use of the stick
by the Palm Cockatoo is the only recorded use, in the
avian world, of a purposeful tool. Researchers have
observed individual males make a number of drum sticks
before finding one that gives the required note. After
being accepted by a female the stick is shredded and
added to the nest material.
Palm Cockatoos do not limit their visit to one particular
nest hole; in fact, they stay and retain a number of nest
holes in their terrain. Preferring heavy cover, they typically
choose woodland eucalypts or rain forest trees. A very
interesting feature of this bird is that it changes the colour
of its unique red cheek patch during distress and
excitement. The Palm Cockatoo has a very poor breeding
success rate, lower than any other species of parrot,
especially as they lay only one egg every second year.
Golden Shouldered Parrot
The Golden Shouldered Parrot is a small, intensely
coloured, seed-eating, parrot that lives in termite mounds
in the Cape York Peninsula. While this species could be
earlier spotted in Cape York areas such as Croydon, Chillagoe, Laura, Coen and Weipa, its occurrence is now limited to the headwaters of the Morehead River catchment and Staaten River National Park. It can also be found in
protected areas such as Artemis Antbed Nature Refuge,
McIlwraith Range National Park, Holroyd Nature Refuge,
Mungkan Kandju National Park and Lakefield National
Park.
The male Golden Shouldered Parrot is turquoise coloured
with a dark crown, perfectly complemented by the bright
yellow on the wings and forehead, and a salmon-pink on
the belly. Females and immature birds of this species are
found in shades of green with a turquoise rear-end.
If the official numbers are accurate, there are less than
2,000 Golden Shouldered Parrots living in the wild today.
Predation by Butcher Birds, congealing vegetation,
shortage of food and nest sites, incongruous fire regimes
and overgrazing cattle are some of the primary reasons
behind the current endangerment, region restrictions and
declining numbers.
This parrot prefers to nest in termite mounds on hilly grassy
woodlands and grasslands where the temperature seldom
falls below 10°C. During the dry season, this bird spends
most of the time on sand ridges in eucalypt woodlands. At
the commencement of the rainy season, they migrate to
gravelly slopes, rock-strewn hills and gleaming grass flats,
where they can easily find fallen seeds. They spend the
entire wet season in the hills; however, they also stopover
at the storm burnt areas in the lowlands quite often.
Cassowary
Cassowaries are outstandingly stunning birds. They have
a unique beauty with their dark lustrous feathers, striking
blue neck, large eyes and eyelashes and a magnificent
casque (bone like structure) on the head. They are birds
of imposing profile, with the average female growing up to
2m in height and 80kg in weight. The Southern
Cassowary, the species found in Australia, is the third
tallest and second heaviest living bird, smaller only than
the Ostrich and Emu. Cassowaries feed mainly on fruit,
although all species are truly omnivorous and will take a
range of other plant food including shoots, grass seeds,
and fungi in addition to invertebrates and small
vertebrates. Cassowaries are very shy, but when
disturbed, they are capable of inflicting serious injuries.
In his book ‘Living Birds of the World’ from 1958,
ornithologist Thomas E. Gilliard wrote:
"The inner or second of the three toes is fitted with a long,
straight, murderous nail which can sever an arm or
eviscerate an abdomen with ease. There are many
records of natives being killed by this bird."
Cassowaries can run at up to 50km/h (31mph.) through
the dense forest. They can jump up to 1.5m (4.9ft.) and
they are good swimmers, crossing wide rivers and
swimming in the sea as well.
This species also attracts attention for the fact that the
male Cassowaries incubate the eggs and raise the
offspring, thus marking an extraordinary change in the
maternal structure of the avian world.
Cassowaries are an endangered species, with less than
1,200 individuals left in the natural habitats on the
Australian mainland. The declining number of
Cassowaries can be attributed to reasons such as loss
and fragmentation of habitats, and natural disasters such
as Cyclone Larry (2006) and Cyclone Yasi in (2011). In
habitat areas such as Mission Beach and the Daintree car
strikes kill a concerning number of birds each year.
Cassowary chicks wil l stay with their father
for approximately 9 months learning how to
feed. Once the next breeding season starts
he wil l chase the chicks away.
FISH
The pristine water resources of Cape York remain relatively
undisturbed by human activity, thus bestowing the
Peninsula with a conductive environment for fishes and
other aquatic species in general. Eighty-eight species of
fresh water fishes occur in this region, fifteen of which
spend a part of their life in ocean waters. Local water
resources of the Cape York region contain varied
assemblages of commercially valuable fish stocks. Stream
fish such as Fresh Water Mullet, Sooty Grunter and
Rainbow Fish are a few of the diverse fish groups found in
this Peninsula.
Recently Tilapia was confirmed as being a well-established
species in the Endeavour River. This introduced species is
of major concern due to its tendency to overrun the areas in
which it lives. There are only a few options available to
control these unwanted invaders. They include poisons
specific to fish as was used in a Port Douglas pond in 1989
where five fish were released and subsequently turned into
over one million fish (18t.) in three years. The downfall of
using poison is all fish, invertebrates and crustaceans in the
particular waterway will be destroyed.
Archer Fish
Archer Fish, also known as Spinner Fish, has a contour
that is compressed sideways. It is a streamlined predator
with a straight profile from dorsal fin to mouth. The
extended jaw is quite pre-dominant in its appearance. It has
silver spots and stripes on its body.
It is sexually monomorphic in nature, and is quite famous
for its hunting techniques. While able to survive in salt
water they tend to be found in the upper reaches of fresh
water rivers and permanent billabongs. The Archer Fish is
especially known for knocking down insects from hanging
foliage by shooting a forceful jet of water from its mouth
which is the origin of its common name.
When an Archer Fish selects its prey, it rotates its eye so
that the image of the prey falls on a particular portion of the
eye in the ventral temporal periphery of the retina and its
lips just break the surface, squirting a jet of water at its
victim. It does this using the narrow groove in the roof of its
mouth. It presses its tongue against this groove to form a
narrow channel, then contracts its gill covers to force a
powerful jet of water through the channel. The resulting jet
of water can be up to 2.5m long, but their accuracy only
allows them to shoot insects 1.2m away depending on
body size. The fish can alter the power of the shot for prey
of different sizes. If the first shot does not knock the victim
into the water, the Archer Fish will keep trying. Archer
Fish are remarkably accurate in their shooting; adult fish
almost always hit the target on the first shot.
Barramundi
An iconic fish across the entire top end of Australia, the
Barramundi has a reputation as a pugnacious fighter
when hooked and a beautiful table fish when eaten.
When hooked, a Barramundi will often clear itself from the
water several times throughout the battle and make long
powerful runs. The record for the biggest line-caught
barramundi is 44.6kg at Lake Monduran, QLD (December
2010); others have been caught larger, but a growing
trend for catch and release fishing has sustained this
record. It is a quest for many Barramundi anglers to catch
a 100 pounder, which to date has never been achieved.
Barramundi is a loanword from the Aboriginal language of
the Rockhampton area in Queensland meaning ‘large-
scaled silver fish’. Originally, the name Barramundi
referred to Saratoga; however, the name was
appropriated for marketing reasons during the 1980s, a
decision which has aided in raising the profile of this fish
significantly. Broadly referred to as Asian Sea Bass by
the international scientific community, it is also known as
Giant Perch, Giant Sea Perch, Australian Sea Bass, and
by a variety of names in other languages.
Barramundi can live in both salt and fresh water
environments however they must have access to salt
water to breed. The species is
sequentially hermaphroditic, with most individuals
maturing as males and becoming female after at least
one spawning season; most of the larger specimens are
therefore female.
Large female Barramundi can produce 32
mil l ions eggs in one season and spawn on
the ful l moon.
In Australia, Barramundi is an iconic table fish revered
across the whole country. It could be said that it is a
quintessential Australian brand. However, such is the
demand for the fish that a substantial amount of
Barramundi consumed in Australia is actually imported.
This has placed significant economic pressure on
Australian producers, both fishers and farmers, whose
costs are significantly greater due to the stringent
environmental and food safety standards placed on them
by government. While country of origin labelling has given
consumers greater certainty over the origins of their
barramundi at the retail level, there is no requirement for
the food service and restaurant trades to label the origins of
their Barramundi.
REPTILES
The origin of the reptiles lies about 320–310 million years
ago, in the steaming swamps of the late Carboniferous
period. This was a period of low sea levels and heavy
forestation. Terrestrial life was well established by the
Carboniferous period. Amphibians were the dominant land
vertebrates, of which one branch would eventually evolve
into reptiles, the first fully terrestrial vertebrates. Modern
reptiles inhabit every continent with the exception
of Antarctica.
Approximately 160 of the total 690 reptile species of
Australia are found in Cape York. It is quite challenging to
provide an accurate number, especially as new reptile
species such as smaller skinks are beings discovered quite
frequently.
Some of the reptiles that are synonymous with this
peninsula are:
Saltwater Crocodile
The Saltwater Crocodile (Crocodylus porosus), is also
known as the Estuarine or Indo-Pacific Crocodile. It is
found in suitable habitats from Northern Australia through
Southeast Asia to the eastern coast of India. Commonly
referred to as ‘Salties’, they are the largest living reptile on
the planet and, in the early stages of development, are
considered as a fairly fast-growing species. While adult
males can grow to more than 6m (20ft.) in size, the
females tend be no more than 3 to 3.5m (10-12ft.).
Considered the apex hunter within their environment this
creature is extremely dangerous.
Typically, the Estuarine Crocodiles are incredibly tolerant
to saline conditions and hence inhabit swamps and
coastal estuaries; however, despite their name, it is not
very uncommon for Saltwater Crocodiles to dwell in
brackish waters, freshwater rivers and billabongs.
Extraordinary swimmers they can sometimes swim as far
as 900km (approximately 600mi.) in the quest of a
suitable territory to claim.
In late 2008, early 2009 a handful of wild Saltwater
Crocodiles were verified to be living within the mangrove
and creek systems of Fraser Island, hundreds of
kilometres from, and in much cooler water than, their
normal Queensland range. It was discovered that these
Crocodiles did indeed migrate south to the Island from
Northern Queensland during the warmer wet season and
presumably returned to the north upon the seasonal
temperature drop. Despite the surprise and shock within
the Fraser Island public, this is apparently not new
behaviour and in the distant past wild crocodiles had
been reported occasionally appearing as far south as
Brisbane during the warmer wet season – a 3.5m Crocodile
has taken up residence in the Mary River near Fraser
Island.
The Saltwater Crocodile is an opportunistic predator
capable of taking nearly any animal that enters its territory,
either in the water or on dry land. They are known to attack
humans who enter the Crocodiles' territory. Silent hunters,
they patiently wait for the right opportunity to attack their
prey. They usually drag their target beneath the water
surface, so that the prey drowns before they can feast the
victim.
Female Estuarine Crocodiles lay approximately 50-60 eggs
in an area of muddy vegetation. Once the young ones
hatch, the female gently carries her progenies to the water;
only one percent of the offspring sustain the environment to
become adults. The Saltwater Crocodile is a protected
species and should not be harmed intentionally.
Freshwater Crocodile
The Freshwater Crocodile, or Johnston’s Crocodile
(Crocodylus johnsoni or Crocodylus johnstoni), popularly
known as ‘Freshies’, is relatively smaller than the Salties.
As the name suggests, the Freshwater Crocodile
extensively live in fresh water lakes and streams however
they can tolerate low level salt conditions for short periods.
Freshwater Crocodiles are endemic to Australia.
Unlike their larger saltwater relatives, Freshwater
Crocodiles are not known as man-eaters and rarely cause
fatalities although they will bite in self-defence if cornered.
Freshies can be easily distinguished from its saltwater
counterpart because of its light brown colour and bands on
the body and tail. The Freshwater Crocodile is a relatively
shy reptile that primarily feeds on fish.
More than one quarter of the eggs of Australian Freshwater
Crocodiles hatch well, but more than 90% of these
hatchlings do not survive for more than a year, hatchling
predators such as birds and Goannas being the primary
reason. In recent years the population of Freshwater
Crocodiles has dropped dramatically due to the ingestion of
the invasive Cane Toad. The toad is poisonous to
Freshwater Crocodiles, although not to Saltwater
Crocodiles, and the toad is rampant throughout the
Northern Australian wilderness.
Black Headed Python
Black Headed Python habitat ranges from humid tropical
to semi-arid regions and this species can be found across
much of Northern Australia. Also known as the Shield
Snake (Gr. Aspidites ‘shield bearer’ melanocephalus
‘Black-headed’) it has two large armour cut scales on the
head which is defined from the rest of the body due to its
black colouring. It is this stunning colouring and its docile
nature that makes it a popular choice for collectors.
The typical length of a Black Headed Python may vary
from 1.5-2.5m. Black Headed Pythons are terrestrial and
are often found in amongst rocks and loose debris. If
disturbed, they will hiss loudly, but are unlikely to bite
unless hunting prey. They will sometimes strike with a
closed mouth, but generally can be handled easily. They
are strong swimmers, but are almost never found inside
water. They are non-venomous.
These snakes are mentioned in, or play a central role in,
the stories of the Indigenous Dreamtime traditions.
Amethystine Python
The Amethystine or Scrub Python is Australia’s largest
python. Specimens have reportedly been measured at
more than 8.5m (28ft.) in total length, but this is
exceptional, as 5m (16ft.) specimens are already
considered large. Morelia amethistina as it is properly
known is a non-venomous constrictor species of snake
that is also found in Indonesia and Papua New Guinea.
The name of this snake is derived from the beautiful blue
colour reflecting off the scales when seen in full sunlight.
Spending most of their time high in the rainforest canopies
their diet generally consists of birds, fruit
bats, rats, possums, and other small animals however
larger specimens will catch and eat wallabies, waiting
by creek and river banks for prey seeking drinking water.
The body is relatively slim, unlike those of many other large
members of the Python family. With a habitat that ranges
from the coastal plains around Cairns, onto the Atherton
Tablelands and up to the tip of Cape York this is truly
magnificent species of snake.
AMPHIBIANS
These animals' ancestors were the first to venture out from
the water and adapt to life on land. Amphibian larvae are
often aquatic and go through a complex metamorphosis
process as they grow to adulthood. They have moist skin
and do not have scales, feathers or hair. Amphibians and
frogs in particular, make up a large proportion of the Cape
York vertebrate species. While unseen throughout the day
dusk bring the frogs out of hiding, particularly around the
creeks and waterholes. Cape York is also home to the
world’s largest frog.
White Lipped Green Tree Frog
The White Lipped Green Tree Frog is the world’s largest
tree frog; no wonder it is also known as the Giant Tree
Frog. The dorsal surface of the entire body, including parts
such as the head, limbs and the fingers are lime-green or
bronze in colour with mature adults being up to 110mm
(5.5in.) in body length not counting the length of the rear
legs. There is a white streak on the entire lower lip,
bestowing the species with its popular name. The lower
surface of the body is either light pink or white in colour.
The half-webbed fingers and fully webbed fingers help it to
climb well.
The White Lipped Tree Frog changes its colour at will and
can assume colours such as olive-green, olive-brown or
deep brown, especially at night.
In Australia, this species is confined to Cape York and
extended southern localities such as Ingham and
Townsville. It is also wide-spread in the New Guinea
region.
The Male call of this species is distinguished as a double
note resembling that of a large barking dog. During the
breeding season females can lay up to 1,000 eggs in
clusters of 300-800 in aquatic habitats. Its development is
complete in less than 30 days however females do not
reproduce until 2 to 3 years of age.
MAMMALS
With over 30 species of bats and flying foxes, kangaroos
and agile wallabies, dingoes, quolls, bandicoots and
possums, mammals make up a wide range of the wildlife
of Cape York. Species such as the Bennett’s Tree
Kangaroo, Lumholtz Tree Kangaroo and Spotted
Couscous are not only rare but also endemic to the Cape
York Region.
Spotted Cuscus
It is an arboreal species that is native to Cape York
Peninsula, islands of Ambonia and New Guinea. It lives
in habitats such as rainforests, mangroves and eucalypt
forests. It is nearly the size of a huge cat.
Males are bestowed with a whitish coat that is adorned
with brown spots, and females are white or grey with no
spots; however, the quality, colour and texture might vary
with the age and sex of the creature.
It has a frizzy, prehensile tail which is furry on the top
side of the tail; the tail’s lower half is covered with rough
scales which allow it to clasp branches efficiently.
It is an extremely shy and timid creature that prefers to
hunt and eat at night, thus limiting its appearance during
the day. Like its distant relative, the Sloth, it is an animal
that uses minimal amounts of energy limiting the
requirements for survival. Nest sites can be found in tree
hollows, among rocks and underneath tree roots. The
presence of the creature can be assumed because of its
pungent odour. Males are likely to snarl, bark or make a
hissing noise if they suspect the presence of another
male or threat in their territory. They can be quite hostile
and aggressive if challenged.
Male Spotted Cuscus tends to mate year round with
multiple partners.
The gestation period of this creature is less than two
weeks, thirteen days to be precise. It has a pouch period of
approximately six to seven months. It gives birth to up to
three offspring at a time. The average life span of this
species is eleven years.
Tree Kangaroo
Found in both New Guinea and Cape York the Tree
Kangaroo is the only macropod adapted to live in the
rainforest canopy. There are 14 species of Tree Kangaroo
with significant variations in sizes and colours. Sizes of
head and body length can vary from 41 to 77cm (16 to
30in.), a tail length of 40 to 87cms (16 to 34in.), and a
weight of up to 14.5kg (32lb.). Females are smaller than
males. Most Tree Kangaroos are considered
threatened due to hunting (New Guinea) and habitat loss.
Quite slow and clumsy on the ground, in the trees they are
an exceptionally agile animal, as they have specially
adapted pads on their feet that allow it to move and climb
swiftly. Wrapping the forelimbs around a tree or branch they
use their powerful back legs to propel themselves.
Branches can also be held firmly by their elongated tails. It
is their ability to negotiate their way through the trees that
makes the Tree Kangaroo exceptional. Downward jumps of
up to 9m from tree to tree are not unusual and they are able
to leap from the trees to the ground from heights of nearly
20m without injury.
It is a nocturnal animal that mostly feeds on leaves and
fruits. Generally they are solitary animals, but can
sometimes feed in groups as well. Its reproductive cycle is
similar to that of normal kangaroos, i.e. it gives birth to one
offspring and rears it in its pouch.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Content Compiled & Written by:
Mark Essenhigh & Sangeeta Thomas
Format and Design by:
Jody Essenhigh
Photography by:
Jody and Mark Essenhigh
Previous guests – with thanks
Geoff Lillis, Sarah Bullen, Mr & Mrs Innes
Tony Frankland (Tour Guide)
Some photos have been sourced from the Net – again
with thanks
In Closing
I hope that the information contained has helped to give
you an idea of, not just the importance of the environment
of Cape York but, the beauty and diversity of this
incredible destination. The Cape is not just about the
scenery - the people that live here are an integral part of
what makes it so special. Indigenous communities, whom
while having the trappings of the modern world, still live
by cultural values that trace their beginnings to the dawn
of time. Graziers, who accept that with their tenure
comes a responsibility to care and maintain the land in its
natural state. And of course the visitors who venture into
this area with a sense of adventure and awe at
undertaking one of Australia’s last great journeys.
Regards, Mark