Ocean Waves

Ocean storm –”sea”

Ship in a Storm

Rogue Wave

“Beach”

Wave Characteristics

• Wave length (L)

• Wave height (H)

• Wave period (T)

• Wave speed: C = L/T

Global Wind Speed Global Wave Height

Do you see a correlation, a connection?

Wind is the main source of most wavesStronger winds = bigger wavesWhen might you expect to see some really big waves?

Breakers

Wave Transformation

Wave Transformation1. Waves break on the shore because they run out of

room and all of their energy crashes incrashes in.

“Big Wave”2. Most ocean waves are caused by windwind.Your Turn…..answer the questions in your notes

Types of Breakers

Spilling waves break when the shoreline slope is gentle

Plunging waves break when the shoreline slope is moderate

Surging Waves break when the shoreline slope is steep

3. The type of breaker (wave) depends on the slope of the shoreline.

Spillers Crashing wave where there is a gentle slope.

PlungersCrashing wave where there is a moderate slope.

Surging BreakersCrashing wave where there is a very steep slope.

4. Coastal Terminology

Accretion: A gradual deposition by water of mud, sand to form dry land.

Erosion: Natural action of waves and current over a long period of time, sand is moved/transported.

Avulsion: A sudden & rapid change in shoreline

Coastline FeaturesErosion Accretion

How are they different?

5. Wave action continuously changes the shape of the shoreline

6. A Long shore current hits the shore at an angle and sand is moved.

This is why the water carries you up or down the shoreline when you are at the beach.

Longshore Currents

Longshore current

Summer & Winter Profile

Changing Beach Profiles

Let’s compare and contrast…

Why does the East Coast and West Coast have different sized waves?

Coastal Development

Storm Generated Waves

Wave Erosion

Coastal Features

Coastal Features

Sea Arch

Sea Stacks

Sand Dunes

Tidal BulgesHow does the moon stay in Earth’s orbit?How does the gravitational pull affect our ocean tides?

How many high tides are on Earth at any time? How many low tides?

Neap Tide

Spring Tide

Spring & Neap Tides