ocean motion notes - mrs. smit's science...
TRANSCRIPT
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Ocean Motion Notes
Chapter 13 & 14
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What is a Wave?
• Wave: movement of energythrough a body of water
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How are Waves Caused?
• Caused mostly by wind
–Wind blowing on the water transmits energy to the water
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Size of Wave
–Depends on the strength of the wind
–Depends on the length of time wind blows
–Depends on the distanceover which wind blows
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Wave Energy
–Energy moves towardthe shore but waterdoes not
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Water Motion
–Surface
•Circular motion
–Deep
•Smaller circles
–Very deep
•No motion (Waves)
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Characteristics of Waves
• Wavelength: horizontal distance between crests
–Long wavelength (rolling)
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Classification of Waves
–Short wavelength (choppy)
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Characteristic of Waves
• Crest: the highest point of the wave
• Trough: the lowest point of the wave
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Characteristic of Waves
• Wave Height: the vertical distance from the crest to the trough
• Frequency: the number of waves that pass a point in a certain amount of time.
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Wave Action
• How waves change near the shore
• Breakers: White capped waves that crash onto shore
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Wave Action
–Friction between ocean floor and water causes wave to slow down.
•Speed decreases, shapechanges
–Wave height increases
–Wave length decreases
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Wave Action
–Surf: Wave breaks onto the shore
–Undertow: Water rushesback to the ocean
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Tsunamis
• Tsunamis: Caused by earthquakebeneath (under) the ocean floor
• In deep water: No problem– Wave length 200 km
– Wave height less than 1 meter
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Tsunami• Near shore…
HUGE Problem!–Friction causes water to “pile up”
–Wave height 20 meters (5 stories)
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How waves affect the shore
• Long shore drift: Water washes sand straight down the beach
–Sand
creates
a sandbar
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How waves affect the shore
• Rip Currents: Water breaksthrough sand bar
–Water flows back to the ocean floor
•Very dangerous to swimmers
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Waves and beach erosion
• Waves shape a beach by eroding the shore in some places and building up in others
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Waves and beach erosion
• Barrier Beaches: Natural land form protects the shore line
–Runs parallel to the beach
•Waves strike barrier beach instead of shore line
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Waves and beach erosion
• Sand Dunes: Wind blown sand makes beach more stable
–Plants help keep sand in place
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Waves and beach erosion
• Groins: man-made wall of rockor concrete
–Sand build up
against the wall
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Tides
• Daily riseand fall of the Earth’s ocean
• Caused by Gravity
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Tides
–Spring Tide Neap Tide
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Ocean Water Chemistry
• The Salty Ocean
• Salinity: How salty the ocean is
–The amount of dissolved salt in the water
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Ocean Water Chemistry
•35 grams of salt in 1 kilogram of water
Water
96.5%
Dissolved Salts 3.5%
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Ocean Water Chemistry
•NaCl (Sodium Chloride) most abundant salt in the ocean
–NaCl Breaksdown into Na ions and Cl ions
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Variations in Salinity
–Lower near the surface of the ocean
–Lower near the mouth of large rivers
–Evaporation increases salinity (Ex. Dead sea)
–Higher near the poles
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Effects of Salinity
–Ocean water does not freeze easily
–Seawater is more dense so it has greater buoyancy
•things float
better in it
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Other Ocean Properties
• Temperature
–Cold water is more dense so it sinks
–Warm water rises to the surface
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Other Ocean Properties
• Gases
–CO2 and O2
•CO2 is more abundantthan O2
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Other Ocean Properties• Changes with
Depth
–Decreasing Temperature
•As you go down (descend) temperature decreases
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Changes with Depth
•Three zones
–Surface Zone (Warmest)
–Transition Zone
–Deep Zone
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Changes with Depth–Increasing Pressure
•As you go down in the ocean, pressure increasescontinuously
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Changes with Depth
• Submersible- underwatervehicle built to resist pressure
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The Ocean Floor
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The Ocean Floor
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Currents and Climate
Surface Currents
• Affects water to a depth of several hundred meters
• Driven mainly by Wind
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Currents & Climate
• Coriolis Effect: Since the earth is round, the wind curves–Northern Hemisphere:
Curve to the right
–Southern Hemisphere:
Curve to the left
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Currents & Climate
• Gulf Stream: Largest most powerful current
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Effects on Climate
• Warm water from the equator to the poles
• Cold water from the poles goes toward the equator
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Effects on Climate
–Surface current warms or cools the air above it
–Influences the climate of the land near the coast
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Effects on Climate
• El Nino: Causes shifts in the weather patterns
–Can cause flooding
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Deep Currents
• Deep currents move and mixwater around the world.
• Deep currents carry coldwater from the poles toward the equator
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Deep Currents
–Salinity increases near the poles
•Increased Salinity Increased Density
–Cold water moves along the ocean floor
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Deep Currents
• Surface currents carry warmwater toward the poles.
• Affected by Coriolis Effect
–Currents curve around the world
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Upwelling
• Upwelling: the movement of cold water upward from the deep ocean
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Upwelling
• As winds blow away the warm surface water, cold water rises to replace it.
• Brings microorganisms and nutrients back to the surface
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Conservation of Waterin theworld
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WaterConservation in the world
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Water Conservation at Home
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