newsletter or silica in personal care issue 1| 2013 · stands out from the lacquer layer, there -...

Newsletter for silica in personal care Issue 1 | 2013

Beauty BulletinTopicAnother newsletter?ACEMATT® TS 100 – a high performance matting agent

Matt nail polish formulations with ACEMATT® TS 100

Crackle nail polish formulations with ACEMATT® TS 100

in-cosmetics in Paris on April 16 – 18, booth D81

Manufactures of personal care products have thousands of different raw mate-rials to choose from. New raw materi-als are constantly being developed that offer new and unique properties for the cosmetics of today and tomorrow. AEROSIL® fumed silica and SIPERNAT® precipitated silica have been used in personal care and cosmetic products for many years and therefore might be con-sidered as “traditional” ingredients that, although very useful and of high quality, don’t have much new to offer. But is it really so? We at Evonik strongly believe that AEROSIL® and SIPERNAT® products enable new and exciting formulation

opportunities. Innovations don’t always have to be the result of new products, but the reimagining of existing ones. This newsletter is to inform personal care formulators and other interested people of novel concepts and new devel-opments related to the use of silica in cosmetic formulations.

If you do not focus on new product formulation yourself, please feel free to distribute this newsletter on to your R&D colleagues or whoever might be interested in your organization.

Introduction

ACEMATT® TS 100 – Adding versatility to your nail polish formulations Only a small stroke of nail polish is need-ed to create a new personal expression. As this can be done in a very affordable way, nail polishes have gained a strong popularity in current beauty and fash-ion styles. Formulators have created nail polishes in multiple colors to fit to the latest fashion trends and the moods of the consumer. But, what if a simple color change is not enough to get the atten-tion that your nail polish formulations deserve?

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Beauty Bulletin | Issue 1 | 13

ACEMATT® TS 100, a silica matting agent, may open new and exciting ways to create nail polish formulations that stand out from the crowd. This product will allow the formulator to add unique characteristics and dimensions to a for-mulation without relying on traditional methods such as pigment selection. In this newsletter we want to introduce you to this new product and provide insight on how ACEMATT® TS 100 can be used to formulate nail polishes with a matt or crackle finish.

Figure 1 Schematic representation of the mechanism of matting agents

ACEMATT® TS 100 is a unique matting agent produced by flame hydrolysis. Due to its specific structure and particle size, it is able to produce matt surfaces with low levels of addition. In traditional nail polish formulations, the even surface of the coating leads the light to be reflect-ed directly off the surface into the eyes. This direct reflection leads the eye to perceive the surface as glossy. When a matting agent is added to a system, the surface of the coating become rough, resulting in the amount of light that is

directly reflected reduced. The overall intensity or disruption of the ref lec-tion depends on the degree of sur-face-roughness. This alteration of the surface causes the eye to perceive the finish to be matted as opposed to glossy. ACEMATT® TS 100 (INCI name: Silica) is characterized by a very high matting efficiency for these types of formula-tions.

When painting the nails, evapo- ration of the solvents in the lacquer causes the shrinkage of the coating. ACEMATT® TS 100, with an average particle size of approximately 9.5 µm, stands out from the lacquer layer, there-by forming a micro-rough surface after drying. (see fig. 1). This micro-rough surface causes enough surface rough-ness to alter the light scattering of the coating but not the feel of the coating on the nail. By incorporating ACEMATT® TS 100, a matted nail pol-ish can be created while keeping the smooth finish on the nail.

Matt nail polish formulations with ACEMATT® TS 100 Traditionally, gloss and color have been the two predominant parameters in a nail polish. Ultra glossy nail polishes have become quite common and famil-iar in nail decoration. Matt nail polish instantly makes your nails stand out from others due to their exceptionally unique and stylish look. Nail polishes with a matt effect are easily formulated using EVONIK Industries’ ACEMATT® TS 100. Due to its excellent matting behavior and good dispersibility, only a small concentration of ACEMATT® TS 100 is required to see these benefits. ACEMATT® TS 100 can be easily incor-porated into any traditional nail polish formulation with only very limited re-formulation work. Figure 2

Matt nail finish created with ACEMATT® TS 100

As demonstrated in figure 2, ACEMATT® TS 100 is an excellent matting agent which gives a smooth and silky matt film on the nails.

wet coating film shrinkage dueto the solventevaporation

dry coating

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Figure 3 Crackle nail polish using ACEMATT® TS 100

Figure 4 Examples of crackle nail polishes in different colors using increasing concentrations of ACEMATT® TS 100 in the crackle coat

Crackle nail polish formulations with ACEMATT® TS 100 For the even more daring consumers, shatter or crackle nail polishes recently have surfaced as another fashion trend. These polishes give interesting two col-ored patterns on the nails which catches everybody’s eyes. Crackle nail polishes come in an eclectic range of different colors and shades to give versatility in the final style. To create this nail art three different coats are necessary: a base coat, a crackle coat and final top coat. The base coat and crackle coat are usually in contrasting colors. The base coat can be dark and crackle coat light or vice versa. The crackle coat can also contain glitter particles or pearlescent pigments for further flexibility.

This technique is an inexpensive form of nail art. Crackle nail polish can be applied simply by the customer with-out added visits to nail salons, which is a distinct difference to other elaborate nail art techniques and opens these products to a wider part of the market.

Evonik’s ACEMATT® TS 100 is used in the base coat as well as crackle coat. It is advised to add up to 2 wt. % mat-ting agent to the base coat formulation and 4 – 7 wt.% in the formulation of the crackle coat.

The formulator of nail polish can easily design the crackle pattern by modifying the ACEMATT® TS 100 concentration in the crackle coat formulation. (see Figure 4). By adding a small amount of

Phase Ingredients INCI name % w/w

1 Nail polish base Butyl Acetate; Ethyl Acetate, Nitrocellulose, Isopropyl Alcohol

94.00

AEROSIL® R 972 1 Silica Dimethyl Silylate 2.00

2 ACEMATT® TS 100 1 Silica 2.00

3 Pigment Pre-dispersed pigments 2.00

Total 100.00

1 Evonik Industries AG, Business Line Silica

Matt Nail Polish

ACEMATT® TS 100 fine lined crackles are produced. By incorporating a larger concentration of ACEMATT® TS 100, the crackles become more pronounced, leading to a more eye-catching pattern.

• Add AEROSIL® R 972 to the nail polish base and disperse with dissolver for at least 15 minutes.

• Add ACEMATT® TS 100 to Phase 1 and disperse with moderate speed for 10 minutes.

• Add pre-dispersed pigments and stir until homogeneous mixture is obtained.

Note:The benefit of AEROSIL® R 972 is to improve the suspension stability of the nail polish formulation.

3 wt. % 5 wt. % 7 wt. %

This information and any recommendations, technical or otherwise, are presented in good faith and believed to be correct as of the date prepared. Recipients of this information and recommendations must make their own determination as to its suitability for their purposes. In no event shall Evonik assume liability for damages or losses of any kind or nature that result from the use of or reliance upon this information and recommendations. EVONIK EXPRESSLY DISCLAIMS ANY REPRESENTATIONS AND WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, WHETHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, AS TO THE ACCURACY, COMPLETENESS, NON-INFRINGEMENT,MERCHANTABILITY AND/OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE (EVEN IF EVONIK IS AWARE OF SUCH PURPOSE) WITH RESPECT TO ANY INFORMATION AND RECOM-MENDATIONS PROVIDED. Reference to any trade names used by other companies is neither a recommendation nor an endorsement of the corresponding product, and does not imply that similar products could not be used. Evonik reserves the right to make any changes to the information and/or recommendations at any time, without prior or subsequent notice.

AEROSIL® and ACEMATT® are registered trademarks of Evonik Industries or its subsidiaries.

Evonik Industries AGBusiness Line SilicaRodenbacher Chaussee 4 63457 HanauGermany phone +49 6181 59-12532 [email protected]

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Crackle Nail Polish System



93.00

2 AEROSIL® R 972 1 Silica Dimethyl Silylate 2.00


4 Pigment Pre- dispersed pigments 3.00

Total 100.00


Base Coat



15.00

Ethyl Acetate Ethyl Acetate 53.00


3 Isopropyl Alcohol Isopropyl Alcohol 25.00

4 Pigment Pre- dispersed pigments 2.00

Total 100.00


Crackle Coat

Besides the formulation materials, the final look is also influenced by the thick-ness of the film applied to the nail. The crackling is an extremely random and unpredictable process which leads to a unique finish on each individual nail. The thinner the crackle coat is applied, the smaller the cracks will be. A thicker crackle coat will result in more visible

cracks. For best results, it is neces-sary for the base coat to completely dry before the crackle coat is applied. After a thick coat of the crackle polish has been applied and dried, it produces a matt appearance but tends to be brittle. In order to preserve the polish and pre-vent chipping, it is advisable to finish the decoration with a protective top coat.

• Add AEROSIL® R 972 to the nail polish base and disperse with dissolver for at least 15 minutes.

• Add ACEMATT® TS 100 to Phase 1 and disperse with moderate speed for 10 minutes.

• Add pre-dispersed pigments and stir until homogeneous mixture is obtained.

• Add ethyl acetate to the nail polish base.

• Add ACEMATT® TS 100, wet while stirring with moderate speed.

• Add isopropyl alcohol and predispersed pigments and homogenize with low speed for at least 15 minutes.

Note:The concentration of ACEMATT® TS 100 can be varied from 4 – 7 wt. % by altering the concentration of ethyl acetate.

newsletter or silica in personal care issue 1| 2013 · stands out from the lacquer layer, there -...

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